Welcome to the Gunpla/Plamo General

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***GM Group Build***
Rules:
Pick an HG GM, and paint and customize it. For it to count as a GM, it literally just has to have GM in the name of the MS on the box, otherwise, no, it doesn't count. As far as customizing it, I'm going to place a limit on that. The limit is 50% additions to the kit.
To define 50%, look at it like this, you could take a GM Custom and replace the arms (including shoulders), legs, and backpack and I'd call that 50%. I'm not counting handheld bits in that. If you're unsure of something please ask in IRC, the thread, or email.

Due Date: 8/12
Submissions go to [email protected]
Submission format
Please submit photos in jpg via a compressed file (zip, rar, or 7zip), please don't link images to imgur or photobucket or the like. Please also name yourself, even if it's a pseudonym. Also indicate your participation in the contest below.

***Contest***
Instead of doing just a generic group build this time, there's going to be a prize pack. The prize pack will contain a GM Sniper K9, a set of glass paint mixing jars, and a Tamashii stand (sized for HGs or RDs). Shipping is at my expense.

Rules for the contest:
If you wish to enter the contest I'm going to actually need some proof. Please send me pictures of your kit as a work in progress and a final product with a timestamp and your email address. I hate to put his burden on you guys but this is the internet and people suck.

Judging
Regardless of who wins the contest proper, all entries will be made available on a blog post on Saturday, August 13th. Actual judging will take place Saturday as well, with the winner announced that evening. The winner will be contacted via email and be given a two day grace period for responding. PLEASE USE AN ACTIVE EMAIL WHEN SUBMITTING!

>>5831953
Buy designs you like, but keep in mind MGs, IBO 1/100s, RGs, and PGs all have an internal skeleton, which is different from most HGs. The older a kit is, the more likely it is to have engineering problems.

If I were you I'd stick with HGs or SDs for practice, then tackle a MG once you're sure of what you're doing. But that's just me.

>>5831992
yeah there are a bunch of HG that are <$20 on Amazon I think I will end up getting first, before I move onto that MG 1/100 Wing Gundam I've been looking at

$55 at B&N in town, only ~$37 on Amazon!

>>5831998
Keep in mind the seller when you're buying from Amazon. If it's fulfilled by Amazon it should get there relatively quick, especially if you have Prime. If the page says it ships from Japan though it'll likely ship via SAL and arrive a month later, unless you specify expedited and pay out your ass.

>>5832002
Oh yeah, I'm aware of how Amazon works, all the ones I have tabbed open right now are sold by or fulfilled by Amazon and are by Bandai Hobby

Thanks for all yalls help! Probably gonna order one tomorrow, unless I decide to balls out and just paint this one I've already done

>>5832002
Seriously. I did that once and didn't realize it was through a Japanese seller. Literally forgot about it until it arrived.

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Origin Zaku Sniper

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Just started airbrushing, what am I doing wrong?

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If anyone remembers from a previous thread, my dad said he had an airbrush. Turns out it's an old-ass thing. It's single action, but as far as I can tell that's probably going to be better than hand painting at the very least. So now that I have this, what is the most beginner friendly airbrush paint and primer?

Any suggestions or ideas on how to bash together an RG GP01 + HGUC GP03 to make an RG GP03?

in b4 tons of scribing and trying to re-fit armor pieces

>>5832098
That's how you would do it.

>>5832098
tons of scribing and trying to re-fit armor pieces

>>5832098
>Any suggestions on how to scratch build an RG?
>Inb4 having to do any work

I mean REALLY.

>>5832104
I'm like, "apply putty, to the inner frame to make an impression for the mounting pegs, but make sure it matches up just right to the hollowed-out armor pieces"

I was thinking that trial and error with styrene sheets to plug into the peg holes on the frame would not be as secure.

>>5832069
Primer ain't gonna be easy for a beginner and I do not recommend lacquers or enamels to start with.
I dislike almost every acrylic airbrush primer since you have to thinker the ratios for a long time until you find something that works.

If you want ease of clean up/application/mixing I would go with Tamiya Acrylics with their brand thinner. 91% ISo alcohol is mentioned as a thinner but I have run into problems with the paint coming off occasionally. Use their thinner and you'll have no problems.

Vallejo is another but their paint excels at handbrush application and tricky to thin down for airbrush use.

>>5832123
The reason why I asked for primer is because it feels like I'm just tearing through this Tamiya spraycan. The thing feels like it only has maybe 1/4th left after one HG, so an extra 10 bucks per HG is gonna add up.

>>5832037
what are you trying to do?

For priming/basecoating, would a spray gun be overkill? I don't really want to get a second airbrush, and a conversion kit seems like a lot of hassle.

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>>5832137
try some of this duplicolor white primer u can get at the auto store for 5 bucks
its sprays fine and cheap and is similar to the japanese stuff

i wouldnt bother trying to airbrush primer

>>5832123
Why is primer difficult for a beginner?

>>5832137
You're not wrong, cans produce a ton of overspray. Such is life.>>5832156

>>5832157
Why not airbrush primer? Other than the hassle of course.

What solvent does Zinsser primer contain?

>>5832156
Why not just decant the primer and airbrush it?

>>5832172
>>5832180
>Why not airbrush
It takes much longer.

>>5832145
Trying to get solid colors on flat surfaces without any major imperfections. Basic techniques, really.

>>5832172
Because all the acrylics primers are a hassle and the best ones are enamel/lacquers which aren't exactly beginner friendly due to being more hazardous.
Vallejo primer thinned down for airbrush use tends to tip dry the everliving fuck out of airbrushes I use but it is workable. The thinner ratio is something you will have to constantly tweak too.
That said there are random acrylic brands that are good. Up to you to find one that'll work for you.

>>5832210
looks pretty solid to me
were you going for gloss?

>>5832157
>i wouldnt bother trying to airbrush primer
except when you need to fix up shit on a tiny area
except when you need to spray inside tight spaces
except when you want to save money
except when you are preshading

>>5832214
>enamel/lacquers which aren't exactly beginner friendly due to being more hazardous
you are confusing "beginner" and "retard"

>>5832177
lol vinegar

it's a primer for drywall

>>5832219
It's tamiya X-7 red, is it normally this glossy?

>>5832233
Tamiya sells 2 lines. X is gloss, XF is flat and matte.

>>5832237
Oh, that makes sense. Does the gloss look good when a flatcoat is applied, or would I need to get the XF series?

