Scale Model General

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>>5930899
OP here, pic related is an ongoing process to improve my 1/16 M4 Sherman. New turret is assembled and installed, I did away with the airsoft function. Elevation and traverse works now. Next thing I need to do now is to replace the hull MG and caliber .50 as they look pretty bad. Also need to replace the vision port glass.
Should I even bother weathering the hull?

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I did some oils, even if I wouldn't recommend that technique in such rough surfaces, and also tried to dirty the surface with them. Like dirty rain and dusty air, but ended too red and noticeable so I'm not too sure if I achieved what I wanted. I'll do the washes and then think if I should make it more dark or try to remove it (a bit difficult now). Or maybe some anon can give me an idea, what I'm trying to do is an early autumn in the country side, so some fighting in towns but mostly in the open fields and forests. I found to do some wet effects and rain marks, also mud for the tracks but not too much I think.
>>5930748
I use them and are really good. I must say that my favorite are tamiya acrylics, but for "new" colors or the ones that aren't in their range I use amig. Perfect to airbrush without thinner if you want, but when brushed I had mixed results. I don't think they are like normal Vallejo, more similar if you want a comparison to the air range I guess. And for the price they are the cheapest here, 2,30€, compared to tamiya (2,8-3,6€), and the others so I would highly recommend them
>>5930903
I wouldn't bother to make complex weathering. I would do a filter, pin washes and some dot oil. Maybe some dusting in the flat surfaces and if you want a bit of rust and scratches. But if you are going to use it the dust and shit will come naturally, also driving it around would destroy fake mud and other weathering

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Trying color modulation for the first time

>>5931547
And lowlights. Needs a little cleanup but I like the effect a lot

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>>5931575

These threads are so dead lately and it makes me sad

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I have come to the conclusion that Eduard does NOT test build the kits that they put out, nor does it appear that they even look at their instructions.

This kit looked like it had so much promise, a decent old, but not ancient Hasegawa kit reboxed with Eduard photo etch (colored and brass) + Resin wheels and replacement air intakes.

Building the cockpit completely according to the instructions and it simply doesn't fit together, Parts press up against each other and it's impossible to make the sidewalls fit inside the cockpit.

The circled areas are the problem, the parts touch up against each other and prevent the cockpit from fitting properly. In addition to this, there's supposed to be a nother ~1mm thick brass piece that goes between the wheel and the cockpit chair that in no way can possibly fit where it is labeled on the instructions.

God damn, seriously fuck Eduard. Their instructions are deceptively shit, the drawings are garbage even though they have nice color camouflage / decal schemes, the actual instructions themselves are fucking awful. It doesn't even tell you how to fold any of the photo etch properly, not that I have any problems with it, but it's another issue.

The kit is a Macchi C.202 Folgore by the way.

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This is the specific kit by the way, I suggest any other 1/48 plane people avoid this shit.

I'm just going to end up taking out the parts that are preventing it from going together. Luckily you can barely see the cockpit in this kit anyways.

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OP here, went out earlier this morning and took some pics of my tank at a local park. I work a night shift so I don't really get to get out all that often to drive it around. Also I'm looking for suggestions for something to fill in the vision ports with if anyone has some. Also cannot steem to find 1/16th scale stowage accessories that are in stock anymore.
>>5932202
Its pretty depressing isn't it?

>>5932204
>>5932214
Does it have any other flaws? I mean it's not that hard to stray a bit from the instructions and modify the parts. But yeah. I have a couple 1/48 Eduard tooled kits: Fw 190A5 and Bf 108. Both don't want to fit together too much. Especially the Fw 190. It has all these open panels for the engine and gun bays. I hate when kits havve open bays because most of the time they're engineered to be opened.

>>5932204
At least it looks good

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M4A1's out evaporating off white spirits and linseed oil, so I'm looking at getting airborne in the meantime. And, yeah, this'll be a project. Not peg-hole bits to guide anything, shelf for the cockpit only on one side, and on the upper end of that shelf (where the cockpit will sit) there was a big inlet/ejection peg, that I ended up having to chisel out with a small screwdriver. Probably bets to get the one on the opposing side while I'm at it.

>>5931144
Looks rather rusty to me. Or the Afrika Korps appears to have pushed south a good bit.

>>5931587
That could've ended up looking a whole lot worse.

>>5933055
Thanks I guess?

>>5932204
Interesting. Really too bad though. I have noticed this a few times when I've been building eduard stuff too but I always thought it was my fault. Maybe thin down the wheel and replace the box with a styrene (albeit, thinner) version?

>>5933055
From what maker/year is that kit?
I read about eduard wacky kits so >>5932501 and >>5932214 don't really surprise me but yours looks on another whole level of fuckery
And related to the Löwe I didn't plan to set it in Africa or anywhere with reddish clay (not present in Northern Europe afaik) nor I want an old and busted look so I guess I fucked up with too much sienna.
I don't know if I should go with darker oils and try to cover up or try to clean it somehow, but if I rub it more I fear the varnish and paint will come off
>>5931587
I like it and with the weathing it will look quite good, but isn't the paint too green? I don't know about wwI paints but the builds I've seen tend to be more brownish. Not saying yours is wrong, but it looks off to me

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>>5933055
That's a Tunnan right? I think I have like three of those lying around since I was a kid, really cute little chubby thing.

>>5933442
Many tanks from that era were A tan desert brown color, but a lot of them were a similar shade of green to mine. I'm not sure what the reasoning was for either color but I like the green better

Does anyone else feel like that their models can never be good enough?

Sure, a few years ago, the ones I made looked like shit but even now, where I can honestly say that they're decent enough to be compared with premade ones, I always find small details that bug me.

And that goes so far that I trash that model.
I'd say, I built around 20 since 2010. Of those only 6 survived. That can't possibly be the norm, can it?

Any tips to avoid eternal unhappiness?

I have a sheet of decal paper for some decals I'm gonna do and I wonder about white decals.
Can I do them with an inkjet printer?

>>5933615
>Take one full step back
>Squint
>That's how normies see your models

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Got some discoloration under the decals. Could microsol eat through a coat of future and the paint underneath?

What can I do?

>>5933622
Unless you have a printer with white ink, no. You need white decal paper, I don't remember the process but it's on YouTube. Also take into consideration that homemade decals are thicker than pro made
>>5933678
Never used future so I don't know, but for your problem either wait a day to see if it's still there or paint it green again with a fine brush

>>5933622
Nah, cant do white without a special printer.

>>5933678
>>5933690
I hit it with a little more sol and its gone for now. Seems to have been glue or something. Hopefully itll stay gone. I fucking hate decals

>>5933462
>cute little chubby thing
yeah, for a thing designed by a nazi

When in the painting order does one typically attach the tracks? After decals before weathering?

>>5933815
Nazis are cute

>>5933678
It's silvering. It occurs when there's air trapped under the decal.

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Sturmtiger guy here with some rather bad news. It seems that I won't be able to finish the figures and the tank's diorama in the near future, because I am in the process of relocating to another city and I don't want to damage what I worked so hard on by carrying it in my car.
The tank itself can be described as finished though and I am going to post a few pics later. Pic related is old.

>>5933907
I built and weathered the tracks separately (Friuls) and put them on just before final touches.
Really depends on the type of track though.

