Scale Plastic Models Thread: Carpet Monster Edition

Well, how do I avoid the carpet monster? I seem to lose so many small beige-coloured parts to it.
I tried modelling over a tray but it made no difference, pieces still ping off into the nether.
Right now I wait until the kitchen is free and make kits in there... The grey tiled floor makes it easier to find parts.

How to prime vinyl, specifically hollow 1/35 AFV tyres? What primer to use?

>>5294554
not oil based paints
probably not enamels either

>>5294555
Polyurethane primer like Vallejo? What about AK or AMMO primer?

>>5294554
Vinyl is a bitch to paint which is why many people hate vinyl tracks and tires and choose to replace them.

>>5294445
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/t/22737.aspx

>>5294561
No idea. I use Halfords primer which isn't even intended for models.

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I posted these a few threads ago, but I'm still not sure whether to strip them or not.

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>>5294657
the photos are shit, but hey ho.

>>5294657
They look decent, you want to practice on them?

>>5294802
I don't like them.

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>>5294807
I think the faces are iffy and uniforms look bad.

>>5294812
>>5294658
>>5294657
Your paint looks really thick and the miniatures are ugly. (second isn't your fault though)

>>5294813
I thin paints now. But yeah, it's my fault for painting them under a shitty lamp.
The figures are quite nice, but my painting was shite

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Finished the upper brown paint color. I did chipping using maskol, just need to wait for the paint to completely dry for a few hours before I remove it all, started a little pre-maturely and it was pulling away too much paint.

I pre-shaded first with flat black, then put on a base color of a 1:1 mixture of XF-10 and XF-59 to make a tan-brown color. Then I very lightly post-shaded a 1:2 mixture of XF-10 and XF-60 to fade the original color a little bit. I also highlighted the flaps with a lighter variant of the base color by adding more XF-59 since the flaps were made from covered fabric.

Once I get the bottom done I'll gloss coat it with future. I only have two decals to add to it since I airbrushed the stenciling. I'll do a medium-grey wash over the entire model, then I'll seal everything up with a flat coat. Not going to do any other extensive weathering, though I'm thinking about doing some salt-fading at the very end.

>>5294818
Do you know techniques like edge highlighting?

>>5295022
I do now. These were painted about a month ago.

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Done with the paintwork completely, what do you guys think? I think it turned out pretty well, I might add some more chipping using a sponge and some aluminum paint in addition to the stuff already present though. I tried to only place it in areas that would have been worn from maintenance and entering / exiting the cockpits.

Now all I have to do is paint a gloss coat over everything and do weathering.

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>>5295430
Slightly better angle here. The kit is pretty old (~1996) but it is still alright I guess, one of the worse fits I've had building a Tamiya kit.

>>5294989
The brown looks too dark and the props should be a different shade of brown.

>>5295476
what colour photographs are you referencing?
I just had a google, didn't really see any.
just want to compare his build.

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>>5295530
Not him, but he was right on the propeller color, I did use the wrong color by mistake, but as for the main base color I'm leaving it as is. I used the color recommendation Tamiya gives, and their colors are always a little off honestly, but still I'm not too concerned about getting the exact shade of color correct.

Here's the build I've been using as sort of a reference for my own.

http://www.hyperscale.com/2015/galleries/shitei48vs_1.htm

>>5295541
>You know what, fine buddy, I'm not going to post in these shitty threads anymore.
>I'm totally leaving now guise.
>posts again

>>5295541
I wouldn't worry too much about the colors. I've seen a platoon of Abrams that's painted in NATO camo and they all look a bit different from each other.

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>>5295551

Time to fuck off, timmy. He is the only guy which posts quality content and I follow his builds as sometimes he is the only one who keeps the thread alive.

Why don't you grab your 3 dollar testors brush set and shove it up your cheap putty blasted asshole?

>>5295833
Him and the tripfag are the only ones that post content.

>>5295833
>I'm the only guy which posts quality content and I follow my builds as sometimes I'm the only one who keeps the thread alive.
FTFY
So much for leaving...

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Progress on the Albatros. Today the fuselage should be done, finish adding the rib tapes to the tail planes, and do the elevator rigging.

No idea why the neindorf wood paneling was like such, it makes no sense to me, but whatever.

>>5295941
>mixing paint and primer
U wot m8

With acrylic, is a ratio of 1:1 paint/primer a good amount?

>>5295946
>>5295947
fuck, I'm a mess tonight. I meant thinner

>>5295950
Thin to the consistency of milk ffs

>>5295950

KEK. Yeah, 1:1 works great with Tamiya and Model Master Acrylics.

>>5295953
>>5295954
Thanks guys.

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>>5295927

Finished one of the turnbuckles for the elevator controls, 3 to go for the tail, and 32 left for the wings.

anyone had experience with single link tracks?

>>5296742
if you're talking about individual track pieces, then yes.

I prefer them over all other forms

>>5296773
Yeah, I hate link and length. I've never been able to get them good.

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Just got this from a friend. Ive never heard of this brand and I want to know more about this model. If you guys can that be awesome. Im a relatively experienced builder and this shouldn't be an difficult build.

>>5297436
someone was developing a PE for it, it seems.

http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=7495&start=80

>>5297436
Use google you lazy fuck

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So... anyone wanna help me out? When I was spraying the texture was really droopy. I suppose I put in too much thinner?

Also, sorry for the quality, DSLR wasn't in arm's reach.

>>5297710
Jesus christ, learn to paint.

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>>5297745
That's what I'm doing buddy. This is my first kit that I'm painting.

>>5297710
If you're having thinner issues, as in your ratio is always too thin or too thick, then thin it to the "too thin" side and do a few passes of mist coating.

That will allow a very light layer of paint which should help the following, heavier coats to adhere better. It's not just about thinning, but how you're applying paint.

>>5297531
>>5297745
Boy, good thing you guys split off from the Gundam modeling thread.

>>5297710
Your paint is way too thin. If you are airbrushing, spray some primer on first. Your paint should be the consistency of milk.

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>>5297851
>>5297758
I'll give it another shot tomorrow. Thanks guys.

