Scale Model General Thread

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WIP: still lurking still working on my cancer of a model

>>5820943
Almost everyone starts off making abominations man, I can look back at the early stuff I made and can't believe it.

The best thing you can do to improve your results though is to get an airbrush and learn to spray properly.

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>>5820943
I need to get good at thinning, so far it's a blotchy mess. I'll probably switch to 1/72 until I can hand brush better

>>5820975
Watch this guys videos to help you handbrush better:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWPk2gm6bRIouyW4pyEw7CQ

>>5820978
I have, It's kinda hard since I can't get the thinning consistently right and my hands shake ( I've been able to get it better recently by adjusting my arm a certain way recently when I was working on some gunpla)

my next project is a 1/72nd academy mustang, I'm not going to paint it once I can get the thinning consistency right so hopefully it turns out better

>>5820960
>>5820975
Not saying I'm not proud, it's trash but it's MY trash >>5820960 and I'm getting an airbrush tomorrow and know almost nothing about it, do you just use acrylic or do you need something special

>>5820993
What kind of paints are you using? Vallejo works pretty well for hand-brushing, avoid using Tamiya though as its not very good. Enamels also work well, though you need a respirator to paint with them due to the fumes.

>>5820996
You can airbrush anything, Vallejo makes their own paints for airbrushing (Vallejo Air), Tamiya's paints are excellent for airbrushing, and enamels can be airbrushed by thinning with mineral spirits (aka White spirit).

I really prefer Tamiya for airbrushing, thinned with lacquer thinner (though you can always just stick to Tamiya X-20A thinner). I usually thin Tamiya to a 1:1 paint to thinner ratio.

>>5821004
I've been using tamiya enamels to handbrush

>>5821004
Lmao I just use Water, does that work

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I was in the last thread asking about airbrushes. Today I went out and bought a Testors Aztek with a Paasche D500 air compressor from Colpar Hobbies here in Colorado. Hope I didn't fuck this up. The place also had some Iwata airbrushes as well as a Badger. I looked at all of them and asked as many questions as I could think but the Aztek was the one that the guy I was talking to used.

For fun here's a picture of a GDI themed F-22 I did. No airbrush for this one, just one can or spray paint, painters tape and a couple of hand paint jars.

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WIP adding 5 shell impacts, lower glacis, left of the MG, where the destroyed light in the middle is and one on the side of the turret, How should I do this, just nearly a pin?

>>5821215
Sorry, on tablet corrected heat up to nearly some how

Anyone just use pastels for weathering? Like, not fancy pigments?

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>>5819209
>>5819216
This.

Main problem: choice of wood.

Pine is ghetto-tier even if chosen carefully, but you bought a knotty piece of shit m8.

You would need to paint it solid dark color and use a tub of filler to fill all the cracks and imperfections and then probably coat it with clear resin for it to look decent. At which point you are better off with a piece of plastic or resin.

Hardwoods are a thing for a reason.

>>5820902
You honor me, OP.
>>5821036
Thinning Enamel paint with water leads to a bad time, an unsatisfactory episode and a lousy afternoon.
Get a pack of Vallejo paints for hand brushing and stock up on Tamiya for airbrushing.
If you like, I could write up a short list of paints you'd need, some for universal use and some for German tanks.

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>>5821219
I did mine by using a Dremel to make a dent by using a ball sanding bit, then I used Milliput to spice it up.
>>5821315
I do and it works great.
Pastels are dirt cheap compared to pigments. Just scrape the dust off, maybe use a sieve to get finer dust and there you go.
Get the oil-free pastels as the other ones don't make dust, I think.

>>5821632
>oil-free pastels

Chalk pastels are what you are referring to.

>>5821726
Yeah, that would be it.
I'm not that well-versed when it comes to art supplies.

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Don't recall who asked for them, but here's the photos of the Trumpeter 1/35 E-25. It's been on a shelf for a while so it's a bit dusty.
It's a nice enough kit, plenty of PE for detailing, and has two top-plate options; one with the turreted MG, one without.

>>5820943
Don't worry to much.

Once you paint the tools, cables and the rubber on the roadwheels and add a basic wash it will look way better.

Keep in mind that german Camo during WW2 was applied by the crew themselves. With the tools they had available. Some had airbrush, some used regular brushes, others even had to use gras or tree-branches to apply the paint.
Some thinned their paint with gasoline, others with diesel, others probably used water.. (altering not only the behavior of the paint, but probably also its color to a degree).

With german vehicles in WW2 (especially late) you can get away with anything.

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>>5821817
I will say that as I've used an aftermarket barrel, it's a little loose and droops. Not sure on a fix other than a spot of glue to fix it in position when the model's complete, as there's no interior access once it's assembled.

Anyone know of a 1/48 or 1/56 scale Soviet artillery/field gun kit? I'm looking for one for Bolt Action, preferably an A-19 or an M1937. I know Gaso.line makes an M1937 but they seem to be as rare as hen's teeth.

>>5821817
>>5821819
Looking good.
Fun fact: The machine gun turret actually belonged to Porsche's project and so your tank is more 'historically correct' if you can really say that about a Paper Panzer.

>>5821831
Yeah, I intended that.
I definitely didn't accidentally not notice that I'd put the non-turreted top plate on until it was too late.
Nope.

>>5821825
Plastic soldier company (PSC) makes a 28mm/1/56 kit of a 45mm AT gun. The kit comes with a 76mm barrel as well.

(link related: http://theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=205)

There is also a AA gun made by UM in 1/48:
http://modelsua.com/Soviet-37-mm-antiaircraft-gun-1939-K-61-early-variant-1-48-UM-516.html

Thats all i know besides resin kits.
I'm sure you'll find better links/prices than these, i just picked the first ones from google.

>>5821843
Thanks for those; I meant the 152mm M1937, however, not the 45mm. Bloody Soviets and their naming procedures...

>>5821866
There is the trenchworx 3d-printed 122mm howitzer if the smaller caliber is fine to you.
http://trenchworx.com/product/122mm-howitzer/

I have no idea about the quality of their 3d-printed stuff though.

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WIP stripped zimmerit then poked a pin in and scratched up the area around, it looks pretty rudimentary but I'm proud of it

>>5821905
What the fuck

Literally just threw up

>>5821925
don't know if it's my shitty shells or my shitty camera or probably both lmao

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>>5821484
Bad choice in wood or not, it's what I had and it's what I used, and I'm proud of how it turned out regardless of what you say.

There's only one single spot on the wood that has anything that could be considered a crack, and it's not even a mm wide. I sanded down the entire piece to 2000 grit sandpaper, it's practically polished already though I'm going to seal it with a semi-gloss varnish.

I'm not going to paint it either because I really like the way it looks. Appearances are subjective.

Anyways I've had enough discussing this bullshit so I'm going to move on. Still working on the Indianapolis, making progress on the rigging. There's also a bunch of other smaller details I need to flesh out, been looking over some reference photos to add them.

