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Scale Model General

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Thread replies: 337
Thread images: 93

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This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) model kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs/

Got a question about a kit? Check out:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/

Previous Thread:
>>6016607
>>
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Sprue Brothers are having a sale all weekend; 20% off orders over $30.
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One down, five more to go...
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>>6036060
...goddam
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>>6036060
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>>6034891
One of the joints cracked so I'll have to redo it. I'll also have to redo the lifting hooks as the instructions have them the wrong way.
>>
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Finished the short one. One side has been done

40 links more to go. The size of copper wire I'm using is 20
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>Have some money to spare
>Browse around Amazon for kits I wanna build
>Decide to get Tamiya M3 Stuart and M8 howitzer(also mecha kit but no one here cares)
>Buy them
>Check on order later in the day
>2 Tamiya 1/35 M3 Stuart kits

I was too fucking retarded to check the quantity of what I was buying... for the second time this year.

Don't wanna cancel because they're already shipping, from Japan, just for that extra annoyance and confusion in last minute cancelations/returns.

What do I do with the extra tank?
>>
>>6036978
Shove it up your ass
>>
>>6036978
use ita s a spare.

the tracks of tamiya stuart is inaccurate as fuck. did you even research?
>>
>>6037207
Will do

>>6037243
Nah, did barely any research other than seeing cheap tamiya light tanks and desiring to build those cute little things.
You're right about the tracks, but it shouldn't be too hard to fix them, just cut the outer metal bits off the rubber pads and attach them back in their proper positions using wire and probably glue, it'll just take awhile.
>>
Sorry for shilling, but this store here has some AK Interactive paint sets for a 50% discount. (Scroll halfway down the page)

https://www.fantasywelt.de/-50-SALE-_s3
>>
>>6037393
>Germany
No, thanks.
>>
>>6037402
They make Big Guns though
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Hobby-Boss-Model-82903-1-72-German-280mm-K5-E-Railway-Gun-Leopold/1404704_32369948133.html
>>
>>6036245
try soldering provided you have a soldering paste.
it's riskier but it's better than super glue
>>
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Wow the last thread moved really fast. Small update, cleaned the pieces and primed some of the areas that kept me from finishing the construction part. When this is finshed I can finally glue all that stuff and get to the painting stage.
Also ammo mig online store is doing a 20% off of everything (a bit of shilling doesn't hurt anyone in offers)
>>6036978
Paint them in two different colors like race cars and play with them :^)
Or just build them and get x2 practice, try doing two different theaters so you don't get bored doing the same. Also try different damage, maybe one burned out and the other functional
>>6036814
That's a lot of work for little gain, are you sure your time is worth less than 30€ friul tracks?
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Another AA gun ready for paint.
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God damn it you fucking frogs, I expected my order to be processed and sent between 4-6 working days, and only now it is being processed?
How hard is it to send fucking mail?
>>
>>6037943
Why would you ever order from 1001modelkits? They are infamous for screwing people over. Just one of hundreds of threads about them. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/282323-www1001modelkitscom/
>>
>>6037943
>.uk
>frogs
What?
>>
>>6037902
Kit is AFV Club 1/35 Flakvierling 38. Barrels are Master Model.
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>>6037950
I actually looked up reviews and it looked pretty decent (as opposed to hannats) as well as they were the only ones having MiG-23 decals in stock.
>>6037951
they are french
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>>6037961
>.uk
>French
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>>6037943
>ordered RB model Leopard 2 barrel from Poland on ebay on November 18th
>"the set was receiver from the manufacturer incomplete and it should be shipped on monday"
>2 kits from Britain arrived 2 days early and the shipping only cost 8 pounds
>>
>>6037964
i hope you realize that 1001modelkits has like a dozend domains for probably every european country.

1001maquettes.fr
1001modellbau.de
1001modellini.it
1001maquetas.es
1001modelbouw.nl
1001modelkits.com
1001modelkits.co.uk

They all are the same company. From France. Paris to be specific.
>>
>>6037968
They are located and based in the UK. They ship out to their "warehouses" in other countries which then do the final shipping.
>>
>>6037974
Anon, pls

From their facebook page:

>Retail Company · Toy Store in Paris, France
>28 rue du chemin vert

From their "contact" page on the website:

> Standard mail Our postal address is: 1001Maquettes 28 Rue du chemin vert 75011 Paris France The 1001modelkits team.
>>
I figure you guys are the best to ask this; will airbrushed matt varnish cloud water effects? I need to protect a mini with water effects on the base, and I'm concerned that I could ruin them.
>>
>>6038058
Varnish will kill any non "matt" finish obviously. You can reprint the parts you want to shine again with glossy varnish or wet effects again
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>>6038074
Yeah, I'm concerned that it'll actually cloud the water effects though, as at the minute I have a (shallow) pool for some running water.
Pic related, the mini and base in question. Not Scale model, I know, but I'm here for the techniques. I'll post my Tiger when the goddamn paint arrives... :(
>>
>>6038144
>Not Scale model, I know, but I'm here for the techniques

We should mention something about model figures in the title since some people have already built and posted them here.

Now to your question; if you matt coat the base of that figure, the water wont look like water and the snow wont look like snow, so best to go mask that area first, matt coat the model, then mask the mini and gloss coat the base. It's twice as much work but it will ensure you got the correct finish on both surfaces.

You can also go ahead and put a touch of gloss on the goggles too.
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>>6038237
This

On a reated note if you take the techniques of painting 1/35 faces and use it on action figures you get great results
>>
>>6038237
My usual varnish, as I mostly produce wargaming stuff, is gloss followed by matt. Masking the base will be a pain in the arse to do, purely based on the size; that gap between her feet is tiny. I've had mixed answers regarding an initial gloss coat, then a matt coat followed by a gloss coat; I think I'm going to just have to run some tests.
>>
>>6038307
>>6038144

You can always brush the varnish on by hand.. that makes it way more easy to control..
>>
>>6038728
But also leads to an uneven finish.
>>
>>6038802
>>6038802
It's only uneven if you don't thin the medium down well enough
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>>6036978
Did you not notice when your total was an extra 30 bucks?
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This kit isn't as shoddy as I had feared. For a ~8$ 1/700 destroyer it has decent details except for the hull. It's a lot more fun than I had expected.
>>
>>6037756
Yes considering the amount of free time and I have. Friuls tend to be more expensive than the model itself and IMO adds some mechanical challenge that for others say is unecessary.
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>>6037277
If you're looking for cheap, there are some cheap but a bit more modern tamiya stuff such as during the 1990's.
>>
>>6038307
So, I ended up just airbrushing matt then gloss. Looks fine :)
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Is Hasegawa the only company to make a model of the Ise Class battleship? Looking mainly for when she got her flight deck but I'm not a fan of the waterline style of model
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>>6039303
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/957232-fujimi-42185-ise
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/956827-fujimi-60030-carrier-battleship-ise
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/604216-kami-de-korokoro-sk-001-deformed-ise
>>
Are miniart figures good? I know there are certain brands to avoid
>>
>>6039393
Not really. They put out a lot of kits with really shitty plastic.
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>>6039462
>he doesn't like new Miniart releases
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>>6039469
>>6039462
Looking at the french tank crew. Thoughts?
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>>6039011
>want to finish my amatsukaze
>hate wearing the respirator
>too cold to open the window
>too cold to paint outside

I don't have that much either just finishing up the external modules. Paint job is shoddy though but far from my worst work
>>
>>6038901
Nope, and it was only 16 bucks extra.
>>6039078
Decided to contact the seller, did in time to cancel the shipment, ordered the same stuff again minus the Tamiya kits, instead I went for a Revell 1/72 Abrams, it'll look nice next to my T90.
>>
>>6039639
I guess that's some of the advantages using acrylics and brushes. The overall downside is of course the end results.
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>>6039469
Still shitty plastic.
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>>6039393
Some faces have sean lines running through the center of the face. The body is relatively good but not the best
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>>6039393
They choose a far range subjects than dragon or tamiya. The moulding is acceptable IMO

Dragon Gen 2 is the best in terms of moulding details but added the assembly process and the majority of their subjects is german.

