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Scale Model General

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Thread replies: 356
Thread images: 89

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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) model kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/

Have a question about a kit? Check out:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/

Previous Thread:
>>6035862
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>>6060969
Don't be an idiot like myself. Make sure to check the chassis for warpage before attaching anything to it.
Step 10: Don't add B18 yet.
Step 11-13: Don't add the hull or pedals yet. It will be easier to finish the suspension first and then add the rest. Make sure to add B18 before you attach the hull to the chassis. You may also want to add C22 to C25 to the hull before attaching it to the chassis as this will help with alignment.
>>
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>>6062656
The suspension was a pain in the ass to assemble. I had to bend out the attachment points on the wheels, A29 and A30, in order for A22 to span the length.
>>
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Would love to see Bronco expand their Pz 35(t) line and make a TACAM R2.
>>
Im glad fichtenfoo is listed in the links. I love that guy
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Bump
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>this is upvoted on reddit
>>
>>6063316
3-d-printed?
>>
>>6063316
M4A3E8 with Zimmerit whats wrong.......
I admit it looks shit but its still a "Plastic"Model
>>
>>6063316
the infamous 155mm armed sherman
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Finished my Amatsukaze and gave it a sloppy base made from cheap modelling clay.
>>6063316
Isn't that just a toy?
>>
>>6063325
Honestly it looks like a gold start
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>>6062664
Really AFV Club? How do you fuck up so badly? The cutout should be where the stop is...
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First ma.K. Thoughts?
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Nearly done with the 1/700 scharn, just gotta add rigging and wave effects.
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>>6064628
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>>6064637
>>
>>6064481
Yeah, not fucking with this right now. The fit of the hull, hull panels, and chassis is awful. It's going back in the box.
>>
Does anyone here has photo or knowledge where modern russian tank crew store extra tracks
>>
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>>6064481
>ayyyyyyy
It's a shame, maybe you could do a burned out/blown out chasis as the underside it's pretty detailed
>>6064643
Overall the scene and model looks good, but it really needs rails and when you do the final shots do them closer and that stuff as it's hard to see any detail. Are you going to do the waves with gel or cotton?
>>6064982
I can't say that this applies to 100% of the modern t-xx series but I've always seen it in pic related. And in the armata t-14 some are in the turret bustle but that's it.
If you mean afrika korps style with some track segment over the hull and/or turret I've only seen it twice (I'm trying to find one of the pics but this is a mess) one had small (like 4-5 links) bits on the rear turret and the other has a more lengthy chunk of a track on top of the motor bay. But in both images it looks more like "lets leave it here while we work/get drunk" than for armor or repairs done by the crew on the go.
I suppose that if the track gets thrown it's ""easy"" to repair and you might only need to substitute one or two broken links at most, but if it gets blown out then the wheels and other stuff gets too damaged to get repaired by only the crew I suppose.
In mine I'm going to leave a spare wheel in the bustle but that's it (and neither I have enough bits of track to make a worthy chunk)
>>
>>6064622
Incredible
>>
Bought this Da Vinci helicopter kit. It's so awesome. Now Im looking to get some others from this series. The Ornithopter is already on my list. Anyone recommend some good ones?
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>>6065226
From what i read they all of the Italeri ones are pretty good quality wise (surprisingly enough). I guess its just personal preference and price you have to consider.

If i had to choose one of them, i would go for the mechanical lion because i think it looks interesting.
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Its such a shame all this detail will be covered up
>>
>>6065338
You can always make cutouts in the hull.
>>
>>6065338
Why not use tiny bluetack's to stick the parts together therefore you can detach and reattach whenever you want
>>
>>6065378
I might do that with the top. Im thinking a vignette with a mechanic working on the engine
>>
>>6065378
Bluetack will stain paint and the amount you would have to use would be visible and tacky. The best way would to drill holes in the parts and add brass pins. This way would not be visible and the parts would be aligned correctly.
>>
>>6065405
But brass pins gonna make it ugly and increases chances of screwing up Bluetack may arguably tack off some paint but at small sizes around few mm would do perfect and still stick while be able to attach and detach wit ease and if you are so worried about the paint tacking off spray a layer of coat to protect the paint .Worked for me tho
>>
Anyone interested in any guides/tutorials of anything other than painting and weathering?
>>
>>6065439
why? do you have something to share?
>>
>>6065487
No, but if anyone is interested in one I might be able to make one.
>>
>>6065521
Its very unlikely someone is interested those two things as instructions leading to those two parts are given as Washes chipping filters are all in the weathering part
>>
>>6065439
>>6065487
>>6065521
I'm confused. Do you have information to share or not? What would the tutorial be about?
>>
>>6065231
Do you know if there is any difference between the Italeri kits and the Korean ones?
>>
>>6065641
check scalemates.com, search for "da vinci" and then read the reviews for the specific kits.
>>
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>>6065130
Weathering the fuel drums. I kinda liked them more "new and shinny" now that they look rugged as fuck, as a color contrast you know, but they would look too out of place too
>>6065338
You could use magnets, if you find a way to secure and hide them. Or just leave the top hull/turret roof as big separated pieces that sit well in place
>>
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>>6065705
Pic related is what I mean and what everyone does, the tiger is pretty easy but yours is too if you make all the upper part one
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>>6065583
Learn English, Pablo. He's asking if anyone wants a tutorial made of a certain subject.
>>
>>6065533
>other than painting and weathering
>>
>>6065799
Yes, but he didn't said what specific knowledge he has.
>>
>>6065802
Probably has knowledge on everything, hence why he said anything.
>>
>>6065799
>>6065808
But of what? How to put a kit together? I don't know what tips I'd need on something other than paint or weathering
>>
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>>6065644
>scalemates.com

Nice site.
Aside from a slight difference in colors and a sharp dip in price I see no difference between the two versions.
For some reason the Korean Academy version is cheaper here, despite it being import.
It cant have been the translation costs, because these kits require only simple instructions.
>>
>>6065877
License cost
>>
>>6065705
The red/green looks great. What paints?

The gold/brass looks bad though
>>
>>6065799
But then he says he has nothing to share. Is it a tutorial on the actual construction? Theres a manual included with every model
>>
>>6065885
That's not brass
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>>6065888
Are you literally retarded?
>>
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>>6065885
The red is a.mig 014 rotbraun, the green is a.mig 083 zashchitniy zeleno (post ww2 Russian green) and the cream part is a.mig 017 cremeweiss. All on top of a old rust and new rust base with chipping fluid. As >>6065899 said is not brass (are there even drums like that made of brass?) but the cremeweiss with fuel stains which are orange and shiny and maybe gave you that impression. Pic related is how it looks like "dry" and finished
>>
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Well. The gaps are kinda wide. It'd be nice to have the top removable but looks like Im going to have to do some puttying
>>
>>6065985
This is literally worse than Chinese bootleg tier
>>
>>6066000
>what is builder error
>>
>>6065985
sweet jesus
>>
>>6065338
>>6065985
well at least you wont have to worry about the details being hidden anymore.
>>
>>6066037
Kek
>>
>>6066000
>>6066008
>>6066037
>>6066033
Guys calm down its just resting on the top. Once its glued in those gaps will be filled.
>>
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I'm about to start on this guy. Got it at a thrift store for ten bucks. Anyway I can find the age of it? The original mold was done in 1985 and the decals say 92 on them. It's at least from 92 because the decals are old and dried out and the plastic is not the same quality as current Tamiya kits.
>>
>>6066073
Resize your images you fucking mongaloid.
>>
>>6066063
They shouldn't be there in the first place...
>>
>>6066073
Read the OP.
>>
>>6066086
sorry, I'll remember next time.
>>6066090
I did and I looked through scale mates, I was just curious if I could find the date of THIS exact kit because it has different dates on it.
>>
>>6066095
>I did and I looked through scale mates
Then you would know the date of the kit.
>>
>>6066096
There are TWO dates listed in this kit.
>>
>>6066073
I wish I found good shit at thrift stores
>>
>>6066100
Try carbon dating it.
>>
>>6066104
Jesus we got a lot of comedians today
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>>6066153
And a lot of retards.
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>>6066194
Who's being retarded?
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>>6066210
Me
>>
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Dragon 1:35 Pz.Kpfw.III Ausf.F

