/wip/ - Work In Progress Painting Building Modeling General

>>54686014
First for racial slurs painted on shoulders

>>54686255
TACTICAL

RACISM

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I might be going a bit hard on the reflective armor, it looks better if it's just the corners that get the dot highlight

>>54686330
One day, your brush control will become much tighter and you'll look back on this figure and wonder what in the world you were thinking. Then again, it looks good from 2 feet away, so tabletop standard is tabletop standard

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Still workin' on da short bus fer my grots. Debating on adding more scraps on it, but I still want it to obviously be a schoolbus at a glance.

>>54686404
there's nothing wrong with trying new things, how else am I supposed to get good

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Iron Warriors fag here, was able to use that Krud Kutter Grafitti remover to completely strip the model without harming the greenstuff gaps and glues. Now I'll try re-priming tomorrow and hopefully I won't have any grain this time!

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>>54686014
Tonight I'm building an avenger strike fighter and I was hoping to get advice from others with experience. Anything I should know? I have already soaked, scrubbed and trimmed all the parts

>>54686448
this thing is fucking great

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>>54686479
>that grit tho

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>>54686557
Fits in with my counts-as grot warbikes too. Too bad bikes are kind of rubbish this edition other than as mobile shielding for a character on a bike.

>>54686588
yeah it was pretty bad, glad I decided to strip it. Gonna be working on it this weekend.

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How's the weathering on the white look like?

>>54686656
The white looks good. Adding some grime to your engines and the immediate area around them might help a tad, but it looks great so far.

Do you actually like the lakers anon?

>>54686688
Thanks! I've only washed the engine thus far, any idea on how to add grime to those areas though? Seems really easy to mess up

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working on some heraldry for my crusader chapter. what are some other designs that would give that nice Anglo-Saxon feel?

What is the best brand of brush soap/cleaner?

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>>54686789
>What is the best brand of brush soap/cleaner?

Most of us just use Masters. Pick it up at your local Michaels with a 40-50% off coupon and you'll be set.

>>54686847

Thanks, I always see that brand in OPs for /wip/ but I couldn't remember the name

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Working on some Death Company. Finally got enough Power Maul bitz to kit out a whole squad (4 from the DW Veterans kit and 1 from the DA Company Veterans kit) so I did just that to celebrate.

Overall I'm decently happy with 'em. Something feels off about #3 (too static?) but the rest seem fine enough for me. I think I really did well with the implying motion on the rest of the little lads. I think I might cut #3's hand at the wrist and reposition the Power Maul just slightly to make him seem more alive. Not sure though.

Oh well, I'll sleep on it for now. Time to work on the other 25.

>>54687054
How did you get such a smooth prime job

>>54687071
Anon...

>>54687071
I don't think they're primed anon.

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Going for alpha legion. Before a wash with 50/50 lahmian medium and waywatcher green...

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>>54687346
.....and after. Going for a turquoise type color for their armor.

>>54687346
>>54687367
Shame, it seems to give the model a rather dirty aspect, it's not shiny anymore. If I try that, maybe I'll add just a touch of ardcoat in the mix.

>>54687346
>>54687367
Is that tamiya metallic blue? That's the easiest way to get alpha legion colors. Nightshade wash and it turns a perfect teal

>>54687557
mig warhead metalic blue

So I have a question about basing a specific miniature which is currently hypothetical, but won't be forever.

I'm planning to get the Imperial Triumvirate set once I've honed my painting skills a bit more, but I have very specific bases in mind for Celestine and her guards, and today I realized that the models themselves are going to make it difficult. I want them to look like they're hovering over marble pedestals, but the scroll supports that the minis actually rest on are shaped like lumpy rocks, which won't fit my pedestal idea.

So: how should I go about building up the bases around the "rocks" to make it look like the scrolls are lying on a flat surface?

>>54687557
you have any examples mabye?

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BULLgryn-anon with another update.