>>5933442
Thin your oils a lot and correct the tint with a few thin layers of filtering.
A color wheel or similar may come in handy to predict the outcome, although I'd use raw umber (it's the Jack of all trades concerning washes and such)

>>5933442
Tarangus, 2013. A very small maker, so small that they supposedly subcontract squeezing styrene into moulds to Sword. But when it's that or an ancient Heller kit...

>>5933462
Yep, J29A/B. We'll see if I go for normal or Congo livery.

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>>5934577
It's a bummer that you have to put it on hold like that. I'm moving to another country in a month and I hope I'll be able to finish my 1/700 Yamato before that.
>>5934595
>Congo
Personally I don't think the camouflage pattern is that good looking but if it's done well it could probably look cool. It would also be interesting to see since it's not as common as the metallic version.

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>>5934683
It'd be shiny aluminium for Congo too. So pretty little crown roundels and a rather local wing, or go for the far less appealing UN logo, but get one of the few Swedish aircraft that has been in combat. And I guess not having to mask the yellow nose band.

I should be fine thinning my Revell enamels with Humbrol thinner, right?

>>5934577
Aw. Thats sad. It looks amazing.

>>5934886
right.

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And that's probably the point where I should stop fiddling, because the potential for improvements is starting to look quite anaemic next to the amount of shit which could be (even further) fucked up. Especially since it seems the plastic may be getting a tad brittle after all the white spirits used.

First ever attempt at weathering really. Further practice seems like it'd be recommended...

War Daddy II. An M4A1 built by the Lima Locomotive company of Lima, Ohio in July 1942. Went to Africa in Operation Torch (November) and ended up in G company, 3rd armoured battalion, 1st armoured regiment. At the battle of Kasserine pass in February 14th-15th 1943 it became the first intact Sherman taken by the Germans when the 1st company of the 501st Panzerabteilung got hold of it.

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>>5933690
>>5933697
Thanks famalams
Always wanted to do a C&C themed tank, but there are no Type-79 releases soon and I had to be satisfied with a boring-old Russian Kodiak from RotR

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>>5934683
>>5934899
Here's the Album;
http://imgur.com/a/Xjc3w

I even lit it up for you guys; I installed LEDs where the actual lights inside would be on the real thing, also one pic shows the lit-up radio set (hard to see there, it's better IRL)

Enjoy. I will update if I can continue to work on it.

>>5935261
Tasty stuff.

Fuck. Air brush compressor won't turn on. Its a harbor frieght but has worked great for months.

Fuck.

>>5935261
Nice to see you finally finished it, excellent work.

>>5935261
That's really fine stuff. Excellent work and it will be even better when finished

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Another clear coat of future drying right now. Weathering starts tomorrow.

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>>5935944
>mfw I will never be able to paint this well

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I'm here because you guys seem like the best people to ask about paint. Has anyone tried this? I'm painting a cell phone case solid white and I'm afraid the testors is going to remain too tacky so I have this clear coat laying around and thought it might do the trick (or it might ruin everything). Anyone know for sure that this is a bad idea? I have no idea what I'm doing lol

>>5936069
if the gloss coat it a acrylics then it's not durable.

>>5936074
>if the gloss coat it a acrylics

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you meant there

>>5935992
Would you be surprised if I told you its my first tank?

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What the fuck mineral spirits are eating through two layers of future and acrylic paint! Never had this problem before and im freakin out bad

>>5936135
Those two panels in the middle got the wash. Fuck it. No more pussyfootin around. Im slathering as much fucking future as I can on the rest of the model by hand. I cant afford for this to happen again

This shit is gonna keep me up all night

>>5936083
He meant if the gloss coat is acrylic. It looks like it's enamel (or at least some other type of oil based paint), so you should be good. Just a few tips about painting shit in general, an initial coat of primer can help get an even colour and can help with paint adhesion, you're going to want to thin that paint, which means getting some mineral spirits or other type of enamel thinner, which you'll need to use to clean your paint brush afterwards (I'm assuming your just using a regular paint brush), and lastly, there's a difference between the time when a paint is dry, and when it's cured. It will take a few days for that paint to cure, and you'll want to apply the gloss coat after it's finished curing.

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>>5936147
Oops. Forgot pic. Hopefully weathering can cover it up

>>5936135
>>5936664
Peculiar. Then again, I had significant issues with the plastic going brittle on me after hitting it with some white spirits, despite primer, paint, and two-three layers of varnish sitting in the way.

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Good evening!

I'd like to post a diorama I made that features epoxy resin buildings of mine along with 1:72 scale models.

I designed the War Factory and the Pillbox to scale with 1:35, but may actually be configured to suit 1:72 and even wargaming scale.

Kits used:
2x Trumpeter 1:72 T-55 posing as a light tank
2x Dragon 1:72 4x4 truck (jeep) posing as rangers
1x Trumpeter 1:72 AS-90 posing as an artillery tank.

:D

>>5935261
that's fantastic work!! great job!

>>5936671
Yea. I have no idea what to do. Hopefully this thick layer of future will help

>>5936696
Wow, that looks really cool.
Catches the C&C feel perfectly.

Now do a Mammoth tank in red.

>>5936726
You aren't using Windsor&Newton spirits by any chance? That's what I'm doing, wondering if they might brew their a bit more potent.

>>5936754
Mig enamel. Never had problem with W and N oils

So... Soviet logs. You know the ones. Any ideas for getting them right for different scales? At the minute I have a few 1/56 scale Soviet tanks that i wouldn't mind having a log for, along with a 1/35 scale SU-100. I have no idea what to use, outside of either buying one online, or carving up an actual chunk of wood; the worry then would be the grain being obnoxiously large. I also think dowel would be too regular.

>>5936767
For 1/48 (1/56 is close enough) there is this set of road signs:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-32509-Road-Sign-Set-Cartelli-Stradali-Kit-1-48-/181858920876

You could use it and take the telegraph poles from it as logs.
There should be similar sets for 1/35 too.

>>5936773
Hmm... Not a bad call actually.

>>5936135
You've made sure to let the future cure at least 48 hours before a minspirits/lacquer wash, right?

It's been almost 4 months since I last worked on something... anyone else have those times where you just can't strike up the motivation to work on anything? I have a backlog of nearly 50 kits, yet I don't want to build any of them. I've tried to start a few kits in the last few weeks, but every time I just lose desire to continue the build, or dread starting painting. This shit happens to me every single year, until one day I pick up a kit and finally get in the mood to paint and do all the weathering and whatnot. I have so many builds that I've just stalled over the years, some in the course of painting or weathering simply due to a loss in motivation.

>>5937001
It's so common, it's probably got its' own name

>>5936967
Only 24 for the second coat. Probably about 48 for the bottom. Never had this problem before.

I slapped on a thick layer and im gonna let it cure for a few days. Maybe a week if I can stand it. At least where it rubbed off kinda looks like chipping. Guess this is a good argument for priming in black

>>5937001
idk, i just accepted that i can't build stuff all the time because of the motivation problems you described.

Once in a while i get in the mood to build/paint and then i do it for a few weeks/month and if not then i try at least not to buy more kits. If i can finish a project during one of these "hobby phases", great. If not.. next time.

>>5937006
>>5937014
I think it's just very common to burnout so to speak with this kind of hobby, especially considering the amount of time you have to invest in order to get anything done. Could take days to simply build a kit, and even longer to paint. Potentially hundreds of hours can be spent working on a single kit depending on the size / scale.
That's one reason why I've tried to move towards smaller scale kits like 1/72 and 1/700, where the detail is much less, as is the parts count, but also the time it takes to build / paint.

