WIP - Work In Progress General

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>when you have more money than you have good ideas

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>>55118202
>when you get told that you overdesign so you overdesign even more

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>>55118202
>Huge cannon mounted on backbag
>Not mounted as a dick blaster

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Took a while but I rebased my army with a better flock, redid the ork skins by touching it up as well as doing minor details I missed before like tattoos and gums and such.

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Wanted to continue work on my SCE conversion idea I had over the weekend for a Celestial Hurricanum, but the flgs is closed due to vacation until the 11th. Now I sit here, staring at the caster with no hurricanum to build...

Is there a specific way you're supposed to put the emblems on Space Marine pauldrons? Also is the studded pauldron supposed to go on the right or the left?

>>55119003
Chapter badge goes on the left, role (tactical, devestator etc. etc.) goes on the right

>>55118865
that's a shame, through you could try to order something online, even though the wait won't be better.

I really dig your SE-wizard, he looks really damm good! How are you gonna paint him up?

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>>55119073

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>>55119079
Yeah, but I prefer to actually buy my shit at the flgs, since I play there as well.

>How are you gonna paint him up?
Same as the rest of my stormhost, silver, brass and red.

>>55119120
>>55119120
>>55119003

Also when did SPESS MUHREENS get such huge bases? The last SPASS MEHREENZ I built had the usual tiny infantry bases.

>>55119154
They're not manlets anymore

>>55119143
>>55118865
>playing stormkikes eterncucks

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>>55119256
Forgot pic

>>55119268
>>55119256

>>>/pol/

You have to go back.

Are there any good dinosaur miniatures or models out there? I really want to paint a dinosaur for some reason.

>>55119419
Second, i need cold one-proxies. Or are the druchii ones the best raptors avaliable somewhat cheap?

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Hey anons finished this guy last month. What do you think? The back could use a touch up i know. Been bogged down with study and havent even been able to find time to put paint to brush in like 4 weeks. Although im hoping to finish my flayrant this weekend when i finish all my assignments. Lend me your strength fellas.

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>>55119585
Heres the back thats going to get touched up this weekened if i find time.

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3 blood angels intercessors down so far

>>55120246
Those chads look magnificent. Manlets are truly doomed

>>55120246
What is going on with the scrolls on pistol guy? Is he standing in a hurricane?

>>55120246
MOULDLINES ARRRGH

Ruins a nice enough paintjob. Also recommend darker brown under the cracking paint on the base rather than bare black.

Old helmets look slightly small, are they way smaller than the stock ones?

>>55120246
Bretty gud, but one thing to add along with what >>55120443 said, it makes it look a bit off when the scrolls are clearly being blown around, but the gun strap is hanging calm. It would be better to either convert a blowing gunstrap, remove it, or have the hip-scrolls less blowy

>>55120246
Mk VII ftw! Seriously, though, any other helmets would look good besides the stock ones though. I do kind of want to see someone try fitting a Mk VI though, with the gorget filed away

Anyone have tips or links for painting skulls?
I've bought an old Spacewolf dreadnought and it's covered in skull-trophies

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>>55119003
>Is there a specific way you're supposed to put the emblems on Space Marine pauldrons? Also is the studded pauldron supposed to go on the right or the left?

Generally speaking, chapter emblem goes on the left, company/squad/designations go on the right. However:

-- Terminators and Veterans typically reverse this, with chapter on the right and Crux Terminatus on the left
-- Deathwatch Veterans have home chapter on the right with Deathwatch pauldron on the left.
-- Mk VI armour (usually) has chapter on the right with studded pauldron on the left.

>>55120853
I usually go the Duncan route in whatever video he's doing, but Zandri Dust - Agrax - Ushabti - something lighter (rakarth flesh or white scar, depending) is usually a good approach.

>>55118248

Dig these, the heads not so much.

>>55120246

Please do black rims.

>>55121334
Heads are gonna get some proper work done before it's finished, do not worry.

>>55120475
they're the exact same size as the MkX ones

the gorgets are just like that

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Practicing some new stuff, trying for Salamanders.

>>55121851
looks more sons of medusa/invaders at the moment

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working some Death Guard. I converted the Big guy into Typhus, so this guy got the fancy standard instead.

>>55121938
looking good, whatever that blue stuff that's leaving out of him is I think it's looking a bit flat and maybe glossing it would help

>>55121851
>>55121869

Agreed, it looks really smooth but the green is too light for Salamanders. Absolutely spot on for Sons of Medusa though

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>>55121938
Plus I finished my Palgue Drone.

the Nurgles Rot paint is still wet so it's a bit uneven.

>>55121869
>>55121968
I'm going to darken it up with washes, if it doesn't work out ill figure something for the rest of the set.
I went super beight because i didn't wamt to end iu with everything looking muddy.

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r8 my sorcerer

>>55122197
THICC paints

Never worked with resin models before and just got some orcs from a kickstarter thing i backed awhile ago. I'm wondering, do i need to wash the models in water before i spray them? They don't feel greasy or like they have any kind of coating on them but i think i recall hearing that your supposed to clean resin models before beginning to paint them?

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Some Raven Guard chadmarines with plasma guns. Still got to finish the tactical chads.

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>>55122408

Crap reposted the unsized one

>>55122408
'STRALIA
They look pretty cool, I think they need something to break the black up a bit, it's really really plain at the moment

>>55122282
Yes, also be sure to wear a mask if you are filing, resin dust is particularly nasty stuff.

>>55119585
>>55119601
Really nice, the colour works well on them. Distinctive without being gaudy

>>55121009
zandri, sepia wash, ushabti, screaming skull

>>55121009
Vallejo make a wash/ink called "smoke" that is a dark strong brown, good for darker bone if you thin it down. Smells awful though

Also, good for wood, leather and dirt.

>>55122502

Thank you, i will do *(appreciate that warning for sure!) i already cleaned off some flash with just my modeling blade not realizing the materials were so dangerous to breathe in. Do you happen to know if plastic glue will work on these parts or is super glue the name of the game here? I imagine it depends on the material of the resin or i dont know if resin is universally the same?

Ty for your help.

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>>55120853
>>55121009
For skills I wash white with agrax and watered down blue then sepia and watered down red. Gives a nice mixed base colour that I think is better to build on than standard brown. Then I highlight with whatever bone colour I have up to Vallejo ivory or alternatively with Vallejo DE Green or death world forest up to bone and ivory. Sorry for the shitty repurposed pics.