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IT'S TIME

http://vvsmodelling.com/2015/11/23/148-amk-mig-31bmbsm-foxhound/

>>5298082
Not really a plane builder myself. I have dabbled in 1/72 WW2 fighters, though.

>>5298082
Noice but is anyone gonna do Mig-25 and Mig-31 in 1/72? Seriously, they're badly needed.

>>5298082
>Example of great ingeneering

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>>5298155

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Here's my Merkava, with initial painting and post shading done.

Will do weathering, detail painting and wheels later.

>>5298473
Honest question; what is the advantage of painting your tracks and wheels while on the model like that as opposed to separately? Whenever I do armor, I always leave the tracks and wheels off and paint them individually, and I don't put anything on the model until its fully painted / weathered.

If I were to assemble that kit, I would have left the side-skirts off until finished painting and just glue them on with CA glue. It just seems like doing it that way is going to make painting the tracks and wheels a major pain in the ass. That said, it looks alright, what model is this? Academy, Meng?

>>5298497
>what is the advantage of painting your tracks and wheels while on the model like that as opposed to separately?

Less parts to keep tabs on and potentially lose (I build multiple kits at once and it's easy to lose parts)

Stronger glue bond, and easier for me to not worry about glue mistakes over the paint.

It's a bit more difficult to paint, but I'm used to doing it this way now.

>what model is this? Academy, Meng?

It's Meng, their first Merkava. I like it a lot, despite its few shortcomings.

>building a kike tank
>muh 6 gorillion

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>>5298551

>>5298551
I'm also building an Allah Snackbar tank :^)

They could fight over my dusty shelf space.

>>5298563
>not being pro-Israel means you're a muslim terrorist

I can't decide what to build. Too many choices and I need aftermarket for the plans I have for many of them.

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>>5298563
>Allah Snackbar tank
You mean donkey-mounted RPG?

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Finished with detail painting, just gonna apply the decals and weather it some more.

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I also decided to weather this KT I was working on.

this thread is so much nicer without the cancerous redditfag and tripfag.

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>>5300802

Please tell me that zimmerit is aftermarket. ALSO, PANZER IV WHEN.

>>5301007
But there's still cancerous you shitposting.

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>>5301007
here's a (You)

>>5301109
>Please tell me that zimmerit is aftermarket.
Nah, it's one of those Dragon kits which has the molded-on zimmerit.

>ALSO, PANZER IV WHEN.
wut?

dead thread

>>5304477
That's what happens when you act like elitist, shit-eating faggots and chase everyone away.

>>5301007
>>5304477
>>5304504
Obvious samefag

>inb4 shooped screen cap

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>>5304477
tfw can't work up motivation to work on model. Maybe tomorrow.

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Does anybody want this? I got it some time ago for five dollars at a swap meet, but then soon realized that the chassis is all wrong with the piece that are provided.

Look pretty old though.

>>5304644
I doubt anyone wants an Italeri kit from the 60s. Just toss it or use it as a test bed.

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>>5304588
Haven't worked on anything in a while. Where did others go? 1/32 plane fag, Staghound fag, battleship fag?

>>5304644
>>5304658
What's wrong with the kit? What are the historical ramifications with that brand. Just curious.

>>5304980
it's a shitty fucking kit from the 60s. from the fucking 60s. are you retarded?

>>5304976
You fags scared them all away. 1/32 guy/battleship left for reddit, staghound guy just left.

>>5304980
It's the worst Hetzer kit in 1/35 scale.

>>5304644
I could use it for kitbashing some ork vehicles if you are giving it away

>>5304996
God damn shitposters. These threads were starting to pick up pace and now they're dying. During tge course of the year I've seen a lot of works here by a lot of people but very few were finished and 1/32 planefag was the main contributor. Also this ww2 GB isn't doing to well. I want to finish Italeri's Hs129 first but I'm either busy or doing other things.

>>5305018
It was probably the gundamfags that shitposted the thread to death.

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>>5305064

If anyone is interested in getting an 1/48 Tamiya Sdkfz 251 you can get it on Amazon for 16€ and free shipping (from Japan) at the moment.
Usual price is between 20 and 25€ for that kit.
http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0026IBBTI?keywords=Tamiya%201%2F48&qid=1448622655&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

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>>5300802
Great looking Tiger.
Is it still WIP?

You seemed to have forgotten to paint the MG barrel.
I also marked the spot between the schurzen area where usually another panel of schurzen should be. There shouldn't be camo paint on the tank since the schurzen panel would have blocked that area off when the tank was painted .

>>5304644
Put it on ebay or offer it in one of the bigger scale modell forums.
Those old kits might be bad (from a builders point of view), but they sure are rare and there are lots of collectors out there who might pay more than $5 for it.

Just sayin

>>5305269
not him but ive seen a couple of tank pics with that panel missing, why is it always that one?

>>5305387
>why is it always that one?

Because people apparently think it looks best if the middle piece is missing.

>>5305395
I meant real ones. But don't let me get in the way of your snarky replies.

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The lower and upper hull of my Panther D are finished. Also the gun barrel is lathed. Tomorow I will finish the turret and add the surface primer.

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>>5305429
The details on the hull are pretty neat on the new Panther model.

>>5305432
what u use to take pictures?

>>5305437
My smartphone Note 3

>>5305462
these new phone pics are better than my Nikon d90. cant afford a macro lens atm.

>>5305429
Is that the newer tamiya one? Considering getting that or one of the dragon panthers.

>>5305671
Yes its the new 2015 kit

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>>5304976
1/72 B-17F 1/48 p-51 here. Not much work going on. I added the oil grain to my wood. The doors look like crap since I couldn't get the paint off (enamel). Plan on spraying the aluminium on the P-51 next weekend.

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>>5305826
>adding oil to your wood

>>5305671
You should check the kits before buying.
Tamiya one comes without single link tracks (vinyl ones instead) but you can buy several upgrades for the kit.
Dragon are more expensive, but they already have almost everything included in the main kit.