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>>5832233
>this glossy
technical term for what you have is orange peel, actual gloss takes effort

read up on dry/wet coat technique

>>5832111
Then you'd just have a HG GP03 with an RG internal frame which you couldn't see because you styrene and puttied it in.

You didn't think this through at all

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>>5832253
>glossy robot
>glossy thrusters

>>5832255
You can't see an RG internal frame anyway, you mostly just see some joints and a handful of sliding sections.

>>5832098
Sand down the pegs and detail that would get in the way. Then use plaplates to make basically columns that will combine the armor and the frame. Good luck though, it'll be a ton of work either way.

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>>5832261
>not liking showroom robots

>>5832253
Quick google search says the orange peel effect is a bad thing, could it be because it was 95 degrees today, or did it happen because of a screwup on my part?

>>5832280
it's your technique

read more

>>5832280
Most likely the latter. Gloss coats are finicky.

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>>5832019
beautiful

>>5832037
doesn't look like you primed.

>>5832448
I definitely did not. Am I supposed to prime spoons?

>>5832465
always prime. It'll help you get a much more even coat. Paint layers grip onto the primer really well.

How many coats did you do?

>>5832470
Three or four with about 30 seconds between each coat, spraying distance around 4 inches. Will primer reduce the orange-peeling?

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>>5832473
the only way to eradicate orange peel from any paintjob is to sand the final coat

thats why pro car paint shops wet sand the final clear coat to get a mirror shine

orange peel is unavoidable as you can see even on this bandai manual pic

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>>5832482
>orange peel is unavoidable
by the same logic nubs are unavoidable because a lot of promo builds have them

it simply isn't true

>>5832482
>>5832495
so am I supposed to git gud at airbrushing or learn how to wet-sand gloss coats?

>>5832502
Ideally, both.

>>5832495
the fact you eve mention "nubs" makes me realize how amateur you are. sorry my mistake.

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>>5832502
>git gud at airbrushing
this

>learn how to wet-sand gloss coats
optional as it only applies to a small percentage of cases where you have large fairly flat pieces

in fairness, you will not need really glossy coats very often with gunpla, unless you like candy coats

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>>5832518
>ad hominem
doesn't make your earlier statement any less untrue

doesnt flat coating get rid of orange peel?

>>5832533
More like hide it.

There are steps to prevent orange peel.
The paint is drying before it gets a chance to level, that's why it happens.

Try spraying closer, lowering the psi, thinning more, using retarder with the thinner, misting coats very lightly

>>5832265
i don't usually like zeek suits but the kampher and gerbera tetra respond really fucking well to high-gloss paint

>>5832547
What's happening is the paint is drying unevenly, which you can't help unless you use a paint that takes ages to completely dry, which is why enamels are recommended for high gloss. They take the longest to dry.

If you read manufacturer's guides they'll indicate as much. Testors says their enamels take 2-3 days to cure, their acrylics and lacquers will be dry to the touch within minutes but needs 24 hours to cure. By the way, you should wait 24 hours to check the final finish of your paint, even lacquers will continue to cure past the first 30 minutes, even though I see a lot of people here say that it's good to good within minutes.

You can try different techniques to avoid man made problems but that will only go so far.

>>5832575
I think retarder and a good undercoat go a hell of a long way to a 'perfect' gloss finish.

Alclad recommends primer, then a glossy black base (enamel would be best due to levelling properties). This layer needs to be PERFECT. Then spray Alclad then if you want to tint/candy any clear colours then you follow standard decal procedure.

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>>5832575
I was having great success laying down almost perfectly smooth paint last time I used Testor's Enamel, but I kept getting a little mist/orange peel at the edges of the spray. Should I have gone with a wider needle, or thinner?

1/00 Legend came in today. Now have the MG Strike Freedom, Infinite Justice, Strike Rouge, Sword Impulse, 1/100 Akatsuki Full Set and Dragon Momoko Destiny.

What other 1/100 Seed Destiny suits am I missing other than Lunamaria's Zaku? Or just go with the Sword Impulse for her?

Anyone use scribing templates?

Any advice on how to align them and keep them steady?

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Well this guy just showed up

>>5832690
o shit waddup

mine is in the mail somewhere

>>5832692
You know whats sad. I got 2 more coming in, and I still have a stupid huge backlog. And the fact that this guy has to be a P-Bandai exclusive. shit sucks

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>that feel when the geara doga is never going to be around $50 anymore.

>that feel when geara dogas are going for 110$ now a days.

why

Will Purple Power strip Alclad?

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Thinking of starting one of these kits today after doing some tidying around the house

I plan to do a full paint job and some small modifications and then building a small diorama piece to enter it in this train wreck UK gunshit convention

Will it even be worth my time?

I bought them with this intention, but with the price of supplies, £40 to enter the competition, £60 for travel, and god knows how much for a hotel, I'm starting to think this isn't going to be worth my time

>>5832710
Just wait for the restock.

>>5832805
You have to pay to enter? What the hell is this shit?

>>5832809
Yeah
£20, for tickets, £20, for competition entry
There used to also be an additional £20 to have you entry displayed, but that charge has been removed

It's going to be a small con, and the first prize is a trip to japan, but apparently it's just accompanying the owner on a quick business trip

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>>5832661
Ok, so the answer is double sided tape as I expected

>>5831977
that HAW206 is sexy, who did?

This should really be in the OP, luckily it was easy enough to find.

https://exhentai.org/g/820340/bba4428374/

inb4 sadpanda

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>Leg thrusters can split open

Oh you never cease to amaze me RG line. Except for the stickers but I have given up on that long ago.

>>5832852
Thank you, I did. No trip because I'm not good enough. But I dream of one day being "that guy who takes pictures on his balcony that isn't beamknight"
Hiq parts digital masking tape made the pattern easy. I'm just glad I realized that you can use the outlining tape on the sheet too, made it more economical and diverse.

>>5832814
Man just go to Italy to go as their representative for the GBWC. Sounds like a goddamn hassle just being a toy owner's bitch boy.

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>>5832923
You know whats more economical and diverse?

This thing
https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?scm=1007.10152.33975.1p0&id=534170428514&pvid=8efa38f1-4593-4c95-adc3-6c3f6406920b

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>setting up airbrush to re-prime just 1cm square and then having to pack up and clean up again to let it to dry for a day

>>5832931
Cool thing, perfect for custom digital patterns. But it's not like it works with ordinary masking tape right? So you'd still need some special sheet right? Don't know how much it'd save me in the long run but it is cool.

