Customs General

Here's some tips from the previous threads:

Beginners: practice on cheap figures first.

For sculpting on figures: use 2-part epoxy putty like Aves apoxie or fixit.

For tools: try a basic carving/sculpting set like the kind arts & crafts stores have, and calipers for symmetry.
Dental tools have also been said to work well.
Also, using a Dremel is recommended. Minimites (the small $20-25 ones) are fine for starting out, but the battery life is poor. Upgrade to a corded one only if you want to get deeper into customizing. They are useful for stuff outside of the hobby though, so it's a good investment regardless.

For paints: use acrylics. Paint in multiple, thin coats. Brands like Vallejo/P3/Citadel are recommended, because of pigment quality.

Use a sealer when finished to protect your work. There are matte varieties and sealers that give a glossy look. As with painting, use multiple thin coats.

A flex shaft attachment on a Dremel is a godsend and relatively inexpensive. The grinding shield is also pretty useful, but you can improvise one using a cut open soda bottle.

>>5787810
>If you have special needs I can point you in some more specif putties.
It'd be pointless since my country recently stopped getting hardware epoxy for some reason.
I think I can find some of the hobby specialized ones but I don't want to spend too much right now, I'm trying to work on a budget because I might be getting more equipment soon and I want to save for it.
Dremels don't go under 50 dollarideedoos here.

>Basically anything that works for you man, from toothpicks to silicone shapers. As long as the putty doesn't stick you are good.
Guess I'll just give those clay tools I have somewhere a try.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Repostin from end of last thread

Is the chainmail too subtle behind the crotchguard
Thinking binding it too the guard itself but it would lose some natural draping

What's the cheapest epoxy I can use since I only need a small amount for a little project? Aves/fixit are kind of expensive, and I don't need nearly that much.

>>5789183
Disregard that, I suck cocks. I ended up buying some Milliput.

>>5789095
You should get smaller chains.

There are some customs that I've been wanting to make for ages, but I have a problem getting motivated enough to do things like really search for the right materials and things. How do you get motivated to make your customs /toy/?

I got both batches of Spoonflower prints, have to reorder one due to a printing error but otherwise they came out beautifully.

The error was super weird though. The dpi was changed on a reprinted panel for some reason? Like the first printed perfectly, I reordered it as-is, and the reprint is way out of scale so I checked back and the dpi was changed.

Ah well, the fix was under $10, ain't worried. I've already made my money back and then some selling three of the squids to coworkers.

>>5789387
If creativity alone doesn't drive you, you're just going to keep petering out and getting back to an unmotivated state regardless of what others have to say.

>>5789387
I dont really have motivation issues for customs I really want to do. I get really obsessed with them and it becomes all I want to do for the time im working on them.

Sometime I have motivation issues with the more tedious parts of customs so I make sure I do something tedious then something that gets me excited then go back and forth that way till its done.

>>5789673
Just do it. If you want to finish the damn thing just do it. There's no existential crisis to be had here other than what you make of it. In 60 years you'll be dead and no one will give a shit about you. Do you want to make things in the interim? Fucking make them.

File: newfag anon suck big hard ball at samefagging.jpg (106KB, 806x536px) Image search: [Google]

106KB, 806x536px

>Anonymous never forgets

>>5789702
Anonymous forgot the part where I ruined the joke and copped to being the 3rd shelledocean post.

File: Jobber extraordinaire.jpg (40KB, 461x614px) Image search: [Google]

40KB, 461x614px

Posting here if anyone'd like to help out.

Basically I'm going to be getting my hands on an obscure garage kit soon, a Dimension Diver/Daibadi Aphrodite A color resin type. A few other dudes are also interested in having one, but this seems so rare that the one I happened to snag seems to be the last one that could generally be found easily at all.

Basically, what I and those guys would like to do is find a means to recast the models' parts so that everyone can get the model rather than there being just the one. If anyone knows of a service or group that could help, or if you're up for it (hopefully without destroying the base model!), please do help out. Are you taking casting commissions, or do you know someone who does? If so, multiple people may be interested. Wanna make some money?

The model is articulated and uses separately purchased joints. I did ask /tg/ about this as well, the part casting shouldn't be difficult for those experienced.

>>5783742

File: 0200500086169.jpg (142KB, 480x640px) Image search: [Google]

142KB, 480x640px

Instructions/bits

>>5789722
Do you understand that quality molds are going to cost you hundreds of dollars?

>>5789819
I don't think anon is looking for perfect replicas, just something that anons can work with so that more people can enjoy the kit.

Anyone can make something decent out of a poor recast with a little bit of work and putty.

>>5789819
I can deal with that.

>>5789722
There's barely any learning curve to Smooth-On's casting stuff, just do it yourself. If you just try on a small part first, like say a forearm, you'll fail maybe 3 times before you learn all of the important in's and out's. That's one weekend afternoon.

>>5789821
For something as small as that you don't want to use putty. You'll probably want to use a high quality silicone that's degas and maybe cured under pressure, which could damage the model if it's hollow/flimsy like, say, model kits tend to be.

>>5788998
>Dremels don't go under 50 dollarideedoos here.
That price is cheap in my country, dremels cost almost 100 US$

>>5789211
I don't know if that's even possible, they're incredibly hard to weave just at this size

>>5789704
That can be easily shopped

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3021x2918px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3021x2918px

Update on Shinji.

Working on his legs right now and having them attach to his hips. Bear in mind this pic is out-of-date since I decided to use the smaller ball-ends for his hips and I've also cut more around the area where the ball ends are to allow wider hip-articulation.

As for Loli/Shota, my order for 80% of the body and joints (and some extra things) ships out in a week since I opted for a delayed shipping to save on cash. Working on the hands in CAD now.

Okay, so I tried soaking some parts in high concentrated alcohol for like a day and a half, and used qtips and a little elbow grease, and there's still some paint residue remaining on my part, like it has a stain or something. Should I use a peroxide paste to get the rest off? How should I go about doing that, if so?

File: 1468186408759.jpg (376KB, 720x1280px) Image search: [Google]

376KB, 720x1280px

Reposting from last thread:

Recently came into possession of one of the 6 inch 3A zombies. Apparently the feet are attached just by a peg joint so it will only twist side to side. Any advice on how to mod it so that I can get at least forward and backward articulation? Never really done much customizing beyond painting and other cosmetic work.

File: de362b14557f4f579b5c46ea199b0c3d.jpg (290KB, 1536x1152px) Image search: [Google]

290KB, 1536x1152px

Acid Rain figures w/ marauder & GI Joe accessories

>>5790218
>I can't feel my legs
>My Eva is manhandling me
>Hang on, that's not my Eva
>I bet my dad did this

Shitposting aside he's looking good. Shoulders will probably need a bit of sculpt-work "cleanup" but considering it's made from a cheap static figure it's awesome.

File: quiet_wip_by_anubisdhl-d9d3t6g.jpg (84KB, 762x1048px) Image search: [Google]

84KB, 762x1048px

>>5788671
Does anyone remember the guy that tried to build his own Quiet from MGS V.

It looked like something from a horror movie lol.

File: screams in quiet.png (47KB, 183x233px) Image search: [Google]

47KB, 183x233px

>>5791233
Yeah that was me, what a fucking monstrosity that was.

I've since discarded the fucker into the trash, I don't know what kind of fucking autismo fit I was going through when I thought that absolute abomination looked good.

>>5791241
Aww that's a shame, In a weird way I kinda liked it :(

Do you still have pic's? Haha I'd love to see it again.

I wish revoltech would make a Quiet.

File: SOLIDUS - 1.png (684KB, 615x874px) Image search: [Google]

684KB, 615x874px

>>5791271
Yeah I still have them, fuck me they look horrific.

>>5791278
Awesome, it's honestly not a bad first attempt

Certainly better than what I could probably build :) practice make perfect bud :)

File: fusilli.jpg (21KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

21KB, 640x480px

>>5791278
She looks like she is made from different types of pasta.