>>5937042
Its true for most hobbies though.

I started to play paintball a few years ago. At first i went there (the paintball-place) every weekend. Then it became every 2 weeks, then once a month.

This summer i played like 2 times. Its still fun and i still see myself as a paintball player (i even bought some new stuff in spring) but i also realize i don't have to do it all the time to get enjoyment out of it.

>tfw afraid to get an airbrush+compressor in case i give up the hobby

do you think i could use the airbrush for non-hobby stuff?

touching up cars or something?

>>5937077
>touching up cars
no

but you can paint other stuff with your modelling airbrush. Like general carry things or nails.

>>5937134
You can also just paint with it.. like canvas paintings.

>>5937077
I do my girlfriends nails haha. But she never lets me do cool things like black basing and tank camo patterns

>>5937149
I did RAF blue and green for mine in a camo pattern once. Not many people recognised it though unfortunately

Tamiya tank dude here. I rushed and put more wash on the tank to the same effect: burned right through the primer. The future HAD to have dried by now. I cant stand the waiting.

If by tomorrow theres still an issue im just going to cover it with a clear laquer. I try to avoid lacquer because normally that burns through too but at this point im out of ideas.

Also doesnt help that this was a 90 dollr mode and now theres a slightly uneven thick coat of future on it.

This is so upsetting.

>>5937680
Also want to add that I tested it with regular oils and had the same result. Never seen this and I cant figure out why its happening. White spirit should t bother the paint at all regardless of a protection layer

>>5936239
Thank you so much

>>5937685
If worst comes to worst you could awlays strip it back down to the primer.

Mineral spirits seem to be a good choice for that.

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>>5936729
thanks dude. I'm still figuring out how to go about making soviet heavy tanks and mammoth tanks...

I could always scratchbuild them then cast them in resin like I do my structures, but that takes a lot of work, and I'm not sure my clients will buy them (takes a lot of CAPEX for molds and stuff) and I might not get my mold investment back.

However, some guy in deviant art named defibulator seemed to have bought a kit that may approximate a mammoth tank (see pic) and I can always kitbash an IS-3 to look like a red alert heavy tank I suppose :)

*photo by some guy named defibulator on deviant art.

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>>5938415

should I go about the scrathbuild - cast in resin method, it seems pepakura models will be useful for prototyping, given the angular nature of the mammoth tank.

>>5938415
Looks like this tank here:

http://www.mech9.com/2011/12/135-uc-hard-graph-efgf-m61a5-main_7.html

I think its kinda hard to get these days, but i might be mistaken.

>>5938419
>ttp://www.mech9.com/2011/12/135-uc-hard-graph-efgf-m61a5-main_7.html

whoa! thanks dude! I think that's it! now my quest begins....

>>5937680
can you show us exactly what kind of mineral spirits you're using? As well as the names of each paint in each layer?

I have a hobby store near by and some spare cash. I can go replicate your process and find out what's gone wrong + try to come up with a solution.

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>>5938472
Sure. In order:

>tamiya fine white primer
>preshafing tamiya acrylic flat black
>mig ammo green moss acrylic
>mig ammo green moss acrylic mixed 1:5 with mig ammo stone grey for panel highlights
>green moss mixed with tamiya flat black for shadows
>2 airbrushed layers of future
Then problem starts.

Wash is mig enamel brown wash for green vehicles. Wiped with damp mineral spirit qtip. Issue persists with standard oils too. Never seen that.

>1 thick handbrushed layer of future
Problem still persists. Mostly around rivets/raised areas. Never had problems with future sticking like that

Finally I airbrushed another layer of future on last night. Im not gonna touch it for three days. Maybe work on a base.

I figure you lot are the best to ask this: How on earth do you weather red? Usually I'd go for some nice rusty chips, some scratching, and some grime streaks, but rust won't exactly show up on red. I'm tempted by bare metal but I fear it'll look daft to do a heavily weathered mini with bare looking metal beneath red paint.

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>>5938739
As an extension of that, I've found this image through some Googling. How would you go about achieving a look like this? Metal base colour, chipping fluid for the worn down red, then do a load of pigments and such on top?

>>5938739
Do black streaks?

>>5938718
>klean strip

Maybe you should try artist grade mineral spirits like Gamsol. Maybe the formulation might not be as harsh and penetrating.

>>5938988
I think its klean strip. Never had a problem before but I guess ill go to blick and check it out

>>5938991
Look for Gamsol.

Not sure if Odorless mineral spirits just masks odor, or if the formulation is actually less harsh than even artist-grade mineral spirits.

Have to investigate further.

>>5938998
>>5938718
I think it's most likely the odourless variant of the mineral spirits. I dont really have time to document it, but you can take my word for it that the odourless and the regular spirits have different effects on paint

In my experience, regular can dissolve tamiya enamel, whilst odourless cannot. It just pools at the bottom, doesnt assimilate the paint and becomes pebbly.

I've used Klean Strip mineral spirits for thinning enamels for years. Never ran into any problems using them. I never use it to make washes or anything though, I only use stuff like MIG / AK washes.

Mineral spirits can definitely attack acrylics though if given enough time, it's not advisable to use it heavily to clean up a wash. I don't know what exactly MIG / AK / etc. use to thin their enamel washes, but I wish I could buy some of it because from what I've seen it doesn't tend to attack acrylics easily.

>>5939024
Is there a difference between hardware store-grade and artist grade mineral spirits, or is it just between odor and odorless?

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Well, I think I got the problem locked down. No matter what any raised surface that any oil/spirit touches wears off. I bought fancy ass white spirit for 15 bucks a bottle and theres little difference. Even just a light wipe with a qtip takes it down to the primer. The extra future is not helping. At least im not seeing any wear to the paint in the middle of panels, but it sucks that im getting this reaction on raised panel details that im trying to highlight with the wash.

>>5939297
You can always use something like Purple Power, douse the entire model in it and take off all the paint and restart. It won't damage the plastic.

>>5939346
I might have to. We'll see how it goes

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>>5939297
Show us a picture of that fancy-ass white spirit you bought.

Maybe you should try those Mig/AK washes, or try those water soluble Windsor & Newton oils.

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>>5939639
The mig washes are what strted this whole thing. Never had a problem making my own withe klean strip.


Finished up one side and im happy enough with it. The only parts that had issues were the raised rivets and a few other small spots I can probably work with.

The red/white stripes are tamiya paints and didnt encounter the issue at all, not even on rivets. I dont think Ill use mig paints again if I can afford not to

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Nice airbrush work.

No I'm not kidding. That camo was masked/airbrushed.

>>5940910
Do you think he used an entire PSI of pressure there?

>>5940910
Goddamn

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>>5940910
Oh god, spoiler tag that shit or something.

>>5939746
Looks pretty good but it would be nice if the picture wasn't upside down.

Do any of you guys ever try traditional art? Watching some oil painting vids on youtube and I feel a lot of you guys would be great at this

Is it redundant to use primer on areas covered by Mr Surfacer?

>>5941231
I used to do oil painting, but lost interest in it after a while.

>>5941364
yes.

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>mfw I see this guy giving advice on how to do ambush camo on late war German WWII AFVs.

