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Scale Model General

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Scale Model General
This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin) models kits.
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/

Previous Thread >>5851600
>>
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Check out my 1/100 tonks. They are from zvezda and they are a lot of fun, feels good when you finish a whole model in just 3 days
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And another one
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>>5870141
pretty
>>5870144
not so pretty
>>
>>5870141
These are like 3€/piece right? They look really nice actually, considering scale and price.
>>
>>5870157
I bought them here in Russia, so i don't have any idea about the price, but if they are only 3 euros in your location than it's a fucking bargain. You should check them out (especially newer ones, like su-100 or tiger)
>>
>>5870141
Man that looks great. Especially at that crazy tiny scale
>>
>>5868293
What's the Mig grey lacquer primer color? I'm thinking about getting it too.
Also, can't you dry fit the tracks and check if the mudguards really touch? Maybe it's just like that and actually intended...
>>
looking to get into ships, decently cheap beginners kit? I don't mind if it's small as long as it's longer than 7 - 10 CM
>>
>>5870306
I believe tamiya makes a good line of 1/700 ships. I think they run like 20 bucks and are maybe 6 inches long?
>>
>>5870335
Thanks!
I have a good local hobby shop that has them at great prices so i'm getting a
SCHARNHORST for 25$ and KING GEORGE for 27$ which is great for Canada
>>
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>>5870134
The Falcon was such a damn fun kit for me. It was quite a task for my first kit where I assembled and painted everything but I learned alot from it. Probably gonna start buying other Bandai Star Wars kits as well
>>
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Somewhat scale related, not building related.

Was finally able to get my 1/16 Heng Long KV1S. Have a Torro KV2 turret to hopefully put on it.
>>
>>5870832

Uploaded the wrong image, forgive the giant size. I made a resized one but mixed them up.
>>
>>5870134
What's a decent compressor/air brush for a beginner to get?
>>
>>5870157
Oh crap! They're 6.50CDN here! Time to stock up before Trudeau digs our dollar into an even deeper shithole!
>>
>>5870840
Iwata Eclipse, Badger Patriot, Harder and Steenbeck Ultra are all good choices for a mid-high range airbrush. Just make sure you get something that is gravity fed, not siphon fed honestly, there are many choices you should do your own research before buying one and weigh your options.

Compressor doesn't really matter, just get one with a tank and a moisture filter, and if you live in a humid environment remember to drain your tank regularly to prevent corrosion from building up. Also make sure your hose / airbrush / compressor are compatible, meaning they have the same size attachments and whatnot.
>>
>>5870171
I would have imagined that they are even cheaper in Russia since Zvezda is from there.

>>5870927
I doubt the shipping costs will be reasonable, but this store here has between 2,55€ up to around 6. (i think these are the newer ones)

http://rc-toy.de/cosmoshop/cgi-bin/lshop.cgi#q%3Dzvezda%25201%2F100%26t%3Dno
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continued working on my M4. It starts to look like a soviet tank. Still need to paint the rubber on the roadwheels and touch up the tools a little bit.
>>
>>5870832
1/16? Damn son
>>
>>5870291
Its marked as A.MIG-908 GREY BASE which is a part of the German grey modulation kit (you can buy the colors separately of course) but in the end is a kind of German grey so with the tamiya one or whatever you use normally you could get away with it, making it a bit darker perhaps. Anyway I ordered the takom KT from mig store with the interior color combo (honestly to try new colors as they are cheaper than tamiya but brushed not all give acceptable results which is weird and would like to know what alternatives I have) which includes
AMIG-218 RLM 66 SCHWARTZGRAU that is not really related to the dunkelgrau but neither they say it should be used in the cannon. Until I get it I can't really say.
As for the mudguards they touch with the tracks a bit, don't think they should touch. It bothers me but I think I can fix it without major reconstruction works
>>5870832
Didn't you post about waiting for it a month ago? Are you going to repaint it and weathering or just transfer the turret?
>>5871203
Just the decals make most of the work so you shouldn't worry about being it Russian enough. Did you glue the tracks? Doesn't that makes the paint work more tedious for you
>>
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>>5871277
I did glue the tracks on, but upper and lower hull aren't connected yet so it wasn't that bad actually.
You are right about the decals, especially the "Stalin"-slogan works great i think.

I did a bit of chipping and i'll give it a coat of satin varnish later today so i can continue tomorrow with some weathering products.
>>
>>5871033
do most people use a pancake compressor? They seem like theyre fairly large for air brushing
>>
>>5871392
I use a "real", albeit small (2l I think), compressor. But the important thing is that it has a regulator and moisture trap, also that it provides enough flow for your airbrush (check the cfm listed by the manufacturer of the airbrush and the max that can supply the compressor you are interested in). That said you could go to some hobby store that has airbrushing supplies and check their models and decide if buying in store is worth or search for the same model online.
>>
>tfw you're cutting out the control stick for the SU-47 and it flies off into carpet
just fuck my shit up
Guess I need to diy one now
>>
>>5871277
Yeah. I had bought a KV1 off eBay which was never sent and I got refunded so I used the money to buy the KV1S.

It's just been sitting in limbo for a while as I paid off car stuff and needed all of the money I had.

And the plan is to paint and weather it.
>>
>>5871614
Won't that thing be something like a third of a millimetre thick in 1/144? I guess you can be excused for not detailing it much further than "it exists" at least.
>>
>>5871677
Yeah, I think it was about 1mm around, and 5mm tall.
I'll probably 'make' a new one from a fat paperclip or something
>>
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Got my new camera today, just learning to set it up and do basic functions.

Yamato is coming along, the radar mast and array has been sprayed but everywhere else is still in the construction phase
>>
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I also got this in the mail today, my first resin figure.
>>
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>>5871695
I'll admit I am a little impressed by the figure in front of you, even after knowing what will come in the box
>>
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>>5871700
She looks a little freaky without any paint, but the clothes are nice at least
>>
>>5871701
>rukia lookalike
Thats a really nice kit, but how will you paint the clothes?
>>
>>5871716
Clear acrylics. Hope they stick without primer
>>
>>5871723
What are the clothes made of? I dont even know if clear primer for scale models exists, because clear acrylics tend to be rubbery and might peel without it. Maybe using varnish as a primer? Anyway until you try all is speculation
>>
Local hobby shop has a 1/35 Opel Blitz with a 20mm from Zvezda for 6 dollars so I'm heading off to the hobby store today
>>
>>5871745
Clearance or small scale? But afaik zvezda doesnt even have a 1:35 opel blitz
>>
>>5871701
That's... something. I guess I'll have this pop up in my mind in the future if I ever feel like doing something completely different. Clear soft plastic clothes, who could've though.
>>
>>5871701
Why would you want to add the clothes?
>>
>>5871736
It's clear resin, I sincerely hope acrylics will adhere.
>>
>>5871766
If I really wanted to I could sand away the bra and panties and sculpt her body out of epoxy putty, but I won't because a girl caught in the rain is more interesting than a nude in that pose.

Plus, you can just buy nude resin figures if that's what you need
>>
>>5871695
Well thats weird.
>>
>>5871693
mold seams and nubs everywhere...
shoddy sanding job...
what a waste of a kit
>>
>>5871614
Filtered
:^)
>>
>>5871794
k
>>
>>5871759
It may be 1/72 and just mislabeled on the catalogue
>>
>>5871614
Worse I've lost photo etch pieces <1mm in length to the carpet. Sometimes you're holding a piece in tweezers, and you squeeze them too hard and the piece ejects out like a fucking jet, and you're fucked.
>>
>>5871792
Not the OP, but it looks fine, I only see seams on the AA guns and it's 1/700 so they're tiny as fuck. I don't see any nubs either, stop being so judgmental.
>>
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Tada.

Took forever, it was all pretty straight forward to swap over, but I haven't messed inside anything like it before so it took a while.

Managed to get it all working though, the gun goes up and down, the turret rotates, it shoots BB pellets.
>>
>>5872355
>that cupola
plsno :(
I'd be very, very tempted to repaint it.
>>
>>5873004
The cupola will be staying. I'd prefer it not to, but it'd be a pain in the ass since that's where the BBs go. It just pops straight off, but I don't have anything to cover the resulting hole.

And I'll repaint it sometime definitely. The turret is noticably a different color to the rest of the tank and it bothers me.
>>
>>5873046
Actually I was just thinking on it and I might be able to still use the BB shooting thing, and get rid of the cupola, if I take some pieces from the KV1 turret I replaced. I'll have a look tomorrow
>>
>>5871297
CTAЛИHA? What the hell, that doesn't make sens. That's like writing "OF OBAMA" on a tank.
>>
>>5873051
No, it's not. The Soviets practically worshipped Stalin during the war.
>>
>>5873051
What do you mean? Is it written wrong? Or wrong grammer?
Or is it historically incorrect?
>>
>>5873092
>Grammer
the irony.

