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WIP - Work in Progress General

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Thread replies: 327
Thread images: 92

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/wip/ rises like a phoenix from the ashes!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44 [Embed]

>Previous Thread >>55017000
>>
production line painting necron is a fucking blast
>>
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>>55040861
What have you guys done today? I finished the armor and the Bones/horns on my Death Guard models, and I started on the metal parts on the models. Still have a way to go on them. Thoughts?
>>
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Did the grunt work on the forgefiend. Trying to decide how best to handle the red glow from the chest vents, as well as what, if anything to do with the exhaust bits.
>>
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I also snuck home for a bit while at work to make progress on a second scrapyard recovery project raptor. They're surprisingly easy. I think I'm gonna highlight and base as a squad.

>>55041651
Looking good so far. I like the colors you've chosen the death guard player I hang out with does his similarly - much superior to the studio color choices IMO.
>>
>>55041651
On a second look, you do have some serious mold line action going on (plasmagun, leg plate, head, backpack ridge) make sure you check for those.
>>
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Exorcists Primaris Captain wip
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>>55041846
Never noticed the exhausts on the FF had all those screaming faces before!
>>
>>55042139
Very nice freehand.
>>
>>55042139
very nicely painted lenses
>>
Is greenstuff normally flexible when it cures?

I think I broke it.
>>
>>55042247
>>55042276
Cheers, pleased with how its going so far. For the love of god though, if you're going to attempt this mini, don't glue it to the base before you paint the cloak inner.. I'm finding it impossible
>>
>>55042363
it can flex a little bit, bit thicker pieces should be quite stiff.
>>
>>55042199
Right? The forgefiend is pretty neat as a model. Lots of weird, interesting stuff going on. All my chaos stuff is salvaged from someone else's mangled trash, so I'm pretty happy with how its coming along. There's actually some sprue bits left in places I still need to cut and paint over - managed to catch most of the mold lines that had been left under one of the many failed undercoats.

Chaos players - how do you guys usually paint those tubed half-meat-half-pipe things that are on every 6e+ chaos unit?
>>
>>55042394
Thanks.

I'm thinking I used too much yellow. That appears to slow down the cure time.
>>
When your painting in sub assemblings for stuff like space marines/cadian/tau etc, What do you use to glue it all together when your done, I've been told you can't use plastic glue so what do you use, is super glue really good enough to hold on arms?.
>>
>>55042139
I didn't actually even realize you'd freehanded that exorcist symbol until another anon commented on it. Top props.
>>
>>55042460
Plastic glue is fine, just scrape it off the glue areas with a knife to expose bare plastic, and don't use loads, else it'll spill over onto your paint.
>>
>>55042460
I like loctite gel superglue. Nice bottle, easy to apply the right amount, great hold, has a few seconds to play around with it before it dries.

Itll actually hold respectably well paint to paint, but obviously scrape clean a plastic contact surface for best results.
>>
>huge internal debate to ditch my idea of using candy apple red
Its just such a bitch to do with a brush, and on top of that, its hard to make it look better than just ok. And a pain in the ass to fix mistakes on. My scheme was the red on helmets shoulders knees and elbows and a gray for the rest with HQs and elites in all red. I just finished my first squad and was planning on stripping and trying again now that I got the hand of blend highlighting.
>>
>>55042535
>>55042545
Is it that easy?, I never scrapped away paint before.
>>
>>55042460
I once painted sub assemblies and then put everything together with super glue, but a few years later pieces started coming off.

Now I paint the sub assembly and use a knife to scrape away paint/primer on the area I plan on gluing, then I use plastic glue on that area to get the pieces together. Haven't had any issues with parts falling off.
>>
>>55042566
Paint isn't thick (at least it shouldn't be), scrape the edge of your blade across the arm joins etc and it should come off in a thin layer. Just be gentle, sometimes it can take a few goes to get all the layers off.

>>55042487
Cheers, I find freehand works best reductively, i.e. rough out the shape in basecoat colour and go back with the armour base colour to tidy it up before doing the black lines.
>>
>>55042460
I use plastic glue. I assemble them with tack to prime in their pose, and the tack will cover the areas that need to be glued from being covered in paint. Even then, since I usually forget to leave spots of bare plastic on my bases scraping the paint off works just fine.
>>
>>55042566
>>55042580
>>55042600
Yeah, I just tried it now on a test model, thought it be harder, I got a question though, on Army green what do I use to shade it, dark green, black, or dark brown?.
>>
>>55042600
Nice. I've got some deathwatch on hold until their book comes out and I'm planning on getting adventurous with some of the chapter choices, so I'll remember that.
>>
>>55042139
If you don't mind my asking, What's your recipe for that red?
>>
>>55042687
Khorne red basecoat
nuln oil wash in recesses
Wazdakka red edge highlight
1:1 mix WD red / white extreme edge highlight

It's basically what Duncan does in this vid
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dttCzGy4sQw
>>
>>55042737
Thanks boss. Looks excellent so far
>>
>>55042621
Any of those would work, try a test model and see which you like best!
>>
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Working on a Confrontation Tech Baron. The combi-bolter will get hazard stripes when it's done. I think the chest plate will end up in standard steel metal although I'm also considering white for that soviet cosmonaut look.
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>sit down to paint
>prepare work space
>get the wet pallete ready
>mix some paint on the pallete
>grab a model
>put some paint on the brush
>about to touch the brush onto the model
>suddenly arm feels heavy and brushing motion feels awkward, which means brain has gone LOLNOPE and decided I can't really be bothered to paint right now
>move everything to the side and do something else
FUCK
>>
>>55042924
Nice blends my man

>>55042954
I usually go do basecoating when I derp like that
>>
How do I git gud at painting without dedicating time or effort?
>>
>>55043008
You don't, practice is essential for painting skills.
Best you can do without effort is spend money to have someone paint for you.
>>
>>55043008
Be talented, which you aren't if you are asking how to git gud. Ipso facto ur fukd kid
>>
>>55043008

Post where you at now.
>>
>>55042924
Now that's a classic model. A little jealous.

You could go white with maroon trim, for the classic adeptus mechanicus look.
>>
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>>55042924
>that yellow
>>
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3 (mostly) down, 7 to go
Man, I fucking love those models.
>>
Slapping together my CSM bike lord. Crazy dude who pops wheelies off cliffs to cut shit up dual-wielding the Murder Sword and a chainsword. It's not entirely serious. I've narrowed it down to these choices:

- Ghost rider-y expy with a skull. One has no lower jaw and is indented itno the power armour, the oner has a jaw and is outside and fully visible.
- Bretonnian knight head, maybe a crazed Don Quixote reference (though with swords instead of a lance. Why did they get rid of Power Lances anyway?)
- Chaos Termie head shaped like a rhino, named accordingly. Would fit his design.
>>
>>55043743
Gorgeous stuff. I'm so tempted to field 10 but I gotta see the TS codex first. I might not have enough points for them and enough sorcerers.
>>
>>55043769
Those are worries for not-so-far-in-the-future me.
>>
>>55043811
Fair enough yeah. Maybe it's my problem though as I'm trying to stuff in at least 2 ExSorcs, Ahriman (all 3 on disc) with Magnus on top of a second SO squad. Might be in over my head.
>>
How should I paint zombies? I was thinking of basecoating everything with nurgling green, but I am not sure where to go from there.
>>
>>55043743
Amazing looking

>>55043744
DOOMRIDER
Captcha: select all vehicles
>>
>>55043993
I do have the smiling DP head but it's far too huge to mount on power armour. It looks comically huge, like a big head cheat in an old vidya.