Pz III is so easy to build; no leaf springs to clean up. There is one fit problem in all of Dragon's Pz IIIs and that is the idler. There is a large gap between the idler cover and the rear plate. I did an initial fill with CA and will putty over top of that.
>>
So I just finished the AFV club Churchill gun carrier and I was just wondering if all AFV club models are that shit because Jesus Christ that thing was suicide inducing
>>
>>6066324
You mean poorly molded and poorly fitting? Then yes. Though, I had no issues with either of my Churchills.
>>
>>6066324
Are you that guy who decided against all advice to build that model as your first foray into model building because the Churchill gun carrier "looked cool?"

Because if so, serves you right faggot.
>>
>>6066378
Yeh that's me and I agree with you
>>
>>6066324
Post pics
>>
>>6066431
No because I'll get bullied if I do
>>
>>6066446
oh for fucks sake just post it. Or post it on reddit, those faggots upvote everything.
>>
Stay in your own thread, nazi cock worshipping faggots.
>>6066309
>>
>>6066458
?
>>
>>6066324
Try some cheaper, old Tamiya kits like their Panzer III, Stug III, or StuG IV. All great kits, are cheap and fit together like a dream.

Also, don't respond to troll bait please, we don't need another flamewar.
>>
>>6066472
Cheers man, I'll probably do some research on shit before I buy it in future but I'll definitely have a look at the kits you suggested
>>
>>6066477
Tamiya kits in general are probably some of the best engineered kits on the market, even their older kits are highly regarded. They aren't as detailed as other kits though, and are a lot simpler to put together, but overall they have some of the best tooling / molding in the business, and they know how to engineer a kit perfectly.

With that said, their newer kits are definitely on the expensive side, but they are quality kits as well for the most part. The reason I love Tamiya so much is because there's never any real fuss when you're building them, no gaps to fill, ill-fitting parts or flash over the sprues.

Most of their really old kits, like their T-34/76 are incredibly cheap, and still come out looking good despite their molds being from the 1970s and 80s.
>>
>>6066492
Their 1/48 F-15 and A-10 were awful.
>>
>>6066428
Well at least you know now to listen when everyone one on an anonymous message board agrees with a single point of view.
>>
>>6066518
I agree, I've built both and those are ancient kits. Modern Tamiya kits are fantastic though, as are many of their classic kits from the 1990s.

For example, look at their brand new F-14 kit, which is probably the best one on the market currently in 1:48, though AMK is making one themselves that will probably surpass Tamiya's in details.
>>
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By chance does anyone have more photographs of this M4 sherman? In color would be awesome as well.
>>
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>>6066654
Same guy here. This is my 1/16 scale RC M4A3, I'm trying to make it look like the original photo. I ordered some more accurate metal parts for all the various hooks and fittings on the hull. But I definitely have a very long way to go.
>>
>>6066658
Cool! What brand is this? What features?

I've got a henglong PZ III. I saw a lot of German and Russian tanks but I didn't see any Sherman.
>>
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>>6066764
Heng Long. It originally was fit with a different style turret with a 105mm howitzer. I rebuilt and motorized a 76mm T-23 turret.
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>>6066654
>2 reverse track links
>>
>>6066851
If anything, it might make one feel better about putting their tracks on backwards, seeing as how real tank crewmen did.
>>
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The track look pretty good and is workable-ish. Some connections aren't that strong
Also the clean up from the sprues is not bad.
>>
>>6067237
That was a fast build
>>
>>6067306
It's a pretty simple kit. No PE only a rope for the cable.
>>
What does everyone prime with?
>>
>>6067814
>This question again
Look in the last thread near the end and there's your answer
>>
>>6067814
I normally use tamiya and like it. However, I keep hearing about krylong so I went out and got some so I could prime in different colors. I normally dislike spray cans and the krylon just came out either way too fast or too liquidy on test pieces. I might switch the nozzle to one from a tam can and see if that helps.

Decanting into an airbrush might be the best answer here or just buying some lacquer paint
>>
>>6067843
Krylon is shit. Only cheap jews and noobs use it.
>>
Could someone here take a picture of a 1/100 tank next to a can of soda so I have a better sense of scale?
How are Zvezda models? I'm used to putting together Gunpla and 40k kits and thought I'd try historical stuff. Wasn't really a fan of a Revel kit I got last year, didn't care for the plastic.
>>
>>6067814
Tamiya's surface primer in a bottle. Sprays perfect thinned 1:1, I think. I don't recall the exact formula, it's been a little while.
>>
>>6067814
Mr. Surfacer 1000, Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500, and Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer.
>>
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Does anyone know how to homebuild fake cloth pieces, flags or little bundles like pic related?

I haven't found much info apart from buying the extra pieces like in my pic. I did read that shep Paine used tissue paper. I don't know how that would work.
>>
>>6068312
I've never done it desu, but here's a video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WckO9qShoRA
>>
>>6068312
Epoxy putty/sculpting putty is one way.
>>
>>6068312
Painted tissue paper can work ok. I think rolled out pieces of milliput are in your pic
>>
>>6068332
No, it's the Black Dog resin set.
>>
>>6068332
>>6068326
>>6068319

Wow, /toy/ coming through! Thanks for the swift reply guys.

And thank you for the link, I love Andy's videos. I'm watching right now. I'm leaning towards putty, it seems to look better and the extra durability is great.
>>
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>>6066314
Fenders are attached. I'll attach the details later.
>>
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>>6068436
The smoke dischargers are still missing the chains. I don't like the look of the PE chains, but not sure if I want to buy actual chains.
>>
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Thinking of buying a 1/72 Morane-Saulnier MS406ES kit and looking for opinions if full Chinese cartoon models are allowed. I figure it isn't a bank breaker to attempt with both a plane and 1/35 figure in the same box to go into "real" models. Are there any usual issues with Hasegawa aircraft kits? Possible difficulty level? Paint brand rec other than Gunze Sangyo?

