Scale Model General

I want to build a small diorama/piece of sea for my Yamato but I don't have the time, tools or materials (not to mention the skills) to make a nice one like shipwreck-anon. I'm thinking about just using plaster or similar material to model the water and then try to paint it to make it look like the sea. Anyone know if it's feasible and have some good tips or things to keep in mind?

>>5972959
Vallejeo has some kind of liquid thats look like water once dried.

Sorry for the multitude of questions. Can a 1/700 ship look ok without PE?

>>5972959
Yea it can be done. Paint it blue then do gloss medium over the top to get some texture. Maybe some clear caulk. Check out youtube

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>>5972964
Thanks for the tip, I'll see if the local hobby shop has any in stock.
>>5972967
I guess I'll look for some fitting caulk in case the Vallejeo stuff is out of stock or just too pricey and the gloss isn't enough.

>>5972965
I'd say yes but it depends on your standards. I didn't use any PE for my first 1:700 ships but I'm fairly satisfied with how they turned out, even if there's a lot that could be improved. I only have a shitty picture on my phone for reference though.

>>5972964
>>5973020
>Vallejeo
It's Vallejo, in case you search it and doesn't come up.
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/diorama-effects/family/35
I used their "still water" resin for small puddles in a small diorama and its flawless, but you need to work on thin layers so plan the base with that in mind

>>5973020
Nice. I bought some PE guard rails on ebay that will dress it up a little. Hopefully thatll be nice enough

>>5973146
Seems like the local hobby shop only has the Mediterranean blue in stock and it's roughly 20$ for a bottle but I guess it's the easiest way to get a nice surface.

Trying to get better at painting 1/24 scale cars, and would appreciate a few pointers. Specifically..

- Which is better, acrylic or enamel paints?
- Is there a glue/cement out there which doesn't ruin paint?
- Whats the best method for painting the main body, before or after it's assembled?

>>5973357
From what I know, enamels are better for gloss finishes than acrylics. Also, wouldn't you generally glue before painting?

>>5973384
But I've been spraypainting the bodies of my previous builds. Don't I need to do that before I attach the body to the chassis?

>>5973397
Paint in subsections. The chassis and main body should be painted before you put them together. I think. I havent done a car since I was a kid

I'm thinking of buying a 1/16 tank kit, and making it RC.

Any suggestions on how I should do it? Would I be better off buying separate parts and doing it myself, or I can buy a smaller RC tank and gut it and have everything already but not be able to modify it to fit a smaller tank model.

>>5974707
A 1/16 RC kit isn't an option? I'm not so sure a kit that wasn't meant for motorisation will have all the wheels and tracks actually work.

>>5974707

google heng long tanks, 1/16 scale, 1/10th the cost of tamiya rc tanks, and pretty accurate. Its not impossible to convert a static model into RC, but its beyond most people.

>>5974713
>>5974740

I have 2 Heng Long tanks, but I'd love a Hetzer/38t. They don't make those though, at least not that I'm finding.

Do most model ships come with photoetch? I hate having to buy extra stuff and deal with shipping times.

>>5975243
scalemates.com

go there, look for your ship and check reviews for the kit. There you'll see whats inside.

>>5975243
There are approximately 0 ships on the market that come with "full" photoetch. Even the premium editions often omit deck railings.

That being said, recent kits from Trumpeter, Hobby boss, and Dragon tend to come with at least a little photoetch (Trumpeter usually only one card, dragon significantly more). On the other hand, the waterline series kits (like tamiya, hasegawa, aoshima) and Fujimi pretty much never come with it unless you buy the "premium vesions" which cost twice as much. Usually for a 1/700 scale kit you can expect to pay about 1.5x to 2x as much for a decent set of photoetch and like 3-4x the kit MSRP for total autism comprehensive photoetch sets like 5star models (if you really hate yourself enough to do that).

An alternative is just to get generic sets for a certain ship type- if you like building German battleships you can get a set that has all the parts to the Scharnhorst, Gneisenau, Tirpitz and Bismarck on a single card. You'll have to purchase railings and other generic deck fittings seperately, but the obvious advantage is that you can make multiple kits for a cheaper overall investment than specific sets.

Anyone know of a way of removing excess superglue from plastic models? Received a model on the cheap for a wargame off a friend, and it was built by a mutual acquaintance who seems to think using an entire tube of superglue on a single model is normal. Obviously acetone is the usual choice, but I suspect that'll just eat the plastic.

>>5976285
superglue gets brittle if you put it into the freezer for a few hours. Maybe you can sand it down carefully?

>>5976288
Nah, not an option. It's in really awkward places as it's a warjack for Warmachine, and it's been used in the joints for arms and such. So far I've managed to trim some excess off with a blade, but it's proving difficult to achieve a satisfactory finish on the areas where it's overflowed onto flat surfaces.
I'll try the freezer idea though, thanks.

>>5976291
Put it into the freezer, then carefully "break" the parts apart once the glue becomes brittle.

After that you should be able to remove more of the glue and as a final step you can glue it back together.

>>5976293
With the amount of glue he's used the parts will probably give before the glue, but I'll give it a shot. Worst case scenario, I can dremel it off.

>>5976285
Super Glue remover, you can get it from hardware stores.

Just coat it and leave it for 24 hours. Really easy

>>5975985
>There are approximately 0 ships on the market that come with "full" photoetch. Even the premium editions often omit deck railings.
Wrong.

>>5976285
cheaper super glues tend to loss thier gluing abilities in certain temperatures. try putting your mode linto warm water for a some time, then try to wiggle parts you want to separate. it's not a solid method, but won't hurt take a try.
other, more brutal method, is to dip your mini in DOT3 brake fluid. shit is so aggresive tha can melt down glue(and also paint if mini is still painted) but won't touch plastic in most cases. this method is great for second hand miniatures because it removes all of the crap leaving model untouched. basically you can put miniature with all kinds of shit on it to a jar of this thing, leave it for about 1,5 to 2 hours and take out looking almost like new model. huge downside is that this fluid is really greasy and need to be washed few times in warm soapy water and also some little pools of it can stay in nooks of the model and swim out in least expected moment.
you decide what to do. superglue remover is in my opinion best method but i gave you others.

>>5976296
>>5976293
DEAR GOD IT WORKED. Managed to get it into a few pieces to make it more manageable, I'll try some light prying then if that fails, it's over to chemical solutions.

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Im pretty happy with this

>>5976566
I think it looks really good. I personally have a phobia of painting figures but I guess I should learn some day.

>>5976320
Thanks for your contribution.

>>5976566
Looks great.
The only thing i'd go over again is the gas cape bag of your officer. That black wash looks to dark and to much for that kinda bright bag. I'd try using a brown or sepia wash to get a bit more subtle shadows there.

>>5976320
Truumpeter kits DO some with railings, but keep in mind that Trumpeter provides the shittiest photo etch on the market. Not only is their etch way too fragile, they hardly ever put in the pre-bent areas that companies like Eduard do to make folding much easier.

This is especially true for their railings, which they provide on a separate sheet and you have to CUT THEM TO LENGTH yourself, which always ends in a disaster. I always buy after-market photo etch when I build Trumpeter ships for this very reason.

Just go with aftermarket stuff though. I recommend Pontos, a Korean company that does super-detail sets, or Flyhawk, a Chinese company that does the same. I've used both of their sets for various projects over the years and they are both great. Pontos is usually better though because they almost always include any wood / teak laser cut decks in their sets in addition to resin pieces sometimes.

Also there are tons of Japanese companies that do similar detail sets, but they are a bit harder to come by.

Where did that good modeler go? You know, the one who built ships and 1/32 aircraft?

>>5976767
Hes on reddit a lot

Isn't building scales something retards do in movies?

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>>5977203
>He's on /toy/

>>5977089
>he's on reddit
Good ridance

>>5977203
>wheredoyouthinkyouare.jpg

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Former Sturmtiger anon here, got started on the Tamiya T-55. It's gonna be a 'just for fun' build, so don't expect a 100% historical tank. After this one it's either the Maus, the Stupa or a Me 262.

