Scale Model General

>>5894621
WIP Flak 8.8?

>>5894640
Flak 41 platform, but for Rheinbote. On hold till I can get replacement parts.

>>5894643
Kitbashing?

WWII plane modeller here. Do people still buy reference books or am I just old fashioned? I really like the 'Detail and Scale" series. The internet is full of pictures but mostly they are of the modern restorations which sometimes are not the wartime configuration.

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>>5894730
No.

Thanks for the advice to get them straight from the manufacturer, got a Tiger II for half the price the store was gouging me for

>>5894790
what happened to the parts?

>>5894798
Tamiya cement bottle cracked.

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Now I have doubts over the Revell T-55 that is coming out next month.

>>5894949
Holly shit

>>5894949

Aren't there other T-55 kits in 1/72 anyway? I think at least Trumpeter has one.

>>5895067
I don't have access to 72nd scale trumpeter kits where I live.

>>5895090

Where do you live?
PST make a couple of T-55s.

>>5895090
>I don't have access to 72nd scale trumpeter kits where I live.

You're posting this on the internet. You have access.

>>5895285
While this is true, shipping cost is something to consider.
It just hurts if shipping is twice as expensive as the actual item.

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Wip of the tools. Wood and figures aren't my forte but I'm trying to improve. This is painted with oils and still needs some highlights but what do you think?
>>5894621
I thought it was a diy quadcopter from the thumbnail

>>5895496
Looking quite good. You hit the wood tone almost perfectly. Remember to color the metal parts too.
Graphite over black is my favorite way of doing that.

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>>5895496
>painting parts on sprue
>not removing mold seams
>shitty paint job

>>5895496
Looks nice, but why are you painting it on the sprue? Just get some blu tack and a toothpick / bamboo stick and stick the bottom to it, then you won't have to deal with cleaning up nubs / scratching the paint.

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>>5895625
Thanks, now that's drying it looks a bit darker/black so I'll probably do some dry brushing with grey or buff if it ends too dark.
As for the metal parts I did black primer and gunmetal pigments rubbed and buffed (pic related). I was inspired by sturmtiger anon (you?) about the black base and metallic highlights as I think it looks much better than painting it in metal and then doing shadows (and faster of course)
>>5895668
>>5895674
Cause I feel like it, all pieces are sanded in place and only need to be painted the little part left when I cut them out

Long time lurker here. I want to get into scale models, specifically armor. what would be a good starting model for me? I have no prior experience with models, but I've read some of the stuff in the OP.

>>5896423
How much money do you have to blow on a kit?

>>5896463
>>5896423
Another thing is what are you looking for, someone who likes German tanks may not find an Abrams to be enjoyable

>>5896463
>>5896487
For my first kit, I'd rather not go too high. I probably won't do too much in depth work on my first project. ~15 dollars for some WWII era armor would be perfect. Size range from 1:64 to around 1:32 perhaps?

>>5896749
Anyone here airbrush testors enamels? I'm airbrushing it on a model thinned with Testors enamel thinner (Red tin). 24-48 hours is the appropriate drying time right?

Anyone have any warnings or tips for airbrushing testors?

>>5896749
>$15
Find another hobby

>>5896749
Can't really afford any tank with that money. You could buy a 1/35 staff car though. Something like Tamiya's Jeep, Kubelwagen or Schwimwagen.

>>5896749
Zvezda 72nd scale T-34 and/or 85.
I don't think that any manufacrurer makes 64 scale armour.

>>5896761
>>5896805
There are great 1/48 and 1/72 tank kits that fall into that price range though

>>5896749
Zvezda BT-7
≈$30
Easy assembly, low parts count. Link and length tracks, best of both worlds (Indy link vs one piece). Subject has simple running gear. Paints scheme simple, only requires minimum of 2 colours, Russian green and black.

>>5894621
Does anyone know where I can find a T-23 turret in 1/16 scale?

>>5896749
If it has to be 1/35:

Get one of the old/classy Tamiya kits. Panzer 2 for example.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-35-Panzer-Kampfwagen-TAM35009/dp/B00061HJ3Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473149878&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+panzer+2

Yes, the kit is old and no, its detail isn't state of the art but its cheap, fairly simple to build and therefore good for beginners.

If you don't need necessarily need it to be 1/35:

Get one of the newer Tamiya 1/48 kits.
They are also easy to build, similar cheap and equally good for a beginner.

For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-BA-64B-Russian-Armored/dp/B00EEOCO5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473150262&sr=8-1&keywords=Tamiya+BA+64

https://www.amazon.com/U-s-Light-Armored-Car-Greyhound/dp/B000WOX57Y/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1473150065&sr=8-17&keywords=tamiya+1%2F48

Or you go for one of the thousands 1/72 kits.


Also keep in mind that you need some tools too:
Plastic glue (Tamiya extra thin or Revell Contacta Professional)
Wire Cutter/Hobby Clipper
Tweezers
X-acto blade/Hobby knife

You also need at least a basic brush and paint, depending on what exactly you are building.

>>5895679
Yeah, that's me. Especially the wire cutters are looking real good.
How do metal pigments compare to pencil graphite? Do they, like, have better adhesion or something?
Thinking about getting myself some jars.

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>>5896841
Completely forgot about 1/48

>>5896855
>30$
Where?

>>5896931
http://www.ebay.de/itm/ZVEZDA-3545-1-35-SOVIET-BT-7-PANZER-NEU-/391365142105?hash=item5b1f2e2659:g:vcAAAOSwLnlWmLsr

17€ + shipping

https://www.amazon.com/BT-7-Soviet-Light-tankers-Zvezda/dp/B01671RUEO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473152136&sr=8-6&keywords=Zvezda+BT-7

$31


http://www.ebay.de/itm/ZVEZDA-3545-Sowjet-Russischer-Leichter-Panzer-BT-7-WWII-Modellbausatz-1-35-/361372760276?hash=item54237eb8d4:g:xPAAAOSw9N1V2zdH

11€ + 9€ shipping


Do you even google?

What is the most accurate/detailed 1/72 armor kit

any price, Era or Nation i don't care

no resin kits

>>5896991
Dragon has some nicely detailed ones.

>>5896991
Flyhawk 's1/72 kits are pretty pimpin

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Is this supposed to be here? My airbrush is cooked and won't spray anything (air flows fine). I've taken it apart and cleaned it multiple times now and can't see any issues so I'm lost. This is all I could find but it might just be something I've never noticed while cleaning before.

Water just bubbles in the cup and it'll rarely splurt. Can't find anywhere where it could be clogged after cleaning it, even using a brush to see if I can find where there may be some dry paint but nothing shows up.

Have gone through many google suggestions but results stay the same. Am I just going to have to buy a new airbrush? Or is there a part I should try replacing?