Have prior experience putting together various little things and a small batch of fully painted 40k minis so I assume it's not too different in procedure though probably more difficult to make it look good.
>>
>>6067814
Vallejo surface primer
>>
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Can't wait to build this badboy, especially since I work with the real deal every day. Tips for painting? I can't spray because I live in the base dorms. Would like to paint like the Thunderbirds but spraying seems the only way. may build and paint in spring. Don't know where to find model specific paint in japan...
>>
>>6068609
Are you stationed in Japan or what? Most major electronic stores like Yodobashi, Big Camera and Ideon have hobby departments where they sell paint and tools as well.
>>
>>6068627
Yes I am stationed at Misawa so it's a toss up between Thunderbirds or putting a local tail number and tank/armament setup on it. Is it easier to paint by hand or spray outdoor? New to models..
>>
>>6068677
This paint is for sure a spray job with brush touches
>>
>>6068677
Oh, all the way up in Aomori, not sure what stores you've got up there. You could try brush painting but it'll probably be hard work with a pretty shitty result (especially if you're not used to it) so I'd say spray paint.
>>
>>6068677
White is impossible to brush paint.
>>
>>6068312
Two-component epoxy like milliput, brown stuff, green stuff, or grey stuff works great. Put it in a ziplock bag and flatten.
Then you can either drape it directly over your vehicle for tarps. Or let it cure while draped over some rounded shapes for flags.
>>
Good old Dragon. Taking PE, tracks, clear parts etc. out of new kits just wasn't enough for them. They are even taking them out of reissued older kits...
>>
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Hey guys, I'll keep it short, I bought a new air compressor for airbrushing and I at first bought the typical double pump 2 gallon one that's so popular for $109.99 on Amazon, I ended up returning it when I found this one, I think it's around $127.99 and the engine is about 4 times bigger than a hobby compressor, comes mounted on a 5.5 gallon tank, and the build quality is amazing. I thought there had to be a catch, bad seals or it wasn't as quiet as they claimed but I've been thinking about it for a day and I think it's getting put on clearance because it's not quite fast enough for higher PSI shit like a grinder but it's a little big for a hobby pump so no one is buying them.

Anyway, $128.00 well spent, use the Prime trial and get 2 day shipping, I 100% recommend replacing your hobby compressor with it. I do not think they'll be around long at this price. It might seem too big for airbrushing but it's honestly not much bigger than a Paasche mounted on an air tank.

I made a video about it last night before I checked how well sealed it was overnight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOSCDPA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_myFbcjiQ1k
>>
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>>6068443
Hull is mostly done.
>>
>>6068607
oh god, no.


>>6067814
atynylrez is also not bad. much better than vallejo, although not as durable as tamiya
>>
should i get one of the new zvezda tanks? how is their quality. and i'm talking specifically about 2015 models and later(i know the old ones are shit).
>>
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Better?
>>
>>6069586
I started their T-90, was very impressed. Unfortunately it got thrown out while I was deployed.
>>
>>6068443
I don't know how perfectionist you can be, but PE chains should be enough as its in rather hidden place desu
>>
>>6069617
>desu
Filtered :^)
>>
>>6069637
>He doesn't know
Rude.
>>
Was in another thread and saw some cool-ass looking model kits of torture devices and horror monsters. Why did those die out? Like every retailer I've been to only sells car/tank/plane kits.
>>
>>6069682
Because the 60s were weird. Theyre still available through garage kits and stuff
>>
>>6069597
looking good senpai
>>
>>6069682
lindberg line does them still. I saw some reprints at a local outlet store. Lindberg line is pretty bad quality wise though.
>>
I don't like the look of tank camos but a plain color is so boring.

Decisions decisions.
>>
>>6070855
Then what do you like?
>>
>>6070858
Whining it seems
>>
>>6070855
I'll be expecting a candy coat tank with titanium roadwheels then.
>>
Has anyone ever had problems with mig ammo paints?
>>
>>6071335
Some of them are really "runny" and thin so its hard to use them by brush, but besides that.. no.
>>
>>6071335
There was a guy a few threads back that had issues with oils/enamels eating through it
>>
>>6071335
It's shit. Ignore the Mig shills.
>>
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>>6062640
Does anyone make a 1/35th Strv-74?
>>
>>6071425
Have you checked Scalemates.com?
>>
>>6071427
Only thing I could find in a brief search was a nice set of walk around photos in prime portal.
>>
Lost a small door from the ft17 turret. Been looking for the last hour. God fucking dammit
>>
>>6071335
I've painted the base green of my btr, all the Löwe (except the black and chipping colors that I did with tamiya and Vallejo paints) and now the T-90MS with them and didn't have any kind of problem. They spray straight from the bottle from the airbrush (badger patriot 105 at 22 psi) and apply more or less well with a brush. I would say they seat right between Vallejo, as they are the best of the best for brush painting and nothing comes close to them and tamiya which are really good airbrushed.
I must say that tamiya were my favorite for brushing too until I got some Vallejo model color so I would recommend them as workhorse despite needing a special thinner if you don't end liking a.mig.
>>6071541
Shit that sucks, and I got fucked when I lost a clear piece of the optics and had to make it from sprue bits, atleast is something small.
If you don't find it, being a ww1 tank, it shouldn't be hard to scratch build it right?
>>
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>>6062640
>tfw I want to build Meng's T-10M
>tfw 600 individual track pieces
Tell me it's not worth it, please.
>>
>>6071425
No.
>>
>>6071837
Follow your dreams anon
>>
>>6071837
It's not that big of a deal really, Meng kits come with a little jig to put the tracks together so that they're workable, and the cleanup is minimal. Probably just a few hours, like 3-5 total to do the tracks themselves. At least that's my experience from building a few Meng kits with workable tracks.

Go for it.
>>
>>6071425
Not lots of kits of strange Swedish tanks like that.
>>
>>6071837
Buy a pair of memehands and go at it
>>
>>6071425
Is the medium/heavy swedish line even good?
>>
>>6069506
Nice, I wish I lived in America and not in an apartment so I could upgrade my compressor.
>>
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>>6072322
I've heard the Heavies are great, I've barely had time to play though since the update came out with my 12 hour nursing shifts. Before the swedish tanks were released I personally like the Strv-74 with its odd looking turret.
>>6072167
>>6072190
I was looking at a build video of that T-10M kit. Doing the tracks doesn't seem as bad as I thought it would. I still don't know if the kit is right for me. I just don't think I'm skilled enough. Pic related is my most recent model I built.
>>6072208
What are memehands actually called?
>>
Anyone here have an experience with Tamiya Zimmerit strips?

I've just ordered a set quick before I started building my Elefant and I heard they can be a little finicky and don't always stick on properly but I'm sure I could get them to work for me.
>>
>>6072651
>most recent model I built.
Yeah maybe get some more practice in intermediate modelling skills
>What are memehands actually called?
Godhands
>>
>>6073050
>Yeah maybe get some more practice in intermediate modelling skills
Cool, I'll check out some of the links in the OP.
I'll be honest, I'm somewhat embarrassed on how much money I've spent on this hobby, without improving much. I've built maybe over 12 tanks so far and I consider them mostly mediocre.
>>
Is it worth paying for "modeler site"?
>>
>>6073064
In the beginning, spend your money on good quality tools. Buy everything that you require for problems you run into and after some time, you'll see the core of your modelling process and the tools that revolve around it. Then purchase more of those tools to help you tackle a wider range of problems. You might think that you're capable of making mud effects with just some paint and your ingenuity, but only the pros can do so much with so little. You should just buy something specifically made for making mud effects so you can learn how to apply them, not learning to make it from scratch.

