Gunpla/Plamo General

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***GM Group Build***
Rules:
Pick an HG GM, and paint and customize it. For it to count as a GM, it literally just has to have GM in the name of the MS on the box, otherwise, no, it doesn't count. As far as customizing it, I'm going to place a limit on that. The limit is 50% additions to the kit.
To define 50%, look at it like this, you could take a GM Custom and replace the arms (including shoulders), legs, and backpack and I'd call that 50%. I'm not counting handheld bits in that. If you're unsure of something please ask in IRC, the thread, or email.

Due Date: 8/12
Submissions go to [email protected]
Submission format
Please submit photos in jpg via a compressed file (zip, rar, or 7zip), please don't link images to imgur or photobucket or the like. Please also name yourself, even if it's a pseudonym. Also indicate your participation in the contest below.

***Contest***
Instead of doing just a generic group build this time, there's going to be a prize pack. The prize pack will contain a GM Sniper K9, a set of glass paint mixing jars, and a Tamashii stand (sized for HGs or RDs). Shipping is at my expense.

Rules for the contest:
If you wish to enter the contest I'm going to actually need some proof. Please send me pictures of your kit as a work in progress and a final product with a timestamp and your email address. I hate to put his burden on you guys but this is the internet and people suck.

Judging
Regardless of who wins the contest proper, all entries will be made available on a blog post on Saturday, August 13th. Actual judging will take place Saturday as well, with the winner announced that evening. The winner will be contacted via email and be given a two day grace period for responding. PLEASE USE AN ACTIVE EMAIL WHEN SUBMITTING!

So I just placed an order for plaplate sheets. It comes with .20, .30, .40 and .60, what task should I be using each sheet type for?

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>>5748213
let your imagination guide you

>>5748213
Step one
Take a sheet of plaplate
Step two
Is it thicc enough?
If no, repeat step one

>>5748219
>>5748221
Seems simple enough. Do I need to buy a hobby razor set or will my hobby knife be enough?

>>5748243
>hobby razor set
wtf is that

>>5748243
I have a scriber so I use that. I believe hobby knifes and scissors can be used too.

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>>5748248
Here's a picture from online. I've seen them at the LHS, so that's why I was asking about it.
>>5748249
Oh good, I've got a Tamiya scriber already.

>>5748255
You could also get one of the paper cutters that use an arm.

>>5748255
>razor set
that looks like a saw with a spare blade t b h

>>5748281
>evading the word filter

Do any of you have experience with Mega Size Models, and if so, would you recommend them? I kind of want a huge RX-78 or Zaku to serve as my 'centerpiece.'

>>5748474
Nope, but I'd love me a Mega Size Zaku II, myself.

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>>5748474
I would say oversized HG's but the HG has better articulation.

All it really is good for is standing there looking big and badass.

>>5748474
They are giant bricks that looks badass just standing there. Get one if you want it.

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I heard zoids are now poseable? Anybody can suggest the good price range I should look for?

>>5748733
They've been posable for a while, and that one isn't a model kit.

>>5748738
What do you mean by that? It looks awesome though

>>5748740
The koto hmm line has been out for years. And the one in your pic is an action figure, not a model kit.

>>5748748
But can the model kits be posed like that?

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>>5748777
The newer HMM kits and the D-styles are both relatively posable. It varies by kit of course since it depends on their designs, but they are very different from the old mechanical gear kits.

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Should I do it?

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>>5748733
In addition to Koto's HMMs and D-Style kits, you could also look at Tomy's MSS line. They're 1/144 scale. Nicely articulated and detailed for their size. Some pieces come prepainted too. Here's a shot of the smaller MSS Shield Liger next to Koto's HMM version (which is 1/72 scale like the old motorized kits).

>>5748955
Clean up those nubs?

Yes.

>>5748955
No. Get the adorable Cupoche instead.
>>5742704

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>>5748777
I don't have any four-legged HMMs but it looks like they can.

I think the Shadow Fox is the cheapest, I've seen it around for less than 50 dolla. I gotta pick it up someday.

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>>5748474
They're big chunky High Grades. If they had a simple inner frame or space for an LED they'd be god tier, but the size is enough for a fun build.

>>5748955
Is that G3 sold separate anywhere yet?

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I'm just getting into this hobby and I love building the kits, never watched the show though. I find the aesthetic a little hit or miss.

How come all the mechs have retarded leg proportions? Are there any kits that don't look like pic related?

>>5750246
fuck, i really should cycle less

>>5750246
Almost all of them? Like 99% either have long skinny legs or beefy calves and no thighs.

>>5750282
But what kits differ from the usual "legs twice as big as the body" aesthetic? because it seems like most designs are either that or a "brick with a backpack" or some combination of the 2.

>>5750304
Mobile Worker, Guntank, Hygogg

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Group Build question, if I mix two GM's together, does that count towards the 50% ?

Just ordered all the kits I need for the group build and getting it shipped by DHL so should be here by early next week and i can start.

>>5750381
No, additional GM parts do not count (please send proof that it's GM parts).

>>5750381
>cancer cannon

>>5750417
Is gan Japanese for cancer or something? That shit keeps on popping up in Mandarake.

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>>5750425
Apparently it is

So what do you do with your boxes? I just started but they're gonna start piling up real soon.

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Someone took off with the rubber stamp bear guy patterns for the stamp rally at Gunpla expo sg...

>>5748474
I have the Mega Zaku. Fairly simple, as others said it's basically a large HG. Ratcheted joints but the limbs are so heavy it's basically confined to standing in the back of your display. Lots of water slide decals, some large enough to read some of the text. It is pretty cool that you snap whole runners together in a few steps. I don't know that I really recommend them, but I plan to get the Mega RX-78-2 to match it.