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>>5832923
>prime my stuff
>glaring faults appear on some pieces
>fix some of them
>want to reprime just a couple pieces because I know they still require work
>think about having to pull out everything to convert my room into a workspace
>and then the effort required to keep everything and clean the airbrush

At least I still have some spraycan primer

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>>5832944
Not really, pictured is probably the chink version of your normal tamiya masking tape.

Just stick it on and cut to size, then remove it.

What they don't show you is that you have to cut precisely(see pic), since the groove seems to be pretty wide.

>>5832876
all i see is a sad panda

>>5832963
http://g.e-hentai.org/g/820340/bba4428374/

Here you go you filthy casual

>>5832970
Thanks

I don't understand most of what's happening in it but maybe one day I will

>>5832978
its easy
nip scratch builds EVERYTHING

>>5832989
From what I've seen, yeah they do and it makes me really envious because it looks really good

I want to learn scratch building but I just can't wrap my head around it and the things they do despite all the pictures and how-to's I've seen of it

I think I'm just bad at this hobby

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>>5832931
I see your chink shit and raise you a genuine article

http://hlj.com/product/PITIT3002/Sup

>>5833012

>backordered
call me again when theres stock

>>5833040
>falling for backordered meme
I just paid for mine on the 25th.

They don't get extra stock for rarely requested items like this, when you order it they get one just for you and the status stays "Backordered" all this time. It will never be "In Stock".

>1/100 kimaris trooper doesnt come with the thumbs up hand

what the fuck bandai
someone post the pic

>>5832594
Have you tried lower pressure?

>>5832715
If it doesn't Simple Green will.

>>5833266
Thanks. I was asking and googling around for an hour and the general consensus is that it should but may take a couple days of soaking.

Basically I painted my graze frame (And in the process learned that while their metallics are great their gloss black base is garbage) and am just unhappy with the results and at this point would rather strip it and repaint the frame in flat greys.

Not that the metallics are bad, but that I'm not happy with how it looks against my other color choices and I messed up a few parts.

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Boxart for Sinanju looks more like fanart than actually an official one.

>>5833285
I thinned the black base with some mr color levelling thinner and it gave me a better gloss. good enough to mirror chrome.

>>5833371
You can polish lacquers, they cure hard

>>5833362
It looks like google image clip art.
Is this the standard for RG?

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Since someone said my green/red/black custom colors were boring, how about this?

>>5833362
>>5833382
RG boxart is always a CG render of the kit

If I don't feel like dropping the money on an airbrush kit, how much trouble is it to just... hand paint everything? I have Testors Enamels and Craftsmart Acrylics in my house from various activities...

>>5833385
Now it's boring and ugly.

>>5833478
I know, it just looks like a pepe to me

Working on a Diorama for a mostly IBO Battle, thinking about putting a few tierens in it, think they would look like they fit right in IBO?

How's the Dragon Momoko Tallgeese 3?

>>5833532
Replace their waists with styrene tubes and they'll fit right in.

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I'm back! From last night, tried painting my Kimaris I put together, first I tried Folkart Craft Paint and that did a horrible job... it wasn't smooth, if I thinned it at all it just wasn't sticking to the model, it'd just run off or pool up like watery paints tend to do on plastics

To be fair I didn't prime it first, mainly because I don't have any primer and just wanted a feel for painting these on a cheap one

Then I tried a vial of my Flat Red Testors Enamel and that worked pretty good, see image, but I'm messy! I'm using the absolute smallest paintbrush I could find in Michaels that I've had for a while, but I couldn't prevent my shaky hands from getting some in the panel lines, as you can see in the image I hope, and couldn't hobby-knife the paint back out...

also I didn't do the panel line wash thing with the black paint because I don't have black craft OR enamel paint! what in the world? ikr... Anyways! Does this problem happen less with hobby acrylics like Citadel? or is it because I DIDN'T do the wash? How do I fix this messiness of my paint job before I move on to more expensive projects

also this was me >>5833432

>>5833680
>How do I fix this messiness of my paint job before I move on to more expensive projects
Masking. Even the most steady of hands can still make mistakes. Also don't use Folk Art for painting gunpla, it doesn't end well.

>>5833680
When hand painting it is very important to not cheap out on the paint or the brushes, cheap paint doesn't have enough pigment and cheap brushes won't apply it smoothly.

>>5833691
So when Airbrushing, these craft paints would be fine? I saw a guy on youtube airbrushing a model car seat with Craftsmart and it looked like it turned out fine

Also it's not a cheap brush, it's a "0000 Winsor&Newton Cotman 111 Round" brush, like $12 I think? for a brush that has like 20 bristles
>>5833685
I figured it would be just as hard to get the tape on those lines correctly as it is to paint them... I guess with paint I can remove and retry though instead of meticulously scratching paint off places it doesn't go, huh...

Also, no Folkart but are other craft brands better? I have some Craftsmart, Apple Barrel and Americana as well.. Like I said, GF works at Michaels (I used to as well, but I quit for a higher paying job) so there is a wide assortment of paints I have almost literally at my fingertips

>>5833702
Same guy, just left out a point.. Not trying to be cheap or snobby, I am going to go to my local card shop to buy some Citadel paints as soon as my next paycheck hits... Gonna see if I can take any of my old YuGiOh or Pokemon holos from back in the day in for store credit to get some

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>>5833703
>trading in holos
NIGGA FUCK YOU DOING NIGGA

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>>5833703
>YOU

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>>5833706
>>5833709
I mean, I have a bunch to chose from, this is all Pokemon and most duplicate Pokemon are stacked, the only same pokemon cards that aren't stacked are if there are 2 different holo designs of the same pokemon... and then I have multiples of some holos too... I doubt they'd want any non-holos, I don't know I buy packs just for the art, me likey

also ignore the cheap folding table, in the middle of a move...

>>5833703
>trading good stuff in at a loss
>trading for some overpriced paint

just don't anon, not if it's for Citadel

>>5833721
Oh is Citadel not even that great? Because nowhere in town sells Tamiya or Mr.Hobby from what I know... and I've heard meh things about Testors Enamels, and they smell so strong..

>>5833680
>>5833685
>>5833702
I hand painted with Folk Art.

Also, what do you guys recommend for brushes for hand painting?

>>5833702
Testors enamels are likely your best bet, as the craft shit has too large of pigment sizes and isn't meant for modeling. From what I've found enamels handbrush better, as they take longer to dry so they level easier. Google search for model handpainting guides, they'll help you immensely.