>>5977914
Nice. Are you gonna replace the tracks?

>>5977914
I'd like to see you do an aircraft next. Whatever happened to the Sturmtiger? Did you post a gallery or something?

>>5977914
I love the shape of these cold war soviet tanks.

What color scheme do you have in mind?

Hopefully one of you can help me:

I bought an Opel Blitz truck from Italeri.
This one:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/101880-italeri-6606-kfz-305-opel-blitz

It was an impulse buy at a local store and it was on discount, so i didn't read any reviews beforehand.
Now it turned out that the wheels in this kit are made from actual rubber.

Can i prime and paint these rubber wheels just like normal? Will the paint stick? Or do i need some special products for them?

>>5976767
>nobody misses me here
;_;
>>5977914
Cool, I'm going to buy a takom t55 am or the am2b as the t55 upgraded gives me a hard on and until now there were only resin kits. Are you going to make it warpac period or something from a more modern conflict?
>>5977994
I painted the wheels of my btr directly with a bit if Vallejo black primer under it, only a mist like layer. It hold it better than I expected but if you get too rough it will chip. But airbrushing some new tire paint there and all is good.
I suppose that if you want a idiot proof base you need to use tamiya primer or something like that, that really grips to the surfaces.

>>5977915
Nah. As shitty as rubber tracks may be, Friuls are expensive.

>>5977941
I'll think about it. Gotta order some paints for that but why not.
I had to put the ST on hold indefinitely, as I started studying away from home. The tank itself is finished, the figures and Diorama aren't. I fetched the album for you, enjoy. https://imgur.com/a/Xjc3w

>>5977978
I was thinking about simple green, mostly because I don't have a good internet connection for research yet.

>>5978166
Warpac period most likely. I wanted to build a NVA tank, but eh, no emblems.

>>5976767
I still lurk these threads every few days and post, but I haven't had the passion / time to build anything in the past few months... Tried to start a couple projects here and there but they just keep stalling and I lose interest.

Did anyone get the Takom King Tiger? I have never done a kit with a full interior and was contemplating making it my first. Was wondering what people's takeaway was.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jSZgd1J5GE

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>>5978784
Yep. Now it's quite late, but tomorrow or past tomorrow I can answer questions or show things about the kit if you want although I don't know what I could contribute that isn't available in other reviews.
I haven't started it yet as I still have the Löwe but I lost the will to keep doing scale models yet I still buy them, anyway the sprues look really good and the instructions are okayish but have like two additional paper cuts of corrections. Two color profiles offered in the zimmerit versions, which I can also show you but are either brown/yellow or brown/yellow/green. PE is mostly for the mesh grills and the ammo so it's rather basic, but the plastic details are good enough I think for most people (including myself).

Still waiting on my tie interceptor to arrive from japan. Should be any day now

I have many kits to build, I think I might assemble a few, then give them a wash and paint them.

it seems like washing them before I build them is a waste of time, since I'm going to be getting hand prints on everything anyway.

>>5979034
Do it anyway

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>>5978688

>>5978898
>I lost the will to keep doing scale models yet I still buy them
Haven't we all at some point?

>>5978898
I guess the main thing I was curious about was how much gap filling or sanding and filing is required. I've yet to do a full interior kit and was wondering how beginner friendly they are.

>>5979960
Not very

>>5979986
well I'm looking for a challenge but not something that's going to be frustrating enough to get discouraged by it.

>>5980007
Build a jeep or some light armored vehicle first before you tackle a tank.

>>5980014
I find Jeeps and other wheeled vehicles to be more difficult than tanks desu. All those delicate parts for the wheels, axes and the engine.

>>5980007
If you want something with interior but also play it save, get one of the Hobby Boss T-34 kits in 1/48. They are dirt cheap (less than 20€) but come with full interior and despite their scale the detail is good.

>>5980014
well I've built a Panther D, Panther F, Marder III M, a Panzer IV D and an m4 half-track with mortar. Its mostly just looking for something to step up my game with. mostly wondering if I should jump straight into the KT or go to something else first.

>>5980027
What manufacturer were those kits by?

>>5980031
Tamiya, Dragon, Tamiya, Dragon. I'm currently working on a trumpeter KV-2.

>>5980035
Can you post some of your work?

>>5980039
If I had a camera that wasn't attached to a burner I would. I know its hard to be helpful without anything to look at, sorry. I think I'll hold off on it for the time being until I feel comfortable tackling it.

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This sure is fun.
What are you up to, lads?

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I was just informed that there is a 1/48 U-boat by Trumpeter, the absolute madmen

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>>5980189
Huffing MicroSol. Note the big unit mark right on top of the view port.

>>5980206
And still not quite as big as their 1/200 battleships.

>>5980232
Noted. That top hull plate looks a bit grainy. What clear coat did you use?

>>5980236
Quick bit of future. It'll get at least another layer before I go on to weathering.

>>5980189
Awesome

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so, came out that zvezda also have star wars license now. are they throwing them left and right or something?

>>5980452
Saw that as well today. At least that destroyer looks good

>>5980452
I really hope they do more than just to re-release all of the shitty revell kits.

>>5980452
I just read up about it a bit. It seems like they had trouble of selling disney licensed stuff (black pearl) outside of russia before.
So it might be tricky to get the star wars kits too.

That 60cm star destroyer would be awesome though.

>>5980484
Apprently it looks like shit. I havent seen any pics

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>>5980189
Progress

>>5980664
Nice detail on that kit. Trim off one of the valve stems on the front wheel.

>>5980664
Nice job so far, what scale is that in? 1/35?

>>5981097
1/35

>>5980664
Which kit is that? I've been looking for a bicycle for loot to go on an SU-100 in Berlin for a while now.

>>5981499
Masterbox ww2 french soldier with bicycle. They also make a few kits with bicycles. Look them up.

So, time to wipe of excess oil wash.

Oh look, the surface wasn't mirror smooth, so the q-tip is immediately ripped apart, and somethign in oils or white spirits turns glue down the fibred like it was fucking epoxy.

Yay.

>>5983408
Use a brush

>>5983447
Yeah, brush and tissue paper worked a lot better, especially after letting things dry in a bit more.

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>No one makes a 1:48 or 1"72 T-92 Light tank

>>5983883
>T-92 Light tank
It's even available in other scales?

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So I recently bought this Thunderbirds Are Go Tracy Island playset, plus some vehicles scaled to each other/the majority of the playset. Offhand, I'm estimating that the scale is roughly 1/400(hard to tell as the stickers are inconsistent), are there any good resources for that particular scale? If not, what are the scales nearest to it that get the most attention?

What are the best ww1 models?

Heading to orlando for a business conference. Any hobby shops worth checking out?

>>5976566
Nice, I want to get into people but my painting is crap

>>5983937
A big scale near 1/400 is the ship scale of 1/350.

>>5984116
what scale and what are you consider "best"

>>5985098
Idk. Not rrally into aircraft but I like noats and armor etc.

Trying to avoid the shit kits like emhar, airfix and revell

>>5985192
Takom and Meng make great WW1 armor kits

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Anyone know where I could get some 68mm rocket pods like these in 1/72?

>>5985259
without buying a plane kit that comes with them?

>>5985260
Preferably not, but if that's not an option...

>>5985259
They're XM157 rocket pods, I believe. They come with Special hobby Cobra kits.

>>5985273
Thanks. And with that name, I also managed to google up http://www.cobracompany.com/72013.htm

So now to think about whether or not I may want to build a Cobra at some point in the future, or deal with shopping across the pond.

>>5984664
Thanks for the advice, I'll look around.

Anyone got tips for kitbashing?

>>5986967
What do you want to build?

>>5986973
Im interested in bashing some muscle cars and armor to make mad max style vehicles

>>5987037
Well, if you wouldn't make it "accurate" because car and armor scales differ by a big margin.

>>5987037
>>5987042

Check out car kits in 1:43. Its a somewhat popular choice.
There are some armor kits in 1:48 which should be close enough to make conversions work.
If not, get some sheets of plasticcard

>>5977914
Isn't the Stupa the gateway howitzer for the sturmtiger, not the other way around?

