Scale Plastic Model Thread

Playing Blitzkrieg sure gives me a hankering to build something in German Grey.
Thing is, there's nothing too cheap except crappy old tamiya kits.

>>5576919
Its not the kit, its what you do with it that counts, but don't let that step in the way of your excuses.

Is anybody able to give me the tamiya equivalents of a few revell colours:
Sand matt 16 (sandy yellow)
Seegrun matt 48 (sea green)
ziegelrot matt 37 (reddish brown)

If any of you have a link or a pdf version of a conversion chart, that would also be really helpful.

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Doing a wash on the Hetzer and got a KV-2 out of the storage from a year ago if anyone remembers that.
Is anyone gonna finish a kit for the GB? I only remember a guy who built an SU-100.

>>5576929
You what? Old Tamiya stuff isn't bad, but is too basic for my liking.

I accidentally bought Vallejo Red Oxide Paste instead of a Red Oxide Paint meant for ship bottoms. While the colour is the same, on opening it I realised it has this sand-like texture and quick google revealed it's meant for painting red desert/Mars type bases.

Can I still use that for my 1/400 DD? If not then which paint would you recommend before I make another stupid purchase?

>>5576948
that barrel is extremely soothing
not really sure why

>>5576919
Most Tamiya kits from ~1990 onwards are excellent and cheap. for example, their mustang kit is from 1996 or so and it's still widely regarded today. In fact most of the 90s-early 00s Tamiya aircraft and armor kits are not that expensive.

>>5576936
There's plenty of color charts available online, not too sure how accurate they are. Are those RAF colors or something?

You could simply find out what camouflage colors they are and try to find mixing instructions for those colors using Tamiya paints.

>>5576948
KV looks great, why did you stop working on it?

>>5577009
those are german colours for muh tiger 1, but i think ill have a look at a few conversion charts online.

>>5577009
Didn't liike how the modulation came out but since it's already painted it can be weathering practice because I have very few completed models.

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>>5576973
Really you should be using paint, think if you want to build any more ships in your life youre going to want the right paint.

sticking with Vallejo I think pic related is one id defiantly want in my paint stash for red oxide, but there are many variances of red oxide.

you may find you want to add a touch more red to it.

>>5577115
I think the modulation looks alright. You could always alter the modulation by just painting a very thinned base coat over the entire model to blend everything together.

>>5577079
So it's basically Olivegrun, Dunkelgelb and Rotbraun, correct? Those are the basic german AFV camouflage colors.

You can make Dunkelgelb, which is usually the base color by mixing XF-60 with a small amount of XF-57 to lighten it up a little bit.

Olivegrun varied a lot, and there were lighter and darker shades of it, but a medium green would be a good place to start, not sure what colors you would mix for it though.

Rotbraun you coulf use XF-64, red brown and mix it with some XF-10 or a few drops of flat black to darken it.

I'd like to learn to cast parts. Anyone with resin experience have a recommendation on what types work well for small detail parts? There are so many materials and viscosities it's pretty confusing.

>>5577449
I'd have to see how this colour looks like on the actual ship to tell anything. The camo pic definitely shows a more red colour. Maybe even more red than Red Oxide.

Since I'll be hunting for colours again, I just wonder now what to do with that paste, I don't really paint any bases.

>>5577585
Not personal experience, but the first thing that comes to mind

https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Casting

Scroll to the pics.

>>5576936
You seem to be looking for ambush pattern camo, or at least German tank camo, right?
For the yellow, try using something darker. Try mixing Tamiya dark yellow and Buff 50/50, comes out real nice.
For the Ziegelrot, I believe Tamiya Schokobraun is a good choice. (The Ziegelrot very closely matches the German red primer however) Don't know about the green tho.

>>5577668
Damn, I'm blind, or so it seems. Do what
>>5577555 said.

>>5577668
>>5577555
cheers guys, screencapped your posts.

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>building ship with teeny photo etched netting
>afraid when I paint it the paint is going to fill the little pinholes that make up the net and it's going to look like garbage

>>5577637
>https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Casting
>fa/tg/uy shit
just watch some vegeta's jewtube videos on casting, much more relevant

>>5577585
>small detail parts
how small? with resin you *can* get small enough that the shit won't cure

OFFICIAL AIRBRUSH FOR GENERAL MODELLING POWER RANKINGS

1. Badger 105, 155, 360 series(double taper needle allows for a huge amount of variation)
2. Iwata Eclipse

POWER GAP

3. Paasche TG#2L(great airbrush at a great price)
4. Harder & Steenbeck Evolution
5. Iwata HP+ series
6. Grex Genesis series (super gay green airbrushes)

POWER GAP
7. Iwata spray gun series(a must have for smooth and gloss finishes)
8. Badger 350 (just a good simple single action)

POWER GAP

901. Iwata neo series
902. Vega series

POWER GAP

>buying an expensive detail airbrush and expecting it to work well as a work horse pleb tier
9001. Custom Micron(spending that much on an airbrush)
9002. Harder Steenbeck infinity(spending that much on an airbrush)
9002. Badger Renegade series (poormans micro custom)

POWER GAP

9000000000000000000000000000000001. Any chinese cheap airbrush off of ebay

>>5578273
900000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001. Testors Aztek

>>5578273
I use a RK-1 Renegade and have literally zero issues with it.

Why are you even making this list anyways, I cannot judge any airbrush I haven't used, and the vast majority of modelers only own 1-2 airbrushes. Certainly you haven't used every single brush on that list, so how can you even make such judgements?

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>>5578273

>>5578183
Just thin your paints

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I've been waiting a week for this?
Not good modelcollect.
Anyway, the kit comes with a primed metal tub and DS-style tracks. The revell kit seems more detailed, but the plastic on this one is harder.

>>5578569
That makes me remember the awful plastic of the AFV club Sturmtiger Interior set.
I've never seen plastic as soft as that. And a nightmare to work with w/o screwing up. Thank god I got the Tamiya kit to make up for it.

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Almost done. I'm happy enough with the sculpt

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Hey scalemodelers, I'm feeling a little creative right now, so I'm thinking my next project I'm going to make an M5 stuart, but mad max themed with the Warboys riding on it too. Was planning on painting it black, as well as put spikes on it and accent it in chrome. Should be fun to do. Will paint a large skull on the front and it would be cool to decorate the tank with skulls but I'm not sure where to get those.

>>5578688
>skulls

look at wargaming ranges like Warhammer.

What scale do you intend? Tamiya's 35th scale m5 should suit your needs.