I'm 99% going with the rhino chaos termie head. I love those helmets but I missed two opportunities to use them since I thought of better ideas. If you can tell me of a way to convert a doomrider head though, I'll seriously consider it.
>>
>>55043945
I'll probably end up not using my Magnus that much or mostly just for 'competitive games' at my local club. Having already played a few games, he seems too strong right now.
It's gonna be Ahriman and some Sorcs for me.
>>
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>>55043744
Here's an old pic of my nurgle bikers. Termi heads are a poor fit on marine torsos
>>
>>55044058
what about a terminator sorcerer?
>>
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>>55043744
>Slapping together my CSM bike lord. Crazy dude who pops wheelies off cliffs to cut shit up dual-wielding the Murder Sword and a chainsword. It's not entirely serious. I've narrowed it down to these choices:
>- Ghost rider-y expy with a skull. One has no lower jaw and is indented itno the power armour, the oner has a jaw and is outside and fully visible.
>literally Doomrider
Do that shit
NANANANANANANANANA
>>
>>55044058
Fair enough yeah that's what I'm thinking. Ahriman will be the de-facto leader of my army with the occasional GUEST STARRING: BIG RED.

Still gonna be buying him anyway, I want him for the collection/painting, but it's fun to watch him wreck face sometime.
>>
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Hello there, thought i'd share my terminator lord's familiar.
>>
>>55044124
Most are yeah due to the huge tusks but the rhino-like head is fairly conservative.

>>55044244
Which skull would be doomrider? Doesn't he have an actual face? with flames and horns? I don't have those features sadly. I'd just be painting his skull glowing red/orange like it's a really hot metal skull.
>>
>>55042971
ty

>>55043152
Thanks for the suggestion, although I think the maroon might clash with the orange? On the other hand metal seems like such a safe choice, a bit boring.

>>55043201
Thanks, although I think the camera is hiding some of the patchiness.
>>
How can you tell what consistency is right for your paint? How thin is too thin? I'm very new to this painting thing and I don't really know what I should be trying for.
>>
thinking about doing a bright pink slaaneshi warband, would white primer be best to use? never see people use white primer, only black
>>
>>55044367
It's too thin if it gushes out your brush or doesn't cover efficiently
It's too thick if you have to scrub the paint out, it doesnt flow out the brush, or paint brush marks are visible
Just use the duncan method until you get more comfortable -- put your paint on the palette and add 'a touch' of water, thats usually enough
>>
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>>55044369
Definitely. You can get good coverage with darker colours over a light undercoat relatively easily, but going the other way is asking for all sorts of trouble.
>>
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>>55044544
After 10,000 year I've finally finished painting, it's time to conquer Earth!

These are my Plague and Enforcers for Deadzone, I can't believe I've had all this since 2013 and haven't painted them until this year.
>>
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Getting stoned and painting my very early wip Grey Hunters. This is the life boys.
>>
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How do you even drill this?
>>
>>55044701
with a drill
In the end
>>
>>55044622
G-gary?!
>>
>>55044769
The spike is in the way
>>
>>55044534
Alright, I think I understand. I've been doing it the way duncan does, so I guess I'll just keep at it. Practice makes perfect, right?
Thanks, anon
>>
>>55044795
cut it off then stick it on again
>>
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>>55044795
Whoops, I'm an idiot.
Maybe cut the spike off here and reglue after
>>
>>55044863
>>55044857
hey good idea thanks
>>
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>>55044795
>The spike is in the way

I usually start drilling barrels by gouging a small nick in the end with a sharp hobby knife. Then, I move in with the pin vise, use the nick as "guide" for the drill bit. When I'm drilling larger holes, like those for counter-sinking magnets, most of the work isn't done with the vise, but actually by scraping around the inside of the hole with the blade of the hobby knife. Perhaps for this job, you could try doing most of the work with the knife like that.

The other possibility is to (obviously) cut the spike off. If you prefer your burna with the spike on it, be very careful when you cut it off, drill yer barrel, and glue the spike back on again when you are done!
>>
>>55044701
Come in from an angle, don't drill too deep.
>>
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What should I do to this ogryn bone'ead conversion's head? None of the other conversions will have that big metal plate, but I feel like I should do a bit more.
>>
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Hi WIP, I need some help.

I forgot to design my base before priming and the models are already painted a fair bit.

I used PVA glue and super glue on the base.

The base is so smooth that I don't think I can paint it without a primer. What should I do?
>>
>>55045038
Rough up the surface with a file or emery board.
>>
>>55045096

I don't think that's really doable, the surface is rather fragile and I would destroy the structure.

If nothing else works I'd have to do that, though
>>
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Don't even know if this is even the right place to post this, but is this scheme completely awful? I want to do either a red or blue scheme with a differently colored backpack and pauldrons, but I'm not sure if this looks right.
>>
>>55044701

carefully cut off the tooth, drill, glue it back on.
>>
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It's me again and now finishing my squad with the Primaris Marine Sergeant. I wanted to actually make him look cooler so I tried to green stuff a tabard for the first time, how did I do? Also seeing as I am playing Lamenters, all my sergeants are going to be equipped with Power Swords. Should I model him to look like he is holding one or instead make it look sheathed?
>>
>>55045038
Brush on primer of course.
>>
>>55045155
Sheathed is probably easier than slinging a bolt rifle.

Not bad on the gs, but it looks a bit off to me that it clings to both legs when he's got such a wide stance.
>>
>>55044962
Skull or two mounted on the horns?
>>
>>55044962
bionic eye?
>>
>>55045201
My mistake, turns out "BA chapters" for Intercessor's use chainswords, not power swords. Also I agree on how it looks odd, just unsure how I can go about fixing it since it's dry.
>>
any guides on how to do scenery? I need to do a couple of forest and would like to make them on the cheap side.
>>
>>55043008
Buy an airbrush and abuse the fuck out of colour gradients, stencils, washes and drybrushing. So long as you only do stuff which is easy to do with those things, you need only put a relatively small amount of effort and time into it and get some pretty impressive results.
>>
>>55045155
Sheathed is the way real chads roll. Chads dont need to wave their swords around until the enemy actually needs some stabbing, unlike them manlets.
>>
>>55045197

I've heard they don't work like they're "supposed" too, any specific brand you can recommend?
>>
>>55045155
>Also seeing as I am playing Lamenters, all my sergeants are going to be equipped with Power Swords. Should I model him to look like he is holding one or instead make it look sheathed?