After you have a selection of tools spend the majority of your money on materials and for convenience, not kits. Unless you're working full time, pumping out 12 model kits a year is actually quite hard, especially if you start adding aftermarket to every kit.
>>
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Trying to add clutter to this m2 Bradley like it's been abandoned for years and then lived in. I'm going for something inspired by STALKER and fallout. Possibly something like someone used it for a shelter or maybe a merchant sells out of it. Any ideas?
>>
>>6073516
Cool
>>
You guys doing camo is fucking hard.
>>
>>6073632
lol i've only recently started doing it and yeah, it's a paint in the ass. I feel like I'm doing too much in one area, too little in others, not keeping it random, etc.

what pattern are you doing and are you using a brush or ab?
>>
>>6073643
Using a french ww1 3 color with an airbrush. Blue tack didnt give the lines I wanted and idk what to do. I think weathering will help.
>>
>>6073699
pic?
>>
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>>6073705
Plz no bully. I think with some filters and modulation it'll be ok
>>
So kind of on a whim I decided to apply a thin coat of white with a cotton swab on my 1/16 M4. I'll probably do some light streaking over it. How is it looking so far?
>>
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>>6073925
Forgot my pic.
>>
>>6073927
>>6073925
Kinda weird
>>
>>6073699
I'm not sure what is wrong with the lines, but keep in mind that bluetac will tend to "bulge out" sideways as you press it down, creating a bit of an overhang. If you don't make sure ot point the airbrush in under that, you'll get a fuzzy border.

To fix that or the border not being where you want it you can hand paint in the borders of the camouflage, and then use the airbrush to blend that in with the airbrushed fields.
>>
>>6073516
I see you are a man of taste. If you go for something post apocalyptic probably running an afv like that would be costly (fuel, spares, ammo and mechanics) so I would go the happy merchant route or maybe something like a caravan? Or make it like an outpost as a pillow box with some supplies selling on the back. And go with some led lighting for this as is some of the few cases were it wouldn't look tacky
>>6073719
You can save it with what >>6074354 said, either redo the edges with the airbrush or remask, from the pic the top part is plaids but the lower it needs a rework.
Next time use silly putty/panzer putty for masking as it sits better.
Another way is to thin the camo colors a lot (like a filter almost) and with a brush draw the pattern and then when you are happy airbrush it. Although personally if I don't mask I just do it free hand as I feel more comfortable with that
>>6073927
It looks a bit strange, not bad or ugly but something looks off. Too washed out maybe
>>
>>6073927
>>6074575
Here's a better pic. I suppose it is pretty thin. I guess what I had in mind was the winter type paint that would start coming off after the first rain.
>>
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I suck at this.
>>
Retards need to learn how to resize pictures.
>>
>>6074715
retards need to stfu, it's a scale model thread, details are important, the bigger the picture the better
>>
>>6074731
There is no need for 3 to 4 MB pictures that are around 4000 x 3000.

>I'm too retarded to resize pictures.
>>
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>>6074743
Running out of bandwidth there, lad?
>>
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>>6074657
If that's what you're going for then do patches of more defined white and other highlights, also for streaking grime or grime overall use grayish green. More work on the turret overall also with white.
Now it looks like a statue or something.
Check this guy KV-2 for the general look and pic related for another less battered finish.
http://armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=123595
>>
>>6074657
It got that fastly applied winter wash feel that most american tanks had (from what I heard) Maybe next time if you want another effect use salt or AK's "Worn Effect", but for now I would suggest a bit of grime (green and brown is nice to contrast with those dark colors), like >>6074772 suggested
>>
Decals before or after filters? Getting mixed answers. Im thinking after filter, but before washes
>>
>>6074964
>mixed answers
Man, where the fuck did you asked this?
Obviously decals before everything, sealed in satin and then go to town weathering.
As for the order in weathering it varies but always the first thing are filters and then whatever you want to do to it
>>
>>6074990
>>6074964

Filters arent really weathering though. Its a form of color modulation. I say do decals after the filter. You want the background base coat to show through the filter
>>
>>6075004
I'm gonna say that they are a form of weathering tho.
It changes the tone of the whole build, decals included, based on the color you give to it.
What I mean is that for example an afv set in winter with white camouflage can be filtered with grey, brown or green (overall colors for the example) depending of what is the base color that might peek out and the environment: dry winter? Light brown, city? Grey or reddish brown, etc
This is applicable also to whatever other colors you have in your model to play with it as it gives the base setting for further effects and closes the paintjob and the decals to it, as they represent painted markings its obvious that they would be present when exiting the factory or deposit so they get what the afv get in terms of dirt
>>
>>6074964
>>6075004
Do you want your decals to stand out like a sore thumb, or look like they belong?
>>
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This shit is upvoted on reddit. YIKES
>>
>>6075185
Jeeze, which subreddit? I consider myself pretty mediocre, but this is just negligence. Would be better if he actually remembered to paint the lower hull and made the front less glossy.
Actually the more I look a it the more I realize how much hasn't been done. Did he put a lighter up to the tank to make it look burnt out??
>>
>>6075235
r/modelmakers

Literally the most popular modelling sub. Fucking garbage.

Yeah, he put a lighter to it. He claims it's not his first model.
>>
>>6075239
>>6075235
>puts lighter to a model
>has that many Xs in his username
Why am I not surprised?
>>
>>6075251
Actually, having said that, the guy's name is pyromaniac. He's probably an edgy 13 year old who stole his mom's lighter.
>>
>>6075251
>>6075252
He tops it off with not being able to understand criticism. His shit makes me feel better about myself.
>>
>Order Confirmation - Japanese Navy Heavy Cruiser AOBA - Limited Edition / 1:700 52,50 EUR

This fucking plastic drug of a hobby. Just as I complained in the previous thread that building ships is hard I just keep ordering more while I have a good stash of like 20 models already not even started
>>
>>6075269
Only 20? I've lost count of mine.
>>
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>>6075300
Went and rechecked, more like over 30 actually
>>
>>6075185
I believe it was that guys first time weathering or something
>>
>>6075329
>Gundams
I think you need to leave.
>>
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>>6075340
Oh shut up, I havent posted any in here, or in that other blasphemy of a thread.
>>
>>6075333
Well he deleted his post and the account, so no more posts from that guy.
>>
>>6073927
I think it looks good man, especially the tracks.

What's the main difference you have noticed, between painting 1:16 as opposed to 1:35.

I'm speculating that a lot of parts actuslly create shadow, etc
>>
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>Watching new season of The Man in the High Castle
>Notice a ship model in one of the scenes
>Realize it's either a Dragon or Trumpeter 1936A-class of the Kreigsmarine

I''m not 100% positive, but it looks like a built but unpainted Dragon kit. I know because I've built it myself. Crazy the things you notice...

Pretty neat attention to detail though, I mean they could have picked any model of a random ship or whatever, but it was specifically a WWII German destroyer which is interesting.
>>
>>6075589
Some one nerded out and probably pushed pretty hard to get one of those models professionally built for that scene. What else would they pick to put under a swastika? Yamato?
>>
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>>6075610
Well, Kreigsmarine destroyers are admittedly pretty damn obscure, most people when they think of the german navy they think U-boats, or the Bismack / Prinz Eugen and whatnot.