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>>5750515
Weeks back

>>5750518
>>5750515
Thanks australia

>>5750504
I put similar MS in one box and throw out the rest/smaller ones. All my zaku go in a PG box, GMs go in the MG box, etc

>>5750504
I put the manual, runners and any access accessories back in the box and keep them around. It works for now but I can tell it'll get out of hand someday and I'll look like a hoarder.

Which brings me to the question, what do other people do with the extras like hands, weapons, ect?

>>5750546
>what do other people do with the extras like hands, weapons, ect?
I keep them in zip-lock bags, but I'm slowly transferring them to segmented plastic containers. I like to organize the accessories by groups to save space, such as putting Graze accessories and 08th MS Team stuff together and such.

>building zakus

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>>5750546
>what do other people do with the extras like hands, weapons, ect?

Picked this up for ~$22 and it's great

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>>5750546
just got a set of these for $10 at Home Depot.

>>5750518
>bought an elf bullock
>discover damaged parts
>went to exchange
>discover the clear part has bubbles in it
>sift through a billion boxes to find that pretty much everything else had the same problem
>give up and settle for one that isn't too obvious

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New stuff
Neat backpack I guess

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Are the 00 1/100 kit getting reprinted next month? I can't seem too find the reprint list.

>>5750644
But if you bump one of those everything gets all jumbled up and you have to sort them again. Fuckin nightmare.

>>5750504
At first i kept everything. But at one point i realized i won't even look at the box or use any of the runners and decided to just toss them all out.

I only have a few box to keep the instructions and spare parts now.

>>5750660
Whoever designed that is colorblind

>>5750660
What a yucky color. And more bearguy of course.

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Finally started making the X2

>>5750717
what? no, all the dividers are sealed and its impossible for parts to get between the compartments.

>>5750660
Why blue clear parts? It's better if they went with orange. The blue just makes it look like someone wanted to do a hono custom and gave up half way/

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It's Kotabukya. What's the chance that the gold is going to look like shit?

Should I precomand this one or go for the chinese 1/100 Akatsuki ? They're more or less the same price right now.

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After a lot of drama, they arrived.

>>5750660
It's like they tried to make another Fenice but someone fucked up bad. I fucking hate the green/yellow combination something fierce, but Fenice still manages to look cool to me.

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>>5751100
>now with a free cap

>>5750660
I really like the sword but the shield/blade thing is a clusterfuck.

>>5750504
I keep every one to store the model in. Just started (slowly) cutting up some cushion foam trays to fill in the boxes and keep the models from breaking and getting scuffed.

>>5750660
I want to put that backpack on the age 2

>>5751075
What's this from?
I like Chinese akatsuki more

>>5751268
Majestic Prince.
I never saw the anime but I still like it. I don't even know why.

I just want to know if the gold is going to look like shit or not since I don't like painting

>>5751075
Gold 4 you look amazing.

I really need this and Red 5 in my life but I don't have nearly enough money for them.

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B&N at it again. A huge ass stack of dark edge at 25% off

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>>5751364
>Finding out I have a B&N gift card for 25 dollars
Oh baby. It's not enough to completely make a MG free, but it can cut the price of almost anything in half. What to get?

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>>5751388
Turns out B&N's website is fucking gay and the only real options I have are Fenice R MG or Edgy Exia MG. I would go to the actual store, but the closest one is an hour out. Heavyarms will have to wait for now.

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Anyone have experience with this kit? Found one at a local shop for a decent price.

>>5751590
They made an SD nightingale? Kawaii.

>>5751590
Isn't that a chinese knock-off SD? Like no official kit exists?

>>5751637
Resin converted to plastic by Model Comprehend.

>>5751590
Watch Prime92's review. But then again, like I always say, if you have to ask if it's worth it, then probably not.

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Post your guys progress on what you're workin on

>>5751643
>Resin
Try not to die anon.

>>5751658
>converted to plastic
Anon, please.

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>>5751653
Gonna give the Dullcote another day or two to sit before plugging it together and posting a NiceBlog.

So, did any of you filthy gaijin get the Kotobukiya limited FAG Jinrai with skin-coloured limbs?

http://www.kotobukiya.co.jp/information/information-80004/

Some of the extra parts don't fit together and you have to send in the postcard that comes with it to get the fixed version of the runners sent to you next month, for free. But only to Japan, of course.

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i-is that you cherno alpha?

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>>5751653

>>5751918
That's a weird looking Gouf. :3

>>5752248
Another one where I love the top but then those fugging legs happen. Needs ground type hips/legs, please.

>>5752117
I don't think anyone here did, but fuggin JDM

>>5752248

>>5752248

>This body
>Astaroth big arms
>Gusion legs

MAKE IT HAPPEN

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Dug around the spare parts bin and whipped up my build for the group build. I know the underslung EZSR gun's been done before but I love the way it looks.

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Better pic of the Heat Sword. Threw it together from one of the swords from the Amazing Red Warrior, a spare GM Bazooka, and a junker MG Aile Strike.

>>5752408
I hope this is being painted or panel lined at the very least. Can't say I'm a fan.

>>5752408
does that gundam have 4 fucking reactors? holy jej

>>5752279
Its actually a zaku 2. I removed the sides and cut the bottom giving it better range, but the gem kinda hinders it.

>>5751918
Looks great so far!

>>5752402
fugg, ez-sr parts are too ez
slap them on any build and it looks good

time for a change of plans

Yea the main thing is I can't decide between the nightingale or just getting a kamiki burning gundam. The store sells em for 45 and 35 cad respectively.

>>5752633
Nightingale

>>5752637
>>5751643
Whoops meant to reply. Its the sd nightingale from model comprehend. From what i saw looking online its an ok price for Canadian dollars anyways.

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>>5752450
Of course it's being painted and touched up on. Right now it's just a Powered Cardigan mixed with some spare GM limbs from a custom and a few weapos strapped on. As far as colorschemes go I'm either going with my personal Blue/Gray/Orange colorscheme or Olive Drab.