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Just wanted to bump this thread with this photo I liked.

Hey guy! Just wondering if you can use regular plastic glue for styrene or if you need something else.

>>5941582
His camo pattern is correct though. Paint is thick and there are no washes or anything, but camo is fine.

>>5942212

Yes.

If you aren't sure, try gluing 2 pieces of sprue together and not actual parts.

>>5940910
>>5941582
I think I know where you got those pics. Intscalemodeller?

I posted a thread in that forum asking for tips how to do a nice ambush camo, and that guy posted those pics and told me how he did it. I politely told him I'd want to do a nicer ambush camo than that, hoping others have a good technique on how to do hard edge camo schemes.

My thread got deleted and was given a warning by a mod because apparently I was too rude.

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>>5942355
Top kek. Why even hang around those hug boxes? Except to see some scale model gore that is.
Also, aren't normal people able to see that their model isn't that good compared to others? Pic related is a Panther I fucked up before.

>>5942267
>fine
>jagged as shit edges
>fine

ok

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Who reviews the reviewers?

>How does the kit compare with the real thing?
>Some minor shape issues have been identified within the cockpit canopy shape and the intake.

>Are there any glaring errors?
>None identified at this time.

Minor.

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Looking at the wings while the cockpit cures up before the washing.

No guide pegs, but large, matching ejection marks. Well, I won't have to be very neat about hitting those like F22 hit Katanga's air force.

>>5942537
And that Panther still looks nicer than the FUBAR ambush camo Tiger II.

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Why preshade when is disappears under two-three layers of camo paint? why not use postshade directly?

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>>5943723

>>5943833
in fucking deed.

>>5943723
if your preshading is being covered, you're spraying your colour coats too opaquely for the technique

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Cockpit in place, fuselage and wings glued together. Ok fit, and the lack of guide pins was entirely manageable.

I probably should have remembered the seat belt before doing this though.

Front wheel well was a bugger to get in place if you tried one side at a time, since it had no guides and didn't really follow the curvature at the bottom of the fuselage very well. Luckily I found a tip online, glue the fuselage first, then use some blue tac on a stick to insert it though the nose.

Does anyone have any experience with AK's chipping fluid? I'm trying it out on some test pieces to get a feel for it, and it's just peeling the entire layer of paint off in huge chunks when I brush over it with water. I've applied it exactly as instructed, so I'm not too sure what i'm doing wrong.

>>5946815
What kind of paint are you using?
Tamiya, Vallejo, Revell, sonething else?

>>5946815
How much did you put on?

>>5946815
Don't brush over it with water, just take a damp, semi-stiff paintbrush to do the chipping.

>>5946815
I'm the Löwe/btr anon, I used mig ammo heavy chipping (I suppose that all chipping fluids work the same way) but there's a small chipping version, and didn't have that problem, more like l got less chipping that what I wanted.
Regardless of brand and version the key factor is time. The more you leave it dry before painting on top/scrapping it will determine how much "chipping" you can get. For the sand effects I left it 15 min to dry before using a brush and water to chip it.
How much and how you apply it also matters ("uniformly" airbrushed or clouds that the liquid from when brushed will decide if an area can be chipped or not).
So maybe you put too much, didn't leave it to dry enough or put too much energy while scrapping it

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Gettin there. Setbacks aside this is going well.

>>5926325
Back for more- one of you mentioned that when considering what to build the evaluation should be by kit rather than by brand. Where is a good place to find out if a kit is worth it's salt? OP resources seem to be mostly about the doing, but not so much on the purchasing. I also hopped around some of the sites google turned up but saw a lot of pictures with not a lot of quality review.

>>5947606
scalemates.com

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Does anyone of you guys own one of the Ammo or AK books with camo schemes like pic related?

I checked a couple of reviews and they all seem to be positive... i also checked if i can find them as pdf but had no luck so far so i'm still not sure if they are worth their price.

Any opinions on the matter of these books are welcome.

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Just made a gravel trailer for my truck. I was gonna fit the tarp over it but the rocks were already in place so fuck it. The thing weighs about 10 pounds and it's an mpc kit so it's gonna stay there for a while

>>5948240
Was pretty sure I was about to get trolled with furry porn, but pleasantly surprised. Thanks!

>>5948592
its basically THE website you need to know.

>>5947012
vallejo
>>5947048
Two thin airbrushed coats, as instructed on the bottle.
>>5947061
that didn't seem to do much, but I'll try that again.
>>5947141
Do you have any pictures to go with the descriptions? I'm aiming for quite a heavily worn look (I was the guy who asked about heavily weathering red here >>5938750 ) but the peeling is just too much. It also results in folded over paint that's just unappealing, and will fuck with pigments.

>>5948623
If you put on a whole coat of chipping fluid, of course its gonna come off in big pieces. I just dab small bits on

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>>5948637

>>5948637
That's.... Not how it works

>>5948531
I own the AK 1945 german camo book. For the price it's mostly worth it, as it's got some real interesting camo variations. The patterns of real, built vehicles are based off of real photos.
If you have some money to spare, go for it. If not, the books are not essential for good camo work.
Let's see if I can post some examples for you tomorrow or so.

>>5948623
Most likely it's the paint.
Vallejo (at least model color) paint has a component that makes it "rubbery", so a small chip tends to pull off more than expected. Try using either Tamiya, Mig or AK paints, or use a toothpick for scraping the paint off, rather than a brush. Don't know if model air has that problem though.

>>5936116
>he rubs it in
what a dick

>>5949516
If it makes you feel better he ran into lots of problems and half the thread is about his failure

>>5948539
this is the one of the most uninteresting scale models i have ever seen...

>>5950674
why is it uninteresting? because its a civil vehicle?

>>5950674
I think its kinda neat. Id love it if I was a truck driver. Id love to build a kit of my work vehicle but no one makes a 2008 chevy suburban kit

>>5950674
OP here. I give you that because the Kenworth was the first model kit I ever made, but the trailer I made the best that I could out of it. The thing was in the clearance rack at the hobby store for 10 bucks, so I could either take a shot with MPC at the expense of near nothing, or I could buy an AMT trailer which I knew would be shit from previous experiences for 50 bucks.

>>5950803
Thanks man, I appreciate it.

sup /toy/, i'm coming from /tg/ to ask-

Where can I find a 1/48 (roughly) scale Humvee to convert? For a Wargame, I want to make a squad of Brotherhood of Steel (from FO:Tactics) in a hummer, and it would be around the right size. (10-13 cm long is what I'm looking for)

I'm not seeing many that are the right size. Paint doesn't matter, as I will repaint it.

Where should I look?

>>5951000
Tamiya makes 3 diverent hmmvw variants in 1/48.

regular version:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/134322-tamiya-89790-u-s-modern-4x4-utility-vehicle

cargo version:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/133499-tamiya-32563-us-modern-4x4-humvee-cargo-vehicle

grenade launcher-version:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/102645-tamiya-32567-4x4-utility-vehicle

(They don't call these kits Humvee because of legal reasons to avoid paying fees)

These kits should be fairly cheap. I picked up a couple of the cargo variant a while ago for 9,99€ each. You shouldn't pay more than 15 i'd say.

