Scale Model General Thread

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>>5851600
Very nice BTR and dubs

Will bump with my M10 with a respectful request for critique. OP, if this is your model I believe you saw mine in the previous thread.

>>5851631
can we see more pics? looks pretty good so far

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>>5851743
Here was before I decided to use the snow pigment.

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and after.

>>5851753
>>5851754
i like what you've done, snow pigment is solid.

>>5851600
BTR's looking great; I was the guy who commented on the rippling in the paint but you really can't see it now. Have you done anything to the clear plastic of the windscreens?

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As promised, the weld seam part of the book.
Basically, use epoxy putty and a ground down needle or use plastic strips and a knife.

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>>5852149

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>>5852152

>>5851631
Said it in the other thread but it lloks much better

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>>5851600
:3
Althought that >greentext color. Also I think that the Indianapolis should been the OP image.
Still waiting it to dry and do the final touches (a bit of unifying dusting and oil/diesel stains). Later when all is finished ill do some pics to the best of my shitty ability as I’ve found a big enough white paper to make a background.
>>5851631
Thanks, I didn’t do the op but is my btr. The snow pigment (?) really live it up, but what you want to do is snow or winter camouflage? Because if you want to add snow you will need different materials to achieve the effects like powder snow (I see a bit of it on the sandbags?) and the dirt accumulated on the tracks. I can help you with that if you want. As for how it’s right now I would put a bit on the fenders and lower frontal hull (from what I can see from the pics) and do some winter grime washes.
>>5852110
Most afvs have a textured surface, and the primer and mate paint tend to accentuated even more so it’s kinda futile to try to have a perfect surface, but the oils, varnishes and weathering smooth quite a bit the surface . Although I must admit that I didn’t wait between paint layers and ended putting too much. The windscreens have dusting and (a rather poor attempt) to do a windscreen wiper effect. Pic related, but unless you get to its level the windscreen is not easily seen
>>5851287
>>5851302
Thanks! I have a ton of the weathering magazines so if you need some tip about some effect just ask

>>5852169
Do you have the "Heavy Metal" Weathering Magazine by any chance?
If yes, could you post the Index?

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>>5852177
yep

anyone know where to buy good quality swastika decals? for some reason the model-kit didn't include the tail swastika decals

>>5852182
Now that I’m looking through it there are some small articles not listed in the index. One about a bust of a mediaeval knight, another for afterburners, one of lacquer vs acrylics metallic and another one about metal (rusty) plates. About two or three pages long. Personally this issue is one the most weakest of the ones I’ve read as for the “final” models, but really instructive and helpful if you need to achieve those finishes

>>5852169
>The windscreens have dusting and (a rather poor attempt) to do a windscreen wiper effect
Exactly what I was wondering. Certainly looks the part.

>>5852182
....moar

>>5852186
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-1-32-1-48-WWII-Luftwaffe-Iron-hook-Cross-Decal-/222115968140?hash=item33b724b48c:g:oDoAAOSw3ydVuBdN
For example, or look here
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=german+wwii+luftwaffe+decals&LH_PrefLoc=2&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=wwii+luftwaffe+decals&_sacat=0
Dont know about the quality itself. Another alternative is to ask for aftermarket ones at your local hobby shop and they will order them for you.
Also i dont know why some makers make them cutted in half, kinda stupid
>>5852192
What article? Or what you want to do?

>>5852182
Fran Drescher!

>>5852187
>Personally this issue is one the most weakest of the ones
Fuck me, thats drunk level grammar and its only midday

>>5852182
thanks now I can jack off.

now that kick ass torrents is gone, where to get the mags?

theres a new special on painting 1:72 scale that looks interesting.

>>5852187
I'd like to see the chapter about the rusty metal plates, sounds interesting.
Does the lacquer/acrylic chapter include application tips or is it a raw comparison?

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>>5852220
I highly recommend buying them, but I must say that some of the old ones that I didn’t feel like buying (the dust issue, but the technique I used on the btr is from the newer ones) I found and downloaded it from vk. The 1:72 special is more like a book I think, but usually in every issue they have a 1:72 or war gaming scale article if you only need some weathering theme
>>5852234
The waffentrager is from the "1945" issue.
The lacquer vs acrylics is more of a comparison, he uses two fouga magister and paints one with amig metallic acrylics and the other with gunze metal lacquers, and does some paneling. Then he varnishes the planes with the same glossy varnish but leaves a wing without it, and finally does some panel wash and compares the four possible outcomes. Not very interesting and without a clear conclusion outside of “acrylics are more handy and friendly to use” and leave the surface uncoated if you want a weathered plane. They look really similar, although the acrylics have a more noticeable grain. If it was shorter (it’s the longest of the small articles) I would post it but that’s pretty much it

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>>5852272

>>5852273
>>5852272
Thanks for posting. As for metal paint, I swear by True Metal for smaller jobs, as it doesn't require an airbrush, is easy to use and can be polished to a nice metal sheen. The only downside is the rather poor adhesion, you NEED a (unpolished) primed surface.

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>>5852307
Forgot pic.

>>5852307
That's the wax/paste like one?

>>5852324
Yeah. Thin it a bit and it works well.

>>5852194
well, for example Revell is a german company, and Germans (because of muh hologuilt) are not allowed to draw, produce or posess anything that has a swastika. only items of "historical importance and educational value" are allowed to have swastikas on/in it, for example documentaries or museum pieces. that's why most WW2 games don't feature swastikas, like HOI4

>>5852354
a lot of mainstream kits not just revell these days don't have swastikas anymore, just diamonds, broken ones or none at all.

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Benis

>>5852363
If you get one with a broken swastica I'd just fill it in.

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>>5852375
Fug :DDD

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>>5852354
>>5852363
Meh, I don't know about revell as I never done an axis plane of them but years ago this bullshit didn't happen. Also why they apply this to scale models? It's historic and just being a faggot about it wont make what's done disappear. What happened, good or bad, happened. Just be done with it and carry on. Also this panther would get me b& in Germany even if it's a scale model?
>>5852375
This is why Australians can't get left to their own devices. It's the shitposting equivalent in ww2

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My humble T-34 (1/48 by Hobby Boss).

Be harsh guys.

>>5852592
>Be harsh

The weathering is too stark against the base paint. It's as if somebody took a bunch of dirt and oil and applied it with a huge brush, which is the equivalent of what you did, instead of it naturally accumulating over time.

The green also looks a little off and the track sagging doesnt make sense.

Next time, dial back the weathering from mommy's make up bag to something closer to a landscape painting. Subtle changes make for a much more convincing look just like how the sky subtly changes from the horizon to directly above you. If you compared it, it would look unnaturally stark, but because it forms a gradient, it looks normal.

>>5852607
Thanks. I really struggled at doing "pinpoint wash". I tried my finest brush, and it still went all over the place instead of flowing into the recesses like in the tutorial videos i watched.. I'm not sure how i could do this better. (It was a 0 brush and i used black vallejo wash if thats important)

>The green also looks a little off and the track sagging doesnt make sense.

Green is from a can for wargamers, called "russian green". Probably not 100% 4bo though.

Not sure whats wrong with the track sagging, i tried to follow the instructions as good as i could.

>dial back the weathering from mommy's make up bag to something closer to a landscape painting.

All stuff i used is from vallejo and/or AK interactive. (mud paste, pigments and shit). But i get your point.
While working on it it seemed just right, but after i saw the finished tank (especially while taking pics) i realized that i might have overdone it.

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NOT ENUFFF DAKKA

>>5852564
it won't get you arrested, but you are not allowed to post pictures of the tank with visible swastika

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strafgesetzbuch_section_86a

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>>5852615
> Probably not 100% 4bo though.
Topkek

>>5852592
the brown mud ruins it, unfortunately, also the blacks are too heavy, other than that nicely done

>>5852630

In here its a non-issue and you can post whatever you want.

Even on facebook with your real name it wouldn't be a crime. Fb might take the pic down if someone reports it though.

86a related to scale kits becomes only a thing during exhibitions if you were to display your kit to a broad public or for manufacturers with their box arts.
Thats the theory. In RL some dude might just walk up to you and be like "you might want to cover that for the time being" and thats it.