What's the verdict on Trumpeter/HobbyBoss kits?

>>5306948
I have an hobby boss T-34 in 1:48. very cheap and crazy details as well as foto etched parts.

>>5306955
My father made on of those, only thing I dislike about it is the link-and-length tracks.

>>5305826
remove the enamel using enamel thinners?

>>5306948
Good kits

>>5307039
I have a Komintern artillery tractor and that hungarian paperpanzer coming in the post.

>>5307041
>hungarian paperpanzer
Wat

>>5306948
Trumpeter kits are horrribly overrated and overpriced. They are often underdetailed compared to Dragon or Tamiya and contain major accuracy errors.

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>>5307042
the 44M TAS
>>5307043
I paid about £20 for both of them on Ebay. They both have indie links which I like.

>>5307044
just to clarify that is £20 each

I think the TAS was £19.99 and the tractor £16.99

>>5307044
>indie
>£
>shiftfag
Go post on Britmodeller or IntScaleModeller. They cater to your kind.

>>5307043
Are you literally retarded?
Meng, Tamiya, Takom.... kits are overpriced. Trumpeter's one of the only few companies whose kits are NOT overpriced.

>>5307046
your shitposting is the reason these threads are dying

>>5307057
>shiftfag shitposts again

>>5307046
hurr durr people from other countries don't exist

>>5307051
>responds to legit critism by calling the poster "literally retarded"
And this is why we've already lost our 3 biggest contributors

>>5307059
what's the matter, no-one replying to your shitty scale model thread :(

all this samefagging is getting annoying

>>5307061
>legit criticism
>Trumpeter kits are underdetailed compared to Tamiya
Tamiya kits are overpriced and underdetailed. They don't even have seperate grab handles like Takom or Meng kits

>>5307061
you can go join them on leddit

>>5307067
Because they are aimed more towards beginners.

>>5307057
I have to agree, it seems to be just this one person who does nothing but shitpost and call people shiftfag.

>>5307088
But they sure don't price them like they're aimed at beginners.

>>5307097
it's a fact newbies to the hobby will pay stupid prices for crap kits, because they have no idea of what prices to expect

>>5307097

Afaik old(er) 1/35 Tamiya tank kits are very cheap. Due to their age they lack detail, but are very beginner friendly. Their 1/48 military range (also nice beginner builds) is around 15-25€/kit, which is also very reasonable.
Since i don't build planes i have no idea about their prices or the quality of tamiya planes, but i saw a Japanese Zero fighter in 1/48 for 11€ a while ago. Almost bought it, but then again, i have no idea how its price or quality is compared to other manufacturers.

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I coated everything with a white primer.

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>>5307176

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>>5307178
But the skirts lacking some details.

>>5307194
I would beat it up a bit, those were thin metal

>>5306948
Older trumpeter kits sucks butt, especially their armor. Their newer Soviet-era armor are awesome though. Anyone who says otherwise has never built one.

Hobby boss is a hit or miss. Their Super Pershing and ISU-152s are good, but their Leopard series are not as good.

>>5307304
Trumpeter are the ones who have shit-tier photos of models on the boxes of their 72nd series, right?

That said their 35th scale models are pretty nice.

>>5307196
Any actual photos of shurtzen "beaten up a little?"

>>5307307
nah but it looks cool

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>>5307309
>but it looks cool

Mein negger.

>>5307325
While accuracy is something to strive for, if something looks hecka neat don't worry about being 100% accurate

>>5307334
I was going to reply with a comment about Shurzen may be thin sheets of metal, but any force that would bent that metal would only rip the shurzen off its hooks and fall away, since they're not bolted on.

But you're right, a (slightly) bent shurtzen does give a model a little more character, even if its a tad unrealistic.

>>5307196
>>5307347
>>5307334
Thanks. I think it will cut the in single pieces to give it a more floppy look.

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>>5307194
remove some of them or left few without camo(plain dunkelgelb or that rusty red primer if you are doing late war)

If anyone has any ideas how to download this as a .pdf from google play books, I'll upload and share it with you guys.
I cannot figure out how to do it though, it's DRM protected and unlike other books I've bought through google play, it won't even let me download it as a .pdf to transfer to other devices, I can only view it through the app or on a browser. Still, beats paying the $80 that a physical copy costs (I only paid $14 on google play).
>>5307093
It is, I don't know who this faggot is, but I really wish the mods would just perma-ban him.

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>>5307554
forgot my image

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I need some advice on painting.
Im going to do my first ever paint job on plastic figures. And I have to admit that Im scared of fucking it up big time.

So what brush and paint is best for plastic figures for small details? All other advice on painting is very welcome.

>>5307680

I don't think you're going to get a warm welcome here, so I'll just be the one to help you. Normally scale-model threads are for more traditional models and the place you'd be better in is the Gunpla thread. That's neither here nor there however.

To paint small details, any brush is fine, small obviously, I would recommend sable over synthetic. You can get them at Michael's or a hobby store. If money is no factor, Games Workshops stuff is the ideal stuff. As far as painting your model, stick with acrylic. The reason you do this is because the thinner material is just alcohol, so you do not risk making your plastic brittle. Fear nor, if you mess up, you can removed it with warm water and dish soap or a q-tip with a little thinner. You'll be able to try over and over in this way should it not turn out the way you like. With paints, buy something thin, like Tamiya, and buy either alcohol or branded thinner, mix it to a milk-like consistency. In order to get a smooth, vibrant finish, you'll want to apply in coats. 2 coats will do but the more you do the better the color will be, just thin the paint out accordingly. When you're finished, use a clear acrylic (matte or gloss) to help keep the paint from chipping in the future.

It's nothing to worry about, you can't break anything with Acrylic. Have fun and don't get discouraged.

Yo. Do you think it's possible to make my own filters? I have enamel paints and thinner, but I don't want to fuck my model up. I want to buy some ready-mixed ones but they're hecka overpriced.

>>5307680
I would say a very fine brush like 5/0. For the paint you should use acrylic paint because they are very easy to thin and safe for your polymers figures. Just take some old stuff or junk were you test what you trying to achive.