>>5578688
Secret Weapon Miniatures sell a bag of 50 resin skulls. If you want plastic ones you can search on ebay for games workshop skeleton skulls, not worth buying the actual box for them unless you want some medievalish skeletons as well.

Those are both in 28mm/1/56th scale though, not sure where you would get them for larger models.

>>5578569

>The revell kit seems more detailed

The molding is a little cleaner on the revell kit, but its actually less detailed in most areas and has some serious inaccuracies.

The modelcollect one is the best out of the box and to be blunt you don't have many choices.

Time to brush up them detailing skills fuccboi

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>>5578693
The Tamiya M5 in 1/35 is exactly what I had in mind and on order for this.
>>5578706
I might check with a local hobby store to see if they have anything in mind.

>>5578688
Sound pretty neat. What prior modelling skills do you have?

>>5578713
>>5578688
Itd be way cooler to do the bullet farmers car

>>5578922
I've been at it for about a year now, but I felt like I've only just now have been getting good at it.

>>5578381
>I haven't used those brushes thus the same must apply to you

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Eurofighter Typhoon (RAF)

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Tornado GR.1 (RAF)

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EA-18G Growler (US Airforce)

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F/A-18E Super Hornet (US Airforce)

Really new here but I like this board. Is there a thread about 1/6 figures?

I have a bunch of Windsor & Newton artist's oils, but they're water soluble.

Are they still adequate enough for modelling compared to regular artists' oils and enamels? I'm hesitant on using turpentines and linseed/sunflower oils, but mineral spirits are ok with me.

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>>5576948
Did a wash on the hull and chipping. It took forever to do the chipping and I overdid it again. So is anyone buiilding anything for the WWII GB?

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Started working on a Tamiya D-9 from my backlog. Eduard zoom set for the interior, and some quick boost exhausts for the exterior. Not the most accurate model, especially because it has the wrong landing-gear bay (for a Fw-190A, not D).

>>5579371
>>5579365
>>5579362
>>5579360
You need to [spoiler]thin your paints[/spoiler] anon. There's some good videos on how to hand-paint properly on youtube as well. Check out this guys channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWPk2gm6bRIouyW4pyEw7CQ

>>5579626
Nice progress, how are those mig acrylics? How would you compare them to vallejo / AK's if you've used them?

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Also fixed up the paint racks I built so they can hold more paint / make it more visible by just using some spare pieces of wood.

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WITNESS ME

These guys are going to ride on an M5 once it arrives.

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RIDE SHINY AND ETERNAL CHROME.

>>5579709
>>5579715
>>5579720
WITNESSED!!

What's a good "starter kit" and tools or whatever?

I'd like to get into building models it seems very cathartic

>>5579656
I only used one color from Vallejo. It was Dunkelgelb and it was pretty okay. I have a set of AK's NATO colors but haven used them on a model yet. I did try them out and they were performing well. I can't really talk about paints because I often haven inconsistent result when airbrushing stuff. Just yesterday when I was matt coating the Hetzer with Italeri's Matt coat it fogged up the paint job and it looked like it was frosted. The day prior I matt coated the road wheels and other small bits in the same varnish and it laid down fine with no discoloration. To fix the fogging effect I added some gloss varnish in the matt one and sprayed it on the hull and that seamed to fix it.
But yeah AMMO acrylics are pretty neat. I'll try to switch to them on my future builds. I want to try doing color modulation on my Tamiya M4A3 Sherman. The paint is alright but as I found it it takes a bit longer to cure. I'm using distilled water to thin my paints so I don't know if that affects the paints in any way. I'll have to get AMMO's paint thinner and test that out sometime. Also their varnish so I'd be safe when clear coating.

>>5580237
I'd say a lot of tamiya models are great gateway kits.They're generally pretty easy in that the instructions are well written, but also look very nice too. Perhaps go with Tamiya's new M4A3E8, if you like american tanks. As someone who has built just short of a dozen tanks, the M4A3E8 is my favorite.

>>5580237
The new Airfix and Tamiya kits are pretty straight forward and have easy fits.

Maybe build an armour kits because they often only need one color(in which case buy a spray can)

You'll need a hobby knife(Xacto), a cutter(you probably can get away with scissors), and sanding sticks.

from here you can build a pretty okay model

another newfriend here with a question, what do I use to clean my brushes after using enamel/oil based paint?

>>5580315
I just use soap and warm water, or paint thinner when its caked on too thick/long. Totally unsure if its the right thing though.

>>5579709
So awesome

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done. Probably the most modifications Ive ever done to a model

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aнoн, \/aт aм i бooiИ9 wrong? when i'm diluting humbrol paint with odorless paint thinner i get a sediment that clogs the airbrush. but when i add some acetone, i get picrelated.

>>5580431
Thanks, anon!

>>5580237
>What's a good "starter kit"

What do you want to build? Tanks, planes, ships, cars? Tell us what you want to build and i'm sure the people in here can recommend you a good starter kit from that genre.

Tools:
Get a hobby knife, a small sidecutter (like for fine electronics) and plastic glue.

>>5580432
Good job sculpting that leg.

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lol 2logs

>>5580461
Only use one, then you'll have a
"backlog" lying around.
Hurr, hurr

>>5580438
srsly, guays, how do you thin humbrol enamel?

>>5580510
Mineral spirits I guess

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>>5580510
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+thin+Humbrol+enamels

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>>5580312
>>5580237
I would suggest the opposite. Go with the older Tamiya kits from the 1970s, for example their T-34 kit. It's an old kit that still holds up relatively well today. Their older Panzer II kit is also a good starting place, and it is super inexpensive.

My meaning is that you don't want to start off with a brand-new kit. You want to start off with older, extremely cheap kits to practice on and get better. Newer Tamiya kits run ~$50 each, whereas the older kits are ~$10-15.

I suggest you start with some armor, such as the T-34 I mentioned. This is the kit by the way.

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/122081-tamiya-35059-t-34-76

>>5580510
>>5580438
Mineral spirits, otherwise known as white spirit in Europe? The paint could very well be bad though if it is clumping like that, or you are using the wrong type of thinner, what type of odorless thinner was it? Humbrol's own brand I think is basically just white spirit.

That said, I avoid using Humbrol enamels due to bad experience with them in the past. I would switch to acrylics if I were you, so much easier to work with than enamels.

>>5580432
What exactly did you sculpt, just the legs to get him in that pose? It looks great though.

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dem grills

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>>5580609
Started off like this: cut off legs, and completely sculpted them for the new pose

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>>5580627
>>5580609
Also had to create an entirely new right hand

Gotta say, I enjoyed the T-64 kit more.