If you're going to play Lamenters using the rules for Blood Angels, you can't take power swords on Intercessor Sergeants; you can opt for a chainsword instead.
>>
>>55042440
I paint the exterior a pale fleshy colour and the inside iron.
>>
>>55042924
Nice blending, love the pants and gun, post when it's done.
>>
>>55045355

Make an armature out of wire. Look for some soft copper wire which you can easily bend with your fingers. Take two pieces and twist them together with the ends loose. Then take another two and do the same. Twist the two parts together around each other, forming a branch which splits into two and then into four. Do the same again and then twist the two branches together. Do everything again and then twist the two thick ends together to form a trunk. Bend the branches until they look about right.

Then make a big blob of epoxy putty (milliput yellow will be fine for this bit) and use it to stick the armature to a piece of plasticard or something to form the base. Roughly sculpt it into roots going into the ground.

Then you need to skin the armature. Roll out sheets of epoxy putty and wrap them around the wire, pushing it in with a tool. You may need to switch to a better quality putty as you go up to thinner wires (procreate or green stuff will give you the flexibility needed to avoid breakage). Gouge some rough lines into the putty to give a vague impression of bark.

Then texture the surface. There are two options here. Either go over the whole thing with a thin coat of putty carefully sculpting bark texture all over it, or get some crackle medium and mix it with PVA glue. Smear the resulting goop over the surface and try to scratch a few lines into it to start the texture off. Wait for it to dry and it should hopefully crack and look a bit like bark. Seal it with more PVA once it is dry.
>>
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I cut out a piece of the cloth and put more greenstuff back on to make it look like it's folding in on itself from a breeze. I think it looks better now, just need to wait for it to dry then smooth out all the imperfections.

>>55045407
Thanks for that, I was wondering why Battlescribe would only allow me to equip Chainswords.
>>
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Posted in the last thread, but it died before anyone answered.

Are airbrush stencils worth it and which ones would you recommend? Hoping to do some harlequins with them and maybe some stuff for my admech, orks and genestealer cult too. Death ray designs and fallout hobbies seem to have good patterns, but they charge a lot to ship to the UK.

Is cutting your own stencils viable? I've been looking at the Antex Cut Master tool which isn't that expensive...
>>
>>55045138
Try inverting the colors and see if you like it more or less.
>>
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>>55041651
Repainting more lads, its gonna be a longer task than I anticipated and it may be a while till I can play a game of 8th.
Got about 3-4% of the boys repainted, so I guess thats a start, but ive found quality drops if I try and batch paint too much.
>>
>>55045968
How many boyz you got?
>>
>>55045217
He's already got skulls on his name and some belt bits he'll be wearing.

>>55045277
Yeah, I'll probably do this. Right or left?
>>
>>55045995
I dont even know 2bh, last time I played just after 6th ed was released I had about 55-60 table-ready boys in my dreadmob, another 30-40 who had really ropey paintjobs from when I was 13 which I refused to field, and an absolute shitload of semi-painted, semi-built boys that I bought but forgot about after I got distracted by and dragged into FoW.

I might repaint the dreadmob before I finish these guys, so Ive at least got some points to throw down
>>
>>55046074
I'm interested in Orks but the model count is so damn high, I am not sure I'd have the patience to paint all of them.
>>
>>55044244
Well I went for the skull. Admittedly, he looks kinda badass. I'm using a loyalist bike so I had to spruce it up a bit. Big trophy rack on the back and a gargoyle head instead of a searchlight.

Now I need a fluff excuse for my Faming Skullheaded lord. Maybe he has a really heavy stammer when over-excited, was granted a wish by a daemon prince for a job well done. He's quite easily amused so he wanted to ask for a flaming skull tattoo but couldn't get "tattoo" out. So he got a flaming skull.

And now he rages on. And occasionally does cocaine.
>>
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Watchu guys think about this "conversion" for my chapter/company master? I removed the sphere around the helmet. On the Inceptors it has sense cause it closes when they enter from orbit, but on Captains and aggressors? Why do they have it?

How do you think it looks, should I romove it from my aggressors too?
>>
>>55046302
Looks nice but the weapon is very Chaplain-y.
>>
>>55045298
Yeah, sorry I don't really have a solution to offer- I'm not even good with greenstuff. Its not especially bad or anything - id just keep it in advisement for the next one.

At least a holstered chainsword is easy. Just grab one of those mk3 ones from the prospero kit.
>>
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Still trying to decide on what to do with the dead marine on the base. Right now I think it's a bit too weathered but i'm not sure how to dial it back a bit and still make it look like he's been lying in the dirt for a while and really not having a good day.
>>
>>55045798
Oh, Just seeing your second image. Looks much better. Nice fix.
>>
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just finished converting an Emperor's Champion for my first army.
>>
I have some Opaque-Bisq acryllic water based paint. I believe its intended for ceramics/bisque, and was wondering if it was suitable for warhammer models?
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>>55046322
Yeah it's kind of the theme for my chapter it's heavy on chaplains. That mace is supposed to have belonged to the chapter founder who was a chappie. It's a BT successor. What do you think about the hood/cowl being removed?
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Repostan from last thread
Working on a "Space Adventurer" character to use for various sci-if games/RPGs. I want to file the aquila off his chest and replace it with something more sci-fi-y but I'm not quite sure what to put there at the moment, any suggestions? Also I've been thinking about clipping off the magazine on the bolt pistol to make it look less like a normal gun but I'm still on the fence.

also whoever keeps making these threads and then not posting a link in the previous thread better quit being such a fuckboy
>>
>>55046567
Swap torso for the genestealer cultist one.
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>>55046567
>and replace it with something more sci-fi-y but I'm not quite sure what to put there at the moment
I don't think you need to put anything there.
Just leave the armor plate smooth.

That's gonna make the mini look a lot more sci-fi already imo.
>>
>>55046590
Those look pretty good but I don't know how I feel about the corset looking abdomens. I like the scout torsos better but I might greenstuff it to look a little more similar to the genestealer chestplates
>>
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>>55046172
The model count is high for infantry lists yeah, but there other lists that require less painting, which is originally what drew me to the dreadmob, which Ive heard is still viable.
Orks are a shitload of fun though, best soundtrack, best fluff, best accents, you can make all sorts of crazy vehicles and conversions if you have a bit of patience and skill with plasticard.
>>
>>55046637
I thought about that but I don't know about keeping it smooth, I feel like it'll look flat and uninteresting if there's nothing there so maybe I'll put some pec-armor like storm/clone troopers or cadians
>>
>>55045739
Thanks anon, and for leaves?
>>
>>55046693
I wouldn't worry too much about it. You have to make it smooth first anyway, before you can add something else there.
Just take a step back then and look at how you like it.

What kind of head are you going to use btw? Unless you have a completely featureless bowl helmet planned for him a smooth chestplate is gonna look fine balanced against a detailed face/helmet.