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Also got this in the mail today, going to work on it once I put the finishing touches on the indy.

I honestly can't believe the amount of detail on this kit, it packs just as much, if not more detail in a 1/700 kit than is in most 1/350 scale kits. It's better molded and has as much detail as the base Academy Indianapolis kit.

I got a wood deck for it as well as brass barrels to replace the main 5.25 inch guns.

Got a Revell Bf-110, Anyone have any tips?

Anyone know of any good oxide red spray primers?

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>it's a "Academy kit has brittle decals" episode

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party time

>>5822451
>>5822451
Put it together with glue and then paint it

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>>5822517
>TFA
>1/144

>>5822526
>MUH OREEGEENAL TREELOGIE

>>5822525
Ye cheeky cunt

>>5822526
Its also arguably the highest quality falcon made.

Im gonna covert it to Ep 4 though auss fuck TFA

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Not a lot of progress on the btr, painted the final (and this time misty) green coat and some small pieces. Pic related is the one I’m making.
>>5822078
Thats a nice ship, but small as fuck. What happened to the hipper(?) or it was another anon?
>>5822078
Vallejo has one (pvu) and so does AK ("polymer"). Amig has one but its oxide. I only used vajello in grey and black so I think their red primer one should do the trick too.
Some people has troubles with it, while it’s true that it doesn’t dissolve and bind like lacquer based ones (tamiya for example), for me it’s really good and never gave me problem except in a huge piece of PE that peeled off from a scratch; no need to throw it all away just sand the area without fucking the rest and sprayed some Tamiya one.
So the ones I listed should work unless you are a heavy handed tard or accident prone in which case I would recommend Tamiya (comes in grey or white only and in a spray can, which makes it really shitty, or in a really expensive glass bottle of only 40 ml that you need to thin with their lacquer thinner with the yellowish cap) and then vajello or ak red primers as a precoat/shade.

I am still waiting on the Prinz Eugen, it's going to take a few weeks to get it. I thought I would be done with the Indy by now though, but the rigging is taking a long time to do and I'm pretty lazy at doing it all at once.

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>>5822677
Stil rigging? I have this pic of the Indianapolis from the national geographic magazine. Shit quality, the copyright is from bettmann/Getty images in case they have a better one or the original

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>>5822697
I've been using this one actually, since it's from July 1945 right before it was sunk.

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>>5822701
Also here's my progress so far, it's not going to be 100% accurate but I'm doing the best I can based on the pictures I've found. The hardest part is just finding the proper place to connect the two points of each string.

I also finished up the floatplane today, I wish I had a way to replace the molded-on plastic canopy because it looks like ass.

>>5822716
I once used a bit of resin to replace a broken lens. The one that is used to make ice/water (don't remember well because they gave it to me to repair my piece and then returned but I think it was vajello) maybe you could form a little drop to make a canopy. But it would be a mess and maybe too much work to do a small detail

>>5821866

I assume this is what you were looking for:
http://www.fantasy-in.de/heer46-b4-howitzer-1-56/shop/shop1prodview_iHEERP20.html

>>5822856
Huh, kind of. Now to find a UK stockist...

>>5821905
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c

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>>5820902
I'm thinking about doing the premium Tamiya 1/350 Yamato, anyone tried one of these? I'm also thinking about the wood deck upgrade kit for it. If anyone here has done one of those add-on's, what was it like?

>>5823024
Unless you actually know what you're doing, please don't ruin such an expensive kit.

>>5823069
Albeit it was a simpler model, I have done their WWII 1/350 Missouri. First try on such a model sot it was a bit rough when I finished. Also getting a real station ready to build it since I lost a couple of parts from the Missouri model where I used to build models.

>>5823121
Just build a 1/700 Yamato. There's no sense in buying an ultra-expensive kit like that if you're not capable of doing it justice. There are plenty of well-detailed 1/700 kits out there of the Yamato, Fujimi makes one, Hasegawa, Tamiya... etc. In 1/700 it's still a very large model too, probably around the size of a 1/350 Cruiser.

https://www.scalemates.com/topics/topic.php?id=558

>>5823134
>"ultra-expensive"

Not so bad on price if you buy off Amazon.

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>>5822980
Thanks For your tips?

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So I need to cut a circle inside the bigger circles. I've never done anything like this before and I'm not sure how to approach this. What tools/techniques should I use?

>>5823503
Knife

>>5823503
Drill a small hole in the middle, and move up drill bits? Or drill a medium sized nole, use nippers carefully to cut at the plastic until you get close to the edges, then switch to a sharp blade?

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Finally got around to finishing the AFV club Centurion
http://imgur.com/a/unvl3

I really love the suspension on this thing

>>5823503
What is that? A helicopter?

>>5823134
It's his money, so why do you care so much? If he wants to buy that kit then run it over with his car, more power to him.

>>5824046
It's more about being reasonable. Leaving the kit to someone who would make it justice, leaving stock for others and don't throwing away all that plastic just because "I can pay and I do what I want". It's disrepectful to all the people that worked hard to make the kit, and made it as a complex kit for experienced modelers. There are plenty of easier kits to practice first, later he can start that one and it will be more enjoyable and the result more gratifying

Looking at lighting a cockpit with fiber optics. Ive done it before.

I want the lights to be different colors but inly use a single white LED. Could I use small ammounts of cellophane to tint the light?

>>5824467
I guess. You could also tint with clear acrylic the cable or the zones of the led of the color you want, but I think the color quality would be shit. It's something that unless you try you won't know. Slightly related are rgb leds, they only show one color at a time but give flexibility

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First time working with photo etch and I already hate it

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>>5824451

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>>5824530
>weebshit
Who's really autistic here?

>>5824568
you are
shut the fuck up

Academy kits require so much putty i think, i'm starting to hate this hobby.

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>>5824635
Make me, faggot

>>5824682
What kit are you building?

>>5824530
What Miku is this?

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I think I'm mostly done with this T-72B now. Working around the model damage was a pain but I think it's decent now. Right now I need more colors; I have no reds of any kind nor a decent brown

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Green base done. I love this color, the tone and finish are perfect, just like in pics.
On the other thread I posted some refs for heavy tank tiger companies and suggested the 505 to some anon that was planning a diorama. Now about the 505 I always liked how they hold Prussia till the capitulation themselves and their emblem, but their pattern of dunkelgelb and rotbraun stripes doesn't feel right. Does anybody know if all their tigers (I and II) used the same colors? All the refs I find are with that ugly pattern and this winter I wanna build the new takom king tiger, they offer a starndar one and the 505 special edition and I'm not sure what to pick.
>>5824635
He's right tho
>>5824494
Just keep going, practice makes perfection. But if it was your first time a ship it's quite heavy to do, maybe a cheap afv woth some aftermarket would been better

>>5824741
What he said about PE. Working with 1/350 PE is a bit harder than 1/72 or 1/35.