I saw >>5852592 and didn’t want to step in rudely, so I’ll wait a bit to post the final pics. Meanwhile
>be harsh guys.
Mostly what >>5852607 said
First you need to buy some smaller brushes like 3/0, 5/0 and a 10/0. Next you either do a wash or streaking grime or both but not some strange undefined in-between as there is difference on them but not on you build atm, the washes and grime strikes (not sure if the washes got run down or was on purpose) need to be softened with thinner. Especially the washes as some look like an oil spill.
>that green
Buy another one or play with filters and oils. There are a lot of paint kits or documentation about which greens where used and where so it should be easy to get a new one.
And for the mud you need to be more soft (strange thing to say coming from me I guess), work with layers and give more richness to them, mud doesn’t look that monotone, put some pigments or paint and get some variation.
Overall needs some refinement, but nothing that couldn’t be redone or perfected in the next build. Keep it up man
>>5852629
TINY, is that for some western diorama?
>>5852630
>>5852649
Well, it’s not as bad as I though. Scale model conventions must be strange with little tarps hiding them

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>>5852681
I mounted a pretty bad photo booth, with two types of light (cold and warm, but that’s what I have in the room atm) which makes some of the photos look weird but hope you get an idea of the final result. The btr looks really dark in all the photos, much more than irl, like the final dusting is too subtle to catch it with my camera or I suck at making photos. Maybe I should get something better than my phone to do final pics. Anyway hope you enjoy it and inspires you to make some plamo.
Pic related is the one this is based on
(It’s going to take a while as there are 11 pics, but I will skip some)
Theme of the build with some btr-80 rollin:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hs3k1gcMDzE&list=LLziA2dh_E_64lB-ZSNaGYaA&index=2
And the documentary/film from where the clip is from:
Afghan: The Soviet Experience (really interesting and not too long)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4HxydMf3bcM

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Letting the MircoSol do its thing. Only three transfers rubbed off while I was applying the rest... At least none of the big ones.

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>>5852712

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>>5852714

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>>5852715

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>>5852718

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>>5852719

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>>5852723

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>>5852724
Done. Now I have to finish to clean up the workspace and start with the löwe.
>>5852713
I though it was a rafale in the other trhead, do these have the "golden" cabin (like the rafale and the f22)? If so how do you that effect?

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>>5852730
No, just plain old clear canopies.

>>5852730
I'm a newfag, how did you achieve all those collections of black dirt or whatnot on the model?

>>5852714
Nice to see the final results

>>5852714
>>5852715
>>5852718
>>5852719
>>5852723
>>5852724
>>5852730
Nice job, you can be real proud of yourself.

Okay, just learning here, started with Revell´s Shinano from the Miniships line, the 1:1200 ones.
About to start painting some parts, any advice?

The stuff i see some anons doing in this thread looks really complex so im not sure if i am in the right thread, if im not i ask you to point me to the right place please.

>>5853064
Thin your paints, use good paints, etc etc. You'll do better by asking specific questions and trial and error

>>5853078
I bought art store acrylics because there are no specialized stores where i live and thus no Tamiya paints etc.., im already used to work with this brand of acrylics but im still afraid it wont look well, im reading in the blog linked at the OP but it only says so much and all the brands talked about there don´t exist where i live. the paint is of good quality, that much im sure.
Question is, are there any big differences i should take into account between ´´regular´´ art acrylic and the specialized ones?
Using a set of brushes i had from before including liners for details
Tha

>>5853089
>tha
My browser went retarded, wanted to say Thank you.

>>5852557
HAHAHAHA
oh shit

>>5853089
Honestly craft acrylics gernally look like garbage. They're just a little too gelatinous I think.

If thats all you can get make it work for you.

>>5852978
>>5853004
Thanks!
>>5852821
>how did you achieve all those collections of black dirt or whatnot on the model?
I hope you’re referring to the grime and not the scratches because then I feel like I have failed
It’s a rather long process to explain, and the basics can be watched in some youtube videos like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGPH1BM4e_Q
Which only uses acrylics but it’s a good start for a general grasp, it’s a huge wall of text but you better read it all
I’ll try to list all I’ve used and for what in order.
Kit: trumpeter btr-80 (easy and nice, but I recommend it as a third or fourth model)
Primer: Vallejo grey (74601) and black (base and preshading)
Paint job base green: airbrushed ammo mig 083 (Russian post ww2 green xb518). Which is a 10/10 color, congratulations to mig and his research team as in on point but don’t even think of using with a brush as only really works with an airbrush (don’t know why, I guess it’s because of the formulation and additives needed to achieve the satin finish)
Disruptive stripes: Tamiya xf19 sky grey thinned
First varnish coat: vallejo glossy
Decals: star decals 35882 - soviet in Afghanistan wheeled vehicles
Decal softener: micro sol (a bit useless in this build, but whatever)
Second varnish coat: Vallejo satin (applied in two fine layers)
First filter: A.MIG-1506 BROWN FOR DARK GREEN, is a filter so don’t let if accumulate on nooks and crannies apply uniformly to all the surfaces. Serves to unify the paintjob
Oils: the oil technique consists on doing small spots with artist oils and then fading (not blurry into a mass) them softly with white spirits to enrich the surface. I used a lot but some are orange, blue, cream and burnt umbers. Depending on what are you working on search the colors that fit the most, they last forever almost and are extremely versatile
Grey stripes chipping: base green with a brush and sponge (only in the grey stripes)

>>5853211
Soft chipping: base green color with some mate white, applied with a sponge in the most used areas disregarding if striped or not
Deep chipping: Vallejo 70822 german dark brown or something like that. This is an “universal” chipping color as long the surface is primed steel, so most afvs.
Aluminum chipping: humbrol 11, or any bright aluminum/steel paint. Apply only in the areas that you are sure that are made with aluminum, in this case the searchlights of the commander and the mg. I have a feeling that the splash protector is made of it too but I wasn’t sure, so check your sources if available.
Second filter: this is optional as would be further filters, AMIG1510 for three tone german camouflage
Pin washes: A.MIG-1005 DARK BROWN WASH FOR GREEN VEHICLES, applied to details and solder lines, leave it to dry a bit and stump with white spirits
Rusty grime: AK-013 Rust Streaks, apply as a very thick filter/wash in areas of interest (turret link or places like that) and stumped with thinner as needed.
Here starts the “scenario” weathering (the above steps are a bit generic compared with what comes here)
“New dust technique” created by mig (I think) for the underside (and originally for all the vehicle but I encountered some problems so it was washed up)
In the last threat is SBS explained so I’ll list the stuff in use order
Chipping fluid: AMIG2011 HEAVY chipping fluid, there’s a less chipping one but I used this one
Dust base: AK-022 Africa Dust Effects.
Pigment dusting: AMIG3003 North Africa dust. There’s also Middle East dust and airfield dust which could be better as they are less greenish yellow pink (yes, that’s my description of it)
Pigment retouch: with the same enamel of the base to rework the areas you need
Rundown: the enamel thinned with 40% and used to stike downwards and touch up the pigments

>>5853215
Final dusting: apply pigments as you see fit but being careful. Then seal with a soft airbrushing of Tamiya buff and washable dust if you see it fit
Wheels
Primer: Vallejo black primer
Paint: AMIG0033 tires and rubber
Dust: either enamel or thinned acrylics (AMIG0105 washable dust RAL 8000)
Pigments: same as hull
And that’s pretty much it
>>5853089
Buy online, theres a ton of hobby shops online, or use ebay/amazon

>>5853211
>tfw I work almost entirely with enamels so I can't use any of that info

>>5853216
I forgot the oil and fuel stains with A.MIG-1408 FRESH ENGINE OIL. Use sparingly as less is better
>>5853217
Well, most of the weathering listed is done with enamels, or do you paint the base colors with enamels?

>>5853229
My base colors and drybrushes are enamels and I have a handful of acryllic washes for, well, the washes. They (the washes) don't show up very well though.

>>5853231
Then I would recommend using extensively varnish (acrylic resin type i.e. Vallejo for example) to protect previous paintjobs before the weathering or waiting like almost two weeks so the paint job is totally dry and bonded but this could be risky and obviously a waste of time. I recommend the varnish route, as for acrylics washes they are okayish but I find them difficult to control (personal opinion) unlike the rework capabilities of enamels. Can’t hurt to try in the next build I guess?

>>5852169
Looks like it would rather be fishing.

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>>5853237
My next build will be an M1A1HA Abrams in NATO colors, so we'll see when I start work on it. My local hobby store has varnishes so I'll grab some of those next time I buzz by.

>>5852714
>where
>>5852715
>>5852718
>>5852719
>>5852723
>>5852724
I'm the anon who talked about the scratching looking down to the plastic
In that lighting the scratching actually looks like its down to metal. Nice job on the weathering

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>>5852375
And the Israeli version

I discovered the B-36 Peacemaker, and am in love.

Has anyone built a B-36, or familiar with kits therefore?

>>5852592
Looks like papercraft.

>>5853402
>dat circumcision
oh jew

>>5852615
>I really struggled at doing "pinpoint wash". I tried my finest brush, and it still went all over the place instead of flowing into the recesses

Did you gloss coat it first? If you can imagine how surface tension works, if the surface has lots of bumps and crests, the liquid will want to flow into those areas naturally instead of where you want it to go.

>Green is from a can for wargamers, called "russian green". Probably not 100% 4bo though.

Normally I'm not super fussed about the exact colour of my base coats because I can modulate it later with filters and washes, but since I assume you dont have an airbrush that might be impossible for you to try right now.

>Not sure whats wrong with the track sagging, i tried to follow the instructions as good as i could.