>pic related gen2 hohenstaufen division
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>Tfw I just wanted to prime the hard to reach parts in black and ended priming it all
Well I might try then to do a reverse preshading then
>>
>New company makes new Kübelwagen
>It's completely inferior to a 20 year old kit

Honestly, this is just sad, the molding quality looks like garbage. How have the Japanese perfected injection molding so well? It's amazing how much more crisp most stuff produced in Japan is to other manufacturers.

http://www.themodellingnews.com/2016/11/build-review-shootout-hero-hobby-vs.html?m=1
>>
>>6040548
Not the first time and won't be the last. Hobby Boss' Leopard 2 are pretty much toys and worse than the much older Tamiya ones. So glad Meng decided to make new ones.
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>>6040548
That said, there are some Chinese manufacturers that seem to care about quality.

Pic related, flyhawk 1/700 raft vs. a Trumpeter 1/700 raft from 2007.

I'm working on the Trumpeter kit right now, but there's so much work to get it in good shape. Also, the shitty White Ensign Models photo etch set I got to spice it up is pretty terrible, and has the worst set of instructions I've ever seen. None of the photo etch is even numbered and it's incredibly fragile due to how thin it is.

>>6040557
Yeah, Meng is another quality Chinese manufacturer (or are they in HK?)

Too bad almost all the other Chinese manufacturers cut corners, or pump out inaccurate kits. Trumpeter and Hobby Boss DO have some good kits, but you have to search through a pile of rubbish to find them. For example, they have these incredible 1/200 scale ships, and just recently released a massive 1/48 U-boat (Seriously look this shit up, it's god damn impressive).

Also, aren't Hobby Boss / Trumpeter basically the same company?
>>
>>6040566
Based in China, but also have a HK office.

Trumpeter and HobbyBoss are the same company.
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Another comparison, the amount of detail Flyhawk squeezed out into tiny 1/700 pieces is insane. Best molds I've seen in this scale.

>>6040572
Thought as much. Built kits from both of them and their instructions are identical.
>>
>>6040566
Those are some impressive details there.
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I'm really itching to get into modelling, but I wanted to start off with what interests me personally which is architecture; but I can't really find any good models browsing around on amazon, just overpriced lego crap and stuff made of matches.

Does nobody produce stuff like cutaways and sections of buildings? (pic related). Excuse the ignorance.

Other than that, I'm also looking at all these war machines and vehicles and I don't know how not to get in over my head or where to start when I'm not interested in any (from a perspective of historical/mechanical appreciation).

Any direction would be appreciated, especially towards finding architectural scale models (doing your own just isn't the same).
>>
>>6040576
Bronco makes some pretty insane detail too.
So many people cry in their reviews about their parts being too small.
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Now gluing all the small parts on top. It will be a pain to mask it later, but that's modern Russian vehicles
>>6040710
Afaik the only ones that do complete or almost complete (being the second the most common) buildings are miniart and verlinden (in 1:35). But also check other diorama accessories brands as there will be some buildings from others that I didn't list.
But now the bad news:
The architectural side of modeling is 98% done from scratch, either for dioramas or at profesional level.
If you don't care about the subjects like afvs, ships, planes, cars, motorbikes, mechas or figures why the fuck did you even think about wasting time and money on it?
You're shit out of luck in what you're looking for, your best bet is either 3D printing from cad models done by "you" or learn to scratchbuild.
My advice is to either be friends with some architect or interior designer and borrow their CAD file, save it in .stl (not sure how to do it in autocad as buildings aren't usually done as a whole, you will have it easier with some interior designer if they work with rhino or something like that that has 3D volumes) and 3D print it (this whole thing is rather expensive and bothersome). Or just buy some book about modeling dioramas and stuff like that and learn to do the architectural side of that.
I think the best you can do is do them yourself
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>>6040754
And the priming-reverse preshading
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>>6040799
Whats the base color?
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>>6040754
I'm a young wee lad that just started his architectural degree. I guess shit out of luck is accurate; I'm only learning CAD way later. I still want to build something because it's just plain fun.

What's the brand with the best price to quality ratio? I've seen in the OP that tamiya is pretty good. And more importantly, what brands should I avoid at all costs?

I'm looking for modern cars (80s and onward).
>>
Im really interested in buying an airbrush setup sometime in the future. brushing works fine for small parts but always comes out uneven on larger areas so I've been sticking with 1/72 to minimize that

Is it worth saving up the $300+ for a high end compressor and gun. I hear anything less is a clog-fest but i have very limited moneys

also, what kind of ventilation is typical? a fan box around a turntable that's sucks out all the fumes and overspray, or just a respirator so I'm fine but i piss of my wife for stinking up the apartment.

thanks
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>>6041098

Get a badger patriot online for 80 bucks. Get a compressor for 70. Its not that expensive.

I also airbrushed for months using a harbor freight brush and compressor and got decent results. I wouldnt throw out that option either for practicing. Pic related, done with HF tools
>>
>>6041098
Use a respirator regardless what setup or paint you use.
>>
>>6041081
Not a lot of options for modern cars. Tamiya and Aoshima make good kits, but few have engines. I'd avoid AMT kits.
>>
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>>6035862
Do any of you guys play with your models? I've been into aircraft since I was a kid and even now I ogle a model, no matter what size, everywhere I see one. I know plastic kits aren't meant to be played with, but god damn, the detail on them makes it hard to resist.

What are some, prebuilt or otherwise, options that are actually sturdy enough to be played with while also detailed unlike shitty die cast models?

