Scale Model Kit Thread

>>5703339
This is brush painted, isn't it?

Really nice job, I wish mine looked like this.

>>5703339
I want to post my kit but I'm too shy, it's not even that bad but I don't think it's up to standard

>>5703418
Then why mention it? Not so shy, huh?

>>5703418
If u post it I will buy you a 4chan gold account

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>>5703339
I must say that I'm surprised by the choice of picture.
>>5703379
Yes it's brush painted but I'm steadily messing it up as I go. The pagoda has really been a handful and I've had to modify some parts for them to fit but at least it'll be done soon.

>>5703581
>that tower
what ship is that?

>>5703584
IJN Yamashiro by Fujimi

>>5703581
we usually chose something from the previous thread, its a case of finding something that isn't a terrible photo and is framed well.
ship was it this time

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So my current paint situation is 99% isopropyl alcohol and Tamiya acrylics. Im also brush painting. How do I not fuck up my next model? Pic related is next attempt after first model.

>>5703761
don't use tamiya paints if you're hand brushing.
It dries up too fast, which will make all your work look ilke shit.

>>5703765
this. use humbrol enamels and white spirit.

>>5703761
If you want to brush paint, Enamels tend to be better (when thinned properly). You can still get acrylics to work, but you need to find some acrylic retarder that works with Tamiya paints. I think tamiya makes their own version. Anyway, you mix a tiny bit of retarder with 99% isopropyl and you should be able to brush paint very well with it. I don't know the correct retarder/iso ratio, since i've only ever used vallejo acrylics (which are waterbased).

>>5704003
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Finishes-Retarder-Acrylic-Version/dp/B00F61CSTY

Here's the stuff you want

>model looks perfectly fine with my own eyes
>take picture with camera
>all of a sudden all the glossy shit and other imperfections come out and now the model looks like trash

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>>5703418
I'm not afraid to post this horrific train wreck (SiP), you shouldn't be afraid to post yours. You're anonymous; what are we going to do, track you down, open your front door and call you a faggot to your face?

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>>5704308
Maybe

>>5704236
I think youre using too much flash.

try turning flash off and lighting it naturally, or from some other light source.

harsh lighting makes anything look shit.

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>>5704236
>>5704444

This. Without flash and good, natural lights (multiple light sources work best) it will look way better. pic is /tg/-related but still helpful

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why does tamiya acrylic have such large flakes?

Not sure if I want to re-coat it or just run with it

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>>5704308
Tried a different location. Tracks/wheels are still unfinished, and the ATGM/Gun need to be washed completely and redone.

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I promised results and here they are. These are the paints and thinners I've used. While the AK paint is good for big surfaces, it is no good for detail painting as it gets runny VERY fast, even if unthinned.

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>>5704822
These are the results of the AK paint with and without their own thinner, sprayed with 0.2 and 0.4 needle at various psi settings from 10 to 40 psi. As you can see, I've not managed to spray it right.

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>>5704826
The Ammo of Mig paint was a real surprise. It's finely pigmented and sprays very good using AKs thinner. I ordered several paints from them, to test this further.
What's really interesting: the Revell thinner actually made the Model Airs sprayable! The tip dry was reduced to a minimum and they sprayed on smoothly and precisely. I used a mix of 3/1 and 3/2 paint/thinner. Psi settings are marked with pencil.

Brush painting is so fucking hard compared to airbrushing. Do I have to thin them to get a smooth finish?

>>5704914
>Do I have to thin them
ALWAYS thin your paints anon.

>>5704832
>the Revell thinner actually made the Model Airs sprayable
Isn't Model Air supposed to be sprayable out of the bottle?

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>>5704826
>>5704822
>>5704832
Glad to see that finally found a solution for your problem with the vallejo (although a curious one). I just bought a takom chieftain mk10, for dat fine ass berlin brigade scheme, and the paint refs are ammo so ill give them a try also.
>>5703765
>>5704003
>>5704916
All my “old” models are brush painted with tamiya acrylics straight from the bottle and never had problems. I’ll post one to show I’m not talking out of my ass

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>>5704924
It’s a bit "blotchy" in some details but this is without primer, no varnish, no filters, no wash, absolutely nothing. Just tamiya acrylics and one brush, also only water for the calc.
I think it looks quite good without the fucking hassle of the airbrush, but as always, it’s a matter of personal preferences

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Just bought this, along with a $140 Pontos advanced Photo etch, resin / deck and turned brass set.

Going to start working on it as soon as I finish my Shimakaze, which should be in the next few days. I waited and just bought some XF-75 instead of mixing the wrong color, I'll post some pictures later. Not going to weather it too much either, just some rust streaking on the sides and a very thin dark black/grey wash over the hull.

>>5704826
>>5704832
Are you the Sturmtiger guy? That looks like the piece of the hull you cut out from it.

Anyways, I don't really like to use Vallejo's stuff, it's great for hand painting, probably the best stuff for that, but in terms of airbrushing I just cannot get it to come out the way I want it.

I've heard good things about AK and MIGs paint too though, I just don't want to invest in switching to them because I have so much unused Tamiya paint.

>>5704457
What color is that? XF-16? What are you using as a base for the paint? Is it properly sanded?

You might have a bad jar of paint.

>>5703581
That's really not bad at all for brush painting anon. The weathering looks good as well. You should try getting some photo etch railings though, would really help add to the details.

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>>5704919
It's supposed to be, yes. The reality is that the nozzle clogs up after a few seconds and you're having a bad time airbrushing the stuff. Gonna try Vallejo's flow improver too.

>>5704941
It actually is, I used it for testing the camo I wanted to put on it. The basecoat and shading is already on, expect some pics soon.

>>5704974
Looks really neat, did you hand paint the little "HL" on the rounds?

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So what colour and camo pattern would you consider this to be?
Looks like a white-washed grey to me, but definitely lighter than german grey. Dunkelgrau?

>>5704989
1:1 light grey to flat white thinly sprayed over medium gray. Are you going to use Tamiya's kit to make that?

Gonna be lighting up a sub for the first time. Where can I buy led components in store?

>>5705056
>Gonna be lighting up a sub for the first time
What does this mean? Putting lights on a submarine model, like the red and green position lights?
Also leds are available in electronics stores (like sparkfun or the physical equiv.), buy them with some resistors (1k should do) and wire them yourself for a custom and easy solution if you are familiar with soldering and extremely basics electronics, or hack a toy/Christmas lights, but those run at 110/220V and perhaps need more work than doing it from scratch

>>5704986
Yeah, that's the only HL round, so I positioned it near the "window" to see it better.

>>5705093
Pegasus Nautilus. Doing lights on the inside. I checked radio shack but they had SINGLE leds for 3 bucks. Online theyre about 18 cents each

>>5704935
very cool, love 1:350 ships, look forward to watching it being built.

fucking photo etch tho, expensive man.