No, it's fine. That guy clearly knows nothing of the Soviets during WWII.
>>
>>5873100
I don't know, i just took the decals from different a Hobby Boss T-34 kit. Who knows if they mixed some letters up or anything, they are from China after all.
>>
>>5873103
I meant the guy bitching about it. The transfer is perfectly fine.
>>
>>5873092
it's just a noun in the accusative case, it needs a preposition or just some context to make sense
>>
What pigments do yall use? Looking for a set without breaking the bank.
>>
>>5873222
They all are priced almost equally, MIG, AK, Vallejo, Kromlech.. just pick what you need.
>>
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Got my parts from shapeways today. Never worked with 3d printed stuff before
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>>5873092
what this guy said: >>5873117
it lacks the preposition "for" or in russian "ЗA"(zah).

ЗA CTAЛИHA!
ДO БEPЛИHA!
>>
>>5873694
im guessing they borrowed the transfer from a kv something but didn't use the 3A cos it wouldn't fit.
>>
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Hasegawa's 1/72 Draken costs too much for what plastic you get in the box...
>>
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I'm happy with how this one came out though, regardless.
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>>5874034
how much?
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>>5874046
MSRP around $35-40

I got mine for $30 shipped, bought the J-35Ö boxing and got the Area 88 decals from a friend.
>>
>>5874064
Nice job, but the decals of the body have some silvering and the missile one is crooked.
>>
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>>5874068
Thanks, and yeah its not perfect by any means haha. Was my first time experimenting with oil washes though, I'm happy (enough) with how it came out. I guess I didn't use enough Micro Sol on the fuselage numbers.
>>
>>5874064
>MSRP around $35-40
Really, where did you get it? It's like $15 supposedly.
>>
>>5871701
I can only imagine how horrifying this will look after its painted. Pls paint and post pics asap.
>>
>>5874091
I think the washes came out very well
>>
>finally found hardware store that doubles as local model shop
Things are looking up lads.
>>
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I'm having awful trouble finding a part I need for my KV2. So I looked at the KV1 turret and it has one of these, but I don't want to start tearing into it.

Another guy has done a similar conversion, from captured KV2 to Soviet KV2, and he says he got this specific part from a dead link. Since it was 3 years ago not much point making a throwaway account and asking.

So what are these things actually called? Are they some sort of periscope?
>>
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>>5874291
Yes, those are periscopes. If you already have one you could recast it with resin (or scan it and print it in 3D if you are near a Uni or a fancy workshop) in case you can't find another. But probably a replacement is avaliable in eBay or somewhere. Why convert it back to a Russian one tho? A beutepanzer kv2 might be more interesting
>>
>>5874485
I'd consider that, I just don't like the Pz cupola. The other little things it came with, like the ammo rack and jerry cans I do like and would probably use.
>>
>>5873694
>>5873117
Thanks. i understand. Next time i'll ask about the decals before putting them on my tank.

Well i guess the commander of that certain tank is an illiterate from far far east and wouldn't know it better.
>>
>>5874206
That sounds cool actually.

Here model stores are mostly combined with toy stores and/or with train model stores.
>>
>>5874485
I'm sure there are more beutepanzer KV-2s than Soviet ones...
>>
>>5874968
Are there numbers about actual Beute-KVs? I know some where used by artillery units for observation, but besides that?
KV-2 wasn't very reliable after all, i doubt it was used alot.
>>
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This is a pretty fun build
Although I fucked up and lost the clear window for the radioman window so I'll have to assemble that hatch closed.
Granted, I'd be assembling it semi-closed anyway, as there's no interior so it would probably look better like that.
>>
>>5874999
Just replace it with a piece of blister pack.
>>
>want to buy gunpla
>ruble to yen is the worst it's been in months
>meanwhile the already closed local hobby store owner still has a bunch of stuff for cheap
I guessI'll be getting military plamo in the backlog then.
>>
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Easy to make thin CA applicator:
Cut off the top of a needle eye and sharpen it to a point. (Don't use sprue cutters to do this.)
Drill a hole in a wood dowel around 1/2" deep.
Coat the bottom of the needle in epoxy and stick it into the hole. Let it dry for a full 24 hours. (Don't use CA; it's not strong enough and will be damaged if you use CA debonder to clean the needle.)
Coat the handle with polyurethane to make it resistant to most solvents if you have to use a solvent to clear the needle. (It will also look and feel better. I used a stain/polyurethane mix.)

It's best to not let the CA dry on the applicator. Wipe it off with a paper towel after each use. The paper towel will rapidly absorb any thin CA on it. If CA does dry on it, you can manually scrape it off or use a CA debonder. I've heard you can also clean it off with a lighter, but I have never tried this.
>>
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Mudguards done, just need a bit more work due the poor dimensional finish in the back. The PE bending tool was quite handy to use. Much better than those pliers that used in my earlier builds, but I still don't get how someone can spend more than 20€ in that (mine costed 26€) as the others don't go lower than 40
>>5875302
I just use an old blade and scrap/sand the CA when it dires. Not very precise most of the time but does it job quite well
>>
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>>5875360
The reconstruction work on the lower side (PE fits poorly and the hull is deformed) and note the lack of coil buffer for the idler wheel arms (a resin kit exists that gives you those pieces and a panther style rear boxes but I can't find it). Also pic related is my trusty ca applicator
>>
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Priming stage 1
>>
>>5875437
Bah, the camera reveals more flaws than my own eyes.
>>
>>5875438
Same with my SU-47
I'm reasonably happy with it when I look at it, but when I take a picture it looks shitty.
Like, I know I didn't do a good job on assembly, but dang.
At least the paint is sorta ok.
I'm actually not sure if I'm gonna post it because y'all will tear me apart, even though I know it's shit.
>>
>>5875505
Post it, the worst that happens is we tear it apart; the best is you get some helpful advice. Regardless, it bumps the thread and increases the image count.
>>
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>>5875581
I just realized I forgot decals.
I'm skipping landing gear since I intend to put it on a stand or hang it 'in flight'
>no seam filling, or even sanding
Just painted and glued it, basically like snapfagging gunpla
>>
>>5875590
From that distance and angle I like it. But the nose has a horrible mark. Anyway being so small and as a complement for something else (?) I guess is good enough
>>
Ordered some metal detail bits and some metal sprocket and idler wheels for my KV2. I also own a Heng Long Tiger 1 and the track kept slipping off. I've heard that metal wheels will put a stop to that so here's hoping
>>
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>>5875724
I noticed that after I took the picture, it was a blob of super glue from my apparently sloppy application.
Cut it away with an xacto, it looks a bit better now.
I'll have to get a 1/72 scale plane or something and try my hand at it sometime, This kit was fun, just super small.
>>
>>5875590
holy shit, that's some horrible fitting(not your fault). ace model or zvezda are much better:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2057872.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.A0.H0.X1%2F144+Russian+Combat+Aircraft+S-37+BERKUT+ACE%231400.TRS5&_nkw=1%2F144+Russian+Combat+Aircraft+S-37+BERKUT+ACE%231400&_sacat=0
>>
>>5875753
Yeah, I wasn't stoked about the fitting once I put it together, but there wasn't much I could do aside from a ton of filler or something I guess.
It was the trumpeter kit, but it was $4, so I can't complain too bad.
Thanks for the link, anon!
>>
>>5875590
I think it looks nice.
>>
Holy shit 1/35 figures are tiny. Idk why I thought theyd be so big
>>
>>5875302
I've made something similar and using a lighter cleans up the glue pretty well, it's a good way of cleaning out those Revell cement needles that get clogged up too.
>>
>>5875951
Perfect size to not reveal your painting inexperience
>>
>>5874999
About bags and other stuff like tools that are strapped to the vehicles: is one meant to paint them separately then glue them on or just attach them and paint them there?
>>
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What storage/racks do you guys use for your paint?

Can you recommend me something? So far i keep my stuff simply on a shelf and in a drawer, but i want to have a more organized workspace.

I saw various options of paint stations/racks and before i order something i would like to hear some opinions.

The most attractive option is pic related so far, the paint stands made by vallejo. Only 2 of the straight ones and only one corner.