Here's a couple for starters: http://www.gundammodelkits.com/gundam-painting-tutorial-how-to-paint-gundam-model-kit-with-enamel-paints.html
http://blog.fromjapan.co.jp/en/anime/gundam/gundam-kit-painting-guide-for-realistic-models.html

>>5833736
Citadel is just overpriced because Games Workshop are greedy fucks. But they do work, if you're willing to shell out the money.

You guys are fucking boring. Is this gunpla general or fucking blog general?

Doesnt anybody post actual built gunpla? The only gunpla i see are unassembled in boxes.

Why dont you all go to the irc to talk about your god damned paint and trading cards and masking tapes?

Fuck, might as wel just call these threads 'arts and crafts general' since there's never any plamo or gunpla posted.

>>5833751
discussing the accessories used to build gunpla isn't related to gunpla?

>>5833745
Yeah, I mean I used Folkart, too, but it was streaky and didn't work too great.. If I'm going to end up buying a ~$50 model I wanna make it look good

>>5833748
My card shop has them for ~$3 a bottle for Citadel, which is about the same price as Testors, but thanks for the links, I'll go check them out now!

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>>5833751
spicy bait but I build gunpla

>>5833751
So what you're looking for is a Gunpla Gallery, might I direct you to Dalong? Sorry I didn't realize in my Overwatch general all we were supposed to post is finished products like PotG webmv or score screen snapshots, if I wanted that I'd go to leddit

>>5833757
I did a few coats on mine and it got less streaky. It takes time and a lot of patience. In the future, I'm using Vallejo though.

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>>5833751
My WiP and also doing some practice painting.

>>5833766
Ah, yeah see I started going all crossy-eyed doing one coat on such a small surface area, I know doing multiple coats is way better for any paint, though so imma end up having to get one of those fancy magnifying glasses that you see jewelers use in movies
>Vallejo
another brand that is not sold anywhere in my town that I know of...

>>5833772
Do you have a hobby lobby? That's my only source for hobby supplies in town, and it stocks both Testors and Vallejo. It has a few Tamiya brand products as well. Primer, luckily.

>>5833773
A Hobby Lobby was literally JUST built and opened a couple weeks ago, it's across town though and haven't gone in, didn't know they sold those brands! Thanks I might swing in there tonight if I can get there before they close

>>5833776
Head down to the Hobby kits aisle.

>>5833776
If you're doing this then get Vallejo if you can. It's easily the best choice you can use for handpainting.

>>5833778
>>5833780
They close in an hour so I'm leaving now! Wish me luck, they'll probably be super busy...

>>5833780
If you're handpainting model color try the magic thinning sauce in the guide. It's like 1 part water, 1 part Future, and some retarder. A good thinner should have some of the paint binder in it, otherwise you end up with a very weak paint.

>>5833736
>Tamiya or Mr.Hobby

Both smell way more than testors, fuck they all smell

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Built my first Zaku today! HGUC Zaku I Sniper, super cool build, came with a Zaku Machine Gun as well.

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>>5833853
My Gunpla collection so far. Going to be panel lining the SD Nu Gundam next.

>>5833800
>>5833784
>>5833780
Just got back, got some Vallejo, just one bottle to try it out for now, and some Tamiya liquid primer.. Vallejo is definitely better than the others I've used.. I kinda liked the color quality of the Testors Enamel I had, but maybe it's just the specific color I picked up in vallejo or something, who knows

I DID forget to get paint thinner to clean my brushes, though, and I can't find the GFs nail polish remover because of the move, so hopefully I don't ruin a brush by just hand washing it in warm water and not getting ALL the paint out... we'll see

>>5833865
>>5833853
What the fuck? Those weapons actually came in with more than one color?

>>5833950
What are you gonna thin the paint with, water?
Vallejo's thinner should be there. Also, did they have a flat blue at yours? Mine fucking doesn't and it makes me mad.

>Build Zaku F2000
>over all find it very meh
>Downgrade it to the Zaku F2
>Fucking top tier high grade, absolutely love it

Anyone wanna buy the F2000 parts off me?

>>5833960
Show me a before and after.

>>5833956
I got Deep Sky Blue, which was a good mid color between the other two blues they had, one was darker and the other was duller it seemed

aaaand didn't think about thinning it, it's water based so water shouuuld work, but I'll probably end up getting the thinner anyways

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(PIC RELATED)
thinking of buying this dude what do you guys think?

>>5833965
Yeah, that's what I figured, but apparently its thinner works best. I'm definitely grabbing that when I start my next paint project. Lemme know how that blue works out, otherwise I have to order flat blue at twice the price.

>>5833968
A very good ZEON build if you're getting into gunpla.

[spoiler]I used to not like Gyan, but the more I see it, the more I want one.

>>5833956
IIRC Vallejo can be thinned fine with water.

>>5833970
I don't know how well Enamels work with Acrylics, or even if you want to do this, but like I said the color quality of the Flat Red I have from Testors Enamels is a wonderful red, so if you wanted to just get flat blue testors instead of ordering?

But yeah I'm probably going to order another kit tonight and paint my current one tomorrow after the gym so I'll keep updating if it turns out alright

>>5833968
New kit is everything you want from a melee ms good poses, stylish sword and even better hands for those saber thrusts.

>>5833751
If you want a box of people posting pictures of kits and jacking each other off go to reddit.

>>5833972
>>5833977
GOD DAM IT GUYS! i ordered it,its to good to pass by i think i might order another one just to have a weatherd version to

>>5833951
Decals my friend! :^) The scope pushes in enough to make it look seamless.

>>5833751
Unless you want a pic of primed, roofless HO scale buildings, a varnished pinewood base, and some parts soaking in purple power you're going to have to wait a week or so. Building shit takes time.

>>5833963
It's just a purple Zaku F2, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70z4ams7yOk

>>5833950
DO NOT clean your brushes with nail polish remover or "Cleaner". Unless you have some sort of synthetic brushes.

Because that stuff will ruin hair brushes.

>>5834001
This actually makes me feel good
A good quality build should take a week to make it good? I've been procrastinating on mine for a little while... Built it night before last and I'm too scared to paint it

>>5834005
>citrus

>>5833976
>I don't know how well Enamels work with Acrylics, or even if you want to do this, but like I said the color quality of the Flat Red I have from Testors Enamels is a wonderful red, so if you wanted to just get flat blue testors instead of ordering?

You mean mixing them? Because they won't. Enamel are oil based and vallejo is water based. You would literally be trying to get oil and water to mix.

>>5834011
Oh okay! Thanks! I'm not entirely sure if these are real hair or not, so I'm not going to risk it I suppose... Is there another good way to get paint out of bristles without it though? Because I'm either gonna ruin a brush with nail polish remover, or I'm gonna ruin a brush because I probably didn't wash all the paint out because I didn't want to pull out the bristles, so it's gonna dry there...