I like it.

>>5791330
Delicious spaghetti Quiet.

>>5791281
Thanks man, I think I've gotten a lot better after this colossal fuck up. I'm the same anon who made the Persona 3 Protagonist in the previous thread.

>>5791241
aw man thah suck, it wasn't that bad, are you going to keep doing custom?

>>5791206
Thanks! Yeah, his shoulders will need some Milliput white added to them, they were literally sliced off his torso as close as I could get them without messing up his chest's sculpt too much. I even had to trim the pegs that plug into his sleeves (white and flesh) to get them as deep as I could. Literally half of my phone's pics stored on it are piece-by-piece shots of most of what's been done in this project. The tutorial is going to be multiple pages to show the steps for each area of the customization.

I am currently waiting on two blank HACKS males figures. One white one black. Im going to custom a kratos and my own version of spawn. Ill post pictures when finished but that will probably be another thread by then.

Any tips suggestions? Not really sure what I'm looking for. Just thought I would share

>>5790445
Pretty sure you can get spare feet or recast feet on eBay or on the kidrobot forums. I'd just say hollow a spare out some and shove a revo joint in, just so you don't fuck up your original part, or as a learning experience.

>>5791543
I love Spawn! All the best broski :)

>>5791365
Yeah man, I'm not going to let that mistake ruin the hobby for me.

Apart from the custom I posted in the last thread I'm currently working on a weird little monster design I made that I'll probably post when it's finished. I'll try and post some WIP shots at some point.

>>5790243
Bump?

>>5793193
You're not going to fully strip paint, there's usually always a slight reminder unless you sand it or go with a much more caustic solution, the latter of which runs the risk of softening detail or even destroying the polymer chains and causing the plastic to become brittle.

>>5793193
It's stained. You can try lacquer thinner which will take it right off but that's because it's attacking the surface of the plastic too.

I wouldn't worry about it. Give it a light sand and clean it with degreaser and it'll be perfect for painting/working.

>>5792359
remember that you don't learn a trade by doing nothing. No matter how ugly your Quiet looked, it was a learning experience. From now on you can only get better!

>>5793415
>reminder
Fuck, meant "remainder." I'm not -that- stupid.

>>5793415
>>5793424
Okay, thanks!

What's liquid silicone good for?
Can I use it for anything?

>>5795080
You can make molds out of it to cast parts with.

Heads up for those desperate for a Pochaco figure. There's resin garage kits popping up on eBay lately. Too bad it's so damn expensive and the ass is horrible with how it is articulated:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/302015658031

>>5795146
Would it work for a pressure mold?

>>5795080
>>5795462
w-what are you asking, exactly?

>>5795462
If you're doing a simple one-part pressure mold, just get something like InstaMorph.

File: TOY-SCL2-59080.jpg (49KB, 450x354px) Image search: [Google]

49KB, 450x354px

Anyone know anything about HiQParts's release schedule? Any idea if they have plans to release this decal sheet in another color and if so, what color and when? I'd kill for this in brown.

File: 1468731758372.jpg (1MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x1840px

Do you guys know what kind of effect is this and how to do it?
The one made with silver paint on the pants that kind of gives that metallic effect. I want to recreate it over gold paint once I paint it as Ogon Bat.

>>5796373
Damn it.
Sorry for the flipped pic. Not my phone.

>>5796373
Gunpla gen has a few guides for that.

File: Photo (28).jpg (152KB, 1248x465px) Image search: [Google]

152KB, 1248x465px

I'm making an inkling custom using a cu poche body, I did a mock up with some lightweight clay (that i won't be using for the final version because I don't like the texture)
Is acrylic the only/best option for painting on the face? When I tried the white i was using for the eyes made no difference as a base unless I added a lot in which case it became lumpy, I'm ordering some new better acrylics but is there anything else I can do?

>>5795309
Oh man you weren't kidding, that ass is a travesty.

File: 1461706039089.jpg (469KB, 1234x989px) Image search: [Google]

469KB, 1234x989px

Can the anon that made this custom Onslaught shed some light on how the cab attaches to the rest of the truck?

>>5796765
Yellow and white (and sometimes red) acrylic will always be a problem for beginners because the colors apply thinner than with darker pigments. You end up needing way more thin layers of paint applied than with, say, blue, and as a result it can look kind of bad. Pooling, inconsistent coverage, semi-transparency, etc.

The fastest way around that is to use a white primer designed for plastics, either as a neutral color base (for red and yellow) or just masked off in the desired shape and used as the primary color itself. Primer also has the advantage of more resistance to yellowing from sunlight versus typical store-brand painted acrylics, so that is a plus in the case of white.

What's the best way of making a 1/12 scale cinderblock wall?

Styrofoam was my first instinct, but that would fall apart very quickly, wouldn't it? My second idea was to mold a cinderblock in something like apoxie and then recast it in resin, but that would be very time consuming and fairly expensive.

File: image.jpg (369KB, 768x1024px) Image search: [Google]

369KB, 768x1024px

>>5797122
Try insulation foam. You can trace the lines in with a pencil and etch in the lines with a hobby knife. It's also fairly easy to paint.

I did up this wall using insulation foam and some light etching as an experiment.

>>5797122
You can buy modeling foam blocks at art supply stores, the grain in them is super fine. It's what they use to create 1/4 scale cars in the automotive industry.

>>5797126
>>5797133
Thanks, both of those look like pretty solid starting points.

Is hardware store epoxy resin any good?
They come in 2 tubes you mix to get the actual resin. I thought of putting it into a pressure mold.

>>5797051
thank you!

>>5797051
Actually, after looking on amazon I can't get any for less than £9 and I don't need 250ml of the stuff, I'm only painting the whites of a figures eyes.

>>5797436
It's understandable, but if you're having trouble with white acrylic right off the bat I would dare say your results aren't going to improve with more of the same. You could try getting some white waterslide inkjet decal paper, that's not wildly expensive and may give you better results anyways. This might be one of those cost-benefit situations where a few dollars difference pays off tenfold in results.

File: Photo (34).jpg (161KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

161KB, 640x480px

>>5797467
Yeah, I suppose so.
I'll wait a bit before taking the plunge though, my resources aren't exactly limitless and I'll try out the new acrylics first.
I'll check local diy/model shops too, to see if they offer it for a lower price.
I notice epoxy sculpt is recommended a lot here, but I'm going to try air dry resin clay since it's a lot cheaper and I'm not sculpting on top of a figure so much as sculpting replacement parts I suppose. If it works well I'll say.
Pic related is the mock up I did of what I'm planing on making, it's horribly messy but it game me an idea of how it'll work in principle, and showed that I really do need to use some aluminium wire for supporting the big tentacles.

>>5797478
Epoxy is nice because of the medium density of it while handling, the responsiveness to water, the cured strength, and its ability to sand evenly. It can get heavy pretty quickly, though, which makes it difficult to use it as a sculpting material for something that stands up or droops down unless you use a support structure.

With the tentacles I think you're on the right track in mocking up a wire structure underneath. You can also reduce a lot of excess weight and in turn control the form better by using aluminum foil as a majority form filler and placing your sculpting material atop it. It's something they taught us in figure sculpting class and it works nicely. Even if your sculpting material has a shrink effect when curing the foil won't crack it because of the amount of give it has.

>>5796765
I hope you add articulation to the hair, since those are huge and going to be not fun to pose around.

>>5797522
That makes sense, resin clay seems to have all those properties too but I'll have to see.
I did initially go without on the mock up (though I knew it wouldn't work) and they snapped, but adding wire made them much sturdier.
The tin foil thing is super useful, thanks! I'm sculpting onto a face plate and I had a problem that there's a hollow I'd end up having to fill somehow.
>>5797553
I want to but the problem is that owing to the nature of the tentacles that is going to be really hard. It's more likely I'll sculpt alternate hair pieces at some point (of them in motion etc) just because they've got to be very fluid but at the same time they're very thick which doesn't allow for your standard joints really.
I think I'll add joints after I've made it without first, just because I've never sculpted before really and I want to start on something easy.
The problem is to allow for proper articulation I'd have to add quite a lot of joints to them, and at that point they'd stop looking like tentacles at all.