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>>5705146
Yeah, but it's not just a photo etch set, it's a complete set of a lazer-etched wood deck, turned brass barrels for the main guns as well as the smaller AA guns, resin parts for the AA guns and other smaller details, and steel deck etched parts alongside 5 frets of photo etch. It will probably take me quite some time just to assemble the entire thing due to all of this.

I kinda regret the purchase now though, because I just found out Academy makes a premium version of the kit with their own photo etch, brass barrels, etc. It also includes a kit of the Submarine that sunk the Indianapolis as well... for cheaper. That said, the Pontos set is worth every penny for what you get.

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>>5705143
I guess you wanna do something like this right? Looks awesome.
Perhaps not even LEDs are required and small lightbulbs do the job and those are cheap everywhere, if you are ready and set for leds perhaps on sparkfun or adafruit you will find everything electronic you need for cheap and quickly (faster than ordering from China and perhaps better quality control)

>>5705158
you probably want a case as well, other wise it will be a dust magnet. I will have to learn to build my own cases because it has to be cheaper than buying.

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>>5705233
I have display cases for most of my smaller stuff, but yeah I might have to look into making one myself. I've done plenty of woodwork in the past and have the tools to make my own case if I want.

Anyways here's an update on the Shimakaze, most of the main paintwork is done, I'm going to do some light drybrushing, maybe a light grey filter to give it some fading and then a gloss coat for some decals followed by a wash.

>>5705437
Looks great, and man that PE work is something that if I tried to do it, it would look like small razor wire fence

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>>5705738
Thanks, honestly photo etch isn't all that bad, it's just damn time consuming and fidgety.

It also helps to have a good set of tools to work it correctly (pic related). For example, the pliers in are excellent for holding the piece while I file off the nub. The pointed tweezers are very useful too. They both work equally well for bending. Luckily I inherited a lot of really high quality Lindstrom jewelry tools from my mom who doesn't use them anymore. My sprue cutters are also a pair of Lindstrom that are ~10 years old and still cut perfect to this day.

I also found it's really nifty to use scraping blades (you get get box of 100 for ~$5), as they don't dull quickly, are extremely useful for using as a guide to bending pieces, and are the perfect tool for cutting photo etch from the fret. I also always cut photo etch on top of a glass plate.

>>5705056
Ive seen people by the LED components and make the IR dazzlers on the T90A shine but I have absolutely no idea how I would go about doing it.

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It'll probably be difficult/impossible, but can anyone identify this model?

>>5705806
Not that difficult anon.

Metal Earth Tiger I:

http://www.amazon.com/Metal-Earth-Tiger-1-Tank/dp/B00BERG8FY

>>5705814
Holy shit you're awesome.

'Sup m8s
So i'm about to get my first model warship, which also contains photoetch parts. I'm new to both model warships, and PE. Does anyone have some tips on how to secure PE parts to the hull? I currently own some tamiya plastic cement, but I don't think that'll work with photoetch.

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>>5705864
Almost forgot, pic related, it's the ship

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>>5705869
>>5705864
If it's not too late, I would suggest getting Dragon's Z-38, Z-39 or Z-31/32 kit instead. I've built the Z-38 myself and it is a really nice kit, I think probably better than Trumpeters in engineering and design. All of these kits are basically the same hull with some differences in armament, the superstructure, etc.

Also get an eduard photo etch upgrade set for it, I believe they sell one for the Z-39, but it works just as well for the Z-38.

The reason why I would avoid trumpeter is because their photo etch is dogshit. It's too soft, their railings often aren't even pre-designed for the kit, and are just a fret of railings you have to cut to length and bend yourself.

That said, if you already bought the Trump Zerstroyer, get an eduard photo etch set for the railings at least, as it will definitely be an improvement over whatever Trumpeter has in the box. (I just looked up the kit and I am right, the photo etch is NOT pre-designed for the kit, it's the same shit soft railings you have to cut to length yourself).

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/156212-eduard-53065-german-z-43-1944

pic related.

>>5705890
Also if you do get the Dragon kit, here's an link to an album I made of the build. I used an eduard photo etch which replaced a lot of the kits own photo etch, as well as added the rails and a lot of other small details.

http://imgur.com/a/lGy8N#0

Simply put, the Dragon kit is definitely better than the Trump kit, for the same price basically. The superstructure details are molded with slide molds, unlike Trumpeter's kit, meaning you don't have to glue four pieces together to make four walls of the bridge and whatnot.

>>5705898
Not sure if I can afford the Eduard PE right now, but i've put it in my wishlist. Thanks anyways though anon

>>5705864
>>5705869
Also I forgot to answer your question in the first place... there are several ways to attach photo etch. Probably the most common is super glue, or any kind of cyanoacrylate. I prefer to use a gel super glue myself, as it is so much easier to work with than regular thin super glue.

Other alternatives are slower-drying water-based glues, there is a guy that makes his own acrylic-based glue (Gator's Grip) which I've used a few times, but it dries a little too slow for my liking, but it is good for certain applications where dry-time isn't a concern.

If this is your first time, I would advise using gel superglue. Get a piece of spare plastic, and place a dab of gel on it. I use toothpicks to apply the glue to my photo etch often, or just dab the piece into the glue itself with some tweezers (being careful to not let the glue touch your fingers or the tweezers or it will glue to them instead). The toothpick method is the most common though and it works really well. Also refer to the post I made earlier for some good tools to have for working with photo etch. That little clamp thing is very useful, but kinda expensive and not really necessary for everything.

>>5705929
I think i've got some gel superglue laying around somewhere. I'll give it a shot, will update eventually, just trying to finish my 1/48 B29 (Monogram)

>>5705773
Jealous of that build and work space, I look forward to seeing it finished. I want to try using more photo etched parts but right now I lack the tools and skills. The few parts that were on my 1/350 Yukikaze were challenging enough so I doubt I'd be able to do it on my 1/700 ships.

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>>5704947
I primed in black, Sorry for the potato quality. It was only supposed to be an update shot for my own consumption.

Yeah, the base coat went on smooth as a baby's ass. I've always found Tamiya acrylics being too flaky. I burnished a few areas to no avail. Might just drop the project for now

>>5706682
Carry on with it, there is no fuck-up one couldnt fix

>>5706682
Do you use Tamiya lacquer thinner to thin their acrylics?

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Just finished my tamiya cromwell. Should I stick with traditional green camo or do something original? I also have a tamiya jagdpanzer IV and early tiger I I havnt painted yet but will do some sort of camo on them as well.

>>5706766
did you even paint it?

>>5706879
obviously not (not him btw)

>>5706766
just do what is historically accurate

Hey, is there a place where you can browse tank models in 3D or something? or at least from different views, specially from top-down?