>>5834012
I've been working on mine for over a month. A week is like a basic paintjob. Maybe two.

This is a project due for GBWC in less than 2 weeks.

>>5834014
Fuck man, I gave you what you wanted, want me to eat your ass next?

>>5834017
Nah, like visually... If your model is painted all acrylic, but instead of waiting on Vallejo Flat Blue using Testors Flat Blue enamel will it look bad? Because I'm not about that whole "waiting x days for a single color" life

>>5834024
GBWC stresses me out!! I looked it up yesterday, those are really good paint jobs!! I want to be that good but I probably will never be

>>5834019
Have a jar/cup of water that you don't feel bad messing up possibly permanently while you paint (Just get a cheapo plastic cup or something) and swish your brush around in it between coats/colors and wipe it off on a paper towel (Don't leave it soaking in the water though). Then when you're done wash it all out under the sink.

If you're just using vallejo water based acrylics this should be enough.

That Tamiya liquid primer is something different though and you may have a hard time even brushing it as IIRC it is lacquer based and intended for airbrush.

>>5834029
>I want to be that good but I probably will never be
Not with that attitude you won't. Keep in mind all these people submitting entries started out shit too.

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>>5834036
True.. Good inspiration, I guess... I'm really bad, I'm too pessimistic for my own good

But look at this! I know it was the top one but jeez it looks like it was carved out of wood!! and "Dash's Legendary Mobile Suit U.N.O.M. Test Type 001-Mixcoatl" by Kevin Zhang too, sweet modifications!! I don't even know how to do that yet

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>>5834036
Case in point: My first kit getting back into the hobby vs my GBWC entry last year. This is after about 3-4 years, and I did nothing but snapfag for the first year and the second year was basically just small paint touch ups and flat coat at most. Just try new things, fuck up, and try again.

>>5834048
That looks so cool!! I guess I shouldn't be afraid to paint cheapo Gundams to start off with... Do you recommend spray primer or paint on primer? Also, about how much money from start to finish, including the price of the model itself, do you think you spent on that entry? Just curious roundabout estimate on the price of a kickass gunpla build

ZakuAurelias or w/e his name is on youtube was saying he could make a good gunpla build without props like that for ~$100 and that seemed like a lot but maybe I'm underestimating how much paint is used

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custom origin zakus

>>5833976
Well, I'll be ordering the kits to be painted as well, so it's not that big of a bother. I wish we had a hobbytown in town.

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>>5834092

>>5834106
>>5834092
I don't like Zaku... They all look the same to me, I mean these look great but they're all pretty much just recolors of each other

>>5834092
>>5834106
One of these days I'm going to buy 5 grunts and paint them up as super sentai.

>>5834110
i think you miss the part of "mass produced" mobile suit

>>5834106
more

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>>5834110
Zakus are great blank canvases for customising though.
everyone should build at least one MG 2.0 zaku.

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>>5834120

>tfw you can't tell the difference between orange peel, satin or matte coat

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>>5834027
My second paint job so far with hand painting

>>5833211
Not yet. I was running it through at Testor's recommended range of 20-25 psi.
I'll drop it down and test that when I get around to making CHROME MACHINE!!

>>5833371
Hmm, what ratio did you thin it?

>>5834201
What are those colored orbs on ththe front of that shelf?

>>5834132
matte is smooth but not shiny, while orange peel is exactly as it sounds, a rough uneven texture. look at the paint on any car that has it's factory paintjob if you want a good example

>>5834237
Middle shelf or top?
Middle shelf are medals from Kamen Rider OOO.
Top shelf are eyecons from Kamen Rider Ghost.

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>>5832137
Samefag here. What about Vallejo surface primer? This video shows them airspraying it and has some pretty good results.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=_d3e__zE4dU

>>5834393
>acrylic
>primer
pick one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no

>>5834407
it's polyurethane

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>>5834120
>>5834092
>>5834106

all origin zakus

>>5834448
That's a big hawk.

>>5834412
Not him but lacquer primers rely on the lacquer thinner to attack the surface of the plastic and create strong adhesion between the primer and the plastic, so it doesn't rub off easily and would require sanding, serious scratching, or more lacquer thinner to clean up.

Polyurethane is the particular material the acrylic is - maybe it's a little tougher than other water based acrylics - but it's still water based.

>>5834451
4U

>>5834457
but wouldn't a lacquer primer with acrylic paints on top be equally likely to scratch, given the paint itself, not the primer, was acrylic? It seems like an acrylic primer and paintjob, followed by an enamel or lacquer topcoat would do a better job at protecting the paint underneath from scratches, while also being easier to handle

jesus christ you guys just get a can of primer and spray it on there

unless you are playing with the model i dont see why scratch protection is such a big deal

>>5834470
What if the model transforms?

>>5834470
That shit adds up anon. If I can get primer that is a lot cheaper and still does the job good the I want to do so.

>>5834470
>i dont see why scratch protection is such a big deal

Its a big deal on any articulated kit, unless you snapfag, which makes it strange your commenting about primer.

>>5834464
>wouldn't a lacquer primer with acrylic paints on top be equally likely to scratch, given the paint itself, not the primer, was acrylic
it would because acrylic has shit adhesion either way, but so would acrylic primer+paint even with lacquer top coat on top

if you want decent scratch protection, go lacquer all the way (but it would still scratch off if you actually scratch it)

>>5834492
and ohbytheway you can't sand acrylic/polyurethane """""primer""""""

like, at all

>>5834487
>Its a big deal on any articulated kit
its not a big deal though

>>5834464
Lacquer throughout is pretty much the ideal, stuff's tough. That said, a strong layer of primer will mean the acrylic on top will be tougher than if you were just using an acrylic primer. Plastic to paint isn't going to have any chemical bond with acrylic primers, it's purely mechanical. So unless you sanded your plastic to give it proper texture the acrylic primer to plastic bond will be really weak, probably weaker than primer to other paint, because that plastic is as smooth as a baby's cheek out of the box.

Not sure why you think acrylic primer and acrylic paint would create a stronger bond. Like you said the primer is polyurethane, idk what the other paint you're using is, but in any case once the primer is cured I don't think you can expect some sort of chemical bonding to occur.

In short, acrylic primer to plastic is probably a bigger concern than primer to paint.