>>5307726
Thanks, man. Very detailed.


Ye, Im not a regular on /toy/ so this thread seemed like the go to for paint jobs at first glance.

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>>5305826

I think the wooden floor needs another go. What technique are you using to make the woodgrain?

>>5307772
I did a thin gloss coat over everything then I brushed on some burnt sienna oil paint pretty thinly.

>>5307772
>>5307893
I like yours and will probably do another clear yellow coat over it all once I am done. The b-17 is low on my list right now. I want to finish up the P-51 and get started on the P-38 before too long otherwise I wont finish anywhere near the time for the group build.

>>5308306

What I would recommend is adding burnt sienna without thinning it at all, just add a dab of linseed oil to help you move it around.

You then want to use a piece of sponge or stiff bristle brush or fan brush to move the grain around.

I know it's 1/72nd, but it'll help with your P-51 if you decide to leave the cockpit floor without the black anti skid material :)

>>5307734
anyone?

>>5307734
I believe so. I don't put filters on my models. Iirc it's about 90% thinner to 10% paint for a filter.

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>tfw you can make wave crests by mashing toilet paper with white glue
that's why I love this hobby

>>5309688
I saw a blog post about someone building a viking longboat complete with stormy sea base. Want me to link it?

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I finally finished the Aston Martin DBR9. It only took me 5-6 months or so!

Obviously, a lot of that was just procrastinating, sitting there looking at it and only doing like tiny little bits at a time. I did really enjoy it though and I didn't want to rush any part of it. But I think if you saw how little I did in each little session and how slow I went you would want to punch me in the face.

It is the first pure model like this that I've done and it's far from perfect. I only used the stuff that came with the starter kit apart from a few little obvious extras like tooth picks, cotton buds, craft knife and tweezers etc. But essentially it's all hand painted with the water based acrylics and the size 0 and 4 paint brushes that came with the kit. While reading these threads throughout the build I learned a lot more advanced techniques and ways of improving each little bit I was doing but they would all have involved me buying extra stuff and investing more and more into the hobby and I didn't want to do that just yet. I just wanted to stick with the basic set and see what I could do.

If I did do another kit though the first thing I would invest in is some proper modelers masking and fine line tape. Man, that would have saved me some grief. I am also thinking of getting some of that decal fix as I do still have some issues with a couple of loose decals.

Overall I'm happy with it though and like I said, I really did enjoy making it all.

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I do also have a few extra questions to ask about how to maybe do some extra finishing work. I will probably leave it as it is though, just interested in what else you might do at this point. I don't mean weathering particularly, just more thinking in terms of protection.

I actually did look at someone elses build that they had gone through all the different steps and the things that he did while building it and realised how much extra you really can put into these things. Some of the tips I followed, some I left as I would have had to get more tools and materials to achieve it. It's almost as if the model just provides the framework for you to really go to work on it and make it your own. It was very insightful. Reading these threads and all the different methods and techniques and skills and tasks that go into making these sorts of things appeal to me a lot and I guess to everyone that does this sort of stuff. It was interesting.

>>5307734

Of course, you can use oil paints to do them, just select the colors that will complement the main scheme of your model and add little drops of oil paint with a fine brush all around the model, then blend it it with a flat brush and odorless turpentine, of course, after sealing the model with Future or another acrylic gloss cote and allowing it to cure.

>>5310936
>>5310944
Looks really neat, considering you were using the paints that came with the kit.
Don't buy decalfix, it's not really that good.

>>5310955
Well, that's a good technique, but not really filtering. Look up 'oil fading', that's what you mean.
I did some kind of filter on my Tiger II, although it can't really be seen on photos. I mixed a dab of oil paint with lotsa thinner and applied it with a flat brush. I did so only on the winter camo, alternating between sienna and dark blue filter, to create a 'cold' and partly 'dirty' feel, so that the snow camo isn't monotone.

>>5311152

Huh, weird, I guess it changes between aircraft and armor or we use it differently. To us, the oil dot technique is a filtering technique.

I stand corrected if it's not the case.

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I have a question guys, hope you can help me out!

Just used some clear gloss spray on the windshield etc of an aoshima FC3S kit, but the finish wasn't quite as good since the spray is quite old, haven't been used in awhile. Any ideas what I can use to wipe it off without ruining/melting the plastic? It's just a standard plastic kit not resin or anything, thanks in advance!

pic related

>>5311578
IPA ? if its acrylic spray it will defiantly take it off.

>>5311582
It is an acrylic spray, I was reading the guide in OP and it recommended a window cleaner or some other ammonia solution but it was for a varnish finish which I guess is too strong for this...I shall try the IPA then! There is no specific type to use right?

>>5311589
I don't think there is different types is there?
only percentage of strength but that wont matter.

>>5311621
okay! thanks a lot man

>>5311589

Windex or pledge window cleaner has the necessary ammonia to strip acrylic finishes.

>>5311578
If it's from a spray can, it will be an enamel or a lacquer, not an acrylic. Enamel can be stripped using mineral spirits, oven cleaner, purple power, etc. Lacquer will be much harder to strip.

>>5311578
>>5311935
If it's frosted, pick up some micromesh polishing cloths and Novus polish. Much easier than stripping.

>>5311578
If acrylic: Ammonia based Windex. Will take it off without any adverse effects on the plastic

If enamel or lacquer: GG
(both solvent types will also dissolve plastic, ruining your clear piece forever)

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>>5294431

Just started a new model I recently bought - Trumpeter's BMP-2.

I still consider myself a novice, and have encountered for the first time photo-etched parts...after 5 minutes I can say with certainty that I hate them.

Any tips/tricks? What do you guys use to cut tiny little PE pieces off of their sprues? Is there any way to make gluing them less of a bitch?

I will update my progress with pics as I go - feel free to call me shit or give helpful advice.

>>5312102
use a sharp bladed knife or specialised thin blade nippers to cut them off.
use a cutting board
thin, penetrating super glue works if you pre-position the parts and flow it into the gaps. Thick, slow acting super glue also works to help with post placement positioning. The stuff in the middle is just messy.

you can also solder large photo etch pieces together.