>>5896749
1:35 tamiya sdkfz 222 is an easy kit, has basic PE and metal barrel so you can learn and it's cheap (around 20€). Unless you want 1:48, 1:72 or smaller forget about that price range as most kits average on 50 something and the "lower" ones 40. Search clearance sales, discount bins and stuff like that to learn.
Overall it's not an expensive hobby and quite rewarding, also depending on how much effort you want to dedicate it gives you most "bang per buck" in fun, hours and results.
>>5896927
The cutter is the only one made with more than pigments. It's painted with metallic acrylic, shaded and the metal highlights done with pigment. The others are only pigment over paint.
It gives you a cohesive general tone and quick application, I don't imagine anyone painting with a pencil a shovel for example, and a more dull metal look. The pencil is easier to control as applying pigments is messy, for example I had to clean and repaint a bit the color parts.
I would recommend to use black (matt or satin) plus pigment for big surfaces, the pencil for detailing or highlights and metallic paint if you want to give a richer look
>>5897018
That's a problem related with an obstruction. Either with shit that you should clean, parts too tight/loose or something broken.
I suppose that's the nozzle in your pic, it looked like that when you bought it?
If not it's broken as fuck and you can order a new one easily (look at the instructions. There's a part number list) without having to buy another airbrush

>>5895496
Looks good but you shouldve cut it off the sprue. What colors did you use?

>>5897023
>most kits average on 50 something and the "lower" ones 40.

Thats just not true.

There are literally hundreds of 1/35 kits for around 30 too. Zvezdas entire range for example. Tamiya stuff, Revell, Italeri and others.

>>5897018

The nozzle's fucked mate you've likely pushed the needle home a little too hard.

I've managed to do that on my NEO twice as I'm a bit of a cack-handed cunt. Strangely I've never had a problem with any of my Ching-chong-cheapies as their nozzles don't seem to be made of dust and good wishes.

It's a new nozzle, if you can get one, or a new brush for you now mucker.

>>5897023
>>5897034
I have only been airbrushing for a couple of months now so does sound like a newbie mistake. There are a couple places I can buy a spare from nearby luckily. Could that why I get bubbling?

>>5897053
>Could that why I get bubbling?

Probably. If the air can't get out through the nozzle it'll go through the cup.

>>5897026
I like to leave them there as it's easier for me to work on the sprue in this case. Depends of the position of the feed lines (don't know how it's called in English) and what I need to do with them.
The wood is done with amig "new wood" as a base, then a filter with burnt Siena oil and then a heavy wash with a mix of naple yellow, some Browns and black (a really dark brown sludge really). Maybe today I will give it a drybrush with light grey but that's pretty much it.
>>5897027
The ones I usually buy cost me around 50 and trumpeter "cheap" ones don't go lower than 34€ (which I include in the "around 40" part). I don't consider others because they are not worth the trouble and I prefer to save that money for a better kit. But people can do whatever they want with their money of course
>>5897053
Check for obstructions in the feed channel of the paint (the part between te cup and the nozzle), but that broken piece it's probably the cause.
>>5897023
I forgot to say that pigments adhere well, better if the surface is matt, but still needs some fixer to be sure. Also a coat of varnish if you want to handle them safely, but that will kill the texture and shine

>>5896915
Yeah, I've been looking at Tamiya and they seem great. I've already got most of my tools and materials, so I'll start there.

>>5897071
>I don't consider others because they are not worth the trouble and I prefer to save that money for a better kit.

I get that point entirely. But you are probably not a beginner like the guy that asked the initial question above.
There is no really a point in spending 40+ € for your first 1-5 kits, because as a very beginner the potential that these kits offer is just wasted

Post yer ships m8s

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>>5897123

Not started it yet (considering it's not even been delivered yet) but will this count?

I've been watching some wooden ship builds on various fora and fancied a go myself but I didn't want anything too massive nor, more importantly, too expensive. So I plumped for this as it's billed ass a good intro to wooden boat/ship building in miniature.

Too bad it won't get started for a while as it's relatively far back in the queue. With a PST KV-1E, a P-51D and at least one gunpla kit in the way.

I've also picked up Revell's 144th Flower Class corvette but I'm waiting for the Le' Arsenal etch set to come out for it which might not be until next year and I also need some references as the Canadian ones are different from the RN HMS Arbutus I I want to model.

>>5897145
Thinking of doing a shipwreck but not sure what kit to use

>>5897150

Why not use something like Revell's North Sea Trawler? It's a decent size (at it's weird 1/148 box-scale) but also pretty cheap (just over a tenner on Amazon).

>>5897018
In the future buy an airbrush that doesn't have nozzles that screw in. Having to unscrew the nozzle just makes them more vulnerable to damage. It also helps not to buy shitty chinese airbrushes. You might be able to buy a replacement part if you search the model number and everything, but it's probably not worth it. Get a nicer brush instead of wasting more money on something that's shitty.

Anyone know a decent online shop that sells custom dry-transfer decals at non-rape prices?

Sites I've found so far seem to be old and broken. Or astonishingly expensive. And none of them seem to accept Paypal, which makes me suspicious.

>>5897099
Yeah, that's true. But for a comfy beginning I still would recommend tamiya so he doesn't have to worry about poor instructions, etc. And looking reviews before buying other makers of questionable release reputation
>>5897150
If it's just a wooden ship, you could do the wreckage with wood sticks and cut shapes from balsa wood, instead of buying a whole kit, mainly because wood ships rot really fast and little is left after some years

>>5897321
>dry-transfer decals
dry transfers and decals are completely different

>>5897474

No. Dry transfers are a kind of decal, as are water-slides and stickers. If you are going to be pedantic, at least be correct.

>>5897659
>stickers
>decals
stay in the gookpla thread

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Today was a shitty day and so was my progress. Finished the tools but the jack I really half assed it cutting all the steps I wanted to do, but meh it's on the back and probably will end with some dust and mud. Tomorrow I want to do the filters but still haven't decided on the markings and the tactical number. Maybe I'll use a "F" from the frundsberg. Also were to put the balkenkreuz, like the panthers on the front of the hull? On the turret? In the middle of the hull? One on the rear? Decisions, decions...
>>5897321
A water decal is one thing
A dry transfer is another thing
A sticker is a sticker
They achieve the "same" but the method and materials are different so why argue?
Anyway what you ask for is rather rare, extremely rare depending where you ask as the alternative is custom decals to print at home with special paper that makes it a bit useless. I'm not surprised if what you ask for is expensive (what the fuck did you expect asking for a custom transfer sheet?) or hard to find.
On a related note, there's an old man in my city that worked with dry transfers, you said the font, size and text and he made it with some commercial (although rather rare to find) official font sheets or made them. He made sometimes basic graphics and stuff like that. We ordered some to use in prototypes and models of products, it wasn't really expensive but a pita to work with those when you can make stickers at home easily (or water decals if you prefer them). What I meant with this is that maybe looking around some design or engineering companies you can find some supplier or artisan to make them if you really need custom dry transfers, as I'm not sure on the Internet you can find, if you do and order report back as it's interesting

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>>5897823
Learn to paint.

>>5897826
Nah, I'm good :^)

>>5897823
Letraset is the company that made the font sheets, now I remember it. Those should be easy to find I think online but I dont think they will be useful to you I guess

Whats a decent 1/35 Howitzer?