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I went back to work on the Löwe a bit after this shit weeks, 2017 can't come soon enough. I lost my way in this project and can't decide between my initial idea of a wet and autumnal scene or a winter one. So I messed around with oils and ended with this on the turret (the hull is pretty generic right now) which I would describe as something frozen or city dust. With some wet effects I could work it out but then it should have some white camo if it was winter.
Can it pass as "dust" or is irremediably fucked?
Take into account that lacks washes and advanced weathering.
>>5979960
I wouldn't say it's beginner friendly overall. I've never done full interiors properly, only turrets and some motor bays, and it requires a lot of attention to detail and it's a pita to sand and fill usually, if that's your main concern. I would buy some cheaper kit and practice with it, or if you don't care in the end, as it's not seen unless you make it possible to open and close, then buy it
>>5986967
"Depends" as >>5986973 said. In general you need a lot of platicard sheets and some rods, a lot of putty and sanding materials and that's it I guess

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>>5987082
The first.

>>5987089
I think that can go as dust.

>>5980189

1/72 KV-1E.

I've been working on it for months now but I'm not really enjoying it. I got it as a gift from a forum member on BM and to be honest if I'd bought it myself I might very well have given up on it. The link and length tracks in that scale are very frustrating.

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>>5987147
I'm Assuming that you're doing the brick version and not the one with curves and Skirts (Pic related)

>>5987823
Different anon.

>>5987823
Sturm-anon here, can confirm:
Real tanks have curves.
That's actually the version I have, it's even got an interior.
It looks better than the Brick-Stupa imo.

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So for a first try at mud, I had a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MBfYwk42A8 and had a go with some dry mud splashes from Ammo. And, yeah, there are issues (still damp with thinner btw, if it looks strange).

I guess working around with airbrush pressure and control (aka git gud, though of course that's a goal for some distant future, ain't gonan help here) could help get the mud to spread finer, instead of large blotches, but I'm starting to wonder if the whole approach may not be deeply flawed for this case due to the wheels and so on being in the way. Front and ass don't seem qutie so bad. Working up some kind of density of mud splatters seems like it'll take an ungodly amount of passes here, and leave wheels and whatnot completely drowned.

I guess dabbing on a good amount of the wet earth effect in the lower regions may help, but, yeah. Being new to mud I'm not even sure I'm pointing in roughly the right direction here.

So is there hope here or should I just clean up as best I can and then go for a heavy dusting of Russian soil pigments for the dirtying up (and hiding some of the worst of this step)? Try to build up a higher density of splatters at elast in the mid region, so I cna transition itno the darker mud lower/around the wheel suspension? However I'll get that on, something stippling-like I guess, because aiming the blown-off-the-brush mud down there seems rather too optimistic.

>>5988967
Looks too light


Wait. Did you airbrush it on?

>>5988967
It doesn't look like mud, it looks like dust if you ask me.

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>>5988976
Like the video shows, put mud on a brush, then use the airbrush, shooting only air, to splatter it over.

Bringing in some heavier artillery brought things to this, which I guess is a lot more mud-like. Perhaps somethign can be done with this after all, if I can just squeeze the dark mud in properly.

>>5989001
Looks way more like mud now.

Try to get some variety with different earth/brown colors and it will be fine. Don't overdo it.

>>5989003
A darker bit in general in places for still wet mud was the plan. Guess I should try to get some tonal variation otherwise too.

>>5987147
I suppose, I hope that with some streaking and washes It will look even duller, but this morning with the shine of the varnish it looked quite weird like some kind of donut glaze but not that extreme and got me a bit worried
>>5989001
That's a fairly conservative application of the product. Or maybe the definition of mud for me is more extreme.
Anyway for the mud in the undercarriage I would do a heavier base with more Paris plaster (mixed with thinner and some pigments/enamel/acrylics of a darker shade and a bit of sieved garden dirt) applied in layers. That means that the one in your last pic is the driest one, then the mid build with the heavier mix and finally an optional layer or touches of fresh splatters or wet effects. But this also depends of the situation you want to represent in the afv.
When I get home I can also show you other ammo mud products I have that can maybe be more comfy to use or how it looks like what I described you. I my ferdinand I did it all with dust and light splashes (Kursk) similar to what are you archiving but for the Löwe I plan something more dirty but not on the kv1 level so I investigated more about mud.
On a slightly related note I have in paper the weathering magazine interiors and the oil issues and "the tanker magazine" (Ak response to mig) destroy inc issue if anyone is interested in seeing what articles are there or some technique.

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>>5989304
And this is what I did for the Ferdinand. A base layer with dry earth and a newer one with loose ground.
Note that this is a reaaaally easy and discrete "mud" (more like dirt) done for the Kursk summer battle (and now looking at it I would do a lot of things differently in this model), depending of what part of the year/theater you wanted to do I would go heavier. In the background you can see the mud product and a wet splashes that would give a darker and shinier finish than the loose ground if you want to keep it "thin"

>>5989348
Beautiful

>>5989350
Thanks, but looking at it there're a lot of things that i didn't notice or I would change. But I guess that's how we learn and get better for the next one
>>5989348
There's also this article that I find quite good, not really an extensive SBS but gives a good overall idea of what to do.
The end result is quite good and really nice for modern afvs but can be applied to ww2 ones of course. Also the ak products he used can be found in the mig ammo range or wilder (not sure about this one) so don't worry if you prefer and/or already have mig things.
http://www.themodellingnews.com/2016/10/done-and-dusted-andy-finishes-mengs.html

>>5987147
If you want to be technical, that award would go to the early Panzer IV.

Whats the consensus on the vallejo metal line? Id like to avoid alclad if possible

>>5991748
Not great.

Why are you avoiding Alclad?

AK makes a line of paints called Extreme Metal which IIRC are enamel-based and have results almost as good as Alclad.

>>5976566
One thing i would suggest is a final lighter highlight of light flesh tone to really bring out the detail.

>>5992507
I might try that. I dont like to use lacquers for the difficulty of cleaning them up

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>>5992833
>difficulty of cleaning them up

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>>5973357
dont know if you're still lurking but i can give you some good tips, i only do the 1/24th scale cars so ive gotten really good

1. enamel paints in the small revel and humbrol tins are great for internals, and small decoration, try not to use it for large thing though, like interior door panels and the dash, paint those with the sprays.

2. internal parts dont really need primers but i usually paint silver first before the actual colour.

3. Tamiya's ranger of sprays are the best you can get for models, they're very fine compared to the regular car paint sprays, and they dry fast, the TS-6 Matt black is way better then any car paint spray matt black you can find, it'll dry perfectly given time to cure.

4. sand the body with grit 2000 or higher sandpaper before your primer coat, and primer should be ok, use white primer for light colours like white and yellows, straight silver is a great primer for metallic colours, grey for anything else.

5. once you've sprayed your first coat of primer, sand that lightly then prime again

6. main coat time, spray each coat in about 3 minute intervals, do about 3-4 coats in total. i do mine out in the australian sun when its not too hot outside, helps it to "cook" and dry evenly. but i do that down the side of my house where the wind is muffled.

7. any problems with the paint work sand it back and start again.

8. Tamiya ts-13 clear coat, spray 1 coat over your main coloured coat, spray it generously but not so much it puddles, then wait 3 mins and spray a second coat over that

9. let it dry inside out of the way of anything that could cause dust to get on it. 2-3 days is best for it to fully cure.

cont..

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10. get some "Micro Mesh" pads, they're like sand paper but go all the way up to 12000 grit, they are for polishing, start with a 4000 grit one, then go up to 6000 ect.. till you get to the 12000, rub them slowly on the paint so it doesnt ball up under the pads and ruin the finish. if you do that process you'll get a very smooth gloss finish.

11. finish!

use regular poly cement for gluing parts, with a tooth pick to apply it, and for clear parts get yourself a tub of Tamiya extra thin cement so they dont cloud up when you clue them.