File: image.jpg (74KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]

74KB, 600x450px

>>5798006
You might want to consider getting some Hobby Base Double Ball Joints for the tentacles. It'll be segmented but will give you the best articulation outside of a hollow rubber tentacle with bendy-wires

>>5798293
Yeah, I suppose I'll have to.
But now that you mention it I could use bendy polymer clay and have wire in the middle?

>>5798351
I wouldn't suggest polymer clay simply because of its crumbliness even when baked. Get some epoxy putty for making the segments, such as Plastic Weld Epoxy Putty. It's usually $7 for a 2oz. tube of it at Walmart. The stuff is light, dries white, has a working time of roughly 15-20min once mixed, sands well, can be carved and drilled, plus if you powder the ball-end of a ball joint using simple baby powder you can press it into the epoxy and compress it around the powdered parts to make a firm gripping of the ball end without it sticking to it. Then once cured you simply whittle away at the rim around the ball to give it a range of articulation.

File: Photo (39).jpg (139KB, 1009x480px) Image search: [Google]

139KB, 1009x480px

>>5798434
That makes sense; sounds hard though.
Resin clay arrived today, sculpted this. Is yet to be sanded so a little lumpy but that's not so bad. That'll hopefully go away when I sand it. if not it's not going to be too hard to smooth out with a littl extra clay and some patience.

File: quiet-metal-gear-solid-5-the-60.jpg (174KB, 596x380px) Image search: [Google]

174KB, 596x380px

>>5791233
>>5791241
>>5791271
>>5791278
>>5791281
Now that I see this, I wonder, which figure or figures could be good as a base for Quiet?

File: Please kill me now, end my suffering.jpg (66KB, 300x300px) Image search: [Google]

66KB, 300x300px

>>5797478

File: Photo (36).jpg (106KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

106KB, 640x480px

>>5798593
It's one of Madoka's faceplates, it does look pretty gloomy.
Besides, this is much spoopier.

File: scorpionchainWIP02.jpg (40KB, 840x283px) Image search: [Google]

40KB, 840x283px

What is a good source for a custom chain?

>>5798883
Chains from a craft store and thin nickel wire from a hardware store.

Are there any guides or do's and don'ts for modeling ball joints for 3D printing?

I currently model it so that a bit over half of the ball is held in the socket. With deeper sockets, I knife out a slot from the ball for a clip, so that the ball can squeeze in.

>>5799015
There's not much to it, and you're pretty much right on track. Cover past the equator of the ball head (taking into account flexibility - the more flexible the socket material is, the more it needs to cover the ball head when inserted), allow ample space for the joint shaft to move unimpeded in all axial directions, make sure that the shaft is long enough to avoid contact between the pieces it is bridging.

whats something I can put to give the plastic a more sturdy or heavy feel?

I got some nice bootlegs I want to try to add joints too, but its basically made out of hollow plastic and feels cheap as shit.

>>5799331
Get some shitty Squadron putty and dump it in there. If you want good cheap putty, go with Milliput.

File: PotionMaster.jpg (103KB, 720x960px) Image search: [Google]

103KB, 720x960px

Turning my ML Knight into an adventurer

>>5799462
>Squadron putty
so just use it to fill in the hollowed out pieces to give it more heft?

alright.

>>5800108
Pretty much. Some model kit makers put metal BB's into the feet of their kits, but that's overkill in your case. Just beware the change in balance that it could represent. Epoxy putties are denser and heavier per cubic inch than plastic when cured, so if you're just putting it in select areas you could completely throw off the balance

File: image.jpg (3MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4032x3024px

Starting to stuff and armature the assembled Spoonflower prints, I really like how this batch turned out.

Now Im waiting on the reprint of the extra colors.

File: image.jpg (4MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

4MB, 4032x3024px

>>5800619

This is the colorscheme my coworkers requested, it turned out super saturated and bright I love it.

>>5796765
>>5797478
>>5798440
>>5798678
Neat, can't wait to see it finished.

>>5799846
Nice additions. I'm getting more of a Castlevania or Dragons Crown vibe than Dark Souls. Maybe some weathering on the cape and armour might help sell the look.

File: 88764622345623423456.png (67KB, 512x768px) Image search: [Google]

67KB, 512x768px

>>5789913
You could buy really small chain and cut it into strips to avoid having to handweave it.

>>5800619

Where is pattern for these?

File: nagi134.png (3MB, 1183x1826px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 1183x1826px

finished sculpting this for a friend over the past few days.
articulation and removable parts (hands, torso, arms, head)

ingur link has pic of the box I made for it too
http://imgur.com/a/V33qk

>>5801005
Not released yet, sorry!

File: IMG_1395.jpg (2MB, 2448x3264px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2448x3264px

My first custom of Hanako Ikezawa from katawa shoujo, how'd I do?

>>5801232
That's terrible, it looks like she has 3rd degree burns.

File: image.gif (532KB, 480x360px) Image search: [Google]

532KB, 480x360px

>>5801251

File: Koujaku custom body.jpg (66KB, 600x335px) Image search: [Google]

66KB, 600x335px

It's not terribly impressive but it's the only custom I've ever done.

>>5801232
That's pretty good for a first attempt at a custom anon!

Next you should make a custom head/face.

File: 2343546754865.jpg (263KB, 530x822px) Image search: [Google]

263KB, 530x822px

>>5798583
She's not out yet but I could see someone making it work.

>>5801283
Thanks . I just recently bought a couple figma archetype bootlegs,and plan to do more advance figures.

>>5800619
>>5800625
Somehow missed these. They look awesome! Have you ever thought about branching out into cuttlefish? I like the shape of their heads.

>>5801094
OC of your friend's? I'm sure he'd like it very much regardless.

>>5801232
I feel like she needs texture to her face in order to sell the burn wounds. Usually I'd recommend powder pigments but they're usually for enamel based paints which don't take too well to Figma plastics. Still, it's not terrible.

>>5801232
Nice attempt at best girl man, I agree with what Fakimus said about the texture, and you could also do with redoing the eyes of the original head to look like Hanako's (water slide decals come in handy for this) and if I recall Hanako had dark purple hair? But overall I'd say it looks pretty good.

You did good friend.

>>5801232
Pretty good, though the white paint looks a tad thick. White is a bitch to paint though.

>>5800619
>>5800625
Oh man those are sick! The suction cups look great.

>>5801369
I actually derived the cuttlepus pattern from one of my older proper cuttlefish patterns, I just havent set that one up for 'painting' yet. I also want to set up the Flamboyant Cuttlefish pattern I have but I have to change that over from a pieced marking pattern to a painted marking pattern.

>>5801774
Thank you! There wasnt enough contrast with the suckers on a lighter background so I switched it for the new batches.

>>5801736
Thanks for the advice about the water slide decals, as for the hair it really depends on the picture. In game she's described as having black hair along with some pictures where she has black hair with a purple sheen in others it's almost lavender.

I've got a buncha Testor's acrylic paint but I'm not sure how much I need to thin it.

Anyone got a recommendation for a water:paint ratio for nice, thin coats? I saw this one miniatures painting vid where the guy said he used a roughly 1:1 mixture but he was using a different brand (games workshop, maybe?) so I'm not sure if Testor's has to be thinned a different amount or something...

>>5801232
Are you considering sculpting a fringe like she had in the game to hide the burns on her face? That's a pretty distinct part of her design imo.

>>5802235
1:1 for hand painting, 2:1 for airbrush.

File: Photo (56).jpg (157KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

157KB, 640x480px

>>5800642
Well, it is finished! Sadly a little lumpy and far from perfect but I'm proud of her for my first sculpting/custom attempt!

File: Photo (54).jpg (178KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

178KB, 640x480px

>>5802473
Excuse my desk, I wanted it to look like she was exploring it.