>>5897884
What's a decent 1/35 tank?

Broad questions get broad answers.

>>5897886
thanks bro
Also broad answers are fine and both are adequate questions you dingus.

>>5897893
Trying to distract from your shitty painting skills brah?

>>5897884
Bronco 1/35 25 pdr mk II/I

>>5897897
I'll have you know I sadly am not that legend and instead came from the gunpla thread because I wanted a Howitzer to use as a backpack canon.

>>5897904
That explains everything.

>>5897925
It really does, I'll fully admit I'm cancer.

>>5897823
Don't worry guy, anything can look bad if it's zoomed in and taken out of context. Especially when it's not even received its base colour coat.

>>5898191
A shitty primer coat will affect all subsequent layers.

>>5898203
I know.

Let's see the finished product and then decide whether a slightly pooled primer coat will have an effect or not.

>>5898209
You can already tell by the pebbly finish amd orange peel on the tools.

>>5897215
The airbrush came in the kit with the Sparmax Arism that I got (it's a Sparmax SP-35) and reading on it now it's actually suited to make up so I fucked up there.

The closest thing to my house is an Iwata Revolution HP-CR .5mm (which has a nozzle), everything else is a few days to a week postage at least. Apparently this is a very good airbrush so should I just dish out for this even though it's got the nozzle?

>>5898509
>Iwata Revolution HP-CR .5mm

That's only going to be any use if you're just spraying large areas. If you want to do pre/post shading, fading, mottling etc. you're going to struggle.

I'd go for Badger (if you're in the US) or Harder and Steenbeck is you're ROW as both use a floating type nozzle that's pretty much idiot proof.

I don't know that much about Badger but I can recommend the H&S Evolution. Either the Silverline or the CR+. The Silverline has a paint control system (ie a needle limiter) whereas the CR+ is fully chromed (rather than nickel) and comes with PTFE seals and a crown-cap but lacks the paint control system.

The Silverline is still solvent safe though as I think the front body (internally) is chromed but you'll probably need to replace the seals once a year or so if you're a heavy user of solvent based paints.

>>5897884
Revell Panzerhaubitze 2000

>>5898730
>The Silverline is still solvent safe though as I think the front body (internally) is chromed but you'll probably need to replace the seals once a year or so if you're a heavy user of solvent based paints.

Scratch that. I'm retarded. Just checked the site and all Evolution models have PTFE seals. So they /should/ last for ages. Though from memory replacements aren't that expansive (unlike Iwata where one measly rubber o-ring might set you back a tenner).

>>5898730
Personally I don't really like to preshade, and if I do any post shading I do it with pastels. Not to mention I could fix the airbrush I currently have and use it sparingly for pre/post shading if I want to give shading a go.

So the Iwata I guess is fine then?

>>5898791
It's not going to give you the flexibility to spray freehand camo, but if you really can't wait to get your airbrushing dick wet, then go ahead

>>5898219
Where is orange peel on the tools? Also do you know what really is orange peel?
I only see a slight texture in the shovel but I guess it's from the pigments

>>5898904
You can't even see the obvious >>5897826

>>5898972
That's a wheel, not a tool. Also it doesn't even look half done

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Just to trigger "what is cast texture" anon aka "pebbly finish kun" I will not even prime the wheels and paint on top as it is. For those wondering why they looked like that I airbrushed then with what I had left in the cup while painting the hull so I didn't have to trow away the paint or primer
>wouldn't that look like shit?
Saving anything like this shouldn't be even a problem to a good modeler, blaming your technique for poor execution is for scrubs.
Btw pebbly kun, I enjoy the bantering as it livens up the thread but can you post your work? Your best or what you consider worthy of posting, I'm quite curious about it now. If you are really good (I'm not a pro nor consider myself one of the best here) instead of shitposting you could share techniques and stuff

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>>5898977
>>5899227
And the final result, it needs a last layer but it's pretty much it
They weren't even "started", and what I said that we're finished were the tools

>>5899233
>shitty primer coat shows through paint

>>5899240
>it needs a last layer

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>>5899240
>>5899248
>I can't read
Anyway, I scraped a bit so you can see (and with luck understand finally) what is a cast texture. Even with the half assed primer "coating" it looks like what's under it and how it should look. It was fun pebbly kun, but continuing this would get an never ending shitpost going nowhere, still waiting for your builds tho

>>5899248
I meant to reply to 589940 sry

>>5899227
Just fyi:

I am cast texture guy. I think your wheels look just fine. Thats someone else.

>>5899276
Sry, I though it was the same guy and that he thought that the paint or primer are the cause of the cast texture

Can the mods ban the troll and the idiot who keeps feeding the troll?

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Painting done

>>5899309
What is that?

>>5899312
a gundam

>>5900527
Thank you captain obvious. Might you clue us in on what website were communicating on?

>>5900534
Then what do you want to know?

>>5900534
Looks like an RX-78 because of the elbow circles, but I guess you haven't made enough Gunpla to know that.

>>5900551
Well, uh, because the Gunpla thread is elsewhere. You can't really expect Gunpla pros here, you knoe?

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Decals done. It's on top of the paint and fixed with micro sol, as the amig paints I used are satin themselves I wanted to try doing it without a layer of glossy varnish.
It doesn't give any problem and the micro sol makes them grip to the weird texture perfectly. The decals from amusing hobby look really thin but mine are a bit offset, I think that irl two color markings weren't perfect but also being Germans I'm not sure, I suppose I can pass it as a sloppy field application.
With tamiya xf range I wouldn't recommend to do this (I did it and with some micro sol and two layers of satin varnish on top it's doable and looks good) as they are matt as fuck and a lot of people seems to have troubles with silvering, but it seems that these paints allow to apply decals without further steps which is quite comfy

Can you use the hairspray technique with acrylic paints?

>>5900832
Of course.

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>>5900787
They look a bit like a sport car or a jet exhaust now, but after all this work I don't wanna bury it in rust. I'll make a little test in a spare plastic to see how to get the best compromise between rust and this

>>5901058
Well, it ain't like they come rusted through quite straight out of the factory gates.

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Paint fucking turned to dogshit in a day.
4th coat of paint needed, woot.

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>>5901129
Yeah, I'll ad some pigment later and leave it like that.
One of the tests came up quite interesting in pic related.
With some enamel brown (earth effects in my case) and rust pigment you can get different textures on a single application and then working with white spirits get it how you want. Kinda like making mud, but more subtle and thinner.
If I had more shades of rust this would give tetanus just by looking at it, but the base color should be light rust as it gets almost covered and would give more richness. It's a matter of trying I guess
>>5901162
If I were you I would sand it gently and start again. What happened? And what colors did you use?

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>>5901192
Can't really do it here in the uk, because I only have a brush, cutters and paints.
All of my modelling tools are back home.
I probably didn't stir the paint (tamiya xf-61) enough and painted the thing tank.

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Time to paint.

>>5901058
What paint did you use?