>>5706942
World of Tanks, heheh

Also AK interactive have something called "Revolver" on their App/Website. There, you can view some models like you said.

>>5706955
This. I use War Thunder, also allows you to view tanks you don't own, although i havent played WoT in ages,

For modern stuff I use Wargame RD, but the models have less detail.

>>5706964
The newest Update of WoT also allows you to view the tanks you don't have, It's real nice.

>>5706879
Not yet. I don't currently have the money to buy the paints specific for these tanks as now I am saving up for university and that means a tight budget. However, I am making a list for when I'm done saving up.

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>>5706705
Thanks, I think it's looking alot better

>>5706729
Yes I did, the only thing I can think of is perhaps I was spraying too little to create a wet surface, but I honestly doubt it. I was moving lots of material when I did the coat

>>5707225
Much better

>>5707225
What kit is that? 1/48 Eduard Mirage III?

>>5707225
That doesn't look that bad anon. Try some Alclad paints next time though, they have so many shades and it looks a lot more realistic.

You could also try thinning down the Tamiya to about ~20-30% paint to thinner and build it up a lot slower, similar to how Alclad sprays (though Alclad is <10% paint to thinner I think).

Do you guys also have one or multiple models you just feel unhappy about?

Sometimes when that feeling gets too strong I just buy the kit again and try it to do better.

>>5707345
Yes. Tried to make the 1/72 Revell Eurofighter and still don't have one completed.

Sorry if this is not the right thread, but could anyone tell me how the Aoshima Initial D models are (looking into the volume 37 A86)? Are they hard to build?

I'm fairly inexperienced, having only built gunpla thus far.

>>5705056
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160601161739&SearchText=small+led

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20160601161841&SearchText=side+glow+fiber+optic

>>5707867
You lack reading comprehension.

>>5708078
aliexpress is a store...

>led components
not to mention, he has expression problems unless he actually needs THE SHIT THAT LEDs ARE MADE OUT OF. like translucent resins, semiconductors, etc...

>>5708232
>Where can I buy led components in store?

The term "in store" generally refers to the ability to walk into a physical building.
For example, when ordering online from a big box retailer, you're often given the option of having it shipped to your house, or picking it up "in store."

>>5708283
>The term "in store" generally refers to the ability to walk into a physical building.

Why the fuck would you want to do that if you can simply order the stuff for less money in china?

>>5708283
It's kinda weird to ask about physical stores (without even giving any information about where you live) on an imageboard like this one where there are people from all over the world.

>>5707242
Hobbyboss IIICJ

>>5707262
Yeah, it might be the thinner to paint ratio, but i doubt it. I usually thin around 2-1 (33%) solvent to paint anyway. Funny you should mention alclad, I went and overcoated it with a few different shades to achieve this new effect.

>>5707810
They're based on Aoshima's car kits and whilst I cant exactly tell you what the AE86 is like, I do have a S15 Silvia in the backlog.

Taking a glance at it (the initial D one), for a car kit I'd say it's intermediate, since you're going to have to fill some gaps (probably, I'm just using my eyes). It's harder than any of the graded Bandai gunpla and I should remind you to expect to plan more than you would for gunpla. Having to paint a kit, especially a car kit where the finish will be crucial, adds a whole new dimension to modelling which might easily come bite you in the ass. That said, it's not a particularly complex or difficult kit.

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Working on weathering the Shimakaze right now. Did a very light wash over some raised details on the hull, but I'm trying to leave it sort of clean so it's not over-done. I'm going to do rust streaking and some light grey filtering over the sides of the hull and superstructure. Then I have to do the rigging.

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Also this came in the mail... can't wait to start it, though it is a nightmare of photo etch and resin. Even the little tiny Bofors guns have resin bases not 5mm wide that you have to add photo etch to. Also have to drill out microscopic holes for the brass gun barrels somehow...

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I've been trying to "save" (more like finishing a half painted model) this kv I had lying around for years along with a dragon Ferdinand, they will be the test beds for muddy mess and testing some ak washes and mig paints I've bought. Then the chieftain will be next and I hope all the testing will amount to some good results ...
>>5709646
Maybe it's the photo or I imagine the ship too small, but aren't those streaks too thick? Excellent work btw
>>5709650
My body and soul are ready to see this build

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How is Hasagawa's 1/72 draken? I pre-ordered the espada team variant recently.

>>5709732
According to scalemates its a quite old kit but have been repackaged with new decals over the years (ace combat ver. being one), that doesn’t mean it’s bad but seems to have problems in the intake/engine union, nothing that sanding and putty can’t solve, but also has a ton of aftermarket, the cockpit it’s all decal so eduards PE would be a nice addition (ref PE72023). Here’s a review of the hasegawa RF-35 that is the only version of the draken with new parts (64 vs 65 or something like that):
http://www.britmodeller(.)com/forums/index.php?/topic/234933818-saab-rf-35-recon-draken-hasegawa-172/

>>5709793
I didn't know of the intake/engine union issues, but I do have enough sanding material and putty so that shouldn't be a problem. I'll look into the aftermarket cockpit parts though. haven't really worked with them but I can always learn. Thanks.

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>>5709716
The streaks are a work in progress, I apply the enamel fluid, let it dry for a few minutes, then I blur the streaking into the hull itself. I will do the same with a light grey tone on parts of the hull to add some fading.

It's kinda hard to see due to the gloss coat glare, but it will pop out more once I place a matte layer over it.

>>5709716
Trumpeter KV-1 with appliqué armour

>>5709911
Much better

>>5709911
It is still WIP, right?

Or is there a reason for the lower line of "windows" (sorry, i have no clue about ships, but i assume these holes are windows) not having streaks?

>>5710767
They do have them, it's just harder to see due to the glare from the gloss coat.

They are windows however, most WWII naval vessels had plenty of windows, that's where the crew quarters were located on the destroyer.

I glossed my Zero. Pics later, maybe, but I'm having camera problems.
This has been one of those slow builds, especially the undercarriage, and the fact I brush painted it with the paints airfix provided.

Any suggestions on how to weather a plane? I might do some chipping around the cowling but I assume a Pearl Harbor plane would be clean...

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Have a pic of the Sturmtiger in its Basecoat.
Also bump.

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By far the shittiest decal application of my life. I'm thinking of peeling some areas and hand paint them, coat everything in varnish
>>5710644
Exactly, the kit is good but some fittings are shoddy and the tracks quite bad. But overall I remember it quite enjoyable to build and cheap.
>>5711089
Im not an expert in airplanes but in general, unless abandoned or in a really shitty situation, are quite well maintained and clean, compared to afvs. Some chipping on the acces to the cockpit and depending of the "area" (island, carrier, mainland based) and year of operation will dictate the type of wear (sun, salt and grime, dust, or pristine)
For general weathering this vid gives a good finish, not too heavy nor too complex to pull of
www.scalemodelguide(.)com/part2pwvg/

>>5711501
Hand paint it.