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Tomorrow i will start paint
Fuck, i forgot, that 4chan has 300 posts for bumplimit. Again

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My friends says, that it's gasenwagen

>>5824757
Wow, as always that tiny detail work is awesome, but that's a halberd on the side or what?

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>>5824765

>>5824768
Can't wait to see that thing painted.

>gasenwagen

Its either "Gaswagen" or "Vergasungswagen". Just sayin

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>>5824772
Jews, please, go to this door. Its shower, kekeke.

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>>5824778
I dont like paint. But i must make this.
I font remember, i post this truck?

>>5824787
I think you posted it with that T-80 (or T-72?) tank on its back like on the meme pic.

At that scale a basic basecoat and a brown/black wash will look good already, then some slight weathering like with a sponge at some edges and a very light drybrush in sand/dust color and you are good to go.

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>>5824767
It's gaff (like boathook, i dont know good translation, lol)
>>5824778
> Gaswagen
Ok, i'll know. Gazenwagen is just a russian pronunciation.
Also, is it you build btr-80?

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>>5824793
Yes exactly. On this truck , I did a wash , rubbing faces graphite, dust by pigments and lightens the base color on the raised parts.
Also that was t-54 on meme-pic
Somemore memes.

>>5824741
I hope you're able to cover the texture of the primer coats with pigments, because right now that's just ugly.
Looks good apart from that though.

>>5824903

Not him.

But armpured vehicles tend to have a pretty rough texture anyway, especially when you consider how often they're repainted (and very rarely, if ever, stripped back).

>>5824911
You know, I was thinking that, and it'd probably look good at a larger scale. At 1/35 though, the size of the texture due to the consistency of the paint is more than likely not going to look good when done, unless it's concealed by upper coats and pigments.

A quick question.

I have a Mr softer that was used last time like 2 years ago, and it worked great, wrinkling and twitching were made and decals blended it. Haven't touched it since.

I'm Using it now and I barely see any result. No twitching and wrinkling to the decals even after applying 3 coats.
Happens with Academy decals(but that was an AFV so it was applied on a smooth surface so its hard to tell) and now with airfix decals that just wont 'melt' into the panel lines.

Anyone ever encounter that? Its annoying as shit, bottle is practically full. Is the solution reached its life expectancy?

>>5824915

I think a matte coat might be able to hide it a little maybe. And it might 'fill' a little with the gloss coats beforehand. He could always wait for it to harden and attach it with some 800 or 12,000 grit micromesh (used wet) to smooth the surface out.

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>>5823514
>>5823576
>>5824036
I used a drill and got alright results. I needed to make wheel wells

>>5824689
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/107353-academy-1671-curtiss-p-40e-warhawk - from 1999.

>>5825229
That's a really old kit, from the late 1980s to be specific, just reboxed. Modern Academy kits are well engineered and decent quality in my experience, especially their AFVs.

>>5825235
it was first produced in 1999.

>>5821154
that red looks awful anon

>>5824682
Academy kits are trash

>>5825415
what academy kits have you built and who do you recommend?

>>5825415
>>5825475
This guy is wrong, modern Academy kits are perfectly fine and of good quality. Their modern AFV kits are excellent, for example their new M1A2 kit, or their Panzer 35(t) kit. Their Hetzer is basically quivalent to Tamiya's kit. Their Merkava kits are also really good. They have a really nice new T-34/85 kit that is one of the better ones on the market.

Theri F4 Phantom II kit is a good base kit, Eduard's versions are based on it.

They have also started making some nice 1/350 ship kits recently, I built their Indianapolis and even the base kit itself, while not super-detailed, was well molded and fit together just fine without any flash or anything. They also have a really nice HMS Warspite kit, and their Grag Spee is good as well.

I wouldn't consider them top of the line kits by any means, but they are fine and pretty cheap compared to other manufacturers.

So uh, this might be the wrong place to ask, but I've been building gunpla and miniature game models for ages but I wanna do some serious scale modelling. I'm really into naval military history (WW1/WW2) and I'd like to build some U-Boats. Where should I start for naval stuff? Wood kits or plastic or?

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>>5820902
Anyone know where I can find one of the caps for this wheel? I seem to have lost it when I moved.

>>5825653
Hobby Boss makes some reasonable U-boats, and they're dirt cheap.

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Are US open top vehicles the coziest vehicles or what?

>>5825512
thanks, bruh. what about the latest from zvezda? how do they compare with academy, tamiya?

their latest t-90 in 1/72 is flawless: i had to use putty literally in 3 places that are barely visible. but pain in the ass because it has 205 TINY parts.

>>5824741
>>5824750
I'm managing. The only thing that's currently fucked me up is the handle on the deck guns. The stuffs about 0.1mm in diameter

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Hello toyfags first time posting here.

So I used to do models and I am obviously pretty amateur and I started this Su-27 a super LONG time. I can't find the decals for it anywhere. Is there a way to acquire them? It is a 1/72 Hasagawa and it's supposed to be a Ukrainian Digital theme, but I would have no issues redoing it into a Russian Su-27 because I like them more anyway.

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Took a closer look at the Flyhawk Naiad kit. My fucking god, the details on this kit are insane considering the scale.

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What kind of black do I need for an Astute Class submarine? From pic related, I reckon its a heavily thinned satin black.

The bottom of the submarine is just a generic bright red, its the same with the Ohios and Los Angeleses.

>>5826146
The lighting in that picture is too strong for someone to get an accurate guess on what color it is.

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>>5824568
He's got you there

>>5824846
Creative?

Since noone replied to my Flanker post is this what I need/does it look good? Also should I paint over the current paint or should I remove it somehow if I want to change it?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Linden-Hill-Decals-1-72-FLANKERS-ON-PATROL-SUKHOI-Su-27-Fighters-/361202822693?hash=item54195dae25:g:gvYAAOSwmrlUzClL

>>5825315
The color is actually called International Orange. Didn't have an airbrush for that although I should have. For what ever reason, even with two separate brands of that color, Int Orange seems to be a really sticky color to brush with. I took the pattern I painted it in from the King Raptor for the Air Force General in C&C Generals.

>>5825512
I have to agree to a point with this. In terms of the quality of the parts Academy kits a great. They fall short on the decals though. Have an Academy SU-27 and F-14 and the decals on those just don't stay even with bonding agent.

>>5825512
>They have a really nice new T-34/85 kit that is one of the better ones on the market.
>overdone (sloppy) cast detail
>poorly fiiting parts
>generally inaccurate
It's one of the worst modern kits ever released, buy AFV Club for a decent modern T-34 kit.

>>5825695
Argg just take it as battle damage

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"Gaswagen", T-72 and BTR-80 are paint by primer.
Tent. Why? I dont know, lol

For everyone who's interested,
Dersockelshop.de has 10% off everything this weekend when ordering for 50€ or above (you get free shipping in Germany too)

>>5825722
>open top
>cozy
Ha, haha, ha

>>5825695
have a go at making one yourself from left over sprue.

you can round the end off by holding near a flame.