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>>5581245
Picture didn't upload. fug

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>>5581254
This is it for tonight

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Has anyone here built a 1/35 RC scale model out of scratch? I want to make an LAV-25 fully amphibious , but have not done it before. Does my design seem feasible?

>>5580510
You can easily get generic paint thinner at most DIY stores that'll thin both enamel and acrylic and is cheap as piss. Just look in the paint section and you should be able to find a tin of it.

>>5579709
>>5579715
>>5579720
based
the warbois look awesome and the props are impressive. Good paint job also

>>5581831
There are probably dedicated RC forums.
But, as long as you have decent engineering skills, you should be okay

>>5580600
I was suggesting more new airfix kits(the old ones suck)

But yeah I couldn't agree more the only tamiya kits are amazing, simple but have a lot of detail and cheap!

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I emailed Tamiya about replacement parts last friday. They responded on monday (closed weekeds I think) and shipped out the replacement parts no questions asked, free of charge.

Tamiya parts replacement support is pretty damn based. Only bad thing is they didn't have one of the replacement parts I needed for a 1/32 A6M5 in stock, but said they would send one when they have it available.

By the way, the other part I got was a replacement for a Nakajima Gekko type 11 which I will probably work on in the near future.

>>5582104
I agree about the new airfix kits too though, because they are some of the cheapest kits available honestly.

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>>5579626
Well, lads didn't make it to the deadline.

Did someone save all the pictures of the WW2 models that were posted until today for the group build?

>>5582347
Looks pretty good. What happened to the paint below the canopy?

>>5582444
I like the chips that you made under the barrel and at the outer edges.
There are too many chips at the hatches and you placed alot of them just too randomly over the surface.
You gotta consider that alot of tanks didn't surivive for more than a month.
Is that dark green you used for the chips?

>>5582664
Inside of the canopy got fogged up during airbrushing, so I attempted to remove it using a xacto knife to clean it up. Fucked it up real good when I did and it broke in two, so I had to get a replacement from Tamiya which I'll paint today.

>>5582670
Oh that sucks. I thought only customers in Japan can get a refund? Or was that Hasegawa?

I use wood glue to stick together the canopy parts. It dries clear and the canopy doesn't get foggy.

>>5582679
meant to say replacement*

>>5582679
Nope, Tamiya USA has their own office in the US that you can call or email for replacement parts (if they have them) free of charge apparently.

I thought I was going to have to pay them for the parts but I just sent them 1 email describing the parts I damaged / missing and they sent it no questions asked. Pretty great honestly.

>>5582679
Oh, it wasn't the glue that fucked up the canopy by the way, it was the way the kit is designed. The landing gear is not completely closed from the inside of the fuselage, and there's these gaps where there's no plastic and air can get in. Combine that with a small gap on the sides of the cockpit and fumes from airbrushing were able to get inside the cockpit into the canopy and fog it up. I usually mask off the canopy's inside, or just leave the canopy off all together for aircraft, but this time I decided to glue it on to make things easier. Not going to do that again...

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72 scale, 205 parts, zvezda t-90.

>>5578688
I'm thinking about doing the same thing with some car and truck kits.
Was inspired by this guy's work to give it a go
http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?410006-Mad-Mork-A-Fury-Road-Inspired-Ork-Log

>>5582692
That makes sense. How did Tamiya not think about this? Is that an old kit?

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>>5580523
>>5580607
>>5581834
thanks guys. apparently, you have to mix them very thoroughly at room temperature, and maybe poor the paint into the solvent. i know that sounds weird, but it works.

>>5582664
>Did someone save all the pictures of the WW2 models that were posted until today for the group build?

>implying anyones that dedicated or gives that much of a fuck.

people were just posting models, don't think anyone gave a fuck about the group build.

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>>5582714
It is an awesome kit.
Shame about the tracks tho.

eu tu двaч crossposter?

>>5582826
da.

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>>5582826
>>5582870
so much detail...

>>5582826
What's wrong with the tracks?

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>>5583223
Semi-bendable one piece plastic that is not DS or the same plastic that the tank is actually made of.
If you don't chop them up to segments, they aren't gonna fit around the chassis and will break the arm for the front idler.

>>5583060
it's like 6 'o clock in Russia, what the fuck comrade?!

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>>5583238
Wrong picture, fuck
It leaves a nasty gap if you try to do it following the instructions.

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>>5583238
>it's like 6 'o clock in Russia, what the fuck comrade?!
i live in montreal.

>>5582757
Well, I tried to finish my build until 31st of March, but it seems I overestimated my speed.

What is the 'old tamiya kits are good meme' even?
The panzer iv I've been building has made me wish I had spent £15 extra and got an actual good kit

>>5583817
>What is the 'old tamiya kits are good meme' even?

Good for beginners. Nobody says they are in the same league as modern/current kits.

>>5583817
>'old tamiya kits are good meme'
What old kits are good?!

>>5583880
I actually like the old 1:76 matchbox (reboxed by revell) alot. These little dioramas are a nice touch.

>>5583916
Shame about the god-awful tracks.

>>5583928
True.

But the wheeled vehicles don't suffer from that problem.

My personal favorite was Montys Caravan.

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Went back and did some weathering and other alterations to my bf 109. Started with masking the ailerons and airbrushing a highly thinned dark grey over the inside of the panels to give it some depth.

Then, I airbrushed a highly thinned black-brown mixture for the exhaust smoke / soot and forward mgs.

I added the wire rigging using e-z line. The propeller and some of the fuselage and wings were chipped using a light grey colored pencil, as well as a silver pencil.

Masked the replacement canopy and airbrushed it, followed by some light dry brushing and a flat coat, then glued it on. Decided to keep the cockpit open this time so you can actually see the detailed cockpit.

Also did pigment weathering on the wheels / tired as well as some of the underside of the aircraft. Only thing I have left to do is a little more pigments in a few spots on the underside as well as weather the fuel tank.

>>5584468
>>5584464
>>5584456
looking hella nice.

>>5584456
Looks incredible

>>5583817
they're simple and have good fits with fairly good detail.

they're great considering their age and cost

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The headlight covers are atrocious.

>>5585371
Perhaps you could thin them out somewhat using a scalpel and needle file?

>>5585401
I feel more inclined to make them out of wire, but I don't have a good rigid wire to spare.
The blue one in the background is a weird, twisted plastic embedded shit, that I should have made the tow cable from.

