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Restoration general?

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Thread replies: 22
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--- Discuss and share restoration technique documentation and anecdotes? ---

I've recently bought a Kenner brand, '84 Ecto-1, hoping to restore it's colors through the Peroxide method and baking soda scrub for the blue tinted plastic windows.

Anyone tried either of these methods before and how long their effect last?
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>>6066852
I just used white paint, because England is shitty and I cannot be fucked to fart around finding all the stuff to do it.

Its a display princess, so its held up fine enough.

Tip though, the plastic body is very fucking thing and very fucking wobbly. the rear "lights" act as a clip, so you have to lift and push it back while swearing.
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>>6066969
I'm burger land
What makes U.K. Hard to get that stuff?
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>>6066852
I've tried the hydrogen peroxide on parts of an old g1 jetfire. The result was slight but noticeable. Can't really say how long it lasts since I sold him off a while ago.

To get the best results, have the dish with the parts and peroxide in direct sunlight. also if you can get your hands on it, finding stronger peroxide is better, not the over the counter drugstore stuff.
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I used the peroxide + sunlight technique on a bunch of white Lego bricks. It worked very well, but since you're soaking it, the stickers will come off. You'll also want to disassemble the car so it doesn't affect the metal parts.

The reason why old white plastic turns yellow is because the flame-retardant chemical (bromine) added to the plastic starts to turn brown as it breaks down. The peroxide treatment "resets" the bromine on the outer surface, but if you wait a few years it will start to yellow again as the bromine once again breaks down.
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>>6067079
Big Brother mentality on almost every aspect in life, including chemicals for home use that could be used on figures. There's also importation laws and taxes. Many UK modders and customizers have commented on how hard it is to get certain things that Americans take for granted.
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>>6067195
You can't get peroxide and baking soda? God damn, that's a bitch-and-a-half.
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>>6067220
You can, but you tend to have to find it on ebay and the shite.

Example, I wanted some iodine. I could only get it on ebay (as no pharmacy carrys it because to "dangerous", same with rubbing alcohol). Even then I could only find it in low low concentrations.

But I can walk into Shitty Store X and buy a can of spray paint and be done with it.
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>>6066852
just cum on it
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>>6067416
Does the goverment want you to die from infected wounds?
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>>6066852
I have some experience with H202. For my items I used cream peroxide that is used toe bleach hair.

I deyellowed items of Masters of the Universe, vintage Star Wars and Dino Riders.

The results were quiet good (pic related). The downside is, that it doesn´t last too long. In my case the yellowing came back after a year.

Not as bad as before but it was noticably. The items were stored in my collection room in the cellar. The temperature is constant at approximately 12 degrees celsius and the items aren´t exposed to direct sunlight.

Also it does not work with all kinds of plastic. I got bad results on grey Dino Raiders parts.
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>>6078496
Here is another set of Star Wars figures i deyellowed.
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makes me appreciate mine that is white
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>>6078496
>>6078499

That's pretty baller anon, did you use the cream on the colored/brown parts as well?

I have a Winston figure that could use some restoration using H202 as well, but I haven't found any documentation stating whether h202 messes up the colors or not
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>>6066852
Just sun fading the body might be your best bet if the retrobrite or peroxide doesn't do it.

I've tried both on some yellowed ponies. Sometimes, just a scrub with the acne cream is all it takes others are more stubborn. I have a Starshine I've turned into a guinea pig because she absolutely will not fucking de-yellow.

I did dig some family photo albums to check, she was originally white. But I got to thinking. The retrobrite solution is for getting that shitty bromide fire retardant out of computer parts, which might not be the same process that discolors toys. Sun fading seems to be the safest bet as long as you cover up stickers, etc downside it takes for fucking ever.

I'm starting to consider going to a tanning salon with a bag of toys to see if they'll let me use a bed to nuke those fuckers back to presentable shape. UV is what makes sun fading work, it shouldn't give a shit where it's coming from.
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>>6079548
UV light hurts the plastic though
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>>6079548
Have you tried acetone on the not-painted parts? Sometimes old vinyl grows a scuzzy coating of leached plasticizer, human grease, and dirt.
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>>6079527
I have been using pretty much the same product as in the video here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU7vXMezW_I

I used it on yellowed parts regardless of the original color. For example the Nikto and Chief Chirpa figure (wich turned out pretty good).

It also worked well on the blue body of a vintage Skeletor figure.

It even worked on the torso of my vintage Yak Face (without harming the other parts).

But it can do harm and its hard to predict. Pic related is a part of my childhood Dino Raiders T-Rex. It has some light grey bloom.

It also has difficulty to deyellow transparent plastic. I suspect that the process works on the surface. The yellowing starts to get better but I suspect you can still see yellowing which is located deeper in the plastic.
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>>6079548
Pic related is a test I made with a headless Skeletor figure. It turned out well. I deyellowed another Skeletor afterwads with a very good result.
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>>6079527
here is another pic of my setup. All parts in the pic turned out pretty good. Except for the transparent parts as stated before (they got better but not really satisfying).

Sidenote: the Wampa had yellowed and the glue holding the parts together also yellowed seperately. The yellowed Wampa parts and the yellowed glue came out perfect.
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>>6079648
Oh yeah. The G1 pony term for that is smooze. Nothing seems to work on it quite as good as getting a stiff brush, some boiling water and scrubbing the absolute FUCK out of it. A lot of smooze is just the result of dirt getting in the pores of the vinyl over 30 years.

Acetone's your friend for getting manky glue off though, if you can't get ahold of that jasco stuff. Jasco's borderline sorcery, somehow, it doesn't bother the paint on them while dissolving the everloving fuck out of the adhesives.

Wouldn't recommend it for anything with actual stickers for obvious reason though.

Anyone got any ideas on getting rust stains off vinyl?
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>>6080019
>It also has difficulty to deyellow transparent plastic. I suspect that the process works on the surface. The yellowing starts to get better but I suspect you can still see yellowing which is located deeper in the plastic.

You're correct. It just reactivates the bromine flame retardant that the hydrogen peroxide can physically react with.
Thread posts: 22
Thread images: 6


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