I looked at the kit and it's link and length track style, so there is nothing you could have done about it unless you got some aftermarket tracks. It's not something that normies will notice so dont worry about it.

>All stuff i used is from vallejo and/or AK interactive. (mud paste, pigments and shit). But i get your point.
>While working on it it seemed just right, but after i saw the finished tank (especially while taking pics) i realized that i might have overdone it.

Their stuff is good to use, but you need to layer it on lightly. The point is: you know better now and your next model will look better with the skills you learned you need to learn on this one.

>>5853410
Revell Germany makes a 1:72 B-36. I was interested once, but I realised it would take up an entire square meter so I forgot about it. Honestly, it's a suicide project.

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What kind of paint do I use to get actual chrome-look? Burnished Aluminum or whatever?

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What do you guys think about the newest depiction of the HMS Warspite?

>>5852714
Amazing work....

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>>5852714
Can't find a single detail that doesn't look great. Don't know if I have any confidence to build armor myself anymore though.

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Slowly progressing. It could be worse, but not by much tho.

>>5853697
Pretty cute, I'm working on Trumpeter's 1/700 Warspite.

>>5853763
ewwww do you even know how to paint

>>5852681
>First you need to buy some smaller brushes like 3/0, 5/0 and a 10/0.

Absolutely.

>but not some strange undefined in-between as there is difference on them but not on you build atm

I did both actually.

>need to be softened with thinner
really? I thin my paints but i always thought washes and these weathering liquids are good to use right from their pot. Thanks for pointing that out. This might be (besides the brush) the reason the wash did not flow as i wanted it to do.

>Buy another one or play with filters and oils.

I actually have a modulation set for russian vehicles from mig. But since i don't have an airbrush i figured spraying the tank with the can would give me a better result. (i handpainted tanks before and i wanted to try the difference)

>put some pigments
At this point i only have pigments in one color, but i will try some brown paint here and there. (I'll order a couple more color variations too)

But anyway, thanks for explaining things to me. Much appreciated.

>>5852681
>Scale model conventions must be strange with little tarps hiding them

Most modellers who show their stuff to the public regularly leave the swastikas out to avoid annoying cover-ups all the time, but in general, nobody will cause you trouble if you have a little tank with a little swastika in your shelf inside your room.

Fun story: Like 15 years ago i knew a guy from my school who was kinda a neo-nazi (more like an edgelord, but whatever). He had a huge swastika flag in his room, not visible from anywhere outside through a window. He also burned downloaded games on cds and sold them in school. (Fast internet and cd burners were kinda rare in these times, at least at my area). Police busted him one day and they looked through his room, collecting cds, computer and all that stuff and they also took his flag with them.. only to return it to him a couple of days later because it was unrelated to his "crime".

>>5853887
poor sap could've made local news, just think of the headlines

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>>5853887
I find the thought of someone being offended by a little cross on a plastic model pretty pathetic. It's not like Hitler is going to rise from the grave if I want my models to be historically accurate.

>>5853891
People get offended about everything these days.
Luckily most people would just shrug it off like an irrelevancy that it is, but you know there are some types who will go upset about these things.

[spoiler]Besides, who can guarantee that hitler isn't using millions of swastika marked 1/35 tanks and planes to conquer the world after he comes back from the grave?[/spoiler]

>>5853891
No one that matters gives a fuck. Which is why the law is like it is, the thought of model building simply didn't cross their minds as they made it.

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>Besides, who can guarantee that hitler isn't using millions of swastika marked 1/35 tanks and planes to conquer the world after he comes back from the grave?
I think this has been done before in a similar manner

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And that's about as good as it'll get for this one. A bit of a cheap warmup kit after decades of wargames miniatures. Trying to get used to the rather different approach to painting here, weathering etc is for future kits.

A pair of nasty glue blotches on the front canopy, oh well. Maybe use ca glue for such? Though this was supposedly glass-suitable superglue, you'd think that'd be non fogging.

>>5853639
saw some amazing jobs with Xtreme Metal chrome
http://ak-interactive.com/v2/?product=xtreme-metal-chrome
never used it though

>>5853995
funny thing: just bought a nice Dornier Do.335 A-1/A-12 model, but the decal sheet does not include a swastika, nor a combination of shapes to create one. I simply can't get how manufacturers get away with this. they create products for autistic people who are willing to spend hundreds of dollars to get a 1ft diameter aircraft to look as historically accurate as possible, but don't represent the aircraft this way in their product, not even if the (only completed) aircraft actually has one in every picture there is of it.

>>5853763
Ew

>>5854059
look, the last time Germans had fun, sixty million people died.

>>5853998
Don't use CA glue for clear parts. They'll fog up

>>5854202
Oh, sorry, meant wood/white glue. That seems like it might be worth a shot. Or reasonably easy to unfuck if it fucks up. CA being what I did use, thinking the special for glass formulation would save me.

I'm starting the löwe and its huge, the hull near a challenger 2 dwarfs it and I think it will end taller than the Ferdinand and the panther and those are tall as fuck for afvs

>>5853398
>>5853398
>>5853700
Thank you! Lights can make a thing horribly ugly or better than they are, now I respect a bit more photographers
>>5853751
Thanks, all you see can be easily done by everyone you just need to keep building and checking guides and magazines as nowadays there is a lot of info sharing and examples
>>5853763
Well that needs a lot of improvement... like being more careful while deciding what to glue or not to ease the painting process and get some new paints, they are relatively cheap but twill give a boost in veracity
>>5853697
If I was good at painting figures and there was a kit for her I would buy it along Bismarck and Musashi at full throttle. I didn’t know they started to add English ships
>>5853882
>need to be softened with thinner
When I wrote that I had in mind two things but ended putting only one. What I meant is that the washes need to be stumped, also when you work at smaller scales than 1:35 you need to keep in mind the scaling of the effects and the product that gives such effect so it doesn’t end looking like a black smear instead of dark grayish green for example, you should thin your washes with 10% (max 30%) thinner, as for mud effects (the ones that are textured and similar) that’s more tricky as they are formulated with some complex additives and components that I’m not sure how would i thin them down. As for filters and oils there is no need to thin them more outside of personal preferences or what you want to achieve. As for the pigments you can also buy pastels and grind them (as commented by sturmtiger anon) as a quick alternative
>>5853998
Looks really nice, a panel line wash would give it more definition tho. To glue the clear parts you can also try Micro Krystal Klear, it doesn’t fog the plastic and is stronger than wood glue

>>5854281
Just placed an order. Got 2 tiny brushes (3/0 and 5/0) as well as a vallejo set with 4 different pigment colors. (called Mud and Sand). Once i have it i will go over the mud effects to give them a bit more variety.

>>5854281
>you can also try Micro Krystal Klear, it doesn’t fog the plastic and is stronger than wood glue

I'll keep that in mind if I ever need to glue a canopy where the joint needs some actual strength. And some degree of panel washing or so is on the menu for the next build.

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>>5852681
>TINY, is that for some western diorama?
No. It'll be goblin-sharpshooter from MTG

Got a box of 'flat' testors paints and a single brush for my first model.

I assume one paintbrush is going to be a pain, but is there a lot else I should know? Thin paint a lot? mix it on a palette for in-between colors? Layers? Do I have to file/sand paint/primer off before applying plastic cement?

>>5854402
>I assume one paintbrush is going to be a pain

Yeah, one size does not fit all.

As for thinning, depend son what consistency stuff is in the can. A bit is usually good. I do both mixing and thinning on "palettes", specifically the clear plastic shells form old blister packs.

When it comes to layers, always paint thin ones. Then you paint as many as you need for coverage. Thicker layers look like ass, multiple layers don't.

Plastic cement doesn't like painted surfaces, or rather, it dissolves paint into a messy goo. No filing or sanding or anything necessary to make it stick, as it doesn't really bond to the plastic, it outright dissolves the plastic to chemically weld shit together.

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Wash on the top finished

>>5854402
>testors.

Its enamel paint right?

>Do I have to file/sand paint/primer off before applying plastic cement?

Did you prime the sprues before assembling?

>>5854457
Testors Enamel Paint set.
I did prime the pieces before assembling, not the sprues. I probably did it badly, and I didn't do the sides that would be 'inside' or not being painted.
I haven't assembled yet; first segment of my model is the cockpit, and it seems clearly best to paint that before putting it together.

>>5854422
>it dissolves paint into a messy goo.
Is that... bad? I mean, I think I understand how plastic cement works (fusing), I'm just wondering if for a model I want it to be 'clean' plastic rather than painted plastic for looks.


My only prior experience is old warhams models, and that was years ago.

>>5854469
Yes, paint the cockpit before assembling it.

For Enamel paint you need special thinner and brush cleaner too. Keep that in mind, otherwise you will fuck up your brush.

>>5854486
Came with paint thinner in the set. Don't know about brush cleaner. How do I use them?

>>5854469
>Is that... bad? I mean, I think I understand how plastic cement works (fusing), I'm just wondering if for a model I want it to be 'clean' plastic rather than painted plastic for looks.