Is this for Rogue Stars or Five Parsecs btw? I'm curious what you want to use him for.
>>
>>55046553
I like it a lot, looks more space marine-y
>>
>>55046552
Its Bisq-Stain Opaque acrylic paint from Duncan
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>>55046820
>looks more space marine-y
This.
It's kind of my main issue with Primaris. I don't mind the truescale marine so much, but I don't like all the greebles and round shapes on the armor. Kind of weakens the design imo.

Completely different anon here btw, just jumping into the conversation here.
>>
>>55046897
Agree. I'm mad jelly of dark angels players, since they have access to a wealth of grimdark bits to sprinkle everywhere like carvings, incense burners, candles, etc.

Meanwhile in vanilla marine land its purity seals and tilting shields and that's it.
>>
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>>55044304
Don't worry about it; his actual mini looked pretty bad
>>
>>55046987
>Dooooooomrider
>I do COOOOCAINE

His name is Doomrider, he does cocaine. I'm afraid that's all we know.
>>
>>55046987
>>55047036
Yeah I'm working with a loyalist bike so I'm afraid majority of the detail is going to be in the paintjob, but I'll add a few blades.

Possible fluff is >>55046249
>>
>>55046987
His bike looks tits at least. You could save that sculpt pretty easily with a head and weapon swap honestly.
>>
>>55046813
I'm planning on using a Tempestus Scion head for him, but I don't have any on hand. I'll try the smooth chest and add anything if I don't like it, thanks for the advice.

I don't really have any specific games planned for him at the moment, I just thought it would be a fun little project right now. Are those systems any good? I'll look into them and see if I'm interested.
>>
Painting up a hunting pack of Space Wolves. Is the Fang as a base followed by a layer of Russ Grey good for the coloring, or would Fenrisian Grey be better?
>>
>>55046776
For leaves, get some sponge (dish sponge or bath sponge should be fine) and tear it into rough shapes. Soak in PVA glue to make it nice and tough, then sprinkle with some kind of flock. You can buy leaf-shaped scatter from hobby supply shops, just use generic flock if you aren't too concerned about looks or get a leaf shape cutter from some place like green stuff world and cut little pieces of paper, metal foil or very thin plasticard.
>>
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>>55047425
Russ Grey is darker and looks more like the way SW are depicted in the art. Fenrisian Grey can work if you want a lighter blue though, or if you wanna highlight the Russ Grey. A friend of mine does his in Fenrisian Grey with a light wash of Nuln Oil and a silver trim if you wanna see how that looks.
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>>55047425
The official citadel guide says Russ Grey is between The Fang and Fenrisian Grey. So if you're only going to do two layers, I guess Fenrisian Grey will give you more contrast while Russ Grey will look flatter. If you want a fairly even, realistic scheme, go for Russ Grey. If you prefer a more cartoonish, edge-highlight kind of look, use Fenrisian Grey.
>>
>>55046987
I swear if they ever bring Doomrider I will start a Slaanesh army with an 80s hair metal theme. The bases would look like mountains of cocaine with razor blades and needles. The daemonettes will be done up as groupies.
>>
So I'm working on converting my Karic Acolytes into cultists for my Chaos Warband. Any suggestions for what I should do to make em look a bit more interesting?
>>
>>55047413
>Are those systems any good? I'll look into them and see if I'm interested.
Heard great things about Five Parsecs. Never played it though. I read some of the other FiveCore rules though and they were really well written.
Rogue Stars is super granular, but you only can use a maximum of 6 dudes per crew, so it kind of evens out and should be managable if you don't use more than one gimmick per character. Not for everybody from what I gather though, it sits a bit closer to roleplaying games than most other skirmishes.
There are a few other games like Scrappers that you could use for random sci-fi shenanigans, Andrea Sfiligoi, the guy who wrote A Song of Blades and Heroes (and rogue stars) is currently working on a sci-fi version of SoBaH too. Working title is Harder than Steel.
No idea when that is gonna drop though.

If you want to know more about those games /awg/ can help you out.
>>
>>55047837
Alright, I've looked in /awg/ a couple times but it doesn't crop up often, I'll keep on the lookout for it.
Thanks again for the advice.
>>
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So I'm stuck, I really want to include a sheathed Chainsword but have no idea where it would fit. Normally I would have it hanging off the left hip but the helmet is in the way and it seems a little nonsensical to have it right besides pistol. Any ideas where it could go?
>>
>>55043987
I've had decent results with rakarth flesh base, reikland wash, and an uneven green glaze over everything
>>
>>55047933
If the pouches weren't there, I'd suggest his back underneath the power pack. Slanted at angle, with the handle sticking up to the right.
>>
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How would you make an electrical arc between two antennas? I'm thinking just some zigzaggy wire
>>
>>55048049
What is it for?
And wire seems like your best bet
>>
>>55048029
I wonder if it would be piratical to removes those pouches.
>>
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>>55048064
I'm the cronosfag who's been posting recently, and I want to put some arcs between the antennas that will be poking out of the carapace
>>
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Got a squad of scouts I'm going to use for SWA and Kill Team, they all have snappy nicknames because they're aloof badass cunts, except for the one with the helmet and the boltgun, his name is Dave and he is the designated straight man. I was thinking of painting them as Crimson Fists because I think their cool, but I'm open to suggestions. Anyone got any chapters I should consider?
>>
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>>55048049
I'd just use brass wire, or some such, assuming the antennae are far enough apart. Used it to make pic related a long time back.
>>
>>55048099
If you were good enough with a file, it wouldn't be a problem. The fact that the waist of the model is filled to the brim with things as it is makes it tough to slap another weapon on it.
>>
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After many minor annoyances I pinned these tubby fuckers to their bases
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>>55048156
That's the best vomit I've seen today.
>>
>>55047647
>>55047674
Think I'll go with Fang and Russ. Gonna be darker than standard, but since I don't like how dirty Fenrisian makes it look normally, it'll be fine.
>>
>>55041651
These look absolutely fucking RAD, anon. Love the slightly-weathered look.
>>
>>55042924
>Pin foot then insert into knife holder
Genius.
>>
>>55048492
Looks to me like it's the drill itself, not a scalpel handle.
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so why havent you painted today, guys?
i havent painted in the past month due to depression and not having any chainaxes for my world eaters
>>
>>55048577
laziness and general apathy
>>
>>55048577
Cheer up, mate. I'm sure you'll get your chainaxes eventually.
>>
>>55048606
This
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>>55048029
Well removed the big satchel and worked around to try and make the sword fit. I think I will try and glue a thing paperclip piece over it to make it look like a "handle" that holds it to the waist. At least when I am ready to attach it there.
>>
>>55048577
It's too hot and humid to prime anything
>>
>>55045384
I love Vallejo's. Thinned a bit it works perfectly, and your paint will hold.
>>
>>55048021
Thanks for the advice anon. I will give that a shot, as greyish zombies seem like a good colorscheme.
>>
>>55048924
Something else I've tried is a dark red base, flesh wash, and heavy dark grey drybrush which makes it look like they were burned
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>>55048133
>>55048064
Looks decent I guess
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Went back to painting bones while I wait for some colors to show up from amazon to paint my deathwatch stuff. Gave up 3/4s the way thru on all these models after I scratched the painting itch. I've been having trouble getting good coverage with my flesh tones :/
>>
>>55049361
Did you prime them? I like the metallics on the knight guy.
>>
>>55049429
Yeah they're primed
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>>55048320
What was the worst?
>>
>>55047933

