Scale Model General Thread

repeating my question from the old thread:

From out of your head, can you recommend a good kit for a soviet ww2 plane in 1:72 thats not to expensive?
I know, scalemates has tons of reviews, but i want to hear recommendations before i start digging through them

>>5774660
repeating my response from the old thread:
Zvezda IL-2 Stumorvik, 7279

>>5774686
Thanks

>>5774660
Zvezda Yak-3

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Work progresses slowly on the Ju-88 C-6 from Hobby Boss.

The RLM 71 is on but it seemed to have a bad reaction where I'd oversprayed the RLM 65 on the undersides before masking. This area of the rear fuselage had stayed tacky for over a week after spraying and had to have a coat of Aqua-Gloss to seal it for handling and masking. I'll leave it a few days before sanding it back and then I can mask the thing up for the RLM 72 part of the splinter camo.

The paintwork is deliberately patchy as it will receive a winter distemper over the top.

>>5774660

Hobby Boss Yak-3. From what I hear from those in the know it's the most accurate in 72nd scale.

How big is your spare parts stash? Wanna do some kitbashing/scratchbuilding but only have a few spares

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>>5775311
About this big, been saving random shit since late 90´s when i was 10 or so. Box on the left has all kinds of wiring, gauzes, clothes, metals etc. for scratchbuilding. I also have a smaller box with some 1/35 figures that i fucked up when i was younger, as spares.

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>>5775335
Also, first 3 layers of resin have been added. Also made some test batches to try out how to use Vallejo Water texture. I know sea is never that calm but that smooth surface looks so nice.

>>5775341
Some ripples in the water might look nice but I think it works as it is, it looks kinda peaceful. How visible is the sea bed and the scattered debris around the ship? The surface is mostly reflections in the picture so it's hard to tell.

>>5775377
>How visible is the sea bed and the scattered debris around the ship?
Thats a good question. Debris is easily visible but it also can be seen that the depth of the water is shallow, especially next to the cliff, where I envisioned some "deep" water instead of seeing it all the way to the bottom. So thats why im wondering if I should leave it as it is or add ripples to cover the fact.

>>5775341
Looks SO good dude. Probably my favorite build in the thread

>>5775341
Goddamn, that's pretty. I'd definitely add a lot more weathering to the ship though.

>>5775552
Like what? It's already covered in rust.

>>5776704
It could just be the photo/my monitor, but the rust looks pretty flat. there's a huge variation in colours on shipwrecks.

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>>5776743
For example, pic related. There's multiple tones of both browns and oranges; there's areas of original paint, original paint stained by rust, etc etc. Also note how the more orange rust is concentrated around the most worn areas, i.e the holes in the hull.

Not sure if you folks will be able to help, but I managed to fog acrylic varnish (vallejo, premium matt) with acetone whilst attempting a repair. I've managed to remove the fogging with olive oil, but obviously that's resulted in an unattractive glossy/greasy finish on those areas. Any suggestions as to how I can remove this without showing the fogged varnish again?

>>5774686
>>5774749
>>5774894

Thanks guys.
Its been a while since i last built a 1:72 kit and i totally forgot how cheap they are. I just ordered 2 kits for slightly less than 10€. Zvezda IL-2 and Hobby Boss Yak-3 it is.

>>5776747
Yeah I see what you mean but if you look at the picture in the OP it looks a bit more detailed. Would be nice with a better picture though.

My harbor freight airbrush finally died on me. Guess its time to get a real one.

>>5776918
Bought a badger patriot.

Really hoping this works well.

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found these on a different imageboard 1/3

kinda related i guess

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>>5777044
2/3

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>>5777044
>those tiny guns

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>>5777047
3/3

Oh god why...

Researching trying to find proper paint mixtures for US Navy colors with Tamiya paints and I came across this...

http://www.jeffhead.com/modelbuilds/Color-Scheme.htm

Just... why? Is he actually proud of these atrocities?

>>5777162
http://www.jeffhead.com/modelbuilds/Color-Scheme.htm
meant to link here...

Just click on some of those links and you will understand what I mean.

>>5777166
I looked at a few and they werent bad.

>>5777182
check his f-22

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Starting with the washes after a general filter. I wanted to enrich the surface with a bit of grimy dust, like when it rains in summer and the raindrops are dirty. Kinda convincing right now but I'm not sure when it dries
>>5774893
Nice to see it advancing, btw those mg look like tits
>>5775341
Like >>5776747 said I would add a bit of tonal variety to the rust, but looks so cool as is (I have a soft spot for shipwrecks). The water needs a bit of movement around the wreckage even if it's in shallow or calm waters they disturb the flow to the shore
>>5776750
Those fuck ups are near impossible to repair. I would paint/cover it with new varnish and start over.
>>5776960
I have the badger 105 and it's a little trooper. Easy to maintain and use, and allows to some degree of fine work. Invest in a good compresor first if you don't have one, the airbrush comes later.

>>5777395
>start over
After the hours of pigments and varnishes... Not happening. I'd rather have my olive oil tank.

>>5777448
Hahahahaha, perhaps a soft satin or matt varnish coat will unify it without affecting the work done. The main downside would be the loss of contrast between the different effects but most people do a final matt coat anyway

>>5777541
Yeah, I did gloss then matt as it's actually 1/56 scale for wargaming. As I said previously, the olive oil sorted the fogging, I just need some way to either seal the oil into a matt finish, or another method to remove the fogging. I'm not keen on trying more varnish, I suspect that won't work.

>>5777575
Well this might be overkill, but if varnish is not an option and you need to protect it the only thing that comes to my mind would be resin. Like the resin you use to make water on dioramas or to repair wood. Acrylic resin would be better because epoxy generates heat and it's even messier to work with. The application will be a bitch and controlling the thickness of the coat will be tricky. Try it in a different piece before using it in the tank. Also I have to say I never tried this or see anyone else do it but it might be a viable solution.

>>5777592
I think you're missing my point entirely. I'm needing to apply a matt finish over the residue of the olive oil (that removed/masked the previous fogging).

>>5777627
Well the resin will cover the oil and whatever the fuck is below it for sure acting as some sort of varnish, although it will look glossy. But after applying it there's nothing stopping you to coat it again in Matt varnish. If you were hoping to degrease it somehow forget about it as you will either destroy the model or make it worse as the chemicals you'll need are too aggressive or maybe a wash with warm water and soap does the trick assuming the pigments and others are covered.

>>5777651
I've already given it a light wash, that just removed the majority of the oil and made the fogging re-appear, although less prominently. I guess I'll just deal with a tank that's ready to be fried.

>>5775341
this is fucking gorgeous. As an ignorant art connoisseur this is a true master piece. Congrats!

also, how much? I would love something like this in my living room.

If I don't want to buy clear paints, is food colouring mixed with future a possible alternative for painting clear pieces?

>>5778127
Yes.

But I've found it works best if you dip the piece. Remember to wick off the excess on some paper towel and leave it to dry under cover.

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Chipping finished. I might over done it a bit but I wanted to show a surviving Ferdinand after the Kursk offensive, with all the MG impacts, hits, etc. the front is fucked up but the rest has less hit marks. And now to my favorite part: oils

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>>5778806
Looks like a solid start, I would suggest using a sponge for softening some chips. Works really well.

>>5778806
If I'm being honest, I agree that you over-did the chipping. Obscures the really nice looking camouflage work. If you can I would tone down the chipping over the flat surfaces and focus it around the impact points and edges of the tank.

>>5778932
I agree with him too, using small bits of turn up sponge and a pair of tweezers, you can apply much smaller chips. I do it similar to dry-brushing, where I dip the sponge in some paint and then using a paper towel remove almost all the paint then apply.