I got in a supply of greenstuff and now I can begin the sculpting in earnest.

The fey mood continues to run rampant, I am putting way too much detail into this.

Today I sculpted BOOTHEELS for two hours.

BOOT. HEELS.

What am I doing.

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>>54687666
Perhaps I should also mention that the greaves in that shot are custom 3d prints. I had to design them myself using CAD.

Help me.

>>54687635
nope

>>54687676
>Those feet

Are you giving them battle sandals?

>>54686847
>>54687019
You know it's funny - I just got some of that shit today and used it for the first time- Some brushes that were previously not serviceable, while not in peak condition are usable again.

>>54687666
>>54687676
I mean, that's all fine and dandy, but what's your goal in sculpting all those tiny details that no one will see?
Do you plan on givinf them a completely different look overall or just invisible tiny details?
Seems like a lot of work for not much results to me.

>>54687693
Yes.
>>54687721
I KNOW. I CAN'T STOP.

>>54687666
>>54687676
Nice satan trips, Cant wait to see how this conversion pans out.

>>54686460

That's exactly what he's saying, anon. Keep practicing.

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Did checks on an aggressor as a test. Not sure if I'll do it in the same place for the other two. Also, I tried out a chipping illusion. Did I do it right?

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Googly eyes?
Googly eyes.
At least for the plaguecaster

>>54689269
The mono-eye is freaking hilarious. Paint them like minions

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>>54689161
>tfw really want Aggressors but poor college kid can't justify 50 bucks for 3 models

Looks okay, but the base looks a bit bland (unless you're aming for a puddle of mud then it's not bad).

>>54689396
>paint them like minions
I think I threw up a little

So do shoulder pads from older Marines work on the Primaris? I got a bunch of Forgeworld Iron Fist should pads but all I've really messed with at the moment are easy to build with the shoulder pads built in.

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working on a Knight of house Makabius for my Death Guard.

>>54687878
Don't stop. It's looking glorious.
The 3d prints are maybe an overkill but hey if you're having fun!

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>>54686014
My chapter has a bit of a salvage theme going for it. Do you think a T'au Hammerhead Burst Cannon would look strange if held by a Hellblaster Lieutenant?

Also, where's a good place to buy random bits from every army? ebay?

>>54686448

Stuff like this always makes me want to collect Orks.

>>54687666
>Anon is taken by a fey mood.
>Anon screams I must have greenstuff
>Anon is working furiously
>...on bootheels for little army men
>Anon gets a free visit to the 'sudden magma exposition room'

>have shit planned out to paint
>end up working 3 11hr shifts in a row
>only have base coat down
>wanted to be done by Saturday

Kill me. I hate life.

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>>54690231

Is it better to prime Skitarii in white or black?

>>54690352
Which way was should I wipe my ass? Anyone help?

>>54686739
Kinda hard to get an Anglo-Saxon feel with traditional heraldry seeing as they predate the invention of heraldry. Anglo-Saxon design was always very free flowing and non-uniform while heraldry follows set patterns and laws. Your best bet to get an Anglo-Saxon feel would be to copy the colours and designs of the LoTR Rohirrim.

>>54690352
That depends entirely on your colour scheme, but metallic colours do come out better on a black base, white and grey however are nicer for bright colours.

>>54690352
Can never go wrong with grey

>>54687716

I'd had faggots argue with me not to waste money on Master's soap. Also on kolinsky sables and thinning your paints.

No, seriously, someone once argued with me and said thinning paints weren't necessary because he could paint well without thinning GW paints a couple years ago.

>>54690664

I get that some people are incapable of something as simple as thinning paints slightly, but why wouldn't you thin by choice? It saves money and looks better. What a dunderhead.

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My first gaggle of orks. Planning to have every box of boyz having different skin tones and mix them up in squads. How would these look like if there are 120 of them?
My God, I must paint another 110 of them...

>>54691060
The mixed skin tones look great, though the bright guy in the middle needs some mates as he looks out of place on his own.