It's just so rare to see anything related to scale modelling in tv shows / movies, it was especially weird to see a kit I instantly recognized because I've built it myself.

Looking back on it, this was about 2 years ago mind you, I really, REALLY over-did the wash. I should go back and try to clean it up a lot as well as do some more weathering on the hull, like rust and whatnot, and then do the rigging properly, not half-ass it like I did before.
>>
>>6068609
"Because I was inverted''
>>
>>6075630
I think it looks perfect. I always enjoy your builds
>>
>>6075461
Thanks! Honestly there isn't a whole lot of difference in 1:16 to 1:35. It's easier to miss certain parts though, and also when you apply washes and weathering it takes a bit more work for it to show. The main issue is that it's a remote control kit, and so youll have to touch up certain parts somewhat regularly.
>>
Hey guys I need some help.

I just tested some humbrol enamel matt cote for the first time on an old kit and everything went well, then I decided to mix up some more and coat my other models, but as I started to brush it on it started stripping the acrylic paint off underneath, it's done it with three different models now (underside of the tank luckily enough).

could I have gotten the mixture wrong?
I tried to add more thinner to the second batch because the first test batch was a little thick and dried really quickly.
>>
>>6076538
I'm pretty sure enamel thinners are hell on acrylic paint, so adding more was what made it strip your paint
>>
>>6076552
but won't thinning it out less leave me with really thick coat on my tank?
>>
>>6076557
Try applying less of it? Either more thinned or less thinned, that should make for both less thinner on the paint, and a thinner layer of varnish.

Alternatively, find some gloss varnish that won't kill the paint, but will resist the thinner for a little while at least, and apply that first. Let cure for a few days (for acrylics, possibly more otherwise) before you go for the enamel varnish. Then again, at that point a less aggressive matte varnish could also be an idea.
>>
>>6076565
I brushed it on sparingly but it was taking the paint off straight away, I'll try to keep it 1:1 coat and thinner and see how that goes.
>>
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My last kit before the Christmas haul, a 1/35 Tamiya challenger 1 mk3
>>
>>6076773
What the fuck happened to the figure?
>>
>>6076810
There was a freak accident involving wash. I hate painting figures so I didn't bother fixing it.
>>
>>6076856
If you didn't bother to fix it, you shouldn't bother to post.
>>
>>6076885
not him, but the tank looks pretty good. No need to get diddled over a toy army man friend
>>
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>>6076885
I'm sorry that my toy figure offended you. Here's the side with the fucked up road wheels to make you feel better
>>
>>6076908
To clarify, this side goes against the wall, so I, nor anybody else have to look at my fuck ups
>>
>>6076900
it just looks like a generic toy
>>
>>6076242
I'll keep this in mind. I still haven't been brave enough to touch mine yet. I'm actuslly nervous to disassemble it. I don't want to break a clip or a wire.
>>
>>6077057
why thank you!
>>
>>6076908
How does one fuck up road wheels that bad .What happened
>>
well:

I may have tried to replicate grains of sand with very out of scale grains of salt, which I set on using some spray on scenery glue. When the salt set, I realized how shitty it was, it was too late. I tried to salvage it by dry brushing, but the salt just kept on breaking off, so I ruined one side of a tank as well as my best brush with that experiment.

I would not recommend trying this out.
>>
>>6077283
...why?
What were you trying to do? Post pics tho it might be salvageable
>>
>>6077294
I was trying to weather it, but I think I'll stick to dry brushing for now.

Album: http://m.imgur.com/a/DbTxZ
>>
>>6077322
Try pigments next time.
>>
>>6077283
this is pretty funny since you could have just used real fine sand or dirt to do what you wanted to do.

It may seem like a simple idea, but next time you can try a new technique out on a spare piece, old kit or bit of runner before you take it to your model. Usually the most incompatible ideas are glaringly shit as soon as you try them so you wont even waste time.

Dont be discouraged to try new things otherwise you'll never get any better.
>>
>>6077283
Why would you even think garins of salt would look ok?

Like, salt and sand are the same size right? Why would you use 1/1 salt for a 1/35 grain of sand?

Goddamn im mad
>>
>>6072341

You can run this in a 1 bedroom apartment, I assure you. It's no louder than one of those little blue hobby pumps. You could just sit it on a towel to get rid of vibration and airbrush to your heart's content.
>>
Hey do you all have any tips on doing really tiny stencils? I want to repaint a toy with a hex tile pattern in spot areas, and by my estimation, to get them the right scale they'll have to be 1mm hex tiles. I have no idea where to start. Is there a way to custom print water slide decals? Should I try to get a rubber stamp made and just use thinned acrylics to stamp it out on the figure?
>>
>>6077935
Best way is gonna be custom decals for something that small
>>
>>6077935
There's waterslide decal paper for inkjet and laser printers.
>>
>>6075340
are you intimidated by Glorious Nippon plastic?, its been folded 1000 times
>>
>>6077944
>>6078011
I'll look into the water slides. I'm guessing that what it'll involve is painting a base color layer, sealing that, then using the water slide as a tint layer over the color (just to shift the hue a little in varying spots from the base yellow to scattered orangish tiles). Does that seem feasible? It'd be on a curved surface.
>>
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>>6078126
Waterslide transfers are usually not just a tinting thing, even though the underlying colour can show through to some degree. But that simply means you print a colour closer to your desired end result.

A curved surface will make MicroSol or a similar thing even more important than on a flat surface, but you'd want that anyway. For very heavily curved surfaces you'll probably have to start "cutting up" the design you want to apply, given the normal problems with going from flat to round surfaces and vice versa.
>>
hey Canucks,Leafs where do you get your supplies and kits from? only small orders. are local hobby shops over priced? there is one close to me
>>
>>6069605
The zvezda T-90 (both 1/35 and 1/72) has dimensional issues with the lower hull, but its otherwise very good

its only really noticeable if you're autistic about slavshit
>>
>>6065985
What company is that so I can avoid it like the plague
>>
>>6079060
It's not the kit, it's the builder.
>>
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Got this today
>>
>>6079079
I don't think the builder has anything to do with a panel gap like that.
>>
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>>6079103
Yes, yes he does.
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/meng/ts008d06.html
>>
Are 1/16 Trumpeter tanks worth the money?
>>
>>6079081
Did you get all the extra bits and bobs?

How much did it run you?
>>
>get H&S Ultra
>doesn't come with air hose/adaptor

Do i have to a get a H&S hose/adapter i have no idea wtf nominal diameter 2.7 mm is equivalent to
>>
>>6079153
I got all the little extras except the glowing radiators.