>>5992858
Seriously. Its not like you can just dispose of laquer paint and thinner by dumping it down the sink

>>5993217
I have a jar out on the balcony for assorted misery.

Sadly the evaporation kinda ceased mid September. Might take a decent bucket to get me through winter.

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Wash done and chipping. Not sure if I should do streaking grime or rain marks as it looks pretty beaten right now. Perhaps too much
>>5993217
>>5993236
I used to be a good citizen and make a jar with solvents and shit and take it to the "green point". But nowadays I don't give a fuck and throw it down the toilet.
In metallic paints I tried humbrol (aluminum), tamiya acrylics (gun metal, aluminum, gold and some other shade of metallic grey I don't remember) and the mig ammo (burnt iron), of these three I would highly recommend mig and then humbrol (enamel) and last tamiya because I remember it not as good as their mate colors. It's acrylic so the clean up and use is easy and eco friendly if that bothers you. I also have Vallejo air - gun metal (71072) right in front of me, but always used it with a brush for very small things so I can't say. I can test them if you want and post the results

>>5992507
Good for acrylics I'd say.

>>5993346
Looks damn good

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>>5993346
Really sexy, I love that type of camo as well.

>>5993346
Personally i like how it looks right now.
Really well done.
Is that an SS-division Frundsberg emblem on the front? Why did you choose that one in particular?

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>>5994307
>>5993359
>>5993740
Thanks, I did more chipping (what can I say, I like em dirty and used) and later I'll add some very light striking grime. I fucked up with the predusting in the lower hull because I don't have the brown shade I need and my mix ended rather ugly (how the fuck ended purple gray from mixing dust and red brown is a mistery for me), but some mud will fix it as I don't want to wait to buy new paints.
As for the frundsberg emblem it was because I like the division, it's performance and it's emblem, also it was deployed from January till the end on the eastern front, where I placed the Löwe.
Also I want to do a (historical this time) panther of this division in winter in Alsace, so it's kind of a symbolic warm up.

>>5993375
Meant for >>5994939 also

>>5994939
Lay off the chipping, buddy

>>5995028
Let the man chip as he pleases.

>>5995028
I really should, but when I start I always feel like in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpbpQRhIFV0 but with chipping. And I know that with this effect "less is more". I need more self control i guess

Anyone know where I can find a museum quality model of the RMS Titanic?

>>5995232
how much are you willing to spend?
graupner do a 1:150 scale that's pretty impressive

>>5995321

Looked it up.
I'm certainly not willing to spend over $1000

Thank you though

Why are there so many Titanics in unconventional scales? Why can't anyone make a good Titanic kit in 1/350?

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Rust and grime streaking done. Now I'm thinking of either doing the mud/dust of the hull with pigments and the enamels I have or leave it in standby and do the turret and wait till my order with new paints arrive
>>5995904
https://www.scalemates.com/search-solr.php?fkSECTION%5B%5D=All&q=Titanic+
There seems to be a quite long list, but probably you will need to settle for a smaller scale if you don't want to pay a ton of dosh as it's a rather iconic ship and people will probably pay for "the best rendition ever"

>>5995904
>Why are there so many Titanics in unconventional scales?

Probably because it's so iconic, so it got a lot of kits back in the box scale days.

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>>5995904
the kits are pretty standard its a case of what you put in is what you get out.

>>5995376
well if that's too much, amati do the 1:250 scale wooden kit that requires some experience in model boat building to look decent.
then you`ll need the extra photo etch parts for museum quality.

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati_titanic.html

mantua do a nice 1:200
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/titanic.html

but im assuming here that you`ll probably end up going for a traditional 1:350 plastic kit.

these are very much down to the skill of the modeller to take it that extra mile to look great.

I think off the top of my head the Minicraft Deluxe 1:350 Titanic is the one most people go for.

you certainly want to start looking here.
http://titanic-model.com/dc/dcboard.php?az=show_topics&forum=123&page=1

there was an amazing 1:350 builder but I don't remember who it was. morten Jensen was pretty good as well tho. pic related.

like I said what you put in is what you get out.
there isn't a build and it will look perfect model kit.

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>>5996034
And the dirt/mud "test". Looks quite good but more crusty than muddy, probably with some plaster and darker pigments and some fresh mud enamels will it will get a more rainy look, as now it feels like fucking summer with all this build.
As for the how to you will need two or more pigments for tonal variety (Russian earth and european earth here), dark mud earth affects (enamel thing) and white spirits.
First "paint" the zone with the dark mud enamel and then sprinkle the pigments in a random way. Let it dry a bit and correct/move things as you need with the thinner. Let it dry and correct if you need to.
It gets a fine textured layer as seen in the pic which can be good as it is or be the base for further effects

>>5996106
If it's so iconic why aren't there any decent 1/350 kits of it?

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I think I'll call this done, as further fiddling seems unlikely to help much.

>>5996260
Mmmm, looks good. I'd say the yellow is a tad too gold but other than that it's a beautiful shelf companion

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All masked up and no place to go

>>5996034
>>5996199
This looks so damn good dude


I still dont understand the cast turret

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>>5996267
Yeah, it started out a bit paler and colder, but then it ended up a bit of a struggle keeping it so without washing out the grey too much. Mistakes to learn from.

Oh well, crew applied improvised camo. We'll say it's the dunkelgelb approximation they found in a barn somewhere.

>>5996274
Finemolds/Revell? Guns don't quite match my Bandai.

>>5996278
Sand casting tends to leave a surface like that. Late war Germany sure as hell didn't have time to spend grinding shit smooth when there wasn't any real practical reason forcing them to.

>>5996281
Bandai interceptor. Not really sure what color to do yet. Tamiya sea grey is grey with a touch of blue so that might work

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Just bought this Heng Long PZIII.

How should I paint it fellas? German Grey or a camouflage pattern?

>>5996751
Depends on the time period you are depicting. for me, camo pattern is a way to go

>>5996828
I'm open to ideas, shoot.

>>5996841
one that participated in operation Citadel is the one. There are many references for panzer III that participated in that operation.

3 tone is a way to go

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PE in place and some half-assed rigging done. If I find the time and patience I might do some more rigging.
>>5996034
>>5996199
>tfw when you would like to learn proper weathering but you don't have the money or patience
Looking really nice, I hope I'll be able to reach that level some day.

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I build 2 soviet BA-64s over the last week for a group build over at /hwg/ and might as well show them here.

They`re Tamiya 1:48. I used different arms for the commander and covered the 2nd turret so they look a bit different from each other.

I hope they aren't to terrible compared to your usual kits in here.

>>5997784
I like them. Theyre decently done.

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Messing with pigments and diluted "wet ground" to archieve some muddy tracks
>>5996260
I think that it's still early to call it done, as it lack what I would say “definition”, maybe more washes in dark blue and some filters. Some oils will help a lot to give it more tonal variety and maybe a bit of dust to close it. Just a bit more of work and it will get livelier.
>>5996751
Your main problem will be the decals depending of what scheme you do. If I were you, I would do a winter version with the dunkelgrau (with its markings) under it so you don’t need to sand, prime and paint it again, just clean it and coat it with satin varnish and go to town. Not sure about the unit or historical accuracy of that concrete tank being painted deployed in winter tho
>>5996278
>>5996950
Thanks. As for the weathering I must say that in the economic side I have spend like 60€ more or less in weathering products only (enamels, pigments, white spirits, etc) and some more in magazines, I must say that most of them I bought them “because I can” and to try them so unless you have the money or your subjects are really varied you can get excellent results with less.
I highly recommend to buy (or download, but I think they are worth to buy) “the weathering magazine” issues as I learned a LOT from them, more than with other books, articles or publications (In the weathering/finishing side of scale modeling) and watch mig videos on youtube or articles by him because his teaching style is GOAT. You can tell by the pictures, steps and texts when something is done by him. I’m not saying that the other modelers of the magazine (some polish dude that does a lot articles in TWM is also really good) or in other places are worse or that he is the best of the world, but in teaching for me he’s the best.
Con't