>>54691060
Those look great anon. I feel your pain too. I'm starting a chaos renegade militia army based in infantry and artillery... hold me brews

>>54686656
Holy shit Ive been meaning to do same thing for my Valkyries. How did you do it?

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>>54686448
>skool of ard noks

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>>54691060
Comment: I think it will look amazing Anon! Just hold out till then, the finished product should make you proud!

Criticism:
>please base your models, they will look so amazing with just simple texture paint and a drybrush

>>54691162
Yup, I'm planning to base the whole 120 once I'm done with them, since that way the bases will be uniform. Would it be too late to base them that way once I painted and glued the boyz?

>>54691197
I don't think it'll be too late. I always base my models after completely painting them. Sometimes you get a leg or two ripped when separating the base though

>>54687633

Just cut the rocks off and resculpt the ends

>>54686014
Hey wip I'm planning on buying some tamiya flat clear varnish in a rattle can because it's available locally. My question is do I need to apply a gloss varnish first before the matte? Or will the matte on its own protect the paint well enough. I already have Tamiya pearl clear but it's way too glossy so needs a matte layer.

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I get that I need decent modeling paints, washes and glazes for my brush work, but is quality genuinely a concern with spray cans?

I can get no-brand spray cans five times cheaper than Citadel cans, and half of the fucking paint passes right by my models and disperses into thin air anyway.

>>54686330
Thicccccc

>>54691849
Spray quality is very important. You might absolutely destroy your models if you use an inadequate spray can

>>54691916
What do I need to look for in a spray?

>>54691922
It absolutely must say primer on it. Also, a lot of non-GW primers I've used take a really really long time to dry and even then, the bond just isn't as good and can be scratced with a fingernail. GW black spray is great.

>>54691849

The only 3 decent brands for undercoating is Citadel, Army Painter and P3 with them all being roughly the same price and Citadel considered the best.

Do not, I repeat, do not use anything else or you will fuck up your model and look like a massive retard in the eyes of everyone else.

>>54687721
we can see them right now. they'll be seen on the finished model too, unless he bases them knee-deep in texture paste or something. what are you talking about?

>>54689924
it looks as if you've used gum that you found under a bus bench to attach its chainsaw arm. that's just a really lazy looking putty job

>>54691965
what are you smoking? rustoleum painters touch bonds tighter and thinner than any of those and is a fourth of the price. the major "basecoat fuckups" like grittiness or tackiness are all down to environmental conditions or not shaking the can enough anyways. Branded miniature sprays can be useful if you need to get a specific color down as an element of a scheme, but beyond that they're a gouge

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Just realised one of my models has gotten a wound already. Should I leave him in this 'unique' state or get some greenstuff and fix it?
And sorry for the late replies, server died on me yesterday

>>54681370
Did the model get grainy after priming or after painting? I assume you primed it with sprey?
Are you sure you've thinned your paint well? Not too little but neither too much?
Are you handling the brush correctly? Maybe you should try having less paint on the brush?

It's really hard to tell without an image, try getting one and see if you can get a better response
Or at least describe what looks off better. Is it the highlights, shading or something else?

>>54681683
So you specifically want armoured anti-armour? No las-devs etc?
Try the Contemptor Mortis with two twin Lascannons; almost as cost-efficient as devs but tougher and mean looking
If you want something different, the Xiphon Interceptor looks pretty cool on paper, considering ordering one myself

>>54683811
Thanks!

>>54685868
Looks great but maybe try and get the black camo stripes smoother?

>>54689880
Heard head and pauldrons are interchangable but don't quote me on that, got it from /40kg/

>>54690397
HAH NERD

>>54691060
Looks great, see >>54691124

>>54691849
As with all things make sure to check online about non-hobby primers.
In the UK halfords primer is fine and I've heard hycote is also adequate, not sure about overseas.