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Messing around with washes on my plague marines. Pretty happy with this this shade. Washes also lets the metallic undercoat still shine through.

>>55123025
CA glue should work fine. Suggest drilling and pinning stuff in place too. Resin is brittle and has a habit of snapping if you're clumsy.

>>55123058
>Metallic marines
Stop.
>Metallic Plague Marines
We're doomed.

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>>55118128
Is it true that Duncan's birthday is tomorrow?

>>55123058
Get thee behind me plebeian taste

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So I hear you are absolutely supposed to prime Forge World models with actual primer, but the Forge World pamphlet recommends to use Chaos Black as a primer. I'm confused here

>>55123046
that's a nice set of colors, god damm!
how'd you make that armor? just a simple gray, then wash-thing?

>>55123429
Looks like a mix of Vallejo paints. 70.885 to 70.971 maybe?

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Could any of you kind anons tell me how to get this champagne colored Metal trim for a caphracti terminator?

>>55123947
Liberator gold, rather than retributor gold.

>>55123191

If it's true, we should make him a card.

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Terminator librarian with force sword and storm shield.

Maybe the most useful HQ I've wasted money on so far.

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And I couldnt resist Plague Marines.

I've always liked chaos so I might do a chaos army. No conversions for this one though.

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>>55123429
It's more hassle than it's worth I think, and a part of the reason I'm struggling to motivate myself to keep painting them. Right guy is armour before washes. Base is Vallejo pale blue 71.008 with a bit of sick green 72.729. Then sponge and brush on some rust, highlight everything up to near white. Matte varnish it. Then I use mig dark wash and AK interactive light rust wash in a few layers for the grime. I'm pleased with how they look but I think I need to do a big batch to make it worthwhile.

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Here is my Nurgle Sorcerer I'm working on.

When I play 6th edition, I use him as a Sorcerer, when I play AoS I use him as a Lord of Chaos.

I like keeping him more simple and subtle than the over-the-top stuff you see coming out of GW these days.

>>55124449

That looks gorgeous

>>55122197

He's a Tabletop 7, Display case 4

>>55119585

Phenomenal work.

>>55118128
I wanna paint my Eldar as Saim-Hann
Corax White Spray or Mechanicus Standard Grey Spray for undercoat?

>>55123947
I get similar gold by using P3 Blighted gold and then adding runefang steel, give it a really light green glaze afterwards.

>>55119585
>>55119601
It definitely needs edge highlights. For both the blue and orange.

>>55118128
I have a non uniform Primaris army in the works but was looking for a way to bind them all together. I like Deathwatch's silver arm idea but don't want to steal it outright. I had then thought of a metallic red arm. Any good metallic red paints or a nice recipe to work around to one? I know some people use highlighted metallics + glazes to make Alpha Legion armor; could you do the same with Bloodletter glaze?

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>>55124651
ill take it

>>55123353
I would like to know as well

>>55124449
that's really cool!
if you don't mind me asking, how would you make a yellow-ish dirty/worn armor for nurgle? I've been looking for something to tie into my Daemons of nurgle army, which is mostly yellow. My first thought was to go for grey armor with yellow cloth, but I was also thinking yellow armor with a darker cloth and rim color, such as dark grey or black.
problem is, doing off-yellow/worn yellow armor is very new to me.

>>55119268
Your pic just implied that he's playing masterrace.
Well played.

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Still got some touching up and highlighting.

Should I go for grass or snow on the base?

>>55123353

I am new to this game. What is the difference between spray paint and primer?

Does good old Rustoleum work?

>>55124952
heavy drybrushing is not a good look

>>55124952
I like it

>>55124998

:(

It looks better in person swear on me mum anon.

>>55124937
>Stormcucks
>master race

>>55124770
I had nice success with tamiya clear red over golds. Balthazar gold makes a deep metallic red, like a world bearers red. Using a bright bronze makes a really nice candy apple red.

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Reposting my mek gun. Think I'm gonna try to brighten/hilight the non Tau bits, but leave the Tau paint job dingy and beat-up.

What, if anything, do you guys put your miniatures on while painting?

I've been using bluetac+wine corks but the damn wine corks are too narrow and fall over too often, annoying the shit out of me.

>>55125274
I base my minis before priming. So I put them on bases.
Unless you have something really heavy or trying for a golden demon I'm quick enough that I don't worry about handling them.

If I got separate bits I pin them on a bit of wire and put them into my hand drill and use that as handle.
You could also put those things into a winecork or something like that. That's something I do sometimes too.

>>55124413
...you sure did waste your money cause you didn't even clean off the spruce points....let alone the mold lines.

That belongs in the trash

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>>55125274
I ended up with two of these things, somehow. They're great.

>>55125531
some people don't clean off mold lines until they've assembled the mini, it's not like it's painted or anything.

>>55125551
These are a must-have, I have one with a little tray and a light on the magnifying glass and it's so useful for almost every step.

>>55125579
That just seems like a good way slip and mess up other bits, and make getting at certain bits more difficult, though?

>>55125551
>>55125635
What are these things called?

>>55125735
snippity snip battlebots. they use their claws and have a magnifying glass for a sun-based heat ray.

>>55125757
grippy grabby snippy snappies

>>55125757
sounds like xenotech to me, s m h f a m

>>55125735
I think they're called a Helping Hand.

>>55125735
"Helping hands". Personally, I think mine might be defective, as it smashes the shit out of anything I put in the clips, but maybe it's supposed to be that strong.

>>55123353
Bump

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WIP, I need your help, what do I do with this guy? I was thinking warpsmith but even with a ton of bits glued on, the basic armor lacks the pimped out nature of the official model (so bummed out that that fucker is and likely will forever be finecast). I was considering a tank hatch guy or pilot for an aircraft, anyone got some ideas? The plastic stuff is just leftover bits, not essential for the final build.

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>>55118128
Some crimson fist chad aggressors almost there...

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>when you put down your paint/glue/tool somewhere and cant remember where

Even though theres other stuff I could be doing it all grinds to a halt until I find my glue

>>55125927
Dreadnought Pilot maybe?

>>55125273
highlighting is never a bad choice

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Trying to add some decorative details to a wyvern without overgreebling, or pushing it into inquisition/marine territory. Just want it to look like like fancy guard stuff in the vein of the Vostroyans (though not specifically them).

>>55125844
I also have this problem, the clamps dig into the plastic but the magnifying glass is great.

>>55126092
I'm pretty set with dreadnoughts, sadly

>>55125844
you're more or less supposed to pin models, and put the pins on the clamps.