>>5999701
As for a starter kit in afvs I would say that with this you will have everything you need:
Some starter kit (18€) which includes everything you need in general with some filter, a wash, streaking grime, a pigment and some earth effect or splashes:
AMIG7443 for German afvs. For yellow/light afvs in general
or
AMIG7147 For modern Russian afvs. (The one I have) This can be used in general for overall green vehicles
With this you will have a solid base to work, now for the general refinement:
AMIG7420 AIRPLANES ENGINES AND EXHAUSTS (10.80€). Despite saying it’s for airplanes it includes black and track rust pigments which are extremely useful, and the fresh engine oil effect which is a really nice effect
AMIG2011 HEAVY CHIPPING EFFECTS (3.60€). A must have for complex weathering and paint jobs, from scratching to winter camouflage fadeout to dust effects.
And now for something a little bit optional but that gives really good looking results with minimal effort in the last stages:
Splashes:
AMIG1750 DRY EARTH (3.95€). Textured enamel for the dry or old mud splashes
AMIG1752 LOOSE GROUND (3.95€). Darker one to put in front of the light tone for newer mud.
AMIG1704 HEAVY EARTH (3.95€). For the heavier mud (which you can also make in other ways of course)
And finally one or two pigments to get some tonal variety (3.6 € each)
Total for the three first basic things 32.4€ and 47.85€ for everything listed, add white spirits thinner if you don’t already have one for 5-6€ more. With this you will be set and ready to go for more or less the price of a trumpeter kit. Of course you can archive this effects with whatever other products or techniques, but for me this a sure way to get what I want without fucking around (a lot) and more importantly consistent results between sessions.
For planes and ships I can’t really say a lot except the panel liners for planes and some oils, and the AK naval weathering line I guess.

>>5999706
(wew that was long to write)
>>5997784
They look good; being picky I would say to either do a wash or a filter or both, but not that weird in-between that covers the flat surfaces that looks like neither

>>5999701
Might try gloss medium

>>5999759
That's a good idea if this doesn't work out

Still haven't started anything on my 1/16 KV2.

I was thinking though, I ordered a 1/35 Edelweiss from Valkyria Chronicles. Maybe rather than trying to do something more realistic I could give it a Gallian paint scheme, some side skirts, stuff like that.

Could be more interesting and fun doing that.

>>5999701
>Some oils will help a lot to give it more tonal variety

I don't think I'll be taking your advice for that tank, as the mud was enough in the way of new and barely mastered techniques for one build for my poor heart.

I will keep in in mind for the future though. And with that, anything in particular you had in mind as for the use of these oils? Dot filter kind of thing (pulled into streaks on the sides and more sloshed around on top perhaps)? Oil and rust streaks?

>>6000811
That valkyria chronicles idea might be really good if it's well executed. I can't remember any tank of the games that looks like a kv2 so you could pick imperium or gallia, also think how to do the glowing blue radiators
>>6000979
When I say oils I refer (wrongly) to the oil dot technique only, as it changes the tone of the base color "randomly" giving a subtle richness and variety to it. But you can use them also to highlight and shade surfaces general or other effects I guess. Although for streaking and stuff like that enamels are better as they are already liquid so you can control how it looks.
You can also use that pz4 as a test bed for future experimentation if you aren't exactly happy with it

>>6001198
>When I say oils I refer (wrongly) to the oil dot technique only

Noted for future use.

>You can also use that pz4 as a test bed for future experimentation if you aren't exactly happy with it

Happy enough at the moment, but yeah, somewhere down the line perhaps.

>>6001198
>enamels are much better as they atr already liquid

What

>>6001198
I feel like the KV2 would be more Imperial, being big heavy and useless.

But I much rather the nice blues of the Gallian paint.

>>5996950
They're turning out really nice. I didn't know the Yamato painted their decks gray though, was this for operation Ten-go or something?

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so hot

>>6002266
I have that issue.

I, too, bought it for the ocean tutorial.


On a related note, I got my spray booth in the mail today so looks like I can start building again in the new apartment. Not sure what I want to start though.

>>6002546
>>6002266

>dat overflow off the sides

Post scans plz

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>>6002266

Is there a brand of epoxy putty that's exceptionally good for modelling, or will any old brand do?

>>6003092
most modellers use milliput white superfine.

what you wanna use it for?

>>6003171
Was planning on doing some modifications to an existing kit to make kind of a joke build. Would involve some filling some larger areas to make areas flush and possibly a bit of sculpting.

>>6003180
a trick I recently came across is to get some sprue, put it in a jar, add some cellulose thinners and it will turn into a goo you can use as filler, cos its from the original plastic it just becomes part of the plastic and is better for drilling and shit.

>>6003320
Sounds like it could easily end up warping the surrounding plastic as all the solvent start diffusing out every which way. You're basically making extra thick plastic cement, and slopping on a lot of the regular stuff can certainly fuck things up.

>>6003360
http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=33396

think what you want its of no concern to me.

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Trying my hand at a Kursk camoflauge. Model is stug III. Progress so far.

>>6003608

i thought that manual was a language learning book for a second

>>6003634
Technically, you aren't wrong

>>6003608
Is that not a StuH?

>>6003716
Sturmgeschutz iii

I'm just getting into tanks, this is the stug? Or am I wrong?

>>6003719
Might just be senile but the gun looks like a 105

>>6003719
StuH was a 105mm LefH 18 artillery piece mounted on the Stug III chassis. That's just the standard Tamiya Stug III kit though, positive Tamiya never made a StuH variant anyways.

Ordered a 1/144 Dora railway gun

>>6001815
Yeah it's supposed to be the Yamato at operation Ten-go, I didn't really do any extensive research regarding stuff like gun configuration for that specific operation though. The color of the deck is as far as I understand slightly disputed. Some paint it completely black but I think they mainly used soot to darken the deck which probably made it a more greyish brown. I mainly chose to paint it dark grey because I like that look.

>>6003735
Exactly.

The barrel might just look a bit thick because of the angle of the pic.

>>6004199
Why is it so short?

>>6003743
Nice!

>>6004382
It's a leFH 18 howitzer and not an anti tank gun.

>>6004391
But Tamiya never made a StuH kit

>>6004396
Aftermarket kits exist though.

>>6004403
Left over from Dragon? That barrel doesn't look like it's made from metal.

>>6004396
It's definitely a StuH gun regardless if Tamiya made one or not.

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What do you lads think about this layout? Took the base from a 1/16 Masterbox figure. I'm planning on adding some clay and grass tufts on the side. Any sugestions?

>>6003171
tamiya putty is also good.

>>6003608
That is a StuH

That muzzle brake is too large for 75mm armed Stug III

>>6004437
the generic walkway with few grasses at the sides will do. a cobblestone road will do

one of these will make it good

Hi, I'm looking to buy someone a model of the T-34 tank but this is my first time ordering such a thing, so I've no idea what would be considered good quality on a budget of say £25.

What would you guys recommend?

>>6005279
What scale would you like to look into?

>>6005386
Oh thanks for the response but I think I've found what I'm after. The guy specifically asked for that tank based on liking the show Girls und Panzer, after looking around I see there's a GuP branded model so I'll go with that instead of a more standard one.

Thanks again though.

>>6005389
No worries mate. Hope they enjoy it.

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Idk if ive ever seen a more beautiful rear end

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>>6004408
Two barrels came in the kit.

>>6005749
Interesting. But now this mystery is solved

What's a good line for some 1/700 ships? Tamiya has a great line up, but I hate the only option is to not have the bottom hull.

>>6005855
Trumpeter makes a ton

1/72 t-34/76. Any well known gems or turds?

>>6006104
Revell (1:76) is the old Matchbox kit. Avoid.

>>6006104
Value for money Zvezda > the rest
Italeri one is pretty decent.

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I think Im almost done

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"Small" update, sry for the shit pic. Almost finished and doing some heavy dirt with pigments. I really like how it looks now when it's still wet so I'm going to try to make it like it rained with some wet effects and varnish. This kind of decisions are the ones that give soul to the model or fucks it up beyond salvation, but better try new things now than later I guess

>>6006197
So's the interceptor by the looks of it, heading towards Falcon territory...