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Posted previous and here's an update. Basecoated it in Warplock Bronze via drybrush before adding Hashut Copper by drybrush again. Looks a lot better but now I'm not sure whether to apply Balthasar Gold to the crest and select trims and I can't decide whether I wanna wash or recess wash with Seraphim Sepia. It dulls the metallic shine a bit from what I've seen from testing on the sprues.

Last picture in the collage is the four colours.

Warplock Bronze
Balthasar Gold
Hashut Copper
Sycorax Bronze (will be used for edge highlight)

>Finish spraying
>Immediately starts pissing down

Thank you Based Emperor

>>54692144
I like how this looks so far! a gold chest eagle might be headed towards overkill in the metallics department, but it might be worth an experiment. You can always paint over it with something flatter if it's too blingy. dude already sorta looks like a statue/trophy

>>54692060
Forgot to mention, index finger is missing

>>54692144
Can't help you with that but model looks amazing
What's the general idea for the rest of the model? Maybe make the crest silver?

>>54692301
Damn, feel your pain

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I got a pretty good deal for an Harlequin army. So I'm beginning to do some test for the colours and all.

Not too convinced on the diamonds on the left boot, pondering whether or not I should do something else, the red seems to be too close to the purple to really make it stand out.

>>54691144
Take a sponge, dip it in rhinox hide, wipe some off and dab on edges.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyuPxJG5kFc
At about 3 minutes

>>54692714
Tone down the left sleeve/chest and purple will look better.

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Anyone tried the Forge World Airbrush paints? How are they? Should I just use Citadel Air or whatever?

>>54692144
Goddamn that looks good.

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Finished up these guys today. Just need to do their bases.

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How do I make gore?

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beep boop

>>54692714
can we get some better lighting? areas like the mask and sleeve look like they're done with some real skill, and I'd like to get a better look!

How well do I need to strip old primer before re-priming?

I'm having a hell of a time getting all of the black brush-on primer off that I slapped on my ork boyz, specifically in the recesses and areas I can't scrub vigorously like the sides and armpits of arms that aren't raised up. My plan is to spray them with a bone white and then basecoat, shade, and dip them for a decent table top standard; will I be fine spraying over the remaining black? I mean they are boyz, so I'm not going for a super high level of painting.

>>54693483
>bisected stormcast and a big wooden stick.
What is this going to be?

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>>54693418
Jesus fucking Christ those look fantastic.

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>>54692051
This. I've had the best bang for my buck by going to my local car part store and grabbing some cans of Duplicolor Sandable Primer. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than branded sprays, goes on thin but has excellent coverage.

>>54693418
I think centurions are absolutely awful models but those paint jobs are gorgeous

>>54692144
That is almost exactly the effect I was trying to achieve on my own minis. So that's just layers of drybrushing?

I'm stealing the fuck out of that.

>>54693418
They look absolutely amazing, great pajntob m8.
Giving them mk3 helmets was a great idea, they actually look like some kind of ancient suits now.

>>54693418
Only thing letting those models down are the lenses. Either go full glow or full 'gemstone' effect. The thick white dot doesn't really work on its own.

>>54693418
I-I think I'm pregnant anon
It's beautiful

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>>54693418

Help me pick a colour /tg/

I currently use Death Guard Green as the base coat for green areas on my models (sometimes clothing, sometimes armour plates), and wash it with Athonian Camoshade. Trying to figure out a good drybrush/edge highlight colour.

Would prefer to stick to GW shit, all my other paints are GW so I might as well.

>>54692901
I'd also like to know, anyone got an answer?

>>54693712
Just a crisis suit.

>>54694372
I get that, i'm asking about the stormcast

>>54692714
Man it's a shame this is getting ignored, some really great work going on there on that mask, glossy leather and stripy top. I think you're right about the purple, a different colour might be better, though red white and black is a good combo on its own. The red diamonds on the left leg I think just suffer because there is no clear pattern, the shapes are like when someone who can't paint tried to do a diamond pattern and they're all over the place. Needs something to make it look deliberate.