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And how I'd probably end up doing it in Olive Drab.

>>5752762
where lineart

>>5752767
nvm got it
thought it was under UC

When topcoating, is it best to spray piece by piece, or can you prebuild, and then break the gunpla down to sections like arms, legs, body, ect?

>>5752794
MG - build the frame, spray, spray armour pieces one by one

HG - build the joints, spray everything one by one

Static pose - pose how you want then spray

Gonna play with it/pose it everyday - only spray armour

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>>5752767
That lineart was just a GM Type C and the GM Powered slapped together. Have a cleaner lineart I just whipped up.

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Need to fix up the small scratch, and then get some more gold to give the forearms/spikes a better coat before painting it into its real colors (red/black with gold)

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>>5752889
Backside.

>>5752889
No, you need to strip the paint on the shoulders, arms, and hands. Is the black hand painted? It looks like you didn't apply masking tape properly either for the black, or even separate the parts to paint them.
The silver looks like spraycans, I know because I've used them a lot, if it is you have to be careful about how close you are to the piece and how much you're spraying as it comes on thick really easily.

>>5752889
>>5752894
That's not looking good dude

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>>5751653
Need to finish the legs over the next two days and then do some more touch ups, but it's getting there.

>>5752889
>>5752894
I hate to be that guy anon, but THIN YOUR PAINT

>>5753019
fuckin mint anon

>>5752889
Sand those nubs, brother. Both you and your gunpla deserve better.

>>5749535
Damn that looks awesome

PG GP01 is the most retarded fucking kit I've had the chance to build so far.

Have to fucking pick out 21 different fucking frames and use one piece from each.

Didnt Bandai have the concept of efficiency back then? Holy shit

>>5753162
It's probably efficient in the use of runner space.

>>5753034
Theres zero nubs. I made sure of it before i went to paint

>>5753021
>>5752931
I thinned right ans airbrushed. Don't use spraycans. As for the black i didn't really mask it right. And its still a wip, the silver on the arms aren't the final colors. Got like another week before its even done

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>>5753153
A Saber Tiger was my first Zoid as a kid, I kinda wanna get an HMM and paint it with the old burgundy and silver color scheme, but I feel like the HMM is too lanky to be a good smilodon and I'm not confident enough in my modding ability yet to bulk it up.

>>5753222
My bad, I thought those white things on the knees were nubs, but they're putty, aren't they.

>>5753230
No thats a reflection of the red paint. Plus its gonna be hidden from the kneecaps (which havent got painted yet)

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primed white, reassembled, put a little ink wash and bruised it up/worked it in with alot of scrubbin with brushes.
any advice on colours to splash in? im thinking of putting rust stains around the moving parts of the backpack, and the tubes.

>>5753389
>That red bleeding through everywhere.

When priming white over a vibrant color, prime a medium or light grey first. Then prime it white.

>>5753398
damn i didnt think that was still noticable. oh well next time i guess, thanks for the tip

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where the fuck did IBO even come from? These things are rad as fuck

>>5753401
its my first real paint, thats why i bought a 15 dollar kit haha

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>>5753404
Newer gundam series. Designs by Ebikawa, Washio, Gyoubu, Teraoka, and Shinohara.

The Graze is definitely Ebikawa's design. It absolutely screams his design aesthetic.

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bambo sticks and 2 packs of 25 ct clips are sooooo expensive. Im sure if i paint over this plastic, that the plastic would also be painted when i go to remove it. What could possibly go wrong :^)

>>5753550
depends if its undergated anon

>>5753570
Thats a hyakurin, which really isnt undergated

>>5753222
Just because you airbrushed doesnt mean it doesnt look like shit.

The OP wasn't kidding when he said I was gonna fuck up, now I have a G-Mess instead of G-Self.

>>5753019
Safety nubs

>>5753885
I have been made aware of them yes. Sticking with it though since I actually like the look.

Think it's a stupid idea though. Safety nubs ... Who do they expect to play with these? Childeren?

>>5753783
Got any better critisim than "looks like shit"?
Nearly everything is smooth as shit. And like i said its not even in final colors

>>5753899
Nubs on the v fin and similar pointy thin antenna serve two purposes.

It keeps the suggested age down which allows them to market to a wider audience.

And it thickens the part making it less likely to snap the thin tips off in transit.

>>5753908
Not him, but it looks like you got some orange peel texturing on the red, the black needs cleaning up, and the metallic colours look uneven and too flashy. Alternatively the metallic colours just may be amplifying unevenness in the plastic from sanding.

>>5753908
The red has a fair bit of orange peel on the chest, head and rear skirt. It's most likely the same throughout the entire model, but the blurry photo and poor lighting obscures the finer details. The black has some bleed through on the back of the legs and most likely on the front as well. The grey on the chest appears quite thick. I'm also apprehensive about the whole colour scheme in general. Gold is a great colour for accents, not for entire forearm sections. That's why the Phenex looks way too much but the Banshee destroy mode is much easier on the eyes despite both incorporating gold.

tl;dr it looks like shit

>>5752705
B

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>>5753908
imo you need to plan your scheme better.
the red and gold are too close in value (greyscale dark or lightness). also you need to tie in the gold somehow, it just sticks out too much imo.

>>5753997
see how there is abit of that yellow in the hair and face, and in the brown of the knife? thats what i mean by tying it in

>>5753935
>>5753916
Its not really orange peel. The paint i used gives that off for some reason. The black is an easy fix since it washes off with water. As for the arms can you niggas read? I said its not even done yet. My plan is to give the forearms a gold stripe in the middle

>>5754028
>Its not really orange peel. The paint i used gives that off for some reason.

Can you give us a better quality image of it then from a closer angle? Because right now, it looks like orange peel. Which would be caused by too much paint over too small of an area.