>>5951010
Effectively, I'm looking to make a FO:tactics squad, and I'm looking for something to be the vehicle I'm torn between the APC (some sort of conversion would have to be done), the Hummer, and the Tank (an M4 Sherman)

looking at the quality of the tamiya models i have bought in the past, I'll probably go with a Hobby Master Sherman.

>>5951030
Hobby Master is diecast, isn't it? That would be harder to convert.

Tamiya 1/48 vehicles are really good (because none of the molds is older than 2004. In comparison, some of their 1/35 kits are like 40+ years old)

>>5951040
By 'convert' I mean 'make it look like the tank from Tactics.' Mostly painting, etc. And I didn't know it was diecast, just browsing ebay.

Also, I'd want no crew or exposed interiors, so I'm now leaning a bit more to the Sherman.

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MIG once again taking something that has no issues, giving you less product, and jacking up the price while claiming its "revolutionary." Ah yes because using standard oils from a tube is such a difficult task that it requires a special applicator.

Don't fall (((Jimenez))) tricks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X74TTAb3ZPw

>>5951245
At the price of not even 3€ for one of these i don't see the point of your outrage.

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Sculptin that styrofoam. Gf gettin mad

So how do you work with Styrene anyways? Make a mold, melt sprues and pour it into the mold?

>>5951465
Depends on what you have and what you want to turn it into. I mean all these injection moulded kits are polystyrene, so most of what we do here is working with polystyrene. (No, you don't work with the styrene monomer.) Getting it to flow properly in a mould seems to require a lot of pressure though, so casting it at home seems unlikely, there's a good reason why the really small makers stick to resin and vacuum shaping.

>>5951419
fuck styrofoam. Use insulation foam or something Less noisy and easier to clean as well.

>>5951259
true. even cheaper than tamya's wash.

>>5951481
If I wanted to make a tank cannon out of polystrene sprues, for example. Or is it mostly just whittling down sprues into small tools for adornment?

>>5951245
when is it coming out?

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>>5951491
Just find a tube, rod or dowel of the right diameter.

Old bits of sprue are hard to make anything that isn't really small form, since we're largely limited to cutting, grinding, etc and gluing. For serious work people will usually buy sheets, profiles, etc instead to use.

Of course, there's always some wizard out there who can McGuyer shit out of effectively nothing.

>>5951491
>>5951518
This.

You dont scratchbuild by melting down sprues and forming it into other things lol.

>>5951495
Check the website

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>building model
>one element wont fit in place
>check out few times but there's no way to place it there
>check out reference photos
>assembly instruction is wrong

>>5949323
>Let's see if I can post some examples for you tomorrow or so.

That would be nice of you.

>the books are not essential for good camo work.

That i know. I just like to have nice books with great pictures i guess.
My main concern is that the overall quality would be mediocre compared to the price and/or that all i can find inside the book would be available on the internet anyway.

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>>5953132
At least you found out in time.

Worst I've had there recently was the instructions for some extra photoetch telling em to remove bits form a part of the main kit, parts that don't seem to exist in the first place. That was easy.

Now then, on to drilling holes for the pitot tubes, because the wings as they are don't contain as much a s a hint of where they're suppsoed to go (despite them being part of the kit, not something in the photoetch)..

>>5953132
ALWAYS use reference material. I built a model by using only the instructions once. Hobbyboss 1/350 U-boat. The railings and camo were wrong. How could they not check that shit? NEVER trust instructions.

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Man, that's a tiny clear piece they want glued to the gun sight. I wonder what the hand symbol next to it in the instructions mean.

>Scratch build

...oh

>>5953726
smaller, single item pieces are super easy to scratch build. There is a limit of course, but I've found the smaller it is, the easier it is.

Worse comes to worst you can just use clear acetate or vaccuformed packaging plastic.

>>5953929
Yeah, I fished a clamshell pack out of the trash and cut off a small rectangle. Not too bad.

Then it turned out that as small as the sight was, it was still much too tall to fit under the canopy. Some severe cutting down of the underside later and I can just about squeeze it in, assuming I put it was back form where the instructions seem to point. Oh well, I think my placing is more proper anyway.

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Like frosting a cake. Im not very good at that either


>gf mad at me using a butter knife

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>>5953183
Delete this picture.

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>>5954127
As always, Sd doesn't know shit.

None of the J29 in Congo were lost to enemy fire (though one pilot nearly had his head shot off at one point).

White Gustav was used for target practice after a hard landing, it wasn't worth the bother fixing it since he planes were about to be scrapped anyway (the rest were blown up when the mission was over, none returned to Sweden).

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>>5948623
I will post them with a small description. This was based on a new dusting technique done by mig (I don't know or care if he invented it but him using it was the first time I saw it so I will refer to him about it)
First pic is what I used to make it. Basically consist on using the chipping fluid as a way to make patchy dust accumulations as a base for heavy dusting. I suppose that the part that interests you is only related to the fluid application but I'll post the whole thing in case others are interested

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>>5954163
First the chipping fluid applied with a brush so I could make "clouds" and patches. I left it to dry about 10 mins if i remember well, atleast until it doesn't look too liquid. Work in whole surfaces, as in "top", "left" or whatever so the application is uniform. In this case beacuse grime and dust falls almost everywhere. But if it's only for chipping maybe working by panels or smaller areas of interest is better

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>>5954166
Layer of enamel dust effect airbrushed. Left to dry for 10 minutes more or less. The more you leave it the less it will chip

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>>5954171
With an old brush and water I did the chipping, you can use a toothpick to scrap depending of the shape or area you need, but be careful. It works with enamels and acrylics using water (don't use anything else to scrap the paint) and all the paint residues got trapped by the brush. The edges are firm with no peeling. I don't know what could go wrong but maybe post some pics and I will try to help, anyway as always make tests on scrap pieces trying different times of drying.
I was going to post the rest but meh, after this comes a super thin layer of dusting effects airbrushed and pigments

>>5954189
Thanks for those. I'll give it another shot tomorrow on my test piece, and I'll try to take some photos to show my process. I might try letting the paint coats cure for far longer.

>>5951491
The majority of people make objects out of it out of styrene sheets, but some people melt styrene into molds or flat sheets to save cash

>>5951245
I'm usually a bit cynical about these types of products, but these appeal to me. A normal tube of artist oil paint should last a lifetime for modelling purposes, so less quantity at a reasonable cost and with the convenience of being pre-thinned and with a dedicated brush seems pretty good to me. Also no need to wait for the excess oil of the paint to absorb into a cardboard pallet.

Hey /toy/ fairly new here but had a quick inquiry on a model set. CoasterDynamix hasn't made a good steel type set in nearly 5 years and their prices have inflated much on the wood type sets since 2013. Is there any other company besides them that make realistic steel roller coaster models, preferably ones with inversions? Thanks!

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How hard are painting aircraft? I have been on a bit of a hiaatus with armor, but I wouldn't mind building a MiG-25 or MiG-31.

>>5955208
Do you own an airbrush?

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About ready for primer. Getting the seat belts in with the cockpit already in place wasn't as bad as it could have been.

>>5955262
What happened to the paint?

>>5955353
Slapped on a bit to see how the filler was doing.

Then as I kept working, well, it turns out the primer Vallejo put out to go with their metal colours is damn fragile.

Anyone ever use future for mud puddles?

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First coat down. The primer really like it in the paint cup, gotta pull that needle way back before it goes anywhere. The Al paint on the other hands runs for the hills first chance it gets.