>tfw can't decide between two near-identical kits
help :(
KV-1 big turret, or KV-2? I literally can't decide.
Both Hobbyboss, 84816 and 84815.

>>5826697
Buy both, easy solution.

>>5826701
I don't need both though, and I'm trying to cut back on buying loads of kits...

>>5826085
try to look for them under your sofa or ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsu-27+1%2F72+decals.TRS0&_nkw=su-27+1%2F72+decals&_sacat=0

>>5826356
>the decals on those just don't stay even with bonding agent.
acetone or lacquer thinner.

>>5826704
Alright I bought the sheet I linked last night, going to go with a Russian flanker.

Do i paint over the old paint or is there a good way to remove it?

>>5826750
Old paint can always be painted over. Just remember to keep your coats thin.

>>5826750
if you used enamel paint then rub odorless mineral spirits.

>>5826356
>>5826710
>use acetone or white spirits
>my second name is Danger
Just use varnish as a "medium"/fixer
>>5826750
Ak makes a paint remover for acrylics, but you can sand carefully and paint on top

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>>5826574
Yeah! Just imagine in a warm summer day in France or Italy. If it rains just throw a tarp up!
>>5826657
Hey that's a great idea, thanks anon! Might not be perfect but it'll plug that jarring hole.

>>5826806
it's enamel, should I just sand?

>>5826821
Yeah, or rub white spirits. Be careful because rubbing can destroy the primer or damage the model but that shouldn't be a problem unless you are really brutish

Newfag from /tg/ here.
Is there any semi-standard ranking scheme for model difficulties?

If we're talking a 1-10 scale, I don't think I want a little snap-together 8 year old's model (because I'm a big boy!) but on the other hand, I figure if I go out and drop $120 on a 1/355 Enterprise model, it'll be a waste because my layman ass can't actually manage something like that.

What's a good thing to start with? Just try a P-51 D model recommended by the site in the sticky?

>>5826825
>If we're talking a 1-10 scale,
>don't use 1-10 scale
I'm half asleep.
I don't want a 1, 2, and maybe not a 3, but I'm pretty sure I can't handle a 6, maybe not a 5 either. But I haven't done models since I was 8, and simple enough ones then, so what do I know?

>>5826830
the problem with a 1-10 scale is that everyone's 10 is different

>>5826834
True, but I figure I'm staying the hell away from that, so it might work.
But hey, any kind of 'beginner' 'medium' 'advanced' scale would probably work I guess. Just want to find a nice .4

>>5826830
Well as >>5826834 said a scale is a bit difficult to establish, although revell has a 1 to 5 scale in their own kits. You mentioned an enterprise and a mustang so you wanna do flying things? Or afvs? O ships? Also do you have all the infrastructure needed?

>>5826841
Planes and ships are probably what I'm big on, but mostly just keen on trying it again to see if it's as fun as I remember. Practically, if I somehow git really gud at this, I might try moving on to age of sail ships, but the idea of riggings terrify me.

Zero infrastructure, but I figured paintbrushes, exacto knives and sanders were roughly the same for any kind of model, and I was figuring I could probably stock up with something along those lines for ~$30.

>>5826846
Well and a cutting pad, putty, primer, paints, brushes, thinners and varnish (and more if you want panel liners, pigments, etc). The knife and clippers can be expesive, but what's going to eat a chunk is the glue and paints as you can't skimp on that. With paints and stuff it will probably end costing 100~. As for kits I'm more of afvs but maybe an old tamiya 1:72 plane is the best to start, the ones that cost 30 something in sales or like that.

>>5826825

Revell and Airfix both have a difficulty scale on their boxes.

If you're wanting something cheap with low parts count you could look at some of the Hobby Boss easy kits most (though not all, as my Ju 88 with a gondola that's three scale feet too far aft will attest to) are fairly accurate with low parts count and a couple of decal options. The spitfire's shit though, so miss that one out.

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Satin coat is on, exhaust system and some tools are in place. The top broke off the right one, was a hassle to fix but w/e.
Next step is satin coat on the top hatches as well as dust and dirt.

>>5826222
Ive got the exact same one and mine looks like crap because it was one of my first models.

Brush painting is sofucking frustating. I use vallejos and for some reason no matter what I do the paint is far too runny for brush painting. Ive primed my plastic, air brushed a base coat, but can never get a smooth layer from the brush.

Luckily its for a 1/144 cockpit but still

>>5827448
shake up the bottle for 30 secs before applying

>>5827448
On another note: am I the only person who has a problem with tamiya acrylics? It seems like no matter how much I tighten the bottles they dry out in a week or so after opening them. Really frustrating.

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Putting the final touches on the rigging today. I had to take off the brass 5" barrels and re-paint them as in photos I noticed the rear part of the barrel was either painted black, or was a dark metal color (from the barrel's recoil into the turret?). I did this by simply using a metal oxidizer on the barrel (blacken it) and then masking off the dark part and painting the rest. I also added little straps onto the life rafts on the turret that I noticed in some photographs. I just have a small bit of rigging left to do on the rear mast.

I also turned around the SK radar on the aft mast to the correct position (Pontos instructions had it wrong). Also put in some scratch built parts to add to details that I noticed on some photographs here and there.

I'm waiting on some weathering materials to come in through the mail, once I get them I'm going to re-gloss coat the hull and add some more salt streaks and other weathering, maybe a filter over the gray too if I like how it looks on a test piece.

>>5827464
I've never had any problems, and I have a fuck-ton of Tamiya paint. Are you leaving the bottles open, uncapped for long periods of time or something? Are you mixing thinner into the bottles themselves?

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Been building on and off for about a year and a half now, still haven't invested in an airbrush, but am thinking I should bite the bullet.

What does /smg/ think of the chinese shit that's on Amazon? I don't plan on getting fancy, just want something that's usable and won't break instantly. They seem to have decent reviews although I know you can't go solely off them. I'm definitely not spending £800 on a branded airbrush and compressor, etc., though.

I'd brush paint it but I honestly don't trust myself not to make a splodgy mess with large areas where you'd be able to tell.

Also, what's the deal with revell's plasto? I bought some to use as a gap filler but when I went to use it the solvent and the putty seems to have seperated entirely, and overall it's just a paint to try and use when you have to manually mix it back together again and then try and apply it to the model before it hardens (noticed it also melts the plastic if you apply too much, probably the solvent that it uses to adhere to it melting it in a similar way to the glues)

Tempted to get another brand because I just don't use it anymore it's that painful.

Also, does /smg/ have any tips on storing these? They're too large once assembled to fit back into the boxes, ships especially with their masts and antennas, and I've ran out of drawer space.

>>5827466
That looks comfy as fuck, mate. I've only built a couple of cheap ships myself, but they're definitely enjoyable (both times I've lost a tiny part, though, last one I built was HMS Kelly and I lost one of the tiny columns they use to tie the ship to the dock, couldn't find it in my carpet. Was about 1mm tall)

They've just been cheap Revell I found dirt cheap on Amazon (1/700 scale, like £5 each including shipping. All the models I've built so far have been dirt cheap, under £12 or so).