>>5754028
easy there anon, remember where you are. People not liking what you like is how most of us make a living here.

Like the other anon said, could you provide a better quality picture under better lighting circumstances (outside)?

Also what paint are you using? The red comes off as really quite coarse and thus looks like its not thinned properly (or like you put on waaaaay too much)

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>>5753389

>>5754049
Could be from spraying too much. I used testors red first than hit it with mr.color metallic red. Whenever i use mr.c. bad lighting gives the peel look. And i know where we are, shouldn't excuse shit reading comprehension. But at work so no can do on better pic

>>5752705
yeah almost certainly B or go for A with an asymmetric blue shoulder

>>5754087
you really need to paint it or give it another layer of primer, white primer has quite bad bleedthrough which is why some of your parts look pinkish

>>5754099
You asked why it looks like shit, we told you. Just because it isn't done doesn't mean that the stuff pointed out isn't valid and things you should focus on fixing first.

>>5754115
Thats true, but for the most part they thought i was going to keep it that way

>>5754152
>assuming you're not responding to >>5753916

>>5754152
It sounds like you're being a bit insecure.

>>5754206
A lil bit. Whenever i post a kit here, i either get ignored or just simply told "it looks like shit" like fuck one of the tripfags here doesnt fully paint his shit and he gets better worded replies than i do.
And yea after a bit I did get better constructed critism (which im gonna fix what was pointed out)
/blog

Are there any kits that have arms as big as their legs? I'm getting tired of these janky ass proportions

>>5754286
>I'm getting tired of these janky ass proportions
I'm getting tired of seeing this question. How about you head off to Dalong.net, or 1999.co.jp, or any of the multitude of websites that archive photos of kits, and fucking use your own eyes to decide on something. No one wants to give you suggestions.

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>>5751653
Adding some finishing touches to this armored core looking jobber.

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Finally got around to spraying some of the red bits.

>>5754396
All I see is a dreadnought.

Also are those the koto wild hands?

>>5754286
Basically any standard looking gundam are gonna have this proportions.
Your best bet is non gundam looking suits, like aquatic zeons kits.

Hey anons sorry for the shitty thumbnails and off topic.
But does anyone have the gold frame metal build?
Im having trouble attaching the backpack top peg into the torso for some raisin

Is there somewhere I can view all of the illustrations for the Mobile Suit Variations?

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>>5754286
When something is 18 meters tall, it's going to need big legs and wide feet to support that kind of weight. It's also important to make sure the AMBAC system works effectively in UC.

But since you asked

>>5754510
Yup, I got them to use with barbatos but they ended up looking too small. They fit perfectly in the graze ein so i ended up replacing the crappy default fists. And on the plus side it can wield koto weapons now

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>>5754286

If I was to make one as a gift to a nephew that will probably play with it a bit, is there anything I can do to make a kit a bit more durable? Maybe a bit of varnish finish to seal in the paint.

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Alright what am I in for?

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The Revive Gouf's machine gun hand appears to be held together via four balljoints at the base of the fingers...are they separatable like we used to do with old MG hands? If so, anyone got pics of it?

>>5755282
Fun.
Also be careful on the tail. I snapped a piece and now its shorter...

Two questions fellas:

1. I'm a sucker for fat suits. Is MG The O worth the high price of admission? I really love the design, but dat price....

2. I have the RX-78 3.0. Is it still worth getting the Origin one? It looks to be the most poseable so far, which seems nice, but is it that much of an advance over the 3.0?

>>5755082
>paint
Its fucked, get a MG or a metal build

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In a general sense what is better. Spray cans, or hand paints?

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I think I twisted the peg for the left hip armor, the paint made it too tight...

>>5755647
Depends on what you are trying to do. Detail painting? Handbrushing is better. Painting large areas and whole pieces? Spraycans are better.

Airbrush>spraycan for almost everything though.

>>5755664
Jesus that's a lot of orange peel. What kind of paint did you use?

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I need help /toy/, I found pic related for $7 at a thrift store, and most of the pieces seem to be sealed in bags and still on their plastic runners from what I can tell. Is it worth picking up to either flip it or build it?

Airbrush problem guys.

It was my first time spraying Future floor spray from my airbrush (Badger Patriot) and I sprayed at about the 10-15 PSI range. First coat was a light mist and things went fine.

I took apart my brush and cleaned it while waiting for the coat to dry and do the second coating. But when I went back to spraying the airbrush shot out the liquid when I just meant to use air. And bubbling was happening while I was spraying near the nozzle/needle cap. I tried with water, same deal. I've sprayed before this session with thinned acrylic paints and it has gone fine.

I assembled how I always have, what's going wrong?

>>5755772
You've reassembled it wrong. Probably not tightened the inner nozzle correctly. You may have over tightened it, if the inner nozzle sits too far back, you get air blowing back up into the cup (bubbling) or paint accumulating inside the outer nozzle (spatter and fluid).

>>5755875
Alright. So just keep reassembling until it's tightened correctly?

>>5755675
https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Lacquer-Paint-3oz-Revving/dp/B000UF3C6Y
I think the sparkly effect is intentional but just doesn't show up on camera well.

>>5755722
I would've bought it for seven dollars, that's cheap as hell.

>>5755925
I did but there's no motor and nobody with a replacement as far as I can tell. Wouldn't be a big deal if it weren't a huge brick that everything else attaches to.

>>5755772
>I took apart my brush and cleaned it
How did you clean it?

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Hows this for a color scheme?
Also started working on it for the group build. This'll be my first group build. I was originally going to add some GM III parts, but Im thinking I actually like it for this project as just a GM Cannon II with some customizations.

>>5755664
>>5755903
Not sure what I see about sparkles, but it really just looks like the most orange peeling I've ever seen and the light reflecting on it.