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>>5312102
Get a side cutter designed for electronics.
Yours look like you could beat someone to death with it.

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so guys, what's the best king tiger in 1/72? dragon?

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Anyone get these 1/12 Hasegawa kits? What's this circle thing supposed to be? A candle?

>>5312577
There's 4 circle things.

wow. remember I posted the badger stynylrez primer that was too thick and kept clogging my airbrush?

Well I sent it back, got a reply saying they didn't find a problem with it, and they refunded me.
So I go to buy an airbrush, they cancel my order, delete my account and said they don't want to deal with me again.

''Hi

Due to past experience and cost incurred to ourselves,

We no longer wish to deal with you,

Without predigest We have sent a full Refund via Pay Pal for your present Order and will be removing your account.

Best Regards

Steve
Barwell Bodyworks

I believe they meant to say prejudice

>>5312599
Dickheads.

>>5312599
WOW

Way to run a business
>that dude charged us 50 bucks in shipping fees
>lets not sell him anything
>that'll teach him

>>5312584
The one next to the menu holder. There are two glasses, and the one with the angled mouth is probably a candle, but what's the donut looking one supposed to be?

>>5312599
was this the first time you'd sent something back?
>>5312657
What were they thinking? 50 dollars isn't that much, they could have made that by selling him an airbrush.

On a lighter note, Airfix have really good customer service, in my experience. They have always sent any spares I need.

>>5312657
I paid the return shipping, all they did was refund me a tenner for the bottle of primer.

>>5312688
yes, I was very courteous in the emails because obviously I wanted to buy an airbrush.

>>5312706
>yes, I was very courteous in the emails because obviously I wanted to buy an airbrush.
what kind of fucker gloats he got a refund anyway?

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>Working on the Airfix Fw190 F-8
>Was going to get it ready for painting the camo
>But can't because GF wants to have sex

Fuck this gay earth

>>5312824
wow what a hard life you have

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>>5312824

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>>5312877
Just finishing a few more inf squads and then their primed and painted - have some scenery to show yall inthe coming months

>>5312102
Xuron Photo Etch scissors and a Tamiya diamond file.
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-Professional-Photo-Scissor-XUR9180ET/dp/B003XXU3GM

>>5312706
Where did you order/not order? Its probably unlikely but i don't want to order there by mistake.

I'm sure there are plenty of onlineshops that will take your money and sell you an airbrush.

>>5312887
>a Tamiya diamond file.

A file that costs 5 times the money a non-tamiya diamond file would cost?

>>5312893
It doesn't cost 5 times more and it is worth every penny when working with photo etch.
http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74066-Diamond-Photo-Etched/dp/B000E7ONQQ

>>5312599
I told you it's crap.

>>5312877
>>5312882
scale? brand? are they for wargaming?

>>5312882
So what are you doing with all these?

>>5312888
barbell bodyworks, they run
http://www.badger-airbrush.co.uk/
only an issue if youre in the uk.
shitter tho cos they do have the best prices.

>>5312899
Whats crap anon, everything badger? or that specific primer you know is crap from your own experience?

>>5312972
specifically the Kublewagen.

>>5312979
Primary is to complete the scenery ive started and lay them out in a diorama /company of heroes-esk fassion with a scene by scenetimeline of normandy airdrops battle for britaintank battles and easter eggs of command and high offocers with hitler goong from west to east and germansys fall agains russia so its goong to be a god like diorama somethi gbeen working on for a longtime - second use is im a huge 40k guy so flames of war because i was toldyou can just grab a codez and most if not all units convert over and areapproliate scale size
Thats just one shelf of just the wermacht i have britts andstartedmy russias

>>5312972
>>5312985
All 1/35 not intended for war gaming but canbe used for such i wastold and its tamiya

>>5313056
why does the driver have no legs?

>>5312599
Something tells me there's more to this story that you let on.
>Due to past experience

So how many times did you whine and return stuff because you're too much of a child to work out shit on your own?

>>5313068
For somereaso the schrimwagon driver came with nomethat kit is nearly 40 years old

>>5313068
>>5313113
I did buy a recon kit that is pictured inthe same vehicle so im planning on swapping them out

>>5313097
I would totally be of the same viewpoint when getting only one side of a story,
but yea that's all I bought from them.

We only exchanged 8 emails, I just wanted to know if it was error on my part or faulty product.
He said ''we have never had a complaint''
I asked for contact details and offered to pay to send it to them.
He said he couldn't find a problem
I didn't even ask for a refund, but wasn't going to not accept it since I was without product.
Last message was the refund email.

That brief contact was the only past experience I've ever had with them.

Do they blacklist everyone who has a problem with something they sell?

>>5312684
The brown one is a buzzer and the angled one is a receipt holder. Both are things commonly seen in casual Japanese restaurants.

I'm not sure if you guys could help, but whatever. I wanted to try and kitbash some space ship models together for a short film or something. Are there any good tutorials or specific types of models I should use?

>>5313182
Ah, thanks. I might have guessed buzzer eventually, but I never would have guessed the other one was a receipt holder. I would have sworn it was a candle. One day I'll visit Japan and find things like that out first hand.

>>5312570
bump?

>>5312599
Good work. Have fun getting Badger airbrush parts in Europe now.

>>5312570
>>5314264
Not to be a dick, but you can find out yourself with a click of a button. Try Scalemates.
Type 1/72 King Tiger into your browser.

>>5314592
i want more of a people experience than frames photos.

>>5314654
Look up reviews.

>>5314654
Fuck off you lazy piece of shit. Always expecting others to do the work for you.

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>>5314654
Dont know about dragon, but I have unfinished Revell King Tiger waiting in a box for me to get motivated, I liked the quality and used this article when searching about differences.
http://www.onthewaymodels.com/articles/KingTigerCompare.htm

>>5314667
Stop shitposting pls

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>>5314667
Seriously. Even after people said to use Google and look up the kit on Scalemates that guy still bitches. Lazy piece of shit, indeed.