I also saw wall mounted ones by ammo of mig, but they cost more and shipping is way more expensive.
>>
>>5876420
I dont like leaving my stuff out in the open, as light can shift the colors of the pigment over time and heat can get to it too.
I used ot keep everything in tackle box, but I've moved over to keep most of my equipment in my desk drawers now.
>>
>>5876420
I use something nearly identical to this to store the majority of my stuff. I use a smaller unit on my desk to store often used tools and more paint. I have a separate plastic storage container for Vallejo paints.
>>
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>>5876671
I use these on my desk to store cement, CA, sandpaper and tools in use, thinners, stir sticks, Sharpies, etc.
>>
>>5876691
>Bandai
>Mediocre

If you knew what you were talking about, you'd know that Bandai only holds the Star Wars license in parts of Asia and that other companies hold it elsewhere. Not to mention the Bandai Star Wars kits are some of the best kits out there.
>>
>>5876698
This. You can't buy the Bandai SW kits in the US, without importing them directly from Japan. They don't have the US license, so you won't see them in US hobby shops.
>>
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>>5876691
>to produce Star Wars "scale models" when much better and experienced companies exist.

What makes you think other companies showed interest?

>>5876703
It could be worse: In Germany/EU Revell got the license, and all they did is producing pre-painted snap-fit toys and very easy kits (pic related) designed for children. At least these are dirt cheap.

But ordering from asia via ebay is easy and fairly cheap so its not that bad.
>>
>>5876711
Revell AG also holds it in the US
>>
>>5876711
>It could be worse: In Germany/EU Revell got the license

Revell got everywhere but Asia.

>is easy and fairly cheap

Ebay prices straight up are at least similar to what you'll pay in stores in Japan, but then you slap on 6-10 USD in shipping on top of that, for a 6 (Star Destroyer) to 20 (TIE) dollar model.

So it could certainly be a lot worse, we can get them, and thanks to Bandai being quite cheap it ain't a complete wallet rape. But still, Revell's intervention screws us over pretty badly.
>>
>>5876691
Are you fucking delusional, the bandai kits are the best modern releases to date
>>
>>5876729
I see. Good to know.

Still, ordering the 1:72 kits from bandai is not really a big deal and they are way better in detail than what i posted above (which costs around 5-10). Half of the Revell kits (Vaders Tie, Tie Interceptor and the X-Wing) come without flight stand, which only adds to the disappointment.

>>5876734
Shipping is free at most of these ebay stores. for example:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/BANDAI-Star-Wars-1-72-First-Order-Tie-Fighter-No-203218-JAPAN-/172058288857?hash=item280f7922d9:g:5LgAAOSwLN5Wkx3l

Or you pay half the price for the kit and the 2nd half for shipping like here:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Bandai-1-72-STAR-WARS-TIE-Fighter-DARTH-VADER-SIENAR-FLEET-The-Force-Awakens-/401174342368?hash=item5d67daaae0:g:NnIAAOSwBahVO04c

In the end its around 20€ either way, which is kinda fine to me since these fighters are fairly large (and their boxes are even larger).
>>
>>5876691
Dude.
>>
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>>5876698
>>5876711
>>5876745
>>5876765
>>
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Somewhat finished.

Still need to wash the figures and fix their faces, mainly the devil's eyes. Also need more work on the ground tracks. But considering this is the 1st diorama and case I've ever built I'm happy with it.
>>
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>>5876804
Stuff are still not glued to the ground. that why the shells are misaligned.
>>
>>5876808
>>5876804
Looking alright there, especially the Ontos itself is great.
If you have an airbrush at hand, try using it on the "earth", to add a bit of life.
As it is now, the color is a bit too bright and uniform, but the concept is alright.
Try using a matte coat on your figures after you finish painting them, at least the clothes should be matte.
>>
>>5876808
>>5876804

The minis look kinda bad. They need highlights (or at least a wash) and you shouldn't use gloss paint at all.

Check this:
http://modelbrush.com/videotutorial-painting-faces-in-28mm/

Getting the faces right is most important because its the faces people look at first.
>>
>>5876907
>They need highlights (or at least a wash)

You know, he did kinda write something about that stuff...
>>
>>5876804
That terrain is terrible dude
>>
>>5876804
This is one of those models that you dont display. You can be happy with the results and proud to have built it, but dont show anyone
>>
Anyone has tried to prime airbrushing tamiya liquid surface primer? (that liquid putty that comes in a white bottle similar to tamiya extra thin glue) I'm sure that you could do it thinned with tamiya lacquer thinner but I'm not really sure of the results or even if its worthy compared to decanting their primer spray can or just stick with vallejo grey primer (the main reason is its poor adherence to PE and it’s not sandable)
>>5876808
Being honest it looks quite bad as a diorama. The vehicle is not blended with the environment, the terrain is poorly done and the figures look half done and what the fuck are those eyes?
Its salvageable as it looks like an early construction stage overall rather than a finished diorama. First mark where the afv will stay and from where it came and disrupt the terrain accordingly, then give some texture to the ground with fine sand and rocks and some washes and pigments. Give the vehicle at least some dust with the same tones of the ground (or it was teleported there?) if you don’t want to do a heavier weathering. And for the soldiers finish them is my main advice
Vietnam had a reddish clay mud/dust in case you were wondering what colors use
>>
>>5877074
>>5877029
>>5877027
>>5876944
>>5876896
Perhaps I wasn't clear enough, the ground is definitely not finished, I just finished making the perspex case so I stuck it there and took the pic, but its not done. the figures as well.

Its obvious to see there is no connection whatsoever between the model and the ground and its flat and boring as hell, wash and pigments work is the next step
>>
>>5877182
In that case the plexiglass box is dope. Did you make it?
>>
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>>5877213
I did the same thing a few weeks ago using plexiglass I got at home depot, 2 sheets for $10 each cut down to proper dimensions. I used epoxy glue, which smelled fucking horrible, and it left some residue because the pieces were so thin that trying to glue them together meant them moving around a lot, smearing glue in places I didn't want it. I tried to clean it up and it looks alright I guess. I read somewhere that WD-40 can clean up epoxy glue stains off plexiglass, but I have yet to try it.
>>
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Doing pic related.
Any paint suggestions? Was thinking of doing a UN service tank with russian green chipping and small arms damage
>>
>>5874064
where did you get those shin´s logo decals? i want to get some for my crusader project
>>
>>5877622
Did you see that UN build on Armorama?
>>
>>5878066
Nah man u got a link?
>>
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This looks fucking awesome, Cherno Alpha from Pacific Rim in 1:350.

http://www.themodellingnews.com/2016/08/new-kit-from-max-factory-plamax-cherno.html

I wonder how large it will be in that scale though, I'm guessing at least 12" tall if not more.
>>
>>5878088
What a... gushing site. No undue negativity at least.

>I wonder how large it will be in that scale though

It says at the bottom of the page.
>>
>>5878088
>I wonder how large it will be in that scale though, I'm guessing at least 12" tall if not more.

Read the page. It's 240mm. And it has LED.
>>
So either Bandai's plastic can tends towards chalk, or the white spirits I have really don't like it. I was cleaning up the panel lining on a TIE, and things basically started crumbling. Even got a hefty crack right through the main body.
>>
>>5878351
Yes. Bandai plastic is notorious for reacting badly with white spirits and other enamel thinners. You really really need to glosscoat it well first. Doing the wash on bare pladtic will destroy it and even those wash markers for gunpla mention not to uses them on bare plastic.
>>
>>5878362
>You really really need to glosscoat it well first.

It's been primed, painted and varnished. On the other hand I ended up slopping on a very generous amount of white spirits since it was a few days since I did the panel lining, so the oil paint had gotten itself quite at home there. Guess that did it. Live and learn, and I guess it'll be creative photo angle time when I'm done.
>>
>>5878404
Weird. Never had that problem. You must be using strong stuff if it got through varnish, paint and primer
>>
post your best 1/35 figures? I need inspiration/advice. Do you weather the guns? Try to do wood grain? Paint the eyes?
>>
>>5878439
W&N

Poison might be in the dosage. We'll see in the future.
>>
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Assembling a lower hull while the transfers-go-here varnish dries.
>>
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Finished the the build. I did some PE handles for the track cable as the kit doesn't even mention it (but extrangelly includes four beautifully done ends) so I looked the voyager PE set and copied more or less their configuration. I regret not buying that a bit. Now a soap wash and preparing it for the primer.
I'm thinking of buying some lacquer thinner and trying the tamiya liquid primer as no one here seems to have any idea about it, it will be interesting to try it and report
>>5878553
Wut tonk?
>>
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>>5878602
M4A1 DV. Went with the Tasca/Asuka one as recommended here earlier. Seemed like it'd be a bugger to get everythign aligned with an eight piece lower hull, but the final result fits the upper hull very well, seems they had a really good design for the guide rails.