Just had an absolutely fantastic airbrush session. I reckon I've finally tamed the airbrush, there were only a few hitches.
I got my 1/48 Dingo painted (did a bit of modulation, not too good, but okay.) and I painted my komintern tractor. Modulation looks pretty nice one that too.
They are both glossed and I should be able to brush paint various tyres and tools.
Also, I really want a Somua. D'you reckon I could weather an easymodel one or something? I can't afford the Tamiya kit.

>>5585582
Post pics fool

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Just ordered pic related. What colour do yall think I should do it in? I like the red like its depicted on the revell box but Im also tempted to do it in some gloss black.

>>5585776
trabant blue or ivory

>>5585776
Orange

>>5585776
How about a darker shade of blue? Maybe a metallic blue color. It's not like you're striving for historical accuracy, are you?

>>5586180
>It's not like you're striving for historical accuracy, are you?
No, I just want it to look nice.

I'm new in non-mecha plamo and decided to get my first ship kit. How good are the Arpeggio kits? I'm saving up for Haguro and I want if the plastic is not as brittle as Kotobukiya's and if the decals are waterslide type

Who remembers that anon who thought decals were stickers?

>>5587060
The one who built a few ships?

>>5587079
the one who had that NGE display

Currently working on a Magach 6B tank model, one of the side skirt panels was fucking warped, and one of the .50 cal's barrels was bent very badly, practically snapped and dangling off.Lets hope I can fix this shit

Just got an Eduard Spit Mk XVI bubbletop in. I promise I'll thin my paints this time.

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Also finished these two, kept them simple. I'm new to all this so they are hand painted and I didn't want to mess with weathering just in-case I would fuck it up. Waiting on my gunmetal paint to come in so I can paint the machine guns.

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The colors are kinda bland on this one

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My first ever airbrush job and my second tank.
First i had problems with the primer - is was all flaky and chalky. Then the paint was falling of at the slightest touch which gave me lots of white spots.

>>5588022
What primer did you use?

>>5588543
tamiya surface primer.

>>5588783
That's weird. Tamiya's primer is excellent. How did you apply it?

Anybody able to recommend a decent airbrush for me? Ive never done it before so its all very foreign to me. Budget isnt really an issue, as long as its good quality.

>>5588792
>Budget isnt really an issue
Harder and steenbeck infinity cr plus.
large needle/tip size range.
wont ever need to upgrade to anything else.

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>>5588816
>>5588792
I wouldn't recommend spending $300 on an airbrush regardless of money.

You want to start off with something mid-range, especially if you have no idea what you're doing. Best not to throw money away on something you have no idea how to use properly.

Start with something like a Badger patriot, or an Iwata eclipse. Either one of those options are great starter airbrushes. The H&S airbrush isn't even that much better than the likes I mentioned anyways, they're very over-priced. Nice looking, yes, but they don't do anything a cheaper airbrush does better honestly.

My personal choice would be the eclipse. I don't use one personally, but I know people that do and it's a great airbrush to start out with. Maybe one day if you want to go all out and spend a fortune on an airbrush, you should, but not when you're just starting out and know nothing about using one.

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>>5589111
I whole heartedly agree with the mid range choice for first timers. I'm hardly pushing the capabilities of my HP-C+, a step down from the eclipse and I've been airbrushing for a solid 2 years now.

>>5588792
Badger 105 Patriot is a great starter airbrush

I use a harbor freight airbrush and feget great results.

>>5588792
>>5589111
>>5589173

pretty much this, both brushes have amazing variation. it's great for beginners but can also find itself as a work horse for more advanced modelling.

however I personally would recommend the patriot, it's a bit more simpler and slightly easier to clean. but once again both brushes are a great choice.

>>5589161
I have the HP-SB+ I feel like it's more of a fine line brush, although I know the C+ has a bit wider nozzle

>>5588816
>>5589111
>>5589161
>>5589344
Thanks guys, Ill look into the airbrushes you recommended me.

If I understand correctly, I also need a machine, a compressor I think its called. This true, lads?

As you may have figured out, I have absolutely no idea which is which so all advice is really appreciated.

>>5589365
Yes, you will need a compressor. I recommend getting one with a large tank as it's very annoying to have the compressor constantly running.

Also check for one with a moisture filter if you live in a humid area, always a good idea though honestly moisture won't have that much of an effect except it will definitely corrode the inside of your tank over time.

>>5589378
By the way, this is the compressor I use. I airbrush indoors and it's quite loud, but it's not eardrum-bursting loud.
http://www.amazon.com/Senco-PC1010-1-Horsepower-1-Gallon-Compressor/dp/B0000AQK78

Been using this one for 3 years now. The inside of the tank is pretty corroded due to moisture, and it doesn't have a moisture trap built in either. I have made the mistake of not draining it regularly enough though.

If you want something more quiet you should look into airbrushing specific compressors though that are a lot smaller, like an iwata compressor.

>>5589378
>>5589383
Cheers, ive added it to my amazon basket and order it soon.

Recently moved and theres a good model shop near me, so i can always compare prices there too. I dont think too humid in the south of England so perhaps the moisture filter isnt necessary, but Im not a weatherman.

>>5589529
There are other compressors too you should check out, ones more designed for airbrushing I guess.

Make sure if you get a hose you get one that can connect properly to both your airbrush and compressor as well. Pretty sure the compressor I use has a 1/4" hose connection, and most airbrushes have a 1/8", though badger's stuff is a little different.

>>5589552
Ill probably have to spend a few days learning and understanding the technical details of all these things, its quie complex.

>>5589529
what brush did you end up getting?

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Anyone got any experience with this kit, or any of the companies other works?

It's a bit pricy for a 1/72 but I liked the movie so I considered ordering it.

>>5587294
Is the M4 Italeri's? If so I had that, but the tracks broke so I ended up getting some replacement links.

>>5585371
What scale is this, it looks like 1/72.

>>5590207
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/image/10173154/10/0

looks pretty solid to me, Hasegawa has a decent reputation in my eyes as well

>>5590207
>20 bucks
Have you seen new model kit prices?

>>5590069
Havent got it yet, but I added the HS-SB and the badger 105. Ill take a trup up to my local model shop and compare the prices.

>>5590257
added it to my basket i meant

>>5588787
14 psi, i tried a with a 0.8 airbrush, but then changed to a 0.3 DA airbrush because it was flaking and stringing but it didn't help.

>>5590552
Did you add the right amount of laquer thinner?

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Finished my GB entry.

Not entirely happy with it but as it's only my 4th model and my second aircraft I'll treat it as a learning experience and move on.

First time using Tamiya paints and I still haven't gotten the hang of them yet as I got some poor finishes in places but I'll keep trying.

>>5590842
what type of thinner do you use for tamiya paints?