Plastic cement works bets when both surfaces are clean, with no paint or anything on them. But it'll usually manage even with some paint or so there.

When gluing together things that have already been painted, be very careful where you put the glue, a drop that gets onto a visible bit can wreak havoc with your paintjob.

>>5854513
the thinner should actually be some kind of alcohol solution. i suppose you could was your brush in it as well (obviously not inside the bottle)

>>5854513
>Don't know about brush cleaner. How do I use them?

What's meant here isn't one of those special brush cleaners sued to keep your brush good in the long run, but merely what you wash off the paint with after each colour. Since lacquers aren't water soluble, you can't use water for that, son instead you'll use lacquer thinner or somethign like that. Mineral spirits or denatured alcohol might work, maybe.

So keep a bit of it in a pot (you probably want at least a paint pot equivalent there), and swosh the brush around in there, gently rubbing against the side and so until the remaining paint is gone from the bristles.

Now as for the special brush soap and preserver stuff, if you bother with that (cheap brushes may be rather too much of consumables to bother, high end sable brushes probably aren't) then at the end of each session do something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g4fB_pfnkjI

Is there any reason to use black primer over grey?
Up until now I've been using grey exclusively. I just ran out and while looking to buy some more grey I started considering trying some black, maybe see if it has some benefits.

>>5854553
I like black more. It creates shading and tonal variations just by being a base coat

>>5854536
Alright. I fucked around and ruined the cheap brush that came with the kit, but I learned some things.
When y'all talk about multiple thin coats, do you mean separated by like, five minutes, or separated by like a day?

Tested on excess piece and found a clean container lid to use as a palette. Got a little place set up to work with.

Discovered that (as I was told, but didn't quite comprehend) rinsing enamel paints in a jar of water does nothing.
Dipping paintbrush (despite washing doing nothing) back in jar of thinner doesn't taint the thinner.
Enamel paints don't seem to mix very well.
Thin coats are thin (but seem to dry decently quickly?) and the colors I got seem mostly alright.

Will see how the pieces I painted dry, but they seemed alright. For the cost of a single dead brush (and it was a kind of shoddy-looking one, hairs with different lengths or alignments) I'm pleased with a little bit of progress and a five minute taste of that nice 'painting' feeling.

>>5854603
>Alright. I fucked around and ruined the cheap brush that came with the kit, but I learned some things.

Those brushes tend to be only slightly better than a well-chewed toothpick, so no real loss.

>When y'all talk about multiple thin coats, do you mean separated by like, five minutes, or separated by like a day?

Varies with the paint (and thinning, layer thickness, temperature, humidity...). Lacquers dry kind slowly I think, but I haven't used them in somethign like a quarter of a century, so hell knows how long it could take.

For many acrylics you're closer to five minutes than a day at least. If the previous coat stays put then it's fine. If it turns out to be, or is dissolved into a goopy mess that drags behind the brush as you add more paint, then you were out too soon. Wait a bit longer if you're doing a wash, since they're better at re-activating old paint, or maybe it's just that the fuckups are more obvious. Anything like sanding or other mechanical poking around also needs the paint to cure more fully before you start.

If you find yourself having problems waiting, then there are special paint curing accelerator units (aka sample dryer units in lab speak) you can buy. For some reason the manufacturers insist on labelling them "hairdryers".

>Dipping paintbrush (despite washing doing nothing) back in jar of thinner doesn't taint the thinner.

A big enough jaw may swallow a few brushes worth of paint before you notice anything, but the pigments don't magically cease to exist, and sooner or later you'll notice how the crystal clear thinner is turning into a dirty grey.

>>5854603
Enamels dry in two days on average (and almost two weeks to totally seal but that shouldn’t be a problem, despite being dry to touch in half an hour or so. Depending on how fast you wanna work I recommend at least an hour but better 24h (all of this is based on how paints behave where I live) or whatever the manufacturer recommends.
Personally I work mostly with acrylics and lacquers (similar to enamels but) which dry faster than enamels, but I always wait an hour between coats unless I’m really rushing it and always leave it to dry a day between major changes or layers (start varnishing, chipping, etc).
To clean up, use acetone (nail polisher remover). But DON'T USE IT AS A THINNER only to clean up your brushes and airbrush. It’s cheap and nothing resists it, the main inconvenient is that will eat and destroy your paints and model if you fuck up somehow and use it there. After cleaning the brush in acetone dip it in water and you are good to continue.
Or alternatively buy in the hardware store white spirits as a cleaner, but remember that not all have the same purity and could damage the model if you use them as thinners so try it first on a piece of scrap, as if you find a good one you will save a ton of money in thinners (amig/ak white spirits are 5.50€/100ml which could get expensive quickly but you get the safety that those wont damage anything)

>>5854576
white or grey allows you to shade even more by preshading the crevices and corners from what I've found.

>>5854457
>Did you prime the sprues before assembling?
who does that? do you also apply putty on primed surface?

>>5854402
>Do I have to file/sand paint/primer off before applying plastic cement?
yes, but priming should be done after all theses steps.

>>5855138
Nah bro. Black primer preshades the entire thing.

Look up black basing

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>>5855871
The whole point of preshading is to add a gradient. If you completely basecoat the model one color you're not preshading at all.

I was bored and checked if reddit had something similar to this thread, and oh they have.
I present you some of their finest works:
https://imgur.com/a/XsC7d#ooQ14kx

What is the consensus on AMMO by Mig Jimenez?

particularly their acrylics

>>5855914
Among the best

>>5855879
Yea. When you add your base coat you build it up in light coats and create a gradient. You already do this generally its just not visible with a white/grey undercoat

>>5855901
Reddit actually has a decent model board

>>5855914
I really like them; I have the berlin brigade set, '44-45 late german colors miniset, dark tracks, periscope green, tires and rubber, xb518 russian postwar green and washable dust. They are really good and airbrush able straight from the bottle, which have a ball stirrer and the vallejo style dropper that makes them more convenient to use than Tamiya (my personal favorite for general use). But between the ones I have they look and behave differently, for example the german colors are similar to Vallejo and can be used with a brush or airbrush without incidents, but the xb518 can’t be used (unless you want to make minor touch ups or details) with a brush for example. I highly recommend you to trying them (my btr for example was painted with xb518)
>>5855901
Lol, overall not really bad but that canon takes away any positive point to say about the modeler…
>>5855946
Which one? (I only use reddit for some reference images boards and porn, but dont really get how it works overall as is a mess of ui)

>>5855960
Its called /r/modelmakers

Just like every other model board, theres really talented people and newbies too

>>5855960
Shit i just realized its not only not fitting but also upside down.

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>ran out of xf-61 and none of the local hobby shops have it in stock
Rip in rip best korea parade T-62 (at least till the winter holidays).

>>5855970
How do people over there react to shitty models?

I have been in dozens of forums/facebook groups in the past and i can't stand the "that looks great"-comments under each shitty tank any longer.

If something looks shit, it should be called out so the person can improve.

>>5855976
No, it's a hugbox.

Sorry dude

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I dont know how to use Vallejo acrylic Matt Varnish, and im really close to going back to Testors dullcote because it just fucking works.

Handbrushing or airbrushing, diluted or not its still shiny as hell.

Pic related. Dont mind the roughness of the surface, i dont care.

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>Thinned my paints with a 2:1 paint water ratio
>First coat looks like watercolor painting
Will subsequent thin coats come out full and flat or have I fucked myself?

>>5855973
Order online, I think amazon carries tamiya at good price, but better buy on some online hobby shop (if you don’t know, tell me your country or geographical area and I will list some good).
>>5855976
I also don’t like those kinds of comments in forums, if something is bad say it and then the dude can improve for the next one. But those comments take more time and probably think they end looking like assholes and/or the modeler end taking it personally. This is something that I like here, people come more directly. I rather have some people shitting on mistakes that I didn’t see o didn’t know how to fix and get better rather than “looks great :^)” or nothing. For example now I’m looking at the btr and I’m happy with the result but also seeing a lot of fuck ups or things I should done differently. Not saying that people should criticize just for the sake of it and if you like the model of course that you say something positive, but more experienced modelers can put their insight in how to improve with their tips.
Well this ended longer and bloggy that what I planned
>>5856002
Thats really wierd, vallejo matt is always really matt for me. Did you let it dry enough? What ref says in the bottle?
>>5856006
It takes some layers, but neither should look like watercolors i think. Also only vallejo/amig/ak can be thinned with water

no airbrush peasants WW@

>>5856010
I'm using Tamiya paint. I'll try some isopropyl alcohol and perhaps the next coat will have more of a 3:1 or 4:1 ratio

>>5856010
>Order online
Thing is, I am on a really tight time table and I am leaving in a week and not going back home till the winter holidays.

>>5856010
>Did you let it dry enough?
First layer I let dry for about a day or so, since i thought maybe it dries into matte finish, but it really didnt, next layers didnt really help either. But i think i´ll think about this later and for now just use Testors.