My crisis suits are predominantly brown, with some green accent panels, and red sept markings.

What colour should I do plasma glows on their weapons? Considering red, but that sounds difficult to paint well.

>>54691583

Actually it occurred to me last night that I could just forgo the official base altogether, get some sort of plastic or metal ring (metal would be better; more weight!) plunk mini and magnet in middle, and fill it with hardening liquid of choice so that it covers the rocks and magnet while staying inside the ring.

Does that sound likely? I'm concerned about stability on Celestine, so I want maximum mini-base contact.

>>54694602
consider blue, if you've already got red sept markings I don't think having guns with a similar colour would look that good.

>>54692393

>a gold chest eagle might be headed towards overkill in the metallics department

That's what I was thinking but I also thought that a gold crest might make it pop just a bit more. If I really can't decide what to do, I'll probably just test it on some spare models.

>>54692554

Going for the Minotaurs scheme so nearly the entire model will be in that scheme, save for the shoulder pads. Will likely use a bright red to contrast the bronze look.

I was thinking of a silver crest before but I think it'll become the unintended focal point of the mini.

>>54692928

Really thankful that everyone thinks its looking good so far. I was wrecking my brain trying to figure out how to get a bronze look that wouldn't be too dark or gold-like.

>>54693817

Yup. Black primer > Warplock Bronze > Hashut Copper. All applied by drybrushing but not the primer obviously. But don't drybrush until it's a solid layers, you want the base coat to blend with the following layer.

>I'm stealing the fuck out of that.

Hope you achieve what it is you've been looking for, anon !

>>54686448
Doing Gork or possibly Mork's work, anon

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here's my finished Dunecrawler

>>54694999
That is grainy as fuck, gotta say. I like the scheme and I can see you put in a lot of work, it's well done overall.
But the texture really fucks it up.

Does finecast really deserve all the hate it gets? I've had a few poorly cast miniatures, especially older mold, but metal is such a bitch to glue and chips so easily.

>>54695033
both finecast and metal are shit desu. plastic is best, followed by actual good quality resin

Anyone here used Andrea paint?

>>54695023
yeah, as you can see from my name I Primed with revell basic colour since GW sprays weren't in stock in my retailer

>>54695065
You have my pity.

>>54695062
I have a small number of their paints (their skin tone set), they're matte, realistically toned acrylic paints, comparable to Vallejo Model Color in many ways.
Haven't had any issues with them.

>>54692714
Damn son, I love your Space clown. All those little details really look fucking good. The edge highlights on that mask are perf.

>>54694740
>Hope you achieve what it is you've been looking for, anon !

Thanks. I've going to be trying this on a Convergence of Cyriss army for Warmachine. Will break up the color a bit with some glowing green bits and maybe a bit of verdigris in the joints, to give it that bronze statue look.

The mistake I made in my original attempt was basing in black, then a regular basecoat of Balthasar gold, which even after washing was way too shiny.

>>54689396
i want you to chug bleach.
could you do that for me?
>would you kindly?

>>54693418

One day, your brush control will become much tighter and you'll look back on this figure and wonder what in the world you were thinking. Then again, it looks good from 2 feet away, so tabletop standard is tabletop standard

Does anyone have good advice for painting primarily white Marines? Thinking of doing Luna Wolves after reading Horus Rising and I hear that white can be a bitch to paint particularly getting a good white primer

>>54695188

Make sure to post those pictures once you're done. I only found out about Warmachine when I started Warhammer at my local shop but I really like the steampunk concept of the game.

>Balthasar gold, which even after washing was way too shiny.

Funny thing was that I almost based it with Balthasar Gold as well and if it really is too shiny then I probably won't add another layer of it onto my models unless I do it really selectively.

I tested Seraphim Sepia on other metallic colours though and it seems to wash out all the glitter quite nicely.

>>54694427
Just a marine that the suit landed on. I just had those legs left over from cutting up the guy for his arms.