Fuck knows what's going on with their tooling though, it's gonna be a bitch to sand the hull and turret smooth.

...

...gotcha?
>>
>>5878616
That's a really nice kit, but I didn't get the texture part. You don't want the cast texture on your tank? Or you don't like tasca texture?
I'm not really an expert about allied afv but weren't almost all early Sherman's hull and turrets made with casting? Why do you want to sand it down?
>>
>>5878650
Just joking. Texture's marvellous, but I guess someone who didn't know about casting textures and whatnot could be left scratching his head.
>>
>>5878650
The issue with a lot of cast-metal parts for plastic models is mold lines from the plastic casting. I had one from a kit (I forget which), but I effectively had to sand down the entirety of the textured parts to get the mold lines out, which removed the point in having the texture in the first place.
>>
>>5878602
I was going to say something about the primer question, but I got drunk with my co-workers instead.

I've Airbrushed Tamiya primer before and it works pretty well, just keeping in mind to spray a few coats and thin well. Turns out like the can variety of primer.

What scheme for the Lowe will you do? Anything in mind?
>>
>>5878679
>>5878677
Ahh. Well I've seen some people going but over the "inaccurate cast texture" of some models and re doing them with putty and cement and stuff like that and it surprised me to see that dedication here. In the Löwe I should done some more textures in the hull perhaps and some weld lines but meh I like it this way and neither could get references for it.
>>5878703
Nice, I thought it should work but I wasn't sure 100% so thanks for confirming it.
As for the paint job I'm set to do a "octopus" pattern with amig resedagrun and amig aus44 dunkelgelb unless I find another scheme that caugh my eye. I'll set it in the winter of 45 holding the line in reconquered Poland (im planning to do some more paper/prototype German afvs so I'm creating a setting, despite how autistic it sounds it helps me to weather them and stuff) and over that octopus base a little surprise that, if I can pull it off, will look awesome
>>
>>5878753
>neither could get references
>Lowe
Heh, good luck with that :^)
I know the feeling, having made an E-25.
>>
>>5878814
Yeah... I had a vague hope to find something more than very basic technical and design drawings, but what could I expect from something that didn’t get even a mock up
>>
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There, that's probably where we call it done, before anything falls off and buggers off completely. Let me get a feeling for oil work, which does seem like good shit. Certainly some spots that didn't end up like I'd hoped, but I'll take it for a first try at such, especially with real life making sure the oils dried in real good before I could do the cleanup.

After this and the JAS39, I am quite looking forward to NOT painting the Sherman grey.
>>
>>5878916
Other starwts guy here. Looks great.

Im planning on getting the interceptor soon
>>
>>5878918
Probably the best looking fighter in Star Wars IMO, but I eventually went with the classic here, thanks to the unaerodynamic looking charm.
>>
>>5878083
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=165274&ord=&page=1
>>
>>5876734
This is like karma for all the years of bitching about Bandai's injection molding practices for gunpla.
>>
>>5878992
Someone fill me in, I used to build Gundams like 10+ years ago, what are the problems people have with their injection molds compared to military scale model companies like Tamiya, Hasegawa, etc?
>>
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>>5870134
>mfw the carpet monster took one of the seals from my airbrush

Its midnight now so I´ll continue the search tomorrow.
>>
>>5879016
Undergated parts
Color separation
Tight fitting tolerances between parts

in b4 just like muh legos they say
>>
>>5879138
>Undergated parts
>Color separation
>Tight fitting tolerances between parts

Those are all great things.

I especially dont understand why people dont like colour separation. If you prime, it literally makes no difference at all but allows some people to make the purchase where they might otherwise not.
>>
>>5879242
because they hate how it's babby modo and how you don't have to research for (historical) references like them crusty whitebeards do.
>>
>>5879264
You can make anything as hard as you want.

If the premise is that colour separation makes it hard to achieve a uniform base coat, then it makes it "harder" by forcing you to prime more opaquely

If they dont like it too easy because of the colour separation, then the first point is moot.
>>
>>5878952
Hoky shit thats a lot of extra boys
>>
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1/35 Lee Enfield compared to actual enfield
>>
>>5879388
Dont work the bolt on me or my son ever again
>>
>>5879433
>>5879388
Dont mad minute me or my son again
>>
Fuck, I don't know what I want to work on.
>>
>>5879467
Whats builds do you have going on?
>>
>>5879471
Better question is what don't I have going. Can't paint till Fall so looking to start something in the meantime.
>>
>>5879476
Get some easy tamiya or 1/72 aircraft my dude. The tamiya cromwell or jagdpanzer IV are both fun builds.
>>
>>5879492
Fun builds for me are kits like Bronco's FlaK 41.
>>
>>5879495
This was the easiest diagnosis for autism ever.
>>
>>5879507
What do I win?
>>
>>5879507
Why?
>>
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First 1/35 figure ever done. Face isnt perfect but Im REALLY happy with the uniform. Rifle is nicely detailed but not a lot of room for work there. Any advice moving forward?
>>
>>5879510
20 fucking sprues a d at least 12 hours of buikding +painting
>>
>>5879527
>20 fucking sprues and at least 120 hours of building + painting
FTFY
>>
>>5879526
>Face isnt perfect

Yeah, that's a store mannequin. Bad mould liens along the legs btw.
>>
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>>5878916
Looks nice. Now i really want one of these Bandai Tie Fighter kits too, instead of my 2 shitty revell toys.

But you should do something with the base too. At least a wash.
>>
>>5879467
Try something different from what you usually do.
Paint a bust of some historical soldier or get a sci-fi kit.
>>
>>5879526
Hard to tell from your pic, but it seems you simply painted the face/hands in one single tone of flesh color.
>>
>>5870824
They are releasing a 1/72 Original trilogy Falcon soon
>>
>>5879956
Keeping it plain for now to make it as un-attention grabbing as possible. We'll see about the future.
>>
>>5879388
I kind of want to line up 35 of the 1/35 and see if they're accurately scaled or not
>>
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>>5879388
Seeing this (and coming from a no-gun-country):

Has anyone ever built one of these gun-kits?
Like pic related
>>
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>8 figs plus m40 big shot
shit man, this thing is getting loaded
>>
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>>5879963
>>5879852
Noted. Face/hands got a light wash but the molding on the figure leaves something to be desired. Not making excuses but its molded with half closed eyes and lips. Did some highlights/lowlights but that was about it. Ive got 4 other figures in the kit so Ill try to do a little better moving forward
>>
Decided to start my Tristar Pz.IV D. Not committing to it, though. Not sure I want to deal with the poor fitting hull at the moment. Also not sure if I want to build it as a standard panzer or a tauchpanzer.
>>
>>5880131
Didn't know they started adding AFVs to figure sets. Neat
>>
>>5879355
They don't like Bandai kits because a lot of the detail work is already done for you, and they try to hide seams and mold lines where you don't need to putty them up like you normally do.

Their other gripe is how Bandai is liberal with authentic surface detail to better hide seam lines on the model, whereas other brands are more accurate to the source material but have ill-fitting parts that need to be worked more.
>>
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Probably my favorite thing about models is comparing how your skill set changes and grows, even after only a day. After seeing this side by side I cant imagine how I thought the first one looked good.

Imagine how it will look tomorrow?

I promise I'll stop spamming now
>>
>>5879016
Snap together lego kits for babbies
>>
>>5880030
I dont think it works that way.
>>
>>5880579
It literally does
>>
>>5880579
It actually does. Though using a ruler would be a lot easier.
>>
>>5880579
Of course it does
>>
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So, I got the AK Flesh and Skin color set. Is the base color supposed to be this red? All my figures will look like they got a sunburn. The shadow colors are also too freaking red for my taste. Bottom dot is base, top dots are shade colors.
>>
>>5880579
You silly
>>
>>5882239
Light Flesh is the color you should use above the "base flesh".
>>
>>5882239
Pretty sure thats for shadows and such
>>
>>5882258
>>5882250
I know which colors I am using, thank you. The problem is that the flesh base is too red, it's supposed to act as shading when I apply the lighter colors, but guess what? Sunburn.
>>
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>>5882239
I have this set myself (using it for 28mm minis) and most of the time i only use base and light flesh in combination with a (very red-ish) wash made by Vallejo (Flesh wash).