>>5901247
The color of the plastic looks like a very good OD base, almost as if you could leave it like that
>>5901381
All hand brushed except the blue:
Base with tamiya flat black
Drybrush with amig burnt iron
Tamiya sky blue drybrush
Tamiya gold filter
Black and naple yellow oil wash
Gun metal pigment rubbed
That's all the things I used, but the gold filter was too thin and I don't think it's even noticiable (thankfully) and the oil was very subtle too because I mainly used it to kill the blue hue I obtained that in military exhausts doesn't exist (in bikes and things like that it does) and to generally tone everything down. So I think with black and some kind of burnt iron/metal color and metallic pigment it would look the same. I still need to add a bit of rust, but I'll do it later when I work with the pigments in the hull

>>5902217
>>5902212
>>5902200
>>5902191
Bugger off reddit, the autistic among us have already left

>>5902258
What were those posts?

Could a coat of future theoretically be used as a primer?

>>5902567
Do you want to paint on top of a "varnish" layer?
You can and probably work out well, but I doubt it will have uniform grip for the paint and other qualities of primers so it might fuck it up

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Krylon fusion Paint/Primer, is it good for Resin Garage kits? (pic related)

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>>5902563
Wery difficult joke, lol

Okay , if everything so seriously . Conversion of the BTR- 80 in the ZS-88 (zvukoveshchatel’naya stantsiya) - PsyOps vehicle with loudspeaker set, the scale of 1/100 .

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And other small improvements - a cable , spare parts box , entrenching tools , rails , flaps on the battlements

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codename - Goebbels-Wagen

>>5902611
>Krylon
>Good

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APC will stand in the trenches

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adjacent to the trench shelter for the crew , which has bunks and a stove , to the guys feel at home, kek

>>5902623
>>5902624
>>5902629
>>5902632
>>5902637
>>5902640
I appreciate the effort you put in to this thread.

Thanks guy.
Looks good by the way.

>>5902656
>>5902640
samefag

>>5902637
Do they really dig trenches for APCs like that?

>>5902671
PsyOps

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>>5902657
No. I am not samefag. If you about the figure in the frame - do not pay attention. I was take a pari in the groupbuild on another forum (it is my mascot to not mistake whose model)
>>5902656
I do not quite understand what you mean - it is praise or sarcasm (I still do not understand English very well)

simulation fire in the furnace

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>>5902671
Of course. Armored personnel carriers, infantry fighting vehicles, tanks - all these vechicles must be covered if they are stay at the checkpoint. Otherwise, they can be easily destroyed by anti-tank weapons (rocket-propelled grenades, anti-tank guided missiles). According to the regulations the platoon positions dug at least 2 of the trench for one vechicle - the main and reserve. If you can translate - here's an article on how to do it.
http://voenservice.ru/okopyi-i-ukryitiya-dlya-btr-bmp-mt-lb-i-trebovaniya-k-ih-vozvedeniyu/

>>5902679
It's praise, don't worry

>>5902690

Makes sense.

Thanks for the explanation.

>>5902640
Really nice detail there. I like it even if i don't understand the choice of such a small scale.

>>5902704
I really enjoyed doing these toys here - in fact it is for miniatures games (actually miniature models of Zvezda for their wargame). I want to make a cross between a large-scale diorama and modular terrain. In previous threads, I showed the soldiers, and the process of working on the "gas vans",a house and something else. All this one.

>>5902730
I see.

How popular are these Zvezda wargames in russia?

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Making progress on the mk iv

So far it may be the easiest kit I've ever done

>>5902635
What am i supposed to do then, mix my own from scratch because this is a hobby for rich folks only?

>>5903782
Or just buy fucking model primer like a normal person

>>5903782
Use paint actually meant for models. If you can't even afford that, you're in the wrong fucking hobby.

>>5903782
>rich folks only?

Western Europe rich, or rural Afghanistan rich?

>>5904137
>>5903856
please, there is nothing wrong with car primer at all.

This reminds me back when the Gunpla threads were still new and people thought you could only use official Gundam Markers and Tamiya paints on them.

>>5904364
To be fair, the spray isn't as gentle as hobby spray paints. Krylon's is a little too forceful, which means it can end up being too thick if you're not careful.
You used to be able to fix that by buying or swapping spray nozzles, but it seems like Krylon switched to nozzles that are difficult to swap in the past 10 years.

>>5904434
it has an adjustable nozzle, I should be able to work with it.

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I've been working on a 1/24th scale Toyota Ae86, just painted the body today, got a lot of polishing to do to it.

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>>5904532
>AE86
>OF COURSE it's Initial D

>>5904540
of course.

>>5904364
There is. It's meant for metal and can be too hot for plastic. The pigments are much thicker than the ones in model paint and will obscure detail. It's like using sulfuric acid to clean your kitchen.

>>5904551
Krylon has been used by fans of warhammer and other minis for decades. It's still one of the most recommended brands for modeling.

>>5904604
>one of the most recommended brands for modeling
By who? Redneck Americans who buy everything from WalMart?

>>5904604
Krylon is overpriced. Rustoleum is cheaper.

>>5904614
Why the fuck would you pay the jews for a tiny jar of "model" paint when you can buy the exact same thing at Wal-Mart and get way more for way fucking less?

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>>5904614
>implying rednecks buy warhammer and other expensive gaming models
Ok, i guess there are some, but the vast majority are huge tech/math/engineering nerds with a lot of money to throw around to afford that shite.

Here's a great 10 minute long review for Krylon's Camouflage (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!!) for something I've read versions of in less than 2 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5Re9jTuWPk

>>5904625
>10 minute long review of spray paint
How much are you being paid by Krylon?
Literally all you need to do for a review is spray it and look at it when it's dry.

>>5904628
>Literally all you need to do for a review is spray it and look at it when it's dry.
I know, right?
But reviews that explain everything, like techniques, the hows, whys, etc, are still needed and are always really helpful. Unfortunately, video reviews have become so popular that even people who did written reviews have switched to videos because people are more illiterate than ever.

And i wish Krylon paid me. I'd fucking take their product as payment. You can't even find their shit in WalMart anymore, so i have to go out of my fucking normal driving areas to buy their stuff. It's worse than actually driving to a gaming shop and those are put near the fucking air force bases in the boonies, because all the nerds live over closer to work.

>>5904625
>being this old
>posting on 4chan
didn't know this was a cringe thread

>>5896749
If you want to go cheap, Zvezda has some 1/100 scale stuff and that scale is forgiving.

>>5904625
You fucking Jew. You made it 10 minutes long so you could get that Jewtube ad revenue.

>>5904604
Basically this.

But its ok. Some people just want to spend more money for special products.

>>5904661
I laugh at all the idiots who buy special model products, especially weathering products, when you can make your own cheap as hell

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>>5904665

>>5904551
oh, and i want to correct something.
the "pigment" isn't thicker. It's the emulsion that's suspending the pigment that would be thicker, which isn't true about Krylon anyway.