>>5856023
Amazon delivers over night at some places, just saying.

>>5856017
http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/thinning-paints-606
Straight form their web, tamiya as being weird kind of acrylics (more similar to lacquers and cellulose paint) can only be thinned with their (rather expensive) thinner or 90something purity isopropyl alcohol
>>5856026
That’s weird, kinda curious to know why this happens. You are using the 70.520 matt varnish acrylic resin right?

>>5856032
>You are using the 70.520 matt varnish acrylic resin right?
The same. I think its just that im doing something completely wrong, since testors seems to be the only one im able to get matte finish done with, has always been the case.

>>5855976
People will be constructive. Its not bad.

Usually Im the only person being a dick to people on there

>>5856002
Post more of whatever that ship is. Wrecks are relevant to my interests

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Miscellaneous chipping, streaking, and pastel work done

The contrast is a little high in my opinion

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>>5856408
Really looks great, I'm pretty jelly right now.

>>5856413
Thx m8. Any suggestions? Not really sure what else to do

>>5856440
>>5856408
Not him but I think a very mild grey filter would work wonders. Maybe add like a few drops of grey to your final flat coat?

>>5852730
>opдeнa "Кpacнoe Знaмя"
>"Кpacнoe Знaмя"
fucking illiterate chinks, I swear

>>5853763

learn how to paint properly before doing camo.

>>5857126
What does that mean?

>>5857265
Red Banner. it should be opдeнa кpacнoгo знaмEHИ

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Tracks are as good as finished, save for some pigment work, I guess.
I'm wondering if I should use a darker metal color for the worn/polished areas.

>>5857523
Yeah, but what's the translation?

>>5857546
I like it

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and he's about 98% done. now i only need to put shiny coat over metal bits, glue him together and then move my fat lazy ass to hobby store, buy some tufts and finish his base.
thoughts?

>>5857748
I really like his face.

The fur might need a bit more highlighting, but it might be the pic that is misleading here.

What scale is he? 1:35? Or bigger?

Very well done in my opinion.

>>5857754
>I really like his face.
thanks
>The fur might need a bit more highlighting, but it might be the pic that is misleading here.
shitty phone photo
>What scale is he? 1:35? Or bigger?
1:32/54mm

>>5857756
Have you done other minis in that scale before?

>>5857757
no

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>>5852154
Excuse me, I don't speak German, is that just white glue?

>>5852592
thin the chipping paints more / use lighter paint, looks good for a 1/45

>>5857765
It's a plastic strip, softened with plastic cement.

>>5853763
Looks eh, use a more drab green

>>5857765
styrene

>>5857546
>crew named after the Cavalier of the Order of the Red Banner AMONAMAREV

For one, no one names the _crew_ after someone, it's either the crew commanded by the man or maybe the BTR itself would be named after him

For two. AMONAMAREV is a rare to impossible Russian last name and it sounds weird as fuck, more likely it's a typo and the actual last name is PONAMAREV and A is the first letter of his first name. I can't be arsed to check against the list of people who got that particular Order, the list is available online though.

For three, the phrase itself is written wrong grammatically.

tl;dr that decal is shit

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>>5857882
>>5857523
>>5857126
I have no idea of Russian and much less of cyrillic(?) alphabet but here's the original with a close up of the inscription and looks more or less like the decal as far I can tell. I don’t know the source but looks like a crop from a scanned book in case this vehicle is more documented. Kinda sad if it’s wrong but I can’t do much about it, maybe contact the decal maker and tell them but I don’t think they will change it if it’s wrong.
>>5857546
Metal tracks look so shiny in ref pics so like that is good, heck you could make them even shinier if they were rarely used.
>>5857748
Nice, maybe the leather and fur needs more shadows and highlights

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>>5858053
pic related as an example of the tracks

>>5858055
Thats a terrible example though, because it would mean the helmets of some of these guys were shiny as fuck too.

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>>5858061
Here another one, I must say that the shininess of it depends of what crossed and the age of the tracks

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>>5858066
That's an ausf D in Kursk so they were rather "new", in this other its more used and for example only the late type grips shine through. I have some of tigers if i can find them

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>>5858066
>>5858061
>>5858055
>>5858053
Looking at my reference, it seems that the tracks were indeed quite shiny. I'll leave them like they are.

>>5858061
no, go think about the direction of light and try again.

Anyone ever done a model of a plane over a seascape? Interested in seascapes but not ships.

Maybe a seaplane?

>>5858535
Seascapes are hard to make look decent if you have little experience with terrain building.

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Is the Infinity worth buying?

>>5857748
Who's that, Vercingetorix?

>>5858833
Its a very solid brush and well suited for beginners and advanced users alike.

>>5858833
No

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>>5858535
You want to make a plane "flying" and the base to be the sea or something like pic related? (The weathering magazine 10 - water, model by Rick Lawler) It’s rather complex (even more without experience in dioramas in general) but just pour the resin in thin layers and check some how-to and you could do it. One idea that I had but probably never do is a pacific island diorama with a Japanese recon boat plane checking with the garrison, like really small with some sea and the beach or a dock and the pilot and a soldier with some mail or something like that. I can post more about this article if you are really interested. If you want to make it flying you main problem is how you hide the support
>>5858833
I'm seriously thinking of buying the harder and steenbeck infinity 2 in 1 as is really good for what I’ve read and it’s relatively cheap here

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I'm thinking of making a very early (as in could have been built in '42) US Sherman after the current kit. Currently looking at Dragon's M4A1 DV (6404). Anyone have a better suggestion? (And what the flying fuck will Cyber Hobby charge for shipping to Europe, as cheap as their up front price is?)

And has anyone seen a review of Hasegawa's 1/700 Mikasa yet? A full build might be asking a bit much, but you'd think osmeone would have an in-box one up by now.

>>5859404
>relatively cheap here
Where?

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>>5859420
care to get the Tasca/Asuka one? general consensus is it's the best around, not too expensive either depending on circumstance.

>>5859420
>Hasegawa's 1/700 Mikasa
I might get one but it is very new so there arent alot of people who bought one.
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10043407
This can help if you're just interested in the construction.

>>5859544
I have a Tasca/Asuka Firefly, fantastic kit. I'll be finishing it up soon so look out for that.

>>5859552
>http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10043407
My bad, that's the 1/350th version.

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10384161
Here you go

>>5858833
absolutely love mine.

>>5859282
fucking badger shills

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>>5859573
>good airbrushes for a reasonable price
>muh shills
I wonder who could be behind this post

>>5859595
both are good and you can get both for a reasonable good price too.

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>>5852592

I got my pigments today and used a couple of different tones on my T-34 from a few days ago.

Did the pics without flash this time, hopefully it doesn't look to dark that way.

>>5859603
The green is substantially better in this light than in the original photo. The mud is still a little overwhelming in some places, but far far better and less stark.

Just for future reference, mud doesnt clump up like that at that scale. It looks like a toy tank dipped in mud rather than a tank dipped in mud scaled down.

>>5859667
I'll keep that in mind and reduce the amount of texture-paint on my next tank.

>>5859534
http://www.barna-art.com/aerografos-harder-steenbeck/aerografo-infinity-dos-en-uno-boquillas-0-150-4-mm-depositos-2-y-5-ml-conexion-rapida-

>>5859603
Shit I forgot to add your response
For the next one stump the washes as the next major improvement (we talked about this in previous posts but is a shame that only that step ruins the wash appearance)
As for the mud you should work:
>dried mud:
Almost without texture and lighter than the recent
>new mud:
Less than dried (here I’m talking about general conditions as never always there is dried mud or fresh one, etc; but to give richer appearance) and much darker, add some really small twigs and grass for more textures. Add gloss or wet effects to make it wet.
Now how to apply it is the next part, better work without the wheels and/or tracks in the hull as long as you can so you can apply it well to the lower hull without “clean” areas due to inaccessibility.
As for the tracks more than clumps, this of course can appear but are more common in much heavier mud, with enamels/washes and pigments you can weather them better. Here a little SBS:
http://www.migjimenez.com/img/cms/PDF/StepByStep-WET-EARTH-TRACKS.pdf
(You might or might not use their products but it’ll give you a better idea)
Also as >>5859667 said, the hull mud looks like someone smeared a really dirty tarp on the tank, rather than splashes and grime. Keep it up, what do you plan to do next?

>>5859695
>221 euros
>cheap

>>5859768
>>5859695
https://www.airbrush4you.de/en/airbrush/airbrush/infinity-airbrush/

The solo ones are cheaper here

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Greetings,

Here's my first commission work "Roadblock at Kharkov"

Kits used: Tamiya 1:35 BT-7, Tamiya 1:35 SU-76M, Dragon 1:35 Panzermeyer, LSSAH Div. (Mariupol 1941)

All the terrain are epoxy resin products of mine :)

comments appreciated

Pic 1/5

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Pic 2/5:

BT-7 Tank crew inspecting the treads

>>5859858
Looks great. How much did you make off it?