>>5711089
What >>5711501 said. In addition, engine exhaust usually leaves streaks. Gunsmoke will also leave a stain. Naturally these run from nose to tail . With most WWII fighters, the pilots would climb in by walking on the wing which leaves a trail of dirt and chipping over time.

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i bought two of those shits yesterday for 20 sents each. how do i revive them? i put some vallejo airbrush thinner and isoprop.

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>>5712845
btw, what can you say about the 1/48 A-6E™ Navy Attack Bomber Product ID: 85-5626

should i get it or wait for a wasegawa?

Do you paint the parts first, or build the model first and then paint it?

>>5712873
Paint the bits that are hard to reach first, then make the rest of the model and paint it later

>>5712853

No, steer away from that kit unless you are fine with 1980's molds and raised details.

Hasegawa will never release an Intruder because Kinetic is already producing the best Intruder in 48th scale. They are obviously more expensive than Revells, but totally worth it.

>>5711501
Did you put future underneath without covering the whole turret? That'll give you a bad time when overcoating the whole thing with a dull cote.

Next time make sure to have some micro sol and micro set (Or equivalent) to put over the decals once you've placed them under a fully cured layer of gloss varnish.

You could try adding some decal softener to see if you can get it to even out, but use Mr Marks series, they are stronger than Micro and may save you.

Any good tips or tutorials for digital camo?

>>5713034
Yeah, get narrow (3mm or whatever size you want) masking tape, paint your base color, put tape on, paint 2nd color,
If you like put more tape on, paint 3rd color.
Apply your tape in 90° angle.

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Just about done here. Only thing left to do is add the rigging and its done.

>>5712873
paint the small parts separately then glue them when the major components are painted.

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I hate rigging ships... such a pain in the ass.

On the plus side though, Hasegawa actually provides a detailed 2-page schematic of the rigging so you can actually do it properly... other model manufacturers should take note, because they often neglect to show it.

They even show the rigging from every angle too, making it easy to tell how to place it correctly.

>>5713331
Is that stretched sprue?

>>5713339
No, it's E-Z line, a stretchable very thin line. Works really well for rigging not only because it stretches, but it also resists breaking. I used to use stretched sprue (for aircraft), but it's just too fragile and if it's too thin and has too much tension it's prone to snapping.

There's other alternatives out there to stretched sprue though, I haven't tried any of them aside from EZ line.

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It has arrived!

>>5713349
Why not use black EZ-line?

>>5713360
I'm going to paint it once its done. I don't have black wire.

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>>5713355
>that bomb

>>5713134
Looks really good m8

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72 window pane masks.

72.

7.2. Each. Two of these.

Holy fucking shit.

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First model. Redone now and it's sloppy af but I'm happy with it. I'll know better for next time.

>>5713696
what is it for?

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>>5713759

>>5713510
Dat Revell 1/48 B-29

have you guys have any experience with ak intractive OIF and OEF washes ,they dont seem like the normal dark washes

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>>5713696
At least they're all pre-cut... imagine having to do it with an x-acto knife blade.

>>5714029
I have the OIF one, I've used it a few times. I think it's just a standard enamel based wash. I'm not sure what they use to thin it though, but it seems different from standard mineral (white) spirit.

Anyways almost done with the rigging now, I have to do the other side of the mast and the rear mast and I'm finished.

>>5714058
always love to see your work anon. Keep it up, you're an inspiration.

>>5713788

neat.

>>5714058

>No cute skirt with black thong.
>No happy turrets

You sure you built it correctly?

>>5714003
guy with the 1/48 B29 here, it takes some work to make it fit, but that bitch is sexy and massive.

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>>5714058
That came out really nice, as expected. Although the upper deck parts look bit too clean to me. It's almost like there are some people who actually take care of the ship's maintenance, unlike on my Yukikaze.

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>>5714782
Your Yuikikaze looks good anon. Yeah, it is a little too clean, your weathering looks really nice by the way.

>>5714285
I was baffled at what you were trying to say until I googled "Shimakaze" and the results were a bunch of anime girls. Funny though, I only bought the kit because I wanted to build a Japanese destroyer, and this one was very recently released.

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Finished building the Bradley. It's a pretty good kit. Should get another one in the future and paint it in NATO colors.

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Doing some oil washes, they are tedious as fuck but give nice and subtle color variations to the surfaces. Shame I fucked up with too much white, but the good thing of this technique is that everything can be easily fixed.
>>5714029
I bought these and the AK-062 (rust and grime or something like that) and I’ll try them after finishing with the oils, the composition of ak washes and mig ammo ones is not only the pigment and thinner (white spirit btw) but they also have stabilizers and other chemical shit. Other than that is as >>5714058 (excellent work with the shimakaze btw) said, just enamel washes, that you can reproduce with oils and white spirits, but they are ready to use and comfy.
>>5713028
The “shadow” behind the decals is a gloss varnish layer, then water and microsol. I thought would need to peel it off and hand paint it and went to bed quite mad at microsol for failing me in my darkest hour, but the little fucker had a surprise for me next morning, it wrapped up nicely around the bolts and only two little zones needed painting. Then covered in matt varnish with the rest of the turret and looks flawless

>>5713745
The sloppiness makes it look like some older soviet vehicles to me.

>>5714951
Like WW2 older?

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Shrubbery!

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>>5714959
Selfmade flocking made from sponge, using scissors and acrylic paints, need to make some trees too, using this guys build as an inspiration
http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=57462&start=20

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>>5714956
Like this

>>5714964
Oh. Well that was the effect I was trying to achieve. Thanks!

>>5714888
Thanks. At first I was planning on keeping the upper structures a bit more clean but I felt like it lacked character. In the end I went a little over board.
It's kinda cute that you haven't heard of KanColle before. I actually looked for a Shimakaze kit first but the only one I could find was the Yukikaze so I settled for it.
>>5713745
Is this the same BMP that's been haunting the last couple of threads? It looks a lot better now.
>>5714922
What scale is it? 1/72? Looks like it has pretty nice details for such a small scale but then again I haven't built anything in 1/72 in ~15 years so I don't know about the quality of newer kits. Now get some paint on it.
>>5714959
Looks cool, what are you going to use it for?

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>>5715008
>what are you going to use it for?
Its for a nice boat

>>5715011
https://youtu.be/JeimE8Wz6e4

>>5715011
Ah, it's for the nice boat. So you're going to cover the dark parts with "water"?