You can go ahead and use the vallejo primer if you have no other options, I've personally never tried it and I tend not to use acrylic primers, not even the stuff in cans like The Army Painter. You should try sanding the gunpla with a somewhat high grit sandpaper before you do, and then give it a soak in a plastic-safe cleaner that removes grease/oil, like diluted simple green. The sanding will create a surface that provides better mechanical grip for the primer. To put it into perspective, basic surface prep can make a difference between over a dozen lbs of strength vs a few pounds when you're super gluing junk. You really should do it for anything you want to paint or glue (except maybe plastic cement, since that just melts plastic together). You should still clean it though.

>>5834492
>if you want decent scratch protection, go lacquer all the way (but it would still scratch off if you actually scratch it)
To be fair most things will scratch or wear off when it's like hundredths of a mm thin.

>>5834499
>buys articulated model kit
>paints articulated model kit
>can't use articulation on model kit because the paint will scratch.
Nice statue you got there.

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>>5834567
>implying it's not how it is no matter what you do
>implying people ever repose their painted kits

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can't see shit captain

>>5834607
Reminds me of the Jenice.

>>5834598
don't pretned you can pose a painted kit just as easily as you paint a snap fitted kit.
you need to be very fucking careful and not move it too much.

>>5834125
Gonna start off with char's 2.0 to complete his OYW nonZeong collection. But I'm curious about what will become of the new psycho zaku ver ka.

>>5834618
I fucking dare you to spend a couple of months painting a competition-tier kit and then pose it.

>>5834630
And I would do it just like the people that pose them for the competition. With extreme care, carrying the parts in boxes with styrafoam on all sides, detatching the libs for transport.

You can't just pick up your painted kits on a whim and switch up the poses however you want.

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>>5834630

>couple of months painting

>>5834618
>you need to be very fucking careful and not move it too much.

A great deal of people with skill who paint spend the (sometimes considerable) extra time after the kits primed to reassemble & deal with the contacting surfaces & parts clearance before painting. People who dont care if its a statue skip this step. Dont act like its impossible to have a poseable painted kit without paint rub when plenty of people do it.

>>5834632
>I would do it just like the people that pose them for the competition
>never been to a competition
And you would lose if your kit was not pre-posed for painting and all joints glued.

>>5834618
It's called planning you retard. Many modelers take the time to sand down touching edges and apply felt tape on inner faces to protect the paint from the plastic. It's like you've never done anything but snapbuild in your entire life.

>>5834634

you know anon, thats not an unreasonable amount of time for a competition grade effort. Some people spend a lot longer.

>>5834635
>people take considerable extra time to deal with contacting surfaces to prevent scratches.

Now go to the original post

>>5834499
>Its a big deal on any articulated kit
its not a big deal though


Seems like you agree it is a big deal.

>>5834637
not everyone in the gbwc has the kits pre-posed. There are high level modelers that re-assemble on the spot. but you're just proving my point. Articulation is null when you paint because of scratch risk.

>>5834642

>>5834598
>>implying it's not how it is no matter what you do
>>implying people ever repose their painted kits

???

>>5834645
sooo we agree then
the only way to prevent scratches is either to not paint or pick one pose and never change it which kind of defeats the purpose of having so many accessories and points of articulation.

>>5834598
oh btw if you think that's a competition level kit I've got some news for you..

>>5834642

what are you trying to say? i made both the greentext comments you quoted (except you edited and reworded the first one a lot, why?)

both imply it takes a lot of work to have a painted yet still articulated kit. Why are you assuming i'm the same person who said it wasnt a big deal?

>>5834648
Not a part of this shitfest but even if this was the case I don't really think it defeats the purpose, accessories and points of articulation give you a ton of options and the ability to test out poses early on, so even if you end up making a statue you have a number of different posing options at your disposal right out of the box, and the aesthetics are often better when its a realistic pose the sculpt can actually pull off.

You can do whatever you want with the thing anyways, if you paint it and give it one specific pose for the best effect then why would you ever need to change it, and if you intend to make it more like a toy and re-pose often you'll just take precautions to minimize scratching

>Paint Scratching General.

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Really wanted that tie interceptor but the Amazon prices are ridiculous for it atm. Hope it will come down before Rouge one. Interceptor has a 500 jpy lower MSRP than the y-wing but costs more atm

Hello /gpg/, .S.T.A.L.K.E.R. guy here (no one remembers me)

I'm thinking of starting a blog to review obscure Gundam related stuff (pens, cutlery and crockery, less known toy/figure lines, etc)

I've made a trial post, can I post it here for you guys to read and give comments, criticisms, ideas etc on.

I suck at writing shit, but want something to spend some extra time on while taking a break from building gunpla.

>>5834708

thats rape prices. go to plamoya.

>>5834717
To be fair, that's including freight from Japan and it's marked gift. So no customs charges. So I consider it pretty cheap 19 quid is roughly ¥2500, which is MSRP for these kits (except the y-wing) street prices are around ¥2000 of course but with freight and no customs surcharge I certainly don't feel ripped off, but Fuck paying £29 for the interceptor, it will come down in price.

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Hey look, actual progress.

I had a lot more in mind for this, but if I'm going to make that deadline then this is gonna be it.

Anyone know how Modo and Gaianotes compare?

>>5834448
That's bad ass

Anyone else disappointed with this year's customize campaign parts?

http://hobbynotoriko.yumenogotoshi.com/hg-cc-2016.html

>>5835016
I am. I've been waiting a while for more cool weapons but they all just look ridiculous to me.

>>5835016
Are they ever any good?
That extendo-gun looks pretty stupid.

>>5834448
Got any more pics of the Zaku Cannon?

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>>5835027
I think of the best of the four is the arm gatling.

That shield has potential too.

>>5835035
That actually looks decent.

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>>5835045
And the shield. I feel that with a tiny bit of modding you could easily make the spike look like a beam rifle barrel sticking out from the underside of the shield. Cause who doesn't like shield integrated weaponry?

>>5835054
I like the jaws of life polearm. Other than that and the arm gattling they're pretty lame.

>>5835016
Where can I buy these?

>>5835153
You're pretty new, huh?

>>5835035
I want to like the arm gatling, but it's bothering me how large it is compared to the arm.

Is anyone familiar with the Kamen Rider figurise line? I'm told they are similar to MG builds, but how are details and articulation? Does it rely on foil stickers?

>>5834618

If fucking Transformers customs can be painted and still be transformable, then Gunpla kits can be painted and still be posed.

>>5835016
They're always disappointing. They have a strange aesthetic that doesn't fit in with any universe and just looks like junk slapped together.