>>5827506
Who spends that much on an airbrush? I have a really nice airbrush and I only paid $250 for it. You don't need a shitty over-priced Custom Micron to airbrush properly, get something like an Iwata Eclipse, or a Badger 105, RK-1 Renegade, etc. Trust me, I bought one of those shitty chinese airbrushes (I think it was Master Airbrush) and it didn't last long until I realized how shitty it was. Got myself a Badger and never looked back. I've read good things about Grex airbrushes as well, but they're kinda expensive.

Compressor doesn't need to be the most expensive one either, you can get cheaper hardware store compressors with a big tank and just buy a converter thing to fit the right size airbrush hose.

As far as your question on gap fillers, they make CA-glue gap filler which works pretty well, other alternatives include Milliput, a 2-part epoxy putty which can be cleaned up with water, or Plastic Perfect putty, another water-clean up putty in a tube. The best part about these putties is that they won't ruin your plastic since they are water based, but they still dry strong and you won't even need to sand down smaller gaps, just wipe them down with a damp piece of paper towel until its in the crack alone.

Classic Tamiya putty works well for larger gaps and you can thin it with a lacquer thinner.

>>5827519
I've mostly built 1/350 so far, but I'm starting to move into smaller scales because Flyhawk's 1/700 kits are just so well done and appealing.

>>5827486
Neither

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>>5827506
Just get the harbor frieght one. Works just fine. Pic related.

>>5827524
>who spends that much for an airbrush
>admits to paying $250 for his
>goes on to defend paying ridiculous prices for branded ones, exactly what anon said he wouldn't do

heh

>>5827532
Is the harbor freight one comparable to the shit I can find on Amazon? Living in the UK so I don't have any Horrible Frights to go to.

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>>5827537
Airbrushes are expensive, and quality definitely matters and you are going to pay more for an expensive airbrush. I'm using pic related, it's a Harder and Steenbeck Infinity CR+. I used to use a Badger RK-1 Chrome which I still have and is still an excellent airbrush, but the CR+ is much better at finer details. Much easier to clean as well, and you can just tell the parts and engineering are very high quality compared to other airbrushes I've used.

But the guy asking doesn't even need something like that, I recommend him getting something like the Iwata Eclipse because it's an excellent mid-high range airbrush and it's ~$150. Iwata makes their own compressor too, which is supposed to be a nice one, but it's expensive.


>>5827544
This is what I would recommend. Gravity fed is better than siphon fed for models in my opinion.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Iwata-IW-ECL-CS-Eclipse-CS-Airbrush/dp/B001I17JV8/

Compressor:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Iwata-Studio-Smart-Jet-Compressor/dp/B00150UQDA/

No where near the $800 you were talking about. You could always get a cheaper compressor, but make sure you get one with a tank AND a moisture trap / filter.

>>5827564
>guy says he just wants something dirt cheap that he can airbrush a couple of models with to see if he likes airbrushing
>airbrush autist comes barging in saying he needs a high end branded airbrush to do the above.
>nowhere near the $800 you were talking about
>links an airbrush and compressor combo that costs over $600

I say again; heh.

>>5824568
>Who's really autistic here?
I'd say you are, chief.
I mean, you're the one having a fit because somebody who "doesn't have the skills to do a kit justice" is thinking of buying one.
And you obviously feel some discomfort from seeing a picture of "weebshit".
So yeah. Maybe you need to spend some time in your hugbox.

>>5827571
If you buy a shitty airbrush you are essentially throwing money away on some cheap crap that won't perform well and won't last long because of poor quality parts.

As I said he doesn't need to spend the amount on the compressor I linked, there are cheaper ones like this, but of lower quality:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/FoxHunter-KMS-Airbrush-Compressor-Airbrushes/dp/B004XP7K9W/

And a cheaper airbrush, a higher quality Chinese one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neo-Iwata-gravity-feed-airbrush/dp/B006MTQXPE/

What advice have you offered the guy aside from greentexting? At least I'm trying to help the guy out.

>>5827584
You're advice is horrendous.

In this post, in a long string of awful posts, you recommend he buy exactly what he was asking about, but then also recommend some overpriced branded airbrush on top of it.

He should just buy the cheap compressor/brush chinkshit bundle, see if he likes it the process of airbrushing (doesn't matter if it's chinkshit or overpriced japshit, you're still doing the same motions and still spending 80% of your time cleaning), and if he does, upgrade to a better airbrush and then a better compressor.

Rather than spend $600 on something he might hate using after the first session and be $600 in the red, he could just be $90.

>>5827584

>Advising a NEO ever

No. Just...no. For a few quid more he could get an H&S Ultra. Which is a much better choice and, internally, no different from the rest of the H&S line.

Also, unlike the NEO it's not a shitty brush made in China with a well known brand plastered on it. It's good quality German engineering. Parts are cheaper too.

>>5824467
In case anyone wants to know, I just realized something. You can paint the end of the FO that is bundled to the LED and the colors will transfer down the fiber. Pretty cool effect actually.

>>5827564
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-Tankless-Airbrush-Compressor-1-5HP-/331639639012?hash=item4d37434be4:g:WssAAOSwWnFWCWgc

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Airbrush-Compressor-with-Tank-1-5HP-/331858265843?hash=item4d444b46f3:g:wdYAAOSwZetXO0pL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Twin-Piston-Airbrush-Compressor-Tank-1-3-HP-/271788952594?hash=item3f47e24c12

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Hobby-Detail-Airbrush-Gun-/331490939799?hash=item4d2e665397

and if you're taking a tankless compressor get also a 10-foot hose.

>>5826415
Yea should drill in a 20 - 40 mm shell semi pen

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>>5827583
>I-I'm not autistic!

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>>5827801
>H&S parts
>cheap

>>5828335

The guy's in the UK. Have you seen how much it is to replace parts like the nozzle of the NEO in the UK? A needle and nozzle set is almost as much as the entire brush. And you're guaranteed to break the fucking thing as it's made of smoke and dust.

>>5828583
H&S nozzle costs more than a Badger needle nozzle set

>>5828335
They are though.
A needle replacement only costs about 8-9€ here in Germany.
Source: Have the Evolution Silver

>>5828619

Not in Europe it doesn't.

>>5828619
bought a new H&S Evolution 0.4mm nozzle about 2 weeks ago, cost €17,75 in the Netherlands.
So not exactly €8-9, but not that bad.

>>5828660
Bought Badger 105 needle nozzle set for £12 in the UK

>>5828971
*£10

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Can we just post models and shit without arguing?

>>5829006

Wouldn't be 4chan then would it?

It would be one of those 'hugboxes' that most in these threads seem deathly afraid of.

Anyone have a good Hotchkiss H39 kit? Only saw one kit from some brand I never heard of.

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>>5825695
It would bother me a lot more that both of the protective covers on the driver's hatch are closed.