Pic kinda related; would play the fuck outta this.
>>
>>6041024
I'm going to paint the base color in a.mig-083 xb518 Russian post war green and then do a variation scheme based on the color profile examples of the box of the paints. I'm not really sure I will be able to pull of a b/w technique but I'll try at least on the turret
>>6041081
On the bright side doing them yourself might be an excellent stylistic and spatial excercise. If you want to start easy use foam-board (not sure if that's how it's called in English, but I'm sure you have to know what is it) and then detail it with cutting cork sheets and stuff like that.
As for cars I would say tamiya, hasegawa and aoshima, but I'm not a scale car guy so I can't say really. Revell also makes cars and they could be cheaper and better to practice
>>6041647
With "Play with it" you mean as a wargaming fig or as a toy?
If it's like a toy you said it all yourself, only diecast will resist the abuse. What you ask for doesn't exist. You can "play" with them if you are extremely careful I suppose. Or maybe buy the R/C ones that are meant to be play with?
>>
>>6041647
When i was a child i had tons of 1/72 planes and tanks and played with them together with 1/72 army men, diecast toy cars and a toy train set.. Some pieces like propellers break more easily than others but overall playing with them is fine.
>>
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A cool little cruiser i got a couple of months ago.
Rigging was done with spare parts and it's far from perfect but good enough until (if ever) i get the tamiya rigging material.
Painting was done totally by brush and it's pretty accurate and homogeneous, though i'd like to buy a compressor but i have no experience.
>>
>>6041647
No, I don't have Autism.
>>
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>>6041790
>When i was a child i had tons of 1/72 planes and tanks and played with them together with 1/72 army men
Are you me?
>>6041810
Aww yeah, we need more ships in this thread. Really nice Prinz Eugen, what kit is it? Trumpeters? I've been thinking abut building a Prinz of my own but I'm pretty deep in the IJN-swamp right now.
>>
>>6041830
It's the Trumpeter in 1/700, 1942 operation Cerberus version, though i opted for the May 1941 camouflage.
>>
>>6041781
Well, I mostly just pick them up and fly them around. With plastic model kits, I suppose I'll tire out eventually due to the size and care required and just do with looking at them.

Are there models available that you just buy and display? I remember my dad, who was in the air force, got a Eurofighter Typhoon model that was extremely well made, about 1/72 scale, and had a canopy made of glass.

>>6041790
I mostly just had a bunch of 1/100 scale die cast planes and made out ground based targets for them myself. And I'd often take them outside and pretend large rocks or mounds of sand were mountains and fly over those.

I can't believe there are no good, detailed, scale models made of metal with retractable wheels. R/C ones are way too big and expensive.

>>6041811
>No, I don't have fun.
ftfy
>>
>>6041844
There are a couple of japanese companies doing RC tanks in 1/35 and 1/48. Not overly detailed though.

I think early Tamiya 1/35 tanks also had their lower hulls designed in a way that you could fit in a little electric motor.

The "problem" is just that kids usually don't care about details and adults either have the money to buy the huge and awesome 1:16 rc tanks or they don't care about "playing" and build their kits for the shelf anyway.
>>
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>>6041081
Styrofoam? I probably have styrofoam in every orifice of my body. I just wanted something ready-made of a recognizable edifice because I've got enough self-made modelling going as it is lol.

Revell looks like the walmart of model kits? Some of their products aren't that appealing. Amazon barely ships to Portugal, which doesn't help. I was basically ready to order a Toyota Supra kit but alas it doesn't ship here. Any other site suggestions? Maybe I didn't dig into the OP enough... I could also visit a retailer but I get a feeling I'd get ripped off because modelling stores are not really profitable and need some upscaled pricing to stay afloat (could just be misjudging but that's my experience).

Man, I wanted that Supra.
>>
>Bronco releases new, early P-40s
>Serious accuracy issues

>Airfix releases new, early P-40s
>Serious accuracy issues

FFS! Someone please make accurate P-40B/Cs in 1/48! Looking at you Tamiya, GWH, Meng, etc.
>>
>>6041865
I quoted myself like a retard, I meant
>>6041781
but yeah I have some styrofoam modeling going on for class already
>>
>>6041865
Portugal? Is there no ebay or amazon you could order from?

Thats the car from your pic:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/24123-TAMIYA-TOYOTA-SUPRA-1-24th-PLASTIC-KIT-ASSEMBLY-KIT-1-24-CAR-NEW-IN-BOX-/302148300459?hash=item4659712eab:g:0CAAAOSwImRYOCQK

22,70€ and free shipping all across the EU.
>>
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>>6041846
>kids usually don't care about details
Fuck that, I did. Do kids usually care about airplane toys though? I only had 1 friend who was into them as much as I was.

Found pic related on aliexpress for $30. Looks pretty fucking good desu. Might get it.
>>
>>6041883
once I select "ship to portugal" on amazon it cuts down the results to basically a few hundred (of which many are just plain tat). I didn't check ebay though. Aren't there any other sites I could look into? Pure modelling sites or something.
>>
Tamiya Supra
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/9582.html
>>
>>6041887
With Vallejo, AK and Mig being from Spain i would expect there to be at least one large model store with an online shop somewhere in spain. That would be kinda near you so the shipping costs should be reasonable.

>http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/Sprache/en/Englisch.htm

Thats a german store but they ship within europe. German post is kinda expensive though. They are (for the reason you described above i guess) more expensive than others on ebay but usually have a large inventory.

Sockelshop.de is another very popular german modeler online shop.
>>
>>6041890
not sure how to navigate that site, it shows "ship to romania" and I dunno how to alter it but I'll mess with it later
>>6041891
awesome, thanks. I'll have to give them a good look when I can sit down again later. Maybe I'll find other cars I haven't spotted kits for yet.
>>
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>>6041810
Nice Prinz Eugen, I got the exact same model as you in anticipation for the figma and I was wondering how I would paint that camo

Any issues with the kit?
>>
>>6041865
>Revell looks like the walmart of model kits?

They seem to be a bit varied.

Overall impression I've gotten is that their aircraft will often be acceptable, their simple star wars kits are the pits, stay the hell away form their ships, and their 1/72 ground vehicles are good. But it probably varies a lot on a kit by kit basis, and if there's somethign specific you want to buy it's also always a question of whether you have any choice.

>>6041872
Taking a quick look at Battle of Britain-period spitfires in 1/72 a while back and consensus in the thread I found was that the best overall shape was to be found in an ancient Airfix model kit, the raised panel lines just being somethign you had to deal with.

God dammit.
>>
>>6041916
Their own stuff is hit or miss. Some Revell kits are generally pretty weak, other kits are nice.

They rebox alot too so make sure to check reviews beforehand to see if its actually some older Matchbox or Italeri kit you are buying or maybe even something originally made by Dragon.
>>
>>6041916
I have a hard time believing airfix was ever the best at anything
>>
>>6041896
Nope, the kit is very accurate for the scale and pieces stick together very well.
I had some issues assembling the main mast which construction required to insert the fragile antenna through various platforms, and spherical AA directors were hard to detach from the moldings without breaking stuff.
Other than that, no complaints.

As you can see i mounted the turret AA platforms even though she didn't have them during the period she escorted Bismarck, first cause it adds character and second cause turrets already had holes to keep them in place (the kit is set in Op. Cerberus).
>>
>>6042576
Sadly part of the hull came in horribly bent at the tip, so I gotta fix it somehow before I start on the kit(ie never)
>>
Guys the Star Wars kits are being made officially available in the u.s.

http://hiphopzilla.com/view/post:2794000/Bluefin-to-Distribute-Bandai-Star-Wars-Models
>>
Bandai is going to start selling star wars kits in the US under a different name. Just released today.

Unfortunately I have all the Bandai I want.
>>
>>6043817
>>6043814
Hivemind
>>
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>>6039011
that is the cutest thing
>>
Thread's been kinda slow lately. I'm busy with college so I can't post but when I'm done I'll probably start a 1/35 Meng Mk.A Whippet.
>>
>>6044040
Sick as hell, so building has ground to a halt.