>>6006341
Looks like they've been doing a lot of stuff with oil of some sorts around the small turret hatch.

>>6006341
It seems like I try a new technique every time I do a model. Been working out so far

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>>6006341
>>6006348
This is how it looks almost dry, the oily look was the dark pigments and the thinned enamel that I used to agglutinate the pigments, this has the advantage that once dry you can pass a sponge and clean it up quite realistically, unlike the pigment fixer that fixes them "forever"
>>6006197
I dig this finish on the interceptor, maybe a bit more of panel liner?
>>6006349
I?

>>6006361
Yeah, the oiled up look's gone there.

Agree on the panel liner for the Tie.

>>6006361
Only Soviet vehicle should be that dirty. Filthy Facist pigs!
[spoiler]looks awesome![/spoiler]

So whats your personal opinion regard 1/700 ship manufactures?

Hasegawa, Aoshima, Fujimi, Tamiya and Academy.

Its like the deja vu feelings of being indecisive at shitload of Panzer IV brands.

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Almost there, I like how it looks but it doesn't look exactly like I want. Like something is not exactly right, but I don't know what else do to it to make it look like wet. Just some more mud and perhaps a final touch with debris and done.
>>6006593
Thanks, keeping the red tide at bay in autumn is a dirty business
>>6007284
I'm not a ship guy but I guess that tamiya is overall pleasant but might be too simple, hasegawa good and trumpeter (not listed but I think they do 1/700) would be, if relatively new, quite good and detailed. The others I can't even guess.
Check scale mates for models/manufacturers and their reviews as it's better than nothing and you can see for yourself if the review is good if the kit is worth it

>>6007362
Dust.

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Put together a stand. Not sure I like it. Ive ordered a brass plate for it

>>6007849
Base unfinished?

I'd look into swapping the rod for a clear one.

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>>6007284
I have done a lot of Tamiya. I'm not very good at modes, but i like putting them together. Tamiya is great for that, and they paint well. Problem is that, due to their size, they aren't incredibly detailed. But I really like them.

>Pic related is one of mine.

>>6007886
Forgot to mention, I find them very simple. The bigger models take time, but some smaller ones take only a few hours. But they're fun weekend builders, if you aren't concerned about realism and might be pressed for time.

What is the best site to find aftermarket detail parts for armor? Most are such a mess, I wish there was a site where you just went to the kit you had and they showed you everything that would fit it. Or that the medium+ sized aftermarket guys would get on Amazon...

>>6007894
> I wish there was a site where you just went to the kit you had and they showed you everything that would fit it.

Its called scalemates.com

Problem is, its not a shop.
Sockelshop.de has lots of aftermarket stuff, but probably a few items you want are missing (as always).

>>6007907

thanks that will be a big help for at least figuring out what the options are

>>6007894
Agreed. It seems most are made by individuals, not companies

>>6007907
>>6007914
>>6007962

Here's one of my favorite little known ones, I wanted to make a Luchs with the gun I like in WoT

http://www.modellbau-schatton.privat.t-online.de/html/preisliste.html

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>>6007284
I've stuck to Fujimi but I've only built IJN ships and haven't really tried any other makers. My experience with Fujimi is that they have decent out of the box detail but some kits had a few parts that I couldn't get to fit without more extensive modification. I found their PE to be decent as well, especially compared to Trumpeters.
Pic related is the first Fujimi kit I tried building, an IJN Kongo. No extra parts or PE were used on that kit.

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>>6007968

the "mighty" 3cm 103 with the insane pen that makes the tank so fun

>>6007978
Wow, nice ship!

>>6007869
>>6007849

I like the metal rod but the base kinda looks like shit.

>>6007978

I think I've seen you post a Fusou and Atago as well, both of which looked amazing. Wish I could build as well as that.

>>6008373
You are correct (except for the detail that it was Fuso's sistership Yamashiro) and thanks for the kind words. Looking back at them I see a lot that could be improved though, someday I hope to be able to build one with full PE, rigging and all kinds of other details.
The Yamato >>5996950 is also one of mine.
Right now I have my eyes on a Fujimi IJN Maaya but since I just moved to Japan it will take a while until I can set up shop again.

>>6008417
Japan has a good selection for model stuff, though. If you're in Tokyo, there's always the Akiba Yodobashi and the Tam Tam hobbyshop, which has an OK selection, honestly it may be great, but where I live, hobbyshops are pretty much nonexistant, sadly. Poor US is worst US.

>>6008505
>Akiba Yodobashi
That's exactly where I am right now. The selection of kits and especially optional parts almost moves me to tears. and it's not even expensive. Gonna see if I have time for Tam Tam hobbyshop as well.

>>6007284
Check out Flyhawk. They have the most detailed 1/700 kits on the market. I'm not joking when I say the detail on them is very close to what you would get in many 1/350 kits from other manufacturers, if not surpassing some.

>>6008524
It's on Chuodori, but I imagine you know that much already. They had a lot of Fujimi kits when I was there in July, I got some tools instead of kits, though. Just basic shit like some better tweezers and some sprue cutters. It's cheaper for me to fucking fly to Japan and pick some of this up at times than it is to pay shipping.

Being an airline employee is great!

>>6008540
Actually I've only been there once or twice and those times I was only looking at gunpla. Most times I just go to the shop at the top floor that sells a lot of German WWII uniforms and other stuff.

How would Aliexpress go for models?

I know some people buy bootleg figures and such from there and say how bad the paint/joints/etc are.

For model kits, could they be reasonable? They have a 1/144 Ratte I'd like, for much less than I'm finding elsewhere.

>>6008778
You have to distinguish between wares simply sold there and actual bootlegs.

You are referring to the Takom P1000 kit i assume. Takom is a chinese (hongkong) company.
Doesn't it make sense that chinese sellers have those articles a bit cheaper than others since they don't have to import them first?

Actual bootlegs on Aliexpress are rare. It happens from time to time that you see some kits that are obviously stolen from a different company and sold with a new box. Thats not the case with that Takom kit, as its sold as Takom and not as "Talkum" or something like lots of the "not-lego" articles.

That being said, i bought a couple of bootleg warhammer minis (not on Ali) from china and the details, the fit and everything was perfect. I had one bad mini in 15 orders so far. (All resin, so that is not unusual.)

>>6008781
I've heard sometimes the bootlegs are actually pretty decent, particularly the Lego ones. Some guy posted here a while ago how he paid like 80 bucks for a bootleg Star Destroyer kit or something, when the real one is several hundred dollars.

Said the quality was actually good. I thought they may have just used the box image and were selling the kit as a shoddy knockoff, but I didn't know the actual company was from there. Thanks

>>6008778
>Aliexpress
>ever
Enjoy getting your info stolen.

Are there many models for non-Star Wars spaceships? Or just scifi vehicles in general? Where should I look? Kinda new to this hobby. The link I checked in the OP didn't really have what I was looking for.

>>6008867
Revell has a couple of Star Trek as well as Battlestar Galactica ships. Star Trek might be difficult to find

They did a Perry Rhodan line in the past too.

Some japanese companies have Anime/Manga-based Sci-Fi kits too. (Not necessarily Gundam stuff)

There also is Games Workshop with their 40k kits. There are some space ships (more like fighters) in their line too.

Check the "sci-fi" category over here:
https://www.scalemates.com/search-solr.php?q=*&fkSECTION[]=Kits&fkGROUPS%5B%5D="Science+Fiction"

>>6008900
Alright, thanks mate!

>>6008867
There's plenty. See for example

http://www.starshipmodeler.com/

And if you ever find something from Descent Freespace, shout. Loudly.

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>>6008867
If you want a large variety of spaceship designs, you should look into /tg/ related stuff, as there's a large amount of sci fi games out there with all kinds of spaceships.

If you really want large kits with better details, you're basically going to want to search ebay for oldass kits that aren't all that good without a lot of effort on your part to add on to it by yourself.
Bandai makes a lot of stuff based on anime series though and a lot of it is great, like the space battleship yamato 2199 series ones.