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I used to make a lot of models, but the club I was a part of disbanded and I ended up selling alot of my collection, recently I got back into the swing of it and bought this 1:72 Spitfire mkI/IIa

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>>5780054
This is what I'm at so far

>>5780055
my favourite bit is all of it.

>>5780055
thin your paint anon looks a little thick.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKfeeh65h6U&ab_channel=QuickKits

maybe do something like this?

>>5780055
You should have painted the cockpit and the pilot before final assembly.

>>5780055
>model kit gore thread

>>5780055
How old are you?

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Oils set, I'll let them dry and correct what I don't like tomorrow. I'm thinking of not doing any streaking or even mud, just a bit of dust and dirt.
>>5778932
>>5779649
Yeah I should have done it with a sponge in some areas, that trick gives a nice little random pattern that looks really good in your pic. The chips are done with acrylics so I can't correct them without painting again. I should had followed the "less is more" advice in chipping. Well, lesson learned: don't get into the heat of the moment of imagining epic battles while painting chips

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Seriously considering doing the Akagi for my next build, along with all the aftermarket for it. Extremely expensive... should I?

>>5780551
Did you tone it down? Looks much better.

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>>5780551
The way I do chips is as following for german vehicles: first I apply chips with a brish using primer red color, then I use a sponge, also in primer red. After that, I paint the deeper chips (down to the metal) with a dark brown color (Ammo's chipping color). If desired, I use a pencil for metal effects. Have a pic of the shell impact on the front plate.

>>5780669
I tried to repaint some, but the front is a bit better. The oil helps to make them stand out less
Also
>50k yen = ~499€ Plus shipping
Wew lad, are you sure? That's a lot of money but hey, if you are going to have fun with it go for it, and carriers always look impressive

Anyone ever do resin dinosaur skeletons? They looks amazing

>>5780686
Fucking auto refresh I didn't see it. Looks pretty reallistic. I like the idea of showing primer, kinda similar to use a brighter shade of the base color like I did. For the metal I used a bit of metallic pigments which don't stand out a lot but gives that metallic look. Im going to buy some earth pigments and perhaps those fancy chipping fluids to try it in the next one

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>>5780738
I have one I bought from china, resin copy of a uk one. original was too expensive.
it needs a LOT of work to make it presentable tho.

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> want a movie accurate AT-AT for a decade now
> finally two get announced at the same time

I am rather new to model kits and I wonder which one will be the better version and how the prices are going to be. I have bought some Bandai kits and think they are great.
Is Dragon a good brand? The Dragon model intrigues me the most right now. At 1:35 scale it is going to be 28 inches tall which is extremely imposing. Will it even have moveable legs at that scale? I am mostly a Lego collector and it seems the only thing keeping Lego from doing a large scale AT-AT set is the weight coming from the body. Joints would be unable to hold up the weight and making the legs solid removes articulation and still makes it a pain to connect the legs without parts breaking off, or when the clutch is at its worst, the whole leg desintegrating.

And what prices should I expect for both kits? The biggest Bandai kit is a 24cm Falcon for 45$ which still is a completely different league compared to the AT-ATs. I never ordered something big from abroad because I dislike driving so far to the customs office but it seems worth it for this.

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>>5780791
And another pic of the 1:48 Bandai kit.

>>5780791

Nothing's come out as regards the Dragon 35th scale AT-AT apart from what you've posted there and a few pictures. But the production model looks a bit off with some of the panels being wrong on the body, and the feet looking iffy.

The Bandai one was just a walking demo for Tokyo model show last year. It's not confirmed in the slightest.

Going by the prices dragon charge for 72nd scale tanks I'd be surprised if it was that much less than $400

>>5780791
>1/35 AT-AT

That thing will be fucking massive. 1/48 or 1/72 seems much more reasonable for such a huge vehicle.

>>5780871

68cm to the hump I believe, if Wookiepedia and the cutaways book on my shelf have their dimensions correct.

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My OS crapped itself, and i had to go back to work after 2 weeks of summer vacation, so havent done anything more than poured the rest of the water.
I do have to add some sort of ripples on surface since the surface didnt come out as good as i expected, there is some sort of residue.
>>5775552
>>5776704
>>5776743
I agree a somewhat with you guys, but im now extremely paranoid about painting the wreck itself now that the surroundings have the resin poured in, and im not so good with masking tape that i´d trust it to hold. Maybe some pigments?

>>5777844
>also, how much? I would love something like this in my living room.

About three fiddy.

Or not, im not that good.

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Bit more done on the 88. Decided to start the splinter. I've deliberately only done the wings and horizontal stabs because I'm lazy and it requires less careful masking this way.

The port wing is a bit dodgy as I had some bleed, edging and I pulled some paint away with the masking tape. This can all be fixed though. A light rub down with micromesh after letting it settle for a couple of days will take the edge off and the chip taken out of the paint will (thankfully) be covered up by a decal and the rest by the winter distemper.

>>5780945

Try waiting until the resin is nearly set (but still pliable) and blowing on it with your airbrush to create the necessary ripples.

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>>5780967
About 2 days late for that dude, I´ll just do whats in The Weathering Magazine Issue 10, the one about water.

>>5780999

Well, that'll work.

It looks lovely by the way. Really fantastic, and I'm stealing the idea.

One thing though, if you do it again, is you might want to find a water product of lower viscosity as the resin is trying to climb the shipwreck, which works on the seaward side as it will be covered with waves, but on the landward side it looks a bit funny. The reflections are probably making this more noticeable than it really is though and it's a very nit-picky thing to say regardless.

>>5780945
Pigments would be a good way of doing it, yeah. Maybe just some crushed chalk brushed on? Different tones concentrated in different areas could help with the variation.
Honestly though, I think it needs very little done; it's not as flat as I thought it was, now that I can see it clearly.

>>5780790
Pics?

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>>5780791
Buy the mpc at-at, then accurize it

>>5780054
>the club I was a part of disbanded
>doesn't paint the pilot and the cockpit.
what kind of club was it?

>>5780054
airfix? those thick panel lines
as if it was meant for brushing.

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Does any company off metal models rather than plastic?

>>5781540

Metal models of what?

Plenty of companies produce white metal figures in various scales.

Not any aircraft/vehicles made out of the stuff (apart from die-cast models, which aren't kits) to my knowledge though there are probably some white-metal train kits if that's your thing.

>>5781275
that is my pic. the bottom one at least. its where it sits for now, unbuilt in a box till I can get around to working on it, and have somewhere to display it.

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Im genuinely scared. Many models have been done well only to be fucked up in last stages.

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>>5782509

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>>5782509

Hang in their chief.

In other news more fucking paint has come off the 88. Back to the plastic this time too. Stynylrez primer might spray and sand well but it don't stick good.

>>5782536
*they're

>>5782541

*there

>>5782509
Did you apply that Woodland scenic water effects as that picture suggested? Even if it's a bit hard to tell by this stage it looks like you managed to create some nice realistic looking waves. I'm sure it'll turn out great.

>>5782536
How did it come off like that?

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>>5782536
>acrylic """primers"""

>>5782509
how many bottles of cum did you use?

>>5782509
Love it. Im gonna try something similar at some point

>>5782560

Masking tape pulled it off. Last piece I took off too. Can be salvaged easily but it's still a cunt.

>>5782536
with stynylrez always wash your models with soap.

>>5782745
You should always do this.

>>5782745

I did wash it down, I always do. Just bad luck, or tape that wasn't properly de-tacked.

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Calmer sea has cured, bigger waves are still wet. Have to do some touchups near the cliff and shore

>>5782560
>Did you apply that Woodland scenic water effects as that picture suggested?
Im using Vallejo Water Texture, but it´s basically the same thing. But I did take some freedoms in applying it since I dont want too big waves because of the smaller scale.