Picked up Meng Gepard, Leopard 2A4, and Pz 2000; all on sale. Still waiting on detail sets for them from HE.
>>
>>6044050
Nice. Picked up the Leopard 2A4 as well and Auf 1 TA
>>
>>6044061
I want to build multiple A4s in various paint schemes. My first one will probably be Finnish.
>>
>>6044070
Aww sheit. My man. I was planning on building the Finnish one as well. Snagged so Echelon decals for European Leopards.
>>
>>6044079
Me too. I also have the AFV Club tracks. I had bought them for the HB one, but that didn't turn out too well....
>>
>>6044083
I have a Hobbyboss Strv. 122 in my stash and some aftermarket for it. Got it cheap from my LHS because it didn't have tracks so I bought Bronco ones. Man that kit's gonna take some work to make it look decent. Basically I'll have to remove most of the surface detail and scratch build it.
I saw this blue stuff from greenstuffworld that you can make molds out off and then make parts from 2 part epoxy. I'll probably try to copy the filter intakes from the Meng kit and put them on the Hobbyboss kit.
Also I will probably replace the bolts with resin ones because the kit ones are just blons of plastic.
>>
>>6044111
I ordered the Orange Hobby barrel and Voyager PE set for the 2A4.
>>
>>6044175
I ordered the RB model barrel and Eureka XXL tow cables. When are you gonna start your build?
Did you buy the basic PE set? When I build my 2A4 I'll buy the basic set and the sidecskirts. But I'll built the Strv. 122 first.
>>
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Meng ft17 arrived today. First time doing a full interior and I'm a little overwhelmed
>>
>>6044183
Probably not any time soon. I assume it's the basic set. They only make it and the side skirts.
>>
>>6044203
I have so many tanks with partial or full interiors. I want to pick up a Meng King Tiger with interior.
>>
>>6044203
This will help. Full build review.
http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/meng/ts008.html
>>
>>6043817
Not a different name. Bluefin is the same guys who import half of the jp things /toy/ buys
>>
>>6044203
Currently working on the track system and its one of the worst designed layout ive ever seen. Apprxoimately 20 parts over 5 assemblies go together without any glue points. All pins and sockets are super shallow so it falls apart immediately.
>>
>>6044377
>Babby's first individual link tracks
>>6044220
>>
>>6044387
Not the tracks. I'm not sure the terminology but its the wheel assembly. My mistake
>>
>>6041865
Hey Anon,
here is hobby store from Spain.

http://www.aeronautiko.com/index.php
>>
>>6035862
What type of glue does everyone here use?
>>
>>6046204
Tamiya Regular Cement and Tamiya Ultra Thin Cement
>>
>>6046204
Revell contacta professional
>>
>>6046204
Tamiya extra thin and Revell Contacta professional
>>
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Post stuff you're working on currently
>>
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>>6046395
Just finished my first kit. Turned out horribly. Rushed it. Had no paint or sandpaper.

I just bought a bunch of supplies hopefully my next tamiya car kit turns out way better.
>>
>>6046395
>>6046450
Didn't know this was a cringe thread.
>>
>>6046453
what's wrong with that F15?
>>
>>6046488
He didnt make it. The only good thins are ones he makes because he's a totes pro.
>>
>>6046453
Explain the issues if your going critique
>>
>>6046204
Tamiya Extra thin. It works for everything, regular cements are just too thick for my tastes.

Cyanoadhesives for everything else, like Resin and Photo etch.

>>6046395
Looks good, is this from Ace Combat zero? Looks like it to me.
>>
>>6046488
>>6046513
>>6046515
Gaypla shitposters
>>6046456
>>
>>6046553
>>6046453
Give me a fucking break its my first model it took me 3 hours. I thought people on the website were my friends.
>>
Anyone know any companies that make model car paint matches besides MCW?
>>
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New project (for now).
>>
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>>6046667
All the engine, radiator, etc. parts are cleaned up and ready for paint. Still waiting on the engine to dry before I sand it.
>>
>>6046543
Yup, gonna make Pixy's F-15C to match it.
Can't find the actual licensed kits anywhere so I need to print my own decals ;_;
>>
>>6046796
Haswgawa does Ace Combat
>>
>>6046865
I'm aware, yes, but I can't find those where I live and last I checked, they were being sold online for close to 80USD, so I'd rather do the paintwork and everything myself.
>>
>>6046987
How do you plan on making decals? Printing waterslides?
>>
>>6046654
You said it was horrible
You said you rushed it
You said you were ill prepared
You said you were unsatisfied with it

So when someone else agrees with you, you go sperg mode and get personally offended?

Gee, and I thought people on the internet werent narcissists.
>>
>>6046654
Reddit might be a more suitable place if you want hugs and safe spaces
>>
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>>6046654
They actually are. Friends do critique each others from time to time though.
>>
>>6047044
Yeah, there's a print shop that does that sort of thing so I'm planning on trying them.
If that doesn't work, I'm pretty sure my friend has a few spare blank sheets lying around.
>>
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>>6047057
congrats homo
>>
>>6046654
Holy shit

Also 3 hours is fucking nothing.
>>
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>>6041865
>>6041879
Man I'm from Spain, you should have said you were from Portugal earlier. I meant pic related, but if you don’t want DIY check diorama accessories and see if you get lucky.
As for the shops here's a list:
>From Spain
Jordi Rubio (My LHS, a good place overall and the best in bcn)
http://jordirubio.com/es/
Guinea Hobbies (I've only ordered from them once but it was fast and helpful their customer service and the whole operation)
http://www.hobbiesguinea.es/es/
Carmina Hobbys
http://www.carminahobbys.com/es/
AFAIK online only stores:
e-minis (if you want minifigures and fantasy stuff here you can find a fuck ton)
http://www.e-minis.net/
Robotines (they have a lot of stuff, but specially gundams and mak stuff that are harder to find on other shops here)
http://www.robotines.com/es/robotines
Ammo of Mig Jimenez (military kits, all that sweet paints and weathering stuff, free shipping to Spain and Portugal on orders bigger than 25€)
http://www.migjimenez.com/es/
Ak Interactive (paints and weathering products. I personally hate them but feel free everyone to buy from them obviously, I think they also sell some Meng kits and some packs of other brands)
http://ak-interactive.com/v2/
Andrea Miniatures (minifigures and paints only)
http://www.andreaeurope.com/es/
>From Europe
Der sockelshop (German, I ordered the Löwe and some stuff from them and didn’t have any problem)
https://www.dersockelshop.de/
Modellbau-koenig (A really big catalogue, but they do some weird thing with the pricing)
http://www.modellbau-koenig.de/
And consider ebay I suppose if you don’t mind the slow shipping
>>
>>6046204
The Revell glue that comes in a glass bottle and a brush applicatior
>>
is there something that can bind metal and resin to plastic

not superglue, because even the "slow-acting" shit lasts like 2 seconds

PVC glue?
>>
>>6047321
Depends on the plastic, but given the thread, I'm guessing normal polystyrene. Hell, strictly speaking the "resin" in our kits is a type of plastic too.

In which case if cyanoacrylate doesn't cut it, the problem probably isn't with the glue.

First, there's always the possibility that you're unreasonably rough with shit. Scale models aren't exactly meant to take abuse.

Another possibility is poor kit engineering, with far too much weight being put on a far too small joint. In this case you might be able to use pinning to reinforce the joint. Or you can go for a two-part epoxy glue, they tend to take bloody ages to cure, but if you can keep everythign in place as it does, you'll usually get an extremely strong joint.