>>6008867
Look into Ma.K. also industria mechanika for random sci fi

>>6006341
looks like shit but in the battledamage way and not the poor quality type, good job!

>>6007886
the model looks pretty good, could use a darker deep water colour, and it would look a lot better if you painted it and weathered it

>>6007765
Needs dust or the dust fucked it up? which is something I suspect, but initially didn't plan to wet it so it can be helped. In this kit I didn't get my shit together due to some blog worthy issues, so the weathering doesn't come off as a "whole" but a bit mismatched. But better to try new shit and get better for the next
>>6008962
Thanks man, tomorrow or past tomorrow if I'm free I'll do a photoshoot tot the best of my poor ability and post it so people can see how the effects look and ask how to do stuff. Which desu is more fun to explain and answer stuff than "show off"

>>6009340
Looking forward to it

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Started the 1/700 arleigh burke. My first ship and I cant honestly say I dont enjoy any of it.

I dont even remember why I bought this one

>>6009531
*can honestly say

This shit is hard

>>6007284
It really, really, varies based on the kits. You have really modern stuff like Aoshima's Fuso/Yamashiro retool which is up there with the best of the best in 1/700, but you go to another kit like their Chuyo and you get dogshit that barely resembles a real ship without extensive aftermarket modification. Same with Hasegawa, although Hasegawa has at least decent tools for all the capital ships (though only the Japanese ones) and cruisers (shitty destroyers, but hey, it's 1/700). Tamiya has the most consistent quality- their releases from the 70s still hold up very well (I'm a big fan of the Scharnhorst/Gneisenau) and their releases from the 90s to the present are all really nice (sometimes a bit toylike in proportions, but hey, it's 1/700 and that can't really be avoided).

Fujimi, on the other hand, decided to go all "fuck that" to the waterline series and has released their own versions of the Japanese fleet. Fujimi's versions, in my experience, tend to be more nicely detailed out of the box than Aoshima/Hasegawa/Tamiya kits of the same subject, but don't get any non-Japanese ships from them, as they are practically guaranteed to be ancient molds and Fujimi was not nearly as good as Tamiya was in the 70s and 80s.

I haven't had much experience with Pit-road and Skywave, but the rules are probably similar to the ones for the other Japanese manufacturers- look up the kit before you buy.

Finally, onto Trumpeter. Trumpeter is new and they don't have a ton of old kits, which means if you buy one of their 1/700 ships it's almost guaranteed to be new. All of their ships come with a full hull option, so if that's your thing it's difficult to go wrong. However, Trumpeter often fucks up the details on subtle things like the reverse-taper of large-caliber artillery barrels, hull strakes, and underwater hull form, and their detailing tends to be pretty heavy-handed (very deep panel lines, big portholes). Still, they tend to fit together pretty well.

>>6009752
However, in my experience, Dragon is the king of 1/700 kits. The selection is, of course, extremely limited; You have the Bismarck, Tirpitz, a few of the Essex class carriers, Arizona/Pennsylvania, Atlanta-class cruiser, and a few more that I can't name off the top of my head. From personal experience, the 1/700 Essex is the best by far of the numerous renditions of it, and the Bismarck is probably the best of the 3 worthwhile 1/700 scale Bismarcks (Aoshima, Dragon, Trumpeter).

Revell and Italeri is dogshit for anything that floats except maybe the 1/144 and 1/72 scale ships, but that's not really what you were asking for, I think.

Airfix doesn't really do 1/700, They have a bunch of old and toylike 1/600 kits because Hornby is off in its own little brexit world where it is the 1950s and you can still get away with selling models in a plastic bag.

Hobby Boss doesn't really have a ton of 1/700 kits, but their quality is about the same as Trumpeter in most cases. Avoid their 1/700 Arizona, it's an underscale verison of Revell's 1/426 box scale Arizona that somehow has even less detail and even more fucked up proportions. Seriously, this thing looks like the fucking Bismarck.

Am I missing any manufacturer?

>>6009768
Idk im doing some weird japanese company. Something wave

>>6009857
Wave is a company

>>6009857
Skywave?

>>6009752
>>6009768
Nice summary!

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Would /toy/ rate my latest work?

It didn't turn out the way I imagined. But that is ok.
I do think I really need to get myself some metallic silver

>>6010379
Is that the Revell Snapkit?
What did you use to paint it?

>>6010412
Its the vehicle collection set feom bandai. 144 scale even if the box does not say so.

As for paint, vallejo handbrushed on top of tamiya flat white in can.Krylon 1311 matt finish for top coat.

>>6010273
Thats the one

>>6010379
It looks like you didnt paimt it at all

>>6010456
what do you mean?

>>6010448
You need a black wash in the panel lines and on the engines. That will make it look better and less toy-ish.

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>>6010465
> black wash

Oh that...

Not a big into weathering, but I guess in this case it is needed.
Not sure if I can still do a wash with the 1311 top coat.
Maybe I try it out on the Y wing

>>6010502
Just try it. Since its already sealed you should be able to remove the wash again easily if you don't like it.. and honestly, it can't get much worse.. those engines need some shading.

>>6010503
>Just try it. Since its already sealed you should be able to remove the wash again easily if you don't like it.. and honestly, it can't get much worse.. those engines need some shading.

Will it work with acrylic paint? That is all I got.
So one drop of black with plenty of water just brush away?
Do i need to wipe the excess (I think I will go easy on the black so I don't think this is needed)

>>6010510
You can use acrylic washes. Vallejo does some.
They are easy to use, but difficult to clean up if you spill some at a place where it doesn't belongs.


Or you can use enamel washes, which are easier to clean (with white spirit), but you need to seal your paint with a varnish before using them, because the white spirit could cause problems with the paint. Ammo of MIG or AK Interactive are brands you might want to look up for these.

>So one drop of black with plenty of water just brush away?

Kinda. A wash usually has some sort of flow improver and other stuff inside.

>>6009768
>because Hornby is off in its own little brexit world where it is the 1950s and you can still get away with selling models in a plastic bag.

And somehow they appear to have cornered the small side of the market for the HMS Belfast with this, using over 40 year old tooling.

Oi, makers, the damn ship's still sitting around in one of the worlds major tourist cities! I can't imagine I'm the only one who wants to build what he's been aboard here.

>Am I missing any manufacturer?

Flyhawk?

>>6010379
Next time, paint within the lines.

>>6010512
>but you need to seal your paint with a varnish before using them

Which the topcoat should have taken care of.

>>6010515
Exactly.

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>>6010515
>>6010512
I am actually a bit afraid of using Vallejo's acrylic stuff for wash again.

I tried it before, the problem is once it is dried, I can't really remove the spilled mark.
I guess the tamiya's panel lining jar could work, but I am not sure if using Mr thinner will remove the 1311 topcoat which I think is of lacquer.

>>6010533
Mr. Thinner will remove everything. It is a lacquer thinner.

>>6010533
For Tamiya's panel liner clean up should probably be done with their X20 thinner. White spirits might work.

You can get a spare piece of plastic and test if it dissolves 1311. Just let it cure properly first, if it's lacquer that probably means a few days?

>>6008867
Moebius models makes Batlestar Galactica kits that are ok, they're not spectacular, but they are pretty good. There are also plenty of garage resin kits that you can find for various sci-fi media, but they are pretty expensive.

>>6010620
>Moebius models makes Batlestar Galactica kits that are ok, they're not spectacular, but they are pretty good.

And pretty expensive i found. Revell reboxed the kits (they didn't even remove the name from the sprues) and sell it for way less.

>>6010563
>X20 thinner

Beginner here
I don't quite understand this.
X20 thinner is nothing but alcohol right?
It works with acrylic paint too? Because I heard plenty of people using it as acrylic thinner.

>>6010626
IIRC, it's alcohol + some other shit. It's meant to thin their line of acrylic paints, so yes, it works with acrylic paint. That being said, tamiya's acrylic paint is different from most acrylic paints and kinda resembles a lacquer

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>>6010628
maybe they meant X20A?