>>5835054

if you don't put on the ugly "jaws" then this is just a nice pile bunker shield. best of the bunch probably.

>>5835320
If you sharp the outer edges of the "jaws" and paint them like a heat hawk's edge, then you can hand wave it away as a choppy bitz on your shield.

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>>5834598
What model is this? I want to make a Raijin-Fūjin set, and I feel like this would be a decently good Raijin, because the only other sets I found are
>GSX-401FW Stargazer Gundam
for Fūjin, because he has the ring, what I've dubbed as the Susano'o ring thanks to Digimon

The only other sets I found that would be decent for Raijin are either the one I'm quoting, or Legend Gundam or Providence Gundam, but that won't even work because it's not a ring, it's more like a shield it looks like... Thinking maybe I can take parts from Shin Musha and combine them to use that oriental armor, but I don't know

Any ideas, please let me know

When we buy a kit, do we get to choose which campaign part we get, or do they just give us a random one? I'm in Japan atm.

I'm eyeballing that gatling gun.

>>5835403
campaign part? if you look on the back of the box there should be all the weapons and accesories laid out neatly

>>5835406
I'm talking about the customize campaign parts

http://hobbynotoriko.yumenogotoshi.com/hg-cc-2016.html

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>>5835164
I guess...

>>5835408

im guessing your new, buy a bunch of hg's, you get a bunch of campaign parts, the parts you get vary depending on the month. If you want multiple of the same set, go to mandarake.

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Well did my first attempt at Panel Lining.
I know Sharpie but eh first time and it's a cheap and easy kit to make.
I really wanna get the 3 pack of official Gundam Markers but not sure where. Maybe Amazon?

>>5835398
90% of it is custom but the base just looks like the HGFC God Gundam.

>>5835518
Amaon has it but there's better pens than Gundam marker and also you can panel wash instead too. Sakura Micron are quite nice. That lining looks like ass, clean it up later and re-do it. Lines shouldn't be thick.

As a side note, you may as well learn to paint on the Mock since it's basic and after painting you could give it personal flair, meant for that in-universe.

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So I'm about to start doing panel line wash and paintings on my first gunpla, have been posting here recently, but I took apart the body and remembered a problem I had when assembling, this part in the chest core doesn't want to go together properly, I've taken it all the way apart, everything I can see looks like it's in right but I don't know why this gap is here, and it's making other parts (which I'll show in next image) not fit together properly... What can I do here? This is the best picture I can take of it, it's the HG 1/144 IBO Kimaris

>>5835518

copic modeller pens are definitely the best, they wont dissolve like others if you clearcote with lacquer, they also have the finest tips (0.02). Sakura microns are good if you just snapfag but some spraypaint clears eat them.

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>>5835579
This is the chest put together, how the purple pieces don't seam up properly, and it's bothering me... and ignore the marks all over the plastic, thats just me messing with the plastic since it's my first one, my brain thought squeezing with pliers would be smart to get the two pieces together

>>5835518

nasty panel lining but fixable. Go buy some lighter fluid and apply it with a q-tip to wipe up all the excess.

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>>5835582
>>5835579
okay so I sanded down a PC piece inside the shoulder and it fixed the issue of the frame not going together properly, but the purple piece that goes around the neck won't fit in with the chest guard like it's supposed to still!! So I took it all off, just put on the neckguard and the two shoulder guards without the chest piece and it goes together fine so it's obviously either the chest guard or the part under the neckguard that fits into it that is the issue, but I don't know how to modify it to fix it....

>>5835611
Okay last post from me and I'm done.. So I fixed it, I took all 4 purple pieces off the frame, the two shoulder the neck and the chest, put them together off the frame and they fit fine, then I kinda... Forced the frame in under the armor, without breaking anything, and it... kinda fits together? I feel like the PC pieces for the arm nubs are a little lower than they're supposed to be, but the arms still fit... to afraid to take it back apart to paint so this should be fun, wish me luck

Panel lining time

>>5835620
Panel lining is done AFTER painting.

>>5835644
yeah I realized that after doing 2 limbs and the body LOL! Don't think I'm going to paint this one anyways... I only have Deep Blue Vallejo and Flat Red Testors so I don't have a lot of colors to choose from anyways

What is that step list I see people post?

Clean > Prime > Base Coat > Panel > Top Coat > Finish? Is that it?

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>>5835655

>>5835655

this is what I do

Plastic > primer > color > gloss clear> panel lines & decals > Final semi gloss or flat clear

>>5835655
Dude, just give that shit spidey colors.

>>5835658
>straight build
>no top coat

what?

>>5835670
>STRAIGHT BUILD
I WONDER WHY
That's for snap fit builds, you goof.

>>5835655

soapy wash or auto plastic degreaser, denub & seam removal, prime, base coat, shade & wash, panel line, thin clear, decals, final clear

>>5835682
>soapy wash
What does this do?

>>5835682
Show me your builds.

>>5835689
its an old modelers thing where the plastic used to be coated with oily mold release that they need to wash off, but in reality this is 2016 and it isnt the case anymore

>>5835689
Removes the mold release agent that gets the runners out of the molds that's still on the runners. If it's still on the parts when you prime and paint, the paint may not stick on as well.

>>5835696
>>5835699
Huh. That's insane.

>>5835696
It's still good practice and will clean off any dust or grime there might be on it. It's not like these things are packaged in clean rooms.

Really it's probably good practice to do the wash before priming, which may mean doing it after building.

>>5835707
Well, it's too late. I already started building.

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>>5835707
I sand every part of every piece before primer anyway

to get really pro results everything has to be sanded down lightly, there are many mold lines even on brand new bandai kits

sometimes guys dont even bother like on this origin

>>5835718
You can do it after building. It's literally just soap water or water mixed with a cleaner. It'll get everywhere and once you're done letting it soak you can just rinse it off with tap water.

>>5835723
There's also the obvious nubs. I'm not really sure what that guy was going for.

>>5835728
[spoiler]I've already applied foil stickers.

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>>5835730
the left pic is just a quick snap job, its the right pic im talking about

the guy custom built a ramba ral zaku but never even bothered to file down that mold release line

Guys, I'm looking for an MG to build other than Infinite Justice. I chose Infinite Justice because that was my first HG build and I liked it, but I'm looking at other MGs and I can't find any that I really want.
What are some personal suggestions for fun and good looking builds?

>>5835746
MG 2.0 Freedom to go along your Justice

>>5835748
I don't care for kits with so much white, but it does look pretty good.

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Why are they doing this to us?

>>5835746
Turn X

>>5835819
Holy fuck. That, and Turn A look bad ass.