>>5782581
>Using bottles
>Not just cumming on the model

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>>5782768
>properly de-tacked.
but why do you need to do that? doesn't stynylrez hold well on the other spots of you model? it does. this mean that on this spot it wasn't applied properly or the surface wasn't cleaned properly.


btw, look at what i just did. i have acryl. paint thinner and lacquer thinner in similar bottles. to erase some paint, mistook the bottles and swabbed the model with lacquer thinner. fuck.

>>5782797
also, i discovered washi tape

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1Roll-Rainbow-Decorative-Washi-Tape-Gummed-Tape-Sticky-Paper-Masking-Adhesive-Tapes-Scrapbook-Decorative-10M-15MM/32644055132.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.91.ASkBxx

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>>5782797
>raised panel lines

>>5780871
1/48 would match the snow speeder and AT-ST, but damn it would be huge. 1/72 or 1/144 seems more likley. But hell, they are doing the original trilogy Millenium Falcon in 1/72 now.

>>5782807
what the fuck do you want? the kit dyes are from 1976.

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>>5782825
>building shit

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>>5782830
>Not making inaccurate shit into scale accurate jewels with ever improving worksmanship
>Giving money to Tamijew and Dragoy for kits that build themselves

>>5782769
the cum waves look weird.

Water doesn't really go into that wash white unless it hits up against something

>>5782835
that part is drying

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>>5782834
>not having money

>>5782769
Hey, that's starting to look mighty good if I say so myself. Doesn't seem like that bad of a fuck up to me.

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>>5782834
how else would you make models without tamijew or dragoy?

>>5782536
I've read so many bad things about that shit, don't use it anymore anon.

Switch to something like Mr. Primer Surfacer, or regular Mr. Surfacer 1000+ thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner. Using a lacquer is so much better because it actually bites into the plastic since the thinner dissolves into it, making it hold very strongly.

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Haven't posted in a while, I've been working on the Indianapolis. Currently masking and spraying the hull working my way down.

Not sure how accurate my colors are, it was hard to find a good source on mixing Tamiya paints to get the right colors. I used X-50 for the navy blue 5-N, and XF-50 lightened with some XF-66 for the deck blue. The light grey 5H color is a mixture of XF-19 and XF-54.

>>5782852
>>5782834
Dragon is shit. Honestly, they are so overrated. Their quality has decreased rapidly in the past few years, from once offering kits with a healthy amount of photo etch and magic tracks, to basic DS tracks and no photo etch at all in their newest releases, all while increasing in price. No more metal barrels either in most of their kits.

They also keep producing the same boring shit over and over again, their armor is nearly 95% German stuff, and they have to release every single variant of every single fucking Wehrmacht vehicle down to shit that was only prototypes, or plain shitty designs just because they're German. For fuck's sake, why can't they do a Comet tank, or a Cromwell, or some obscure Italian tanks like the P40.

>>5782897
I'm not going to justify what they are doing now but some reasons are:
German afvs and planes are king, they have the greatest following. This translates in a broader market so more dosh

They became the great alternative to tamiya in quality and offer(ed?) that little more that increased the value. Revell and italeri were and are meh, other brands were either too low or too high to compete directly or were inconsistent in their releases. But breaking the market is easy, maintaining it is the hard part. We can see it with their latest releases and the rise of brands like takom or meng models or bronco for example.

WWII is a finite subject, once you do a great tiger 1 late it's done, that's it, either you make a revisited version with more detail or use some of the molds to make some wacky prototype with tiger parts to keep the wheel spinning you know. Now expand it to the rest of the afvs and you run quickly of models to make

My points are of course debatable but they outline the reasoning of their strategies and the "fall"
Also the p40 is already made by italeri and reboxed or revisited by tamiya but seems that nobody cares. The sherman's are quite bland (personal opinion) and have very little options (calliope, firefly, jumbo, easy 8 and what else?) and the same goes for the British crap
>fuck the allied shit eating forces :^)
But I gotta admit that a new Cromwell kit or a comet would be lovely

>>5782890
I think real 5-N navy blue is a bit more...violet, for lack of a better term, but on the other hand I keep seeing contradictory sources on that and the lighting makes all the difference.

Did you attach the PE rails before priming + painting, or did you prime + paint them separately and then attach?

>>5783017
Some I attach first, so that there is a real solid glue bond, others on the upper surfaces I am attaching once I get everything together.

I like to get everything 100% built completely before I even start painting, just the way I like to work through kits I guess, except aircraft of course where you have to paint the cockpits and whatnot before you do anything else.

It's so hard to find the right shade for 5N though, I'm just going for it with XF-50 though, I'm not that concerned about it being 100% accurate.

>>5780055
Did you spread fucking marmite on your plane?? Australian air force?

>>5782769
Looks great. Got a photo like the previous one.... >>5780945 Here? I'm curious to see if the addition of waves masks the surface tension of the water from the previous step.

>>5782769
Post older wip pics

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More progress, I'm basically finished painting the main hull aside from some minor details here and there.

Does priming work with a brush, or do I need to go out and buy a spray can?

>>5782890
Are you thinning Tamiya paints with their lacquer thinner? Do they then perform similar to Alclad's primer?(that's my only experience with lacquer paint)

>>5783644
If you're brush painting, just get a rattle can primer like Tamiya superfine white or grey. They probably carry them at your local hobby shop.

>>5783658
Yes, I thin Tamiya paints with Mr. Leveling thinner with really nice results. They level out really nicely and you can spray them very thin and build it up very slowly. Dry time is very fast with lacquer thinner as well.

Can't commend on Alclad's primer though as I've never used it, so I don't know if its similar. I'm guessing though that it's similar to how Mr. Primer Surfacer and other Mr. Surfacer stuff sprays.

>>5777044
>>5777047
>>5777085

Is that a Mogami-class?

Those AA guns and DP 12.7cm guns look japanese

>>5783798
soviet cruiser murmansk

Wreck was removed some years ago

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soviet_cruiser_Murmansk_(1955)

>>5782897
>they're shit
>I really want these kits form them

You seem a bit ambivalent.

>>5783419
So you glued the handrails to the deck before painting, but not to the superstructure?

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>>5784186
No, I glued them onto the hull before painting them, but there's a few on the upper surfaces that I couldn't glue on due to the way that the model has to be painted.

Like I said, I try to build as much as I can of the model before I even start painting.

I did fuck up the rails on the bow of the ship when I was drilling a hole into the deck though, the drill bit snapped and It nearly destroyed the starboard side of the rails. Had to remove the rail and did my best to straighten it out, but it's still really fucked up.

The worst part was the bent parts of the rails near the front 8" gun turret. They were such a pain in the ass to build and they got messed up during the build as well, but I did manage to salvage them mostly.

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I usually only build 1/72 armor and gunpla, but I grabbed this Tamiya Tiger I a while ago at a tank museum and decided to do it up with some GuP decals off of ebay

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It didn't come out too bad considering it's just a flat coat of Dark Yellow and some black/silver touchups.

Alclad Aqua-Gloss is the worst. What kind of (apparently) airbrush ready varnish clogs a .35 needle on a just stripped and cleaned airbrush in under a minute, and leaves an awful rough texture to boot....and attracts every mote of dust from miles around? Brush painting never gives any better results as regardless of what I do (and the 25 quid spent on the bestest, largest, flattest, softest series 7 brush I could find) seems to stop it a) showing brush strokes and B) looking pap.
I very rarely consider chucking this hobby in, but ANYTHING to do with varnishing a model drives me near apoplectic. If the weather round here wasn't so resolutely awful 364 days of the year I'd go back to spray cans. I never remember Purity Seal causing me these problems.

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>>5784374
Your prescription

>>5784241
>>5784243
read or watch some tutorials about weathering. there are some easy and simple steps you can use to improve your result.