>>5314654
Scalemates has reviews you lazy fuck.

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Recently finished Ace BMP-1, now working with ACE BMD-2 in 1/72. Casted a copy of the S-Model's turret, since it's so much better. Will probably have to clone some other parts, the quality of those older Ace kits is pretty shit

>>5315280
Aww, I love Soviet APCs. I hope this looks as good as the one you recently finished.

>>5312895
It isn`t anything other than i could get here for example:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-style-multifunction-1SET-diamond-Files-for-Glass-LX0002/2024350303.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_10

Buying tools from hobby companies is always wasted money since its nothing else than standard tools with fance brand logo on them.

>>5313042
Just so you know: Flames of war is intended to be played with 1/100 vehicles and its battalion based, so you will need tons of vehicles and soldiers and, if you really want to use 1/35, you will need a really huuuuge table. (Not to mention that you won't find anyone to play against, because nobody plays FoW in 1/35.)

You could look into Bolt Action though, that is a platoon based game (intended to be played with miniatures around 1/48, so again: good luck finding one playing it in 1/35), but you won't need as much units on the table so it might work a little bit better in 1/35.

>>5314268
Its not like you can't buy them in any bigger scale modelling/hobby onlineshop?

>>5314654

because why not:

Italeri 1/72 king tiger (i had the kit, but sold it again) is decent quality for its age, but it looked like a really old molding tool so i sold it.

Revell Tiger 2 is decent
Revell Tiger 2 with Porsche turret is a new kit and therefore better quality than the old one BUT in RL all Porsche turret Tiger 2s had Zimmerit. That kit has no Zimmerit so you need to do it yourself. But maybe you dont care about such things, then its ok

Dragon 1/72 is to expensive for my taste. Quality is Dragon though.

>>5314757
>reading through that link
>The new King Tiger from Revell AG. is almost everything we would expect from one of today's finest kit manufacturers.
>Revell
>one of today's finest kit manufacturers

Topkek

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>>5316092
too bad there are only two companies currently making modern soviet and russian stuff in 1/72: ACE and S-Model. I hope either for Toxso or Zvezda to fill the gap asap. Ace has improved the quality of the kits significantly by using 3D designed and printed masters, just look at their new BTR series - pic very related. I hope that some day they decide to reissue some of the older kits like MT-LB/BMP/BMD

>>5316296
There's a bounty of vehicles in 1/35 scale. You should consider them.

>>5316461
If he already has comitted to 1/72 then he probably won't change his scale.

>>5316146
I actually host 40k apoc. games out of my basement i was a big fan of HO odel trains as a kid and have a ton of space set aside for my new layout. In addition ive been doingthis for years please dont take 2 puctures off my german shelf as the whole collection i haveover 200 assorted units of germans ruskies and bongs in addition to this years christmas present to myself 500 to spend on my new units and scenery again primary is self satisfaction of finally completing this and setting it up witha story to tell

>>5316146
I do appreciate the direction though ill be sure to do a little more homework when i finally decide to choose a codex

>>5316761
please stop shitposting about 72nd scale.

>>5317032
Fuck off shiftfag. He didn't say anything bad about 72 scale. Learn to read. Fuck off to tumblr if you get triggered by reading something you don't like. Or better yet, just jump in front of one of those British trains.

>>5317040
>samefagging

>>5317044
>one post
>samefagging

>>5317048
nice try shiftfag

>>5317051
>shiftfagging

>>5317055
>trying to hide the fact you are the shiftfag

You're not fooling anyone.

>>5317032
>>5317044
>>5317048
>>5317051
>>5317055
Samefag.
I don't know why the mods won't ban you,.

>>5317069
stfu shiftfag >:(

>>5317074
>http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-style-multifunction-1SET-diamond-Files-for-Glass-LX0002/2024350303.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_3_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_5,searchweb201560_10
>>5317069
>>5317058
>>5317055
>>5317051
>>5317048
>>5317044
>>5317040
>>5317032
And this right here is why no one posts anything good in these threads anymore. Congratulations cancerous people, I guess you got what you wanted.

>>5317279
>not http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2015-alibaba-express-sex-toys-animal-dildos-real-feeling-warm-new-style-horse-dildo/32391550087.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.44.R7DQ2V&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_1

I wish mods would ban these faggots

>>5316461
>>5316761
>>5317032
BMD guy here. Yes, Trumpy makes lots of modern soviet hardware, built their BMP-1P - it was great, pretty much value for 25 bucks, PE parts, single link tracks, all the good stuff. But personally i prefer smaller scales, 1/72 and 1/48, mostly because of storage space.

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Aww, yis!

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>>5318138
Git hype

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>>5318142
If they don't do the tracks in that retarded semi-bendable plastic, this will be the best 72nd scale T-34/85 kit.

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Update on my Panther D.
I have done some preshading with a Panzergrau color on the edges and added a basic layer of Dunkelgeld on it.

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>>5318162
Then I added a small amount of little more brighter Dunkelgeld on some areas.

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>>5318165
The light is a little bit shitty today so the colors on the pics doesnt look that good.

>>5318143
>best 1/72 T-34/85
>what is Dragon

>>5318168
Dragon 72nd scale models are overpriced as fuck. The Zvezda willl be highly affordable.

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>>5318138
>mfw snap fit

If only Zvezda would make more actual 1/72 kits like the GOAT T-90A they recently put out

>>5318473
They're decent detail, and certain parts need to be glued.

What's the best brand for ww2 props if you've never made a model before, *unless games like 40k count*.

Is there a brand that is cheap in cost to practice with?

>>5318581

If you want a cheap kit in case you fuck up. Go with Revell. It will require some seam work and dry fitting, but can't go wrong with the price.

If you want an easy to build kit with little amounts of dryfitting and seamwork, go with tamiya, there are some kits you can find for cheap as they are oldish, but still great.

>>5318581
>>5318590
Tamiya is good. But revell is not. Their 1/72 tanks have poorly engineered link-and-length tracks.

people often forget that wargames models exist. Try:
>armourfast
>plasticsoldiercompany
>pegasus models

these are dirt cheap (mostly), easy to make and ideal for beginners.