>>5590864

X-20A

>>5590257
you mean the HP-SBS? although I like the 105 and 360 more due to it's double taper needle, I love the side feed eclipse. almost all gravity feeds have too large of cups in my opinion.

Also if you get the side feed eclipse aztek side cups are compatible with it, they're a whole lot cheaper and clean easier.

>>5590882
when you feel more confident with airbrushing tamiya paints maybe try using it's laquer thinner, it will grip onto the model better to give it a realistic finish.

With that said your model looks great for being your 4th build! how did you mask the canopy?

>>5590917

Cheers. I normally get a better finish from Vallejo MA, but their RAF colours are wank.

It was a set of vinyl masks from P-Mask for the glass.

Will Mr. Color (not the leveling kind unfortunately) work as well?

I'll put some more pictures up if you're arsed.

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>>5590842
>4th model
>airbrush
>paint booth
>doesn't look like shit

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>>5590997

Cash rich (relativey) and time poor. It's much easier to buy stuff than it is to find time to build stuff.

Also, I used to paint Games Workshop figures until about 6 years ago so I do know the basics.

Here's every model I've done in order of completion. This is two and a half years worth of work.

>>5591019
>Mustang with Luftwaffe crosses

why

>>5591033

Why not?

It was part of the Wanderzirkus Rosarius. Seemed more interesting than NMF (which despite spending 60 quid on AK Xtreme metal paints I'm still not man enough to tackle).

Here:

http://www.mustang.gaetanmarie.com/articles/germany/germany.htm

>>5590997
Some people are not poor and want to invest time and effort in a hobby

>>5590920
I think so¿ I've never used it myself but my favourite YouTube modeller uses an automotive laquer for his Tamiya paints so persumably it will be find.

Nothing inheritily wrong with tamiyas alcohol thinner(it's good if you want something to dry quickly). I just find that it sometimes doesn't even out as well as I want to; The laquer thinner produces a smooth even and durable finish which the alcohol doesn't

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OMG, just bought lacquer thinner and sprayed a bit less than a ml in a paint trap and it still stinks in the room after half an hour. i'm probably gonna switch to stynylrez because i don't want to tolerate that smell.

>>5591243
Forgot to ask you, Anon: are tamiya surface primer and stynylrez/ultimate primer are the same in terms of giving a realistic finish?

>>5590831
What's the right proportion?

>>5591308
traditionally I do it to whatever consistency I spray paints with, I just feel like if it was not thinned enough if it was spitting

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Let's say a canopy is cracked to shit and rips in multiple pieces.

Which glues have the same index of refraction as clear styrene?

Hey guys I've been making the bandai star wars kits but now I've decided to move onto scale planes and things so I've bought a hasegawa 1/72 f16cj and I've assembled the kit and now it's time to paint it but since I'm totally new to all this I don't know what to do about the panel lines. The panel lines on my kit aren't too deep and if I paint it I'm worried they'll disappear, so what do you usually do about them? Do I use a knife and make them deeper?

>>5591188
>some people are not poor
I don't know this feeling

>>5591540

Kristal Klear is probably your best bet. But if it's as fucked as it sounds I think that ordering a new one or crash-moulding a replacement might be a better option.

What model is it for?

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>>5591659
Paints tend to shrink as they dry. Proper modelling paints shink just enough to avoid cracking and are able to be thinned sufficiently to preserve surface detail whilst also retaining enough pigment density to cover an area in colour.

If you suspect that your painting process will obliterate the panel lines, you may use a scribing tool either before OR after you prime to reintroduce them. If you're hand brushing, multiple light coats are better than one heavy one, and if you're airbrushing, so long as your coats are thinned enough to ensure a smooth surface and a good coverage, then you should be fine for kit lines. Pic is a model I built a decade ago. I used unthinned Revel enamels and a horrible brush yet you can still see most of the original kits panel lines.

How are you painting it by the way. I've built some Hasegawa kits with shallow and very wide panel lines before.

>>5591659
I'll tell you what to do, thin your paints.

>>5591750
I'm just going to use a brush and paint it on, and I guess I'll thin the paint

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>>5591796

For reference this is what can be achieved with a brush and patience. It's not mine but it shows that even a decent NMF can be gotten without the use of Alclads or an AB,

>>5591827
whhhaaaattt

more pls!

>>5591854

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235000047-tamiya-148-republic-p-47d-thunderbolt-bubbletop-brush-painted-nmf-update-040416-photos-added-of-the-underside/?p=2312572

>>5591827
quality flat brush is the important part here.

>>5592020

AFAIK he uses Humbrol brushes which I've found to be utter shit...but he seems to do fine with them. Same thing for people who get great results whilst using cheapo Ching-chong ABs.

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Is this a hard kit to assemble?

>>5592139
brand?
scale?

>>5592130

But I should also say that the job is made much easier by using quality tools. It's just that quality tools on their own won't make you good.

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Who's using stynylrez here? would you recommend it over tamiya primers?

>>5592234

Never used Tamiya primers but it's fuckloads better than Vallejo and AK's efforts.

It's PU, but sandable after a couple of hours. It's quite thick though, i find it sprays better after a REALLY good shake and a little warming up. Great self leveling properties too. I really hammered it on to a spoon when testing it to try and force a runs but once it'd dried they'd all dissipated and I had a nice very slightly satin finish.

>>5592234
its a real idiot proof primer, you can just slop it on and its kinda self levelling. plus you can sand it.
didn't like my cheap Chinese brush tho, but was fine with my H&S
I think this accounts for the few people who have problems with it.

Honestly, are primers even necessary? Most professional modelers I've seen don't use any primer at all, and just lay a base coat of the model's primary color directly onto the plastic.

The only "primer" I use is Mr. Surfacer, and it's not really a primer as it doesn't actually bind to the plastic, it's just a meant to cover up micro-scratches from sanding as well as highlight any defects I might need to putty over. After that I do pre-shading or just lay on the base coat if I'm doing post-shading.

>>5592258
Yes, I believe they are. It helps to have a light colour to basecoat onto and primer can highlight imperfections.
It also protects the model somewhat, although I've had primer scratch off very easily.

It's also good if the kit is mixed-media, it means the paint will not vary in shade

>>5592258
>Most professional modellers

citation needed

>>5592280
Just my experience reading modelling magazines over the years. Very rarely do I see anyone using a real primer, most of them utilize a base coat color, either one useful for the weathering effects / chipping they want to do, or one that is simply the base color of the vehicle which they will modulate with post shading and other effects.