>>5780140
kek

>>5784453

Considering it's a GUP tank it can get away without weathering it.

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Small update. Decided to repaint two of the hatches with Dunkelgelb and painted the red-white sticks on the rear. Also improved some paint chips.

>>5784243
Nice start. Would be nice if you managed to add sag to the tracks too.

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Anyone do cold war subs? I realize they are basic and I am mostly an airplane person myself but I wanted to do some after reading Blind Man's Bluff. Here are a pair of DSRVs which I have been stuck on since I don't know how I am going to paint the white markings without it looking like crap.

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Well the Ferdinand is set aside till I order and receive the pigments, so I’m thinking of starting the chieftain but the idea of having to do that scheme is giving me PTSD…
>>5784602
Lovely detailing and great paint work, can’t wait to see it finished although it looks like a long project
>>5784826
Well I’m not a naval man so working at those scales is an unfamiliar thing but if I were you I would mask it carefully with tamiya tape and paint it with my finest brush with mildly thinned paint (the point it’s not thick but neither too runny). Perhaps varnishing it and painting the white part with enamel in case the masking is not enough or fails, so you can clean it with white spirit easily. Also patience is the modeler greatest ally, so don’t rush it. Pic related seems the same scale if it helps

>>5784867
Or use maskol now that i think of it, but keeping a straight edge with that would prove imposible

>>5784867
Thanks anon. I will give it a shot. The pic helps and shows that it can be done.

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I don't know a damn thing about scale models except for a little bit of gunpla and I've been wanting to build this tank from the Valkyria Chronicles games, could anyone recommend a kit that looks close enough, or a couple I could Kit bash?

I know kotobkiya made an actual kit for this but I can't find it anywhere

Its fucked up but my harbor freight brush worked better than the badger patriot.

Kinda fucked up a build but I think Ill be able to salvage it

>>5784928
Glad to help
>>5784971
>I dont have any idea of afvs or neither scratch work but i wanna throw myself on an advanced task just because
Leaving naiveté apart, which I respect for your love of the game I guess, the model of the Edelweiss was/is made by Zoukei-Mura.
Have some links to buy it:
https://www.amazon.com/ZKMSWPSSP01-Zoukei-Mura-Edelweiss-MODEL-BUILDING/dp/B00KMU70VA
http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=127_145_147
And the model you could bash to make it from scratch/custom is a King Tiger, but please refrain from it unless you want to throw away your money or practice

>>5784971
>>5785004
I found you another place to buy it just in case
http://www.play-asia.com/valkyria-chronicles-principality-of-gallia-experimental-tank-ede/13/707eht
Just dont fuck it up, its a nice kit but you should start smaller and the move to this

>>5785004
>>5785032
Thanks man, I really appreciate the help. I'll get a couple cheapo kits to practice on before working my way up to it. And I ended up finding it cheapest here https://hlj.com/product/VOLSWPSSP1

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weathering train cars is fun :v

Newfag here, I've done my main painting with enamel. Is it still okay to use oils for washing, or will I have to pick up acryllics?

>>5785188
You pretend to do a wash which involves using enamel thinner directly on top of enamel paint
>what could go wrong? :3
Just think a bit
If you protect the layers with varnish no problem, technically you can paint with whatever you want as long you protect it or doesn't involve its own thinner

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Almost finished assembling everything together. Still have yet to paint some small details such as the floatplane, the whaleboats and the life rafts.

I'm about to start my 2nd attempt to build a Hobby Boss T-34 in 1:48. I fucked up the tracks on my first kit badly so i re-bought it. (different version this time though).

Jesus guys some of the stuff here is fucking outstanding.

I like to do aircraft but I absolutely cannot into cockpit panel lines, weathering and I don't know what the fuck to do. I struggle with camo too.

I can paint solid colors like a fucking magician and all, but camo just fucks my shit up.
I need to get a decent airbrush

Pls Halp

>>5785614
Get a badger 150 and a compressor with a tank.

For everything else there are literally thousands of tutorial vids out there

>>5784537
yeah, but even a simple pin wash would give him some character.

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Posted my finished 1/72 BMD-2 some time ago.

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>>5785632
...and the results

>>5785633
Looks great, especially so for the scale. What kit is it?

>>5785664
Older Ace short run kit, so the quality is shitty. S-Model makes some nice BMDs in 1/72, only drawback being the one piece running gear.

Looking to build my modeling skills back up. Anybody have recommendations for 1:35 scale vehicles and armor for a beginner?

>>5780055
That's shit, that is.

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Okay so, this may or may not come across as heresy to you guys, but supposing I want to take some model jets, and cobble them together into pic related, what jets would you just recommend, I was thinking a F14 Tomcat?

I'm not really well versed in ACTUAL aircraft.

>>5785959
What period? Countries? How much you are willing to spend? What infrastructure you got already?Etc.
My vague recommendations are dragon smart kits of some box color that I don't remember (orange I think) that are supposed to be easier to build but don't buy them if they are too expensive, trumpeter in general is good enough and relatively cheap (~40€ average), tamiya older stuff in sales or clearances may be a strange yet mostly pleasant trip to the 20th century as their kits are easy and bullshit free but quite expensive, especially the new ones. Revell, italeri and zvedza may be better starting points as they are cheap and disposable, yet can be brought to excellence (like everything I guess) on expert hands
If you wanted a specific afv then give us more general info, because what's easy and dandy for one might be a shitty build for others
>>5786000
In what scale? 1/32 - 1/48 could get a bit expensive to fuck around. If you wanna do what's in your drawing perhaps a f-14, a f-35, a mig 29 and maybe a b2 for the body if the tomcat frame is not enough?

>>5785228
Are vallejo washes recommended in that case?

>>5786065
In my Ferdinand (pics buried somewhere above in the thread) I did the washes with Vallejo acrylic washes (black, grey and sepia combined in several tones). I painted it with Tamiya acrylics (although they are closer to lacquer so you can damage them with white spirits if you get too aggressive as happened sometimes to me) and protected the base paint with satin varnish, put an enamel filter (don’t confuse it with a wash filter=uniformly applying a highly diluted “paint” to the entire surface without accumulating it) and then the washes with the acrylics. Now for the field report: I wouldn’t personally recommend doing weathering and especially washes with acrylics as they dry fast, are hard to control and can’t be easily cleaned up. I used them because I had them around and wanted to work at night, so fuck white spirits fumes and smell. But overall is better to use enamels as you can keep working for days and excellent cleaning/diluting on surfaces control. So now is reduced to if you want to coat it with vanish and what you feel more comfortable working with: easy to clean and friendly acrylics or messier yet easier to use enamels, as for the results judge them yourself but they end looking similar

>>5786000
>that jet
You have to be above the age of 18 to post on this website

>>5786202
Knowing what the source material is, he's probably older than you buddy.

>>5786064
Hey, thanks man. I'll look into those.

>>5786202
C'mon, that's not necessary. I just happen to really like a jet from a cartoon I liked growing up, that still holds up fairly well today.

>>5786213
^ is possibly right, 32.

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Kind of a strange question, but does anyone know where I would buy some high quality brass display peg stands for a ship kit? I'm thinking of the ones similar to those that come with large-scale Hasegawa kits.

I'm nearing completion on my Indianapolis and I want to build a sealed display case for it since it won't fit inside my Detolfs, and the display stands that come with the Academy kit are tiny as fuck and incredibly unstable. They are also pretty damn ugly (see pic).

>>5786064
I have all the necessary tools i think, including an airbrush. Preferably WWII stuff but im really not picky. preferably in the sub 40$ usd range. sorry about the lack of detail. Thanks!

>>5786365
Sockelshop.de

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Getting there. A little more blending andweathering will help but Im pretty pleased so far.