>>55124724
Thanks bro ill definitely highlight the blue. Never thought about doing that before for some reason, ill put it down to being a bit of noob haba

>>55126190
could make a great servitor/cenobyte/chapter serf

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Back to bones for awhile. The lack of detail on these compared to gw minis is so bad sometimes. He's got shit on his backpack I was just guessing at in some cases.

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Took an old encrusted trukk I stripped and added some stuff to it. How's it look?

>>55126345
Ooh. Hadn't thought of that, thanks Anon

>>55126414

looks proppa orky, the cage bar in the back is a lovely touch.

>>55121938
unless hes literally standing like that perfectly still, the blue stuff wouldnt fall like that. It woudl stream down his hand. the torso stream would pool on his kneed annd go down both sides of the calf.

>>55118865
What model is this

>>55119143
That blue is too blue for me but I like the armor color choices.

>>55123025
Cutting it and removing flash with a knife is fine, but if you're sanding it or vigorously cutting it with a saw it would be best to either wear a mask (make sure it's a good enough mask to filter fine particles) or hold the model underwater/keep it wet while you do it.
As the other anon said superglue is the stuff you need.

>>55124620

Looks great, cant wait to sere him painted!

>>55125648
>>55125531

I prep the miniature before painting, never messed up a thing.If I had all my life to paint I wouldnt assemble them but as it is I like to see them done in shape before starting some other day or some other month

I also greenstuff so it doesnt matter.

>>55126408
I went and gave myself a conversion boner looking at the stormraven (torso swap the pilot) but if that doesn't work out, I could definitely put together a dark mechanicum creation with him, thanks!

>>55121973
>that 2001 eye
I am sorry Dave, I am afrai I cannot do t-BLLEEEEEEEUUUUURRGH

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Lamenter Sergeant has been coming along slowy but that's due to me working again. At least I got all the glaze highlighting done, all I need to do now is do some edge highlighting and paint all the satchels. weapons, etc.

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>>55124952
Decided to go for snow.

>>55126411
Looks proper dnd.

Say what you like about gw and their jewish ways but their models really are second to none

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>>55126414

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>>55125274
>What, if anything, do you guys put your miniatures on while painting?
>I've been using bluetac+wine corks but the damn wine corks are too narrow and fall over too often, annoying the shit out of me.

You're on the right track, but I too find the wine corks too narrow; I like something I can set down on the desk and have my model remain upright.

In this picture, you'll see that my WIP Sanguinary Priest is standing atop a large pill bottle lid. He's fastened to it with blue-tac, just like you've been using.

>>55125735
>What are these things called?

"Grabbas" or "Grab-nabbers". I have one as well, but I seldom use it unless I need a model's glue to dry while the pieces are arranged in a very specific position.

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I'm looking on starting a conversion-heavy post-heresy emperor's children army and I plan on putting a lot of time in on details, especially the bases. I was thinking about using pic related as inspiration for the bases, but I'm not sure if it would fit post-heresy EC as much as EC beginning their fall. Thoughts?

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>>55126411

There's a reason bones cost a fraction as much as GW. IMO the bones series really shines when you need lots of models that don't need to be very detailed (skeletons, goblins, orcs, zombies, that sort of thing), scenery pieces or the larger models.

Large bones models have enough detail to not look unfinished but they won't rape your wallet unless you're buying the huge dragons and even then they are still relatively cheap. You can get lots of quality big bones models in the $5-20 range. Pic related is from the bones site but the model is only $9. You walk into GW with $9 and they will laugh you out of the store.

>>55128531
>9 dollars
>For that piece of Chinese garbage shit

>>55128594

Duncan plz

>>55128594

>$0.05 has been deposited to your account from Games Workshop UK.

>>55128621
No honestly. 9 dollars for that piece of shit is ridiculous. I might as well buy a bag of army men and practice painting those. At least with GW you get a consistent quality plastic that isn't outsourced and manufactured in China

What are some cheap and simple methods for making decent hexagonal shapes for bases?

>>55128172
Are those coconut flakes?

>>55128621
Anon's being twatty, but honestly they are like sub-heroclix board game piece levels of quality, and while cheap for "gaming miniatures", barely deserve the name

>>55128653
The guy was right about them being good for cheap mass models.

I'd use their skeletons over gw's if I was running a dnd campaign or the like

>>55126120
really loves this mode, are they decent in game play?

>>55128711

What series is this? Can't seem to find it online.

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Here's some wips
I wanted my reivers to be dark and spoopy like some skellington infiltrators so they can look sneaky like.

>>55128519

I actually ended up ordering a bunch of 35mm film containers off Amazon for like $15. They should be wide enough to stand up and not fall over, especially after I fill them full of sand.

>>55128775
reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones

>>55118854
I like the facepalming runtherd! Thats amazing

>>55128857

Jesus christ their website is ass. Every page takes forever to load.

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>>55126120
Really like the front sprocketwheels, it's a subtle touch but a nice one. The plethora of tilting shields on the turret fells like a bit much though.

>>55125844
>>55126158
>>55126345
I use small chunks of denim or rubber to wrap the models before I clip 'em. Helps avoid marring the paint job or plastic without the need to PIN FUCKING EVERYTHING, and lets me use them to force models into a proper position for gluing as well.

>>55125274
>What, if anything, do you guys put your miniatures on while painting?
Foot-pin through a champagne cork with the top cut off (it's got a ~30mm diameter, so much more stable than the ~15-20mm wine corks), or just stick a wad of oil-clay to the underside of the base (for grunts). The latter saves a lot of time but unless you use white clay it stains your fingers a little. Helping Hands are for shit like micro-lettering or using a Sakura to do panel-lining on a low-scale mecha.

>>55128531
Bones are fucking great when you need something cheap, fun, and relatively disposable. I have some stuck in my Frostgrave band. You can also convert a Bones base really damned easily with better parts from other manufacturers (like taking their power-armored shitmarines and giving them Anvil Industries guns..). Pic related - there's six Bones models in there, with several bits used in conversions. The rat ogre has some heavy resculpting on the hands, shoulders, and back along with hand replacements and an arm reposition, and I carved a little extra detail into it. Whole rest of the model cost me about as much as sourcing the Ogre Kingdoms bits for his left hand, and took less than a half-hour to convert and sculpt up.