>>5829134
You see Ivan, when drive tank like me, you can go faster for not seeing enemy.

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Hi there guys, here's my last build model - Eduard's 1/144 scale Mig-21MF in experimental stealth camo, Czech Air Force, in late 90s, I might build and post more of these in the future and perhaps even more of my small scale planes.

i acme buckets:

https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=11999&p=albums&album=29559

>>5820975
I love it

My favorite part is all of it

>>5823447
Just keep it as is

Loving the grey scale

>>5829390
>>5829380
Lol at this guy

>>5829282(You)
>>5829380(You)
>>5829390(You)

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Why are AMT kits so terrible? I've made three of their kits so far, and so far three of them have either had fitment issues or decal issues, or both. This contestant number three, a 1:2500 NCC 1701-D. The decals don't even properly fit the saucer, and the hull is crooked by a few noticeable degrees. Do yourself a favor and don't buy AMT kits.

>>5829476
To be fair, that's a fucking awful surface for a decal regardless. Something like that should be airbrushed on with made-to-fit masks supplied in the kit, with decals for the extremely fine detail.

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I am back and almost done my tiger

>>5829546
I can't see anything, turn on the light

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>>5829357
how did he get such good coverage and paint saturation but still have the effect of preshading? or did he postshade/postlighten?

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>>5829117
Anyone???

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>>5829567

>>5829593
>>5829546
have a few points for effort

>>5829593
Shit excuse me

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>>5829600

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>>5829607
Time for me to do it suicide

>>5820902
I want to build an M4 with full interior. Should I go early war or late war? I have only built late war vehicles.

>>5829618
Late War if you want to do Dioramas

>>5829546
Seriously looked like you sculpted it out of mud

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>>5829575
this photo shows it better.

>>5829866
Looks like preshading and a panel wash too

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Just finished a 1/48 scale Mosquito Bomber.

Dumping pics

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>>5829964

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>>5829969

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>>5829970

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>>5829977

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>>5829984

guys, can you sand "buckled" paint?

>>5829970
Those figures are 10/10

>>5829924
this is just before washing, only a gloss coat has been applied.

>>5829992
Thanks, I just recently started painting pilots and soldiers. I just think the planes look better with them

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made this a couple of years ago

>>5830018
I gotta say the plane looks like shit though. That canopy and those seams and those bombs are fucking rough

>>5830028
Your decals look amazing. I can never get them to look natty

Your chipping on the tail is great too

>>5829984>>5829964
>>5829969
>>5829970
>>5829977
>>5829982
>>5829988

You need to mask your canopy a little better, use something like Tamiya masking tape and use an x-acto knife to cut small strips, mask the edges and then fill in the center with tape.

Also, you need to putty and use filler, I can see a lot of seam lines throughout the kit, otherwise it looks alright, but those are glaring flaws you can easily fix next time you build something. At least your paint work looks alright, are you hand-painting?

>>5829575

I can tell he used a good primer, and painted each camo color individually.

I can also see some post shading on some panel centers. The coverage is possible due the primer and the pre shading is very very subtle, possibly enhanced because of the camera flash.

Also gloss coats can bring it out even more.

>>5829924

Base coat
Panel Shading
Highlight
Second Highlight

He explains it in this thread:

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235006369-two-148-portuguese-alphajet-150-step-by-step-photos/

>>5829991

Yes. Well, sort of. If you use something like 8000 to 12000 grit micromesh (used wet) and do it carefully you can normally smooth it down.

Just make sure it's fully hardened.

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>>5829117
Hello?

>>5830710
Stop sperging around and posting image crap that has no relation with scale models
Here:
https://www.scalemates.com/search-solr.php?fkSECTION%5B%5D=All&q=Hotchkiss+H+35%2F39+H39
This site (abd fucking Google) are your friends

Does anyone else here like reading the really shitty reviews for model kits on amazon?
I eat the shit up when the people are too retarded to realize assembly and painting is required and mention it in the review.

>>5829984
I like the seams and the paint on the glass the best

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>>5830811

>>5830811
Link us a good one then

>>5830939
What kit was that for?

>>5830941
>>5830811
yes, links, please.

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>>5830941
>>5830996
Pretty much any kit with reviews that are 1 star have the same shit.
https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Models-German-Infantry-Weapons/product-reviews/B000QDHMZW/ref=cm_cr_dp_qt_hist_one?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&showViewpoints=0

>>5830984
some tamiya 1/48 russian soldiers

>>5831029
Jesus christ, are people stupid or som-
...Yeah, actually. I'm not surprised.

>>5831029
Holy shit

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>>5831029
>I have to share the same planet with these morons

>>5830811
Not for Armor but occasionally I read some of the gundam ones.

>I bought this thinking it was an action figure but I have to build it myself, WTF!?
>Please help!I didn't realize the instructions were in Asian.
>I built it and its got these pointy bits everywhere from when I clipped the parts out, will not be buying another.

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Wip:platoon ready, first korobochka in process

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Apologies for the crappy photos, but here's my latest build. Rubicon T-34/85, 1/56 scale.

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>>5831229

>>5831229
>>5831232
'Mirin your T-34 certainly better than what I do.

>>5831234
Thanks! There's a few spots I'm unhappy with, specifically pooled pigment on the tyres and some damaged varnish where I used a pencil for bare metal, but they're not too noticeable and it's a gaming piece, so I don't mind.

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Recent acquisitions. Going to try to enhance the weathering on the Indianapolis. I'm finished with the rigging as well, I think it's mostly accurate, but even if its not I still think it looks alright.

>>5831232
>>5831229
Looks really good, especially considering the kit looks pretty shitty (and very strange scale?). Weathering is good as well.

>>5831326
1/56 translates to 28mm. The kits aren't bad, but they suffer from poor track details.

>>5831229
Looks really good anon

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Wew those posts were awkward to read, what the fuck happened here
Finally I can resume the work on the btr, now a tamiya xf19 Sky grey stripe pattern and painting done. I really like it in plain green right now, and I loathe monochrome afvs, weird. Also I finally decided and ordered an amusing hobby Lowe as some anon suggested along some new things I wanna try and tools, I can't believe I'm planning to postpone the chieftain again...
>>5829006
So >>5824483 worked? How's the color light quality?
>>5824953
I used micro sol/set in my last two builds and it was sitting on a box for 8 years and worked flawlessly, think about trying it next time
>>5831216
Excellent job, what is a korobochka
>>5831321
You will see that these things ease the weathing process a lot. Never saw a naval line tho. I guess with the recent books and stuff they found a new market. Kinda curious about the salt streaks effect.

>>5829546
>>5829610
Did you paint it with modeling clay..?

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Finally resumed work on my 1/700 Yamato thanks to you; Indianapolis Guy.

>>5831477
I'm flattered, What kit is that? I spot a Fujimi box in the background?

Looks nice though, you doing a full photo etch / brass treatment?