>>5715008
It's Dragon's 1/72 M3A2 Bradley. It's pretty good but it's designed to be built a certain way. For example I had to modify the plastic parts to have the TOW missile launcher in the stowed position.

>>5715008
Accidentally hit the captcha button

It is the same BMP. I bought a multitude of new paint colors to use and experiment with, and I'm happy with the results. A mix of Humbrol and Testors paints were used
I repainted the tracks to a better color and applied a second coat of dark green. I learned several other pieces of advice (Several thin coats are better than one thick coat; how washes and drybrushes layer). I learned how to and applied the drybrush technique in the same day. A light green was used.

As time goes on I'll fix up the wheels more and apply a proper silver coat to the ATGM in place of the chunky flat white I have on it now, but several inherent problems (I fucked the tracks themselves up hard) mean I'm going to end up moving on.
At the moment, I'm working on a T-72B and will test out more techniques as I learn them. I'm expecting the tracks to work much better since they're magic tracks as opposed to the new dragon tracks, and I have found and bought a bottle of Tamiya extra thin glue (Which has been amazing so far)

Since I'm still very new to this however, I wouldn't mind some recommendations on models and equipment.

>>5715038
Post pics

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>>5715040
The camera is better at making the imperfections come out, but it's too bright and fuzzy at times.

>>5715063
T-72 pics

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>>5715077
Only the turret is done. (Unpainted, no ERA) The upper hull came in slightly twisted and I have no idea how to fix it.

I don't know how to fix the white stubs (Knife is too dull; sandpaper makes it worse).

>>5715020
You are correct. Thats a long ways to go though until that part

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here is my shitty half ass'd weeb tank. didnt even follow the instructions or proper colors. never even heard of GUP. just wanted a weeb tank

>>5715122
It looks okay

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OK, so that was my 1st time using a models made wash (Vallejo acrylic wash) and the result is fucking atrocious.
Maybe because I was putting my trust in this "For Models effect so noting can go wrong" that I was reckless as shit with it. But I've actually achieved better results using my own made wash from spirit and artists enamel paint.

so question is, how do I remove it? I tried rubbing it off with a q-tip but it doesn't really works and in some places its just goes though the varnish and remove the paint.
Model was a 1/17 T-72 testing subject that I had laying around so no harms really done, but I'd still like to salvage it.


And on an unrelated note so I wont be a bore that just cries for help, here's my WIP Ontos.

>>5715338
That's because Vallejo's washes are acrylic. You have to remove the excess immediately. They're basically thinned down acrylic paint. You can't leave them to dry.

>>5715338
I suppose that being Vallejo they are acrylic, so unles it was applied on top of a coat of varnish you "would" be out of luck as is like painting over it, if it's applied over the coat use acrylic thinner of its brand (time is extremely important here). Also a wash shouldn't be applied as a filter without being thinned (9p/1t) or too happily but being subtle (just saying based from my fuck ups and videos). Nice ontos, I thought it was the model with the wash at first and oh the horror the horror

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>>5715445
Yeah, I know that.
I just couldn't find that sweet spot... cleaning too early and the entire wash was off, too late and the wash was stuck to the model holding for dear life.
so I acted as I did with the home-made wash, obviously wasn't such a good call.

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100% finished. Can finally get started on the Indianapolis.

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>>5715494

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>>5715497

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>>5715499

>>5715494
look a the op, try that shot, your lightings fine but your composition kinda sucks.
and turn your f-stop down so you don't get so much blur and get the whole thing in focus.

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>>5715500

>>5715506
Thanks for the tips, honestly I know nothing about photography, but I inherited a DSLR. PI've mostly just been messing with the exposure times to catch more light for the lightbox, haven't really messed with the aperture, but I'll try a smaller setting and post the results.

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>>5715499
Took a similar shot with some adjustments, do you guys think this looks a little better?

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>>5715579
if you look at the top row, higher f stop lets you get more in focus. but your picture will get darker because of it.
but this is why you have lots of light and shoot in .RAW format so you can lighten it in photoshop afterwards..
but it will make it a bit noisy, which is why people spend lots on cameras for less noise in the bits they lightened.

so you got the find the right balance really.

I think your front and back are still blurred.
wider angle lens would help fit more in,
but if you really 'get into' photography and have special lenses for everything it gets expensive.

mobile phones are just as good these days and have quite wide lenses.

im not great myself by any means, its not an enviable task shooting long models like that.
maybe look at some other people shots, magazine shots etc see how they capture it.

model looks nice tho.

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>>5715594
Thanks a lot for the explanation m8. I'll post a few more I've been taking that I think look a bit better. I've increased the exposure time quite a bit while lowering the aperture in increments.

I'm not going to take any more photos, but I'll try to keep adjusting the settings to make them better on future projects. This one I think is an improvement though, my exposure is really low, at 1.3, and my aperture at 20, the shutter speed is so slow that I had to turn on a countdown so that there was no shaking when taking the image. I use a tripod, but it's really shitty and tends to lower itself as you take pictures. Also missing two of its rubber pegs on the legs making it somewhat unstable.

I think this pic is slightly better but it's far from perfect obviously, still a lot of blur on the back edge.

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>>5715611
This one also came out pretty good I think, not too much out of focus on the edges.

>>5715611
Is it just the picture or are the window panes on the bridge painted over?

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>>5715824
They are not painted over, it's Micro Kristal Klear, a elmers-glue type liquid that you can use to make clear windows.

Granted, they are somewhat frosted over because they had been hit by the matte coat I sprayed on to touch up some super glue marks.

Does a purpose-built scriber offer any advantage over, say, a carbide dentist's drill head?

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What filling putty is everyone using? I'm have been using testors but I'm not very happy with it. It came separated in the tube, is hard to apply since it dries quickly but takes a long time to really harden. It also pulls out of seams a lot on me.

>>5716126
I'm using Tamiya's Basic grey putty. It shrinks when it dries.

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Debating on getting this 1/72 Saturn V for my birthday. Should I? Does anyone have any experience with this kit? Pic related, the box

>>5716535
I have no experience with that kit, but I do know that Saturn V is massive. I don't know how large it would be in 1/72, but should still be quite a huge model.

>>5716583
Holy shit, I had to look it up because I knew Saturn V is fuckhueg, but HOLY SHIT. Look at the size of this fucking thing in 1/72...

Do it Anon, and please post updates as you build, I'd love to see someone tackle this thing.

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>>5716585
God dammit, I forgot the image. That's a fucking Ikea Detolf for scale by the way... so it's at least 4ft. tall.

>>5716593
>>5716535

>Actual Height: 363 ft.
>363/72= ~5ft.

Please anon, we need to see this!

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>>5716596
Also, I found a different variant on Spruebrothers, only $130 there for the one with Skylab.
http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/dmls11021-os.htm

I need to build this fucking thing myself one day, what an awesome display piece.