>>5318603

You need to disconnect from "MUH ARMOR" as he is talking about WW2 Prop aircraft.

Revell is good with aircraft models, specially for beginners.

>>5318607
Oh right, I thought he was talking about props as in, like, 'movie props'.

>>5318581
Airfix do a nice range of propeller aircraft, though they are mostly british. They are cheap and fairly nice.

>>5318581
Airfix, Revell or Academy

Academy has shitty decals though.

>>5318581
Be warned. Prop planes are hard. I've built Warhammer models before and planes are a far cry form them- I always found that biplanes are more suited to someone with experience in building planes. Perhaps consider making some spitfires or 109's as practice.

>>5318786
holy shit I'm tired

I forgot planes other than biplanes have props

I'm going to sleep

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>>5318824

Can't find my hueing intensifies gif, so I'm using this one instead.

>>5318473
Right now their IS-2 kit is the best in 72nd scale.

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I'm currently using pic related for my PE parts, and I apply it with a toothpick, but most of the time for small parts it ends up seeping out and the sides and creating a goopy mess.

Do I just need to learn how to control the amount better or is there a better brand of CA glue out there?

>>5319442
http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html

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>>5319442
Krazy glue, Scotch and most CA glue brands offer gel-type varieties that don't run all over the place

>>5318581
Tamiya 1/48 MM series. These tanks are just a little bit more difficult than your average 40k tank, and they are comparable in size. (if that matters for you)
And their price is reasonable. I wouldn't go for 1/72, to many, to small parts for my taste (coming from 40k/tabletop background).

>>5318607
So is italeri and tamiya

>>5318317
>15€ for a Dragon T-34/85
>expensive

>>5319780
Not in Bongland. They're like, £18-20 here.

>>5319743
Ah, okay, I'll try looking for that variety the next time I buy stuff. Thanks, anon.

>>5319780
Could you provide a link where i can order it for that price?
Here (germany) dragon 1/72 kits are sometimes more expensive than revell or tamiya 1/35 kits.

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Ferdinand model kit World of Tank edition from Italeri.

>>5320035
>World of Tank edition

>>5320035
I really hope you got this because you play WoT and intend to use (or sell) the bonus code that is included.

I say this because its not a new kit, but rather their old Tiger P Elefant with a new box. (And it costs maybe twice the price of the old boxed kit).

Did you pay 45€ for it or do i misread the price tag there?
You could have bought it for less than 30 here:
http://www.rc-toy.de/cosmoshop/cgi-bin/lshop.cgi?params=k_2fwt6y

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>>5320035
>paying 45€ for a shitty Italeri kit from the 60s

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>>5320035

>>5320035
Man, I think the money you paid for is is mainly for the game code, lol.

>>5320035
I would return it and choose another one.

>>5320092
For 45, he could get 2 italeri kits.

>>5320035
sorry anon, I mean if you like the model and you're down for WOT codes then keep it, but you could get a model 100X better for that price

>>5320035
how are you going to build it? paint scheme?
I want something similar, but not high on my list atm.

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Someone offered it to me actually and yes she paid 45e for it.
I wanted leFh18b2 bonus code with it because i play this faggot game.
I will sure look for better quality next time :)

>>5320400
If you are using the code then its somewhat ok-ish since its a rare bonus tank but still..

>>5320400
>>5320150
I asked you a fucking question ffs

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So nearly finished my Panther tank

>>5320573
Thats the new tamiya one from the thread before?

Camo looks great, but what have you done to that decal at the turret side?

>>5319780
Zvezda 72nd scale tanks cost 3 (sometimes 4) times less than Dragon ones here in Bulgaria.

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Prime Time

>>5320035
Tamiya makes a better (and very recent) elefant for the same price.

Dragon also makes a decent Elefant that is also much better than Italeri's kit. I suggest you return it and get the Tamiya kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-35325-German-Tank-Destroyer-Elefant-1-35-scale-kit-/391288028249

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>>5321221
Those barrels are kawaii.

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>>5321221
>>5321279
AWH thanks=3 i kinda did that with the intention of having them look battle worn but in other news someone was asking the other wekk about how to mak them look damaged and what not its just a matter of preference... if you don't mind "wrecking" a 40$ piece by doing this to it i can assure you all the end result is worth it

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>>5321388

>>5321388
Just so you know: those plates are thin metal in reality, and not really hard to remove from the tank.
Anything (did they fight huge dinosaurs or something?) that would scratch the Schürzen-plate that much would simply rip the panel off the tank

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>>5320653
Thanks, and yes it´s the new Tamiya kit from the thread before.
The decal looks so because its been placed on the plug for the MP port. Here a pic without the number.

>>5310944
looks like a plastic toy, not like a real car.

>>5321717
Are you going to weather it a bit more?

>>5321752
I'm not that guy, but model cars are hard to get looking real. Because you want your model to be immaculate just like real cars, so it looks a little toy-like.

Are resin miniatures worth it?

>>5321758
Some are, others aren't. Depends on the manufacturer alot.
Which ones are you looking at?

>>5321759
I'm looking for a soviet soldier to sit in the bed of a truck. I'm not sure which brands to buy since I have no experience in resin.

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>>5321759
I'm liking the look of this one.

>>5321690
not a dino but certainly hulk tanks could 1 shot it and pennitration and cracks did occur - pior to flling off so maybe once your 2 dimentional mind see the colour scheme i can reply to some more shitposting with sexy complete battle worn tankage

>>5321821
You're kind of an asshole, aren't you?

>>5321821
Everything could shot straight through it. It wasn't intended to stop armorbreaking rounds. In my opinion you have overdone it.

>>5321389
just looks like you've gone at it with a knife.

whats your reference?

>>5321388
>>5321690
>>5321821
Just a side note - a history grad thats coming from /K to share my manchildery With someone other then family. dont take me for a complete goon as far as what sort of damaged they encured besides the stug is going to be immobalized across from concealed brtish 6 pdr

>>5321822
You aren't? Wheres your work in progress?