>>55123353
chaos black is GW's black primer. You might be thinking of Abaddon black, which is a base paint and has a different finish

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>>55128937
>Jesus christ their website is ass

Just like their models

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I want to make a small killteam of Tacticool Operator sisters but all I can think of paint-wise is the Obsidian Shield. Is there something I'm missing? Do Tacticool colors not work on sisters?

>>55128980
But I heard that Chaos Black isn't actually a primer, just a paint in a can

>>55129193
Chaos black spray is just primer for dummies like me.

>>55129006
>Wants to be Tacticool
>No Olive Drab, Coyote Brown, Camo, or Solid Black OPR8R
>Not painting their eyes like NOD's.

>>55126068
Really like the way you did them and because of seeing your models, i'm seeing two very important things when it comes to painting aggressors.
The first is you NEED to highlight the edge of the gauntlet and secondly, the actual hand needs to be a different color than the armor plate on top

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Working on some trees using Woodland Scenics Realistic Tree kits. Kind of a bitch to get them to look right, but I've got some pine trees outside my window and they look close enough.

>>55124449
Love these! Skin is great

Quick, post your buildan/paintan/convertan music of choice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6qlPoNKa9sI

Don't mind me, just the posting the comfiest OST ever.

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>>55124900
>>55124900
If you like this it's rakarth flesh > sepia wash > rakarth / pallid wych highlight. Left one isn't highlighted, I think sepia over anything light would work

>>55129379

OY FECK OFF YA CUNT WE'RE FULL

>>55129321

One of the greatest ost's of all time.

Shame the movie was merely ok.

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>tfw prepped and based a bunch of models and get excited to prime... then notice one model is missing because he was being photographed for /WIP/ and got left behind - and his base was not done!

Oh well, there's always tomorrow!

Am I safe to use this for priming, http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Septone-Primer-Surfacer-Grey-Acrylic-400g/33188

>>55129309
They look fine to me man. I'd love to play on a board with those trees!

>>55129321

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-bTcOEHkqg

>>55128937

It's slow right now because they have a huge Kickstarter in its final days and they are redirecting traffic to their site because KS is having trouble uploading all their images of the new models.

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>>55128966

Wyvern poster here, really appreciate the thoughts. I use a lot of heraldryish details on my infantry and was thinking about placed to paint it on the tank. The shields were picked with that in mind and maybe a loose inspiration of shields on the side of a longboat. Do you think it'd do better to maybe take the top two off the turret and possibly put them somewhere else?

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how bad is it?

>>55129759
I've jumped on the bandwagon for the last two Kickstarters and I gotta say it's really nice to be able to just randomly grab a mini to paint everyday (I have like 200) plus I have anything I'd need for dnd now.

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>>55129802

>>55129802
>>55129812
breddy gud

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>>55129803

I was too poor for previous Reaper Kickstarters but I'm no longer a poorfag. I currently have $270ish committed to this one and I know there are a few more things I need to add. Pic related is something new on this series.

>>55129812
God damnit anon, either line up your models in focus or don't include them. Your zoom isn't magic and it can't focus on both at once.
/mad

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>>55129873

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>>55129933

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>>55129954
better?

>>55129971
Heck yeah, those are looking pretty good. Pretty standard colour scheme but still looking good.

>>55130009
yeah thanks Im not inventive I guess kek. might do different hair for others like a bright blue and green.

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>>55129254
So after trying all those colors and not liking them I went searching for a scheme.

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>>55118128

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>>55130268

>>55130268
need more practice, next time make sure you've got a decent base coat before you start doing anything else, also spraypaint makes this process a lot easier)

How long do I have to let my primer set before I can start painting for real? (Army painter primer FWIW)

>>55129799

The shield sitting along the bottom edge of the treads seems poorly placed. It would immediately start dragging through mud and probably get ripped off while moving. I'd put it closer to the level of the "gothic vents," or along the upper edge of the treads.

I don't mind the tilting shields on the turret so much, though you could probably get away with fewer. Or relocating one of them to a front fender.

>>55130459

10-15 minutes for Army painter

>>55130268
White takes a number of thin coats if you based it black.

>>55130532

Oh gotcha, should have specified the green shield on the side isn't meant to be fixed there (its the same one on the front hatch in the second pic) , it just isn't glued yet and was leaning on the model in that shot.

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WIP of a wight standard bearer.

>>55126085
Dude thats me.
I squirrel my glue away and have to look all over to find it. Found it behind my TV this time around.
I can't do shit until I have everything.

>>55130574
Shiiiiiiit I've always done 24 hours.

>>55130756
Love it!

Playing Mount & Blade made me want to do something like this once.

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Been showing off some progress for a board I'm going to use to demo small skirmish games like Relicblade and Frostgrave for a few days now, here's how it stands at the end of tonight.

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2/7

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3/7

All I really need to do now is give the trees a bit of a more stable base, and seal them with some matte varnish.

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4/7

I've also been contemplating putting some snow on the trees because of the obvious cold nature of the board, but I feel as if they look good enough the way they are and I could use them on non winter boards with no snow on them.

Thoughts/opinions?

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5/7

I like the idea of using the big tower with the interior for demo stuff because removing the layers and having new people fight up through the floors seems like something that'd have some "wow" factor.

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6/7

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7/7

I probably should've put some minis in these photos.

>>55129799
>>using 3 kits, one which is a expensive forge world kit to build your 5 point infantry models.

now that is dedication and it looks fucking kickass.

>>55130459
>>55130574
>>55130574
>>5513088

I wait 48hrs sometimes 72hrs

>>55126120
you should move the tiling shield from the bottom of the tank, it'd get dirty and probably broken of the second the tank had to traverse bumpy terrain.

>>55131189
I wait months at a time

so I've grown allergic to CA glue, does anyone know of a non CA based "non toxic" super glue alternative, or should I just give up and get into some other hobby like knitting.

>>55124900
I'd do it the same way but with a yellow base colour. I wouldn't attempt it without an airbrush though, or if you're confident in spray cans a yellow spray can base coat over a light primer. Chip and highlight it in the same way, you can be pretty bold with highlights on yellow. If you're using washes for weathering you will want to test how they affect the end colour too, as you can see it change the grey fairly considerably.

>>55131011
Im jealous as fuck.
I use a wood board with cheap green terrain "grass", legos, army man fortifications, and books for my games

I want to get some more librarians for warp shenanigans, but don't want to drop the cash for individual models. Do you think the standard opponent would object to kitbashed grey knights? I mean, they've got the psychic hood, their box comes with staffs and weapons a librarian can use, and I've seen worse ideas/proxies.