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>>5592287
thumbing through what few magazines I do have, here are my results

Primer is an extremely important part of modelling and to say it is unnecessary is an uneducated assumption

And yes, Mr. Surfacer is a lacquer based primer. The key word is lacquer which eats into polystyrene and physically bonds to it

>>5592316
Not all lacquers are the same. Mr. Surfacer is based on a cellulose organic lacquer that does not attack the plastic itself. At least that's my experience using Mr. Hobby lacquers, I use them to clean off any type of paint off my models without damaging the plastic. I actually used it with some cotton swabs a few months ago to remove the paint from an older tank kit so I could re-paint it without damaging the plastic.

Most standard lacquers are based on acetone, methanol, ethyl acetate, toluene and other organic solvents that can dissolve polystyrene.

I think spray can lacquers like Tamiya for example do attack the plastic and bind to it making it much more difficult to actually remove the paint without damaging the plastic.

I guess it all comes down to how you define primer though, most people don't use spray can lacquers to prime, but use just a base coat of primer paint like Mr. Hobby, Alclad or whatever to get a layer down that allows your base coat to adhere better.

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>>5590831
i dunno, about half and half(maybe, a bit more than primer by volume) with a 0.3 needle.

>>5592429
Don't know about the Tamiya spray can primer but it can be removed by Wamod acrylic cleaner.

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one of my recent builds, Airfix 1/72 BPD

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>>5593675

Are there any decent brands that try to mold their kits in color like bandai does with some of their model lines? Particularly for planes?

>>5593682

lol matchbox molded planes in "color", but everyone just painted the over anyway. Also, I think Monogram did a run of pre-painted 1/48 scale aircraft.

but why would you want things molded in color? No access to paints?

>>5593688

I run a model building club that's essentially dominated by gunpla, and one of the people in my group REALLY wants to build a zero. My whole modeling experience is gunpla, sci fi models, and warhammer, and I know dick all about plane kits so I'm looking for an option that can hopefully satisfy what they are looking for without pushing them too far in to the deep end of the pool.

I can hold their hand, I just don't want them to get scared off.

>>5593693
That makes sense, I think a good start would be one of Airfix's 1/72 starter sets. I believe they do make one for an A6M2, and it comes with brushes, humbrol paints, and glue- the essentials that you'd need to get into the hobby.

I think that would be a good idea to help get their feet wet! It could also introduce them to painting/gluing in a friendly and inviting format.

>>5593695
Thanks, this looks like a pretty solid option for them. I have some pretty decent looking paint schemes that aren't too complicated for the place I can option for them. They needed to get their feet wet with the airbrush eventually.

>>5592258
It's needed with some paints such as soft finish paints like many acrylic solvent based paints or any metallic paints but especially alclad 2. I'm a tradtionalist who likes chipping Tamiya mixed with x-20 over a metallic finish.

With that said I've painted many kits with Tamiya paints with a lacquer solvent. The key to a good finish was a good large area airbrush and a wet coat. With the lacquer solvent the final result was a very hard coat(and very sandable) which conformed and stuck to the bare plastic very well. I'd say at least half my model kits don't use a primer because of this.

>>5593695
>>5593702
I've actually been building that starter set. Everything fits very well so far, but the paint provided is too green imo.

>>5593675
10/10

>>5593741
>>5593741
I dont think they'll mind if the paint is too green if it's their first model.

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>>5593741
Yeah, Airfix's new tooled kits are A+, while some might deem the panel lines a little too deep, they've got great fit and accurate dimensions. The deep panel lines aren't even that big of a deal to me, since I enjoy doing line washes but I'd say at this point Airfix is almost nipping at Hasegawa's heels.

>>5593925
Thanks!

Two 1/72 ATFs finished last week, Hobbyboss F-22A and Dragon YF-23.

>>5593675
Looks really good, the only thing I'd say tone down the bare metal, make it smaller and more spread out, you have to keep in mind the scale of the thing you're building, or else the battle damage looks out of proportion. Really nice though

>>5593675
>>5593676
try to texture your exhaust pipes.

Did you use spray can silver underneath an enamel black?

Star wars guy here. Just bought the bandai t47 and im super excited

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>>5594387
Thanks, this was my first experience with chipping on an aircraft so there's definitely a lot to learn from.

>>5594417
I'll try that on the spitfire I'm working on, although I don't know where to start. Maybe softening the plastic using liquid cement and lightly going at it with a blade? I'm a poor college student so Mr. Surfacer or those actual products are out of the question.

The silver is Tamiya aircraft spray bare metal masked using sponge-applied masking fluid under acrylic flat black.

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>>5594423
>Maybe softening the plastic using liquid cement and lightly going at it with a blade?

I meant paint texture. Exhaust pipes look good when they have a bit of depth to them, a wash is a pretty good start

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>>5594434
Oh gotcha. Here is an attempt, but thanks for the head's up!

>>5594459
much better than before anon

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>>5594459
Looks better. Here's a great tutorial on painting exhausts I found in this AK book I have:

Anyone got tips for lighting a model with leds?

>>5594747
>put led
>make light
don't fuck it up

>>5594334
Can you tell me what colors (FS numbers) you used on your F-22?

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i'm already regretting using so much putty.

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>>5595198
That looks like Mr. Surfacer or Tamiya putty? Try cleaning it up using some tamiya or mr. hobby lacquer thinner.

I switched over to using this as my putty a few months ago, never using anything else ever again. No sanding required, cleans up with water, even after it dries you just wet a cotton swab or ball and just clean up the excess.

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>>5595208
>Try cleaning it up using some tamiya or mr. hobby lacquer thinner.
yeah, but that's gonna eat the plastic.

>>5595243
No, Tamiya and Mr. Hobby won't eat the plastic at all, I've used it plenty of times to clean unwanted putty / paint off my models.

>>5595208
does it glue the parts together like apoxy? how brittle is it? shrinks?

has anyone used AK xtreme metallics? More specifically polished aluminum?

If so the shine as good as alclad? I know it's more durable which what I'm more so looking for.

>>5595254
Doesn't shrink, it doesn't appear brittle, very smooth. Not sure about gluing parts together, but probably not.

>>5595471
I've used it before, the polished aluminum too. It's pretty damn good honestly, even compared to alclad. Used Tamiya X-1 as a base for it too.

>>5595515
what do you think is better it or alclad?

I'm only asking cause its expensive to get, because the cheapest place I can get a bottle is 15 euros to ship

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>>5595087
leading edges of the flaps, ailerons, rudders, canopy frame, radome are FS 36375 light ghost gray, and the camouflage pattern is FS36251 and FS36176.

I did mix them around, darkened and lightened to get what I wanted though.