>>5802243
I thought about it but I didn't because it would cover up her really defining characteristic (the burns).

>>5802473
>>5802480
No. Squid is for fite.

File: reaction OK.jpg (35KB, 525x481px) Image search: [Google]

35KB, 525x481px

>>5802473
>>5802480
That custom looks nice, more if we consider that it is your first try in making a custom fig
You will improve with more practice

>>5800619
>>5800625
Man, those little squids loos really cute, Great work Squidworks-kun!

File: Cnug5GOUMAAuWK_.jpg:orig.jpg (435KB, 2048x1463px) Image search: [Google]

435KB, 2048x1463px

I wish that I have the practice and skills to do some custom figs like some of the elevens

File: Cnug65NVMAAcXBq.jpg:orig.jpg (328KB, 1463x2048px) Image search: [Google]

328KB, 1463x2048px

>>5802654

File: Cnug8rqUMAAZYwP.jpg:orig.jpg (322KB, 1464x2048px) Image search: [Google]

322KB, 1464x2048px

>>5802663

File: Photo (55).jpg (180KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]

180KB, 640x480px

>>5802585
Thank you!

>>5801801
Cool. I'd love to see them.

>>5802473
>>5802480
Wish the quality was better so I could get a better look but she looks neat.

>>5802654
>>5802663
>>5802667
Well Figbro, nothing's stopping you from giving it a try. Could always start on a bootleg or as a first project, transplanting the head of a gashapon girl into an ML body, that's how I started.

>>5802710
I'm going to get some better photos tomorrow! Only have my webcam right now.

File: CnvuSf7UMAAP7Ii.jpg:orig.jpg (65KB, 615x1000px) Image search: [Google]

65KB, 615x1000px

>>5802710
>nothing's stopping you from giving it a try. Could always start on a bootleg or as a first project.
In that you're right, Fakimus, I need to start doing something, I was thinking in doing some clothes for my Cutepoches, at least try some simple things for starters

On a related custom poche note; This guy's cutom Mokuba looks wonderful

File: CnvuT6aUsAA_IKT.jpg:orig.jpg (222KB, 2217x1000px) Image search: [Google]

222KB, 2217x1000px

>>5802753

File: CnvuTJWUEAAPfWD.jpg:orig.jpg (102KB, 1000x819px) Image search: [Google]

102KB, 1000x819px

He even go as far as made the box, that's awesome

File: CnvuUlVVYAARvpO.jpg:orig.jpg (83KB, 976x1000px) Image search: [Google]

83KB, 976x1000px

>>5802767
Now with the Yugi-oh poches, maybe we'll see more characters from this series

File: Cnvwem9VMAE4jWj.jpg:orig.jpg (328KB, 2815x2304px) Image search: [Google]

328KB, 2815x2304px

>>5802773

hey there fellas
not sure if this is the right thread, but will ask anyway, if it isn't, I'm sorry
I want to repaint lego BB-8 stripes to red instead of the orange it is, what do you guys reccomend? also, can I sand his bottom a bit or will i fuck up the figure? I have some spare ones I can practice on, but is it possible?
Also I want to repaint a unique piece to black, how?
Please walk me through it all as if I was a retarded child, for I am, I would BL if i could, but these are very specific items I can't obtain otherwise

>>5802654
>>5802663
>>5802667
I was about to be a shitter and be smug about his taste in idols but Riko is great.
All of the Sunshines are great.

>>5798440
What's the difference between resin clay and aves apoxie?

>>5803682
Well I've never used aves apoxie but the only two differences I've noticed according to what I've been told are:
It doesn't sand *too* well, you can sand it but next time I'd just be more careful with the initial sculpting and rely less on sanding
it's a LOT cheaper. Much more affordable. I'd recommend it.

File: 2016-07-20 21.08.50.jpg (2MB, 1576x2800px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1576x2800px

I know this isn't great, but its something I made just for fun

File: 2016-07-20 21.09.26.jpg (2MB, 1491x2644px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1491x2644px

>>5804469
Ill answer any questions people have

File: 2016-07-20 21.09.09.jpg (2MB, 1519x2708px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 1519x2708px

>>5804472
Last photo

>>5804472
Any backstory for this neat-o monster?
What parts/figures did you use?

>>5804492
Well im going to make a HACKS figure into kratos so I drew inspiration from the big skeleton minataur from the second game I think it was.

I used the body of necas first knifehead, tail of mcfarlane alien queen and the bones are from a base of a spawn huntress base. And some revoltech joints for the neck so the mouth can move all over

>>5804502
He looks like a video game version of Ammut, the devourer of unworthy souls in Egyption mythology.

File: 7 d&d figurine minotaure citadel washes speed painting.jpg (45KB, 710x373px) Image search: [Google]

45KB, 710x373px

>>5804469
>>5804472
>>5804474
Pretty good overall, but I think what kills it for me is that the parts are different colors and have different painting techniques applied.

Going over your white with a WASH or INK would vastly improve this, however, and they are super easy to apply. Just get a big fat brush, dip it in, slather it on.

Here's some washs applied to a solid white mini to demonstrate what it looks like. Clearly you want a bleached bone? So the one down on the right, and then highlighting it is a sinch because you take your white paint or an actual color called bleached-bone and DRY BRUSH it on, to taste.

The results would vastly improve if you basecoated the entire figure in the same color before the wash, however.


Real cool use of Pacific Rim figure that I'm sure was pretty easy to find thanks to the 2.0's superiority.

6/10

>>5800625
super cute

did you use bleach to stain those suction cups on?

Very snazzy.

>>5804529
Thanks anon ill keep working on it

>>5804510
Kratos vs Egyptian gods would be cool

File: dcompose1.jpg (69KB, 544x416px) Image search: [Google]

69KB, 544x416px

>>5804469
>>5804472
>>5804474
>>5804502
It looks really neat, it kind of reminds me to D'Compose from Inhumanoids too
Pretty neat custom, anon

>>5804609
He's pretty fun to fool around with too. I can see him as a water monster or a desert monster, but I do think I'm going to keep working in the paint

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3024x3024px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3024x3024px

>>5804543
I actually just had the fabric custom-printed through spoonflower. That way I could keep the results consistant and save on labor, as well as tailor the colors to exactly what I want.

While I do have DIY style panels set up to print, for shop stock I have a custom setup that lets me cram 20 cuttlefish into one yard of material to keep it inexpensive-ish. I'm still amazed we live in a world where an idiot like me can just get fabric custom-printed, this is truly the best possible future.

File: IMG_1234.jpg (265KB, 775x847px) Image search: [Google]

265KB, 775x847px

>>5803682
>>5804447
Actually i just realised something very important, this stuff is reasonably flexible even now it's dry.

>>5804469
>>5804472
>>5804474
McFarlane Alien Queen tail?

>>5806202
Yeah. It was from when I was a kid, and it was broken up anyway. Also made a queen skull with her head

I know I can get soft plastic to become malleable with hot water, but how do I get a piece as perfectly straight as possible?
I'm looking to fix my ROTF Bludgeon's sword before making a mold of it.

>>5806696
Get a hairdryer, hold the warped piece so that it is aimed completely straight up and down, blast it with the hairdryer till it turns noodle-like, turn your faucet to cold water, pinch and hold the piece in a straight fashion while putting it under the running water, hold it there for 30 seconds, and you're done.

Source: me doing it 20+ times.

>>5806735
Thanks.
I also made the really stupid mistake of leaving the sword on Bludgeon's hand so it's also warped. Would that method work as is on a thicker piece?

>>5806696
Do you own any hardbound books? Heat it up and sit the blade between two, stick it in the fridge or something, almost assuredly it will come out straight.

>>5806755
It might not get noodly, but I don't see why not.

>>5806301
Are YOU the anon who used their McFarlane Queen's skull head as an adornment to some spooky-looking case?

File: image.jpg (1022KB, 2663x2513px) Image search: [Google]

1022KB, 2663x2513px

Update on Papi/Loli!