Cheapo paints use thicker binders and use less pigment, because the emulsion itself is cheap and pigment is expensive.

However, for metallic paints, since they can use actual metal, the metal pieces can be thicker, but that really doesn't affect the thickness of the paint itself.

>>5904688
Can you take your mouth off Krylon's dick for one second?

>>5904690
And just to add another thing, you do want thicker pigments, at least, in terms of density. More pigment is usually better.

Also, did you know you can use a clear matte coat as a primer? Yep, but even using too thick of a coat of that can obscure detail

>>5904625
>ten minute review
>holds up paint cans

No actual examples of what you're talking about? No shots of the models after you've painted?

Shame.

>>5904722
I skipped through the vid and at the end he sprays some minis

But you are right, and while i think these cans are not bad at all, the video reeks alot like a bought review.

>>5904722
it's just an ad Krylon paid him to do.

>>5904722
>>5904724
>>5904726
Samefag

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>>5904732
right

>>5904625
>>5904688
>>5904732
Samefag

>Gundam modelers are this retarded
>>5904739

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>>5904722
Just google.
There are tons of models for you to look at, most of them from step by step guides or doing comparisons.

It's extremely common and found everywhere with gaming minis, but i guess you just want to cry shilling just because it's new to you.

>>5904622
>>>/pol/

Several reasons. Firstly, there is more than enough paint in a 23mL jar of Tamiya to last a very long time, models are small and don't require that much paint if you do it correctly, light coats, fast passes.

Secondly, not everyone wants to fucking decant spray paint. It's messy, time consuming, etc.

Thirdly, Tamiya paints and other brands are actually formulated to be accurate colors for military modelling, for example I'm not going to try to mix by decanting a shade of IJN Kure Gray from fucking Krylon when I can simply buy a jar of Tamiya XF-75 and have an accurate color that I only need to thin and then airbrush.
Krylon doesn't manufacter a panzer dunkelgelb color, or any RLM colors, so everything you say is a moot point.

Finally, Krlyon are lacquer paints, which means that they require a respirator to paint with, and even if you decant them you're still going to have to thin them somewhat for airbrushing. Acrylics are 100x easier to airbrush with and clean up after compared to a fast-drying lacquer like Krylon.

If you are seriously such a cheap shit that you want to waste time decanting inaccurate Krylon colors for your models instead of just using modelling paints like Tamiya, vallejo, etc. then you should probably find another hobby because irregardless plastic modelling is an expensive hobby. The kits are expensive, the tools are expensive, and so are the paints, but it's worth it.

>>5904778
Shill more, kike

>>5904763
>completely missing the point of a review

>>5904763
>>5904625
Samefag

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>people posting as if they were masters of the craft and universe for not using hobby related products
>people arguing about some brand of generic primer
>people whinnying over a hobby being expensive
Use whatever you want if you are happy with the results as always, but I checked Amazon.com, as this krylon thing seems something American, and I found that they sell it for 6$ the lowest price for white primer. On Amazon too you can buy tamiya primer cans for 8$ which are known as one of the best for being able to be sanded, perfect grip, deposition, etc. There's also citadel chaos black but it's really expensive at 18$ the big can on amazon, which I have used and it's pretty good but not worth that price.
I assume you don't have an airbrush so Vallejo, mr surfacer, etc are out of the question I guess despite being the best solution economically and more importantly in control of application.
So why would you choose krylon over tamiya for example? It's not a huge difference in price. Or if you are talking about colors, I didn't see anything in krylons range that could be considered an accurate color, and "small" hobby paint jars are quite cheap and last a long time. If you need to spray, tamiya (for example) colors are almost all available in spray cans for 10$ in amazon, which gives you enough for two/three 1:35 afvs.
Anyway back on scale models.
Two filters on the hull and turret and washes on the wheels. Tomorrow I guess I'll do either oils or wash on the hull. Still haven't decided if doing it deployed in summer or autumn, but probably in autumn so I can do some mud and wet effects so I do something different from the last build

Alclad is the best primer

>>5904825
10/10

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>>5904821
>tamiya (for example) colors are almost all available in spray cans for 10$ in amazon, which gives you enough for two/three 1:35 afvs.


I don't like Tamiya sprays because they only come in small cans. (100ml for paint or 180ml for primer). Yet they cost just as much (Around 10€ for me on Amazon) as primers of other brands (for example Army Painter for 9,84 or Vallejo for 12,50). The difference being: AP and Vallejo cans (and Citadel/GW too btw) hold 400ml.

So do Krylon cans but i found them to be to expensive due to shipping.

The Tamiya stuff isn't bad at all, its just 4 times as expensive. If you live at a place where you can buy 400ml of Tamiya spray for 10 bucks, great. But i sadly dont.

Pic related.

>>5904821
>So why would you choose krylon over tamiya for example?

To be the really smart guy who has figured out the system and gets this great deal instead of buying the overpriced modelling brand stuff.

>>5904791
Can these edgelord /pol/ faggots please fuck off out of this thread already? Get back to your containment board.

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>>5905038

>>5904933
>Krylon
>Great deal
AHAHAHA

Staying in NYC for the next four days. Anyone got recommendations for good hobby shops?

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Ive had more fun painting these little guys than I have for a long time

>>5904821
Krylon spray cans are less than $5 in the US.
Tamiya spray cans are about or less than $8.

Krylon cans contain 11oz of paint in them.
Tamiya's have 3.5oz.

So you'll have to spend over $20 more for Tamiya cans to equal what you spend $5 for a Krylon can.

so krylon's the most economical. It's a good brand. compatible with almost all plastic types, even ones that reject paints. They have many of the same features Tamiya does. It's cheap and is relatively easy to find in many close by physical stores.
Negatives are that there is a limit on their colors, but most people only use it as primer anyway. The pressure from the nozzle isn't as soft as that found in Tamiya, but it's easy to compensate for.

It's why it's so common and recommended by so many modelers.

>>5905748
Thank you, i was hoping someone useful would regard it as prumer, not a full paintjob

>>5905534
Looks great anon. Looks way better than the first mini you posted.

>>5905850
He >>5905748 talked about the paint, as in comparing it to tamiya color cans, but whatever

>>5906190
Thanks m8. Its amazing what a little practice can do

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>>5894621
Who /shermanholic/ here? Currently in the process of repainting all of my US vehicles, my 1/16th 105mm sherman I'm considering doing a winter camouflage seen in battle of the bulge. I also used some Mr. Surfacer to make a cast texture on the turret and lower hull, as the factory vehicle didn't come out very detailed.

>>5907750
Is that 1/16 Sherman RC?

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>>5907754
Yup, one of those cheap heng long tanks, this one has sound and metal suspension. I like it well enough, although I would advise if you buy one get a cheap soldering pen. I'm not very tech savy but the bits of soder that connect everything are pretty brittle and with the cheap price comes cheap manufacturing, so odds are you'll end up having to do your own repairs. Turret elevation went out once, and in another tank the power supply connection also broke.
Right now I am kind of looking for a T-23 turret kit for it, or maybe just some better detail parts. The caliber .50 on this looks like absolute garbage, also the hatch handles are too thick. Getting a new cupola with transparent vision ports would be cool too.