Or it could be that the joint doesn't fir together very well. Gaps, porosity and so on are bad news for any glue, and superglue in particular, because while it adheres extremely well, it is pretty weak in itself, so a thick glue joint will break quite easily (there are "filling" superglues that suffer a bit less). But it certainly matters of other glues too. Get your needle files, sanding papers, and so on and make sure the surfaces fit flush with each other. You might not want quite a mirror finish though, an ever so slight amount of surface texture for the glue to grip can be a good thing.
>>
>>6047321
Make sure to clean resin thoroughly with a degreaser.

CA will work. Buy a good brand like Mercury Adhesives. Use a medium CA to tack it into place and use the eye of the needle cut off to apply thin CA.

Epoxy will also work and provide more strength, but will take time to set.
>>
>>6047321
I use superglue for metal/resin and plastic (if mixed with other material parts) minis all the time and it works fine.

Clean your parts with warm water and a bit of dish-soap before and it will stick.

Also make sure the contact area is flat.
>>
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Has anyone here made the 1/350 independence by Dragon? I'm thinking of getting it for christmas, and the reviews online say it's a fairly good kit, but i'm still on the fence.
>pic related: the box
>>
>>6048132
Actual build reviews or in-box ads?
>>
>>6047321
Not really. One of those for-plastic epoxies is your best bet because it will cure into a semi-rigid (but still fairly hard) resin. Superglue is brittle so if you use it, just be aware it might not hold up to any stress.

The adhesion will be purely mechanical, so what you should do is
>Clean with cleaner (like diluted simple green) to remove grease
>Sand with a medium grit like 800 until the texture is a little rough/dusty to the touch
>clean once more
>glue and let set under pressure (hold it together)
You do this to both objects you'll be gluing.

The sanding is where most of the strength will come from, so make sure you do it thoroughly across the surface area you'll be gluing together. Make sure it's as grease free as possible, try not to touch it after you've cleaned it again.
>>
>>6048157
Do you have to dilute simple green or can it be used right from the tap?
>>
>>6048171
You can use it straight. The spray bottles you get in supermarkets already come diluted. Cheaper to buy concentrated from Auto supply stores.
>>
>>6048171
Why would you want concentrated? It's a waste of money and thought I don't think it will, there's a possibility it could degrade some plastics.
>>
>>6048134
a couple of in box reviews but the only one I actually took seriously was by modelwarships
>>
Better to spray on primer while still on sprue?

Will be brush painting
>>
>>6048356
No, never. Cement only works on plastic, not paint, and mold seams need to be removed.
>>
>>6048356
>Gunpla builders are this retarded
>>
>>6048365
Thanks

>>6048369
I've built a few planes on my own a few years back and that's how I did it, wasn't sure if it was the best way to do it or not.
>>
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>>6048365
Let's say I was painting an engine. Would I have to glue it all together, put it in the engine bay, then brush paint it?
>>
>>6048812
also i only have spray cans of primer and color and testors enamel paint that I would brush on. How would I make this work?

i'm new to building scale models, I have a few tamiya cars arriving soon.

thanks
>>
>>6048812
No, it wouod be nearly impossible to paint in the engine bay.. You can assemble it and paint it or paint the parts and assemble it making sure to scrape any paint from any weld areas.
>>
>>6048198
>It's a waste of money
Unless you got utterly raped on the pricing it should end up cheaper, once you've diluted it down yourself with tap water.

>>6048812
It varies. On one hand, you need to get visible seams glued up, sanded down, possibly filled and so on before you can paint it all. On the other hand there's the issue of reaching shit with the brush. You'll simply have to decide on a case by case basis.

>>6048823
Sometimes you make an assembly out of the things that are to share the same colour, spray those, and glue together. Or you glue together, spray one colour, mask, spray the other. Or you glue together, spray everything, and then hand paint the things that are another colour. Or some mix thereof. Whatever works for you.
>>
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Some progress on my Amatsukaze, basically just the masts left.
>>
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>>6046395
Just finished the chipping colors underlayer, I tried to make a B&W technique on the turret but I wasn't really happy as I'm not that good to pull it off (although I've only seen it well done in magazines) so I opted to make a chipping fluid base. The problem is that once I paint the base green the other camouflage colors will not be chipped I fear. Until I try I won't know anyway
>>6046450
Early 00s and late 90s subarus wrx are my favorite cars, why didn't you put the decals tho?
>>6047128
I really dig that camo scheme, its historical/from the kit or done by you? Also it's the italeri, dragon or tamiya one?
Can't say much more as the pic is quite blurry when I zoom in but the yellow and green bands seems thicker
>>6049323
That's a really cute little ship, are you going to put rails or water base also?
>>
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Testing out cheap ebay lightbox
>>
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>>6049441
Here is new pic of the Puma.
Its 1/48 by Italeri. Surprisingly good kit actually. (Tamiya sells the same kit, but i don't know which company originally did it and which of the just licensed it)

The camo is just some random german 3 tone. I wasn't trying to recreate an actual vehicle.
>>
>>6049501
>please do not post gore
>>
>>6049471
Is it the one that selling around 7-10 USD in ebay? How's good it is?
>>
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Filling interior gaps. Im bad at puttying.
>>
>>6051007
What putty are you using?
>>
>>6051010
looks like squadron white
>>
>>6051127
>>6051010
Yea squadron white. No matter what I do it always seems to have a grainy texture ont it.
>>
>>6051233
Because it's awful putty. Use Tamiya white putty.
>>
>>6051249
Good to know
>>
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>>6049441
Base amig083 and chipping. I'm not sure of what is aluminum and what is steel in the t-90ms so I've guessed a bit in some parts. Also I was watching damage and weathering in afvs of the Crimea war and still don't know if the kontakt 5 outher layer is oxidable or not as I've seen it shinny as fuck and reddish. If some anon can point it out with hard evidence I will be really grateful. Now gluing the small pieces and 3 more colors to go
>>
>>6051276
Looking sweet. What do you use for chipping?
>>
>>6051303
For this layer I used amig 2011 "heavy chipping effects" wich is like you can see more agressive than scratching fluids. The process is:
>Base color fro the chipping >>6049441
>then a layer of chipping fluid and waiting for it to be dry to the touch
>Airbrush the base color
>Wait till its dry
>soak a brush with water and go to town
>>
>>6051317
That's odd; I used that a while back and my results were massively different to yours. How thin are your chipping fluid and paint coats?
>>
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>>6051426
Pic related if you can see something is a layer of chipping fluid left to dry, so more or less having all the surfaces you want to chip humid or full of "drops" that with time get together and wet it all. Applied with an airbrush and never ever thin chipping fluids, if some is left unused throw it back to the bottle without problem. And the paint layer is two medium-thin without thinner
>>
>>6051456
Not so different to mine, then. I just found that the paint peeled back in a rolled layer, rather than brushing away like chips. I tried it with quite a thin coat, as well, and had the same result.
>>
>>6051478
That's weird, maybe the chiiping fluid wasn't "dry" enough, or maybe you need to dip and clean the brush while doing it in short strokes so you dont tear it off (which is a bit strange fo it to happen)
>>
Can somebody explain to me when and where you should use putty?
>>
>>6051554
Primarily when there's a hole, gap or unevenness you need to fill in.