>>5716126
I'm using Revell's putty for coarse filling jobs (it's easy to get here) and Milliput for finer gaps, as it doesn't shrink and can be nicely manipulated with water.

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Anyone know if there are any aftermarket decals for this particular aircraft?

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>>5716725
The G.W.H. Kit No. L4810 – Northrop P-61B Black Widow ‘Last Shoot Down 1945’ has them on the kit
http://www.hyperscale.com/2013/reviews/kits/gwh4810reviewbf_1.htm
Other planes:
http://www.ultracast.ca/Aircraft%20Decals%20-%2048%20Scale%20-%20P-61.htm
I haven't found "the spook" on other decal sheets but may exist, if you wanna other profiles or something from the book just ask. Personal favorite of mine is "the virgin widow" if black or "moon happy" if green

>>5715087
Get some 400 grit

>>5715993
depends on the specific tool, but the difference is, a panel scribing tool will cut a square hole as apposed to a V shaped one.

but a lot are the same.
I purchased a dental set but found the tips not to be very fine or sharp, tho I could sand them, I don't need to when I have some other tools to do it.

>>5716725
racis

>>5716596
>>5716593
>>5716585
If you guys can hold out for around a month or so then I will, cus my birthday's not until mid july

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If this is what it takes to make the plane halves line up then by Joe I'm gonna make it fucking happen

>>5717041
Wew lad, talking about desperate measures. Also revell can go fuck themselves with that fitting quality straight from the 80s

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>>5714922
Primed

>>5717041
Don't use a dremel, just use coarse grained sanding sticks so you can at least control the sanding. Also, sand in one direction, yes it's more time consuming, but you will get better results.

I remember building that kit when I was younger, I was so proud of it, and my mom decided to smash it to pieces one day because she got angry at me for some reason. Did the same thing to a B-17 I had.

Anyways... I wish someone would come out with a newer 1:48 superfortress...

>>5717071
Revell can go fuck themselves forever, I ain't buying one of their shits again unless absolutely necessary

>>5717437
just read some reviews beforehand and all is fine

>>5714964
>Fucking whitewalls
Those ruskies know how to ride in style

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Started on the Indianapolis. 1 of 8 Oerlikon twin 20mm autocannons done... only took ~25 minutes to assemble one of them. The photo etch is really high quality though, it's tougher to bend than most others I've used, but it makes it more durable.

The downside is that these incredibly small pieces are very tough to bend into shape.

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>>5717556
>took ~25 minutes to assemble one of them
That's some nightmare fuel right there. I don't think I would be able to carry on thinking about how long the rest of the kit would take.

>>5717647
Granted, ~10 minutes was cutting dozens of parts out of the photo etch frets, so the remaining 7 haven't taken nearly as long. Each turret has only 11 parts, but getting them bent into the right position is a pain because the whole thing is smaller than my pinky.

Also have to file down some of these small ass pieces with a metal file to remove the nubs adding a lot of time... working with photo etch can be a bitch.

>>5717665
>has "only" 11 parts
>the whole thing is smaller than my pinky

Please stop. You're giving me PTSD.

>>5717556
Fuckin sick

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>>5717150
Do you have any rucksacks or ammo cans you can put on the turret bustle or the sides?

Ive been looking all over online for things like 1:72 armoured crews and small things like jerry cans, ammo cans, sleeping bags etc.

>>5718352
It already has ammo cans on the turret bustle. I just want to pump out this kit and be done with it. I didn't plan to do much with it.

>>5717556
How do you do it? Building ships is my nightmare

>>5717150
Sprayed the sand color

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>>5719825

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Done with oils, now to let it dry for two days and start with chipping and mud
>>5717556
>>5719829
Fuck me those things are tiny

>>5720145
is that a replaced wheel?

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>>5720219
Long story short shit happened and this half finished kit and a dragon elephant sat for more than eight years under the stairs. This summer I've picked up doing scale models again and these two were going to be the warm up/test beds for new techniques. The kv1 was almost finished but had a lot of troubles: one track is plastic links the other is vinyl, the saw and the clear part of the front light are mia and some wheels were missing when I've started to repainted it (that's why some parts looks olive drab and others dark green) and when I found them I reeeeally didn't feel like painting them because I wanna do the muddiest tank ever (I never weathered my other kits) to see. Also the "Ben" has some misspainted zones, but that's me trying to be cool and give it an informal frontline look that looked cool when I did them but now I'm not sure. So whatever you see that seems off its not "scale model magazine cool" but lucky mistakes/test, except the turret in general that pleases me a lot and looks more or less how I planned

>>5720145
I think it looks nice. Especially for a "test bed".

>>5718352

http://eshop.friendshipmodels.org.uk/

>>5720285
Not the guy youre replying to, but I think it looks good

>I paid $13.00 for this

Holy fuck, Jiminez is such a fucking cheap fuck. I should have known better though. I mean it's better than my over-scale thick white EZ-line, but there's hardly anything to work with here.

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>>5721736
Forgot the image.

>>5721739
Where did you buy it? It's 4.50 Euros.

>>5721739

Buy a cheap black party wig...use that. Or get a girlfriend and use her hair.

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>>5721806
>get a girlfriend
yeah... right...

>>5721739

What thickness EZ Line were you using because you can get a 100' spool for almost that money and it's only 0.05mm thicker.

http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/ez-line-fine-black-2233-p.asp

>>5703339
I'm really afraid to get into scale modeling of tanks/planes because I'm really bad at painting and gluing. Are there any decent quality scale model kits that don't require either of those? Am I a pleb for wanting that?

>>5721739
>>5721736
>http://www.migjimenez.com/en/48-accessories
what >>5721754 said, how could you pay 13$?

>>5721814
>EZ line
Wew

http://www.uschivdr.com/shopping-categories/shop-rigging-and-various/

>>5721754
>>5721836
ebay. Searched 1/350 ship rigging and bought the result. Should have looked around more obviously before I bought it. Three were apparently cheaper listings that I missed.

>>5721806
doesn't work well because it's not elastic.

>>5721912
This is the same brand that MIG uses, they just give you fucking nothing for more money.

Similar to how they sell "Pigment Fixer" which is just mineral spirits in a small jar for $10.

>>5721814
>http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/ez-line-fine-black-2233-p.asp
The thing I dislike about EZ line from my experience using it is that unless you pull it to a very high tension, it tends to show too thick. It's not round, it's actually a flat piece that only appears like a thin wire when stretched to its maximum.

I don't know what thickness I was using though, it is a little too thick for ship rigging though. It is white too meaning I have to paint it which is a pain in the ass.

>>5721973
>doesn't work well because it's not elastic.

Cheap wigs are made of Nylon...