>>5907750
>eva

My man

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Did someone say Sherman?

Remember my olive oil soaked failure? ;_;

I think i can save it to a degree so it won't look like garbage at least. I applied some wash earlier and hopefully i find the time to do some cleaning and then add streaking grime later today.

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Seems the M4 is somewhat in fashion at the moment. Is today the anniversary of Uncle Billy burning down some place that particularly needed it or something like that?

>>5907964
Looks good except the decals

>>5907972
Is that spray booth worth it?

>>5907885
I was watching EVA 3.33, don't really understand what was going on desu and was kind of uninterested so I went to bed early. Loved the hell out of the first 25 episodes , and the two following movies.

>>5907972
Can you tell me what kit is that? Early Shermans with the M34 mantlet and M3 suspension is pretty much my fettuccine.

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>>5908877
Tasca/Asuka M4 Sherman Direct vision type

I have their Sherman Firefly sitting in the backlog for a few months. Beautiful kits with a suspension gimmick and nice options. Only problem is the one piece tracks which I dont exactly prefer

Has anyone done business with a guy named Nick Aguilar? I'm looking for a 1/16th scale T-23 Sherman turret.

So, I need help painting figures.
I have quite an arsenal of oil paints as I heard they work well for small scale faces of all kinds.
My main problem is applying a base coat over white primer- it just doesn't seem even to me.
Do I thin the paints, do I apply and blend them, how do I get even coverage?

>>5908993
Can't you get a set of different tracks from elsewhere?

>>5909306
I had the same issue. I just skipped priming and thoroughly washed the parts.

If you have an airbrush throw down a base coat with the and then do any detailing/washes by hand

>>5909306
For acrylics you'd keep the paints thin and then apply multiple coats (if necessary) until until the base coat has a good and even coverage. I'd imagine it'd be much the same with oils.

Hey guys,
I'm WW2 enthusiast and I've decided I would like to start modeling. The question is... how do I do that? What kind of stuff do I need? What types of models I start with? Is there some kind of difficulty scale?
I'm really scared of painting........

>>5909497
oh, nevermind, Im an idiot. there is a pdf link in the beggining... my bad

>>5909308
I was talking about the kit, not looking for a solution.

>>5909504
>>5909497
If you have any questions left after reading the stuff in the OP, just ask.

>>5909306
I tried that, didn't really work for me either.
if its too thick you just get brush strokes in it, if its too thin it doesn't cover and would need a dozen coats which kind of defeats the point because you need accuracy for painting.

the people here who use oils just use them for small subtle differences on already painted surfaces.

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>buy $80 model
>missing a sprue
>retailer says take it up with manufacturer
>manufacturer doesn't offer replacement parts

>>5910175
What a shitty retailer.
He won't even let you return it so you can have your money back?

He should offer a new one just out of goodwill.

>>5910175
Wut kit?

>>5910175
The authorities in quite a few places in the world do frown upon that kind of practice. Of course, how much of a hazzle it'd be to draw their attention to it in the proper way...

Which retailer?

AFV Club kit from Jue Bros

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How does my Sherman look? It's basic pretty much out the box. I went ahead and repainted it. I ordered a T-23 turret kit with 76mm gun. (This is all 1/16th scale). Should I install a barrel recoil unit? The new barrel will be too small to fit the airsoft gun so there will be a lot of turret space left. Definitely want to get a metal/photo etch M2 as well as a new hull mg.

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>>5912438
The T-23 kit I ordered, anyone have experience with resin?

>>5912502
somewhat.. i try to avoid using it.

If you have to sand/file some parts, make sure you don't inhale the dust. It causes cancer.
Do it under running water if you have no mask.

>>5912784
>>5912502

Oh, i forgot:

If some parts appear to be bent or simply do not fit, hold them under hot water for a while and you can fix them. Then use cold water to get them hard again.

>>5912502
Be careful with smaller pieces, resin snaps very easily. Other than that, use CA glue to piece things together. Be careful removing pieces from the blocks too though, if you have a razor saw that would probably work best, if not a hobby knife. Using nippers in my experience can also lead to parts getting snapped easily.

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>finally a review for that kit!
>in-box review

>>5913175
In-box reviews are merely ads

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so what the fuck changed in the manufacturing process of spray cans? I shake them "well" and all they do is sputter and leave bubbles all over my models finish

>>5913607
Get an airbrush

>>5913626
too much money for me unfortunately, Trust me, I would have a long time ago

>>5913607
do you stand them in hot water for a while before using? you should do that.

>>5913672
I haven't done that before and they've worked, but i'll give that a shot. How long would you say? 10-20 minutes?

>>5913607
Might have a defective nozzle. Does happen occasionally.

Try inverting it and spraying for 3 seconds to clear the nozzle.

Also, when you stand cans in water, only raise the temperature to about 40 degrees C. Any higher is risky and potentially dangerous.

>>5913607
If there are bubbles, you are spraying way too thick.

>>5913655
too bad

>>5913715
If I barely depress the nozzle then its strictly bubbles, but if I use it like i've always been, which in the 20 or so models i've made, this has never happened, then it should spray an even coat, but it's a mix of normal performance and bubbles

>>5913718
fuck off

>>5913723
No

>>5913722
what about distance you're holding

>>5913723
kike

>>5913607
learn 2 paint

>>5913756
about 9 inches-a foot away

>>5913824
>inches

hi
if i want to paint north american p51d, which colour of metalizer should i use? silver, aluminium, duralumium, polished aluminium or maybe another?

>>5913854
lol u tk him 2da bar|?

>>5913854
Shitposting aside, to paint a metallic body wwii plane you will need either aluminum or steel or maybe chrome if you like them extra shinny. In general, metallic paints when painted look "polished". I don't think anyone sells a metallic paint that doesn't look "perfect".
What infrastructure you do you have to paint?

>>5913889
>metallic body wwii plane
>aluminum or steel or maybe chrome
You have no idea about the finish of bmf planes, do you?

>>5913889
I always use alclad ii : http://alclad2.com/
shits good as fuck

>>5913890
I'm not an airplane guy, but afaik the wings where painted with some aluminum paint. This link talks about it but I might be wrong.
http://forum.keypublishing.com/showthread.php?138466-P51-Mustang-wings-painted-or-not
Anyway he's talking about painting a scale model so the name of the """metal""" in the paint is more a matter of what hue you like the most or what metal you want to reproduce.
But feel free to keep talking without knowing shit and making quality posts :^)
>>5913898
Those lacquer are extremely good, but need a shinny black primer (second primer really) to get the bests results and an airbrush. Never seen them brushed so I can't say with that method, I use their cooper airbrushed and it's perfect. Until he says what he has maybe ak metallic wax or humbrol enamels are easier for him to use

>>5913907
>I'm not an airplane guy
>But feel free to keep talking without knowing shit
:^)

>>5913907
>I'm not an airplane guy
>But feel free to keep talking without knowing shit
Who's the one talking without knowing shit here?
>metallic body wwii plane
>aluminum or steel or maybe chrome
Also, your link is one of the first results for P-51 finish.