Pic related are a couple of minis i painted recently. Still WIP and far from being finished, but the faces look nothing like sunburn.
>>
>>5870824
excellent work
>>
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Done priming except for the wheels and wheel hubs, because I didn't feel like preparing all of them for painting. I should do it as cutting time preparing shit always ends wasting more time in later stages.
Also I couldnt get lacquer thinner without ordering it so I did it with Vallejo primer in more layers and thinner than usual (for plastic is excellent but it doesn't bind with the PE and can be peeled easily, so I hope it holds better this way)
>>5882239
>>5882267
It's worth it to get those sets? (Vallejo or ak) I'm a noob in figure painting as I don't even have flesh colors but I should get to it some day.
>>
Oh, I wasn't even aware this kind of thread existed save for /tg/. Kind of weird I came here to /toy/ looking for a possible scale train thread. I guess the question I asked the /hwg/ would actually be pretty appropriate here if no one minds:

I've been thinking about transitioning my shitty youtube channel into something that isn't shit and one of my ideas was scale model stuff (+ a little wargaming maybe) with unboxings of different sets and that. I've noticed that a lot of online hobby stores barely even have images of what you actually get with the stuff, so I figured I could at least fill a gap when people google it.

Hopefully I could expand it into modelling and that eventually. I've been doing wargaming for almost 20 years, and I am a history buff so I can at least tell the accuracy of miniatures and that.

Thoughts? My other idea is a Linux gaming channel which I'm really not so keen on. I just want to do something though.
>>
>>5882553
Honestly there is no gap. Basically every kit has unboxing vids/reviews online. Youre about 5 years late
>>
>>5882553
>Linux gaming channel
Wew
Back on topic, honestly there's a ton of "real" reviewers of kits (as in published magazines or stablished websites), anyway there's also a lot of dudes doing unboxings AND doing the kit in question so I don't know what you could add to make it worth it. You could review rare resin kits and aftermarket perhaps if you just want to unbox as people would see what's and how it is, but again, if you aren't really entertaining and/or knowledgeable what you could say doesn't really matter (you can for example test in what kits it fits or things like that for example to add value). Basically your main focus could be war gaming kits really, I don't have any idea of how things are for those but you could gain some advantage if you play and know your shit. Don't take it as a personal attack but if all you gonna do is breath into the mic while fondling sprues dont do it and waste your time doing kits or whatever
>>
>>5882553
The market is saturated right now.
>>
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>snagged Italeri's Autoblinda 40 and Semovente L40 47/32 for 24 USD
>>
>>5879976
Damn, I don't know where I'd even put it. But since I want the other kits it'd look so nice next to some other ships that are in the same scale
>>
>>5882545
>It's worth it to get those sets? (Vallejo or ak)

I'm the guy with the 28mm miniatures.
I think it depends largely on what you are doing.
That set covers your needs for kinda everything "face-related" but i think you need to be a very skilled painter to make use of it fully.

As i stated above, i skip the part with the shadow paints and simply use a wash to create shadows. Its easier and faster. Would i paint minis in larger scales or even busts (or if i could simply paint better ofc) then i might try these paints for the shadow areas, but for me those 2 mentioned colors + wash are usually enough. I've used the "Highlight flesh" for some special character minis but in my opinion it makes the skin to bright/white-ish and i like the result better without it. Cheekbone glaze is also something i tried using, but i think it would work better if the mini were bigger so its effect can be seen better

In retrospective that set was wasted money for me since i only use 2(3) of the 6 paints included, but whatever. Maybe i need them one day.
>>
Looking to get models lower than retail but I can't find any model / toy shows in Calgary, anyone know any other ways (pawn shops flea markets etc)
>>
>>5882778
ebay, pages like craigslist
>>
>>5882764
I though so, with a base flesh and some highlight color and shadow it would be enough for me. Using all those tones is something a pro will pull off but would be wasted in my case.
How are ak acrylics compared to vallejo or tamiya for handbrushing? I ask because amig acrylics are exquisite for airbrushing but varies a lot (mostly for the worst) when used with a brush
>>
>>5882778
From Asia. Usually cheaper shipping by buying individually.
LuckyModel
SincereHobby
HobbyLinkJapan
Etc
>>
>>5882809
These flesh paints are (among some weathering stuff) the only products from AK i own and they are really nice for brush painting. I usually thin them with water. I really like them and they are superior than Vallejo flesh colors (i have "heavy skintone" and "pale skin") as well as superior to citadel/games workshop skin paint.

Vallejo (i have some game color, model color and a few model air paint bottles) i usually thin them more than the AK paint. (air less obviously).

I found game color the weakest here, (never tried game air). Game "extra opaque" is very good though.

I never had problems brush painting MIG actually, but some of their paints need a few coats to cover properly. ("Rubber & Tires" and "Bakelite" come to mind) and i would rate Tamiya the worst when it comes to brush painting. I really dislike their paint, but that comes from a 100% brush guy so yeah. Maybe i change my mind if i own an airbrush some day.
>>
Are there counterfeit model kits?
>>
>>5882818
That largely depends on the price of the kit though. For example, in germany you have to pay customs for everything you import thats above 21€. If kit + shipping is less 21€ then its really almost a steal compared to regular prices here, but if its over 21 then the price becomes nearly the same.

Some ebay sellers mark their packages as "gift" though, without stating the value of the stuff inside. That can go well, or the customs office checks the box and you have to pay the fee.
>>
>>5882841
For me amig paints hand brushed have been a pretty inconsistent experience in results and application, maybe I don’t have the thinning ratios well done or I’ve been relying too much on the airbrush lately, but I didn’t have those problems with vallejo or tamiya (I must say that tamiya are my personal favorite for all uses and never let me down, but as always each one has their preferences) which made me wary of trying colors that mostly will be used with a brush from new brands.
I’ll try AK next if they have stock at my hobby shop, but I think they are going more to the amig side, I personally prefer that than the pricks from ak but a good product is a good product I guess.
>>5882843
What do you mean? A tamiya box with some shitty version of the kit or a brand that copied the tamiya sprues almost 1:1 (for example)?
Anyway I think that getting the kit you want in a sale or waiting to have the dosh is better than risking a shitty waste of money, and kits aren't that pricy
>>
>>5882843
There certainly are. Not sure if historical scale kits are victim of that, but you can order Warhammer kits from chinese recasters if you have their email address. Quality varies but their prices are like 1/3 of the real thing.

I'm not sure if that would work with "regular" scale kits though. They are generally not as expensive compared to overpriced warhammer stuff and their parts are notably smaller making it harder to re-cast i guess. But i admit i haven't looked into that topic all that much, so who knows..
>>
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I was gonna buy flesh paints.

I just bought one the palest colour I could that looked nice online, but when I got it and it dried it looked terrible.

since every other paint was darker than that and that was too dark I didn't bother wasting my money.

just looked up how to mix it myself I have all the colours anyway its easy.

for 1:35 scale or even bigger its fine cos you don't really use that much paint and you can get exactly the colour your looking for.
much cheaper than buying all the paint kits.
>>
>>5883102
Can you tell us / show which one is the skin colour
>>
>>5882841
Tamiya acrylics arent really designed to be hand brushed.

I found great results with hand brushing their enamel range though.
>>
>>5883580
skin is a mixture of yellow red blue and white.
you adjust it to make it more red purple or pale or darker.
>>
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>>5882545
And now almost done with the base coat. I been thinking about the best way to do a octopus scheme with the minimal waste of paints and color overlapping and masking. I ordered some amig putty mask (panzer putty for Germans or something similar to silly putty to Americans (?)) but won't arrive till late this week or next I suppose so I went with the plan of doing a base in dunkelgelb so I don't have to mask a lot and then coat everything in resedagrun. But the thing is that the last order issued about painting was that all the vehicles were to be painted green and then apply camo at the deposit (but irl that didn't matter as most of the production was blown to smitherins so there were little afvs produced under the last orders and most of the park was rebuilds). What I mean with all of this is what you guys think would be better:
Paint the lower hull and wheels with dunkelgelb or paint the lower hull and wheels in resedagrun to keep it """"historical""""
I though I wouldn't like this late pale dunkelgelb but looks quite nice
>>5883995
Maybe is because they were my first paints and I worked for years with them hand brushing, but for me are (almost) perfect as a workhorse and don't get what this "bad for and brushing" comes
>>
>>5884419
The Lowe was actually an earlier project afaik, and was replaced by the Tiger II. Don't quote me on this but regarding the supposed production start time, Dunkelgelb seems good.
You know what, it's a Paper Panzer anyways so do whatever you like. It's not like anyone will come up and say "Bah that's not historical".
>>
>>5884474
>The Lowe was actually an earlier project afaik, and was replaced by the Tiger II

Wiki claims it would have replaced both Tigers, but was dropped for the Maus.
>>
>>5884482
That works too.
I am not a Lowe expert in any way so thanks for clarifying.
>>
>>5884474
>>5884482
What you (both) say it's true, the good (and bad) thing about paper panzers is the freedom they give. I'm going to finish the hull in dunkelgelb and do some wheels in green and yellow to add some variety. Despite basing the tank itself in the winter of '45 I will stick to dunkelgelb atm.
On a slightly related note, anyone else is hyped with takom release of the TK? Or meng future release?
>>
>>5884595
No
>>
>>5884732
y tho?
And
>i-i-it's just a-another ww2 tonk that has tons of kits a-a-already
its not a valid excuse as one includes full interior and real armor thickness for maximum show off points and the other is to be expected to pull off the best kit of the KT ever done
>>
>>5884746
Can't afford it and I'm not interested in the subject
>>
>>5884770
Same
>>
>>5884770
>>5884778
Sad
>>
>>5884778
>>5884998
Honestly, ,not those guys but to me I really don't care because it's another fucking German WWII kit. There's nothing interesting about the KT, we already have hundreds of kits of it, it's been done tens of thousands of times.