>>5595634
Where do you live and from where do you want to buy it? Try Poland

>>5595654
Canada, there's no model shops in my city which carry them.

the cheapest is from AKs online store, I can't even find cheaper price and shopping combinations on ebay

>>5595675
>Canada
yeah, I've heard it's a problem getting AK/AMMO stuff there

>>5595750
it's honestly hard to get alclad.

my usually model store carried them a few years ago but their provider stopped

The other place that gets it has a huge mark up(presumably for the same reason). it frickin whomps man

>>5595750
look into vallejo metall color or mig productions abteilung 502

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/metal-color/family/33

would it be okay to use spray on surface primer for a model I plan on Hand brushing? I'm using Tamiya surface primer and plan on using tamiya enamel.

>>5596721
yes and yes

>>5591019
Good works, Paul :^)

I'm trying to find some 1/144 cars, does anyone have a source?

Guys, do you know what's inside microsol? I can smell the vinegar acid in microset, but the former smells like soap.

>>5595826
vallejo metal colors are the best acrylic metal paints

but it stop around there, the dull and normal aluminium is fine but the polished colors really lack the shine and trueness that alclad can bring

>>5595750
Why not Mr Metal? Same level as alclad imho

>>5597742
I heared that Mr, Metal was very similar to alcad in it's properties.

I'm more looking for something that doesn't have the prep that alcad has. I heared that AK metals are a lot more like normal paints

>>5597272
Some really basic household chemical. I cant remember off the top of my head but its well known

>>5597068
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/50pcs-HO-Scale-Model-UnPainted-White-Farm-Animals-Cows-9-Poses-1-87/32584365361.html?spm=2114.30010308.3.22.gwgqHQ&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7,searchweb201602_3_301_10034_507_10032_508_10020_10017_10005_10006_10021_10022_401_10018_10019,searchweb201603_7&btsid=43cb5c8a-0bcd-4910-8450-16337533a0f9

>>5597988
that's a link for cows, I think you meant to link to cars.

>>5597804
Well, they kinda are. AK's are enamel based, and a tad bit thicker than Alclad, but it's still very thinned.

Alclad is extremely thin, and is a lacquer.

Which is more durable Alclad II or Xtreme metal?

>>5597988
>buying resin from AliExpress
>ever

>>5597272
A lot of these modern products we have to make modelling life easier, came about from the old diy tricks modellers came up with.

and as such there will often be cheap, do it yourself alternatives, but people buy these pre made products for the convenience of having something that works off the bat.

Anyone buy from thewarstore? How's their shipping? They look trustworthy, but I've never heard of them before and am always wary in this day and age. Mostly /tg/ stuff but they have a good paint selection.

>>5598126
no I've used alclad, I like it(don't even mind the smell) I think it's just too soft

>>5598465
I'll tell you when I get xtreme in the mail.

I want to find an alternative because alclad can be rubbed off

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Oh boy, it's huge.

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My WIP. This is my first model kit, not sure if i got the right choice

>>5600417
>>5600414
I don't know what you're using as a base for Alclad, but I've never had any issues with it being soft or rubbing off.

Alclad requires a gloss base to adhere well, either a gloss clear, or better a gloss black for a high shine finish. I use Tamiya X-1 Black thinned with lacquer thinner to do the job. Never had any of those issues working with it in that way, I've done plenty of masking over it and not once had any peeling issues.

>>5600770
>old Trumpeter
>nail clippers
>regular Tamiya cement

I hope you know what you're doing

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Post shitty builds

>>5600921
Looks like nigger ahit might as well fluah it down the toilet instead of putting ahit ona a flat top and calling it art

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>>5600921
>Messed up the decals

that ain't the only thing messed up

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>>5600921
occasionally I collect the odd poorly built model pic, just for the luls.

I imagined opening a museum of badly built models. things so fucked up theyre actually works of art.

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>>5601012

>>5600921

When was this posted? I just sold a Bulldog on ebay ...

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>>5601144
Today he posted his final picture, but I saw that he got it and started on it maybe 2 weeks ago.
I assumed he found one from hobby lobby or something, and had never done one before.

He forgot to paint the tow hooks at the rear evidently. To be fair, the M41 was my first model, but I think it turned out alright.

>>5601154

I'm glad it's not mine, although it will almost certainly have a similar fate.

I just don't want to see pictures of it.

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>>5601163
Couldn't find any pictures of the M41 I built about two years ago, but I was able to find some of the second tank I had made. I suppose it doesn't look as bad. I was 17 at the time and really didn't have any idea how to paint properly.

I'm still not that good now.

>>5601174
>17

Even the models I made at 15 look better than that

>>5601202
Like I said I didn't really know what I was doing at the time, and it was the second one I made.
No need to be super elitist about it.

>>5601206
How does a 17 year old not think to seek help or a guide or something?

No offence anon. My bad if you were 17 before the internet was a thing

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This was the first model I made as an adult, about 5 years ago. It was hand-painted with Tamiya Acrylics directly over the plastic... I don't think I even thinned the paint.

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>>5601397
Here is is now. About two years ago I stripped the paint from it and re-painted it completely.

>>5601397
>>5601398
The first iteration actually looks presentable. I like to keep my old and fucked up models, so I can tell how far I've improved.

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>>5600921
Worst thing I ever made.
The badness made me switch to 72nd scale.
1/35 Zvezda T-72A

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>>5601455

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>>5601458
I was asked if I painted it with fingers one time.

>>5601455
>>5601458
>>5601461
If you would use a single wash the tank would look 100 times better.

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>>5600921
>>5601425
I like to keep my old fucked up models too, here's Airfix's old 1/72 Typhoon, made when I was in 5th grade and brush painted with Tamiya enamels.

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>>5602045
but anyway, been working on Bandai's old 1/48 M4A3(76)W and dressing it up with an Eduard photoetch set.

First experience with photoetch and it's an actual learning experience

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>>5602052
More

Whats wrong with these shitty builds like>>5602045
>>5601455
>>5601174
its kinda okay in my opinion real tanks are sometimes handpainted but for>>5600921 thats really fucked up the hand marks , painting, 50.cal commander and infantry gave me cancer

>>5601397
>>5601455

Totally fine and somewhat looked like my first tanks too. Thats how a tank looks like if you have no access to Internet or other help/guides to explain weathering.

Are there any good flat clear coats that can be brushed on? Will it show brush marks? Ive never used a brush on clear coat

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http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/bfuucoxc1hbwrmpg382w.html
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/w57z7udascwzvindw3ov.html
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/ue08gnhk0sdi7ftnom8o.html

>>5602973
Those are very reasonable, at least at first glance.