So I have about 75-80% of the figure finalized here. Here's the basic layout next to a headless Marvel Legends Venom (paint removed for a custom later on).

I tried to replicate the new figma archetypes' torso joints and system but alas the sockets didn't work out as I'd hoped. I'll likely be simplifying the chest-to-torso connection to be similar to how Marvel Legends females are patterned (single ball-socket) and might do the same thing for attaching the hips to the torso (with hips and hip joint as one piece unlike a figma).

The shoulder-spike things you see will be removed with the ball-socket shoulders completely exposed. Lastly the final feet will NOT be articulated at the toes. The material properties and dimensions just don't work out here.

Big success with these sub-5mm ball-sockets though! I added narrowed the lips of the socket at the center and it resulted in a nice, tight grip on the ball end even after the initial friction rubbed the sufaces. I also managed to find the (ore or less) magic number of tolerance/clearance for peg-to-peg hole diameters for the tiny joints: holes need to be +0.15mm in diameter than the peg. After the holes are dusted out the peg needs to be inserted and rotated GENTLY as it goes in to get a firm grip that'll still swivel.

Next order will include the new feet, new hips, new torso, head, and hands.

>>5807264
What exactly are you trying to make? what's the premise? Pics of the designs you're working off?

>>5806915
Yeah I am, the case you are thinking of is pandoras box from god of war

>>5807264
That looks great! Will it be "cross-compatible" with Figma joints and the like, so one could feasibly use those instead of the printed joints?

Also, it'd be neat if you could print it in that HD black stuff (which is nearly injection-molding quality detail wise) and use it to cast the kit up in resin.

>>5807356
This is the first of (hopefully) several blank figures to use as fodder bases for custom figures made from Shapeways I plan to sell. The current figure is based on Papi from Everyday Life with Monstergirls as a 'loli archetype' that will later have interchangeable parts to make a generic harpy figure. Later figures will be designed in other anime-style body types (male and female) and my goal is to have parts and accessories to swap out with certain figures (such as hairstyles, clothed bodies, etc) so one could make a figure of their desired character to satisfy 'You knoe' wants.

That's all way ahead in the future, mind you. For now I'm trying to just make a loli/Shota archetype figure.

>>5807784
This figure won't have much (if any) cross-compatibility due to the small size and the joints it employs. The later models that will be of more figma/revoltech sized figures will have SOME cross-compatibility depending on the parts and joints themselves.

File: WP_20160722_21_08_00_Pro.jpg (1MB, 1456x2592px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1456x2592px

Doomguys done,any thoughts?

>>5808727
>any thoughts?

Yes. Please take a better photo.

>>5807356
Wait, were you talking about the ML Venom figure or the Loli archetype?

>>5807264
Will the finished version of the Papi/Loli be available anywhere for others in some way?

>>5808727
Now recreate the cover with random figures in place of the demons.

File: WP_20160722_23_10_06_Pro[1].jpg (1MB, 1456x2592px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 1456x2592px

>>5808770
>>5808904

>>5802800
anyone? not even cause dubs? :(

>>5808996
radical

>>5808996
nice

>>5809020
Needed quads, sorry.

>>5809020
Real answer: IDK. Check the second post for paint info and I don't have the lego bb8 so I have no idea if sanding him is going to fuck him up. I assume most people here don't have him either. Also: Painting lego is heretical, don't do it.

>>5809208
>check the first comment on this post

>>5800619
>>5800625
I want one really bad.

>>5801232
Pretty good actually.
Makes me want a Rin.

>>5802473
>>5802480
Makes me sad we may never get an actual Cu Poche or Nendo Inkling.

>>5804469
>>5804472
>>5804474
Looks like an unlockable character from the old SNES Primal Rage game.

>>5808727
>>5808996
Want

>>5808835
Yes. The Loli and Shota models will be available via my Shapeways shop (I'm Papi_Anon on there) once finished. Harpy parts will come afterwards.

>>5808444
>my goal is to have parts and accessories to swap out with certain figures (such as hairstyles, clothed bodies, etc) so one could make a figure of their desired character to satisfy 'You knoe' wants.

You're doing god's work, Papi-Anon.

How does one go about making their own figure from scratch a la Acid Rain World

>>5813023
Professional: Casteline or 3D modeling

Hobbyist/amateur: Clay maquette, epoxy, or 3D modeling

Custom Thread tier: Frankenstein together from existing parts and sculpt over

These are impressive.

https://twitter.com/JiroTokihama/status/757041399531384832
https://twitter.com/JiroTokihama/status/757040858378096641

by https://twitter.com/muscuto

Hey, what are those resin casting kits called, where you have the lego-looking things that you build the mold casing out of and pour the silicone into?

Do you guys know what I'm talking about?

>>5808727
looks really good m8

>>5814840
I think it's just resin casting and some guys use Legos. I don't know of any kits

File: TAILREDFIXO.png (132KB, 300x415px) Image search: [Google]

132KB, 300x415px

trying to make a customized figma from figma 162, 200 (fate testarossa and miku) to 'him'.

i'm thinking of using enamel paint instead of acrylic and here's the list of stuff i'm thinking of buying to complete the figma.

> paint brush no.000
> enamel paint (red black white yellow)
> enamel paint thinner
> primer
> epoxy putty
> clear spray lacquer
> top coat
> sanding stick extra fine and medium

what should i subtract/add onto the list to prepare for the customization?

also, some questions. is it safe to spray lacquer over enamel? i read that enamel paint thinner can't seep through lacquer so i'm thinking of spraying lacquer over finished parts when i'm painting the face (eyes in particular) so i could work slowly without having to paint over the mistakes.

second question, what's the minute difference between top coat & matte finish? i'm deciding if i need to purchase a matte spray as well along with the top coat, spraying matte first then the top coat.

File: Monsters_Sea_Rain_449403.jpg (214KB, 1280x771px) Image search: [Google]

214KB, 1280x771px

Hey guys,

I'm creating a diorama for all my kaiju figures. I'm currently working on the city side of it, but I'd like to add a beach and ocean area also.

Any ideas on what I can use for the water? It can't be a solid piece because I want to be able to change out the figures and do different poses.

what's a good way to fuse a figuarts head to it's body? My SHF Harley Quinn's head likes to fall off.

>>5814840
>>5814873
Yeah man those are just actual Lego bricks

>>5814941
So I'm not going to be answering most of your questions because I am going to highly recommend that you use acrylics and not enamels. You're not painting a model car, why would you want to use enamels? They probably aren't even compatible with the type of plastic you're painting.

As for the top coat and matte finish you'd have to link to specific products. It's possible that the top coat is a bit tougher and the matte is just a matte coating and not very durable. You can get protective matte finishes though so idk without knowing what product you're getting.

>>5815120
>Any ideas on what I can use for the water? It can't be a solid piece because I want to be able to change out the figures and do different poses.

What do you reasonably expect someone to suggest? There's only solids, liquids, and gasses and also Jello in this world brother.

Make it out of Jello.

>>5815247
I was going to use enamels because this blog http://mikatan.goodsmile.info/en/2013/03/18/bonus-painting-a-nendoroid-expression-the-teams-first-expressions/ used enamel paint to paint nendoroid face.

though wouldn't the surface of the plastic (pvc, abs) not matter since I would be putting a layer of primer on top of the figurine to begin with?

>>5815286
That head is a harder plastic piece that doesn't get handled a lot, I can guarantee you they don't paint the rubbery bits like the arms and legs with enamels. It'll crack off. Sometimes there's something in a more rubbery plastic that doesn't even let the enamel cure properly and it'll stay sticky for a while or even indefinitely.

>>5815253
Wow, you're a bundle of help.

>>5815120
Maybe something small like trans blue beads? It won't look exactly like water, but it's movable.

>>5815429
It's not that I'm shitty at helping it's that anon has an impossible request.