Also, human hair stretches well enough for rigging. And at roughly 0.1mm dia. is pretty perfectly in scale.

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Plugging away with HB's Ju-88 C-6. For a kit with about 30 parts there as more cleaning up required than I would have thought.

>>5721813
get a boyfriend

;P

>>5722126
Nice, what scheme will you use?

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>>5713331
>tfw there are no rigging diagrams
>tfw pic related is the best I have to figure out where the bloody rigging goes on the bottom
but hey, at least it's actually white(ish)

yours looks 2thick4me senpai

>Get new model
>Upper hull is twisted and the front parts are bent out of shape

Is there anyway to fix this?

>>5723190
Get a replacement part ordered.

>>5723190
Pics?

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>>5722647

Like this. With a heavily weathered winter distemper.

>>5722126
>about 30 parts
It's one of those begginer kits that cost like 8-10€?

>>5723487
>>5723487

Yes. It's one of the 'Easy Kits'. I'm pretty time poor so it looked like a good way of getting something finished. I had to scratch up a basic cockpit, added some etch (for the Hasegawa kit) and some proper armament. But I got to this stage faster than a 'traditional' kit.

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>>5722126

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I can't wait for the end of the month when I can buy this little cutie.

>>5724128
What kit?

>>5724150
Tamiya 1/48 British 7 Ton Armoured car Mk.IV

>>5724128
Looks as detailed as a 1/72 kit

>>5724199
It costs just as much too

>>5723737
Preshading on that looks GORGEOUS. I wish my preshading did

Progress on my Indianapolis is going really slow. These turrets are a chore to build, and I haven't had the time to build much.

The resin parts are are lot less high quality than the instructions make them look, they're not awful, and have good detail compared to injection molds, but the pieces are so tiny and fragile. Instructions aren't the best, even though they are full color and in many cases photographs, it's hard to make out specific connection points and details due to the small print size.

Then there's the fact that the smaller bofors brass barrels don't fucking fit into the tiny ass holes in the resin, and it's so thin that you cannot bore a larger hole to make them fit properly. I've resorted to cutting off the plug of the brass barrel and just gluing it directly onto the resin, which is sloppy and hard to align properly.

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>>5724860
I always fucking forget to attach the damn image.

>>5724862
This is the stuff of nightmares.

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Aoshima release 1/700 HMS Hermes late in june

>>5724862
I wonder what it'll feel like to smash those tiny bits flat

>theres even more PE parts
godspeed

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>>5724862

>>5724848

Cheers. It's a little more high contrast 'in the plastic' but it'll settle down with some weathering and varnish. I've done the starboard wing now, had a bit of a boo-boo where some thinner splattered on the wing and took it back to primer, but most of that will be covered by the yellow wing tips so it's not the end of the world.

I was a bit disappointed in the AK paints during those two spraying sessions. The first time I used them they were fine but the RLM 65 just wouldn't play nice, or maybe I was just having a bad day.

>>5724860
Looking forward to seeing the finished model in 2020.
>>5725233
Looks like that one is below the water line though. How are Aoshima kits overall? Especially compared to Fujimi.

Who makes the best 1/72 F-4?

>>5705806

That X-Wing is built backwards

>>5726049
What if needs to shoot on rear targets?

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Little update, done with chipping (should done it before the oil washes I think lookin at it now) and the engine area. Tomorrow mud and done
>>5724862
Wew, that's operating on another level.
>>5723737
Nice preshading

>>5725856
Revell

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>>5726176
>operating

>>5726096

Doesn't matter, everyone knows Imperial Stormtroopers and their space cadet aviator counterparts can't shoot worth a damn anyway

>>5726178
I dont believe it. Anything than what I can find at a Michaels for 7 bucks?

>>5725602
Aoshima's newest waterline kits have been slightly below to on par with Fujimi's latest kits. Their old kits (reissues from the 1970s and 80s) have terrible detail, but they've really upped their game since 2000 or so.

>>5726483
>I don't believe it
Then fuck you. Use google, you little shit

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>>5721806
I actually tried using my friends hair for rigging on my 1/700 Atago and it worked better than expected. 40% of the rigging in this picture is human hair.
>>5726496
So if I have the choice between Aoshima and Fujimi I should go with Fujimi? So far I've only built Fujimi 1/700 and except for some poor fitting they've been good kits with nice details overall (I kinda feel like a Fujimi-shill writing this)

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>>5723413
To be honest this doesn't even look salvageable. It's Zvezda too so I'm not so sure about getting a replacement. Should I just take it to a local store and see what they can do about it?

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>>5726713
looks fucked

fucked enough to get a replacement part or a refund.

Speaking of Zvezda, I got these two from my local hobby store to add to the backlog recently. I'm probably going to go back and get the Mi-24V which I missed the first time around. These were surprisingly cheap at around 20USD each

>>5726523
hey guys, whats the best made car available?

>1993 toyota camry. Dont believe me? Fuck you.

This is what you sound like.

>>5726848
Are you retarded?

>>5726713
That doesn't look too bad except for the left fender. Does in have a piece missing or is it just broken? Right fender can be passed as a dent during battle.

>>5724862
For the holes, heat a pin and you should be able to widen the resin holes.

>>5716827
>>5716725
>>5716924
Never-mind, I found some:
https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/OWL72014

Now I thought it would be easy to find a good widow in 1/72, and that the decals would be the hard part, but apparently my only options are: The old Dragon kit, the even older airfix kit, or wait for the Hobbyboss kit.

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>>5719829
Doing a wash

Why did the paint come out of my airbrush all speckly?

>>5727283
you probably need to deep clean your brush

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>>5727290
fuck

how do I do that?

>>5727283
that's usually low air pressure. something to remember if you specifically want that effect.

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I went on a shopping spree of these things. I've tried the oil stains one and it's quite handy, if anyone wants me to try one and see what it does just ask
>>5727248
Do you have some attachment to these models? Because they look kinda cool mixed...

>>5727328
Both models areby Dragon and the turret ring diameters are the same. The t-34 turret fits even better than the Bradley one.

>>5726994
It's straight up broken as I didn't find the missing piece in the box.

>>5727296
>Not being able to understand something that is self explanatory.
What are you a megacucks fag?? Are you serious... how do i deep clean a brush???? Do you need the chastity belt again???

>>5727381
It's not actually my airbrush, my friend usually cleans it after I use it, if it's not done by him, it's not right, y'know?

>>5727336

can you take a picture of a bradley turret on the T-34?

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>>5727391

>>5727426
That wash must have been one hell of a drug.

>>5727426

Thank you.

Makes me want to buy a whole bunch of dragon kits and just swap out their turrets.

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>>5727445
What can go wrong

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>>5727605

>>5727605
Cute

>>5727296
You take it apart and clean it.