>>55131588
I figure a box of the standard knights would work great, but you know how waacfags can be.

>>55127903
Oh, he's coming along nicely. I'm enjoying seeing your progress.

How many lamenters are you planning on making? One squad? An army? Just curious.

I think I would enjoy painting minis, but I never really cared for tabletop games. Is there a market for finished minis? I'm debating getting into the hobby, but I'm not sure what I would do with the completed product. Opinions?

>>55131588
cover up the GK shit and you're golden

>>55131661

There is a market but you'll likely need to hit a minimum threshold of ability/learn some trendy techniques to sell minis anywhere other than randos at your flgs. Like most things, unless you really invest in it it won't be a serious source of income which may suck a lot of the joy out of it.

If you think you might just want to paint stuff for stuff's sake there's a huge variety of historical kits and small brand stuff that's cheap (and shapeways if you have niche interests.)

>>55131723
I appreciate that. Artsy bullshit has always come pretty naturally to me. I think this would be a fun direction for a while. I'm not looking for a source of income, just to not have minis sitting around. Please elaborate a bit more on historical kits and small brand stuff... What would be the big brand stuff?

Also, why do I feel like I see Warhammer minis ten times over than I do for D&D?

>>55131811
bc you dont need minis for dnd

>>55131709
Good shit. While I'm on the topic, are there any sets that would make for good chaplain kitbashes? I don't particularly mind if they're missing a lot of the skulls and bones, I just need the heretic beating sticks and skull helmets. I figure the closest would be some SoB set, but I want to avoid metal and resin cast if possible.

>>55131884
Look at some of the DA sprues. The knights have good maces and gothic bones and shit in general

>>55131811

Warhammer is visible because its been the de facto miniatures games for decades and takes a large number of minis to play. DnD can benefit from minis but they aren't required and you don't need many even if used.

Gamesworkshop (Warhammer/40k) is the big brand and the most expensive per kit. Its follow by Privateer Press's Warmachine/Hordes games and Corvus Belli's Infinity. Requiring somewhat less and many fewer minis than Warhammer respectively to play, they're also both marginally cheaper.

X Wing is an extremely popular game (rivaling Warhammer) but its minis come pre-assembled and painted. Repainting is a niche part of its community.

Stuff outside of these is what I mean when I say historical/small brand. They tend to be cheaper (but not always Kingdom Death has beautiful and weird mini's that's attracted a very talented painter following, and is extremely exclusive to acquire.)

TLDR a Warhammer tank will probably put you out $40+, a nice Tamiya model panzer is somethign like $15.

>>55131915

Of course you also have to consider actually selling stuff. There's plenty of people that like building model panzers and take pride in painting them, fewer people are interesting in buying a pre-painted one soley for display and the gaming side of historical minis, while passionate isn't huge. Warhammer will cost more to buy a kit, but there's more people that want it, and a large base of folks that play for the game and don't want to paint their own minis.

If you want to fool around troll ebay to salvage people's false starts in the hobby. You easily pick up a half painted tank for less than new one, strip it yourself and repaint it for practice, or sale.

>>55131904
>The guys famous for hyper aggressive heretic hunting and purgation, with a religious theme to them would have a bunch of chaplain viable bits.

Fuck I'm retarded.

>>55131872
>>55131915
>>55131949
Good info.
I guess should probably actually do some research how these games are played. I assumed Warhammer was very similar to D&D, which I also don't know about, but am interested in the role playing and world building/exploring aspects. D&D strikes me as a little bit prohibitive in what I can bring to the table, DM depending.

>>55129799
They feel.. a little too symmetrical, if that makes sense? The front and center third of the shield is a huge bare area, and then the flanks are tiny and cluttered, but the whole rest of the tank has some heavy asymmetry. Maybe a larger shield on the right side and then keep the two on the left? Or maybe spread them out onto the track guards? Those are bit empty compared to the business everywhere else. The hatch on the left side of the top of the Chimera chassis is also a good shield shape, you might be able to use that as the "main" heraldry bit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mVZLXLaidjQ
Has anyone ever tried this to make bits and models?

>>55131986
>the super-secretive guys would have some skeletons in the closet

Good luck.

>>55124620
Is that a Kaleb Daark model you based that upon?

>>55131999

D&D is an RPG, Warhammer is a tabletop war game. You can have entire campaigns in D&D without any combat or fighting that are just heavy in story and roleplaying. Warhammer is all war all the time. You don't roll a d20 to see if you can sweet talk somebody into doing something for you in Warhammer, you just fucking shoot them. Warhammer still has lots of story and lore but it's confined to the books and video games whereas you can play out the stories and lore in D&D.

As for the commission painting you asked about earlier, it's really not worth it unless you are talented enough to win miniature painting competitions. If you aren't competition champion-good your commissions will work out to $10/hr tops.

>>55131999

Consider going to a game store and just asking questions. To give you a quick idea, DnD is about one person building a world and others playing in it. The players each control one character, the World Builder/GM controls everything else, sort of acting like the computer in a video game RPG if that's more familiar to you.

Warhammer/Warmachine/Infinity is about players commanding an army. Typically a 1v1 or matched team number game, each player pushes around dozens of minis on a battlefield.

Morrowind vs Starcraft if you're so inclined.

>>55128819
Digging the one on the left. It's skull face looks like the marine himself slapped the paint on himself, especially around the edges. Has a ghost recon feel to it, especially with the pouches and grenades.

>>55129379
that's more bone than yellow, which I've already dabbled with. They look really good though, love the use of verdigris!

>>55131425
I have neither airbrush nor spray-can, only brushes. Thanks for your advice though, I'll see if I can cook something up!

>>55128653
>At least with GW you get a consistent quality
you haven't been doing this very long have you?

>>55128660
do you mean hex bases? cause you can just buy those.
If you mean hex patterns on a base just check out the various companies that do infinity bases or base toppers for them (zen terrain, antenociti, micro arts studio) and Anvil Industry also has base toppers with hex pattern tiles on them.

>>55131163

Thanks! No Forgeworld though, the legs are Victoria Miniatures and I sculpt the backpacks myself.

>>55128704
>they are like sub-heroclix board game piece levels of quality,
have seen them IRL? they are definitely better than hero clix in any case.
Where bones shines is when it comes to ogre sized or bigger models. Those kind of models generally don't lose a lot of detail, but are much cheaper in bones.
For regular infantry sized 28mm minis I'd rather pay some more for the metals though. Unless you want to use the minis as stautes in scenery or something. Then bones is nice again.