>>5815429
What's wrong with the gelatine suggestion? It's cheap, it can be molded into shapes, it could be formed around a figure and it's easy to clean off, my only concern would be that the dye in it might over time effect the color of a figure.

>>5815120
>>5815453
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOGJaBP0ihg

This, but it would be a bitch to clean off of a toy. Wrap them in saran wrap before putting them in it maybe?

>>5815453
>>5815453
I don't think gelatin is meant to be stored at room temperature for weeks at a time. Ypu would basically be making a giant Petri dish.

>>5815457
That stuff is kinda amazing. Don't know how well it's work with other plastics, but it's very cool

>>5815466
Gelatin, not Jello, think what gummy bears are made of but without the sweetener.

File: image.jpg (847KB, 1681x3264px) Image search: [Google]

847KB, 1681x3264px

I found Mezco's Spidey prototype extremely disappointing, so I decided to make my own. It's based on the Medicom RAH comic Spidey. Here's a WIP pic.

>>5815624

If you wanted to display your WIP, why don't you place it on a table or shelf and then take a phot? Ya knoe, instead of groping it with your FAT SAUSAGE FINGERS?

File: image.jpg (664KB, 1567x2863px) Image search: [Google]

664KB, 1567x2863px

>>5815670
>phot

>>5815474
No, they were right. Gelatin is, itself, a great environment for microbes. It's solidified meat soup after all.

Even gummy candy made without some kind of growth inhibitor grows mold.

>>5788671
Does anyone have the full pic or any more pics of the Nightingale thing on the top left?

>>5815706
And in a month at room temp it's not going to grow mold.

>>5815842
It ultimately depends on a few environmental factors. But in general, mold and bacteria have no problems growing in room temperature.

>>5815120
>Any ideas on what I can use for the water?
Look up railroad diorama tutorials for water effects. There are some on youtube and the results are pretty cool.

>It can't be a solid piece because I want to be able to change out the figures and do different poses.
Then make a bunch of different pieces that look like individual waves. Giant robots and kaiju would be kicking them up anyway, right?

>>5815842
It will. Even in a fridge after a month it will be moldy.

I made gelatin edible props for a convention a few years ago, a week bagged in the fridge some had started to mold.

>>5816912
>I made gelatin edible props for a convention a few years ago, a week bagged in the fridge some had started to mold.


Knox gelatin with sorbitol by chance?

File: _1451156622787.jpg (292KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

292KB, 1600x1200px

>>5815718
from 2chan

File: _1453618614808.jpg (292KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]

292KB, 1024x768px

>>5815718

File: _1457249730947.jpg (335KB, 1600x1200px) Image search: [Google]

335KB, 1600x1200px

>>5815718
.

File: _1458460575479.jpg (701KB, 1536x2048px) Image search: [Google]

701KB, 1536x2048px

>>5815718
Unedited pic from OP.

File: _1458539649902.jpg (412KB, 1224x1632px) Image search: [Google]

412KB, 1224x1632px

>>5815718
last one I have

>>5817028
Thanks mate.

>>5817029
Hey, Google reverse image search finally paid off.

http://blog.livedoor.jp/nucolina/archives/cat_1175102.html

>>5816981
Nah, knox with food coloring. I was experimenting with formulation, some had energy drinks mixed in and for whatever reason THOSE didn't mold.

>>5817011
>>5817018
>>5817021
>>5817024
>>5817028
What is this thing? from which series it is from?
Looks cool tho

>>5815120
I think clear resin for filler and really thick gloss medium for detailing like waves and shit on top.

Anyone ever tried making pressure molds out of green stuff for parts that would normally require an injection mold?
I can only find tutorials for pieces that use only one piece for the mold.

>>5819142
When you say pressure mold do you mean press-in mold? What exactly are you trying to do?

>>5819252
>When you say pressure mold do you mean press-in mold?
Yeah, that's it.

>What exactly are you trying to do?
Replicating ROTF Bludgeon's sword using green stuff and then use the same method for other stuff if I'm successful.
Materials are very limited where I live and I don't want to burn money by ordering stuff I have no idea how to use, so I'm trying to adapt.

Does anyone have any ideas to make facial hair and hair for the HACKS figures? Im making 2 versions of kratos (his normal beard, and new full beard) and also a new hair style for the blank female because I don't like theirs

>>5819287
Get some modeling clay (NOT polymer clay) and make a mock-up of how much material you'll need per beard. Don't worry about the texture for this part.

After you have an approximation of each beard's amount of clay used, roll each clay beard into a pearl separated from the figure.

Mix a small pinch of Milliput or some type of 2-part epoxy putty the same amount as one beard (your COMBINED epoxy putty should equal the clay pearl of the first beard in its volume).

Apply it to the chin/jaw just like you did before to get the basic shape of the beard.

Once you get the beard's overall shape down take out a clean, new or relatively new hobby knife blade and stipple into the beard with the tip, keeping indentations just deep enough to tap the face under the epoxy and keeping the stipplings parallel with each other for straight hairs. Make stipplings in close proximity of each other, poking into the epoxy at an angle diagonally upward (pointing towards the back of the cranium). Stipple as densely or loosely as you desire.

Once the stippling is done, allow to harden completely (differs between epoxies).

Repeat the same process with the other clay pearl for the other beard.

This technique is good for making fur or downy fluff and quill textures. I'll post pics in the morning.

>>5817070
Jesus christ that's sick as hell

>>5819713
Alright thanks anon

File: image.jpg (1MB, 2303x3290px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2303x3290px

>>5820350
Sorry it's late, but here's an example of said stippling using a fresh knife on Milliput superfine white. Sorry for the potato quality.

File: gunpla.jpg (394KB, 1280x1548px) Image search: [Google]

394KB, 1280x1548px

Check this out.

>>5822202
Take it to the plamo/gunpla thread, you cuck

>>5822202
Ignore >>5822205. That's cool as hell.

File: IMG_20160726_192612.jpg (2MB, 3330x4222px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3330x4222px

Sooon

>>5822327
Holy shit son, looks great!

>>5822202
sick

File: G1_overlord_toy.jpg (331KB, 1040x661px) Image search: [Google]

331KB, 1040x661px

Made a rough digibash to show the concept.

Do you think Generations Warpath would make a good Overlord? I;m not sure what I would do about the head.

File: Slendy.jpg (559KB, 1728x2304px) Image search: [Google]

559KB, 1728x2304px

This is my first custom, and I'm kinda happy how it turned out.

Awhile back I bought a ML chameleon and it was a QC nightmare. The right shoulder had a busted joint, the legs where basically statues and immovable, and it had weird melty plastic on the back (like it got sat on something hot).

I made a bunch of mistakes, but this was fun as fuck. Doing this gave me a new appreciation for the amount of effort it takes to do this stuff!

>>5822937
Looks awesome man, my only advice would be to give him Carnage hands for the more creepy look

>>5822938
YEa I was thinking that. I'll have to keep an eye out for a cheap one or something. IT would be cool to find some tentacles to add on the back too.

I'm kinda eyeing the DC multiverse "Bat Creature " Just so I can add stuff onto it and make it a crazy monster.

File: ff2.gif (3MB, 562x562px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 562x562px

Anyone knows what figures could be a good base to make Grand Dad?
I know that jazwares made a 4 inch Fred but
>jazwares

File: Generationstoy-T30-LegendsMegatronChopShop.jpg (98KB, 861x528px) Image search: [Google]

98KB, 861x528px

>>5822597
Generations Megatron would have a better head to build off of

>>5822992
Just repaint the mario figma you fucking epic memelord

>>5823001
But that wouldn't be accurate to the actual in-game sprite.

>>5822992
Use the playmates Fred then if the quality of the jizzwares figure worries you so

File: fred.jpg (34KB, 329x400px) Image search: [Google]

34KB, 329x400px

>>5822992

>>5823578
I loved that the toys had the actors/actresses' faces but the cartoon body proportions.

>>5823759
But they kinda didn't, did they? That looks less like Goodman and more like Robert Baratheon, whose actor coincidentally played Fred in the sequel.