Looking at the link you posted, I'm guessing you probably sprayed too much of it/too close when that brand looks like it's meant for only a single pass. It looks like you could mask a bit better, like with the white tubes, as well. This would probably be best to chalk up to a good learning experience.

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r8

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>>5755903
I can sorta see the sparkle. Maybe get a pic of it in some gentle natural/overcast light.
Does wonders.

>>5755900
Yeah, don't over tighten stuff. The ips of both nozzles should be flush with each other.

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>>5755993
making some progress on my group build too, its still a long way to go but no problems so far.

>>5755962
Using Windex, I read that's useful for cleaning off Future. Just scrubbed it with a paper towel and q-tips dipped in Windex, and cleaned it again with water.
>>5755875
And it should only be those, the tightness/looseness between the spray regulator, head, and tip piece?

I had reassembled it a few times and the same results kept happening. But I don't see the parts as being dirty which might cause blockage. When I switched to a second tip that I had the problem lessened/stopped mostly at least, but I feel like the original tip shouldn't have been causing it either.

Was testing with water only, no paint or Future.

>>5755993
We will be competing with our Gm Cannon IIs brother

>>5756186
That's all I can think off. Perhaps the lacquer thinner or the cleaner you used ate the O ring on the nozzle and it's sitting too far back as a result when you tighten it.

>>5756201
Airbrush anon here, I honestly don't believe so. The Badger Patriot is meant to take any type of paint and shouldn't be having damage, especially considering mine is relatively unused. Before this session I'd only sprayed some thinned Tamiya acrylics and water through it.

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NiceBlog! Edition
Combat Armors Max 1/72 Roundfacer (24th Unit Kolchima Special)
Because why not and also yeah.

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>>5756430
I said it one already, I'll say it again. Max Factory's model-kit polystyrene is softer than Bandai's. Feels more buoyant too. Though the Kolchima Special's the 4th in the line, the base Roundfacer is the 2nd, and you can tell that it's still early.

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>>5756435
Runners are marked with only their letter and licensing, not what kit they're [originally] for.
There's also a tad of flash and a few small bumps, though the flash is for the most part nothing that will even be noticeable unless you prime it.

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>>5756440
The Special's a variation machine, which means yay extra/different parts.
You have one runner for the arm-mounted linear gun,
another runner for the turbosack and gun-mounting forearm panel,
a third runner that contains differently-colored shoulders (the normal Roundfacer's shoulders share the rest of the machine's primary color),
and... a fourth runner that has... the inner joint of the shoulder... in the same color... on a different runner...
Maybe they're different blends of polystyrene No No No this is a waste of space and plastic there is no reason they aren't together.

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>>5756448
Polycaps.
oooh hooo these polycaps.
They are dense, they are tough, these are much hardier than Bandai's.
But because of that it's a little (lot) more difficult to deal with the flash, especially if it's in a ball-joint's socket cup.
There's also quite a lot, and surprisingly most of them get used.

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>>5756458
(aah forgot to talk about the decals)
Decals are waterslides, and though I've not much experience with them, I'll say that they're stiff.
Soaking each one in water for a minute leaves no issue getting it off the paper and on the kit solidly (though I did use Micro Set to help keep them on),
but if you're going for full marking you'll definitely want to grab some Micro Sol as well: I had to use tiny scissors to cut an extra nub off that console decal in order for it to sit flat within its nook.

The cockpit/head is nice, but heavily clamshelled.
The canopy comes pre-painted which is a nice touch, and there is a sliding gimmick with the sensor camera to give the canopy room to open/hold the canopy closed.
The side consoles are separate pieces, which lets MF show some more detail on the inside.
The pilot figure is supposed to be glued to the seat though, so I said nuts to that, glued a small peg in the hole in his back, and drilled/carved a slot in the seat to hold the peg.
... I went just a little too wide with it so he's still a bit loose in there.

>>5756472
(aah keep forgetting things)
Seams to weld/fill: main clamshell seam (be careful not to glue sliding sensor camera in place)

The upper torso is a clamshell core surrounded by the outer armor.
Max Factory does a sometimes decent job of hiding seams in natural panel separations, and the sides of upper torso shows that best.
Those red bits are actually individual colored parts instead of being decals, and you even have slip covers that go over the swing-out shoulders, though sand them if you're going to paint, there seems to be only enough room for two layers of coat.
Seams to weld/fill: two small seams on the bottom of each side, the two top corners of the backplate (good luck with those two, the only peg-hole connections are less than halfway up the part.

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>>5756486
[motherFUCKER]

noob here, is there a site or gallery I can go to to quickly look at all the different mobile suits? I'm looking for specific parts to make a custom and I don't know the series well enough to intuitively know which kits to buy

>>5756500
It's in the guide. Dalong.net

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>>5756488
The shoulder joints are a bit odd, one polystyrene peg goes into a polycap, the other into a polystyrene hole.
The elbow has rotating joints at both ends which is kinda nifty.
The forearm is a bit odd: a clamshell core that slides into a sleeve that is then half-covered by an armor pad.
I forgot to show this, but the shoulderpads stay on by way of a polycap hole (an actual hole, not a ball-socket) that is capped onto the shoulder by another piece.

Seams to weld/fill: shoulders, upper elbow, one small spot on the back of the lower elbows, palms & lower thumb on open hands

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>>5756501
That's perfect, thanks!

I'm specifically looking for a head that looks like this, but the closest I can think of is the grimgerde, any any suggestions?

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>>5756502
Yes, "Reg Unit"

>>5756503
No Gundam models inherently have knight armor, you'll want to likely look into plaplate/sheet styrene and modeling putty. It'll let you make that helmet shape with enough practice.

>>5756503
Tallgeese Kinda has the visor look, not the full helmet though.