No reason it can't be sheathed on his right hip for a cross-draw. Heft hand is empty, and the pistol is aligned for a right-hand draw.
>>
>>55049361

I'll be darned. I have that exact same rat! Got it at the "Paint And Take" at AnimeFest last weekend.
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About done with my bone lord. Fuck getting those skulls on the knee pads.
>>
How do I get the Gothic numbers transfers successfully onto the rounded space marine knee pads? I've tried a few times and not mater what there is a tone of decal stick up off the model.
>>
>>55046502
Dang. Nice!

What type of chain are you using?
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>>55052301
get some microsol, microset, and sharp blade nigga

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ynXT7FcUxA

if it still wont lay flat make cuts like here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7OEyMMcAd0
>>
>>55052364
I know how to apply decals. And I have tried cutting them. But there isn't much extra space to remove (unlike the shoulder pad decals).
>>
>>55052518

again, microsol and microset.
>>
I'm thinking of starting a small deathrattle skeleton army based on iron age Celtic warriors, I am wondering if anyone knows any good 28mm Celtic shields that could work as the GW skeletons and grave guard aren't exactly the right direction. Also skeleton heads that are lightly armoured would be cool

Hell if you know of any skeleton Celts/barbarians minis that would be awesome

thanks for any input
>>
>>55052777
https://us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/gallic-celts/products/celt-shields-pack-20
>>
>>55052777
Tre Manor has some Draugr in his range.
And either fenryll of fenris (i always confuse them) also has some unded that could work for you.
>>
>>55046502
he looks like a prancing fairy-faggot
>>
How do you do mud effects? Having a hell of a time trying to get it down on my Kriegers.
>>
>>55053421
what are you using to do it? pics?
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Trying to practice highlighting on my first tactical squad. Shit's hard
>>
>>55053543
At work right now (overnight shift concierge, had half a mind to bring a couple minis to work on) but I'm texting out schemes on my Grenadiers. On a couple of them I'm doing white coats with black detail Ala Degenesis Spitaliers.

I want to make it look like they've been wading through the trenches and mud, but I can't figure out how I want to spread it, especially with the white trench coats.
>>
>>55053590
>texting out
Meant trying out
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Hey, I'm trying to work a conversion, and I'm having trouble finding a head.

I'm looking for a head that's kind of like one of these babies. Doesn't need to be exact, but the base model is a turtle, so that's what I'm trying to find. Best I can find is the dragon turtle over at Reaper thus far, but there's no size shown for it, so I want to look around for a comparison before I commit.

Anyone know of any others that might be close?
>>
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So, WIP, I have this model someone gave away to me because he bought it only to get the wings, and now I have a wingless dragon, how could I fix it?
>>
>>55053652

ironback spitter from privateer press hordes in minions gatorman faction
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>>55054004
>>55053652
Seconding an ironback spitter.
>>
>>55053837
J E T T H R U S T E R S
Or send it to me
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>>55053652
>I'm trying to work a conversion, and I'm having trouble finding a head.
How big is it supposed to be?
If something smaller works you can also check out the reaper familiar packs.
If it has to be human sized Reaper has a range of Lizardmen that are tagged Reptus iirc. Among others there should be a human sized warrior turtle.

Then you got the whole Pond Wars range to look at.

Rogue Stars also has a shotgun wielding space turtle.

And Mantic does a whole bunch of different versions of speudo turtles called Teraton. Different sized, even power armored and the Dreadball sponsors pack comes with a Doctor looking one.

Dark Sword also has a bunch of turtles/tortoise characters as anthropomorphic archetypes from D&D style games.

Greebo, Ammon and Bombshell have cartoony takes on TMNTs.
>>
>>55053837
>wingless dragon, how could I fix it?
wingless dragons are just different kinds of dragons.
Call it a wyrm or something and patch the holes in his back.
>>
>>55053837

http://maxmini.eu/big-wings-bits

If you do a bit of googling you can find heaps of 3rd party wings and just improvise
>>
>>55053652
Reaper does some snapping turtlemen in Bones
http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/turtle/latest/77270

>>55053582
Not bad for an early try. I'm a lazy git and drybrush my highlights on, so you're already ahead of me.

>>55053421
>How do you do mud effects? Having a hell of a time trying to get it down on my Kriegers.
Shitty bottom-tier earthtone eye shadows. It's the same shit as the bottom-end weathering pigments and costs like a tenth the price.

>>55049872
I have a few too, I use them as War Dogs in my Skaven warbands.

>>55047201
Fluff's not bad. It's.. honestly pretty close to Doomrider's. Definitely give him some blades though, and maybe a Bloodletter skull as a windscreen. Basically Doomrider would show up, drive into people randomly, do a shitload of combat drugs, and then fuck off after a few rounds. He got merged with Doctor Rockso after a rather memorable thread involving someone's Noise Marine conversions of Dethklok
>>
>>55048133
Jesus that looks dreadful
>>
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Mostly cleaned kill-team for my Deathwatch players, complete with converted DW Librarian.
>>
>>55054689
Love the Librarian! Could you post updates?
>>
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still a lot of work, but maybe i will finish these today...
>>
>>55054192
I'd love to do turtle-based Genestealer cult with the heads from these boys.
>>
>>55054736
Sure, I guess. I'm also quite happy with the librarian - glad it wasn't a waste of the psychic hood. These MK 8 gorgets really add some visual weight.

I've since added another brother to the team, with some patchwork Corvus kit (his player chose Raven Guard).
>>
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>>55054828
Would likely help if I posted Brother not-Johnny.
>>
>>55054798
If you get one of these you could make a mold of the head part and recast it a few times.
I figure you probably wouldn't even have to cut the RS mini apart.

Are you a bad enough dude to start recasting for personal use?
>>
Help me WIP.

I've recently come in to some Death Guard by virtue of my friend only wanting the Primaris from Dark Imperium.

Looking at the paint guide, I hate how cartoony they look, but nothing more so than the guts.

In my opinion, guts shouldn't be pink and purple like the guts you'd see on a childrens cartoon, but brown and distended.

Can any of you paint wizards give me a base-layer-wash scheme to make the guts look red, brown and truly rotten?

Thanks in advance.
>>
P.S) Sorry for the gap between each sentence.