Ended up costing around 170 AUD, but I bought with HLJ so I paid 110 or so AUD for the tank/parts first, then just let them sit in my warehouse for a few weeks then paid shipping so it was easier on the wallet.
>>
>>6079138
The real question is if you want a huge tank or not.
Also if you have the level to work on them and the space for storing them later is what you should ask yourself.
Is a 300+€ ship worth? If you can pull it off of course, if you are going to make some mediocre job then it's better to buy some kits with those 300€ first.
The kits are pretty detailed and more or less easy to build, but the trick comes to detailing while building (cables and stuff like that) and the paint job/weathering.
>>
>>6079395
Mine did, although I bought it in a bundle. The airbrush itself should have both quick detach and screw-fittings out of the box, any hose should be fine but obviously you get what you pay for.
>>
>>6078744
Ah I see, I'm not too crazy about that level of detail. I remember being very impressed with the level of detail on the turret though.
>>
>>6079121
>>6079103
>>6079079
>>6079060
Jesus you guys its been fixed get off my dick
>>
>>6079602
I was never on your dick, I was defending you
>>
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When I look into ur eyes, I c the universe bb
>>
>>6079643
THINNNN YOUR COCK that i see in your mouth
>>
Noob transferring from miniature wargaming.

What are some good quality/price balance scale model muscle car manufacturers? Want to try some (pref 1/24 scale).

[s]I'm in Yoorop[/s]
>>
>>6079651
Tamiya's usually a reasonably safe bet. But do wring any kit that catches your eye through Google first though, every manufacturer has a bad day sometimes. Get intimate with scalemates while you're at it.
>>
>>6079651
Scalemates.com should have reviews to almost every kit.
>>
>>6079699
Some of which may even tell you something about the kit, beyond the box art.
>>
>>6079726
Now now, let's not jump the gun here
>>
>>6079674
>>6079699

Thanks guys.
>>
How long dors it take a filter to dry?
>>
>>6069586
You can't go wrong with their small scale ground units, I'm currently doing their BMPT in 35th, can't wait to get the 72nd one.
>>
Best P-40 kit?
>>
>>6080244
What scale? Which variant?
>>
>>6080261
1/48 I guess. No preference on variant
>>
>>6080177
Can i ask what kit that is?
>>
>>6080362
Pretty sure Airfix just came out with a brand new tooled P-40 kit a few weeks ago. Go for that, should be cheap and new-tooled airfix kits are of good quality. Otherwise, Hasegawa makes a nice one as well, but it's older.
>>
>>6080362
In 1/48, Hasegawa P-40E is the best option. Avoid Bronco, Trumpeter, and Airfix P-40s, they have serious accuracy issues.
>>
>>6080098
Enamel or oil, amount of solvent in there, thickness applied, atmospheric conditions...
>>
>>6076885
Nobody said you had to be good at scale modeling to post here. Maybe you should should suggest to him some techniques instead of being a nigger about it.
>>
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>>6075269
>tfw you but a cheap boat/tank just to practice weathering and painting techniques
>wind up spending 50 extra dollars on aftermarket photo etch, barrels, etc because your autism kick in
>>
>>6080678
Let's call it modelling induced irrationality
>>
>>6076908
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=no2zBike6Q0

If you're using Vallejo paints, this will help
>>
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>>6080678
I'm pretty happy that I managed to resist all that when building my super budget Amatsukaze. All in all I don't think I spent more than 30 bucks on everything that I used (kit, tools, paints, glue, clay, brushes, display case, cutting board).
>>
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>>6080678
>tfw you're just buying supplies at the shop then autism get a hold if you and started buying full kits then question yourself why you bought it in the first place
>>
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>>6080411
>>
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>>6080678
>spend about 200€ on kits in the past couple of months
>want aftermarket for them
>need paint and weathering shit for them
>STILL don't have a paint booth
>only now bought a respirator
>only have 3 kits I deem presentable
>most kits I built are broken or I use them as test beds for painting
>have 20+ kits started
>>
>>6080411
Dragon 1/72 Saturn V with skylab
>>
>>6081524
>Dragon 1/72 Saturn V with skylab
Are you building one by any chance?
>>
>>6081546
unfortunately not yet. I'm getting myself a U.S.S Independence for christmas, and i'm gonna get the Saturn V for my birthday.
>>
>>6080848
I like it.
>>
>>6079420
The radiators are terribly priced anyway; it's literally 2 blue LEDs and a battery. I made my own for like $5.

>>6079532
I'm confident I can do a good job, but they just don't look like there's -enough- there to justify the price tag. And yeah, like you said, I don't really have a good place to put one.
>>
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I'm really starting to hate this kit.
>>
>>6082941
are you airbrushing?
>>
>>6082941
>I'm too retarded and impatient
>>
>>6082979
More like suicidal
>>
>>6082949
Yea. Not real happy with the camo but a few filters toned it down. Currently working on some washes and then I'll get the bastard assembled.
>>
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>>6082989
>suicidal over a model
>>
Guys im building a Tamiya Modern New Jersey and its my first ship any tips on doing the deck colors and painting
>>
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Just finished my second kit.
>>
>>6083940
Not terrible, but there are a few places which need attention for next time
>>
>>6083982
Thanks. What could use work?
>>
>>6084047
the paint you used orange peeled. notice how it isn't exactly smooth, but full of bumps like orange peels? I believe that has to do with humidity and temperature when spraying
>>
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>>6084047
Seam line along the front of the kit, just ahead of the wheels
The interior of the headlights should be reflective silver not the body colour
The right (and presumably left) indicator lights should be coloured in. That goes for both in the headlight bay and on the side of the car
The bonnet isnt seated all the way in
The windscreen wiper bay should be black, not white
Incomplete seam weld on the rear view mirrors
Radio antenna should be painted in
Rubber seal around the windows and windscreen should be black, not white

On top of those, you missed out some optional techniques as well like
Washes around the door handle, Toyota logo on the rims and door frame
Highlighting on the windscreen wipers

That's all that I can see from this angle. I'm sure there is more stuff on the back and interior

>>6084071
>orange peeled
Yeah it did but that's something which fixes itself from research and experience
>I believe that has to do with humidity and temperature when spraying
Somewhat but there are a myriad of other causes. Unless you can factor in all of them at once, focusing on one specific cause wont help your paint unless that was the only off variable.

He could also have spray canned it, not to mention they can still polish and clear coat to fix it.
>>
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Oh my.
>>
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OH MY!

I´ve never had a ship model with photoetch AND brass barrels. This is very nice! Didnt even think it would arrive this week since postal services dont work that well.

Got some Mig fine rigging too, kinda meh, same stuff as Uschi´s but pricier for the amount you get.
>>
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>>6085977
>>6085978

have fun building it and be extra careful with A24 piece.

I sorta want to build another Aoba/Furutaka class after i finish the current one, how is Ryuujou CVL?
>>
>>6083000
>Not understanding hyperbole
>>
I'm a newfag to modelling, it doesn't really matter what brand primer i use right?

I plan to use AK grey primer for 2 models, one for Tamiya acrylic and another model using AMMO by Mig acrylic paint, does it matter?