>>5859766
Thanks for the link, that looks really helpful.
I'll try to improve my mud next time. I'm not so sure what i'll do next, i have both, a M4 (intended to be used as L&L vehicle to accompany the T-34) and a german Marder Tank Destroyer, both in 1:48 in my shelf.

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>>5859865

Thanks! I'm from the Philippines, I sold the whole thing for 10,000 Php, or 200 US dollars.

Pic 3/5: SU-76M and crew

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Pic 4/5

Isolated Wermacht soldier waits to ambush the SPG crew once he gets a chance..

>>5859544
>>5859552
I went and looked up some reviews, that does seem like a good one. Guess I'll go with that one then.

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Pic 5/5

The scale is just a teeny bit off for my 1:35 scale ruins, but they can also be used as war gaming terrain. Here are some Space Marines and some Imperial Guards...

>>5852719
this looks amazing; i would kill for that kind of skill

>>5859883
I really like the color scheme on those marines

>>5855973
is that a stand for a soldering iron in the background? is that useful for scale modeling?

>>5859875
Nice!

>>5859936
Sometimes. For wiring and occasional battle damage

>>5859858
It looks really cool, although a general dust and pigments in ruble colors would unify the scene more and give it a more battlefield feel. I really like when dioramas tell a little story or set a scene for one.
>>5859873
Maybe get a SU-something or a KV2 if you want soviet vehicles, or maybe a matilda to add some variety
>>5859931
Thanks, basic building and painting skills are gained through making some models and keep practicing. For the weathering "The weathering magazine" has been my main reference and an enormous source of techniques

>>5859976
I already have a KV-2, and while there is a SU-122 (as well as a Mathilda) in that scale from Tamiya, i would have to order these from Asia via Ebay if i want them for a reasonable cheap price so i'm stuck with what i have right now anyway because delivery takes 2 weeks or more.

I wish there was a SU-76 in that scale. I love open top vehicles and that one in particular.

>>5859595
>>5859573
>>5858833
I've used the Infinity CR+, Badger Patriot and Badger RK-1, I like the Infinity the most because of how easy it is to clean, the removable cups, and the comfortable trigger.

It's a little pricier than most airbrushes, but it sprays beautifully, especially for finer details like luftwaffe mottling.

For my next kit:
Russian T-90 or Modern Polish T-72?

Got the final coat on the falcon done. Have to get a radar dish 3d printed but ill post pics before then

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>>5860314
do the Twardy desu

>>5853697
No opinion, I have a hate for all things british except for their language. However, I hate their dialect of it.

>>5853697
do the japs still complain about the american navy being too racist and murderous to want to depict as cute anime girls?

is this a good airbrush(in general or for the money)? what needle does it come with by default?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Badger-Air-Brush-Airbrush-Acc-Xtreme-Patriot-Body-MINT-/361682012110?hash=item5435ed87ce:g:L50AAOSwHoFXq4b2

>>5860633
yes

>>5859935
Haha thanks, they're my Homebrew chapter **ducks for cover from OMGMARYSUESELFINSERT! mob**

>>5859940
Thank you kindly!

>>5859976
Thank you kindly for your suggestion in dust and pigments with the rubble. That's noted, I'll try to do that in my next diorama commission :)

>>5854431
Nice

>>5860558
bit harsh m8

>>5860314
T-90 is cooler

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Anyone have experience in sail ship modelling? Who are some of the manufacturers you would recommend getting? I have a particular interest in HMS Bounty and have been wanting tobuild a model of it myself. Should I start off with something simple then work up to it?

>>5861144
Ive never done wood shios before, but as any hobby you start small and work your way up. Unless you have the money, time and will to repeat that ship until it comes out good. Artesania Latina has some simple wood kits that might be a good start point

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Resuming the work on the lowe. There are some bad things that might interest possible buyers:
Theres flash in some of the details or just plain mold disaligment like in the rear piece of the sprocket (pic related)
Hard to see but some pieces like most of the suspension arms have flow issues as seen on the pic
Some wheels lack details, two in my case (pic related)
Bend lower hull, not from impact from how it looks but from bad cooling or something injection related. (Not seen but i can post pics of how i started to fix)
The plastic seems a bit soft
Instructions have unamarked pieces
This is what I found 4 steps in, which worries me a bit.
Also I must say that most of these are in areas that are not seen o rarely on the finished build and can be repaired without a lot of troubles atm.
But from a 64€ kit those are a lot of mistakes and not really something acceptable, if this was a dragon or a tamiya new kit for example there would be an uproar. Maybe I got a bad one or just being a relatievely new company (2012 or so I think the kit is from) there are some things that need refinement. Or I just had really high expectations and its price was more related to the rarity of the tank than enginnering.
Anyway until is finished cant say but check the sprues if you can before buying.
(My iphone broke so meanwhile I use a tablet to make potato pics sry)

>>5861289
I suspect you've mentioned it before, but since I've been paying attention like someone struck with dementia and ADHD at the same time, what company?

>>5861323
Amusing Hobby

Can you guys point me in the direction of flight bases for planes, to build them "mid air"?
The only thing i found so far seems to be intended for Gundam robots.

>>5861289
Not even I can see shit on that pic now that I look at it on the pc.
Also the polycaps for the cannon (marked "3") and the sprocket wheel (marked "1") are reversed, as the cap "1" is huge and fits perfectly (and only) on the cannon mount and the "3" is the only one that fits the sprocket wheel; which also suffers from either lack of plastic or just plain bad engineering as it "dances" inside and you can move it on its Y axis (moves toward and outward the hull easily if you get my shitty explanation). I don’t like to whine about the kits but this one is a bit of a mess, at least its lower hull. And that was something I didn’t expect from this kit.
>>5861370
A quick search gave me this two made options:
https://militarywarplanes.com/product-category/custom-stands/
http://www.acrylicdisplaycases.co.uk/MDC034.html
If you want to do it yourself get some PMMA (resists the elements pretty well, hard to scratch and is the most transparent of the acrylics) or PC (or whatever clear plastic rod you can get) and some wood. Cut the rod to whatever height you need, drill a hole for the rod on the wood base, paint/oil the base, glue things together with epoxy and done. Or if you don’t want to glue the model you will need to attach something to the rod that allows you to screw/unscrew the plane.
Another DIY option and probably easier and cheaper is buying a finished plane (dragon for example make some) of the same rough dimensions of your model and steal its base

>>5861133
No

Guide me lads, I'm looking for scale models which are made of metal instead of plastic.
I used to have when I was a kid a lamborghini but it's been long lost and I can't remeber who made it or what the sub category was even called.
I don't want to buy 1/24 plastic car models mainly because I don't have painting equipment.
I remember it was pre assembled to some degree, anyone know what I'm talking about?

>>5861470
>Die
>Cast

Did you even use google?

>>5861399
Well fuck me, another insight about the caps, the number two is for the sprocket, one is for the cannon and 3 is for the idler wheel. And I already glued the sprocket... can’t fucking trust these instructions
>>5861470
bburago car kits?

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>>5861478
The kits came like this and the decals made the rest of the work. I've build a lot of these years ago an they were really fun

>>5861478
>>5861485
Yes or something similar thanks lad!

>>5861399
>Another DIY option and probably easier and cheaper is buying a finished plane (dragon for example make some) of the same rough dimensions of your model and steal its base


Seeing those prices this might be the best solution.

>>5861370
Theres these:

Flightpose.com

>>5861590
Thanks. That looks good and the price is alright as well

So on what are you working on?
Or what you plan to buy?

>>5861928
Payday on friday. Im thinking about the ww1 tamiya mk iv

Never done a tank before

>>5862269
Tanks are fun. For best results in painting don't put the wheels and treads on until you're done painting the side areas of the tank.

>>5859603
You made a solid improvement!

What's a good late 1943 - early 1944 Russian tank kit that was mass produced, I'm thinking Su 85 T34-85 or maybe a JS 1 or 2

>>5862516
You named the big ones already. Su-76 is also an option or a Su-122

>>5862516
T-70 was produced until late 1943

>>5861928
Working on a Löwe (that's giving me more troubles that I thought) and also have a takom chieftain mk10 up next (but the Berlin brigade camo is a pita and I keep finding excuses to postpone it). Planning to buy the takom king tiger with full interior as a slow project for autumn/winter.

Also if sturmtiger anon is here, could you post the drivers hatch? Maybe I imagined but it had an open hatch on the front that I would like to see because the löwe has the option to make one open for the driver (panther ausf a style) and need some inspiration to do it or not.

>>5862516
Most are already listed, so what you asked was only the model or also the kit? I recommend Miniart su-122 as is a kit I plan to buy "soon" and looks really good. Or a t-34 76 of either the '43 model or the late ones (I'm not an expert inn soviet armor) as I like those cast turrets and how they look overall rather than the t-34 85, for the kit maker I’m not sure so maybe dragon has something for sure.