This one has lighted engines in addition to a fiber optic cockpit

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Been working on one of my first kits that I got in December as a gift. The magach 6b gal batash has been fun to build and paint. I don't think I've done too bad for my first model, as well as hand brushing it since I'm a poorfag and haven't bought a airbrush yet. Still gotta paint the lower chassis and touch up A LOT of areas.

>>5786213
It didn't air in Eastern Europe

>>5786000
You're doing the SWAT Cats paint job, r-right?

>>5787402
Absolutely

>>5786388
Then I would recommend you Tamiya's sdkfz 222 as its sub 40€/$, fun to build and easy. Also takes less time to paint and weather it being small. It includes a turned barrel and PE for the cage so you can have an into to these materials.
Further than this it depends of what you feel like to build, because I could recommend you to buy tamiya jsdf type 90 (post war) or their panzer 4 ausf h because I can get them for like 20-30 € in my local hobby shop stock clearance but normally this kits run for like 40-a lot €. I've said tamiya because they always deliver even if it's a very old product (taking into account obvious age related fuckeries) but they tend to be expensive, also check their jagdpanzer 4 l70 as is a extremely good kit. Your next best be its trumpeter, but their "old" releases are a bit iffy in some areas, their kv 1 series are cheap and quite good. Hope it helps, also check in scalemates a kit before buying to get a better idea and alternatives

>>5786531
Looks good.
Do you hand brush with tamiya paint?
With my experience it acts like shit, and as far as I know they are not meant to be hand brushed

>>5784602
please post size comparison

>>5785633
how did you attach it to the base? just glue the track?

>>5787491
Yeah I hand brush with tamiya currently. I find that it isn't too bad once the model is primed, if unprimed, it takes like 2-3 fucking coats of paint to have a solid color, when primed, it pretty much needs just a basic coat with some touchups.

>>5787705
this one is not attached yet, but normally I would glue it with CA directly to the base

>>5786202
>Not liking the Turbokat
End yourself fampai

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>>5786000
It has been done of a tomcat base

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>I just wanted to buy some pigments and the chipping fluid
I lack self control and I was curious how to make the weathering phase even lazier…
Also I was going to buy the miniart su-122 and a panther f (still planning to) but got a cheeki breeki afghan fever and ended buying the btr-80 on whim. Either soviet-afghan war or the Russian motorized unit stationed at Berlin if I can get more info about it to make a nice companion to the chieftain or perhaps do a world in conflict (check out the game, it’s a cold war gone hot rts) scenario might be more interesting with a literal battle for berlin 2 electric boogalo

>>5788315
oh_boy_here_we_go.png

>>5787457
Thanks! ill definately look into those.

Ferdinand almost done, just need to do the tracks and will be finished at last
>>5788315
>panel lines with sharpie
>those unions
>sprue cut marks with little to no sanding
>0.01% painted
I’m not an expert in gundams but this finishing level is standard or you are just lazy (i really don’t know if people paint them)?
>>5788340
Glad to help, the 222 is a blast to do
>>5786424
Can you post a pic of it with the lights on? Also the fiber is lighted up from a led in the base trough the stand or it’s all internal?
>>5786531
Looks good but a bit thick on some edges, I used to hand brush my models with tamiya too before I bought the airbrush, the key to big surfaces is spraying them with a can to save paint and time (and some sanity also) or just doing layers as you said but it can end uneven and a bit blotchy
>>5785633
>tinyyy
Great detailing work for the scale, looks really cute for an afv

>>5788373
Nah, even by gundam standards, that guy did a bad job.
And to answer you're question, yes, there are a number of people who do paint them.

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>>5788315
you can do better son

>>5788380
Thanks I was a bit confused to what standard hold it.
With just a bit of putty and sanding he would enhance the model a lot, then primed in grey and spray canned with basic masking would cover it, also some panel wash like those used in aircrafts would finish it really nice and easy

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>>5788373
Fiber optic will go through the base disguised as a fueling cable. Not sure what to do about the led wires yet, but there are three separate ones coming out the bottom

>>5788136
Please report back on how the mud effect paints worked. I'm Interested.

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>>5788373
And engines lit. Because of an issue with a loose led, one is slightly brighter than the other. Might try a wash or something to tone it down

>>5788136
If you're wanting to weather, don't do Berlin - chances are, as it was the cold war, not a huge amount of weathering would fit that role.
Definitely looking forward to updates on this, I love BTRs. I've got a Zvezda BTR-80A I need to work on somewhere.

If I'm doing brush painting of a tank model should I do it before I put it together or after?

>>5788523
Depends on the model.

>>5788483
Put some damage on the dimmer engine pod, so it looks like it's just putting out less energy in general.

So i'm doing my first model ever and I have a question. When i cut the piece off the spruce tree it's leaving behind a tiny whitish off-color plastic mark.

Is there an easy way to get rid of that or do i just have to paint over it after smoothing?

>>5788832
Paint. Sanding and filing can help too.

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Can't tell if this is proper thread but I finally sat and built this Sprukit's Master chief iv'e had for almost a year.

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>>5788877
He's pretty good articulation wise and looks really good.
Comes with an Assualt Rifle, DMR and 2 Pistol's.

>>5788832
Get a pair of high-quality, flush plastic nippers.

Get a #2 exacto blade, change blades frequently. After you cut clean up the rest of the nub with the Xacto carefully, then sand with a fine grit sandpaper.

>open up tamiya abrams kit
>notice a ton of rucksacks and wrapped blankets that I want to put on my other models now

I want to build this kit, not cannibalize it on the spot. I guess there's a kit to get these accessories separately?

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Finally found the time to begin painting the Z 43

Quick question before I go to bed: What do you recommend for stripping Tamiya acrylic paint from a model? I want to redo some paint on some old models with an airbrush when I get one. If this is in the guide just let me know since I'll read it tomorrow.

>>5789201
There are special products for that.
AK makes a "Paint Stripper" and Revell has a Color Remover.
Those would probably be your first choice
(Regular solvents can attack the plastic)

>>5788914
of course there is.

>>5788914
http://www.squadron.com/1-35-Meng-Modern-US-Military-Individual-Load-Carry-p/mmsps015.htm

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I fucked up a bit with the dusting, I didn't know how to use the "nature effects" Kursk soil and used too much. It looks too weathered, which i like it, but the battle only lasted between July and August so I'm not sure of how dirty they were. The Ferdinand 124 which I've reproduced was a survivor later converted to a elephant so I think I can get away with it.
Now for the test with the splashes
This is Kursk soil (kinda like a weird enamel paint. use very littlel and then blend with thinner) and pigments, I like the effect but I used too much I think and ended up accumulating everywhere

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>>5788459
I'll use dry earth and loose ground splashes, but not the mud (in the btr I'll try it as is thick as fuck)
Starting with the lighter color dry earth splashed with and old brush and airbrush

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>>5789585
Thinned down a to make a background, also you can thin the off looking splashes or make rain marks with it
Fucking 4chan turning images

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>>5789589
And the second dry earth splash, let it dry and then the loose ground to make the newer dirt. It looks really good irl

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Bought this KV-2 kit from Tamiya on a whim and I've never done a model build before. I've watched a few videos on model building while I'm waiting for it to be delivered, but I figured I'd ask you guys what I need.

Figure I'll need glue with a super fine applicator, some sort of fine sand paper, an x-acto knife, and finishing clay stuff? Any brand recommendations? And I'll be paint brushing since I don't have an airbrush.