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Finally making some progress on my Yamato, although she doesn't look like much right now.
What happened to all the other ship builders?

>>5956055
>although she doesn't look like much right now.

Currently in better shape than the real one I'd say.

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>>5956085
The US Navy didn't have to bully her that hard.

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>>5956094
Half-assed covers get blown.

>>5955231
Yeah I do

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>>5956085
kek

Holy shit building a diorama is hard.

>>5957797
I can (kinda) imagine. I think I'll wait with that for a while. Though there is that model which I think would greatly benefit form it in the stash...

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>>5956055
Noob present. Learned a fair amount from this build, and have enjoyed it. Probably will get some more equipment and take the next one seriously.

>>5957830
I cant really id the ship. Is it German?

>>5957824
Twisting wire into barbed wite is kinda neat though. Hopefully all this time/money will be worth it

>>5957841
1:700 Hasegawa South Dakota.
I also have a pair of Revell 1:114 U-Boots. 212-A, and 214. They were in the clearance section.

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>>5957860
Unstarted subs.
Also, for the SoDak I do have the conn assembled, just not attached yet.

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Hi /toy/, I got directed here from the WIP thread on /tg/.
I'm currently trying to assemble my first scale model, a Dragon StuG III Ausf. F, and I've ran into a bit of an issue.
Assembling wheels was fine, but when it came time to start looking at suspension I noticed that the first and last idler wheel mounts have a small ridge to attach the wheels (left part in the pic) but the inner idler wheel mounts do not (pictured on the right) so I can't actually fit the wheels on them.
I'm not really sure what to do here, should I just file/cut a ridge into the inner mounts so the wheels fit on?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

>>5957889
There must be a reason for the ridge. Can I see the instructions? There might be a difference with the front and rear wheels.

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>>5956055

been building gunplas for years, i just started my 1:350 tamiya musashi today, its a very long road to go.

How do i do about wooden deck? Should i get timber sheets and trim it myself or brush wood colored paint on it? I kinda want to avoid ordering the wooden deck stickers.

>>5957908
Does it have in moulded wood surface?

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>>5957900
This is the page that has instructions regarding the wheels/suspension.
It's a nip model, but on step 3 (which is the one about mounting wheels) there doesn't seem to be any extra instruction besides the visuals.
In step 2, part B14/B13 is the mount that has the ridge, whereas part B11/B12 is the mount without the ridge.
In step 3 it directs me to mount part C (which are the idler wheels assembled in step 1 from B18/B17) on all the idler mounts (B14/13 and B12/11 alike), so it's the same wheel. Without the ridge, the wheel doesn't attach because the spoke is too thick for the insert on the wheel.

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>>5957912
>GuP kits
I hate how they just ignore historical accuracy (like asking you to remove the side escape hatch because the GuP animators were too lazy to put it in, thus it's not cannon). I'm just going to turn my Tiger P into a regular Tiger P

That aside I believe the solution is to remove this little flange. It doesnt show up on the instructions and doesnt really make sense as to why it's there since all the wheels are the same.

>>5957911

yup, "plank" texture

>>5957923
The issue is without the flange, the wheel doesn't fit on, that's what I was referring to as the ridge, sorry if I was confusing.

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>>5957912
You mean the road wheels (the idler wheel is the one called A) are only sitting on this bit? That seems odd. Something in the way inside the axis hole in the wheels? Or may the axle be just a tad too alrge, with

Also, when did Dragon get their hand son the GuP license?

>>5957932
Oh, sorry, that's my bad, road wheels yes.
Yeah, they're only sitting on the small bit, the small bit that you marked on your picture fits snug on the axis hole, whereas the one on the right in the picture is far to large to fit inside.

>>5957928
Didnt the Musashi have a dark camouflaged deck?

>>5957931
I'm not really getting it. Can we see how the wheel does/doesnt fit on both?

>>5957932
As regard to the Dragon thing, dunno, but Dragon has their logo on the box along with Platz Hobby.

>>5957932
>>5957944
PLATZ got the licence, they then reached out to dragon for the kits themselves.

>>5957941
Nevermind anon, it seems I'm just a complete retard.
The part on the right does actually fit the wheel, it's just a very tight fit that requires a decent amount of pressure and there was a bit of excess glue blocking the axis hole.
I'm off to commit sudoku out of shame, thanks for all your help anon.

>>5957974
All good. Show us when you're finished. It'll be good to have some content here.

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>>5957985
Sure thing anon, it's still pretty far from completion though.
Here's a pic of my little workshop set up in my garage. I've also got a T-34/85 I have to build after this one, which I'll also post.

>>5957974
Well I thought things seemed like they'd end up much too far out otherwise.

Anyway, I'll be starting on a Dragon Pz4 F2 tomorrow, so I guess we'll be going kinda side by side here for a bit.

>>5957997
>>5958053
I'm in the process of moving and setting up a new work space, so nothing from me. Not like I've really been building much recently anyway

>>5958053
Nice.
I finished up suspension and put on the return rollers, the connection was a bit flimsy with those so I decided to let the glue dry proper before doing anything else, I'll probably work a few more hours on it tomorrow.

>>5955681
anon what aluminium paint did you use?

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More fun than a barrel of jet fuel, a flying barrel full of jet fuel!

Basically a nice, simply, quick little kit. But then we get to ejection plugs that sit right in the way, almost complete lack of guide pins, etc. Flash was odd, not a terrible lot that needed to be dealt with, but what was would in some cases get close to a bloody flange.

But it's a really tiny maker coughing up short run kits (that seem destined for Special Hobby's catalogue when Tarangus has sold their ruin) of stuff that basically no one else is doing, so I'll forgive them and hope they scale down their JA37 to 1/72 soon.

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>>5958764
Vallejo's "Metal Color" series Aluminium on top of the associated black primer.

Looks pretty nice, but quite fragile. Goes on well by brush too.

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>>5958766

>>5955681
>>5958776
Vallejo MC paints are great but Vallejo primer has always been incredibly shitty, can't sand it and it takes forever to cure properly.

It's worth looking at UMP Primer/Badger Stynylrez if you want a decent non lacquer primer.

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>>5958930
>non lacquer
>primer

>>5957932
im vagely following along with this.
so youre sure all the wheels are the same then? its not like 2 are for the front and back only and the others fir on the fatter ones?

only solution I can think of is getting some sprue, shaving it to size, and then gluing an extra bit on the end of the suspension to make the thinner bit.

have you looked around at other peoples build threads on the internet, see if they ran into the problem? that's what id do.

>>5958930
>Vallejo primer has always been incredibly shitty
afaik is more for miniatures and other shit that don't have big flat surfaces. i'm using it for minis(/tg/ and others) and never had any problems. when i'm painting normal models, i lightly sanding all flat parts with fine grit sandpaper.

> takes forever to cure
24h is more than fine.

>>5958949
>afaik is more for miniatures and other shit that don't have big flat surfaces

The one I used is the one that appears to be specifically for use with the metal colors range, coming in the same style of bottle and so on. So you'd think it should work. But, well, wasn't brilliant, though I do see plenty of room for it to be worse as well.

>>5958930
>Stynylrez
Yeah, a bottle of black there seems like it'll be on the menu whenever I go for another bare Al plane.