Cause X20 says enamel only

>>6010626
It contains things that are, chemically speaking, alcohols. Not ethanol however, so don't even think of spiking your tea with it.

Still, you could try with plain old denatured too I guess. It's mostly meant to thin their acrylics (I use it when airbrushing, for brush painting I thin their paints with water as I find it dries a bit too fast with their thinner, YMMV), might work to thin other acrylics too.

>>6010632
My bad, I was referring to X20a, and I assume they were as well. X20 would be used for their enamels, meaning their panel line stuff as well

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>>6010502
>wash
>weathering

Panel lining isnt strictly weathering and in this case, you sorely need something to bring out the detail. Also dont use flash photography

>>6010502
>Not sure if I can still do a wash with the 1311 top coat.
You cant, it will look like ass.
You got 2 options. Put a gloss coat, pin wash and then reseal with your flat coat OR give up and take what you learned into the next model.

>>6010632
>maybe they meant X20A?

...yep. Missed the A on the label. Makes sense, enamel thinner to deal with enamel panel wash without eating through all too much acrylics.

>>6008963
It looks darker in person. How do I weather it, besides doing rust detailing?

>>6010962
Not necesarily weathering but you need to do some color modulation. Darken the low areas and highlight the top

>>6010513
Trumpeter's releasing a 1/700 Belfast (which is based on shrunk-down plans for their 1/350 version) this year, so they're about to lose even that.

Flyhawk was already covered by someone else, their kits are all amazing and come with a decent amount of photoetch.

AFV Club are so overrated. Their kits are covered in flash and sink marks. They don't fit together well. The wing nuts on one kit have thick attachment points on the top and bottom so I had to buy replacement wing nuts from another company.

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Whoa shit

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>>6011492

>>6011492
>And this, kids, is why you don't pre-shade solely with black

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>>6011496

>>6011497
Rude

>>6011492
Didn't know this was a cringe thread

>>6011505
Where the fuck do you think you are?
At least it was advice unlike >>6011507

>>6011419
I agree. I've built several AFV Club kits over the years and it's always the same problems. Shit quality plastic, sink marks everywhere and tons of flash to clean up.

Also, whoever designs their sprues needs to fuck off, they get warped way too easily, and the connection points for small parts is always terrible.

>>6011492
Whoa buddy ease up on the preshading

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PE done. For the first time doing 1/700 Im pretty happy. Got a base coat down too but im not too pleased for that. I dont think ill do another ship

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Finally I had some free time to make the “final” photos. I said it before but I really need to step up my photography game, but I hope you get a good idea of how it looks out and the finishing.
Here’s the imgur album for the finished model
http://imgur.com/a/HuB9i
And here’s to the building log:
http://imgur.com/a/mU4yd
Obviously ask all you want about how to do stuff, weathering doubts or product list. I’ll try to answer the best I can and it’s more interesting that way.
The Löwe is set in the autumn of 1945 in the forests of Poland, in a timeline that the war got dragged on without a clear winning side. So the deployment of equipment is quite generous but also gets dragged in long operations and skirmishes. I wanted to give that feel of bleakness and “rockin till the wheels fall off” but not in a desperate way like the real end of the WWII. That come out a bit autistic but having clearly the head canon of your model is essential to execute it in a convincing way inside my limitations, and in this case I had some doubts and did some steps that I’ve shouldn’t done (mainly dusting and some of the oils).

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>>6012113
And another for those that cant get in imgur
>>6011437
That kit is train model useful? I mean, once finished you can put it those electric railroad models and drive it around. Also that’s a quite fancy box, but being all metal sounds a bit of a pita to build and paint. But might end being quite cool.
>>6011492
I would prime in a lighter color like grey or white, be more careful with the seam lines in the middle of >>6011502 and in some of the pieces. Also be softer with the striking and weathering as planes aren’t treated as roughly as afvs. Overall I would say that for the next one go more “neat and defined”, I’m not a plane guy but that’s something that is common in all the plane models: neat and defined in all aspects. But really nice job overall and let’s see the next one. Slightly related, those red painted planes aren’t from the UK acrobatic team? I didn’t know they carried combat missions in such a flashy scheme
>>6011700
Small ships look painful to do with all those fine details and painting. If I had to do one I wouldn’t pick a modern ship neither as they look too neat and boring compared to ww2 rust buckets

>>6011496

at this rate might as well do some weathering to mitigate the dark smudges

>>6012114

can you take some picture from human height perspective?

>>6012242
What do you mean, like putting the camera at the head level of a 1:35 person?

>>6012295

yeah, that

>>6012114
I dont even remember why I picked this ship. If I could go back id get a ww1 or 2 battleship

Tamiya making a t/48 Ki-61 Hien, looks pretty great.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/tamiyafair/hien.htm

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>>6012391
There ya go. More or less at the same height as the figure and bonus 105mm projectile (9 came with the kit, I might paint them another day)

>>6012558

nice, is that Wehrmacht decal a bit tilted or just my impression?

>>6012569
Had to check it irl as I couldn't believe this passed unnoticed to me. But yep, is a bit tilted and its emplacement with two different surfaces makes it worse. This shit wouldn’t have passed a german inspection, well can’t do much about it now

>>6012114
>Slightly related, those red painted planes aren’t from the UK acrobatic team? I didn’t know they carried combat missions in such a flashy scheme

they don't carry. those weapons came from other kits.

thanks for the advice/critic.

>>6010533
>>6010638

Use an enamel thinner for Tamiya Panel line wash. Moreover use it only on paint which is acrylic. If you use it on an enamel paint it will eat the paint. In the same sense if you use the enamel wash with X-20A which is just Isopropyl alcohol the thinner will eat through an acrylic paint

>>6012558
Honestly, the water effects or whatever really don't look right. Maybe if it was in a diorama, but alone I think you should go back and matte coat the whole thing and it will look better.

>>6013772
I like it how it looks, but I agree it doesn't look right as an effect (the dust is too mate and if i just left the satin finish it would ended looking better/right).
Also I must say that never ever do something like re-coating (that's a general advice) in varnish a finished model as it kills every effect.
I was thinking of making a small base this winter for it, a small country road near a fountain or a tree, something small and simple. I've never done a real diorama so I'm wasn't quite sure, but your comment kinda inspired me to do it as it will give some background to it.
And I appreciate this kind of comments as it gives way to other projects and ideas

new thread when?

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First 1/72 scale kit, went through the trouble of giving it LEDs for the shtora lights, and sculpting/drilling a small tube for the light to shine through.
How did I do, anons?

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>>6016010

>>6016014
>>6016010
Very nice work anon

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>>6016014
>>6016010

>>6016010
how are you powering them? hidden cables into the turret?

>>6016010
Dope

>>6016010
I love those shtora dazzlers.
Also anyone want a new thread?

Been playing too much bf1 and want to build the meng ft17. Anyone done it?

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>>6016153
Connected shtora dazzlers to turret with a bit of clay, reinforced with superglue, drilled holes from lenses through front of turret, carved out room for LEDs in turret, glue in LEDs and gave them a battery that barely fits thanks to me filling most of the hull with clay and coins so it would feel nice and heavy.

>>6016191
>bf1
WE WUZ

>>6016010
Are you the guy who had that kit with the sink mark on the barrel? How was it overall? The turret shape look inaccurate and the tracks look worse than their T-72M1 kit's.
Did you make the lenses for shtora out of clear plastic or did you grind the LEDs flat?

>>6016438
- Nope, never posted here before.
- Kit was pretty nice for how cheap it is, has some fitting issues and some parts(tow cables) are molded in multiple pieces seemingly just to annoy the modeller.
- looking at photos the turret doesn't seem too inaccurate to the old T-90 with the cast turret, probably wouldn't be that hard to sand the the front a bit rounder for accuracy.
- tracks don't look too bad to my eye, however I did find them a pain to glue together and put on without snapping a wheel off or breaking the tracks apart, better to shape them to the wheels before gluing.
- LEDs are still round, and the shtora don't have lenses, just a hole going through them to the turret, innacurate, but not very noticeable when they're turned on.