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>>5789598
When it's dries a little bit more I'll move to the front
>>5788483
I kinda like it more the dimmed side (atleast form the pic) maybe you could disconnect leds from the brighter side? Or do what >>5788553 said but the downside is that if you didn't plan to do damage it might be a bugger. The cables/lighting system could be hidden making the base taller perhaps
>>5788491
You are right, the units stationed in Berlin were quite clean (except during maneuvers but meh) and well mantained. I'll do the Afghanistan version which gives more openings to battle damage and wear, I've ordered some "star decals" of btrs in Afghanistan as the trumpeter kit has markings for an omoh unit, a spetnaz one (?) which I don't know where or when was this supposed to be deployed and other that I have no idea what is it but has the "new" flag of Russia (pic related of the ones included)
Link for the aftermarket ones
http://star-decals.net/35-882.html
I don't know yet of the quality of these but looks quite neat and the dude is helpfull and chill, also has variety of options if you aren't happy with te ones in the kit

>>5789609
Tamiya Cement / Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya Finishing Abrasives
Tamiya Modeler's Side Cutters
Tamiya Craft Knife
Tamiya Basic type Putty
Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colour
Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
Tamiya Acrylics and Enamel range with X-20 and X-20a thinners respectively
Tamiya Modeling Brush HG


You get a +10 to accuracy and +5 to build speed if you use the full set.

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>>5789609
Here's a pic of the most basic equipment you gonna need. Tamiya tools are really fancy, yet extremely expensive so buy something good but cheaper at you hobby shop or Amazon. Sanding papers of grids 400/600/900/1200/1500/2000 or sanding sticks of the same or similar grids. For gluing tamiya super thin, some other more thick (revell in my case) and some cyanocrylate (superglue) type of glue. Then paints and brushes, oils etc but first the basics

>>5789638
>>5789642
I think I'm going to hold off on Tamiya stuff for the moment just because of their price and slow shipping, but still good info. Thanks.

>>5789648
I would still recommend at least getting their extra thin cement. Plus, you can probably find that at any hobby shop.

>>5789659
Yeah, I'll be sure to get some if it's at the shop. Just don't want to wait another week for shipping.

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>>5789631
Done with the weathering

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>>5789864
I lost my fucking pencil to make the last metallic details, tomorrow I'll have to buy a new one

>>5789201
Windex. I use windex to clean Tamiya off anything, works instantly and is very easy to clean up. I also use it as a cheap cleaner for airbrushing to change colors or just clean it after I'm done.

You can get large gallon things of it at lowes / home depot if it's a large model, otherwise just spray it on and it will work very quickly.

>trying to build tank i got
>two pieces are supposed to lock i n via little nobs and holes they go into
>can't for the line of me to get it flush sealed

I can't tell if i'm doing something wrong or if this is not supposed to be flush or if the part is just slightly defective

>>5789990
a pic of whatever the fuck you're talking about would really help

>>5789992
It's a cannon breach of a Chieftain Tamiya model. I feel ike it should be flushed since it's part of the cannon, but idk it's like a tiny tiny crack between the two piece that's pretty visible desu.

>>5789995
Ah, putty and sanding then. Or an aftermarket metal cannon if its really bad or have money to burn

>>5789867
you will destroy your airbrush's chrome lining.

>>5789648
>>5789638

Anon please. While Tamiya is certainly not bad, there are cheaper alternatives.

Let me ask first: Is this the 1:35 KV-2 or is it the 1:48 kit (with the metal hull)?

Get either Tamiya Extra Thin or Revell Contacta Professional as plastic glue. Both come in a bottle with a thin metal nozzle. (If it ever clogs, hold a lighter to its tip until a small amount of smoke comes out and it is clear again).

Get a small side cutter like an electrician would use. No need to buy a modellers side cutter for 5x the price of a regular one. You can find these in your local hardware store for less than $2 i guess. AliExpress has them for that price at least.

http://de.aliexpress.com/item/Practical-Electrical-Wire-Cable-Cutters-Cutting-Side-Snips-Flush-Pliers-Hand-Tools-P00337/32668316632.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_8,searchweb201602_1_10056_10055_10049_10017_405_404_407_10040,searchweb201603_4&btsid=0d2ad390-e047-4803-8514-e50ce6f66645

>sand paper
Either get nail file "sticks", or a cheap set of diamond files (less than $5 on AliExpress)

>knife
hardware store/aliexpress

>finishing clay
Any kind of putty. I use Revell "Plasto" which is just that: putty. Tamiya is just as good.


As for paint: Vallejo has a great range of paint suitable for both, airbrush (you want to upgrade eventually) and brush.

>>5790116
>paying double the price for shitty bottom of the barrel nippers
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/ND00337-Practical-Electrical-Wire-Cable-Cutters-Cutting-Side-Snips-Flush-Pliers-Hand-Tools/32667470179.html

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>>5789642
>yes goy, don't buy good tools, buy shitty tools first, then better tools when you notice the problems, then finally good tools when you know what you want

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>>5790151
I just linked the first one i saw.

>>5790157
When i was around 12 my dad gave me a pic related so i could build the Revell 1:72 Stug IV i bought. I still have it and never had to buy a new side cutter. I have it over 18 years now.

I doubt a below $5 cutter would hold that long

[spoiler]note the cut off tips so i wouldn't stab myself lel[/spoiler]

>>5790116
It's the 1:48 one, can't attest to the hull since I haven't received it yet.
Thanks for the tips though.
Not sure if I'll be getting the airbrush since I'm kind of playing this whole thing by ear, but if I keep going I'll think about getting one.

>>5790195
I have the 1:48 one myself, it has a metal lower hull.

So you need a super glue for it too. Plastic glue wont stick but any kind of cheap super glue from your hardware store will work.

>>5790203
Good to know.
How'd you like yours?
Build quality and stuff?
Have a picture of it?

Hey guys, i've got a couple of quick questions i hope you can help me with. First up i use Mr Hobby Mr Cement S for gluing and i don't have a problem doing the whole brushing it on a join capillary action thing but i've seen people use tamiya extra thin kind of like the thicker cement i.e. painting it on a part and then pressing it in place. I can't for the life of me get that to work with the Mr Cement is it worth picking up a bottle of the tamiya stuff?

Second question, from what i've read to use oils as a wash i need to thin with white spirit (uk) i believe its called mineral spirits in the us however i tried some on a piece of scrap and it ate away at the paint and gloss coat(tamiya and gunze acrylic) so i'm not sure what else i can use to thin it.

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How much is too much glue? I'm using Tamiya's thin cement and all their manuals i see say use glue sparing but i have no clue how much is too much.

Will my shit actually fall off if I use too much?

>>5790290
1. Tamiya super thin can do what you describe, although normally is better to use a thicker one for this but it works atleast for me if the revell is clogged and don't feel like burning it. I used to have the tamiya standar glue (orange markings) and it was a really good one also (in case you want a thick glue with applicator similar to the super thing)
2. Ak and ammo mig make white spirits for scale modeling (~6€ 100 ml) which don't give any problems, it's a bit expensive compared to what you can buy at the hardware store. You can buy some there and start a trial and error as not all white spirits have the same purity and see which ones don't damage the plastic, paints, etc. I use a combination of both: ak to apply it on the model and hardware store white spirits/acetone (different chemical, don't use it on models) to clean brushes/airbrush

>>5790329
Dip the brush, wipe excess off on the inside of the bottle, apply. It's literally a liquid solvent for plastic, use sparingly.

>>5790330
OK i think i'll pick up a bottle of the standard tamiya then and play around with some more white spirits. Thanks very much for your help.

>>5790329
If you pour that shit on, too much plastic will melt and you can deform the plastic, losing detail and potentially making the pieces weaker and soft. That'll only happen if you get really stupid with the glue though.

>>5790468
if it melts the plastic can it be used to remove seams after the fact?

>>5790479
Yes, but often you're still going to have to use putty

Anybody got a recommendation for a website to buy kits? i do mostly armor if it helps

>>5785614
I use a Badger Anthem. Its quality far outstrips my skill. And, as a nice bonus, Tri-City Paint Global and hobby shops either stock or have access to Badger components.