>>55132003

Ok, I see what you're getting to. I think I'm going to take the top two shields off the turret and rearrange them on the chassis intermixed with stowage, maybe that will find a sweet spot.

>>55130268
Thin your bones

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>>55132068
>Has anyone ever tried this to make bits and models?
Yeah.
Blue Stuff is fine if you only want 1-2 casts' worth, but the molds degrade rapidly. It's great for quickly mirroring parts while you're doing tanks and shit, or for working with Green Stuff and Milliput. On the other hand, most resins will blow the mold almost immediately, and you can't use it effectively on a hot summer day.

For small-run pressmold stuff, I prefer Alumilite Mold Putty. It's a two-part silicone, mixes a lot like green stuff. It's great for really quick-and-dirty molds or pulling up detail, and works.. acceptably with Milliput. Sadly it's not stiff enough to play well with Green Stuff or Procreate. Most resins seem to handle it okay, you just have to be careful with the pours. It's also not that great for bigger parts - top size for the mold putty is ~a shooter marble before it starts curing to fast to cast accurately. The "putty" texture means it can have some trouble pulling really fine, crisp detail.

For longer runs or bigger parts I use platinum-cure liquid silicone. Alumilite high-strength is best for "face" molds - one-part molds for bricks, bases, barrels, that kind of thing. The molds can handle some pretty intense undercuts and still come out okay; I've successfully recast Micro Armor cottages and houses in one-piece Alumilite HS molds. It's also really, really low-viscosity initially, which means it picks up intricate detail well.
Smooth-on "Oomoo" and Alumilite Quick-cure are pretty much the same shit. Oomoo is tougher so you can make more pulls, ALQC is a little less-viscous. On the other hand, Smooth-on's stuff is a 1:1 by volume mix, making it easier for a beginner, while you need a scale for Alumilite. They both do good two-part molds.

I did a molding and casting tutorial a while back on my blog (even alluding to the site is tipping the spam filter for some reason); I've got another expanded one on the way that I'll post here in a couple weeks.

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>>55132379
(cont, ran out of characters)
The small bubbles on that turret still embarrass me. That's part of the update. For now, though, you could go hit up "Between the Bolter and Me" (one of the guys who did the Pilgrym project last year), he has an >excellent< tutorial on using pressure flasks and vacuum to get fewer bubbles.

>>55128660
Uh, the grocery store down the street sells hexagonal silicone hot-mats with a tight, ~3mm hex-pattern in them you could probably use to pattern putty on the bases. Costs like $1-4 per depending on site. Pic related.

>>55124620
If that is Kaleb Dark i will shit my pants

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>>55132417
it's an old games day mini

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Banglets

>>55131440
Just buy some mdf ruins and a bunch of trees off eBay

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>>55132662
That flamer/Plasma Pistol hack on the Johnny in the back actually looks pretty decent. Next time I'd cut down the sides of the plasma coil to line up a little better with the flamer profile though, as-is it's a bit of a jump.

In other news, my Mordheim/Frostgrave rats are getting some more black powder support. Gun's based on a Kroot rifle with added stock/barrel. Currently sculpting a new arm for homeboy here - he used to be a "Big Nhads" mutie for Blood Bowl. Pretty proud of the fur effect, although that bracer emblem needs to go and I still need another layer on his shoulder.

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>>55132894
And a pikeman to go with him. 1e Undead plastic gorget for a helmet, Pirates of the Spanish Main coin as a shield, and a few other fun bits.

>>55130268
>>55130283

I recommend you grant him the Emperor's Peace.

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>>55132894
Thanks for the advice! Enjoy converting weapons but pretty amateur at it.

>>55127903
is he a gardener?
why the green finger?

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>only camera is attached to my phone
>only source of internet access is my phone (RIP CPU heat sink)
How do I take less shitty phonecam WIP photos on a tight budget?

Also have some elves

>>55133435
What phone u got famalam?

>>55130233
I like it anon.
Im all about putting the cool in tacticool

>>55133464
iPhone 6. It was a gift, pls no bully
As far as I can tell, the on-system photo editing is limited to cropping and color/light filters.

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Working on a new Archon for my Dark Eldar. I like the top half I've got here, especially as he lies about how he used to be an Aspect Warrior, but don't like the legs and base. I've only glued it lightly as a place holder so I can remove it easily enough, any recommendations as to what would make a good bottom half?

I originally used the arms/head/back banner on the regular Archon model, but it looked a bit underwhelming, I wanted something a bit more dynamic.

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Working on my Kharn. Still haven't added any blood.

>>55133582
I use a 7, I just hold my minis and try to angle them nicely against the best background I can find, of course it means I can only do one at a time and my fingertips are always in the photo, but at least the miniature itself looks alright

>>55133922
Looking good. However I'd try to give his arm a more fleshy tone. Right now it's very similar to the colours used in the skulls

>>55126674
Base model is a Lord-Castellant, but the various bits are from all over the place.

>>55133351
Somehow his finger broke off so I had to make a new one with greenstuff.


>>55131620
Any Primaris Marine I am going to be making into Lamenters. So basically my whole Dark Imperium set.

>tfw you have that one bit you really like but it looks awkward on anything you put it on

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>>55124955
Shitty pic because of it being dark out, but this was primed in Rustoleum Painter's Touch. Went double retard with it to see how thick it would get. It's nice stuff.

>>55131255
You've got some options; polystyrene doesn't need superglue in the first place, so if you're doing GW kits, model glue is the way to go. If you need to glue metal or resin, you can use 2 part epoxy; you need to hold the part in place while the stuff sets up, but it works. if you absolutely need to use superglue, you could try gel; less likely to vaporize (a mask and respirator would eliminate exposure, too).

>>55134714
>mask and respirator
GLOVES and respirator. Coffee hasn't kicked in yet, sue me.

What kind of glue is best for basing with sand?

I've got plastic glue/cement and craft glue on me.

>>55119601
>>55119585
I really like this scheme. I kind of want to steal it...

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>>55121851
If you're an airbrushtard like me, you might like my salamanders. I recently finished my whole army. Did it in a few days...

>>55134808
I use PVA glue, does just fine

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Night of firsts for me.

First HQ/single model completed and first attempt at basing. I don't have any of the colours I want for the sand so this is how it'll stay for now. Tried to use some Fuegan Orange shade near the orange crystals to simulate lighting but it doesn't seem to have worked (Will be painting over it anyway).