>>54686650
good job anon, I commented on the grainy-ness of it before, look forward to seeing it improve.

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>>54695303
The filename is directed at myself, not you.

Is white as scary as everyone says it is /wip/?, I wanna do Vior'la Tau since that matches the astehtic well, but I'm a still a newbie.

>>54695436
White is hard to do well, because you can't use pure white until the final highlight, since you can't have colors lighter than pure white.

Shit I just do celestra grey, recess wash, layer ulthuan and highlight white scar

>>54693418
shame about the lines on the smoke stacks that you didn't smooth over with some greenstuff.

other than that, pretty good.

>>54695350
Well, if you want a brighter bronze, then Balthasar is the way to go. I wanted a darker, weathered look, so my experiment with it was not a success.

In retrospect, I probably could have washed it again, and it would have been fine. But it is a strong color by itself, especially as it's a base paint, so I dunno I'm just rambling at this point.

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What would be a good highlight colour for the green tone I've got going on these models?

Just a particularly light green, or should I go for more of a bone colour?

>>54686479
why didnt u buy the Warsmith model that looks already looks exactly like that?

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How should i paint this maul? Especially the rock Inside the head of the maul?

>>54692901
I've used Citadel air before but never the forgeworld paints. I'm very pleased with how the Citadel air line performs. Only downside is that they don't last that long. This could just be me painting a lot over a short period of time though.

I heard once that the forgeworld purple airbrush paint was difficult to work with, but nothing else beyond that.

>>54694922
Really nice. I dont like when Death Guard / Plague Marines etc are painted "sickly colours" but in such a "clean/sharp" way (Like 'eavy metal on the new Plague Marines), but this is really good. Looks rusty / sickly without being a mess or too clean.

>>54695702
Paint the Rock likes its Marble. Or bone.

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Warzone to Imperial Guard platoon standard bearer.
Painting this banner is stressful! Almost finished with the base colors. I'm going to correct mistakes and then do a wash.

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>>54693418
>>54689161
planing to make my starterbox primaris imperial fists. whats your recipe for this sweet scheme

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>>54689735
Yeah, going for the mud puddle portfolio.

I kinda ran out of texture paint doing these so it's a bit less dynamic. I think I'll add more
>>54695888
I'm like a stupid baby compared to the golden god who did those centurions, but I've just been happily using duncans fists video tutorial. Basically averland, soft highlight drybrush hexos palesun, cassadora yellow shade, ushabti bone or dorn yellow edge highlight.

Also, welcome to the crusade.

>>54695728
Agree. I think the studio keeps it clean and bright to show off the sculpts, but it just looks so much cooler rusty and dirty.

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so i'm practicing on brick work before i paint some terrain pieces. Looking for advice. I've only completed the bottom one. basically each section had a different wash applied but i don't rally see much of an affect. Also to each section i used athonian camoshade on one side and coelia greenshade on the other for a bit of weathering.

The two pieces above have been washed but not dry brushed yet. Used Dheneb stone and celestra grey.

Also what colours should i use to do some red, yellow, blue and green bricks?

Any advice is appreciated

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Anybody here has any experience with the vallejo paint sets?
Specifically looking for the undead/demon one http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/non-death-chaos-_by-angel-giraldez_-(8-game-color)/family/18/157
or the Malefic Flesh
http://nocturnamodels.com/product.php?id_product=95
>>54696717
>background wash

wat? My advice would be to wash after you have done your brushwork if you paint over it again.

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Hey /wip/ Im going to try to make a mini of Pic related for an upcoming Edge of the empire game, I have a few ideas, but I was curious to see any suggestions /wip/ might give.

>>54695253
Fuck off with that copypasta, already.

>>54697283
Bloodletter or Kroot body as basis, sculpting the outfit onto it.

You'll have to sculpt the head yourself as well.

>>54689880
Shoulder pads are the exact size as before. Inceptors and Aggressors wear terminator pads with fancy borders.