Is this the thread to talk about Kotobukiya Zoids (HMM line/Customize Parts parts specifically) or should I keep to the gendums thread?

>>5774244
That's a beautiful shipwreck model. Would've liked to see some clear resin over the water though.

>>5790575
Then read the fucking thread.

>>5790567
Gundam thread fits that much more, and it's already discussed there.

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my father bought this bismarck set and asked me to built for him, my question is how do I paint it? I do have some experience building gunplas, but never actually worked with ink on them. Is there a right amount of water I have to mix with the paint so it doesn't get too thick? should I mix half paint half water or should I use straight out of the can?

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Why build 70s models when you could buy a 2010s 3d printer and print out planes, tanks, and ships?

>>5790715
my work has a 3D printer that's i've tried to play around with to make tiny models, and it's hard to do desu. Getting a model any where near accurate as a Tamiya, etc brand is pretty damn tough and takes a really long time to do to get it right.

Also to make hollow'd out objects is really tough too and you have to model is in a special way and then patch it after done. The worst part of all is that unless you make the pieces seperately you can't put things on the inside like you can with some models that allow for tiny motor and batteries, which adds to the time it takes to make the damn thing.

desu I think it's only worth while for custom larger models that you're gonna use like an RC car or some shit and is worth the vast amount of effort in modeling and getting every detail right.

>>5790625
>1:1200
Oh boy, that thing looks like a lump of plastic, not in a good way... Honestly, just have fun and do it whatever way you want, it's your first model don't worry about fucking up anything. Thinning paint is something that is best learned by experience though. I don't know the thinner ratios for revell paint, if it's acrylic you want to thin it to a "milk-like" consistency. Paint it in thin layers, it might first appear to go on transparently, but you paint a layer, let it dry, then paint another and build up the color.

>>5790715
70s models? What do you mean by that?
I know you're baiting, but still, I'll bite. First off, 3D printing has its limits, and there are some things that injection molding does much better. First off, it's much cheaper, 3D printing is not only incredibly time-consuming, but many 3D printers still print in a layered fashion that is inferior to traditional injection molding technology. I think in the future as the materials used in 3D printing get more and more advanced, it will become a good resource for those with the means to create their own kits however. People are already doing it today, in fact there was some guy that came out with a 1:35 Renault R35 that is 100% 3D printed, but the kit itself is like $300 total due to the process used to make the kit.

I think 3D printed parts may start to replace things like Resin parts, I would also expect to see more garage-kit type things in the future that are 3D printed. Mass production though is probably unlikely due to how much easier and faster injection molding is. They have also made a lot of advances recently with injection molds, such as slide molding.

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Put a gloss coat of future over everything to protect the paint and prep for weathering. Going to let it cure overnight before I start.

>>5790747
>if it's acrylic you want to thin it to a "milk-like" consistency. Paint it in thin layers, it might first appear to go on transparently, but you paint a layer, let it dry, then paint another and build up the color.
got it! gonna give a try early tomorrow!

Northampton class?

>only one company seems to make Tortoise models and it's over $100

;_;

>>5790843
but it's Meng

>>5790815
>Northampton class
Close, most of the US Heavy Cruisers look pretty similar.

It's the Indianapolis.

>>5790853
>>5790815
Yes, it's the Indianapolis, specifically the Academy kit with a Pontos aftermarket set.

So it seems my Tamiya Chieftain Mk5 model doesn't come with a manlet. Are these hard to make or are there premade ones for this?

>>5790870
>doesn't come with a manlet
Just go down to your local Gym anon, you'll find plenty of compensating manlets there that you can add to your chieftan.

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>>5790210
I liked building it alot. Very good kit quality and it fit together almost perfectly. The only odd thing was the metal lower hull. You need super glue to get the road wheels in place, the upper hull is attached with a pair of screws.

I did build mine for wargaming, thats why it has a base.

>>5790715
because 3d printed stuff looks like shit, or, if its really high quality stuff, its price is absurd.

>>5790715

Because Mr. Troll Frogposter at least for me the enjoyment of scale modeling comes more from the building than the finished product. If all I wanted was just a plane or a race car or something I would just go buy a completed model where the quality shits all over anything 3D printing could ever even dream of reaching.

have anyone of you heard about separate track links(like friulmodel) for 1/72 scale? metal, resin, whatever.

Does anybody know where to get hold of future in the UK for a decent price? I've seen it on amazon but it's around £14 for a bottle and i'm a little reluctant/Jewish to spend that much.

>>5790715
And design them in cad.

3d printers are shit, stereo lithographys whats used for real detailed stuff.

now fuck off with your bait

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>>5790926

>>5789864
>>5789866
I really like it. The heavy chipping worked out in the end.
>>5790756
Love the detail, and the paint job, on that ship. Will be fun to see the completed kit.

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>>5791116
That's a really cute KV-2.
I think I want to give mine a winter paintjob.

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Ferdinand done. Ir was fun to try the weathering products. Quite pleased with it, although the chipping and weathering are quite heavy handed but a month fighting against a force that doubles your numbers and surviving that would leave the afv fucked up.

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>>5791555

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>>5791559

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>>5791563

>>5791555
Very nice work. What kind of products were you using?

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>>5791564

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>>5791568

>>5791566
>>5788136

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>>5791570
I really need to buy a real camera and some white paper for background soon™
>>5791566
Thanks. Painting:
Vallejo grey and black primers (preshading)
Tamiya xf60 for dunkelgelb
Tamiya xf13 for green
Coat of vallejo glossy varnish
>decals
Coat of vajello satin varnish to protect
Weathering:
A mig 1511 filter for German yellow
Oils and white spirits to enrich the surface more
Chipping with vajello 70822 black brown
Vallejo black, sepia and grey acrylic washes for pin washes (I didn't like them as I prefer enamel for the control)
A mig 1203 streaking grime
Ak 013 rust streaks
A mig 1400 Kursk soil for general dusting
A mig 1750 dry earth for dry mud
A mig 1752 loose ground for the newer mud
A mig 1408 fresh engine oil for the oil around the motor and fuel stains
Maybe I've forget something but that's the general list in order of what I've used, feel free to ask about them or the model
>>5791297
Thanks, I was a bit worried that I over done it, but with the oils and the dusting they look great and dont stand out that much
>>5791170
Right now only this
http://shop.okbgrigorov.com/product/163/1-72-tracks-for-m3-m4-family-we210.html
Aber or eduard used to do but I'm not sure

>>5791591
Also pigments:
Gun metal
Track rust
Russian soil
A bit of Europe earth
>>5790756
Looks really neat, in other photos I was going to say that the grey looked to bluish/dark (I'm not an expert in ships but American ones look like light grey if I had to describe them) but now looks more like them, I guess it was the lighting

>>5791591
What kit is that?

>>5791743
Dragon 6133 Ferdinand, it's an old model (2000 or 01 I think) it has some issues in the hull (warped sides) and the barrel (a fucking nightmare to set straight and seamless), also the decals are thick and extremely brittle due to their age but workable although I'd recommend some aftermarket ones and hand painting the division markings. Overall easy and quite good, but lacks detail in general, the tracks/wheel assembly can be a little tricky and do the hull weathering before gluing the tracks

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Applied thinned down washes. It's really subtle, so don't expect to see much on the pic. It does make the Zimmerit stand out though. I will drybrush again to strenghthen the effect.

>>5787633
I didn't have a banana at home, so apple for scale.

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>>5791780
I built the Tamiya Elefant a while ago when I was still learning what weathering was.
It was one of the most enjoyable builds I ever did and it still has a special place on my shelf. Might not be a Ferdinand but what the heck.