The only part I really hate is the mouth. Too much Nuln Oil. I still have to have a go at highlighting (yellow for the green and grey for the black) but I think I can call this one table ready.

Thoughts?

>>55134898
Airbrush seems like cheating desu, and everyone does it now. Sometimes I wonder why I spend hours and hours and hours with a brush (I'm not even that good) and then some bro shows up with a really smooth army he sprayed in a couple of sittings.

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>>55135160
I am doing a project with a mate of mine.

I have spent many sittings just getting colours right; he undercoated everything one colour, added skin and straps, and then washed it all.

It's lazy. It looks lazy. Everything is essentially monotone.

But he has a table ready force, and I have a bunch of half finished models.

I suppose it all comes down to what you want out of the miniatures and the hobby really.

>>55135160
>Airbrush seems like cheating desu
It's just another tool. If you can't use it properly it's not gonna look good either.

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My bloat drone. About 10 days work in total. Love these models. Biggest mistake was assembling the entire model then realising I need to snip the guns off to paint under there. Was very messy as I used plastic glue

>>55135160
An airbrush is a tool like a normal brush. Giving a model a basecoat with an airbrush is not exactly hard, it saves a gigantic amount of time though. If you realy want to make the best use of an airbrush it will take long AND you still want to use a normal brush. Use both for what they are best at, depending on your skill level (and no, an airbrush is not autopilot for good looking models, if you don't know how to make use of it, it can fuck your models up too).

Help me /WIP/.
I've got a couple dozen Guardsmen to rebase now that I've found the amazing world of texture paint. I've got the supplies, I've got the new bases, I'm just having trouble getting them off of the old ones. A few snap off.easy but the last couple have either had me mangle the feet with a knife or stop at the risk of snapping a leg. Is there any good trick to removing an already painted model from a plastic base without ruining it?

I don't know why but I absolutely hate putting together models. Especially fucking finecast.

>>55135354
You could cut the parts of the base off where your model is glued. As in, cut two circles out around his feet where the model is standing.

This will leave you with the base plastic still under his feet to file off afterwards.

For those of you who have painted Gravis armor like Inceptors, is it better to paint the helmet before gluing everything together? Seems like it'd be a pain to do otherwise.

>>55135354
You could whip out a pair of clippers and cut around the feet of the model. If you leave the disk of plastic under the feet where they were glued, you can just hide that with texture paint and since you are still doing plastic on plastic it should be just as good a bond as you had before.

>>55135379
>Especially fucking finecast.
Cause finecast is crap.
Every single other resin mini, even from the smallest garage operation imaginable, was better quality than the Finecast models I have.

>>55135400
only gravis stuff i've painted is aggressors and you have to assemble them with the head inside, it makes it awkward to get to and I hate it, if you can get away with leaving the heads separate on the inceptors you should go for it.

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>>55135408
>>55135390
That is what I had to do for my Master of Ordinance. The other officers snapped off fine but I felt like I was going to lose his ankle. Guess I've got a week of mangling bases ahead of me. At least boots are easy enough to repaint!

>>55135472
Finished product looks fine though.

Another thing you could try would be to remove the flock and sand from your bases. Depending on how well you glued them down you may be able to scrape/cut that off with a hobby knife.
Not sure if that is gonna be less work though.

>>55135501
Then I run into trying to spread the basing around their feet without it looking like their boots are caked in litetal shit. I'll try both ways and see what ends up easier. Thanks.

>>55135424
Thanks man. Yeah, I can already tell gluing the Gravis Captain together was a mistake, but at least the Inceptors have the cowl as part of their jump pack, so I can just leave that off and paint it seperately

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bit of a long shot, but I was wondering if anyone with the old Bret field trebuchet model could help me out with some rough distentions before I make my own.

Cheers

>>55135300
Shiny soulless eye.

How'd you do it?

>>55135556
Dimensions.

>>55126120
>my Chimera chassis actually has a suspension

You will tell me how you did this and you will tell me NOW.

>>55135556
>before I make my own.
Have you considered looking into historical miniatures?
They're usually much cheaper than Fantasy and Sci-Fi stuff, cause the market for them is bigger.
You may be able to just buy one.

Actually I just did a quick google search and found this
http://norbaminiatures.com/es/bretones/21-trebuchet-breton.html

>>55135114
Maybe a wash of Beil-Tan on the greens and a little more oil on the legs. I like the color choice though reminds me of zbots in the best way. Happy painting brother!

>>55135683
Mate that's pretty much perfect. Thanks for that.

>>55133922
Axe and base skull mouldlines visible, like the paint job and head swap though. The vein on his bare arm could use some highlighting and the skull over the crotch seems kinda muted compared to the armor trim, might need more gold.

>>55131255
Define "allergic". Obviously you shouldn't touch it, but is it the fumes? "Well-ventilated area" is not a suggestion, it's a requirement.

>>55130924
Love it, seems simple and immersive.
>>55130991
I'm a fan of snow on trees but you'd have to slap some on everything else as well, otherwise they would stand out too much on the snowless setting.
>>55131011
That would be cool, I have some scenics from a croatian site which I've painted only on the outside, always wanted to do the detailed interiors some justice too as they're truly well done.

>>55135634

I took parts from a 1/48 jagdtiger and mangled (and I do mean mangled) them until they fit inside the track guard. I had to lay the track pieces over them which worked ok, though I think it would have gone better if I had run a strip of plasticard over the sprocket and road wheels to serve as an anchor point.

>>55135160
thats like saying brushes are cheating because you paint with your fingers. if you arent good, yea an airbrush will make you better, just like how washes are extremely good at giving units depth, compared to just a basecoat. and it barely takes any time as well. If you aren't good at painting, learn, and get better, and you'll be able to paint better than any airbrusher.

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Just finished magnetizing and assembly. Still a few mold lines, but fuck this thing is a beast.

I have another fucker to clean and assemble too.

>>55135160
Airbrushes are great for priming, basecoats and simple gradients and not a lot else. Those salamanders look shit under any kind of close scrutiny. If all you want is a table ready force then sure you can blitz stuff, but it's not high end painting.

>>55137137
I can't really tell because of picture quality but they don't look so bad to me. Plasmas look great maybe a little brush painting would breath a little more life into them.

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Alright, my second chad ready for basing (and fixing right hand). r8 m8s
Also if I wanted to get a paint to do highlights which should I pick.

>>55137702
>Also if I wanted to get a paint to do highlights which should I pick.