Some also use it to add texture to surfaces, and sometimes to sculpt details, items or people from scratch.
>>
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>>6051574
Thanks

Would you say it's an essential tool to a modeler?
>>
>>6051655

Kinda. You can assemble your kits without it, no problem. But some will just look bad because there are gaps because the molds are old etc.
Having it makes your life alot easier.
>>
>>6051655
Not every kit demands it, but sooner or later you'll need it.
>>
www dot twitch dot tv/eilelwen

A guy building a HE 111 on twitch if you are interested in something like that.
>>
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>>6051655
imagine grabbing the finished kit and throwing it against a wall
>>
>>6051852
Gonna need a source on that pic, anon.
>>
>>6051852
Nvm I got it
>>
>>6051655
Thats a really cool build.
>>
>>6051852
>>6051963
You both realize that is from a real golf mk2 right?
>>
Will blutack pull off paint?
>>
>>6052063
In some situations it will.

Use silly putty instead
>>
>>6052063
Never use blutack, it will stain paint.
>>
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>Railings bend out of shape
>Rigging is hard
>Every little dust in paint surface will show up tenfold.
>Weathering can be overdone

Why do I even build ships? I do like ships but making them nice is hard.
It is still salvageable, but still.
>>
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Well atleast the boatslut turned out nice, eventhough I lost the anchor to her hair.
>>
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Still needs some details, like windows painted, and a matte or satin coat, havent decided yet.
>>
>>6052567
Oh man that looks good
>>
>>6052567
>Why do I even build ships?
>>6052608
>>
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>>6049441
This ship is a cheap test build so I won't use any PE parts on it even if I'm a little tempted to.
>>6052567
>More cute ships
Yes please.
I really like the weathering, is everything brush painted? What kit is it? Now I miss my 1/350 Yukikaze.
>>
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>>6052567
Personally I hated almost every minute of building a 1/700 ship. Probably wont do it again
>>
>>6052647
Plamax 1/350 Shimakaze & 1/20 Shimakaze, with some generic aftermarket PE railings, main colors are airbrushed Tamiya paints, details with handbrush using Tamiya, Vallejo. Weathering with some generic oil paints.

A nice kit with nice details. I just need to get a lil bit better and careful when building boats
>>
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Playing around while some pieces dry I found this combination quite interesting, like a rushed to the front of ww2 feel. Maybe I'll do it on another t-90 next year
>>6052567
Noice ship and the gril too, personally I like rust buckets but maybe add some salt streaking (white oils will do) to give it more live and color variety to the side of the hull. Also if you already weathered don't put a coat of varnish, it will all your efforts and make it look like a Matt or satin blob
>>
>>6052803
>T-90
>weathered to hell
>>
>>6052811
And I ain't even started lad. I'm going to do a quite beaten one in a pre-ww3 shenanigan conflict between the Russians and the Chinese in either Nepal-Tibet or somewhere else.
The only thing that buggers me about the chipping is that I’m still not 100% sure of what is steel, aluminum or other alloys so I took a bit of a wild guess based in some pics.
>>
>>6052811
I wouldn't be surprised if one of Assads T-90s would look like that in a couple of month.
>>
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>>6052869
Modern paint doesn't chip like that.
>>
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>>6052876
It chips, but you need to treat them like shit (which it would be really strange for a t-90 it’s true). Here you have some pics of my references so you can see that I’m not just talking shit
>>
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>>6052906
>>
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>>6052909
I had another of the fuel tanks but i can`t fucking find it
>>
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>>6052803
>what if
>>
Who makes the best 1/72 ww2 soldiers?
I'm planning to make some wargame pieces and I want them to be proportioned like human beings.
>>
>>6052982
http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Index.aspx

my tip is caesar.
>>
>>6052988
Thanks a bunch, mate.
>>
Will the HB 1/72 P-61C include a fucking turret?
My baby deserves a kit that does her justice unlike that 1/48 abortion.
>>
>>6038144
That snow is just gorgeous.
>>
>>6040710
You might be happier learning the miniature building techniques and doing the entire thing from scratch, especially for a cut away diorama. Post pics if you do!
>>
How much weathering is too much weathering?
>>
>>6053505
Highly doubt it. Will just be a scale down of the shitty 48 one.
>>
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finished mounting and prepwork. The worst part about full interio tanks is that all the painting must be done before assembly. These will all be interior walls/doors
>>
>>6053672
That's subjective, some like factory new, others like a scratch and others like when it looks like a 20 year veteran's vehicle
>>
Non Gundam GB running now till Feb 1st or Mar 1st
>>6053166
>>
>>6052960
What's wrong with what if subjects? Personally I have more fun with them and that's why I usually do them, especially if it's something that I like but didn't see action (yet)
>>
>>6053810
This board does a non gunpla groupbuild literally every day
>>
>>6054413
>board
>>
>>6054413
literally retarded
>>
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>>6054321
NOT ACCURATE
>>
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>>6052960
>>6054504
>>
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>>6054514
>fun
>>
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>Revyiew of X
>by literallywho_i<3cockanon69

>+the box art is very pretty
>+the box is cardboard
>+the box has letters on it
>+the box is 10.5285 ± 0.00002 mm long
>+sprus com wrappd in plastic.
>+yea the parts llok nice i gues i don't know a single thing abt this vehicle LOL, fuk u

>9.5/10

>Review sample provied by teh manufcturor.
>>
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>>6054524
For your own triggering pleasure :^)
>>
>>6054579
>767 review
>I give it a 9/11
>>
>>6054579
All I want are for companies to send me free shit
>>
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What are the hardest models to build, assuming they're the same scale? Airplanes, cars, ships, or tanks/armored vehicles? I'd think ships cause of the larger size and more parts, but I doubt there're any that are complex enough. I watched my brother build the USS Kitty Hawk as a kid and it was a pretty simple model.
>>
>>6054874
Everything is as complex as one can make it really. But for raw work load in the same scale, as you said, it would be ships for they massive size compared to a plane or a car
>>
>>6054882
But are there any ship kits that are that complex?
>>
>>6054887
what scale are you talking about?
>>
>>6054890
Any scale, as long as its a kit you can buy and build and not some unique piece.
>>
>>6054874
Apples to oranges to bananas
Not a comparison you can make
>>
>>6054900
How so? Can't they be compared just in terms of their complexity? How does that differ from model to model?

Also, I'm not talking about weathering and any other modifications that you can add on your on. Just out of the box, most vanilla builds.
>>
>>6053640
Thanks! It's Secret Weapon's crushed glass and water effects, it's so easy to use, and such a nice effect. I think I went a bit over-board with it because I was so excited to use it for the first time, I concealed a lot of the cobblestones.
>>
>>6054894
>>6054912
Despite the retard tier of your question, just look for the ones with more pieces and photo etch and that's it
>>
>>6054874
Ships in my opinion.
>>
>>6054874
Armor
>>
What sites do you guys use for historical color schemes?
I'm Specifically looking for a Rhodesian Vampire pilot since I have no idea what color the suit and helmet are supposed to be.
>>
>>6055004
go to /tg/, search for "/hwg/" in the catalog. There is a huge number of Osprey pdfs in the OP. There should be a couple about Rhodesia.
>>
>>6054874
As someone who has build everything, ships by far are the most complicated things to build, paint and weather. They can have thousands more parts than most normal kits, and you have to approach painting in a very different manner compared to armor / aircraft. Most of the time you can't glue most things together until you have different sections painted and weathered, due to decks having a different color than the rest of the ship, and wooden decks as well. Because they're in such a smaller scale, weathering tends to be more complex and harder to achieve realistic results.