>>5791780
Cool, I was thinking about getting a dragon Elefant SdKfz 184

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Ain't no rest for the wicked. The btr is really detailed, I'm surprised, the suspension is beautifully done and has a pretty decent interior for what I can see. A burned down btr could be pulled out with minimal aftermarket
>>5791830
>>5791844
I cant see shit in that pic but as you said subtle weathering might suit more the sturmtiger, did you do acrylic or enamel?
Also the elephant isn't that bad, it reminds me of my old models. All painted and nothing else just like their box photos, I was so scared of fucking them up as they were expensive and could buy a lot. Those old days...

>>5791901
Couldn't*

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>>5790625
>1:1200

jesus how small is that thing?

>>5791921
It's for the Ultimate Battleship Edition.

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No historical ships ? ..guis

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The british pride

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Also have a boss mustang coming sometime.. engine built on that, rest is still in pieces

>>5791956
building this bastard atm in wood for a relative.
nothing to see atm tho its still just piles of pieces.

>>5791960
Have fun doing the strings.. lol
The revell model came with a guide. Ended up doing one row and supergluing the knots shut.

>>5791901
Enamel washes. Namely Mig's brown for dark yellow and dark brown for green.

I noticed the point about not seeing shit aftet uploading. I'll try to get a better picture tomorrow.

>>5791972
after*

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Put a dark brown / black MIG wash thinned down even more over most of the ship. In the process of cleaning it up, then I'll do some oil weathering and streaking.

>>5791235
I believe it's called "Klear" in the UK, you should be able to buy it there at a local store.

If not, just use another acrylic gloss varnish, it's all pretty much the same stuff. For example, Tamiya X-22 is a good one.

So i'm doing my first model and there appears to be battery icons on the bottom of the hull in my tank model.

Is there some motor that goes into these things? It's a Tamiya model btw. I can't really see how it could drive the tracks since the sprocket has no connection inside the hull, atleast not an easy one. Maybe the turret, but idk how you'd attach it to some gear in an easy way to rotate

>>5792148
Old Tamiya kits used to be motorized, some newer ones are as well (Mk V MALE kit comes to mind). Don't know if they even sell motors for the old kits anymore, I doubt they do though.

>>5792172
interesting, I'm looking at a few of them and it doesn't seem to specifiy specific models they are used in. Do I basically have to just buy one that fits my model and seems like it would be capable of driving my tank given the tracks can work with it?

>>5792172
As far as i know the motors were included in the kits for the japanese market. They removed them from the kits for the western market.

I've recently wanted to give this hobby a serious try and decided to do painting with a brush using a mix of tamiya and testors enamels.

Problem is I suck at thinning the paint and I can't really tell if I get it right. Are there any good Brushing guides around that could probably help?

>H114 isn't a thing anymore

What's a good color for 80's soviet green, then? I use enamels.

>>5792842
Testors' Model Master's has a decent line of WWII Soviet armor colors that may work for you. That's the only enamel I can think of off the top of my head. GSI would be lacquer and Vallejo is (to the best of my knowledge) acrylic.

Tamiya has an enamel line but I don't know how robust it is, but that might be worth a look as well.

Is there a particular name for tweezers that open up when you squeeze and holds firmly when no grip is applied?

>>5793092
reverse tweezers maybe?

>>5793096
Stay beautiful, Anon.

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>>5791954


>Indianapolis.
>Not historical.

>>5792487
That would be an awkward guide to read or see. Just try it yourself on a useless piece of plastic or the "unseen" sides of the parts

>>5791956
>>5791954
Did you do these two?

>>5787983
dear lord people still have this around?
i did this model 10 years ago.
first time ever working with plasticard and such.

for the record i used a f-16 vista i belive, and used the extra control planes to shape the triangular intakes and fins.

>>5793092
A clamp?

Trying to make a simple circuit that flashes 4 LEDS (2 at a time) and can run off 3 volts.

electronics are hard.

What do you guys think is the most popular/knowledgeable scale modelling discussion board/forum?

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>>5793092
You mean like these?

I don't know what they're called, I got them from my mom who used to make jewelry.

>>5793500
Try "Clamp Tweezer" "Locking Tweezer" will net tweezers that have a mechanism to actually lock them in place, applying pressure, whereas "clamp tweezers" exert positive gripping force unless you apply force to separate the splines.

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>>5793530
You mean like these then? They are surgical clamps I think.

>>5793532
Those look a lot more medical-like (forceps) than beauty or hobby or engineering "tweezers"

They also look vaugely German.

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>>5791901
>>5791972
Here's the pic I promised.
Washes are most noticeable where the armor plates are welded together.
The Zimm has a subtle wash too.

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The btr is quite quick to build, even faster if you don't do the interior which is something I'm debating in case I leave hatches open. The instructions booklet have some mistakes referencing parts and leave some unmarked (says g30 but is g31 and leaves f18 out but you have to put it to support the main doors) and the interior fitting is a bit meh compared with the exterior, but it wasn't mean to be a highl detailed here so whatever.
>>5793566
Well, they are really subtle. To the point I would say there isn't any in some areas. But I must say that I love dirty and gritty models so it's just my opinion. The tetra fire extinguisher being a post 43 tank I think it should be dunkelgelb but it's true that as long there where existences they equipped the earlier (panzer) grey ones. Awesome detailing and paint work, every time I see it closer I discover new little things. What model is the base and what aftermarket did you use?

>>5793617
Seems like a really nice tank you got there.
I'd suggest only doing a partial interior, so there's sonething to see when leaving a hatch open.
Don't go overboard with it except if you want to have a "window" in your tank like I do.

The Sturmtiger is Tamiya's model. I used:
-Friul Tiger mid/late tracks
-Voyager Sturmtiger set (exterior PE and resin barrel)
-Cavalier Zimmerit for Sturmtiger (shouldve gotten Atak but whatever it's good)
-Verlinden Engine bay (HL230 P45)
-Aber Sturmtiger Interior
-Afv Club Sturmtiger interior conversion kit
-Afv Club Sturmtiger 38cm Ammo
-Royal Model Tiger I transmission
-Aber 1,4m German aerials
-A shitload of sweat, blood, and frustration
In retrospect, I've sorta gone overboard.

Yeah I'll use what they give and paint it, I'll put the upper hull and paint better/weather what can be seen from the hatches. It would be nice if they gave a spare tire to put somewhere, maybe I should buy some resin ones but I didn't plan to put more money/things that what already come with the kit except the decals
>>5793653
>all that
Wew, talk about detailing. I personally think it's worth it as you've done a great work so far. Some years ago I was so close to buy the afv club one, but I change it in the last moment for a tamiya panther with pe zimmerit just before I stopped doing scale models. Now I lost the fucking box and the panther sits there poorly done and half finished, a reminder to always finish my kits in case something gets lost. (That was an off topic rant but it's strange how we almost ended with the "same" build, one in progress and the other just stalled forever)

>>5793653
You've done a really nice job so I'd say it was a reasonable investment. Are you going to keep the cross as clean as it is?

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>>5793653
>tank

>>5793680
There's gotta be a way to salvage the half- done panther.
Maybe a wreck? Possibly an exotic kitbash "fuck historical accuracy" project?
>>5793732
Excuse me, I meant to say plane*
>>5793692
Nah, next step is working with oils.
I figure that if the dot fading doesn't blend the cross in, the streaking will.

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>>5793755
It's an APC, you little shit

>>>>5793136
We all know the second world war was a set up by the jews to get oppression points on tumblr

new thread when?

Where do you guys get your models cheap, Online, at a hobby shop or what

>>5794763
Ebay directly from Asia (HK, Korea or JP) or Auctions with new/unbuilt kits.

>>5794632
there you go brother

NEW THREAD
>>5794770
>>5794770
>>5794770