>>5756518
You're right, but I don't want to spend the time and money learning how to scratch build just for 1 head.

And there are a couple knightly designs like the talgeese and kimaris, I thought there might be more I didn't know about

>>5756518
The Gyan kinda resembles one.

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>>5756516
(Right-click rotate option you have failed me!)
The legs are mostly clamshell, with an insert panel for the back and a kneecap for the front.
The thighs and knees are also clamshell, but like the shoulders have an odd quirk. The connector for the knee pegs into one side of the thigh, and is pegged into by the other side of the thigh. It's like a dicktrain. Ask /d/.
Fuck I thought I took a pic of the feet. They have this nice gimmick for the upper half of the feet being on a rocker and I can't show you the mechanism. Though it's just one peg sitting on another peg, and held in place by a tab on the sole.

Seams to weld/fill: thighs, knees, bells of lower legs, sides of feet.

>>5756503
Yeah, Grimgerde's pretty much just like that, only other things I can think of being knight-headed is Gyan and R-GyaGya.

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>>5756525
That's a pretty tall part. That goes all the way up from the hips into the upper torso.
The lower torso is literally two hexagonal boxes sitting on top of each other. Yes, that's a full 360-degree rotating ab joint. Good luck with that if you're painting.
The front and side skirt flaps are on sturdy swing arms, but those are on polystyrene-to-polystyrene hinges so don't go crazy with them.
The hip conenctors are actually at an angle and on a rotating core, so they legs will naturally be spread.

Seams to weld/fill: bottom of main hip clamshell.

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>>5756536
The turbosack is the same as the upper torso: a clamshell core with seams mostly covered by extra armor.
There are enough parts included in this (and the regular Roundfacer) to have the missile pod on the other side, have no missile pods, or have two missile pods. (I am sad that the Leadfoot only comes with enough parts for one missile pod.)
The linear rifle is connected to the turbosack by way of a coiled-spring "cord" that I might later replace with a rubber tube. Maybe. It holds up well while posing.
The Rocket pod and linear rifle are perhaps the best examples of seam hiding in the entire kit.

Seams to weld/fill: tio and bottom of turbosack, small seam in front of sensor camera on linear rifle, minimally noticeable seams along sides of missile pod, seams on bottom of missile pod at connector arm.

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I was not expecting this size. Overall, it's just half a head above a Standard HG in height.
From a box that was between a HG and MG GM's boxes in size, I was expecting a bit more.
The engineering is of course only comparable to a High Grade from Bandai, but with Max Factory announcing that ambitious 1/20th VF-1A/S, I hope that eventually they will apply advanced engineering techniques to the Combat Armors Max line with a series of 1/60th kits comparable to Master Grades in engineering.

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>>5756550
In the end, it's a surprisingly flexible kit, though the elbows bend just under 90 degrees and the tops of the thighs wrestle with the top of the hip chamber when moving them into a high pose.

If you want to really have fun with the kit, buy yourself four so you can make the full 24th Unit team, or hunt down the first Combat Armors Max EX release: a four-pack of Kolchima Specials that also includes four in-scale figurines of the 24th Unit pilots standing at-rest as well as the full, expanded box art showing off the cooperative piloting of the 24th Unit.

NiceBlog, end

What do you guys think about the rg astray red frame? I'm thinking about picking it up cuz I have ever other scale of it. Pros/cons

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>>5755282
A pretty fun build I bet, but the temptation will probably be frustrating to not go and get one of the Liger Packs right after...

Old pic of a my now gone Liger Jager. Though will replace it eventually someday, with either a kit reissue; or a figure if Koto's figure line goes past the Blade Liger.

Also post pics when you can please!

>>5756544
Oh, almost forgot to mention.
We /x/ now: That light spot near the edge of the 'pod' piece in the top-right, that's an air pocket trapped just under the surface of the plastic.

>>5756550
Wow. I was kinda interested in these kits actually, but seeing that size...it just doesn't seem worth the cost.

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Jinrai has architect legs

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so shiny

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>>5756921
but so fiddly

>>5753019
love it

>>5754087
i think it looks pretty nice. I love monotone though. Makes this dude look even more creepy to encounter irl

>>5756812
Sorta the same here, Max Factory's going Koto price-pointing here it seems.
*remembers announced 1/20th VF* *dreads externally*
Now I'm even more glad I only paid $16 for that Ironfoot.

>>5750660

Fuck you, Bandai. That's lazy.

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My custom graze for gbwc is coming along nicely. This weekend I made a swing arm and backpack mount to attach the barbatos cannon to its back.

>>5756071
Your back yard looks really pretty anon. The model looks good too.

>>5757123
looks nice, any ideas for the colour scheme?

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>>5757443
I'm thinking Gourai dark and black browns. And sticking wiht dark grey for the frame bits instead of metallics.

>>5750660
I like the qan[t]

Gonna pop the full Saber conversion on it, and get rid of the cat ears.

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Thoughts?

>>5757529
pointy

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>>5757529

You're gonna poke yer eye out, kid!

Hi this is my first time here. I wanted to ask is it possible to sculpt figures out of pvc similarly to how you could with clay?

>>5757123
thank you for using the superior feet

>>5757529
What kind of saw is that?

>>5756576
The waist pops apart sometimes, but other than that I love it.

>>5757976
Should I get the high grade or real grade

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So, Modellegend are working alongside FPM (the people who made the RG exia R3 conversion kit) to make an MG exia avalanche conversion in plastic kit form.

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>>5757999

>>5757999
>>5758003
Looks rad

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>>5758003

Probably not the best place to ask, but fuck it
I'm looking into buying Gundam Breaker 3 from play-asia. Will they be sending a physical copy, or just a code?

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How the fuck do I fill in this gap

>>5758265
It should be physical because you can't download it anywhere else but the Japan & SE Asia PSN store.

>>5758484
What model is that?