>>5727607
I kinda want to do this.

>>5726596
Again, It really depends on the kit, as both Fujimi and Aoshima have a huge range in quality. Generally, the Fujimi options are better, but there are a number of notable exceptions, Like the Aoshima Fuso/Yamashiro, Nagato/Mutsu, and Unryu class carrier are all better than the fujimi offering.

Were you looking at a specific ship subject?

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Finally got LEDs delivered. Learning to solder was easier than I thought.

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Building this Silvia S15, not to sure on the colour.
I have stripped it since taking this photo, too much orange peel

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All done with all the smaller caliber weapons.

I don't even know where to start with the rest of the build. The pontos instructions are honestly pretty bad, the color images are nice, but they are very vague at giving actual instructions for certain parts about which order to do things in.

Can a wash or filter still be applied after the model has been drybrushed?

>>5728857

Yes. A filter is normally one of the very last things applied anyway as it's used to bring everything else together.

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>>5729056
>A filter is normally one of the very last things applied anyway as it's used to bring everything else together
It goes right after painting before a wash

>>5729058
A filter needs a matte surface, so it would be nonsense to apply it last. I apply filters after painting and before decals.

>>5728857
It can, but itll cover the drybrush and youll have to do it again

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Done with the dry mud. Now mate varnish and redo the oil stains (poor planning) and do the fresh mud. It's quite brittle and the same results can be done with pigments, plaster of Paris and water, but the colors are always the same unlike the pigments and it's so easy like this. The streaking kit is quite useless, I like oils better. The dusting effects are like pigments but harder to control, atleast for me. The oil and rust set is quite good as I can't reproduce them as good. Overall I'm quite surprised how this came out for a test
>>5728530
Remember to put some resistor (1k ohm or whatever). Also check if they are visible from outside or if the light is too strong or not, because these little details can ruin a great job
>>5728654
I'm not much into car models, but perhaps doing some finer coats at a distance will give a smoother finish. Also glossy varnish tend to "smooth" things, atleast on afvs
>>5728745
Shitty instructions are such pain in the ass, whether when they leave pieces out or they are just a clusterfuck. Anyway I'm still amazed with your shimakaze and these little guns

>>5727804
I'm building a Fujimi Yamashiro right now, I guess I chose the wrong one. I've been thinking about getting a Mutsu or a Yamato after I'm done with Yamashiro.
>>5728745
Glad to see that you're making progress
>>5729178
It's looking really nice now. Makes me want to build a Russian tank too.

>>5729178
Looks good anon, but I would try to tone down the mud just a little bit, unless you are doing a very muddy diorama that is. Also try to remove it from the flat surfaces of the wheels themselves since mud won't really build up that much there due to the movement and friction.

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>>5729203
>>5729346
Thanks. I wanted to do it extra dirty/muddy to see and test, also to cover up the tracks/wheels because they were in quite bad shape and didn't wanna have to rebuilt and repaint them. I'm thinking of doing a small base and represent the rasputitsa, pic related, so the extra mud doesn't look out of place. Or perhaps near a river like holding the line in a riverside

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I've started work on the actual hull itself. Glued and sanded / puttied both halves together.

Pontos includes large steel frets for the decking that you lay over the plastic parts after cutting / sanding off details that are replaced with turned brass parts.

They also include these masks that fit right over the steel parts to replicate the anti-slip surfaces found on the steel parts of the deck. I'm going to have to leave all the small details off the deck until they're painted which is probably a pain in the ass. I also have to sand down / cut off the raised anti-slip molding on much of the upper rear decks.

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I'm starting the base, my first diorama so it'll be quite bad I think, but practice makes perfect. Anyway I'm gonna mix some Paris plaster to make the ground and see if it breaks when it dries and how much does it take to dry.

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>>5731289
It'll probably be fine. You managed to apply mud to the tank nicely so making a mud field shouldn't be above your level.

I've finished most of the main structures on my Yamashiro.

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Done with the base mud, it dried faster than planned and was a mess to work with it. Also I've lost the fucking pigments so I'll have to paint it, I'm going to use a vajello wash that one friend gave me, and I know why he was so keen to give it away... So acrylic sepia wash base color for the mud
>>5731327
Looks Nice, I kinda like the cannons in those positions although at first looked weird. But I guess they are articulated (?)

Could you tell a complete noob the basic steps for painting an airplane kit?

>>5731896
Could you use Google and Youtube?

>>5731909
No

>>5731896
>step one
>paint the cockpit

>step two
>assembly the plane around the cockpit

>step three
>paint the rest of the plane

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>>5731912
>spoonfeed me, guise

>>5731896
That's a pretty unspecific question you've got there but I guess you would need some paints, thinner and some brushes or an airbrush.
I hope it works out for you.

>>5731896
>open up, here comes the airplane~ brooom brooooommm broom

Just this time because I'm bored waiting for this to dry

https://youtu.be/h112KInEwB0

>>5729073
Before decals? Wouldn't the filter help to blend the decals more into the vehicle and make them stand out less?

>>5729073

Depends on how you will do the filters and the look you want.

I do everything, including decals, and gloss coat it before using oil paints to do the filters. After it dries I add the last coat.

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Nautilus guy here.

Fuck. I spent all weekend constructing a lighting rig. 8 leds, 4 strands. Got it all condensed and fit into the model. Everything worked. Super happy. Get the top on. Everything worked.

There was a huge gap in the top, so I sealed it with filler. Now the lights arent working.

Im freaking out so much

>>5732402
I tried LEDs once.

That sounds like a fucking nightmare.

>>5732405
It was working perfectly. Im so fucking on edge right now. Im trying to stay out of my mode room but its all I can think about

>>5732018
Well, seeing as I'm using mostly white decals, don't they get discolored when using a filter?

>>5704667
Awesome pic!

>>5732452
You think that maybe the putty is causing a short? You have quite a few exposed wires in there.

>>5732976
I think its probably his shitty wiring. what a fucking mess. either somethings touching something else, or his shitty solders have broken.

https://www.youtube.com/user/ScaleModelMedic

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Omh1p6n1734

>>5732630
I don't really know how to make my decals stand out less. Most of the time, they end up looking too different from the background colors.

The mud base is coming along quite good I think, pics later perhaps if it dries today
>>5732402
This is going to short, be careful with the isolating. The resistors will help, but if it shorts and is "on" for a while it might melt the plastic or create a fire hazzard. Other than that it seems that will look cool, but why did you paint the halves before putting it all together?

>>5733056
Figured it out. Decided it was ruined as is, so I cracked it open. A few wires were touching when compressed, so I insulated them. All better.

It was my first time ever soldering, so I'm not too worried about the mess.

time for a new thread, move along please.

>>5733109
>>5733109
>>5733109