>>5860596
The Iowa has been moe-fied for quite some time now.

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>>5861478
I built their VK3002DB. It wasn't that bad.

>>5863494
Yeah that’s the thing, their other kits look fantastic but when I search about the löwe the drama starts.
Like some kits came with metal barrel and others no (without it seems the rule now), some had rectified instructions, others molding problems (mine look like nothing compared to what others posted) and shit like that. This doesn’t make sense because the things that aren’t misshapen are really good. Also their web amusing hobby.jp has been down for a long time, but they still make kits so it’s a weird situation, because calling or sending a letter to Japan isn’t a really practical option to inform them about their issues.
Here’s a wip album that I’m trying to do, but since I don’t have a phone I rely on what I can borrow to make pics so I can illustrate some of the issues
https://imgur.com/a/cSnoT
Not pictured are the misaligned mold ejectors that left huge solid plastic towers on the pin marks, the poor fitting of the upper and lower hull, the idle wheel piece on the motor plate is nonexistent so it’s like they cut the support and bar of it and the instructions in general.
It’s not a bad kit overall, but like it is it’s not near worth 64€ by far. Kinda reminds me of the first trumpeter kits, but not even they fucked so badly.
Lovely vk3002, you posted it in red primer only a while ago right? I would add a filter and some pigments to make light dust

>>5863558
Mmmm, from what you describe it's very different from my experience with the maker, where I found no problems with the mould or the instructions. Probably because the VK is a newer kit.

>I would add a filter and some pigments to make light dust
This is an older photo, it's had some weathering touch ups done since but as you can notice it's already got pigments and streaking, I just went very light with it because I'm not sure how this vehicle might have gotten worn since it never existed.

>>5863558
Uh you do know pictures can be posted here, right?

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Enough whining about the kit, time to work. The turret is huge and with the cannon is massive, its longer than a btr
>>5863695
Can you post some final pic? As for the weathering, the good thing about what ifs is the freedom they give. So you could imagine some scenario and go wild or just choose a battle and proceed accordingly
>>5863698
Yeah but those pics where made with a borrowed phone and the easiest way to get them out was posting them. Unless you want more QUALITY pics like this

Apparently there are no Tamiya mk ivs in the US that arent price gouged to fuck. Looks like I either wait 3 weeks to have it shipped from japan or spend 100 bucks on a 50 dollar kit. What the fuck?

>>5864109
Better order away and wait then. But it's weird that there're none with normal prices anywhere, maybe ask in you nearest hobby shop about it. Other option is buying some of the several versions by Takom which are really good, but perahps less noob friendly than tamiya if thats a problem for you

>>5864109
The difference is not just price: the US release has an added infantry set and I believe some photoetch not in the regular version.

>>5863494
Looks great! but a little too clean, somehow it doesn't convince me that it's a tank on a field but either a toy tank or a tank in a museum :)

but great crisp paintjob nonetheless

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Guys, have any of you bought "modelcollect"? they're Chinese made kits and they're the only ones in my country that have 1:72 Russian tanks.

If so, what are your takes on them?

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Anyone have experience with a full interior in a scale model?

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>>5863784
>Can you post some final pic?
I dont have a good camera anymore one is coming at the end of the month so I'll take one then.
>So you could imagine some scenario and go wild or just choose a battle and proceed accordingly
It still wouldn't be 'realistic'. You could argue any which way about it too which is why I want to avoid that if possible.

>>5864165
>a little too clean, somehow it doesn't convince me that it's a tank on a field but either a toy tank or a tank in a museum
Really? I thought the subtle differences like the rain streaking, the light dusting of mud and the used running gear would help me avoid that look. Pic is what it looked like unweathered for comparison.

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>>5864353
yeah, a lot of tedious painting. Although it is very impressive

Are there any kitbashers on here? I got some cheap kits in a liquidation recently that I'll probably have some fun with.

1/35 maus tank
1/144 Leopold rail gun
And a few miscellaneous other bits and pieces I have on hand. The barrel from the rail gun suits the maus nicely, but I'm trying to think of some ideas.to break up the box form/sides of the maus

>>5864199
Quality wise they are hit and miss. The T-64 series are good, the T-72s are allrightish, they have really bad wheels and both Revell and Zvezda make better T-90.
The T-80 comes with a lot of PE and a metal barrel, but the decal sheet is a major letdown. Will post pics later.

>>5864544
Nice!

>>5864364
I agree with the first guy. Its just too clean.

>>5864109
Order outside if you dont care about PE (if its included being tamiya its probably a rebranded set that you can also get elsewhere and proably cheaper as PE is the most common aftermarket) or >>5864124 said consider takom. I think the japanese version came with a motor and workable tracks but im not sure
>>5864364
The thing is that you created a catch 22 situation with self impossed conditions on a paper afv (i dont know if yours made to the prototype stage as my lowe didnt even get a wooden mock up, only design notes and simple technical drawings) that never made it to production and much less to the battlefield so obviously doesnt have a theater of operations, but yet you wanted to weather it and give it a camo and unit numbers (nothing wrong with that) but you say that imagining a theater of operations to get some inspiration for the weathering is not historically accurate (on some project panzer). You said that you didnt want to argue about this but the situation triggered my 'tism a bit. I respect your decisions and procedures in your model but it seemed a weird thought process to me
>>5864502
From what model is that motor, a sherman? Also did you use some speciall weathering for the motor/interior? Im going to make the full interior kt of takom soon and would like to order all at the same time if theres some product thats needed
>>5864544
Never done kitbashing but your project looks like fun. Ill rework the front of the turret as i never liked that round shape give it a more trumpeter e100 turret style or maybe more modern shape like a merkava? Also add some small AA on topif you can make it low profile and armored. And night vision systems if you have them. And some recoil system for the huge canon on the mantlet. It could be a very interesting build that I really look forward to

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During the last days i built my M4. Its going to be a soviet L&L vehicle so don't worry about the green. (I used the same spray can as with my T-34 btw)
Upper and lower hull are not connected yet and i want to put a russian commander into the turret so it looks more "russian" if that makes sense.

>>5864846
With the red stars and the huge tactical numbers (and/or weird looking russian tactical simbols) i think it will give it away the russian feel. Or enhance it more with a slogan. A quite fast builder btw

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>>5864913
I have decals from other russian vehicles and might actually use one of these slogans.

I'm surprised myself how fast i was with this kit. I built in in like 2 seasons. Its 1/48 Tamiya though, so its kinda simplified and the fit was extremely good and i had no problems at all.

Pic related is the decal sheet from my T-34. Does someone know what the slogans actually say? Google translate can't even translate the "KOBCK"

>>5864933
Tamiya kits are a really zen and comfy experience, shame about some old molds and price (1:48 i believe is not affected much by this). There were some russian anons posting about my btr decals so maybe they will still be here. I tried to translate "kobck" and gave me this: quokka
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quokka
Which i dont really know if it makes sense or are just machine translation shenanigans

>>5864815
>>5864150
Didnt know about the PE. Idk what to do now.

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>>5864662
T-72
It came with DS style tracks, the wheels were atrocious and it didn't come with a piece of rice paper to make use of the decals

>>5864961
Tamiya started the 1/48 line in the early 2000s, so even the oldest kits (that M4 is one of the first releases) are fairly new compared to some of their really old 1/35 kits.

I know that the russian "B" = "V" in western alphabet and the "C" = "S", so the word is like "Kovsk", but again, google gives me nothing useable for this. If any russians lurk here, pls help.

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>>5864967
It was also my first attempt at shading
T-64 is about the same, but the wheels are worlds apart. Also the second set of torsion bar arms were cast in the wrong angle.

>>5864964
This is the japanese version:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/308949-tamiya-30057-wwi-british-tank-mk-iv-male
And this one is the export version:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/466619-tamiya-30057-export-wwi-british-tank-mk-iv-male
I wasn’t sure but seem that both come with motor and without PE, the only difference is the box and the WWI brit soldier squad included in the export one, I guess to justify the price to devil westerners.
Takom offers a lot more of the mark IV versions (male, female, hermaphrodite and tadpole)
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/309773-takom-2008-mark-iv
They include PE (which you could get with more detail options from aftermarket makers if that’s a selling point for you) and metal barrels it seems, but it looks a bit less comfy than Tamiya but also allows you make interiors. They retail for almost the same in Europe atm (Tamiya is 10€ more expensive on average). Personally in my short experience with takom they are really good, excellent detail (more than Tamiya) and offer interesting color profiles by based mig. If you don’t have much time or just want to enjoy the build without complications Tamiya is a better option (and you can “play” with it). Also getting either the Japanese or the export version on ebay is possible if you want the soldiers or not
>>5864967
>>5864982
Cool little ones, shame about the track problems

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>>5864815
>catch 22 situation with self impossed conditions

Yes I suppose that makes sense, but from what I've heard and read, the germans kept their tanks in pretty good conditions throughout the course of the war (up until the very end) since it was a mandatory condition set by the wehrmacht for the maintenance crews. This is, of course, different if the vehicle was coming out of combat as opposed to going into a battle.