File: reduced-gallery-ban59914r-5.jpg (45KB, 800x1130px) Image search: [Google]

45KB, 800x1130px

Getting this guy in the mail tomorrow. Don't want to shill out so much money for the SDCC version when it's just a repaint. So I was hoping of just giving it a shot with him since it seems simplease enough.

What kind of paints should I buy for figures? Same kind as war game miniatures?

>>5823881
Tamiya.

>>5823893
Thanks m8

>>5823928
Tamiya is only good for spraying. It's a solvent based acrylic that dries too quickly to level when handbrushed (but atomizes well, so sprays smoothly). Vallejo is good for handbrushing. It's a water based acrylic that dries moderately (but atomizes poorly and tends to gunk up airbrushes, lots of water-based acrylics do).

>>5823783
>Robert Baratheon, whose actor coincidentally played Fred in the sequel.
oh my god

>>5823578
>one listing on amazon has that same fred for 5 dollars while others have it at 26
>not 7
>doesn't even ship to my country
Fuck.
Let's hope that our country's new merchant president can fix this.

In the meantime, I'll just look for a bootleg Mario, some hobby joints, and sculpt the fleentstone!?! body myself.

anybody know if there's a type of epoxy putty that dries soft (like the soft parts on figmas)? I don't want my character's clothes to start snapping off when they move.

preferably in canada.

>>5826338
Not really. Epoxy is designed to cure hard, so a flexible epoxy would be a not fully cured epoxy, which means it won't have the same durability or tear strength as a soft PVC, while hard epoxy might pass as a very hard but brittle plastic.

For flexible and durable you need flexible resins or some sort of rubber I guess, though resin will probably be closer to those semi-flexible parts on toys.

>>5826338
The closest thing to what you want that's an epoxy is Plastic Weld Epoxy Putty (NOT the liquid form). It has SOME flex to it if it's thin enough, but it's a soft epoxy in general and only good for things 2mm or thicker.

You might want to look into Sugru, anon. It's an air-drying silicone-compound that has moderately good flexibility when dried and can be molded with silicone molds without bonding to them. It's delicate though, so the slightest tear can make any flexing rip.

/r/ing someone post or link to the Iron Man Drossels.

So you guys keep telling people to boil bootleg figmas, but aside from just tossing the thing in a pot of boiling water for an unspecified amount of time is there anything else I should know?

>>5827530
Do not toss your figma into a pot of boiling water, hot water yes, but not boiling water and don't let it sit at the bottom especially if it's a metal pot you are using. Just heat up some water pour it into a bowl and then set the figma in for less then a minute. you would be surprised just how little it actually takes to make the plastic pliable and soft.

>>5827579
Well shit, I've been doing that with plastic figures forever. I actually feel kind of dumb for thinking it'd be anything else.
Thanks mang.

File: mimiccustom.jpg (516KB, 1164x1006px) Image search: [Google]

516KB, 1164x1006px

>>5822327
Looks great man! Is that in the 7-inch scale? It would make a good big bro for my 6 inch one I made.

>>5823010
Add some sculpted angular detail.

File: Untitled123.png (30KB, 1403x336px) Image search: [Google]

30KB, 1403x336px

Just ordered a bunch of modeling supplies to make a donut steel Assault Lily. Any general tips for weapon making while I wait for it to get here?

>>5827530
You're boiling the bootleg to remove the parts or something? You could just use a hairdryer.

Other than that, I hope you don't think that boiling is an effective way to remove contact contaminants like lead from paint or something like that. Lead is an agent that is as buried and joined in the paint as pigment itself. It's a binder in the paint, same as polymer chains. The only way to remove lead is to completely remove all traces of paint, and then you'd be inhaling it from sanding or handling it in its unstable semi-liquid state which is magnitudes more dangerous than just handling it for a few seconds a few times a week.

>>5828089
>Any general tips for weapon making while I wait for it to get here
For guns it's best to start with small hobby grade brass pipes to make the barrel (and magazine tube for shotguns, and scope for sniper rifles), and then use styrene sheets to create the box shapes and thin styrene strips to add in the fine details. A scriber also doesn't hurt.

Handles are tricky to make, I've found it's best to just create a basic shape using an epoxy, let it cure, then gradually sand it down into shape to fit a figure's hands. Or salvage one from an existing gun.

Doom guy looks great. But I want to know What bear action figure is that? Where can I get one?

>>5808996
Damn it - idiot forgot to link. Doom guy looks great - what bear figure is that and where can I get one?

>>5828105
Isn't lead paint harmless unless you eat it?

>>5829021
It's most dangerous when eaten. But inhalation of sanded lead paint is really bad too. There's a reason why OSHA has such lengthy volume recommendations for lead dust reduction techniques in renovation of older establishments.

I want to paint some Marvel Legends stuff silver (wolverine's claws, some guns, etc). What's some good easily attainable paint to use that's not a silver sharpie?

>>5829942
Tamiya.

But if you can't find it for some weird reason, any game stores should carry miniature paints like Citadel. Personally I found Formula P3 to work pretty good. Metallic colors of Reaper paints tend to work pretty well too.

>>5829942
If you live in burgerland, michaels, joanne fabrics/ other craft stores have Testo paints. It really depends on your locale.
Think even my fredmyers has a modle cars/ paint aisle.

Games workshop/ and the like would have the higher quality paints like citadel/ etc

>>5829942
Alclad spray paints or some of the Tamiya TS silvers. Hand brushing silver never gives ideal results.

>>5830374
Acrylic metals are made for dry brushing, you'll get decent results. Testors model master enamels might also be okay.

>>5830399
Decent, but never good. They always end up looking far too grungy, and that limits the types of finishes you can achieve. Good metal finishes can only be sprayed, either by spray can or, preferably, by airbrush.

File: ylsppc-tn13_0.jpg (90KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]

90KB, 600x450px

What's the best way to get ball joints in custom colors? Can I just buy a bunch of pic related and paint/dye them?

>>5830469
I've thought about dyeing them before. It seems like harder plastic takes dye better, so that might be a good way to go.

>>5830469
>>5830478
You know I bought a few packs of the white and I've been meaning to test dye the runners but I never got around to it, maybe I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

File: image.jpg (47KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

47KB, 800x600px

>>5829942
Tamiya paint marker
X-11 I think

>>5830469
my guess is painting them and maybe spraying on a layer of finish (like matte or gloss) would work and prevent the paint from rubbing off, but haven't tried it so can't say for sure.

>>5831244
Yeah, it wouldn't hold, sorry. Painted joints will always succumb to rub eventually.

I feel like this is kind of a stupid question, but I've been having trouble finding a good clay to use for making 2 part molds. I found Sculptex at Reynolds Advanced Materials, but even the soft kind is a bit too hard to just push the model into. Everything else I can find is either air drying, too hard, or damages the original's paint.

>>5830469
Where can I get these where they aren't 15 dollars a pop? I've been wanting to make custom sculpted figures, but have no idea where to begin with joints. I doubt I could design and sculpt joints myself so I'm looking for an easily repeatable method so I can cast the parts.

>>5833705
HLJ has a nice selection of scratch building materials.

>>5815207

guess i'll just put some bluetac on it then

>>5833786
Most of the joints are out of stock it seems. Do they sell any in larger amounts?

Thanks though. I'll keep looking.

It's ok to put a little bit of paper in a ball joint for more friction?

File: cat.jpg (115KB, 600x1280px) Image search: [Google]

115KB, 600x1280px

I'm working on this right now. Pretty much done with sculpting unless her chest needs adjusted. Won't know until later though.

>>5834413
OC or an established character?

>>5833866
Order them and designate them for Private Warehouse. When they all come in stock over a 60 day period, you ship them together.

File: m_drone_000.png (154KB, 504x649px) Image search: [Google]

154KB, 504x649px

Hit a roadblock, I'm having issues with overhang so I'm seeing ways to model against it i.e. avoid 90 degree angles. Though my model pretty much is hard 90 degree angles at parts.