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Deffdread and Grot Tanks nearly done. Need to figure out how to do lights with an airbrush. Might need to find a test model to experiment with before working on them. Fucked up one of the dreads shoulder pads and tried painting it brown to cover the mess. Don't think it worked very well. Might work it over with some orange to make it look more rusty.

Battlewagon is looking too shiny. Going to give it a good dose of rust and dirt. Need to figure out if it will be easier to do the crew before or after that.

Killa Kans have had their airbrushing. Now I need to paint all the details. Probably just going to go for red and black as spot colours.

Meanwhile, I've got three different vehicles on my build desk, a couple of dakkajets which I haven't even started and about a hundred infantry...

Colour to highlight Retributor armour? Tried Gehenna's gold but it looks a little dark.

>>54697881
Stormhost silver or liberator gold

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>>54697881
Auric Armour or Liberator?

Or add a tiny bit of stormhost silver to your gehenna and glaze it yellow after (you probably want to glaze it yellow anyway if you are going for a really golden look).

>>54693720
>>54693780
>>54693894
>>54693996
>>54694005
cheers lads

>>54693968
ye I was a bit heavy on the white dots there

>>54695516
who can be bothered

>>54695888
look up 'next level painting yellow' on youtube. Technique is similar to what I did, except I use enamel paints for pin-washing

>>54698158
>who can be bothered

I think maybe anon imagined that someone who would take the time to produce an otherwise meticulous paintjob on a set of small detailed models could be bothered. But if it doesn't bother you, it doesn't bother you. They're your toys

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Been a bit slow on the hobby front, with relatives visiting and summer vacations taking place.
Figured I’d repost this guy with an honest query - I’m a bit concerned that the FW resin is too flimsy to hold up the extra weight of the torch over time. I’ve already heated it straight and it seems awfully brittle. Drilled a tiny hole to pin the torch onto the wrench-axe, which will lend some stability. Any ideas on how to make it more rigid? Drill further and add a support pin?

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>>54698037
>>54698122
Thanks will try Liberator. Second question is there a method for painting the runes on the bolter?

>>54698298
I paint at a tabletop standard using tabletop techniques. If I wanted perfection, I'd do display painting.

>>54689161
Might wanna drybrush that barbed wire for a rust effect. Also gloss varnish in the low spots of the base for a wet effect

>>54698449
If you aren't interested in feedback or improving, why post your work? You can go to reddit or dakkadakka for guaranteed praise only if that's your thing

>>54698443
generally speaking people would slop the paint into the script to get a good coat, and then just neaten up with the black again afterwards

>>54698443
The basic idea is that you want to blend the colour you want the runes to glow in around the rune with the colour becoming more opaque and closer to white as you approach the center of the lines.
This is achieved by mixing the colour of your choice with a glaze medium (lahmian medium for GW but I'd recommend Vallejo) and thinning the crap out of it and then slowly building up layers to the area around the runes is only softly tinted with the colour. As you approach the middle just include more and more white in the mix. Make sure to let each coat dry before moving on to the next.

>>54698443
Depends on the color you want them to be. Thin it down and let it run into the runes, then highlight around them

>>54698584
Oh, good idea. I have some water effects from secret weapon I like to use - I'm gonna get more texture paint so I pile it up a bit more and get some nice pools.

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>>54698443
Thin paint, let it run into the runes, let it dry. That will look like on the bottom left. If you wanna be more fancy paint them a very light color (light blue) and thin down a darker blue, that way they should look more glowy because the darker color will pool closer to the edge. Don't believe anyhting I say, painted a grand total of one mini so far.

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'Angry bird noises'

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Thanks for the advice so far. Here are my first 3 Rubrics. Not great but hoping they are acceptable for table top.

>>54699373
>hoping they are acceptable for table top.

Once you've based them they'll be.

For the future, start outlining things. The guy closest to the camera has darker colour in between the ribs on his chest cabling. That's good. You want something along those liens in every recess, between any two parts, etc.