>>5757529
I can't wait to turn all my gunpla into mall goths!

Real talk tho I'm all for adding metal bits if they have more definition than the default parts.

>>5758549
Powered GM

>>5758484
there shouldnt be a gap there, clean both sides to make them flush, otherwise; cement

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I've seen models with this needle-tube thing in the thrusters, but I don't know what it is and I can't find any pics of real-life rockets that have it. Does anyone know?

>>5758741
I believe it's a jet engine exhaust cone.

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>>5758792
only on those external engines though

I'm trying to recreate the light pink of the Rouge strike ver RM limbs with Tamiya spray cans but their pink is to... Pink. Should I try white primer - red - white primer /white to hope for an even bleed through effect or perhaps clear red over white primer and if that's to red hit it with another layer of the white stuff? Experimenting this could get expensive :/

Hey guys, with which color do you think i should panel line my Gyan?
Thinking about using gray

>>5759035
Bleed looks bad anon. It always looks bad.

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Just throwing random parts together for the GM group build. I decided I wanted some kind of solo heavy weapons GM with a support flyer. This is what I've got so far. I'm thinking I'll call the GM Overcoat.

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>>5759097
Made it so the flyer can turn into a simple static turret too.

>>5759097
>>5759098
Is this a thinly veiled attempt at showing off your GK?

Post it here when you're done, I liked Sinon Ass Online 2

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What's a good wire type for making ICOM thingys like pic related? All I have to work with right now is the heat wire off my buddy's Gouf custom.

>>5759097
Before I forget that's pretty cool gm

>>5759222
I think the white primer > red > white will do fine for a light pink. When I did my first painting attempt, I noticed I could never turn my red runners fully white no matter how much white primer I used and it was always a nice light pink instead.

>>5759062
Not saying you're wrong, but I'm giving it a spoon test, saw this site and it was pretty much the color I was looking for. Worst case I'll go some variant of white
http://www.scaleautomag.com/how-to-models/how-to/2008/12/great-paint-from-spray-cans-part-i

>>5756128
>>5756186
>>5756201
Airbrush problem anon back again. I tightened the front end a little with pliers and the problem was solved. Waiting for my spoons to cure overnight before posting pictures. Thank you all for your help!

>>5759359
Thats not a gunperry you piece of shit!!

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Meanwhile at 2chan

What material are they using? My tamiya putty sure as fuck doesn't look like that after i sand it.

>>5759892
White seems to be Plaplate while off-white/grey is epoxy putty I think. It's a 2-part putty which can be used to form parts and large details.

>>5759892
It might be polyester putty. It's popular because it cures very quickly and it's a dream to work with (but soft). Also holy shit how are their plaplate cuts so clean?

>>5759913
Not that anon, I'm this guy >>5759903.
What's the difference between epoxy putty and polyester putty? Got any experience to compare the two?

>>5759929
>What's the difference between epoxy putty and polyester putty?
It's like google was never invented!

>>5759892
>tfw doing very basic plaplate addons and can't even cut the fucking shit right
I'm using an exacto knife, should I get a scribing tool or something instead? I try to sand them down to make it as even as possible but it's not working out all that great.

>>5760037
Granted, that's true, but I also asked if he had personal experience. While I did look into it afterward, reading that the anon says "polyester is better for x, stick to these brands" or the like is useful. It's not like it wouldn't help other people here to know that.

>>5760084
Yeah, as surprising as it may be, I am aware providing information can be helpful. :^)

The dark, ugly side of providing information, is people who get so used to spoonfeeding they expect there to be guides for literally everything. Consider the following:
>Does anyone have any experience pinning or gluing the MS Blade 01 Builder's Parts? I'm looking around for a tutorial and can't find one specifically for this parts set.

They were looking for a pinning and gluing tutorial for a specific option set. Why? Because you faggots don't know when to tell someone they need to use their brain every once in a while!

>>5760104
That's partially due to gunpla being particularly simple in the grand scheme of modeling, I suppose. It's why we see so many craptastic badly painted builds with craft acrylics vs the tank or airplane community. Low skill cap to begin lets the newbies fuck up in more aspects of the build process, whereas with a non-snapfit model that needs cement, paint and whatnot just to look decent makes the builder research more.

My take on things, not to say I'm fully right.

>>5760124
Those are valid points, and you are certainly right to make them.

>>5759929
Epoxy clay or sculpting putty is generally thicker in putty form and pretty dense.

In short

>polyester cures completely in about an hour
>epoxy cures in 24+ hours
>polyester is softer and smoother when putty and when cured and easier to cut and sand when cured
>epoxy is dense like clay when putty and rock hard when cured
>polyester is meant for filling big holes and flattening out surfaces but has medium consistency so you can slop it onto existing parts and shape it fairly well
>epoxy is meant for sculpting using just the epoxy
>both have poor grip to bare plastic and needs a sanded and cleaned surface before applying and maybe even superglue
>both are perfectly fine for detailed sculpting once cured (depends on the brand of epoxy)

For brands, Tamiya's polyester is popular and for epoxy apoxie is good.

Keep in mind I'm not talking about hardware/repair epoxy, which is like a goo, I'm talking about epoxy modeling putties that are like clay. Apoxie will hold detail as well as anyone and because it's hard (albeit brittle) it's good for completely original parts. It's cheap too. It's tough but it cuts reasonably well with a sharp x-acto and it's easy to sand with a file. The Japs use polyester because of how quickly it cures (hard in like 30 minutes) and because it's soft (easier and quicker to cut and sand). Epoxy needs 24 hours before you can really work with it, which makes it a big time sink.

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>>5760159
Great info, much thanks anon.

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post monday night wips

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Local comic book store did a Buy one get one free sale, guess which one was free

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>>5760304
Waiting for the parts to dry overnight after washing them. Gonna start priming sometime this week. So glad to getting closer to finishing my 08th MS team.