I'm on my phone and it does it for some fucking reason.
>>
>>55048577
I find myself bored of my projects and have few opponents to game against, so there's no pressing need to get an army completed. I need to find a way to break this chain of events.
>>
>>55054667
As I said, a long time ago.
>>
Yo, it seems I'm a retard and ended up priming a model I had set aside to remove the mold lines. Any suggestions on how to fix this? should I just remove the primer with SC or just remove the mold lines and apply some more primer if needed?
>>
>>55055501
Just remove the model lines, then go back and touch it up with a brush-on primer to avoid spackling the rest of the model with a spray.
>>
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Looking to convert Lord of Skulls from fugly tank body to terrifying walker. Hate the look of IK legs and the FW Kytan cause they either look stumpy or too broad for the LoS body.

Any suggestions? Was looking at using Pacific Rim figures' legs or something similar. Would would be the best figure height? 7" or 18"?

Pic related.

Open to suggestions to other legs or casters.
>>
>>55055648
Some Gelgoog variant from Gundam might have the legs you're looking for. Not entirely sure what grade would be a good fit for the Lord of Skulls.
>>
>>55048577
Was on vacation to thailand. Trip started cool but then my brother and I were cursed by nurgle to the point where we decided to leave early without seeing shit. Still assembling space marines and waiting on my spray booth to show up.
I think the chinaman screwed me. He deleted his ebay account but it still says "shipped". It's been 3 weeks I'm losing hope it will come in.
>>
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How's those Death Guard coming along /wip/
>>
>>55055890

Like those pants. How'd you get that colour?
>>
>>55055901
Pretty much just fucked washes on to him. Flesh shade, followed by camoshade on boils and druchii violet on mutated parts. Paint some boils with a bright yellow and then a thin coat of nurgles rot
>>
>>55055932

And the pants? Was thinking of experimenting with washes to get a pale drowned look. Recommendations?
>>
>>55055960
Jokaero orange with firedragon bright. The flesh highlight is wytch flesh.
>>
>>55040861
>Lurk WIP thread for past year
>Is always all space marines all the time
Dont you guys want to paint something else?
>>
>>55056302
clearly not, now post minis or fuck off.
>>
>>55055648
Looks way too normally proportioned for 40k. You NEED some more solid looking legs, otherwise you end up looking like xenotech.
>>
Is it faster to do a over all shade for tau fire warriors or painting into the recess?
>>
>>55056302
a lot of people who post here are just people trying to paint their armies. thats not a big deal. there really isn't a forum or anything that I've found that actually deals with painting everything, not just 40k minis.
>>
>>55056562
>there really isn't a forum or anything that I've found that actually deals with painting everything
There are quite a lot of those. CMON and Lead Adventure come to mind. One is purely a painting based community and the other is basically a free for all for all games and odd hobby projects.
Of course if you just stay within the confines of 40k related wargaming forums you are not gonna see anything else.
It's that weird effect where even though the internet should open the doors to a wealth of new information people tend to tribalism and creating artificial echo bubbles, like on social media.

>>55056302
If you post anything other than the big games it goes largely unnoticed. Minis from smaller games tend to be posted in the respective generals usually.
Sad, but true.
>>
>>55056473
It's faster to slather washes all over. Usually looks like shit though. Tau look better if you paint them cleanly. So doing panel lines by hand is definitely the way to go imo.
>>
>>55056641
>It's that weird effect where even though the internet should open the doors to a wealth of new information people tend to tribalism and creating artificial echo bubbles, like on social media.

The internet is open, but people are not.

All the internet does is concentrate things. Information, groups, opinions, identities. People who have a fringe opinion are usually forced to discard it by interacting with the more normal society around them. But with the internet, they can find groups of like-minded fringe inhabitants and become secure in their views, knowing that their retarded ideas are shared by a group of people, however small.

When it comes to belonging, the brain isn't programmed to tell the difference between a group of 20 and a group of 20 million. As long as it's a group, you can be satisfied. As a result, a lot of nutjobs are finding their ideas 'validated' by the mere fact that there are other nutjobs out there with a keyboard and a modem.
>>
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>>55056302
Here's an ork for you
>>
>>55041651
Lots of mould lines and sprue nubs. Also you can layer up drybrushing to give a more reasonable effect, currently it looks very rushed and messy.
>>
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>>55056721
Well aren't you the most enlightened motherfucker in the room
>>
>>55055648
>>55056459
Agreed, either bulk up the legs or maybe some kind of backpack or cloak to give him more mass (seriously, why does nobody put cloaks on mechs anymore?)
>>
>>55057227
Kek. I considered posting something like that, but it was just too much work.
>/wip/ - shit paintjobs & shallow, unoriginal insights into social dynamics
>>
I need to paint a bunch of red and blue lenses (corvus blackstar), and plan to use this guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArPZVVqA0ew

But I want my red lenses to have an orange tint similair to how they are on gw's store, whereas they would turn pink using this method. How can I achieve the red/orange lenses that I want?
>>
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Only one upper pauldron and both lower pauldrons to finish the torso
>>
>>55057391
It looks like it's escaped from a comic book.
Looks cool though, what is it?
>>
>>55051262
What kit are these parts from? I recognize the Age of Sigmar model as the base. I'd love to try and throw something like this together for my Legion of the Damned army
>>
>>55057642
I dont remember. It was from some game and the miniature included a couple of cards. One if the miniature arms is a minigun and the other one a hand that holds a sword
>>
>>55057382
by using orange?
>>
>>55055890
Badly, HH is dead. And I haven't had any time to make anything this summer, so all my projects are waiting.
>>
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>>55057391
FINALLY YOU GIVE ME INFORMATION, ANON.
ITS A FUCKING JUDICATOR FROM WARZONE

FUCK YOU AND YOUR VAGUE POSTS

It looks pretty, very well done
>>
>>55057391
>>55057642
>>55057709
The symbol on the shoulder looks like that of the Brotherhood from Mutant Chronicles.
>>
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>>55057642
>>55057709
>Looks cool though, what is it?

Those symbols are The Brotherhood from Warzone/Mutant Chronicles; they're like the Inquisition or Ecclesiarchy in 40K.
>>
>>55048577
Because I built my monolith! Only took three fucking weeks to get in.

Chin up mate, the deep blue won't be around forever. Take care of yourself anon, go for a hike or spend sometime with animals/family if you can and treat yourself to a big nice meal
>>
>>55041651
>What have you guys done today?
Sat here, staring at the tracking information for my Bits order. Should be here by the end of the day, then I can start converting me some Minotaurs Primaris with glorious shields, chain-glaives and bitchin helmets.
>>
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>>55054004
>>55054077
>>55054192
>>55054521
Yea, I forgot to post. I'm trying to convert this, which is a 120mm base model, so the regular size guys are too small.

Thanks for the suggestions though, and sorry about not being clear.
>>
>>55057667
Skulls are all from the Empire flagellants, Cloak is the primaris captains, helmet is from warrior of chaos(?).
>>
Can someone suggest me some clippers? I need to cut some old metal models and can't find a decent clipper that can withstand that, even the newer citadel clippers say only plastic.
>>
>>55058955
If you're cutting metal models, your best bet might be to go grab something from your local hardware store. Wire cutters work, you just need to find the smallest ones you can - too big, and your cut will be so big as to render the part unusable.
>>
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>>55046322
>>55046820
>>55046897
Update, I did the same on the aggressors. How it look?