You often have to work with a lot more photo etch as well, if you want the model to be detailed at all since most ship kits don't even come with basic rails, and injection mold technology in smaller scales is a lot harder to do, especially in 1/700 scale where things like a quad bofors are just a few mm wide.

Also, ships are best when you do some sort of ocean scene or a dock / drydock scene, which requires even more work and a lot of extra expenses like photo etch dock cranes, resin tugboats and other stuff that makes a diorama.

Then there's rigging which is also a pain in the ass to do properly, especially on older warships that have a lot more rigging.

Armor is by far the simplest, which is why I mostly stick to them. Most builds you can assemble everything at once and then start painting. Ships just take too fucking long to build for the most part, I tend to get distracted / bored with building them halfway through.
>>
>>6054948
if you chose dragon smart kits
>>
>>6055297
Lol no, Dragon kits are easy.
>>
>>6054738
If what you did in the front of the tank was done everywhere instead of the scratches and chips it would look better.
>>
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Gettin some work done finally
>>
>>6054738
The chipping is way out of scale, it kind of looks like a tiny metal tank that has been handled too much.
>>
>>6055401
>not removing ejector pin marks
>>
>>6055496
They'll be covered by the floor of the interior and the engine
>>
>>6052988
Do you know how to straighten the barrels of the rifles in 1/72 figure kits
>>
>>6054738
Only the fuel tanks and storage boxes are silver, buddo
>>
Nobody reads what I wrote or what
>>6055389
The front chipping was done with the same fluid as the turret, but the color of the metal isn't shinny aluminum or (my light variation of) red primer so it looks more tame as it's a zone that I knew that it will be green no matter what I paint later as is a pita to mask that area well
>>6055415
I don't know if out of scale is what it looks the chipping like but It certainly does look like a small die cast tank after some years of playing with it, but it has a reason to be so aggressively chipped and it's because three more layers of camouflage will be on top so what you see now is "the maximum chipping" that works as the base. Most of it will be covered but I need to be able to have something under it when I chip the newer layers, I hope you get what I mean as it was a bit awkwardly worded.
>>6056241
I asked twice if some anon could show me a fucking pic of the real color of the kontak 5 era blocks, as the references I've found are mostly new and the ones that has some chipping is very small and shiny on the borders, but I can't really say.
The hull armor blocks I've seen it in red primer or something darker but not the turret ones.
As for the turret side boxes are an aluminum sheet covering more era blocks so that stays like that.
I don't care about re painting the scratches with a brush as that's easy and quick but I gonna need something more than a text comment, prove me wrong and I'll be thankful for your help anon
>>
>>6056124
I have heard good things about spraying the minis with stuff like this:
http://www.foliatec.com/shop/en/spray-film/spray-film/37/spray-film-transparent-400-ml

It will make them more sturdy and prevent bending. (I'm not really into 1:72 minis though).
>>
>>6056124
I'd try warming the barrel with hot water and then bending it to about where I'd want it.

Haven't tried though.
>>
>>6056489
It works with resin if you put it into cold water right after, but i think that soft plastic is not as easy shapeable.

Some companies do hard plastic minis in 1/72 though. (Plastic soldier company for example).

There are some companies with metal minis as well. Elhiem to name one.
>>
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I might work on this.
Voyager PE set
LionMarc 20mm KwK 30 barrel
PanzerArt Wheels
>>
>>6056666
checked
>>
>>6056672
Opportunity missed
Czeched
>>
>>6056666
>AFV Club

RIP your patience, it's an interesting vehicle though.

>>6056677
I've never seen a 38(t) painted like that, almost looks like a Japanese tank with those colors.
>>
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>>6056694
I've built worse. I also already finished building their Flakvierling 38 (>>6037902), Churchill, and a couple of others.


It's the original Czech/Slovak tri-color paint scheme used before WWII, though, the exact colors aren't known and may have varied.
>>
>>6051893
i don't, wanna share?
>>
Am I the only one to feel grossly inadequate during the build but to almost always have good end results?
>>
>>6056703
early model makes me want to grab my weeb Katana and comit ritual sepuku
>>
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>>6056666
Not the best picture, but it illustrates my points. AFV Club molding leaves a lot to be desired. Some of the gates are way larger than they need to be. Some parts have damage resulting from ejector pin push (as shown by the white spot in the middle.) There is also some flash to deal with.

Painting vinyl is the only time I'll use Vallejo primer. However, I won't be using the vinyl tires.
>>
>>6055304
>dragon kits are easy

Because you have all the time to yourself

I have a dragon geschutzwagen sig 33 ausf L and it's small parts is a big concern even though I haven't started building it
>>
>>6054579
Holy shit this is too accurate
>>
>>6057945
>>6055304
The Panzer IV I built didn't bother me with an abundance of minuscule bits, the instructions did try to screw me over a few times though.
>>
>>6057945
I have the Grille H and M with Griffon Model detail sets.
>>
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Gonna start working on this
>>
Today, Sprue Bros have the Meng Me 410A-1 and Leopard 2A7 on sale for around $35.

https://store.spruebrothers.com/dealoftheday.asp
>>
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>>6058498
Nice. Im glad WW1 stuff is getting more popular lately.
>>
Can I spray alclad aluminum over an acrylic base or will it eat through?

Lacquers dry so fast I never know
>>
>>6059480
The solvents in the acrylics should struggle with acrylics. But test on some scrap before you go live.
>>
>>6059480
No, it needs to be sprayed over enamel or lacquer. It will eat acrylic.
>>
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Getting more pieces ready, and still a ton more to prime and paint the base color. Looks kinda ugly now, also if there's some anon who speaks Nepalese (which I highly doubt) I need to translate "airborne" as all the online resources I tried give me shit without sense
>>6056666
>>6057653
>Checked
I prime all my kits with Vallejo primers but one of the things where I wouldn't use specifically it would be rubbery stuff or resin as it will peel off. I did my btr wheels with it and nothing happened but if I messed with them it felt like it would peel off without a doubt, so if you are already priming with other stuff more foolproof stick to it on the wheels at least. A lot of whinny bitches blame the primer for their poor job, and while Vallejo acrylic primer ain't a tough base, it all comes down of how each one work and handle the kit while working so have that in mind when using acrylic primers
>>6058498
>>6058837
I personally blame battlefield 1.
Jokes aside, it's nice to have more kits that aren't ww2, for older or more modern stuff that was only in resin kits before this is a golden age
>>6059480
I'm not sure as I've only used alclad twice and on top of their smooth bleach primer (lacquer). Try on a scrap piece or just varnish and work on top?
>>
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>>6060376
>Battlefield 1
>>
>>6060376
I only use Vallejo primer on vinyl where it actually has decent adhesion. Can't use lacquers or enamels on vinyl. I don't use Vallejo primer on plastic. Ever.
>>
>>6059480
I spray Alclad over Tamiya X-1, so yes it can be sprayed over acrylics. Alclad is an incredibly thin layer of paint, and its practically dry the moment it hits the surface, so I wouldn't worry about it over acrylics. Just make sure the acrylic is a gloss for best results.
>>
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>>6060398
>I only use Vallejo primer on vinyl where it actually has decent adhesion.
>Can't use lacquers or enamels on vinyl.
>I don't use Vallejo primer on plastic. Ever.
What the actual fuck man, when I didn't have an airbrush I always primed with tamiya primer can (lacquer ?) all day everyday over everything and never had a problem with any material. As for the vinyl adhesión I show you pic related (the small black marks to the low right) from just pinching the tire. And Vallejo primer is only good on plastic desu, on PE, vinyl and resin it peels easy if you are not careful.
Do whatever you want obviously, I just wanted to warn you and others of its downsides, but what you said is just the inverse of its normal use
>>
>>6060398
>I don't use Vallejo primer on plastic. Ever.