Should i get black primer instead? they're both tank models btw
>>
>>6086546
It doesn't as long you're not a messy failure, if you are use solvent based (the ones that you can sand as it bites into te plastic) like tamiya (can), mr surfacer, etc. As for the acrylic ones I use Vallejo but ak and mig should be fine.
Prime in whatever color you want, black is easier to hide fuck ups and poor paint jobs. Grey is the best as it's pretty neutral.
Why does this primer faggotry comes up every fucking thread?
>>
>>6086000
Aoshima just released a brand new Ryujo earlier this year, but there's also a Fujimi version that's not that much older.
>>
Coming from a gunpla builder, im just asking what demographic you guys are and how did you get into this hobby? just asking as i know that this specific hobby has been on a big decline for years.
>>
>>6087565
20 m. traditional warhammer-esque kits could not satisfy my want for large mech models, and i somehow ended up on /m/ and following the gunpla/plamo threads
>>
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Hey anons, just discovered you this. I normally just stick to /tg/ these days.
Anyway, I'm working on a Pz II F conversion using the older 1/35 Tamiya Pz II F/G tooling and working towards getting it to match up with the Girls und Panzer: Der Film's Nishizumi family Pz II F.
It started off with one of the guys down at one of the local hobby shops insisting it was a straightforward build. Once I started looking over the few screen caps I took of the movie version, I realized I needed to do a lot of crap to it to make it look right. FML, it started to bloat like the F-35 project.

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone has advice on soldering photo etched parts, particularly around bends so that the edges are flush?
Also, I hear that there's a GuP movie book with some detailed 3D production art of the tank in question and am wondering if anyone can post pictures of it? I googled my ass off but it's either unavailable or my google fu is too weak for the task.

Notes on construction so far if anyone's curious:
Cut out and drilled driver's port area
Removed posts and inserted lazy mode periscopes and ribs to cupola
Cut off fenders and insert a resized photo etched fender intended for a different Pz II kit (Dragon?)
Filled in hole on engine deck hatch and placed in copper wire handles
Added some weld marks with thinned out Squadron putty
Filled in front spare wheel/cable mount
Drilled out peep hole in mantlet and added a slat above it
Added a magnet into the turret roof so the Miho resin figure is detachable
>>
>>6087748
Pardon the typos.
Just an added note: The Tamiya kit really shows its age but there are definitely worse kits out there by far. Fitting and molding is good but not necessarily perfect. If you're shooting for IRL accuracy, there are definitely better kits to work from. As far as pricing goes though, it's a really cheap kit. Like around 10-15 dollars cheap.
>>
>>6087565
24 m. I like tonks and building stuff so it fits until I can build my own tank I suppose
>>6087748
Are you doing an actual ausf f or one that looks like the one in the movie?
The tamiya kit is pretty good for starters, but if you were going to go full sperg (and from what you posted you aren't exactly a beginner) maybe dragon would be a """""better""""" starting point. But as you already started working and have the AM ready then keep going.
As for PE here a vid that covers everything:
https://youtu.be/6fZxI8ryWeM
The pain in the ass is getting a good soldering stick and maintain it trust me, once you have one that runs well it's ez pz working with it, although I use CA 99% of the time nowadays as it's faster and gets the same results in my case.
Also were did you get the figure? It would be cool to have a full crew of them
>>
USS New Jersey nearing Completion 1 350 Tamiya
First Ship Build guys how do you weather ships
>>
>>6088104
Oops Forgot Photo
>>
>>6088076
>Are you doing an actual ausf f or one that looks like the one in the movie?
A little of both. The one from the movie appears to be somewhat accurate and I'm taking notes from real life examples and the movie model. I'm not well read on the variations in production but the Pz.IIF from the movie appears, at a guess, to be an early production.

>maybe dragon would be a """""better""""" starting point
I think it would because it's going to save on some work like cutting away the fenders. That was a pain in the ass. One of the boxes was molded to both the fender and the hull and you lose out on some of the tools which were also molded to the fenders. For 1/35, the barrel looks like crap but it is something around a 45 year old tooling.
All that said, it does make a good learner kit given price and fitting. Though, now that I think about it, there was a fitting issue with the vinyl cap and sprockets.

>As for PE here a vid that covers everything:
Thanks! I understood part of it but I don't understand Russian, so some of the details are lost on me..
I'm using soldering paste, which helps a bit with the handling of parts. It's still a problem in some spots though.

>Also were did you get the figure? It would be cool to have a full crew of them
They're recasts of a convention exclusive, which I felt are better quality sculpts compared to the official 1/35 ones from the likes of Fine Molds.
The set is mostly of one character but I'm thinking of modifying a bunch of them. Something to note is that, while the casting is really nice, there's a problem with a tiny air bubble in the chin of most of the heads. It's an easy fix though, so I don't consider it a huge negative by any means.
http://www.e2046.com/p/Garupan+Akiyama+Collection/21472/


..I just realized they deleted the drivers' armored visor.
>goddamnit.avi
>>
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Early Christmas for me. My significant other bought me these. That's why I let her dress our bed with zebra print.
>>
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>>6088408
Nice. My gf bought me pic related. Really excited.
>>
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>>6088408
>>6088514
>>
>>6087565
I'm 30, and i started with this hobby when i was like 10 or 11. I built 1:76/1:72 WW2 tanks and planes made by Matchbox, Revell and Airfix to play with them with my army men.
Around 15 i stopped because i got my own PC around that time and the Internet and Online games happened. (also girls, but that was kinda rare).
I never lost the interest in historical topics though, and i always played WW2 games and read alot of books about history, military and tanks in general. (World of Tanks and War Thunder in particular were like dreams come true and their tank models gave me an immense nostalgia boost)

I came back to the hobby when i was around 25 with a job and lots of disposable income but no real hobbies besides internet. I bought a couple of kits out of boredom (and inspired by a WoT-Italeri-Cooperation) and now i'm back into it.
(I also started playing a historical wargame called Bolt Action around a year ago, which is kinda modeling related since you build/paint miniatures and tanks there as well. Its 1/56 scale).
>>
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>>6088408
>>6088514
i got this bad boy. and the worst thing is that i never build car before.
>>
>>6087565

I always liked trains (Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends, pre CGI, ofcourse) and aircraft. I really can't remember how I got into Trains desu, that's how long I have been into them.

With planes though, one day my dad had me watch Memphis Belle and I got hooked. I lived in TJ when I was younger but my dad had a business with mostly American clients so we would go up every day pretty much and look at the aircraft coming down San Diego Intl while cruising down I5 and I would watch my dad build models for himself until one day he brought me a Monogram AV-8 Snap Tite and we built it together.

That was all it took. I kinda wish he would have stayed around for longer as I know we would both have developed the hobby much better. To date I don't have an AB or compressor but I hoard them in hopes of getting one soon.
>>
>>6088566
That looks fucking nice. Do you know if it is a new tool or rebox? Get micromesh pads, you will need them to buff the finish on that sucker.
>>
>>6088566

Good luck with it.
>>
>>6087565
White, 27, 100k family income. I like guns and models
>>
with vinyl acrylics its often needed to spray many very thin coats to stop orange peel effect

do i have to spray many thin coats of primer as well, or can i just do a few medium coats like tamiya acyrlics?
>>
Marry Christmas everyone
>>
>>6089641
U2 boo
>>
>>6089641
:3 u too
>>
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>>6089641
>>
fuck.
>>
>>6089922
Did you drop a piece?
>>
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Merry C! My brethren of black interest!
Before starting Aoba I decided to revisit my Dragon 1/700 Tirpitz. Original reason for putting it away was my frustration at making the dazzle camo, which at first came out as too dark. Now I got some AKAN acrylics set for Kriegsmarine colors and it looks better now.
Masking this camo has been a nightmare. Got also some small paint leaks and I need to fix them.I also need to paint main and secondary guns.