1/2
>>
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>>55059238
2/2
>>
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>>55058955
>I need to cut some old metal models and can't find a decent clipper that can withstand that

Old metal models? For conversions? Emperor's Teeth, anon! You need a *saw*, not *clippers*.

You *might* be able to get by with a Dremel moto-tool equipped with a cutting wheel, but I'll warn you: that metal model will get *extremely* hot to the touch.

Oh, and also ... don't slip!


>even the newer citadel clippers say only plastic.

Absolutely! You will jank up your nice (but over-priced) Citadel sprue clippers if you try this.
>>
>>55059401
I always liked using a drill press for head swaps.
>>
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R8 my m8
>>
>>55060007
bretty gud/10

As an AoS player I die a little inside every time someone uses SCE for a conversion since these purchases makes GW think AoS needs more SCE
>>
>>55059401
what do I search for if I want a cheap drill? I dunno the proper name for a small drill like the ones GW sells.
>>
>>55060200
Pin vice, google that
>>
>>55060107
dude there's no SCE parts on that conversion.
The mask is sanguinary guard.
>>
>>55060007
A few things:
1. make main colour black
2. gold accents and ornaments
3. ???
4. collect brouzouf
>>
>>55060007
>he left the nipples on
tip top kek
>>
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>>55060263
>>
>>55060263
>I make troll post thinking its a marine with a stormcuck head
>theyalllookthesame - that's the joke
>Was just a space marine head and I couldn't even tell the difference because all rook da shame
THIS IS EVEN BETTER THAN WHAT I PLANNED
>>
>>55060200
>what do I search for if I want a cheap drill? I dunno the proper name for a small drill like the ones GW sells.

You'll want a pin vise.

In >>55044881, you can see the two that I own, next to a cheap hobby knife with a plastic handle (which you should never buy). The one with the collettes on both ends *seems* cool, but the coolness wears off after a few minutes when the end you're *not* using starts digging into the palm of your hand. The other one is Army Painter's Pin Vise, which is a nice, fairly inexpensive product - about $14.00US. It has a knob at the top which turns - a vital feature for a product like this.

I will tell you, Citadel also makes a very nice pin vise. It's *way* more expensive than the Army Painter one, but is actually much better. While the Citadel pin vise is slightly more comfortable, its chief advantage lies in being able to accommodate much smaller drill bits than the Army Painter one.

For me, I switch between the two depending on how small I need the drill bits to be, but ideally, I'd like to see a product that can handle the small drill bits like the Citadel one at the price point of the Army Painter one.
>>
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Hey /wip/ any suggestions for achieving pic related's orange? I know it can be done with an airbrush fairly easily, but barring that what can I do? Would a 70/30 mix with orange work? Or is there a paint out there that matches it fairly well.

For those curious, my partner is planning on painting the Stormcast from Blightwar in a samus theme. My previous attempts at painting anything orange have resulted in an overcooked hotdog look, so I don't consider myself an expert on the subject.
>>
>>55061457
I'm dumb and forgot to clarify. I want an orange with that same metallic look. The mix would be with a metallic paint.
>>
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>>55061495
>I want an orange with that same metallic look.

I wonder if you could achieve this with a silver paint job covered with orange washes. There's a similar technique for getting metallic blues and greens. I'm not sure how well this would work on a warm, light colour like orange, though.
>>
>>55061457
Vallejo Game Air glorious gold, wash with GW agrax earthshade, may be a bit darker then pic, but it's a very orange'ish gold.
Alternatively metallic paint then use Tamiya clear orange over it, though those clear paints are a bit thick.
>>
>>55061590
would probably get better results if it's undercoated with gold
>>
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I'm thinking of painting my metal Archon's mask like one of those Japanese ogre ones. Think it'd work?
>>
>>55061590
>>55061648
>>55061688
I hadn't thought of using washes. And I've seen that alpha legion tutorial posted, I think something like that might work! I like the looks of that vallejo gold, too. Might need to try a few different ways to see what sticks.

Thank you both for the advice!
>>
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>>
>>55061716
Don't see why not. I would try to utilize the theme in your whole army though if you did. But that's just me.
>>
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>>55061760
Undercoats are all done, let me know if the red clashes too much with the black robes.
>>
>>55058892
yep. the helmet looks like a refinement of the spiky skill helmet from the icons/championy sprue.
>>
>>55061457
Another option might be using Vallejo's RC Line of paints, as it has a metallic orange (it's probably a little pale though), but that's nothing that a little wash can't fix afterwards.
>>
>>55061783
The red does look a bit out of place, as bright as it is.
I'm sure a wash will fix that.
>>
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>>55055890
Been good got some more work done on my Lord of contagion

Bought some pre heresy death shroud I'ma paint up already finished my typhus

Got a mix of pre heresy and the older models of plague Marines I gotta paint up
>>
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>>55055890
Making progress. I'm currently debating if I should leave one "shitty" coat of Death World Forest on the armor to give it a grimy look or go for a two-coat solid green color with Athonian Camoshade wash. Opinions?
>>
I want to convert some incoming models I got on the cheap so that they fit my elf army. Since they're not GW minis, I worry that using WH/40k heads will look weird due to scaling/proportions issues, but 40k heads is all I seem to be finding on eBay. What do you guys recommend? Different site? Specific sellers/search terms? I would just try my hand at adding ears, but they all have hems on, and they look way different from every other helm-wearer in my army.
>>
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What's your favorite place for 40k conversion bit store, /wip/? I like Anvil Industries but I need some flamers.
>>
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About to apply some washes, I hope this works.
>>
>>55062537
Nevermind, I was retarded and missed the link in the OP.

Now to decide between buying elf heads or tacticool heads and try my hand at adding ears...
>>
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>>55062364
Anyone?
>>
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Today was a nice day so I got some priming done
>>
>>55062176
You should tone down the highlights on some parts. Too much bling creates no focal point.
For example cloak/brass.
>>
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Some slightly hair-etical head for my primary marines
>>
>>55048156
looks great
>>
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Still waiting for paints for my deathwatch - more bones in the meantime. Has any used/have any experience with Vallejo extra opaque paints? Im particularly interested in the flesh one.
>>
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Been meaning to share this a while. For any of you looking to add a bit more pop to your models, especially those who gw does not make water transfers for. Got 60 of these for like 11 bucks, they are curved to fit shoulderpads. Other stuff besides marine stuff too.