I'm not saying it won't be a decent kit, it's just boring honestly.
>>
>>5885038
I see your point and I absolutely agree, while they are busy doing what literally everyone else has already done several times, lots of interesting and bizarre paper tanks and rare vehicles get little to no attention.
The only upside I see is for modelers that have not done a KT yet but want to.
>>
>>5884306
>>5883102
I meant what the "terrible " paint looked like as he said it looked bad
>>
>>5884595
I'm going to get the takom king tiger when I have time to build it. Full interiors are my weakness
>>
Anyone got a model kit buying adiction? I like buyying kits and aftermarket but I barely build any kits.
>>
>>5885562
if I can be bothered ill get it out, and let some dry so you can compare it to the bottle.
>>
>>5886094
Kind of. I have bad anxiety stemming from a medical issue. If I keep my hands busy I feel better. I used to do woodworking, then I got into gun building/repairing/restoration. I moved on to models because its a lot cheaper but still keeps me busy.
>>
>>5886183
G3 guy?
>>
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Boogey woogie.

>>5886094
Whether you're looking at scale model builders, the guys over in the Gunpla tread, or many Warhammer players or so, you probably won't have to look for long to find a lot of guys with quite significant stashes. Though perhaps not outright addictive amounts.

I've managed to keep it under control, mostly, so far, but I only relapsed into this kind of thing a few months ago...
>>
>>5884595
>>5886016
I've ordered the 505 abt version, can't wait to get to it but it will be a slow build because the good neet life comes an end and now I got be a normie again sadly
For those interested:
http://www.moxingfans.com/new/news/2016/0812/2302.html
>>5886094
I always try to buy only what I feel like I will build (and finish) so I don't have a stash, except for a chieftain that I don't really know what to do with it. It's so easy to fall down the slippery slope in this hobby that I think it's more common to have a stash than keeping it "clear"
>>
>>5886094
I have a huge stash. If i stop buying new stuff today, i doubt i would run out of kits before 2020.
>>
>>5886265
No, FAL guy
>>
>>5886137
Alright, Thanks!
>>
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I need your help guys.

After spraying my tank with satin varnish i got this ugly white-ish effect. (pic related).

I have read up about that issue and it might have been caused by to much humidity in the spray area.

I also saw a ton of suggestions how to fix it, ranging from
>apply a coat of gloss varnish
to
>put the miniature/model into the oven for 30 minutes, then apply another coat of varnish and bake it again... wait 24 hours and repeat.

Others said to soak it with cleaner/white spirits to remove the varnish

Have you ever encountered this problem?
What can i do that really helps?
>>
>>5887697
aerosol or airbrush?
>>
>>5887815
aerosol spraycan
>>
>>5887817
There's your problem. Aerosol varnished are notorious for clouding. I've had success using olive oil to negate the effects of fogged/clouded varnish, but use at your own peril. I simply brushed it on to the affected areas, let it sit for a few days, then carefully removed any excess.
>>
>>5887697
You could try to give it another layer or varnish it with another kind (gloss, matt). What >>5887831 said about olive oil might work but the final result might be bad and probably you can't work on top of that. Maybe you could hand brush the varnish? Use a spray (the cleaner or cosmetic type you know?) to do another layer? Or maybe say fuck it and do a winter vehicle
>>
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>>5887893
This kind I mean
>>
>>5887893
>>5887831
I'll try the olive oil and if its not working a 2nd coat of different varnish. by brush this time.

Thanks for the help.
>>
>>5870134
Can someone give me a good site to buy Star Wars model kits from? I would like to buy Clone Troopers in particular but the price is over 30$ everywhere and I would prefer something in the range of the two older Stormtroopers, 25$ (incuding shipping). I can only find Ebay, Plamoya and random webshops which are far more expensive.
>>
>>5887969
Have you checked http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/, http://hlj.com and http://www.amiami.com ?
>>
>>5887975
>>5887969

Most (if not all) of the Japanese site that sell to foreigners are no longer allowed to sell the Bandai Star Wars kits, as Bandai only has a license to make kits for the Japanese market (Revell has the rights for NA and EU and probably had something to do with this). You're basically stuck buying from resellers on Ebay or Amazon. Besides, the MSRP for the clonetroopers is 2592 yen, so $30+free shipping sounds reasonable
>>
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Would you look at that, they actually made holes for the bolts that'd keep the front piece attached to the main lower hull tub. Only a full set on the left though, on the right only the top and bottom one has a proper hole, in between there's just shallow circles marking the outline of where they'd be.

And now it's all permanently hidden within the hull.

I'm really impressed with the fit of everythign so far. We've something like ten parts in the lower hull, six of which tough the upper hull and three that tough the front piece, and then the front piece has four relevant parts, with three each needing to fit against the upper and lower hull respectively.

So a lot of shit that could go wrong, yet all said and done the upper hull outright snapped in place onto the lower hull, I could hold it (right side up) and gently shake it all up and down without the lower hull falling out. The front piece wasn't held in place in the same way, but still fit beautifully.
>>
>>5887969
Thats the price man. The good ones are hard to get in the states
>>
>>5888215
I love that kind of detailing, it’s sad that 90% of the time it will be lost forever but gives you that quality feeling, also if you plan to make a burn out tank or a repairing vignette it eases the build a lot without having to resort to modifications and too much aftermarket.
On a slightly related note, nobody seems to comment shit about wip posts unless you state a problematic, which would liven up the thread or perhaps spark discussion if that was more common
>>
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Getting better
>>
>>5887953
Just be warned that the oil can be difficult to remove entirely
>>
Do you guys know where i could find a seated soviet ww2 pilot in 1:72? (or a pilot that might look close enough to fit as a soviet)
I already checked scalemates, but i only found modern pilots
>>
>>5889583

So far the olive oil soaked tank looks kinda good, and the white effect from the varnish isn't visible any more. I'll let the parts sit until tomorrow and then try to clean it and see how it looks then

If it isn't working and i can't fix it then at least i learned something at the cost of a 18€ kit.
>>
>>5889586
http://armorymodels.com/catalogue/1-72-2/172-figures/
Has Brits and a lot of different things except wwii Soviet pilots but maybe with the others you can work it out
http://www.aires.cz/en/product/russian-pilot-wwii/13-2541/
Has what you need if you want it posing next to the aircraft (or you could mod it to seat if you are god tier and can't find it anywhere)
A more extensive search might discover more but mainly pilots are in 1:32 or for more modern russian planes in what I found
>>
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>>5889645
>but maybe with the others you can work it out

I guess at that scale and inside a cockpit the difference won't be noticeable. I'll see whats available.

After seeing resin sculpts for like 10€, i figured it might be cheaper to buy a kit that comes with a pilot and use that.

Pic related is my next kit btw, i was kinda disappointed when i opened the box earlier today and saw that there is no pilot included since i want it to be mid-air.
>>
>>5888872
Looking like a person. Albeit one who was a bit deficient in ducking just a moment ago.
>>
does anyone here knows a good french modelling website?

I know they tend to gather in their own forums and barely spread around,but I'm searching stuff for some french subjects and more things I can gather the merrier it is

SA 330 Puma Pirate
Gazelle
Mirage III S and III NG
Mirage 4000 details regarding underwing fuel tanks
Mirage IV
1/72 Rafale kits comparison
Possibly Etendard IV P o Super Etendard even if there is not an accurate Etendard 1/72 in terms of shapes and dimensions
Mirage 2000D
Possibly some modern wheeled military vehicles too as I have a VAB from Heller and I don't know tits about it

thank you
>>
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Based amig send me what I bought with the KT preorder, that got delayed, and gave me a voucher and free shipping. 10/10
Now I can continue with the Löwe. As always if anyone is curious about something just ask.
>>5889680
>chaika
Heh
If that's a plane of the civil war/pre ww2 the armorymodel link has some wwi/civil war pilots if you need them
>>5889724
I don't know any French site despite living in a neighboring country but armorama/missing Lynx shouldn't be enough?
>>
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>get Revell T-90A
>there isn't a light on it without a massive sinkhole
>there is a sinkhole on the fume extractor
>so many spillings
Might as well have gotten a plastic block to chizzle into a model.
>>
>>5871701
How are you going to deal with the seams on the clear shirt? It's going to look weird.