>>5835816
it isn't out yet? wat the fuck

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What did he mean by this?

>>5835839
1 turn is another way of saying 1 revolution, or 2π. 2π = 6.2831, which in milligrams is 10^-6 kilograms.

Any idea of how good the gold trim will be for the RG sinanju?

>>5835859
it's chrome plated, and the sprue is connected to the pieces under them, so the chrome won't be ruined when removing the pieces. overall, pretty good, better than stickers

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>>5835859
plated runners, we've known for a while now since it was originally shown off with the runners I think

What are some extremely detailed/complex mecha kits?
I tried some of the MG ver ka but was ultimately disappointed. Are PG my only option?

>>5835874
Real grade should give you a sufficient headache

>>5835874
HMM Zoids.

>>5835682

Speaking of this, how long do you all usually leave it in the cleaning solution?

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>>5835874
>>5835877
Seconding HMM Zoids.

These are the runners for Gojulas.

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>>5835874

Sounds to me like you're ready for Five Star Stories kits, my man!
http://www.volks.co.jp/fss/
Nagano designs revel in their almost ridiculous complexity.

>>5835896
I wish it wasn't so hard to find some of the HSGKs.

I might just give up and buy some recasts.

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GOUF TACTICAL DEMONSTRATOR

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http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10Pc-Bag-17-Graver-Blades-for-Art-knife-Pen-knife-Cutter-knife-Craft-knife/32665271583.html

>>5835938
Why doesn't any company make something that's like a #17, but with the blade on the side instead?

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So WIP, don't think I'll be able to finish before the due date. It's way too fucking hot man. I gotta reprime one of the legs too since I accidentally sprayed it like I did another thing I did ages ago.

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Part 2. I walked outside without shoes and the screen was really hard to see in the angle I have to take pictures at, so I couldn't tell if it was focused or not.

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How to thin Vallejo? Can you use water? Because I just did a.... 60-70% Paint to 30-40% water and it was wayy too thin and would NOT stick to the plastic of the model whatsoever

So I primed it with some Tamiya liquid primer and then painted it on and it stuck a little better but not much, so do I HAVE to use Vallejo thinner? or am I using too much water? Because if thats the case, I feel anything less than 30% water is just a waste of time

pic related, top paint is on primer, bottom is what it looks like without being primed.. Ignore the super top of the image, I'm using this cheapo gundam for testing (turns out getting enamel on your hands, even if you cant wash it off it'll still rub off onto your gunpla! also poor panel lining job I know shh)

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>>5836030
>40% water
>lol why wont it stick

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And the back. At this point my feet were getting burnt. You can see the messed up leg. It just needs another coat really.
Oh, this is the GM cannon II for those unfamiliar. I really like the design, but the thing about the GM cannon II is is that it's slow as dirt and is more for artillery then it is actual battle. So I added tank treads and the thrusters from the "wings" of the GPO2A to the legs. The little things on the side of the legs are also supposed to be thrusters, but I don't have a scribing tool to add the little lines that would better define that.

>>5836030
>How to thin Vallejo?
1. check OP.
2. click link in OP to last gunpla general
3. repeat step 2, taking you 2 generals back from present
3. ctrl+f "vallejo"
4. go to 2nd instance, follow directions

In the future, try using this method in general. You would be amazed at how effective it is. In fact, just ctrl+f on "Vallejo" for the last couple threads to get general discussion that will help solve your problems.
I made this post, because it's like you haven't read the last couple threads and just came in after everyone was talking about this and asked about it all over again. Plus, the thinner mentioned in the instructions I gave you directions to find is actually in the OP guide somewhere. The more you knoe!

>>5836030
>I feel anything less than 30% water is just a waste of time
What does this even mean? You are wasting time using paint with less water in it? That makes no sense. It does not take more time to use paint that has less water in it.

Good way to sand parts down?
I mostly build HG's.

>>5836095
sand paper

>>5836095
try sandblasting it

>>5835016
>http://hobbynotoriko.yumenogotoshi.com/hg-cc-2016.html

What size are the pegs on these? The two gatling guns don't look that bad.

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>>5836106
I you want a pro finishing like the ones that all the others posting here archieve do what he says

>>5835723
wait, that's not intentional? I thought that was just a detail line

>>5836045
So I'm just supposed to know that some made a post about how to thin Vallejo several generals ago? That's assuming too much.

>>5836148
its a mold line

its like pretty much all zaku II power cables have a mold line running across them too and nobody ever files it down and it pisses me off

heres the promo model its totally smooth
>>5832482

>>5836124
Start with high grade sand paper and move to lower grade. Rub very lightly.

>>5836186
thats a little disapointing. I might just scribe that line because it looks cool

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What's this sticker that comes with the action base 2 for?

>>5836311
Sticker for a certain part to write or label whatever you want on it

>>5836035
>those tiny fucking treads
They look kinda tacked on really.

>>5835816
We'll be free of this suffering soon


I hope

>>5836035
>>5836025
>>5836020
Those tank treads are not functional at all. They're probably slower than the GM is on it's own. And it's gonna have to bend it's ankles inwards to use them, which'll look even stupider.
Besides, if they really need to get somewhere quickly they'll just use those handy dandy thrusters and hover away.
Everything about that Cannon II looks awesome except the treads. The treads ruin the look.

>>5836315
>>5836328
Advice noted. Luckily, They weren't glued in or anything. I cna just patch up the tiny hole in the side of the feet and remove them.

New thread: >>5836367

>>5836035
Your primer could use some sanding, but it's looking good. I see I'm not the only one who's given their GM Cannon II additional leg thrusters. Alas I'm running far behind schedule too. I haven't even finished basic construction let alone priming. I'm sick, and it's way too fucking hot out. Too fucking hot inside too for that matter.

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>>5836369
>only on page 3
>TIEM FOR A NEW THREAD

>>5836175
>So I'm just supposed to know
No you clueless moron, you are supposed to try to use your brain from time to time. I just gave you a hint.

>>5833968
>what do you guys think?
piloted by a fag

>>5835816
The longer it takes the more I am tempted to order up a second one.

I get this bad feeling this will be the first and only skell model kit to be made.

>>5833968
Just wait for gyancelot

>>5837484
>gyancelot
I know man it looks really fucking promicing as fuck trust me ill get it to after all i cant leave my gyan feeling alone that would be cruel

Anyone know how tamiya with Mr Leveling Thinner compares to Mr Color? How is the glossiness, how strong are they, etc.

Also, what's the best clear pink and flesh I can get?