>>5958948
He worked it out, >>5957974

>>5958775
Looks great dude

>Mfw a good company finally gets a star wars lisence and theyre making a 1/35 at-at thats fuckhuge instead of anything that makes sense

Why even live

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>>5959024
>Dragon
>Good company anymore

>>5959033
>>5959024
Wait what? Dragon has a Star Wars license now?

>>5959024
Dont forget 1/144 x wings for some stupid reason

>>5959037
Well they kinda appear to have one, http://dragon-models.com/Star_Wars/Star_Wars_atat.html

Still, Bandai would be the main one, and they're making some reasonably sane things. 1/72 fighters and so.

>>5959033
I honestly can't even remember the last time Dragon released a kit that was interesting in the slightest. All they ever release is the same boring variations of Wehrmacht vehicles we have seen 1000x already.

They have made a few nice 1/32 aircraft in recent years, but even those are mostly inferior to other brands.

Then there's the whole dumbing down of their "smart kits" such as no longer including magic tracks, or photo etch, or metal barrels in most of their new releases. Also, their instructions are cheap garbage without color pictures for their camouflage, and rampant errors throughout.

Shame, because back in the mid 2000s -> 2011 or so Dragon was releasing some fantastic value kits.

>>5958930
>>5958937
I'm wondering how Vallejo primer will act like if you put a few drops of Future into the mix, or if you coat it with Future before sanding.

>>5959284
Yeah. It's a damn shame Dragon has gone down hill

How many projects at a time do people keep going at once? I tend to be a 2 project person so I can switch back and forth as things dry or I get fed up with one. I don't like having partially started kits lying around since things can get lost or broken, so I tend not to go above 2 unless it is a quick one.

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This is a lot of parts, some ridiculously small parts, and a lot of nubs to deal with. The extensive and in some cases more or less snapfit-positive guide lugs are a welcome change of pace at least.

That's most of the lower hull done, except for the wheels, as I'm still debating with myself whether I want to paint them in place or not.

>>5959023
Thanks.

>>5959657
I've yet to actually start up on a second build while the previous one is ongoing, but should I run into some long drying time or so that'll probably happen. But yeah, more than two? No bloody way, it tend sot be enough of a mess here with just the one.

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Mixin up some homemade mud. Never tried it this way but pretty happy with it

>>5959284
>Black Label
Hey they might be shit, but at least theyre interesting shit

Hello. What do I search for to get N Scale / T Gauge buildings? Are there actual lmodel makers that print out kits or will I need to scratchbuild everything?

Currently working on 1/16 tiger scratchbuild, will post lower hull (maybe with working dollarstore motor RC if you're lucky!) In the next 1-3 days when I add hatches, wheels & suspension and a redo of the drivers port <-- ( messed it up) you might even get a track or two but don't count on it

>>5960355
Not lower hull, just meant the hull

>>5959657
I have like 20 kits started

>>5959657
Currently have a Tiger 2, A M48 Patton and a Jagdpanzer 4 I need to redo the ambush (yellow is too yellow and many other factors) and a Luches scratchbuild.

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>>5953139
Sorry for taking so long, didn't have internet access. Picked a random page for you.

this thread has made me lose my erection. i cant imagine a hobby more gay than models. you guys must be so lonely.

Build the lower hull of that Pz4, very little flash or such, just a bunch of sprue/inlet gates.

Get started on road wheels and return rollers? Chunky rim of flash all around, and the latter having outright mould alignment issues. And a lot of the good parts previously have been form the same sprues as these.

>>5960669
You realize you're browsing a board where people actually jack off onto their anime toys right?

>>5960669
Sorry for having a hobby that we enjoy, that makes us happy and affects you in no way, shape or form. Now fuck off.

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>>5960712
>>5960759

Does anyone know what kinds of vehicles were used to clean up the Chernobyl exclusion zone? I know for sure a shit ton of BDRMs were used and various helicopters but I thought it would be pretty interesting if I made a Chernobyl BTR-60 or something.

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>>5960803
i marked something on pic related for you

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>>5960812
Red: BTR-70s
Green: BTR-60PUs

>>5960767
I knew as I was typing, but I'm a sucker for an excuse to bump.
>>5960803
Could be a cool project, lots of chances for extreme weathering.
>>5960888
imagine the fun you could have if they were safe to climb on/in... It'd be an incredible day[spoiler]week[/spoiler] of fun and project inspiration.

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>>5960923
Its not the only vehicle graveyard in the ex-su.. others are without radioactivity.

google for kharkov tank graveyard/scrapyard for example

>>5960712
>>5960759
thanks for the (You)'s suckers. these models are actually pretty cool. i love all things ww2

>>5960812
>>5960888
>>5960927
i dont understand why they havent salvaged all that steel

>>5960930
i case america invades they might want that steel in form of tanks already.

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>>5960930
because

I forget which airplanes have their tails cut and positioned at a certain angle where Russia can use their satellites to make sure that they aren't being used

>>5960927
my god it's beautiful
Sometimes I regret living in the UK, it's so expensive to go anywhere.

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>>5960927

They keep some pretty old shit

>>5960930
In the case of the Chernobyl vehicles you shouldn't have any problems understanding why.

As for other dumps, well, first they keep it just in place, and when that's done someone with enough authority to have them scrapped must care enough to order it, someone needs to organise things, you have to haul them off (two hundred tanks ain't something you just stuff in the trunk of a Lada), then carefully strip out everything that isn't steel (copper wiring in particular MUST go), chop them up to fit into the crucible, and finally melt them down, probably toss in some more alloying elements, and make new steel stock out of them. And all that work must come out to less than just getting some new steel, with enough margin to spare to make up for Homo Sovieticus having long been bred for a complete lack of initiative.

>>5960812
>>5960888
Ah thanks anon! I saw that picture too. I'm on duty right now but didn't have notice anything that's not a BRDM or an Mi-6.

All I want are 1/35 space marines for cool dioramas

>>5961473
The "54mm" one(s) from Inquisitor should be in the right ballpark.

>>5961488
>>5961473
Yeah, 54mm is roughly decent for 1/35.

>>5961473
I would also accept stortroopers/rebel soldiers

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MK Iv diorama is coming along. Ill add some puddles and more debris. Maybe a barbed wire fence.

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is there any law that forbids nazi swastika decals? I'm looking for a Bismarck 1/700 kit btw. Trumpeter any good?

>>5961616
Not in the free world theres not

>>5961643
Germany not free world?

>>5961616
Only in cucked countries

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>>5961988
>Germany
>free world

>>5962088
>implying Hitler gave them freedom

When you're legally required to answer the phone by saluting the dictator, you're not free.

>inb4 /pol/ says otherwise

Go back to your containment board, inbred.

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>continuing my first build, a StuG III
>Get to tracks
>"oh I guess they just clip together"
>They don't
>Ask a buddy who does models about it
>"Yeah you gotta glue each individual track segment, have fun."
>mfw 94 tracks on each side
There goes my afternoon

>>5962226
>immediately jumps to Hitler
Boy, you Germans are brainwashed. Enjoy your "refugees"

>>5961536
dragon have license for sw now, so maybe someday.

>>5962229
Some tracks have multiple parts per link.

>>5961988
Germany has literally more censorship for books than vatican state and china combined

>>5962226
>When you're legally required to answer the phone by saluting the dictator,

Source?

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>>5962229
At least with Dragon's magic track there's only minimal cleanup of the links. I have this waiting for me in the stash.