>>5876804
>>5876808
"Um, hey buddy... you're going to need to open those breeches."
>>
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I always wanted to make the Oscar EW-5984 Phallus Tactical Fighter-Bomber from the movie Hot Shots! It started as a 1/48 Airfix Gnat, and I gave it a modern USN Tactical Paint Scheme, but I kept the high-vis markings.
>>
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>>5890289
Another pic of my Phallus.
>>
>>5890291
>>5890289
That's a nice phallus. It's very... phallic.
>>
>>5890246
I cant decipher this for the life of me
>>
Anyone have experience with Zvezda?
>>
>>5890342
I'm quite proud of it. Sadly, the kids don't appreciate it like I do. I'm going to have to show them the movie, where they can see it action.
>>
>>5890407
yes
>>
>>5890289
>>5890291
Well, I'm off to a re-watch.
>>
>>5890407
Depends, what do you have in mind?
>>
>>5890407
Yes got the Tiger 1
>>
>>5890419
You're on a list now
>>
>>5890246
Next time Anon, read online reviews first. Scalemates exists for a reason.
No pity from my side because that was entirely avoidable.
>>
>>5890407
Good prices.
Quality of their kits varies.
>>
>>5891210
I was quite happy with the T-90 kit, didn't expect this kind of sloppiness with the T-90A.
>>
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What should I build?
>>
>>5891344
Build the Horch.

Why?
Because Horchs founder also founded Audi and i drive one.
>>
>>5891344
Halftrack with the flak gun
>>
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I'm not sure if it will look well as I'm more of a freehand painter and masking always looks weird to plan to me. I've change it two times already and still doesn't look quite right but fuck it, Jesus take the wheel
>>
>>5891348
Is that panzer putty? Was it worth it? :^)
>>
>>5891350
Waste of money. You can buy white poster putty in bulk for cheap.
>>
>>5891344
Tetra.

>>5891348
Lion Gundyr.
>>
>>5891350
>>5891355
Yes it's the amig rebrand, as I can't find silly putty here (all the similar products are too slimy) and blutack leaves nasty residues and its single use. So atm I say it's worth it, although I though it would be more soft and takes some time to "sit". Easy to work and fills all the surface so it's better than tape masking, except for geometrical patterns of course
>>5891344
I'd say the 7/2 or the sws, but probably the tetrarch will be a funnier build
>>5891357
>Lyon gundyr.
Wot?
>>
>>5891361
>amig
Who the fuck is amig?
>>
>>5891364
ammo of mig jimenez
>>
>>5890004
>company name is smaller than Mig's name
Mig Jimenez is an egotistical piece of shit and it's no wonder 2 companies he's worked for fired him.
>>
>>5891361
>Wot?

https://youtu.be/71HqC-kHF_g?t=1m22s

The black mess he sweats out.

>>5891372
Yeah yeah, we know, now get back under your bridge before a bear or something moves in.
>>
>>5891377
How's Jimenez's cock taste?
>>
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>>5891348
First layer, it's more pale than I wanted but still gotta finish before deciding to darken it or not
>>5891372
>>5891379
>doesn't know shit about the drama™
>talks shit anyway
The name is a big fuck you to the assholes in ak and the bitch exwife that both kicked him out to make quick dosh once the companies were stable and making dosh. He can name it whatever he wants.
>>5891377
Ahhh
>>
>>5891348
Why not just use silly putty? That's pretty much exactly what the stuff looks like, and I'll bet it's the same shit.
>>
>>5891407
>>5891361
>>
>>5891162
Already there.
>>
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The olive oil worked almost perfectly. I still need to clean it from a few areas, but the frost-effect of the varnish is gone.
>>
>>5891433
>using olive oil on a model
you're supposed to use maple syrup
>>
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>>5891380
This is what it looks like. Maybe I should have used olivegrün opt 1 if I wanted the same color as the famous KT pic or the trusty tamiya xf13. Not that I dislike it but is not what I had in mind.
>>5891433
>Ride eternal, shinny and green
Do you think that you can work on top of that? I'm curious as olive oil doesn't sound like the best surface to paint on top
>>
>>5891444
i'll see.

Its varnished with a glossy satin varnish actually, so its supposed to look shiny at this point anyways.

Next step is brush painting a coat of varnish on and see if that sticks.
>>
>>5891433
>olive oil
bleach and windex make pretty blue crystals
>>
>>5870134
What model is this? Looks like it's a decent size and has a good sculpt.
>>
>>5880031
The Japanese used to make 1:1 scale gun kits. I bought a few in Canada. I had a Colt 1911, a Walther P-38, a Walther PPK, and an M16A1. The M16 was about $200, the rest were $15 - $20. All the moving parts, and realistic enough to scare the shit out of people. Probably why they don't sell them any more. :(
>>
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Thunderbird 1 "scale" model. Kit by Aoshima, original decals (which supposedly aren't accurate), custom paint and weathering. I think it turned out pretty good.
>>
>>5891518
needs some pin washes and panel line work
>>
>>5891450
You know I recommended the olive oil not knowing you intended to add more to the model, right?
I mean, it MIGHT work, but I highly doubt it. Make sure you remove as much of the oil as possible.
I also love the people taking the mick out of a perfectly good technique they don't know about :^)
>>
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God fucking damn it, Eduard
>>
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>>5891444
And the final result, except two parts were I masked poorly with all the changes on the pattern, there's no bleed and it's easy as fuck to use. It reminds me more of some post ww2 Russian/Middle East colors than German really right now
>>5891578
>that fitting
Wew atleast their kits are cheap and give you all the PE and masks I guess
>>
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>>5891609
It's the weekend edition
>>
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So, first major bit where shit isn't quite so rosy, as checking some photos I notice that Shermans aren't supposed to have a bigass seam along the lower rear of the turret.

After having worked a bit now with Tamiya's extra thin cement I really like it. Though it also made me run down to the DIY and buy a gas mask. Still, good to have for their putty too I think.

>>5891609
Looking good so far.
>>
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Fucking planes.
>>
>>5891609
Have you got an image of a scheme you're copying?
>>
>>5891665
By the noise in the pic you'd think it'd be a Thunderscreech.
>>
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>>5891609
And with some octopus rings, now it looks like a ww2 German afv again. Although I like the scheme aesthetically and because it's a late war pattern I chosen it, I don't really see its effectiveness compared to the ambush or tri-tone camo schemes on the field really
>>5891619
PTSD in a kit. On the bright side it will hone your skills overall
>>5891663
I have no idea about Shermans and probably what you did was the right thing, but maybe depending on the manufacturer or year that thing was supposed to be there
>>
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>>5891676
Yes, this is the original pic (I think its in color in the original too)
>>
>>5891701
>octopus rings
Oh, it's THAT scheme. I do like that one.
>>
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>>5891703
And this one for a general view of how was supposed to be applied to all the KT
>>
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>>5891701
>but maybe depending on the manufacturer or year that thing was supposed to be there

Not impossible, but luckily I have a pic showing that bit of the specific tank I'm building. And Albert Speer.
>>
>>5891720
A true scholar, do you have the decals for all that markings tho?
>>
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>>5891724
Not the German ones, so it'll be built pre-capture.
>>
>>5891489
Bandai's 1/144 I think.
>>
>>5891929
Ah looks larger than that. Thought maybe the 1/72 revell but didnt' think it was that good.
>>
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Anyone here who could tell me where Dragon saw this thing, or if there's any picture to be found online?

Panzer 4 Ausf F2, unknown unit, eastern Eruope, 1943.

>>5892002
Revell's good stuff, Master series or whatever they call it, is Finemold's old kits reboxed. So better than the other crap. Still, didn't the guy building this mention having a square (aka TFA) dish? Finemolds is round IIRC.
>>
>>5892023
What, the colour scheme, or the Panzer IV Ausf F2?
>>
>>5891609
Whats up with that texture?
>>
>>5892023
>>5892002
Yea its the bandai 1/144. Incredibly detailed but I had to get a round dish 3d printed


On a side note the revell kits are absolute shit
>>
>>5891609
For the love of God please paint gun
>>
>>5892107
Revell kits of what are shit? Star wars? Yes. Others? Not so much.
>>
Italeri F4U 4B 1/72.
Piece of shit kit, didn't enjoy it at all. Only fun part was priming it.
Bluntly Inaccurate, rockets are crammed together, tons of flash, fit was bad and only later after applying the decals I've noticed the inaccurate xboxhueg decals on the engine cowling, but i dont care anymore.