>>5760506
The Geminass is going to be ass if you're not planning to put some work into it. Expect seams, bad fitting and the shit articulation that were standard for 90's Wing kits. You get a cool design though.

>>5760556
Ding ding, that was the free kit since the GP base is worth more

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>>5760304

Getting there. I absolutely adore how the plastic is easier to trim compare to typical Bandai kits but the fitting of pieces a lot of the time isn't great and lets to me trying really hard to get things together.

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What's the name of the turtle's kit? If this even is one?

>>5760654
buster tortoise

>>5760666
Thanks.

>>5760676
or cannon tortoise, which is olive drab

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Not gonna lie, I'm actually tempted to get this. The colors make a world of difference.

http://www.taghobby.com/1-0/1-2/bandai-hobby-online-shop-2016%e5%b9%b46%e6%9c%8828%e6%97%a5%e8%b5%b7%e6%8e%a5%e5%8f%97%e8%a8%82%e8%b3%bc%ef%bc%8c%e6%97%a5%e6%9c%ac2016%e5%b9%b49%e6%9c%88%e6%b4%be%e8%b2%a8%ef%bc%9a-%e6%a8%a1%e5%9e%8b/

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>>5760304
Monday night WIPs you say?

>>5760822
Is that just a different blade on an exacto? Is that all you're using to get such precise cuts to make weapons?

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>>5760847
>blade

>>5760813
Even though its just a really pale grey and a white?

Its tempting but I got the original version, I can repaint it if I wanted, same kit, and even spray can options are present

>>5760853
Well, I -was- asking what it was. It's hard to tell from the picture, especially considering I've never seen that thing before.
I'd like to know how to get clean cuts like that, though, I'm working on my first try with plaplate and putty and it's turning out to be terrible.

>>5760863
>hard to tell
nah, not really

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>Jinrei finally shipped.
>2chan thread makes it look like a lot of fun.
>Might arrive on my birthday.

>>5761007
I still don't like her crotch. A pity since I like her ponytail.

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>>5761007
I'm expecting my Jinrai in a couple of weeks!

I still haven't built any of these since I still have a rather large WIP PG

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Guys my first kit ever is arriving in two/three weeks
Any advice out of what is in the guide?

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>>5760847
>>5760863
I don't know what you think you're seeing in that picture, but you seem confused.

Last night I was assembling guns from resin parts I cast and cleaned earlier. Pieces of excess resin were cut off with a nipper and that thing with xacto handle is indeed a glue applicator.

>>5761126
Not really, just go build it and learn along the way

OK so I want to go for a shopping spree for gunpla supplies like cements blades and airbrush colors. Point is that I'm new to the hobby and I don't know what some of the below things are. So any help is appreciated.
P.S I know what the cement is used for but don't know what these types are for.

Mr.MARK SOFTER NEO
Mr.MARK SETTER
Mr Cement - Limonene Type (Extra Thin) 40ml
Mr. Cement S
MR. Surfacer Pro
MR. Finishing Surfacer
Mr. MASKING SOL "neo"
Mr. Base White 1000
Mr. Color Leveling Thinner

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>>5761322
Here's a novel though:

DON'T
BUY
SHIT
TILL
YOU
KNOW
WHAT
YOU
NEED
IT
FOR.

>>5761335
Chemicals aside there's always the standard set of tools modellers use anyway.

Perhaps anon is trying to save the hassle of shipping multiple small items over a period of time.

>>5761322
Mr Mark is for waterslides
Cement is cement
Surfacer is for priming or filling scratches
Base white is white primer, 1000 is the smoothness of the finish, which is fairly smooth
Masking Sol is liquid masking
Levelling thinner is golden juice for your lacquers

Also Google exists.

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>>5747946

Man, I feel so damn smart about fixing my HGUC Zeek Mk I's janky waist swivel. All I did was add a polycap to the peg and then figure out how to have it oriented so it wouldn't impolde.

>fucking snapfag with his fucking nubby pieces of fuck--

Shut up and let me have my moment, asshat. Just let me feel like I'm actually a clever person for fucking once.

>>5761383
Autism

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My first paint job, inspired by the the one on here a while ago. Just need to line and add the decals now then topcoat.

>>5761486

You call it autism, I call it a stroke of genius.

Ah, well. To-may-toe toe-mah-toe.

>>5761126
As a guy who got into gunpla recently all I can say is: just go for it. You learn most things doing it. Do read up before though!

>>5761546
If you think I'm talking about the polycap and not how you're talking about it you're even worse than I thought

>>5761322
>WHAT IS GOOGLE: THE POST

>>5761349
>here you go spoonbabby!
>Also Google exists.

Why even post about google, if you do all the work to begin with?

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>>5761626
some people just like to spoonfeed

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>>5760304
finished the remaining parts of my barbatos. Will coat tomorrow, do detailing and fix ups then do final top coat and it'll be done.

Looking forward to finishing this.

>>5760986
Not that anon, but it is especially if you have never seen it before.

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Experimenting with paint and masking for the first time. Kinda exciting

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Is there some site who ship replacement parts other than in the US?

Or alternatively is there someone here who doesn't care about his RG 00 raiser anymore and is willing to sell me the right horn?

>>5761127
Oh, I thought they were scratchbuilt.

New thread: >>5762355

>>5761856
Put some cement, sand it and paint it Mr. Lazyass.

>>5747946
Hey guys, new to /toy/ here, I'm interested in modeling, and I wanted to start actually doing it, I'm specifically interested in doing kitbash with angular mecha models like jesta's and tank parts and greebles. My question is, what's is a good starter model so I can work myself into what I want to do, and if anyone has any recommendations for starter airbrushes as I'd like to paint them like field camo'd tanks. Sorry if this is like covered Ina sticky or something