>You said that you didnt want to argue about this but the situation triggered my 'tism a bit.

Haha that's not what I meant when I said you could argue any which way about it. To clarify, I meant that if you created some imaginary weathering scheme (like putting some scratches on a specific handle to signify use, where if the vehicle was actually made, the handle would've been ignored because it was inconvenient or something) then you could argue that it's not realistic just as easily as you could say that weathering it would be more realistic.

It seems a little autistic now that I've written it down actually, but that's just how it went through my head.

>From what model is that motor, a sherman?
It's from a T-34. Only one version of the sherman had an inline engine, and that was 4 inline engines mounted orbitally around a centre shaft.

>Also did you use some speciall weathering for the motor/interior?
No, I just used Revell 91 steel for the base and Tamiya X-11 for highlighting as well as oil washes of raw and burnt umber and handbrushed Revell 9 Anthracite Grey and XF-85 Rubber black for the detailing. Revell Anthracite grey is actually one of my best kept sekrits.

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>mfw i dropped a part and it disappeared in my carpet

>>5865185
I just dropped a Tie fighter hull.

Landed on a cannon barrel.

So now that barrel is somewhere in the room.

I was going to vacuum tomorrow.

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>>5865158
>and tadpole

And what?
>google

That thing needs a "We break for air" bumper sticker.

>>5865199
Vacuum anyway, but put a thin sock over the end of the hose.

>>5865181
Nice, sturmtiger anon also mentioned revell anthracite as the color of the lacquer primer of German barrels so I was looking to get it (or amig alternative, whatever is available now), nice to know it’s good for interiors, nice paintjob on those components.
>Only one version of the Sherman had an inline engine, and that was 4 inline engines mounted orbitally around a centre shaft.
I mean, the Sherman is quite tall, but four engines? What was that version called?
>>5865185
Happens to me all the fucking time especially with handles, this tank has only eight handles and of seven of them has fallen to the ground while sanding. Thank god the people that lived here before put wooden floors as I can’t imagine the pain to search them in a fuzzy surface
>>5865201
I kinda like it more than the “normal” ones but being only a failed project don’t add much interest unless you go “what if”.

>>5865231
It was the M4A4, and actually, it was 5 car engines which stretched out the rear of the hull.

Honestly it was a pretty shitty engine all in all.

>>5864662
Hey dude, thanks for the feedback. I bought a T-90 kit actually, and the lower hull was indeed metal.... oh well, 1:72 tanks are hard to come by here in the Philippines. Mostly hobby stores only sell Dragon or Trumpeter, and those brands have limited selections.

Your T-72 looks great by the way!

>>5856408
great work 10/10

>>5865185
Get a plastic mat under your workstation. one of those mats with ridges that go on car floors are perfect and often help collect any pieces that may bounce.

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>>5863178
The Sturmtiger does not have a Panther A-Style hatch, sadly. Just some periscopes.
>>5864353
Full interiors are tedious and difficult, depanding on the kit they are also rather costly to make (Aftermarket parts etc.)
If the kit comes with a full interior, there'll be less problems however.
>>5865231
The Anthracite is really freaking dark without some oil/shading work. Sadly I do not know of a Mig alternative at the moment. Maybe you could use a shade of Panzer Gray.

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I really need a better camera

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>>5865825
2/3

A lightbox would help too

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>>5865827
And a nice zoom lens for this timy shit

>>5865582
Why does Sturm tiger have shell impact, it was mobile artillery

>>5866024
With a barrel like that I'd expect it to have been an assault gun.

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>>5866024
>mortar
>mobile artillery

>>5866024
Why do you think they made it an armored monster?

That thing was intended to drive towards bunkers and other fortified positions, soak up incoming fire and then blast the place into oblivion. Basically a Brumbär on sterioids.

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I think im finished with this one. Need to rig up a booth for taking better pics though. Learned so much from this project ranging from basic scratchbuilding to using oil and making water from resin. Could have done better job with waves, but its there and i know better next time.

>>5865209
Thanks for the tip, though once sunlight returned it was a "mere" fifteen minutes or so on my belly to find it again.

>>5866670
Love this so mich

>>5866670
Can you post some WIP pics from scratchbuilding the actual wreckage?

>>5865830
I don't like the new movies, but that model is pretty fuckin' sweet famicus.

>>5865185
I drop PE parts all the time on carpet and still find them pretty easily. Get a bright LED flashlight or desk lamp.

>>5865181
You're supposed to remove the mold seam along the parts.

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>>5866698
Only got a few

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>>5866737
Original kit is the 1:700 Trumpeter USS Jeremiah O Brien, kit number 05755

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>>5866739

>>5866718
Where?

>>5866744
Are you retarded?

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>>5866744

>>5866762
mmm I didnt notice the flash on, what I assume to be, the generator axle.

The seam on the exhaust system is there because I havent finished with those parts yet. They dont have washes or any weathering for that matter. It was the next step when I shelved the project.

>>5866751
:^)

>>5866670
I'm sure the recipient will enjoy it. It's absolutely magnificent

Back from local hobby shop, I got 1:76 Panther and 1/35 Su-85 to practice on low priced models and German assault troops for a diorama I'm doing.

>>5866968
Airfix and Tamiya?

Just bought a Revell concordovsky for 16 bucks, pic related.

Any tips on how to make the Russian sister of my planewaifu look dope as hell? I haven't build a kit in years, and it would be great to get this one right.

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>>5867163
Whoops, forgot the pic like a true idiot.

>>5867165
That's actually an ICM kit reboxed by Revell. What tools do you have?

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>>5867175
A really cheap brush and half a dozen of 2 or 3 year old Revell enamel paints. In other words, I pretty much have nothing proper to start with.

So yeah, if it isn't too much to ask for, perhaps you fellas could also recommend me some proper gear that can be usually found in retail?

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>>5867195
You're fucked, my friend

>>5867195
For starters, i dont know about brushes but Vallejo paints for handpainting and Tamiya for airbrush.
Remember! A good surface primer first will make painting easier, you can find some cheap ones in aerosol cans and they work fine.
Some putty, modelling glue, tweezers, sandpaper and sharp modelling knife will take you a long way.

>>5867205
>Tamiya for airbrush
I've always wanted to try airbrush, actually. Might finally give it a go then.

Also, I have some old Revell modelling glue tubes around, is there any issue in using them? Perhaps the glue might have either dried up or lost consistency throughout the years?

>>5867212
>Perhaps the glue might have either dried up or lost consistency throughout the years?

Possible. Open and see. Though if it's the standard tube I'd consider it a last ditch thing. I much prefer the needle-tip "precision" variants. There's also Tamiya's liquid stuff with a brush in the cap, which seems to be what everyone up to and including Satan's aunt's dog is using on youtube, so maybe that's what you really want to be using. I gotta try that some day.

>>5866670
Love it, only complaint is that you can see that the trees are made of cube pieces of foam

>>5867163
if it's 16 bucks, it wont be too much of a loss if you screw it up. Those airline model guys really go all out to try and make the finishes as smooth and nice as possible.

what do use to clean your airbrush between paints? and how.

what do you thin with your vallejo and tamiya acrylics?

>>5868164
Pour out any remaining paint, swab out the paint cup somewhat in the kitchen, then get the denatured booze and alternate blowing it through and blocking the tip to blow it back up the cup.

It probably ain't quite cutting it.

Tamiya I thin with Tamiya's thinner. Vallejo... I think I used windsheild wiper fluid last with ok results. Distilled water is supposedly ok according to a guide I've seen.

>>5858833
I own it's cheaper cousin, an Evolution 2-in-1, which is fantastic, but the Infinity is essentially a step up from that. So it should be good, but it's pricey.

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Finally getting closer to finishing the tracks, >>5865582 thanks for posting it, I think I will leave it open. As for the antracithe I found a set from amig that has the equivalent of the black/grey lacquer, red primer and another color I don't remember for 6 something €. I can't find revell enamel stock now so I'll order that and check it out
>>5865830
Looks really cool with the lights, nice job overall although the blaster hits(?) look off to me, like not reflecting an impact. Not sure how would I do it as laser or whatever hits is something I never seen in irl but maybe a Matt black inside the impact and the curls of armor in a metallic finish?
>>5866024
It's max range was like 6 km and not very accurate, so if it had to hit it had to get close
>>5866670
Looks great, reminds me of the dioramas of a Swedish o Norwegian modeler that makes sweet ass sunken ships dioramas, don't remember his name but check his work for more inspiration and tips for the next if you need about this subject
>>5868164
Water to clean all acrylics
Tamiya thinner (x20a) for their acrylic as water won't work, isopropyl alcohol people say also works
For Vallejo/amig I use Vallejo airbrush thinner because I have some lying around, but also plain water or Vallejo medium (makes paint translucent)