Is that Caledor Sky? I would highlight with Calgar Blue. There's also the Chronus Blue dry paint, which is even lighter, but I would caution you against thinking drybrushing that on is going to *improve* this model.

>>55137781
It's macragge blue, my shitty camera makes it look a lot lighter.

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>>55131215
You just reminded me about the ogre army backlog I have that I dropped once AoS came out and have never be bothered to ever start on.

>>55130756
>>55130923
Less talk, more raiding!

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>>55135501
This is a quick comparison of old vs new, and how it might be obvious why I want to redo them. Knifing might not be the worst idea...

>>55124955

Not everything is aerosol cans is suitable for primer. You want something with a "bite". Meanwhile, primer paint can come in regular bottles to be applied with a brush or airbrush.

That said, GW Primer is actually one of the best miniature primers on the market.

>>55126414

Looks alright mate. Ork stuff is very forgiving.

>>55138601
>GW primer is some of the best
What the fuck? Under what condition? Maybe if you live in a desert, I have never seen another primer clump and fuzz as easily as GW primers. You're retarded.

I haven't done warhammers in many years. I like watching pics of good painted figures, but 90% of the pics in these threads are of big shoulderpad-guys. It is a bit boring.

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>Want to make this
>Play snakebites
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
its too FUCKING COOL

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Mostly done. Just need to base and do company striping

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Started this last night. So many friggin lights and vials of stuff here I'll have to paint.

>>55139057
Come back in October, I'm buying like 200 dollars worth of Eldar Craftworlds around 7th

>>55139057
90% of the models sold are shoulderpad guys.

>>55130756
>>55130923
>>55138147
>After much consideration, White King Yaroglek has decided to grant the fief of Essen to White King Yaroglek.

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>>55139057
>I like watching pics of good painted figures, but 90% of the pics in these threads are of big shoulderpad-guys. It is a bit boring.

/WIP/ is about what we're working on, and a mighty big chunk of what goes on as a corollary to that is helping new people who blunder in here polish their skills. Right now, the starter sets for Warhammer 40,000 involve good guys with big sholuder pads vs. bad guys with big shoulderpads and the hordes of gross disease-things they herd into battle in front of them. So, even if we ignore that one flavour or another of Space Marine has been the top seller for the last 30 years, new guys have a pretty good likelihood of coming in here with questions about big shoulderpad guys; I mean, who wants to be the Panzees, anyway?

As far as well-painted figures... you might be able to satisfy your itch at http://www.coolminiornot.com/

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>>55139057
if you just want to see cool figs go to coolminiornot, or puttyand paint

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Best dread with bad paintjob coming through

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A horde/legion of zombies for KoW

>>55140275
>bad
Just need moar highlights and some nice base dude

>>55141139
I cannot do highlight on this army and i must scream

>>55139652
Did you use white primer?

>>55141279
>Did you use white primer?

Judging by the colour of the rim around the base, I suspect that he must have.

>>55120977
>-- Mk VI armour (usually) has chapter on the right with studded pauldron on the left.
Or
Studded pauldron on left. Squad type on right, chapter symbol on greaves.

>>55141279
Yep.

Also fuck corax white, for real. Unreliable bullshit always tries to goop up in detail or dry on the way to the miniature.

>>55139652
Why does white primer do this?

noob question, what is the brown or tan stuff used to model?

I have greenstuff and I'm planning out my first full piece, armature and all and the vids I'm seeing generally have greenstuff over the armature the slap some tan stuff on to shape and detail. I've only done repairs and little additions with the greenstuff so far. Full model seems like they next logical thing, ya.

So- what is best stuff for detail modeling detail on a greenstuff base?

why is that better than greenstuff?

do you let the greenstuff dry and cure or do you just work wet on wet?

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>>55141569
Brown and tan stuff serve the same purpose as Greenstuff, but have slightly different material properties.

While Green stuff has memory retaining properties (as in it tries to pull itself back into the original shape) that make moderate sculpting and certain softer details easier, Brown stuff on the other hand dries up to be much harder than green stuff, and is able to hold sharper edges much better.

Tan stuff is likely either inbetween or further into the extreme end of either brown or green stuff. Most likely it's closer to Milliputs standard, yellow/ tan stuff that is much harder than brown stuff and handles more closely like actual clay than the stretchy epoxy putty.

Hello /tg/, I won't be flooding your thread with my images anymore, but I very much need advice on painting a pure black robe. I tried highlighting eshin grey on a jet black robe and I thought it looked atrocious (the flat black looked out of place on a model that was washed and highlighted with most of the surfaces having a gradient from dark recesses to bright edges). Is there a particular for achieving black-looking textures without resorting to flat black with grey highlights? I am attempting to colour it a very dark grey that will seem off-black, then ink it once and highlight with slightly darkened eshin grey, but I've never actually tried anything like this before and don't want to make my model too thicc with unneeded corrective layers.

>>55142104
> Is there a particular for achieving black-looking textures

I'm a retard, I omitted the word technique.

>>55141569
Like this guy said
>>55142036
Ive worked with both green and brown stuff, green stuff is better for cloths, skins, and gap filling while brown stuff is EXCELLENT for doing weapons, scales, sharp edges, and such

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>>55141369
>Studded pauldron on left. Squad type on right, chapter symbol on greaves.

The right leg greave is usually the location of the campaign badge, but that's really a later (2nd Edition and onwards) development.

>>55134898
What did you use for the base color on those?
Im trying to do some Chad marine Salamanders right now and i cant find a decent looking color.

Should I go with the "Citadel suggested paint scheme" for red armor (Base: Mephiston Red, Shade: Nuln Oil, Layer: Wild Rider Red)? Any good alternatives if not? I'm painting World Eaters by the way.

>>55142862
That's going to get you a really bright red color depending on how liberally you use the Wild Rider.

I think Khorne Red would fit better, the red you're describing is more of a Blood Angels look.

>>55143009
Alrighty, that was the other option I had in my head, thanks

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>>55142104
>>55142118
>eastern indonesian optometrist exchange
>doesn't want to bother anyone with glasses

New thread?

>>55142036
>>55142130
thanks. how much experience/practice do you think it takes combining the two? I need to buy some brown or several to experiment with but should I avoid any serious modelling until I've done more using them together?

I'm having a serious lack of ideas, practice ideas, and this one idea that involves a custom base I only have one of.

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Still more bones. This guy was good skin practice.

>>55143402
this turned out really nicely.

>>55137093
My next project. How hard was it?