>>5321834
>You aren't? Wheres your work in progress?

wow, who the fuck cares? He brought up a legitimate point, if you want to counter by saying wait for the finished product, then let that be it.

>>5321824
Theres many ways that damage could of happened falling debris shrapanel which will be sticking out of the sides of those cracks and more you all are flat faced gooks had an imaginatoin but now that you have now shit posted me out of /toy/ fuckyou all im going back to more man less child of a board and fuck you - youre really juat vexxed you didnt have enough balls to try some thing "out side of the modeling box"

>>5321843
Face it anon,

it looks like shit.

>>5321843
on a scale of 1-10 how autistic are you?

Just ignore them, if they interpret valid historical criticisms as 'shitposting' they are either a troll or an autist.

>>5321843
I have no problem with you doing it "out of the box".
I just wanted to point out that it doesn't look like normal battlefield damage and more like some huge wild animal/monster tearing that tank up.

Since you left you probably wont read it, but if you want to do scratches, don't do them in random directions all over the place. Falling debris does "fall". If it scratches the tank, those scratches go from the top to the bottom.

Whatever.

What is it that scale modelers always react like this when it comes to critic? I know that several big forums have that retarded "only nice comments"-rule. Laughable in itself, but obviously much needed with their audience.

>>5321852
Most of the regular people on this board can take criticism.

File: 1449381822302.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>5321851
This. No harm was intended.

1. would knock the tank out. (Apparently he wants to model it knocked out so its ok)
2 and 6 look like a broken mirror.
3 and 4 look like actual scratches.
5 is fine, a random machine gun salvo hit it

>>5321854
And thats why i'm still here.

>>5321856
>And thats why i'm still here.
It's a shame a couple of people stopped posting. Some time soon I'll be posting WIP pictures of a couple of 35th scale models.

>>5321854
Anybody who takes this hobby seriously should actively welcome constructive criticism, it makes you get better.

>>5321859
Exactly, I've had negative comments about figures I posted. But guess what? Now I thin my paints and only paint under natural light.

>>5321861
>and only paint under natural light.

Thats not only good for the painted result, but also for your eyes.

File: 1418381434402.jpg (397KB, 886x674px) Image search: [Google]

397KB, 886x674px

>>5321861
If you are who I think you did a much better job than I did starting out in any case.

And for people who are interested here is a nice picture of what shells can do to those plates.

new thread
>>5321873

>>5321874
Do not post in this thread created by the raging anti-gundam autist.

>>5321867
It doesn't look remotely like >>5321856

Actual new thread: >>5321893

>>5321876
Pointing out that its not for Gundam which is the entire point of these threads does not make you a 'raging autist', it means you remember why these threads were made in the first place and that you want to avoid confusion.

>>5321885
Not a bit no.

>>5321874
>>5321901
Samefag

>>5321911
Stop trolling.

These threads were made because scale model discussion was drowned out in Gundam threads so people wanted a place to talk about it seperately.

And until very recently every single scale plastic model thread said this is not the thread for Gundam models in the OP text, its there to avoid confusion. Now do you have an actual rational argument against this or do you plan to wrongly scream samefag again?

File: 1372999458962.png (7KB, 201x199px) Image search: [Google]

7KB, 201x199px

>>5321874
>>5321897

>>5321922
The thread that has the same OP text as this one is the new thread.

>>5321913
No they didn't. The very first one did not (Scale Plastics in the archive) and the recent ones made by a tripfag did not. After this general was started, you started making the threads with the "no gundams" rule. You also just posted in the new troll thread with you shitty OP with the "no gundams" rule.

>>5321913
>And until very recently every single scale plastic model thread said this is not the thread for Gundam models in the OP text,
U wot m8?
Here's one of the original threads with the original OP.
http://4chandata.org/toy/Scale-Plastics-a754446

>>5321925
>you

Again, stop being pathetic. Screaming samefag does not make you correct.

And yes, I posted in the first one linked because I am not a petty tribalistic moron and chose the thread not being spammed by a troll. I am here to discuss scale modelling and the history behind it, not scream and whine like a child over what is in the OP.

I was in these threads from the beginning, they were specifically started to be separate from the Gundam ones. There is nothing wrong with having the text in the OP to make it clear they are separate.

>>5321937
>being this pathetic

Actual original op here, I aint made a thread in a couple of months now.
Its like dealing with children.
See the spastics posting in the new thread?
I just cant be doing with this shit anymore.
Same as all the other original posters who don't post anymore.

>>5321973
know any good websites for me to post my models?
I don't really give a shit about 4chan, I just want criticism and discussion.

>>5321979
I don't know, it depends where you live, its useful to be around locals, they all generally buy from the same places, use the same stuff.
will send you shit for free.
I'm not a member of any atm, I hate registering at forums these days.

>>5321988
The forums are as bad as this place with constant bickering and shitposting. Better off just posting your own blog somewhere.

>>5321973
I think children is understating it, the people who keep screaming samefag or going full retard over what is in the OP actively want these threads to die.

>>5321843
Have fun at ISM. Say hi to Paul from me, you hugbox loving faggot. Also you have to have some vivid imagination if you think your "battle damage" is realistic in any way.

>>5322036
Glad I'm not the only one who hates UMP's forum.

>>5322115
It wouldn't be that bad if it wasn't for people like Paul, Coen, Hollywood modelling and all the other modelling "celebrities". I've seen at least a few rational people there, who try to give advice and constructive criticism but then Paul shows up and shits up everything with his faggotry. "ISM is a safe place(space) for all modelers :)."

I mean look at this shit.
http://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?f=422&t=14928

>>5322283
The more I look at that model, the more shit it appears. That gore looks like some Warhammer conversion I did when I was 12

>>5322301
The funny thing is that guy insists it's realistic in any way shape or form.

>the body is burned and cut in half and left for a day or so
>scorched dead body
>fresh 2 gallons of blood
Either his feelings are hurt or he's a grade A retard

>you got to be careful about that around here It will get you banned fast Mack
>Safe space free of hate :)