Search pop goes the monkey on shapeways.
>>
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>>55066359
>>
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>tfw you're building a grot and you drop the head into the carpet
>>
>>55046172
As someone whose two armies are Imperial Guard and Tyranids, I'm going to have to say: go for it.
>>
>>55066528
the carpet has accepted your offering, your next model will be blessed with smooth thin coats.
>>
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>>55049057
Thinner wire, sharper turns. I think.
>>
>>55066604
Well the primer went on super smooth so there's that
>>
>>55066528
>priming outside
>unprimed csm head falls into pile of gravel the exact size and color as it
I found it immediately but I about shit myself
>>
>>55066604
We must declare jihad on all the Duncan worshipping infidels in the name of our carpet god
>>
>>55066815
Ave Tapete
>>
>>55066528

Life isn't suffering until you drop an MG 42 from Flames of War.

May the great Grey Carpet bless my armies.
>>
File: first.jpg (155KB, 744x1328px) Image search: [Google]
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Back at painting after a few years. Duder on the left still needs work and cleanup but compared to what I've done in the past I'm happy so far. Krieger on the right I'm just kind of following how I did my Night Lords because I like the scheme for the trench coats.

The one problem I'm having with that is I'm not quite sure what to do with their armor. I definitley don't want to do NL bronze, considering silver, and I don't really want to do black. Suggestions?
>>
>>55067098
Maybe try an olive drab or a dark grey
>>
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I think i've cleared up the dead marine on the base a bit now so i'm pretty happy.
Almost done with the armour now, just got to do a backpack and my suffering will come to an end
>>
>>55067457
Hey I remember when you were asking about the chapter symbol a while back!
Looks really great, love the scheme on this guy.
>>
>>55063814
Oh it's not done yet, that's the base coat for the rusty orange but but ive posted finished work on here before I'm usually pretty happy with the finished results of the bright highlights and such
>>
>>55062176
you should incorporate more colors into the model in order to better differentiate between the parts, like the armor and the fleshy bits like the stomach, because otherwise the parts are going to become hard to differentiate from each other and just kind of blend together making the model look too bland and uniform. The stark highlights sort of helps but doesn't compensate enough for it.
>>
>>55067457
Holy shit that's cool. What's the story with your chapter anon? Is it homebrewed?
>>
Anyone here painted Drycha Hamadreth? Any sub-assemblies recommended or just build and paint?
>>
>>55045968
They are looking good, liking the skin.
>>
>>55045355
https://youtu.be/PeebREfXya0
>>
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>>
Would this effect translate to a 28mm mini at all?
Plenty of light sources where I'll be playing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdhBciDY4Ic
>>
>>55069689
It would probably work on large smooth surfaces alright enough, but most 28mm minis aren't big enough for you to really notice that effect when it's a few feet away on a table.
>>
>>55069689
It should work, but if the surfaces it will be covering are quite a bit smaller the effect will be less noticeable.
But if you have models with large curved surfaces, it should work just fine.
>>
>>55067457
What colours did you use for basing? I like it
>>
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>>55069713
>>55069722
It'll be on these. I plan on having them floating over orange LED lit necron crystals either in a snow drift or in a swamp with water scenic creating a glow in the murky water. They'll be on movement trays varying in number so there will be plenty of space to really paint a picture.
>>
>>55067802
I'm aware of your previous works and their ugh.. freehanded bases.

>>55067935
This anon makes the same point, it all turns into a blob of color if you don't create focal points and such.
>>
>>55067802
And since you love freehanding everything, why not start practicing different textures.
Here's a good example of colorful piece but with focus on textures http://www.puttyandpaint .com/projects/14554
>>
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Finished my very first model today...have mercy, i never had any talent for painting stuff...and the pic looks even more shitty than reality...but fuck it, i had great fun doing it and will continue with the hobby even when starting at age 31 is kind of late...
>>
>>55070203
Its never too late anon, and it actually doesnt look that
>>
>>55070203
This is fantastic for a first model. Keep in mind the first model I tried to paint was done with black ink, without a primer.
You have the basics down. Thin coats, kept within the lines. From there it's all just knowledge of technique. Highlighting, washing, shading, glazing, glassing, non metal metallics, etc
>>
>>55070086
Those are quite finely sculpted, so the individual surfaces will be quite small, they'll still look extremely rad in a glossy white pearl coat though, with the light playing off them in interesting ways, but don't expect the full colour-shift experience, they're a little on the small side for that.
>>
>>55070203
Perfectly tabletop worthy and way better than what I was putting out when I started.
>starting at age 31 is kind of late
Doesn't really matter 2bh, it's not a young mans game like most sports are, unless you get Parkinson's or something you'll be able to keep going with it and improving until you're like 100 years old
>>
Anyone that can share that old pdf on painting horses ?
>>
>>55070203
I'll give you a helpful tip if you haven't done so already; since you don't have an airbrush prime in the brightest color of your model, being a bleached bone. Army Painter sells cans of colored primer. From priming,using a regiment brush give everything a liberal wash of watered down brown wash and move onto your black coats, reason being if you get a color from the gun (which is best painted unassembled from the mini anyway) or armor it's easily covered. Then paint metals which you wash and highlight afterward. Just be careful when applying the black near the fringe of the coat, it's easiest done by following a vertical line down allowing yourself room for possible messy application to the rest of the section.
>>
Thanks for the friendly rating and the tips...will definetly look into the idea with the bright primer
>>
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Not entirely sure where I'm going to go with this guy from here, aside from cleaning up all the mold lines and stuff obviously. I'm going to be having spiders all over his base and smaller ones crawling on his arms and shoulders, but I'm on the fence as to whether to give him some more armor plates or not.

Probably pale blue skin for the colour scheme with yellow eyes and details, as befits a Daemon Prince of Tzeentch.
>>
>just started a new job
>leave house at 6:50am, home at 8:30am (hour and a half gym after work)
>want to get into models but no time apart from weekends

first world problems I know but I miss my NEET days
>>
>>55070554
well at least you earn money now and don't have to choose between new models and food anymore
>>
>>55070454
No daemonette pincers to add to him?
>>
>>55070971
Nope, saving them for a different model. Something similar might be good though, coming out from under the arms maybe.
>>
>>55070554
Guess you mean 8.30pm. Otherwise I'd really feel sorry for you.
Anway, what the hell are you doing in the gym all that time? Unless you are running for an hour you could be out of there in 40 minutes and still got a good workout in. I mean one and a half hour each day is way too fucking much if you are lifting or whatever. And running three hours a week is enough too.

I mean if you don't watch movies or watch tv in the evenings you still could squeeze an hour in, which is quote a lot if you do that every day.
>>
>>55067517
Thanks, freehanding the chapter symbol is irritating so i'm looking into printing some custom decals.
>>55068654
Yea I'm fluffing them as Exorcists successors called Perdition's Vigil
>>55069938
Dryad bark as a base, P3 Rucksack Tan mixed with a little bit of Administratum grey and a really light dry brush of rakarth flesh
>>
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Demon shlong
>>
>>55071403
nice
>>
>>55071183
Maybe hes doing Bulgarian method
>>
>>55071751>>55071751>>55071751>>55071751
>>55071751>>55071751>>55071751>>55071751
migrate right about now
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Thread images: 92


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