>>5602973
>meng is trying their hand at an SD line
>marketing for kids

Not sure it's going to work honestly

>>5603012
Agreed. I can't see anyone but very young children wanting these. I mean they look neat, some adults will buy them.

>>5603021
actually, I think it's more suited to adults than children.

Children are really ill suited to modelling. It's like getting them to do crocheting or oil painting. Actually completing one will be a challenge because of their short attention span and any satisfaction they'll generate out of actually completing it will be drowned out by the fact they're really terrible at it.

>>5603039
I don't know, anon. As a kid I used to make airfix kits, although I did make them to play with them initially. But for a lot of kids it's easier for them to get instant gratification from an ipad app...

>>5600867
yes and no. it would probably be fine if I put a varnish on it. I just think that the natural luster of the metal finish is lost if you do so

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>>5603329
Not really, I always put varnishes on alclad, future followed by an alclad flat or matte coat and the metal effects still look fine.

Now, if you're going a very high shine chrome color or something, it might matter I guess, but for most aluminum shades it won't matter much.

>>5603345
oh yeah that's more or less what I meant. I'm more than happy if use a aluminum or white aluminium and put varnish over it.

I'm more or less looking for an alternative chrome or high polished aluminum which doesn't need a varnish.

Also I love that Ki-44 I've been meaning to get one. is that the Hasegawa?

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>>5603410
Yes, Hasegawa 1/32 scale. Excellent kit by the way, as are most of Hasegawa's newer tooled 1/32 kits. They can definitely compete with Tamiya and other 1/32 kit makers.

I also got their N1K2-J kit, as well as a Ki-84 in my backlog, both partially built but not complete.

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Made myself a light box today out of some poster board and transparent wrapping paper. I'm using incandesent bulbs for now, but I'm going to get some much brighter, daylight LEDs soon to take better pictures. Tested it out and the pictures are very dark until I mess with the settings and adjust them.

Only reason this picture even came out looking ok was because I used flash.

>>5603419
I love Hasegawa kits, I'm pretty sure I like my haseawa A6m 32 over my Tamiya A6m 22

>>5603821
Eh. I prefer your workbench photos

I was about to post my models, but after seeing what is called shitty here, I'd rather not.

Seriously, the Tiger and the T-72 look perfectly fine to me.

>>5604368
The Yellow Tiger which was hand painted looked pretty good considering. The T-72(even though lacks a an even paint job) really just needs some highlights and a wash to make it look fine.

Go post your kits though, no one here is particularly mean, if anything we'll just give you tips for your next build

>>5603821
how about getting a stand and lengthening the exposure times?

The paintjob is salvagable but the T-72 is the tamiya kit which is irredeemable inaccurate garbage so don't bother trying to fix it

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>>5603000
>>5603012
>>5603021
>>5603039
>>5603040
http://www.themodellingnews.com/2016/03/happy-easter-with-gift-of-easter-egg.html

With a 3D printer could I potentially make parts and accessories for my vehicles?

>>5604636
qualitys shit, get it professionally done,
also stereolithography is superior for detail.

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>>5604639
That's what I'm concerned about, the quality but if it could print something close to the detail on these guys I'm definitely down for it.

scale model 3d printing revolution when

>>5604651
That's a 3d render, the company has no actual printed models on their website because the results are poor.

the smooth models you see from that kind of printer, are run through a chemical bath that melts/smoothes the layers to give it a smooth appearance.

the whole thing ends up being a heck of a lot more expensive than getting the odd print done online.

id wait a little longer for SLA systems to become common place, you`ll only be disappointed otherwise.

http://www.wired.com/2012/07/3-d-printers-that-dont-suck/

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>>5604429
I'll try to, I use a DSLR (Nikon D3300) but I'm admittedly extremely new to photography. I did get some daylight LED bulbs to at least make the yellow colors go away.

>>5604366
I kinda to do as well honestly, but it's a pain in the ass to get the lighting for those photos correct as well. I need to get a tripod and take longer exposure pictures.

>>5604651
>>5604654
>>5604691
Check out this guys. First true 3D printed kit. Found this a few months ago, it's extremely expensive though for such a tiny ass tank.

http://www.shapeways.com/shops/ets35

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My WIP BT-7. Not really a plastic kit, but i hope you guys can help me here.
I want to add some texture paint to make the tracks muddy. (The tracks actually are one piece made from metal and they look terrible in places because of the mold so i want to cover that a little).

I've never used that stuff before, so if i seal the paint first with matte varnish, will the texture paint still stick to the tank?
I'm using vallejo texture paint if that matters

>>5604768
Colouring can easily be fixed in post. Have you tried to defuse your lighting or are you just having them shine directly onto your subject?

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>>5604893
I build a light box that diffuses light. Built one according to a guide I found on youtube that is very simple, just using some poster board and tissue paper. The main issue though is the only lightbulbs I had to use right now are a soft-white LED and two incandescent 60W, which I'm replacing with daylight 100W equivalent LED lightbulbs. Should fix most of the issues I'm having since they're not yellow and are much brighter bulbs.

I've messed with the exposure time settings with my camera though and it definitely improves the overall quality of the picture.

>>5604932
with the 152, I think it needs a slightly higher aperture setting to bring the back into focus.

Also, I realised the P-51 had a hard shadow because of the flash, not the light box. My bad

>>5604287
Tamiya released a brand new 1/48 A6M5 Zero kit a few years ago. I got it in my backlog and it's pretty damn well detailed for a 1/48 kit.

I also got their 1/32 scale one in my backlog too, but I just never got around to working on it.

Hasegawa is also coming out with a new tooled 1/32 A6M5 this year I think.

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Lighting outside was pretty on point today. I'll post a few of my pics. What do you think?

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It really looks like I used a filter in some of these photos

>>5605142
paint the rubber of the roadwheels!

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Finished this faggot a week ago, however my phone incredibly reluctant to transfer files.
I only managed to transfer one picture (and a bad one at that).
Gonna try to take more with better light available.

>>5605150
Shit... I forgot to repaint them, when I was doing the camouflage after I put the wheels on I must've accidentally gone over it with my camouflage colors.

>>5605140
>>5605142
>Unrealistic overdone weathering
>wheels not painted
>side skirts are supposed to pivot
>assembly seems rushed

>>5605146
Don't take pictures from behind and object in direct sunlight. That defeats the whole purpose of shooting in natural light.

>>5604378
Thanks for the encouragement, I'll probably post them in the next thread.

NEW THREAD

>>5605455
>>5605455
>>5605455