I've was working on the 1/700 HMS Naiad I bought but I've paused that to finish up the weathering on the Indy. Currently gloss-coating it again, then going to wait overnight for it to cure so I can try out some of these AK weathering grimes / washes.

>>5831029
Kek, those last three are all obvious parents/kids. Makes me glad my parents were intelligent enough to read a product description before buying me something I thought I really wanted

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>>5830811
Yeah lol.

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>>5831983
>>5830811

>>5831368
Korobochka (translated as a small box) is the slang name for armored vehicles in the Russian army.So called all armored vehicles - tanks, armored personnel carriers, infantry fighting vehicles.
Also korobochka is the Russian meme - "small box, start burying this guys" (translation by the google translate, but you can google video at youtube - "кopoбoчкa хopoни peбят") - a fragment of the film "purgatory" in which the russian T-80UD rolls tracks the corpses of russian soldiers, so that they are not mutilated by Chechen rebels

Will Purple Power strip Alclad?

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Stripes done, need to work a bit more on the motor area. I started with blue tack and a neat and tidy paint job but looked too good for what I remembered from the photos, then checked the reference pictures and other Soviet afvs in Afghanistan and they where painted extremely rough, with soft edges and faded areas. It was weird to paint "badly", it's more difficult than masking as the airbrush makes an off scale soft edge that you need to correct all the time. I'm thinking of buying a new airbrush for details as the patriot it's too big for freehand patterns.
>>5832046
That's quite interesting but Jesus Christ
>Also korobochka is the Russian meme - "small box, start burying this guys"
>in which the russian T-80UD rolls tracks the corpses of russian soldiers, so that they are not mutilated by Chechen rebels
>a meme
That's an artistic liberty or based on actual events?

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>>5832761
>>5832046
Also what's written here? I wanna put them in a t-55 but they are from a maz 537 truck, so maybe the slogan doesn't make sense on a fighting vehicle

>>5832778
in the name of Maruf Ismailov, and the right inscription says Technical (short)circuit.

>>5832748
only the top layers.

>>5832839
So the metallic and black base but not the primer?

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>>5832778
first - the name of Muraf Ismailov (i don't know who is it) - such labels are often made during the Second World War (pic related - the name of the hero of the Soviet Union Mametova Manshuk)
second - technical fault (or technical curcuit, i think that is associated with the electrical wiring) - Tech inscription, not fighting

>>5832761
>That's an artistic liberty or based on actual events
It's artistic liberty, but real facts of First Battle of Grozny are very funny too
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Grozny_(1994-95)
I'm not sure that the same version of russian and english wiki (there is a tendency to belittle the atrocities of the Chechen and exaggerate the atrocities of the federal forces), but this batlle was EPIC FAIL (despite the fact that the city took control of the federal forces) with over 9000 guro and nationwide Ffruustration.

>>5832896
>Ahmetova
fix

>>5832828
Nice, thanks. For curiosity, "technical short circuit" as in broken down?

>>5832896
Wow, thanks. So the first one would be acceptable in an afv.
About the Grozny battles I read some fucked up things, also saw a vid of a Russian trooper surving a headshot thanks to the sphere (?) helmet. Kinda interesting conflict but there isn't a lot of info to work with models, shame

>>5832901
forget what i said, i just googled it. тeхничecкoe зaмыкaниe кoлoнны/бaтaльoнa - technical maintenance. it's basically a squad that assists broken vehicles in a column. either tows them or repairs in the field. not something you would put on fighting vehicle.

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In case someone is interested in painting tires and/or rubber this is how looks amig-033 "rubbers & tires" like. Right now looks like a dirty tire, like slightly dusty, but in my finger is a mate really dark grey with subtle brown shades. I guess that's how it will look like once it dries up on the tires. Also it works as basic a pre dusting which is nice
>>5832925
Makes sense as the truck is fucking huge but without cargo bay

>>5831384
>>5829647
how fix

>>5833020
O shit just noticed what you mean, I put on my Zimmerit way too because I was trying to make lines with a razor

>>5832986
Hey, that's pretty nice looking. I've been wondering how I'll do the tyres when I get around to painting my BTR.

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Working on the streaking. The "Salt Streaks" grime is merely a light grey / white streaking grime, I think once I use a flat coat it should look good though.

>>5833128
Sweet. If there's one thing I like, it's well executed rust streaks on ships. Kudos for not going overboard (pun definitely intended).

>>5833128
I think it looks fantastic as usual

New thread when?

>>5833724
when we reach the limit you stupid fuckhead

>>5833128
The effect you achieved on the red is fantastic.

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How would you go about making this sort of rain streaked graffiti? Or making it look like it's been really hastily painted on.

>>5834035
quickly with an all time high haste

>>5834035
dot filter

>>5834035
Paint it and then streak over it

>>5834123
why would it take more effort to paint something shitty?

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First model in years. I am so incredibly not ready for this.

Is it best to paint before assembly out after? Is priming advised? (Tended to prime after assembling my warhams way back when.)

>>5834232
>Revell America
Bad luck dude

>Is it best to paint before assembly out after?
Paint sub-assemblies that will before you seal those sections when you put the fuselage together (Cockpit and wheel wells)

>Is priming advised?
Yes

Cut pieces off the sprue before you paint
Good luck :^)

>>5834272
Revell America is subpar?

Also, >priming
Will any ol' can of spray-primer do?

>>5834289
Lacquer primer should be ok. Modelling primers are finer and more designed for retaining the smaller details present on models.

>>5834298
So, are we talking something like this https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Military-Flat-Enamel-Paint/dp/B0006MZOS0/ ?


Likewise, is https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Hobby-Supplies-Paint-Kit/dp/B0006O5F3W a gimmick, or a fairly reasonable-looking kit for what I need?

>>5834323
Christ, I'm a retard and though the paint kit there included a primer. My bad.
I assume I don't want car primer, which was the first thing that showed up on a 'lacquer primer' search.

I also assume that Testors is maybe a bit layman-tier, but probably model-hobbyist material.
https://www.amazon.com/Humbrol-Acrylic-Spray-Shade-Paint/dp/B001JJRDFQ/r

>>5834326
Humbrol Acrylic spray primer works ok if you know how to use a rattle can, however the reason I recommend using lacquer primer is acrylic primer is only really good at unifying the colours on the model and helping adhesion. It wont really aid the longevity of the paint but unless you plan to keep it 10+ years (which, lets face it, is pretty unlikely) it shouldnt matter.

One thing to note about sprayed paint/primer is that you will have to mask off the areas which shouldnt be covered, so wheel wells and canopies. That's an extra step which you might need to account for.

>>5834126
Because painting shitty=/=looking shitty

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>>5831989
I'm wheezing right now

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My M10 I'm working on. I noticed that the green I painted doesn't quite look right, in fact it may be closer to Soviet olive drab.
Is this coat of paint save able with color modulation and washes to make it look like a more faded US olive drab or am I better removing the decals and making it a lend lease Soviet vehicle? The idea was that it would be a slightly faded paint like tanks in theater but this is a deeper green than desired.