Still not finished and need panel lines and wash, but I have no motivation to do so whatsoever.
>>
>>5892091
Paint scheme and markings.
>>
>>5892436
>Star wars? Yes.
The old 1/48 finemolds kits are awesome. (and expensive)

>Others? Not so much.

Lots of them are. If you don't read reviews for revell kits you'll get burned.
They rebox lots of kits from other companies, so its really hit or miss.
Can't complain about their general prices though.
>>
>>5892742
Revell's 1/72 F-4F Phantom is a really good kit. Revell makes some pretty good kits
>>
>>5892760
They sure do.
They also make bad kits
They also re-box bad kits from other companies
They also re-release very old kits without improving the molds

That is why you always should check reviews before buying revell because having "revell 2016" on its box means nothing. I could be a "Italeri 1985" kit inside.
>>
>>5892436
In my experience pretty much all revell kits are shit
>>
>>5892833
Ditto. Italeri kits are even worse.
>>
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>>5892098
The cast turret texture? Is what amusing hobby decided it would look like.
Fun fact about the Löwe is that the last talks about the project before getting axed in favor of the maus were a redesign of a turret, but was cancelled before said meeting to redesign it. It's just a massive piece of cast metal that I'm not sure how the Germans in their situation could produce it.
>>5892355
It's painted (pic related) following the references from King tigers. Particularly those involved in the battle of the bulge.
>>5892023
I search it and couldn't find anything. Funny thing I found the "431" of the 14th pz div in my ref book and the Africa corps one with the exact camo scheme as the dragon kit illustration. Also found a pzIV with the tactical number "421" but it was a ausf d from the 3rd pz. Div. and used during the France campaign, which means nothing as it only means "4th company, 2nd section, tank no. 1" and the division is the differentiating factor
>>
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>>5893022
Then I found pic related, an ausf f2 of the 1st pz div, II battalion deployed in Russia in the summer of '42. Which you could use as an inspiration with the decals included. I'm not sure about the green strippes, but early operations in Russia made use of several improvised patterns applied on the field. Anyway I don't see why you shouldn't trust dragon as most of the proposed schemes can be found in other publications. Also take into account that those are made by people that has extensive knowledge and references so don't be surprised if their ref for that one comes from a private collection. The bundeswher or something like that related to some German institution had a Great War pic archives but nowadays I can't acces it as easily as years ago. Don't know why because it was even in wiki common.
Anyway I think it's a cool scheme to do
>>
>>5893032
>see why you shouldn't trust dragon as most of the proposed schemes can be found in other publications.

It's mostly just that it'd be neat to have a pic or two of the thing, and to perhaps see if anything whatsoever is known about it beyond the description, I'm not having any particular doubts regarding the vehicle's existence.
>>
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>>5893022
Finished the rings. This was supposed to be the base for anothe camouflage layer but I kinda like it as it is so I don't know if I should carry on with the plan or just stop here and do an autumn scene instead.
I'm not sure what to do as the next project will be a king tiger of the 505 with a winter scheme and don't want to get repetitive, but on the other hand it will be my first winter vehicle so maybe some practice would be good.
>>5893060
In that case take into consideration that if was left as an "unidentified unit" it's because the available references, wherever they are, are poor or partial so wouldnt give you much more than what you already have. Take other f2 in Russia as a general reference as it seems that didn't have nothing special, probably better if they served in the south army group as a wild guess on where it was deployed based on that camo scheme
>>
>>5893119
Camo scheme looks good but the plastic looks like shit dude. Its all pebbly
>>
>>5893248
It's supposed to look like that. As its a cast texture
>>
>>5893248
I don't know what I'm talking about: The Post
>>
>>5893283
Oh, he knows. He posts because he knows.
>>
File: PANIC.jpg (5KB, 160x232px) Image search: [Google]
PANIC.jpg
5KB, 160x232px
>tfw the instructions to a model you bought are in japanese
Wish me luck /toy/
>>
>>5893398
The images shoukd be self explanetory
>>
First time model owner here, is there a specific type/brand of paint you should use to paint models?
Or will any paint do fine?
>>
>>5893398
The manual to the M4A1 I'm building seems to have the most important bits in English, but there's certainly a number of notes and such all over the place that aren't. Hopefully nothign all too important. Hopefully.
>>
>>5893445
What exactly do you want to paint?

In general there are two kinds of paint usually used for painting: enamel color and acrylic color.
Acrylics can be thinned with water, enamel need special thinners and cleaners.
If you are a total newb, acrylics are what i would recommend, simply because you can use tap water to clean your brush and thin your paint.

There are several brands available, you best check your local store or online supplier to see whats cheapest for you.
>>
>>5893445
There's a large number of different brands and types of paint suitable for use on models. But just anything won't produce a good result. The most commonly available "model paints" around my neck of the woods are Tamiya and Vallejo. Gunze's Mr Color (Aqueous and not) seems big in some places. Sometimes you can find good hues in paints for wargames miniatures (Vallejo Game, Games Workshop, P3), those paints are suitable too.

As for types, you'll probably want to rely mostly on acrylic paint, since that's the easiest to work with (no funny fumes, brushes can be washed clean with water, usually dilutes well with water). Add things like enamels and even oils when specific techniques and effects demand it, though I think some are happy enough with enamels for general use.

Other paints might not go on properly, may have coarse pigments, or will in extreme cases contain solvents that happily dissolve your model as well.

But long story short, a store that deals in scale models and accessories will probably carry suitable paint as well. Over time you may develop a preference for this or that band, or even for this colour form this brand, and that colour form that brand, but don't worry too much about it as you start.
>>
>>5893356
>>5893261
>>5893248
I actually have no idea what I'm talking about. Why is it like that?
>>
>>5894362
m80, you can read right? Why don't you check what they said?
>>5893022
>The cast turret texture? Is what amusing hobby decided it would look like.
Fun fact about the Löwe is that the last talks about the project before getting axed in favor of the maus were a redesign of a turret, but was cancelled before said meeting to redesign it. It's just a massive piece of cast metal that I'm not sure how the Germans in their situation could produce it.
>>5893261
>It's supposed to look like that. As its a cast texture

CAST TEXTURE
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casting_(metalworking)

>Why they look different frum em straigh surfaces ones?

From "Technology of Tanks" by Ogorkiewicz:

During the 1930s the use of cast armour also began to spread to hulls and in
particular to the hulls of French light tanks, such as the R-35 and H-35, which
were the first to be made out of large castings. In 1941 castings began to be used on
a large scale for the production of hulls of the US M4 medium tanks and they were
subsequently incorporated in the hulls of other tanks, such as the US M26 and
M46 medium tanks, the Soviet IS and British Chieftain, particularly in the form of
cast glacis. By the 1950s complete hulls began to be cast in one piece for the US
M48 tanks and hulls were similarly cast for the Swiss Pz.61 and Pz.68 tanks as
well as the US M60 and M103 tanks.
>>
>>5894412
con't

The chemical composition of cast armour has been much the same as that of
rolled armour plates but its quality is inherently more variable and the thickness of
castings can not be controlled as accurately as that of rolled plates, which requires
them to be somewhat thicker to allow for it. Castings are also at a disadvantage in
relation to plates because they are generally of complex shape and varying thickness
and can not. therefore, be given equally uniform heat treatment, which has an
adverse effect on their ballistic properties. In consequence, cast armour needs to
be about 5 per cent thicker than RHA for a given level of ballistic protection.

On the other hand, casting lends itself much more readily than fabrication from
rolled plates to the production of the complex shapes of turrets and hull fronts. It
also facilitates an efficient distribution of armour, as well as allowing a reduction in
the number of welded joints and in the preparation that goes with them. The
ultimate demonstration of this is provided by the turrets and the hulls which have
been cast in one piece. However, the size of the castings which they represent is apt
to tax industrial resources
>>
>>5894416
The turret is made by casting and the hull from rolled steel
>>
>>5893445
Depends if you'll be hand painting, spray canning, or airbrushing.

I've bought paint from many different manufacturers and still buy from many based on the colors and whether I'll be hand painting or airbrushing.
>>
New thread:
>>5894621
>>5894621
>>5894621
Thread posts: 359
Thread images: 87


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