>>5913854
I recommend the true metal line by ak interactive. Aluminum color to be specific

>>5913824
maybe youre creating the bubbles by over shaking the paint.

I would like to own a model of the tank from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. I know that the tank was made just for the movie but I wondered which tanks are similar to it or if there is an easy way to build one out of multiple kits.

>>5915556
No.

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>>5915556
Is the one in pic related?
The base tank is a mark IV male, takom and tamiya have kits so the base (and I would say 80% of the build) is already done. The turret looks like one from an early churchill tank or something like that. Overall doesn't seem a really difficult job if you have medium level modeling knowledge as most of the things are flat and can be done with plasticard.
This dude scratch builded one in 1:18
http://www.nicksmodeltanks.com/wwi.htm

>>5915563
Thanks, this will help.

>>5915556
I'm right there with you. It was an altered MK 7, I believe. Not kit exists but it would probably be not too complicated to scratchbuild or 3d print

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finally looking like a tank

>>5915556
Holy shit 1/35 indiana jones dioramas would be incredible

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>>5917011
Well, I've just discovered that none of the hobby stores in town carries anything suitable for tow cables (Asuka didn't see fit to include mroe than the end connectors with my kit). Which is understandable, because it isn't like those things are there on basically every tank ever.

Oh...

Luckily google managed to (eventually) cough up a gem&rock store that appears to have something suitable handy.

>>5917071
Use picture hanging wire or buy tow cables from Eureka

>>5917071
guitar strings maybe?

>>5917074
Checked the nearby stores, no suitable stuff to be found.

>>5917075
And likewise, no music store around the corner (nor any sport fishing one), so I may as well go for that gem&rock store next time I go downtown.

>>5917071
You can peel off a cable and use the already braided copper

>>5917098
>what is internet shopping?

>>5917099
Only thing I could pick up nearby was either single strand or much too thick.

>>5917101
If I have to wait for delivery I can just go pick it up in person downtown.

It isn't that I can't find the stuff, a trip to a sport fishing store with a vernier would sort it too. I'm mostly surprised by the fact that none of the six hobby stores I checked with had it.

>>5917104
>hobby stores
>good

There's a reason most peopple buy everything online.

>>5917118
I Agree.
Where do you buy off of?

>>5917544
The internet

>>5917858
Not the guy, but what websites exactly do you guys use?

>>5917976
Spruebrothers.com
Squadron.com
www.luckymodel.com
and I always look in the "Buy/Sell" forums on starshipmodeler.net, aircraftresourcecenter.com, and armorama.com

>>5918017
Fuck the first 2.
LuckyModel is good.

>>5918017
>>5918022
I've probably had over 40+ orders with Spruebrothers, what's your issue with them? I've never had a single problem and they always ship much faster than other stores in my experience.

I also use Scalehobbyist, they have a pretty good selection almost equivalent to spruebrothers.

Otherwise if I want something Chinese / Japanese I use ebay because it's much easier to import kits from there than to pay more through a US distributor.

>>5917976
Sockelshop.de
rc-toy.de (despite the name, that store has tons of regular kits too, mostly hidden on the website, but awesome prices)

Besides these two, i mostly buy from ebay.

Occasionally i order from hlj or 1999 in japan too.

>>5917976
I really like ModelHobbiesUK
I've Made several orders there and I found them to be the cheapest regarding base price of kits and products as well as offering a pretty reasonable international shipping prices.

Luckymodel is also great, but sometimes inter' shipping prices can cost more the the order itself...

Besides these, Ebay is always a great option as well.

>>5918237
>>5910175

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It's my first time posting in /toy/ so I hope this is the right thread

I've got my eye on this little number, it's the Moebius Battlestar Pegasus model kit:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moebius-1-4105-Battlestar-Pegasus-from-Battlestar-Galactica-931-/322233317519?hash=item4b069a388f:g:75MAAOSwawpXtsZk

I've also got my eye on the additional Paragrafix and Lighting parts:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paragrafix-1-4105-Battlestar-Galactica-Pegasus-Exterior-PE-Set-170-for-Moebius-/191888704453?hash=item2cad7543c5:g:YLUAAOSwLnBXUumS
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paragrafix-1-4105-Battlestar-Galactica-Pegasus-Landing-Bay-PE-168-for-Moebius-/111990215555?hash=item1a13231383:g:MGMAAOSwiYFXLm-E
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battlestar-Pegasus-Lighting-Kit-/142104337806?hash=item2116141d8e:g:BvAAAOSwT6pVoZGa

Now, the only issue is that I have no experience whatsoever in model assembly/construction and judging from the videos I've seen on youtube, this doesn't appear to be something for amateurs
It also doesn't help that I have all the artistic talent of a left-handed autistic child

So, it's looking like I'll need to commission its construction.

Can anybody recommend somebody based in the UK who might be able to do that? Or a website where I could find somebody? Or maybe even somebody here?

>>5918703
Britmodeller

>>5918703
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/kit_build.cfm looks like it might be what you're after.

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never used an enamel wash. How does it compare to oil?

Pic unrelated

>>5919077
Enamels are oil-based paint. Not much of a difference between them honestly. Oils have a longer dry time I guess, enamels do cure somewhat faster.

Family sent me a T-90 kit from Zvezda for my birthday
What kind of paint scheme should I give it once build?

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Thought I'd ask here as its something I've been curious about... how much does it cost to license a car/vehicle make in order to sell a model of it.

Like, say I wanted to create a scale diecast model of the Mad Max car to sell in stores. Or I want to put a Lamborgini in a video game. How much does it cost to be able to do that?

>>5919134
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZXnAMLGkIc

>>5919122
Whatever comes with the kit should be enough. I guess the usual green/sand/black disruptive pattern would be used in a deployment. Or do something you feel like doing but nobody can say the "what" in that case

>>5919122
All Russian armored vehicles are painted green per the new standard

>>5919117
Will they blend like oils?

>>5919134
Do a garage kit and dont pay lisenscing

>>5919134
A fuck ton.

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Bump you fucks

This guy is doing a Falcon from scratch and the AMT kit: https://www.flickr.com/photos/haystackhair

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Testing methods of painting wood grain. These were done on white plasticard.

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>>5922712
Nice.

Here is the woodgrain I did on my 1:32 Albatross.

>>5922764
Damn that looks good

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>building a plane
>filling seam lines
>sanding
>rescribing
>rince and repeat

Is building cars as tedious?

>>5923222
Cars is more about how you don't fuck up the paint job

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>>5923222
>building tanks and afv's
>no big seam lines to fill
>little to none rescribing
>even if you fuck up you can hide it under weathering

>>5923404
That's why I switched over o building armor. i started by building 1/72 aircraft. Still have some in my stash and a bunch started. I'm growing more fond of bigger models. 1/35 armor and 1/48 aircraft.