Automatically generated supports suck, what's the best way to model supports? For large flat undersides and the ball-joints?

File: Pussycat.png (74KB, 319x233px) Image search: [Google]

74KB, 319x233px

>>5834423
It's this clay cat. Because I've always had a hard-on for stop-motion.

>>5834477
Do you have a dual extruder 3D printer? If not you're shit out of luck. Otherwise Cura has a feature that allows you to take two separate models and print one as support for the other, but it only works if you have at least 2 extruders.

File: 41scgY0RNlL.jpg (29KB, 330x500px) Image search: [Google]

29KB, 330x500px

>>5830103
>>5830125
>>5830374
>>5830399
>>5830722

Thanks for the info. I went with Testor's enamel silver, for only 70 cents with a coupon. Results are nice, if a little too shiny. Paint is drying currently, I will have pics up later.

>>5834559
I don't really like enamels, but that silver in particular is incredible. I use it on all of the metal of my minatures

>>5834500
Ah. Those eyes are creepy, lol. Still good sculpt work with resembling the source. You gonna make a static tail or gonna try your hand at an articulated/bendy tail?

>>5834883
I have one of those tiny joints they put on newer figma hands laying around so I'm probably gonna grab some wire and sculpt a tail on the end of it and attach it to her back. I doubt the milliput is strong enough to make up the tail all on it's own, but I'll do a test or two first.
I guess I'm a damn liar about being done sculpting.

>>5834413
>>5834500
Why not just make her whole head from scratch? The character itself is made out of clay and not super detailed. It wouldn't be hard to make one that's pretty on model.

File: image.jpg (263KB, 1241x1844px) Image search: [Google]

263KB, 1241x1844px

Just got all theses guys from the hasbro toy shop deal. Since they're all so cheap I want to do my first custom. I've been reading guides but does anybody have inspiration.

>>5835879
It really depends on what you want to make? Going for a six-armed craziness like Doppelganger up there? Want to just do a simple repaint and make a new character that way?

We can't just tell you what to make.

>>5835870
Have you ever tried scratch building heads at a 5" size? It's terribly difficult.

File: nosferatu.jpg (108KB, 400x339px) Image search: [Google]

108KB, 400x339px

Anyone have any ideas for a 6 inch "Vampire" body? I got the head and hands I want to use but am unsure what to do the torso and legs. Kinda going for a Nosferatu type of feel.

File: s-l1000.jpg (101KB, 542x1000px) Image search: [Google]

101KB, 542x1000px

Hello, /toy/ and Customs General.
I've been lurking for several months and posted a while back that I wanted to get into the customs scene when I bought some cheap little statues of Batman / Joker and a little (very well articulated) Red Skull. Keeping up with my pace of collecting a bit before doing anything, I just today acquired a Jacob Frye (for $3, holy shit, I thought these things were like, within the $10, $15 range and I jumped at that as soon as I saw it). I bring this up because although I could do whatever I wanted with the figure, I figure that you guys would have a better idea of what I could accomplish with the figure.

Since this is my first custom, is there anything you guys think this will work for? What should I attempt? I was thinking of maybe ripping his arms off and salvaging the coat + hoodie for some other sort of build, but should I maybe try going for a Jack Sparrow kind of build since he's a bit visually similar?
If I remember right, some anon did an edit of one of these figures a while back and made a figure of Link as if he were in the Assassin's Creed world. I remember seeing someone here (Maybe it was Papi-Anon?) suggest that he use some sort of Aquaman figure's head for the closer "Link" look.

File: 1433581636732.jpg (938KB, 1536x2048px) Image search: [Google]

938KB, 1536x2048px

>>5836057
Here's that "Assassin Link" thing I talked about. I also just really have polymer clay to work with. I'm guessing that this is a bad thing to work with for customs since you guys tend to recommend miliput and greenstuff. Is there any real reason?

>>5835891
I have before but I was using airclay so it fell apart too easily. I don't think I could make a Figma or a Figuarts head but I feel like I could make a decent Pussycat if I wanted to.

>>5836168
Figma or a Figuarts tier head*

>>5835879
Fuuuuuck, I would have loved to have gotten Bulldozer for so cheap. i've had a custom idea for him for a while, but didn't want to bust up the one I have. I see it on the actual HTS site for cheap, but factoring in shipping and it's pointless.

>>5836057
I bought him, Spartan Locke, and the eagle vision assassin for $3 each.

>>5836235
Still though, the question really lies in "What are the bodies really good for for customs?"
I mean, I don't mind leaving him as is because he's a nice-looking figure as is, but I don't mind customizing him either, and it's like "Well what do I do with the body?"
It's this awkward middle line I'm on where I could leave it alone or mod it and I'm just not sure what could tip it to the mod side just because of the whole "What to do" aspect of it.

does anyone have any tips or anything on making some 1/12 scale arrows? I tried using some sculpt and tooth picks but I kept fucking up when doing the feathers.

File: image.jpg (3MB, 3024x4032px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3024x4032px

>>5836444
I got the thinnest wooden rods from Michaels and then used sheets of craft paper for the fetching and double layered them for the head.
I tried sculpey for the the non wood parts originally but it didn't work out.
Probably going to cut down the feathers even more and weather them

>>5836444
Do they have to be wooden arrows? If not you could just use a medium paperclip, which would actually be in scale with 1/12 and half the girth of a toothpick.

For the fletchings you'll get better results using a stiff material like thin styrene strips. Draw out the shape, get an x-acto blade, and cut it out. It would be better to do just two sections, create a notch, and form them in an X-pattern.

I could make an image tutorial this weekend if that would help.

>>5836521
looks like ass.

>>5836071
Firstly, welcome to the world of /customs/! Get ready to make tons of mistakes and learn lots! It's a rocky process but it's also fun because of that.

Now, onto the reply:

1) Polymer clay needs to be baked/boiled to harden it, and that's not really helpful if it's attached to the figure. Sure, you could carefully remove the clay bits and harden them as they are to them glue them back onto your figure, but that leads to...
2) Polymer clay isn't very sturdy compared to epoxies. It breaks much easier and lacks the properties of epoxies such as being capable of being sanded and modified with clean details.

Milliput is strong and has like a 3hr working time for molding and sculpting details (I've started using the white variant). Greenstuff and PlasticWeld Epoxy putties are basically the same compounds save their colors and packaging. That is, both putties cure as a soft plasticky compound that can be carved, sanded, drilled, etc. while having some flexibility paired with being lightweight. I personally only have experience with PlasticWeld epoxy putty but the stuff is great for castings, makeshift socket joints, and sculpting details (plus it cures off-white).

And lol, I do recall someone suggesting an Aquaman for a real-life Link, but I honestly forget if it was me...

File: image.gif (382KB, 400x263px) Image search: [Google]

382KB, 400x263px

>>5836521
Rest In Pieces, ye poor Neca Deacon sacrificed for this custom...

>>5836521
You guys will shit on anything if it has that Jin logo stam-

>used a Neca Deacon for it

Just kidding, kill yourself.

>>5836733
that would actually be really helpful actually.

>>5836228
Just a question what was your idea?

File: xj9.png (847KB, 562x752px) Image search: [Google]

847KB, 562x752px

A few weeks ago I told /aco/ I would make a Drossel with Jennies head... Things got busy, then my printer crapped out on me. I was able to get this dun tho.

>>5837212
>>5836979
>>5836841

>help help I've got no talent and can't do better. I must tantrum

>>5837739
THIN YOUR PAINTS

>>5838005
NEW THREAD!
>>5838005

File: s-l225[1].jpg (9KB, 225x198px) Image search: [Google]

9KB, 225x198px

Hey guys I want to repaint this figure, but I'm really lost on which paints I should use, for one I know that acrylic is too thick and could fall off, so I need advice on what to use to get as close as the original paint used?
It's the usual vinyl figure, not resin or anything special.

>>5837772
Shut up Jin lol That looks like dog shit