Also the lighting is a little off in this photo so the green looks even more off.

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>>5834860
Another pic. I'm not at home at the moment so I can't take any more.

>>5834289
Get tamiya spray primer

>>5834860
Definitely saveable. Some modulation will do you just fine

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Hay guize rate my scale modol

>>5834879
It's almost like that guy only has four colors and Parkinson's.

>>5834879
Lol holy shit

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I've dug out some old models of experimental/paper WW2 aircraft. Most are semi-conventional aircraft but his one is a flying saucer by Planet Models. Undercoated it earlier.

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>>5835032
Box art, got it second hand years ago, these are usually quite expensive

>>5834863
If that's truer to the green, that's fine. Just dirty it up and modulate it and it'll be fine.

>>5835032
>>5835038
Cool; don't see things like that often.
>>5834879
TigerGuy/10

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>>5835078
This might be a better image I guess the green is just a little deeper than intended.

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A little more progress on the streaking. The port side is completely done and I've started working on the starboard side.

For the upper hull surfaces I did a dot filter, but it was extremely subtle. I'm going to enhance it very slightly by doing some streaking here and there, and some filters using the streaking grime as well, but I'm going to try not to over-do it.

>>5835117
Real or airshit?

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First model I'm going to take on in ages, not sure what kind of paintjob I'm going to give it though. Maybe winter camo.

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>>5835127
Real my dude

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>>5835154
Noice

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I finished that 1/700 Kiso I was working on a few weeks ago. Pro-tip: make sure your CA glue is new before you work with PE railings at this scale. I learned that the hard way.

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>>5835442
Also you need a macro lens for this type of photography

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>>5835154
Why not get a good battle rifle?

>>5835451
They're both pretty comparable m8.
Besides I like the HK slap. I will likely get a FAL by November though.

>>5835166
>Playing shadowrun correctly.jpg

>>5835442
>>5835446
Tiny, nice work anon. My one gripe is that the rigging looks a little too thick, try using some stretchable elastic rigging next time, like this stuff:

http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/

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>Bought a T-72 from my local hobby shop
>Excitedly rip open the bag inside the box
>Find out its missing half the parts
>Hobby shop is run by jews and they're not going to refund me or give me store credit since I opened the inner bagging
>No manufacturer is going to give me half a kit for free
35.75 down the fucking drain
Fuck mom and pop shops I'm going to order from Amazon exclusively now

>>5835550
>Fuck mom and pop shops
They were always ass anon, you should've known better.

>>5835550
>>5835561
You guys must have a shitty local hobby shop. My local one has been around since the 1950s, and the guys that run it are great. They carry all sorts of stuff other hobby shops I've been to just don't carry, like Mr. Hobby stuff, Alclad, AK interactive stuff, etc.

I don't usually buy model kits from them unless they have something I want in stock though, I pretty much only use them for supplies and buy kits / aftermarket stuff online myself.

>>5835550
Thats fucking bullshit

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After a little bit of modulation here is where I am, how am I doing modelers?

>>5835751
I can't tell if it's the lighting or not, but it looks like you have silvering on your decal, did you lay down a gloss coat and use decal softener?

>>5835770
Nah I just suck at decals. I screwed up that part pretty bad. I'll probably strip the decal soon and reapply it more carefully since I don't have a shortage of white stars. With that said though this was pretty difficult to apply due to those welded bolts.

>>5835751
The front end looks very good. Keep going.

M-10 fag here again,
Does anyone have any photos of the M10 being used with a tarp cover to keep rain out of the fighting compartment? I'd imagine thats what those prongs are for but I can't seem to find any reference of this. I want to add a tarp cover for maximum comfiness but won't if its never bin dun befo

>>5835782
Thanks anon, I'll likely make a splash guard out of a popsicle stick to conceal the seam in between the upper and lower halves as well as to conceal the imperfection towards the bottom of the decal.

>>5835774
I don't think it looks bad at all anon, it looks quite good if its one of your first models.

As for decals, the proper thing to do is lay down an overall gloss coat, which can not only be useful for decals, but weathering as well. It basically creates a completely flat surface with no irregularities that the decal can lie flat on, and adhere to better. You can use something like Micro Sol and Micro Set to get your decals to conform to panel lines, raised details, etc. as well.

After you get your decal on completely, its usually wise to seal it once again with more gloss coat. Personally I like many others use Pledge Future, which is an acrylic floor wax that can be used as a varnish.

Definitely get some micro sol or similar decal solvent though, it will help the decal conform much better to those raised bolts.

Also, what kit is that? The new Tamiya tool?

>>5835793
Yeah its the new tamiya tooling of the M-10.
To be quite honest, this is probably like my tenth but only recently have I been studying techniques and have been trying to approve.
Next time for sure I'll have to heed to your instruction, for now though I'll either strip it or obscure it with crew equipment, sandbags that kind of thing.

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Fuck me I didn’t do anything on the btr just because I couldn’t be arsed to go and buy some CA glue for the lamps, oh well.
>>5835788
I'll post some image refs so you can get some inspiration, although they were used mostly in winter. They look improvised but there must be some official pattern issued with the shape of the turret but I’m not quite sure, probably any fitting tarp would do the job.
There are several ways:
Paper tissue wetted with white glue and water
Lead foil
Green putty (I don’t remember the brand but there are several companies, I think its miliput or Tamiya bicomponent)
Also here's a link with a how-to tarps (so you get a base to work on):
http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/making-realistic-tarps/3310

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>>5835842

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>>5835845

>>5835842
Hey thanks for the reference! I was looking for something like this!

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>>5835848
>>5835751
>color modulation
I'm getting blind or we call the different techniques by the same name? I’m not attacking you or your model, but pic related is color modulation on a m10 (there are better examples of the technique but I found one with the m10 that might be more illustrative) and your just looks like you did a wash or dirt

>>5835141
I don't know about the kit itself, meng has done it also but for "starters" it’s too much. But my problem with the leo2 it’s that all look the same, there are 6 nationalities on that box and ALL are gonna be NATO green/brown/black. Except maybe for the spanish one that could be plain green or the greek that had some merdc like pattern. Also not being used in real conflicts leaves a lot to desire in weathering possibilities. So my little piece of advice is to go a bit on the wild side and make a leo2a4 in ww3, just giving some ideas

What kind of mask should I be wearing when airbrushing?
I only spray acrylics at the moment.

>>5835965
For acrylics you shouldn’t worry much (check the paint bottles tho, older vajello not air brush line have stuff that is highly toxic like Cd) but any 3M protection mask against organic volatile compounds (these are cheap and look like doctors ones, there are also the gas mask types) will do the trick with all the stuff you could use in scale modeling. That or a paint booth if you are worried about health/smell

>>5831989
Holy shit it has kit in the title

>>5835980
Adding some advice: don't get the cheapo doctor's mask looking ones. get the ones with dual cartridges on the sides. They're much more comfortable when you wear them for long periods like you will be when modeling.