Why not? It works great
>>
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Alclad primer is king. Vallejo is shit
>>
>>6060430
>Mr. Surfacer is king.
FTFY
>>
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>all these ham hand noobs bashing the best primer (Vallejo)
>>
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>>6060462
>primer
>literally a shitty film that peals off and doesn't bite into plastic
>>
>>6060463
But Primer was a good movie
>>
>>6060462
Lol
>>
>>6060383
>>6060376
Im a gun collector. We all thought the market for WW1 would shoot up in 2014 on the hundred year anniversary. We were off by 2 years.
>>
Just got a newsletter from this ebay store:

http://stores.ebay.de/bestpricemodel

He will give you 50% discount on everything and will accept any price proposal with a fitting price. (so if something costs 10, you suggest 5 and he will accept). Sorry for explaining it so complicated.
>>
>>6060724
Shame it has nothing listed for sale.
>>
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>>6057653
Some progress on the suspension. The kit includes a partial engine.
>>
>>6052567

Try building cars bud, getting dust/fibers in the clear coat is the most infuriating thing ever.
>>
Holy shit Alclad is incredible. First time using lacquers and Im in love.
>>
What Primers do you guys use for modern russian tanks .All my vallejo and mig pigments are for US modern tanks
>>
>>6061058
Mr. Surfacer for everything.
>>
What washes are for Russian tanks
>>
>>6058245
the horror

do you solder your PE or just glue it when it comes to PE to PE connections?
>>
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>>6061245
>gluing PE together
>>
>>6061245
Just CA.
>>
>>6061075
dark brown?
>>
On another, slightly related note - does any of you, gentlemen, possess a digital, ekhem, copy of AK Interactive's FAQ for Aircraft scale modelling? You know, that monster of a book with hefty 50 EUR price tag?
>>
>>6061494
All i ever found in the internet is the MIG FAQ for tanks which happens to be a mediocre scan with some pages missing.
>>
>>6061515
I know, but I really need aircraft FAQ for now
>>
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>It is out

Hot toys, sideshow BTFO!
>>
>>6061538
>Hot toys, sideshow BTFO!
Kidding, right? I won't call it terrible, but those eyes are way off and that's just what I noticed right off the bat. Under further inspection I'm sure there's a lot more to point out as wrong.
>>
>>6061538
Hasnt that been out gor like 2 years
>>
T 90MS with a simple wash
Not to be confused with someone else
>>
>>6061572
Looks cool. Do russians actually use digital camo for their tanks?
>>
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>>6061058
>>6061075
For primer I use Vallejo, but whatever you find useful is ok. Now for the interesting part of the questions:
You can use a wash/pigment labeled "brown for German yellow" in a Syrian t-72 or in a gundam whatever because, while it's true that is a color that's engineered to work with the dubkelgelb and give results 100% of the time, in the end is just a color/pigment.
What you need to have in mind while choosing washes, pigments, streaking effects and stuff related to weathering in general is "where is my afv/plane/ship/robot/car deployed/used?" And then work from that. So if I've understood what you said, is that you have washes and pigments for modern USA afvs? I suppose that those are for Irak/Afghanistan theaters so desertic. Is your tank in the desert or painted in sand? If yes feel free to use what you have (a pic or better description would be better, but as a generic answer is good enough) and if not you need to buy/""""""make""""""" others.
99% of the Russian post ww2 afvs are painted in green so what you need overall is a dark brown like >>6061493 said, and for the pigments buy "Russian earth" which is a very dark brown and some "European earth" which is lighter and depending of the brand more greyish or more brownish, but what matters is having some tone variety that fits the operation theater.
Filters would be nice also, there are for "x vehicles" labeled too but with them you have more liberty, for example you can use a red filter to give your green a final brown hue.
Also check a.mig Kursk soil if you need something like that, is a slightly textured enamel for dust deposits (not the same as washes) and gives a nice contrast to the model if it's based in Russian summer or dry environments
Pic related would solve all your needs in soviet (and overall green) afvs, but they are enamel (unlike Vallejo washes)
>>6061494
>>6061537
50€ for a whole encyclopedia that you want and will teach you stuff you need/want isn't a lot really
>>
>>6061572
Dude I'm >>6060376, is cool to see another MS, it's the tiger model one or the trumpeter?? Also nice digital camo, it's a ton of work to mask it well
>>
>>6061589
Tiger
>>
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>>6061575
Afaik they don't, and the closer thing is the arms expo pattern in pic related (which they also do in grey colors), but the SM is an export tank without a home right now so it can be painted in whatever way pleases the builder
>>6061592
What did you think of the build?
>>
>>6061598
Enjoyed it allot didn't have any problems during the build all the parts went in together . The Tiger T90MS is way superior than the Trumpeter kit tho FYI
>>
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>>6061598
BTW I based my T 90 MS on this guy's build
link here http://www.guildwargamers.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=311374&sid=d18baaef9fd4f6d74173f9f771fff738
>>
>>6060969
Some notes on assembly:
Step 2: Don't attach B33 and B34 yet; you won't be able to fit the floor panel on with the pedals on.
Step 8: Don't attach A17 to A15. Instead attach A17 to the chassis.
>>
>>6061738
Step 9: The ends of A9 and A11 need to be thinned down in order to fit A14. Also, 2 of the A9s are short shots and won't need thinned.
>>
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Only the life boats left before my Amatsukaze-chan is complete. The main mast is pretty clunky but the rest of the parts aren't too bad considering the scale and the price. Would have been fun to have a proper PE set for it though.
>>
>>6058498
Have fun, it's a great kit!
>>
>>6061796
hopefully I can finish mine now since exams are done. and after I get over this sickness.
>>
New thread when?
>>
>>6054742
I guess this one flew over their heads.
>>
>>6061914
No, it was just leddit-tier humor
>>
>>6062123
>leddit-tier
>>
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>>6058498
This where I'm at right now. Pretty good kit, desu. Fun to build
>>
>>6061546
This one is 1/6th
>>
>>6061538
What is it that people can't get the helmet right?
>>
>>6062209
whats wrong with it? I'm not really into SW, but it looks like a typical stormtrooper helmet to me.
>>
>>6061572
Ayyy It turned out pretty good imo. Was a little worried for a bit.
>>
>>6051866
Google brekkist
>>
New thread:
>>6062640
>>6062640
>>6062640
>>
>>6049501

Ugh, dude, get an air brush.
Thread posts: 337
Thread images: 93


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