>>5923404
Wheels wheels wheels wheels and then the bloody tracks.

Yeah, you get to hide a lot under the weathering, but even getting that far...

I wonder what the misery with boats is. Apart form the rigging. Making umpteen of the same AA gun?

>>5923469
not losing small pieces

like Indianapolis guy and his bofors

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i hate that the best model products are so difficult to find in the states. Tamiya weathering kits, humbrol, even mig is hard to get ahold of.

Everything can be bought online but shipping costs/wait time is ridiculous

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>>5923808
>best modelling products
>tamiya weathering kits
>humbrol

>>5923808
At least you're not in Canada

>>5923808
>shipping costs

Its not really that much better in Europe..

I can order within Germany for 7€, but most online retailers don't have MIG/AK stuff. The few that do stock these things usually have only the basic stuff and/or the things i want are sold out.
Ordering from 2 or even 3 shops is silly since i have to pay shipping 3x instead of getting free shipping if i were to order it from only one.

Now you might think.. why not order directly in spain from Mig himself, its EU and not that far... yeah fuck the EU, 29€ shipping.. its cheaper if i order from fucking Hongkong.

>>5923817
[muffled australian scream in the distance]

>>5923808
Dont forget Mr. Surfacer

>>5923808
>>5923817
>>5923850
>>5923852
>Being from Spain
>Being able to buy from amig and the jews from ak with free or low shipping and cool promotions
>All those good hobby shops both online and physical
>everything else from euro eshops or ebay with reasonable shipping prices/wait
>watch all the whining and misery in other countries
ahahHAHAHAHAHA
I knew there should be something good in being Spanish, shame is only related to scale models and normie things

Just got one of those shitty "4D models" A have Jagdtiger and a Bergpanzer in 1/72 for 3 dollars each, anyone have experience in those?

>>5924024
>being from Spain
I'm so sorry

>>5898730
Well I held off buying anything because I've been pretty busy. I'm about to go and grab the Evolution, just wondering where I can check if it will fit my hose? I have the hose that came with the compressor (Sparmax ARISM) and have no clue on where to look.

Any major difference between the Evolution and the Evolution Silverline? It's only 5 bucks between them.

>>5925033
Silverline doesn't have rubber components, only teflon seals, so it can be used for solvent-based paints.
(More so than the regular Evolution anyway)

>>5924975
Taiwanese?

>>5925165
Cool, well I'll just go for that then. Cheers. Have two kits that have been on standstill for a while that I'll finally be able to finish.

Put together a gundam or two during HS (yee-haw), and some 40k/hordes here and there since then. No real serious modeling before. Always fondly remembered the time assembling shit though.

Got into World of Warships recently, and today decided to wander over to the local hobbyshop and try out a kit- see if it's something I want to do more of. Picked up a Hasegawa 1/700 South Dakota. Never was big on painting anything but we'll see after I finish putting the thing together.

I don't really have a point or question, unless you have advice/suggestions in particular. Just felt like sharing.

Decided to take my RC KV-2 and make it a captured KV-2.

I have bought some Panzer grey to spray it with, but since it already is coated in green paint, should I remove all the green paint and re-primer it? or just paint over the green paint that's already on it?

Painting it straight on would be easier, but if it has any small scratches later on I don't really want green to show under the grey

All primed up. Debating on preshading.

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>>5926639
Oops

>>5926325
>Hasegawa 1/700 South Dakota

Man, that's a real oldie you picked up. Hope you didn't overpay, the detailing is way oversimplified on that one.

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Hey folks, just to let you know there's a model/hobby exhibition happening in Japan right now and I thought I'll share.

Platz:
http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264690/

HobbyBoss:
http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264655/
The new 1:350 ship seems to be the French battleship Dunkerque

Aoshima:
http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264023/

Wave:
http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264545/

Some Ma.K. stuff:
http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264504/

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Something seems a bit off with this one.

>>5926990
Neat.

>>5926997
It's Vallejo

>>5926633
>I don't want green to show under the grey
That's, if anything, more realistic for a captured and re-painted vehicle.

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>>5927010
On top of that.

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>kept you waiting, huh
>>5926633
Personally, I would try to reproduce one from reference as it looks that there are a lot of pics of captured kv2s. Either way sanding all the paint is a rather tedious work that you need to do right or don't do it at all you know. So probably airbrushing carefully on top is the way to go. This depends on how much time you want to dedicate to this step and your skill so maybe try painting on some small area and see
>>5926651
I always preshade but I can't say that makes any noticiable difference, unless you want to do a black and white technique paintjob. In my Löwe I can't see any difference and only has the paint and filters done. I suppose if you paint really thin and translucent it really matters

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>>5927027
This box is huge, if it was a bit longer it would be like one of those trumpeter 1:16 tanks. Shame I can't even start to work on it and the Löwe it's still like I left it weeks ago, but looks so fucking good. If anyone want to see something about the kit or paint just ask as always.

>>5927027
did you get the russian green set?

i NEED that info pamphlet they include with it

>>5927055
nope, but I think its this pdf
http://www.migjimenez.com/img/cms/PDF/russian-greens-leaflet.pdf

>>5927064
thats actually the old one, they updated it this year but its not online yet

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>>5927031
Funny thing about the kit is that with the instructions comes the schemes for the non 505 abt edition, no decals tho (and wouldn't make sense to try to do those). Also there are listed the other two schemes for the porsche turret version (only the decals: "anneliese" 324 or 314, not sure which one in the named one but by elimination the other is the remaining option).
So there are two schemes per kit in the zimmerit version, which seems a rather short selection but I guess its normal as zimmerit coating was phased out in 44 and only the ones that had already applied left it there
>>5927073
I didn't know that, but I suppose that wouldn't have a lot of new things. I mean, there are new greens or they expanded the brochure?

>>5926997
it will turn clear once dry.

>>5927209
The amber tone remains. I've tested it. Seems vallejo's clear varnish just goes funny in the bottle sometimes, look at the comparison with a new bottle in >>5927024

But hey, whenever I want to add a gloss coat and an amber filter...

>>5927024
>>5926997
Why not just use future?

>>5927320
I personally cant actually find future.

gotta stick with humbrol for now

>>5926917
$20.

>>5926990
>http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264023/
>Those ruined anime warship kits from Aoshima

What the fuck are these abominations?

Thanks for the links though, wish they were showing off some of the new Flyhawk 1/700 kits.

>>5927589
>What the fuck are these abominations?

A good way to wring some extra otaku-bucks out of the tooling for the regular venison I suspect.

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>>5927242
>But hey, whenever I want to add a gloss coat and an amber filter...
ahahahahaha....

>>5918703
I've built this kit. Hollowing out the flight pods to use the Paragrafix PE set is a bitch. Use a Dremel. Totally worth it through. They look like ass straight from the box.

>>5919077
Enamel washes can be a bitch to get off if you don't do it right away.

>>5926990
>http://hobby.dengeki.com/event/264655/
That SU-34 is giving me a hardon.