One thing I've found makes things a bit easier is to put down a strip of tape, sticky side up (held in place with a piece of tape at each end). This keeps the links in place as you line them up.
Then dabbing some Tamiya extra thin cement or so into the joints should be the easiest way of getting the glue where it's needed.

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Dragon's instructions certainly are a source of excitement.

Holes need to be drilled from the backside of hull plates to mount stuff? No need to say anything about that, you'll notice when you get there, after the hull has been glued together. That small handle there? Yeah, we're not going to tell you to put it there, or what part to use. You'll figure it out from wondering what those empty holes are for. And right/left-handed parts in sub-assemblies? We'll get most of them right for you. You'll notice which when you try to fit it all to the tank.

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Sorry, I don't know if I should ask it in this thread but I see no other suitable ones.

I want to buy a 1/6 scale MG42 and Stahlhelm for my T45 figure here which is 1/6 scale, because it's my gunfu and I have it modded in New Vegas.

Should I just buy any one off eBay from Hong Kong or are their scale weapon makers that I should know about and buy from them/their brand? Cheers.

i kinda want to do a diorama with 1/35 tamiya dinosaurs and some nazis. Thatd be dope.

>>5963003
Dino D-day?

>>5963003
Isn't there a site that sells nazi riding dinosaurs?

>>5963089
Find it and report back

>>5963279
http://eurekamin.com.au/news.php?newsid=EklZEuEuFATWHHLjGs

So I put a thin layer of pva glue and water over my dirt diorama and really love how much it looks like mud. How can I achieve this regularly? Ive heard a gloss coat but even heavy future applications dont get that kind of shine. Thick varnish? Gel?

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>>5962509
My Vk had tracks on runners. As well as locking pins on runners.

The tracks broke occasionally so I had to install them around the rigid, repaired sections.

I managed to assemble them in 4 hours, paint them in 3 and install them in another 3.

Might as well as built a 1/72 plane or something instead right?

>>5961538

Man that looks great. To be honest a WWI aircraft would look great overflying the tank.

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>>5957875
Is it a pretty old kit? It seems to be lacking in detail. Or is that level normal for Hasegawa 1:700 ships?
>>5957908
I chose to paint the deck of my Yamato dark grey like it was in the late stages of the war but I think it's possible to get a good wood-look with paint. I was fairly pleased with the painted deck on my Yamashiro that I built earlier, even if it wasn't perfect.

>>5963374
If you got the desired effect from pva glue and water then try pva glue and water.

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>>5963805
That dries and just looks like dry dirt. I want it to keep looking wet like pic reated

>>5963852
Lol is that enchanted arms on your shelf

I've stripped an old Tiger II that I built a few year ago and I'm thinking of giving it a red oxide paintjob, I'm thinking along the lines of a late war tank, recently finished/repaired and thrown out into service but I don't just want a bright red tank, I kind of like the half painted/unfinished look but I'm not very confident in my skills.

Has anybody got any good examples I can draw from? I'm not looking to copy I just need some rough ideas.

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>>5964455

>>5964659
Is that yours? The lower is beautiful

>>5964735
nope, just a pic from google which fit to his request

>>5964659
That's good, I like the odd wheels.

man I hate how expensive some kits are. It sucks cause their resale value drops to 0 literally as soon as youve built it. Not that I wanna resell its just frustrating that all value disappears after paying 100+ for a kit

>>5964866
Agreed. I'm looking at getting an Industria Mechanika kit but the amount of money I'd need to sink into one is upsetting.

>>5964868
>Industria Mechanika
Just had a look at their prices; really doesnt seem to bad for what they cast.

>>5964455
http://forum.axishistory.com/viewtopic.php?t=212485

>>5964866
All the fun comes from building it.. if someone just wants to buy a finished scale model there are plenty of companies offering just that.

>>5963852
Maybe try a gloss medium? Ive never used one but it might work

So tell me lads. I have a big model kit to build, going to be alot of small pieces and shit.

Is it really necessary to dunk them in warm soapy water and scrub them? I know it's suggested to remove the molding stuff or whatever it is but will it effect the model badly if you don't do it?

>>5966971
Depends on how much of it there is. Normally there's none, or as near as makes no difference.

>>5963696
It's a really old kit. The new hasegawa kits are much nicer, but the same can be said for any of the waterline series except for Tamiya, which has some pretty nice old releases too

>>5967336
I'm not sure, it's a Trumpeter kit. I've heard some manufacturers take steps to remove the molding shit, and some don't.

Surely though I could just build the model, and wipe it down with some isopropyl or something? I'm more concerned about fingerprints and things like hair and dirt.

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>>5966971

get an ultrasonic cleaner

>>5967647
Most modern manufacturers do remove it before they package it but it's not unnoticeable. If you're worried about it, you can just wash a single piece, towel it off and then check it against the rest of the pieces to see if there is a difference in the way it feels. Could save you the trouble.

Also isopropyl alcohol will embrittle polystyrene so...there's that also.

>>5966971
Might not be necessary, but it certainly doesnt hurt. It COULD make a difference

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>>5967777
Heavenly

Post your 1/72 jets. Havent done one since I was 13 and have never seen a really well done subject

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>>5968176
Well, you have >>5958775 and before that there was this thing I did as a quick warmup after not building shit for a long, long time, so not even panel lined.

>and have never seen a really well done subject

...yeah, I won't be much help there any time soon.

>>5968176
Probably because 1/72 planes is kinda a children scale thanks to its price.
Not saying that it can't be done properly, but most adults in the hobby prefer 1/48 for their planes i think.

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So the painting instructions say fedlgrau and dunkelgelb camo. The all-grey options in the kit are feldgrau all over, no dunkelgrau in the colours list at all. Shouldn't the grey be dunkelgrau instead? (This being 42-43)

Google just trips over feldgrau.com/net here.

>>5968284
"Feldgrau" is the color of the uniforms. No tank was painted in Feldgrau ever.

>>5968299
That does sound like what little I've been able to find elsewhere.

Dragon instructions...

>>5968312
Are they saying what kind of paint (like brand/company) you are supposed to use?

>>5968323
Ah, yes, looking those up could be an idea.

Aqueous Mr color H32, Mr Color 40, Model Master 1723.

The first is called feldgrau and is the very greenish tint that seems to be what that's suppsoed to be.

Second is called German grey looks like a dark, bluish grey. So, yeah, dunkelgrau.

And the last one is gunship grey and looks like the kind of medium grey that many early German tanks are depicted in today but which it seems probably isn't what dunkelgrau actually was.

So, yeah, this sounds like Dragon is basically flailing wildly, ie mostly ignore and go with the dunkelgrau sicne that's what's early to mid German tanks had for grey.

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Well, the gloss medium worked alright. But now the groundwork looks like it was molded out of chocolate syrup. I might start over and do a dry dirt base

>>5968410
Thtd suck to start over. More pics?

>>5968410
Use a matt coat in places?

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>>5968474
>>5968465
Added a little 'dry' dirt over the top to vary the texture. Already looking better

>>5968284
Panzer 4 F.2 1943 Kharkov Edition?

>>5969170
No, Panzer 4 F2(G), kit #6360

If someone was building a diorama full of cabling what would cables would you recommend to do it? Needs to look like someone tore the head off of a robot with power cables and pistons left dangling out.

>>5969351
Guitar strings