>>6087565
Soon turning 27, got some Airfix and Revell around age 7 for christmas and used them for playing around. I got interested and been building on and off since then.
>>
>>6087565
17 M, I got a kit when I was much younger that I saw in a shop, have been building on and off since
>>
>>6090050
I'm not a ship guy (so I'm not sure if it's something common to do what you posted) but how are you going to paint the wood deck now? seems a bigger pita to mask than the dazzle desu or is the superstructure is not glued yet
>>
>>6090355
Happy holidays :v)
>>
>>6090050
Painting that camo on the superstructure really seems nightmarish. The weathering also seems like it would be a bitch.
>>6087565
I'm a 27 year old fucking white male. My dad built a shit ton with me when I was a kid but I didn't pick the hobby back up until I was in my twenties. Always been in to military stuff but it was those pesky Japanese cartoons that got me building again.
>>
>>6087565
I suspect the demographics here are determined more by this being 4chan than by the model making bit.

34 white guy. Dad got me some kits when I was a kid, from that and some RPGs I slid into warhammer for a while, then after having been out of that for a while I felt I had to get back to making stuff, so I got back into model kits.
>>
>>6090392
I really dont know how. Upper part of the superstructure in front and behind the smokestack is not glued in but it still leaves the lower part. I guess I´ll just paint it by hand, i´ll figure it out eventually.
This is why you need to plan ahead when building ships, I didnt and here we are.
>>
>>6090942
I don't know if this will work out for your or not:
Try using some foil tape and cut strips to mask the edges by burnishing it to the form of the area and then cutting away the areas you want exposed with a hobby knife. That can only really be done where edges meet so the hobby knife won't leave a mark and will have a guide to run on. You can mask the rest with some regular masking tape and paper sections (for large areas.) The masking is intended for spraying of course.
>>
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Hey /toy/,
I got a model M-18 Hellcat for Christmas, and I'm super excited to get into it and start building. I read though some of the guides from the OP, but I had a few questions before I started.

To start, is a normal x-acto knife, side-cut pliers, fine-grain sandpaper, and tweezers good?
Pic related is the paint I got, it's enamel and doesn't contain all the colors needed in the instructions. I'm not super picky on details yet and don't want to buy new paint if it's not ideal, as long as it'll look alright. If I were to buy new colors for the ones not included, should I stick with enamel for my first build?
Do I paint before I attach the pieces?
Is the Testors liquid cement in the black bottle good to start?
I'm supposed to clean the sprues in warm slightly soapy water, right?

From what I've read, general process seems to be:
Cut from sprues, sand down the excess from cutting off, paint if needed, test-fit a few times, glue it and wait to dry, then continue.

I think that's about all I had, all advice is warmly welcomed.
Thanks /toy/!
>>
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this monstrosity is brought to you by r/battlefield_one.
>>
>>6091145
>To start, is a normal x-acto knife, side-cut pliers, fine-grain sandpaper, and tweezers good?
I'd try and get some needle files as well, they make filing down fine areas far simpler.
>Pic related is the paint I got, it's enamel
Can't help you there, I'm an acrylics guy.
>Is the Testors liquid cement in the black bottle good to start?
Can't help you there, though I recommend Tamiya's extra thin for all plastics now. It's great stuff.
>I'm supposed to clean the sprues in warm slightly soapy water, right?
It's recommended that you do that, in case any mould releasing agent is still present; that can interfere with glue and paint.
>Cut from sprues, sand down the excess from cutting off, paint if needed, test-fit a few times, glue it and wait to dry, then continue.
Pretty much, although for your first time I'd recommend painting after building entirely, bar the wheels/tracks. They're FAR easier when done separately.
>>
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Got myself a belated Christmas present but I realized that there weren't any railing included. Would it be okay to get some generic 1/700 railing or should I try to find some that fit this specific kit?
>>
>>6091145
>To start, is a normal x-acto knife, side-cut pliers, fine-grain sandpaper, and tweezers good?

It should do. A needle file's next.

The paint, hm, wasn't Testors kinda crap? Can't recall, haven't used them.

>Do I paint before I attach the pieces?

Generally, yes. But sometimes it's just too bloody hard to paint something once everything's in place, or plain impossible. You simply have to decide on a case by case basis.

>I'm supposed to clean the sprues in warm slightly soapy water, right?

Usually no need, but if there is a need and you didn't... Yeah, you may as well get the habit of doing it.

>Cut from sprues, sand down the excess from cutting off, paint if needed, test-fit a few times, glue it and wait to dry, then continue.

Pretty much, yes.

One thing is that the instructions will often have you complete one "region" of a tank at a time. I prefer to, as far as possible, start by putting together all the big, sturdy stuff, and then add on the tiny and easy to break shit afterwards, to minimize the amount of fucking around I have to do with the fragile stuff attached.
>>
What is up with the 1/700 scale ship meme? Why don't you buy 1/350 ships?
>>
>>6091217
Because anything bigger than a destroyer takes up a shit ton of space.
>>
>>6091244
This.
Also its a nice way to build up skill, 1/350 is ezmodo
>>
>>6091199
If you got a hard-on for absolute accuracy then get one for german cruisers, otherwise get some generic 1/700 railings. It's honestly hard to see the difference unless you're looking specifically at the fault
>>
>>6091199
Can't be too hard to find specially made stuff.

Scalemates had this one: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/961312-toms-modelworks-751-german-cruiser-prinz-eugen-detail-up-set-for-tamiya-trumpeter-kit-2-pe-sheets
>>
>>6091244
But it looks like shit and lacks detail like. It's like building 1/144 fighter planes
>>
>>6091345
Hey, if you have to live in an aircraft hangar to get your mom through the door that's all fine and dandy I guess, but most of us have to make do without enough spare space to keep an a320 around.
>>
>>6091345
So you´re saying you lack the skill to make your 1/700 ships detailed?
>>
>>6091435
yes
>>
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>>6091449
You´ll get there. Just look at modelshipwrights site and weep at the quality that one greek guy is pushing out in 1/700 and 1/1250.
Then we weep, we weep at our miserable existences that will never make something so nice and so small.
>>
>>6091191
>>6091201
Alright, I bought a set of needle files as well.
Cleaned the sprues with soapy water, going to start building after they dry.
I'll paint most of it after assembling, sounds like the way to go for the first one. I'll try out enamel since it's what I have and if I don't like it I'll try acrylic.

Thanks for the advice!
>>
>>6091187
Ugh
>>
>>6091470
My God that's amazing, I wish I could do that... Gotta get practicing, I guess
>>
>>6091217
1/700 costs $20-30 for even the largest ships. 1/350 ships can run from $50 to 150. Plus, they take up a shitton of space and take a lot longer to finish than 1/700 botes.
>>
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>>6093020
B..But... Muh independence

21 inches of PURE TERROR
>>
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>>6093126
C'mon now, quit half assing it.
>>
New thread when?
>>
>>6093161
We could some faggy image with some of the builds of this year as a special edition or something
>>
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>order some $70 booth
>fan doesn't work (rotor is very stiff)
>mfw

brehs do you think its okay to spray without a fan, i'm only gonna use acrylics, i have a respirator and the booth (even with no fan) should contain the spray right?
Thread posts: 356
Thread images: 89


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