>>54699470
They are based you tit

I got a few assassins and want to do the skin suits super dark navy instead of black with grey highlights. What's the best way to achieve blue so dark it's nearly black?

>>54699373
I think they look good!

I can't quite tell if they've had a wash, the gold looks rather shiny and could use maybe an earthshade in those recesses.

Other than that it looks like a solid job. Certainly fine for the war zone.

>>54699373
why did you base them with microwaved oreos?

>>54699622
A shade of navy blue. Then you just use nuln oil once or twice to shade everything except the highest raised areas. After shading washes are complete, you use the base colour navy blue to highlight the muscles and other raised areas with one line or a moderate size dot. Final highlight with a light blue-grey or grey colour to simulate sun or some other light reflecting off of the skinsuit.

Voila, you're done.

>>54699622
>>54699710
Essentially this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCM-xJClFSA but with stronger shades of blue.

When done, apply coat of gloss varnish over the latex suit to make it glisten more, or matt varnish to make it look like it absorbs light.

>>54699702
It's astrogranite debris, the one on the right it still wet which gives the microwaved look.

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>>54699702
>He doesn't construct some of his minis entirely out of food grade components so that when you're losing you can grab one from the table and bite it in half to intimidate his opponent

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The painting guide says to layer white scar over ultuan grey for the white parts of the armor, but I feel like I should save white scar for a highlight. Should I layer tyrant skull over ultuan instead?

>>54699965
Honestly, I'd go a step further.

1:1 Dawnstone and Ulthuan Grey as base
Ulthuan Grey highlights
White Scar edge highlights

>>54699373
They are good but I think a wash all over would make them look better

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What does /Wip/ think about converting this guy into a Emperor's Children Sorcerer With Jump-pack?

>>54692901
Do you expect them to be bad? They're paint. They're not the best and the pot design is bad and they cost a shit ton of money, but most of the colors are exclusive and incredibly handy for armies like 30k and GK. Also the clears are better than GW glazes for tinting and are not as sticky and nasty as Tamiya Clear. I wouldn't use FW paints unless money is no object, you want an exact color for say SoH or EC to match FW's armies, you need the clear colors, or you play GK and want the blued silver look but with more consistency and not just in the shaded recesses.

Also the FW pigments are totally pointless just buy Secret Weapon or MIG.

My big problem with painting as an amateur so far is that I seem to go too heavy on the wash. Not sure if I should be thinning more or brushing less. Or maybe just not mixing my own washes at all and instead dipping?

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>>54700556

>>54700806

Water down your washes and/or only brush it in the cracks and surfaces where it belongs.

Or after the heavy wash go back an repaint with the original color, leaving some wash showing. I do this and it improves the look but it looks more cartoony and cel shaded compared to a proper thinned or pinpoint wash

>>54700556

Not a bad start. A head swap and shoulder pad swap would make it more ECey, and the crozius could easily be swapped out for a force weapon.

>>54700556
Don't expect sorcerers with jump packs to be a thing once your codex arrives. GW are only doing rules for things that can be built from their kits with no modification (although mixing parts from different kits is allowed; so you can get jump pack space marine captains because the assault squad jump pack can just clip right on to the captain torso and razorbacks with the assault cannons from the land raider kit are still OK, etc.) so chaos characters will not be getting jump packs. Maybe not bikes either, since there isn't an equivalent of the space marine captain kit.

>>54700916
I was thinking of Clipping of the front part of the Crozius and filing off the Skull, then Greenstuff the Phoenix-Claw from the Emperors Children Iconograpy. If it doesnt look right I'll use one of the Phoenix Terminator Spears.

Headswap is a given just like removing the Purity Seals and the Blood-Tears. I do like the shouldpads though

>>54701010
There are still old Shit-cast Models in the Store which are Lords/Sorcs with Jump-pack so technically they should have rules, otherwise they are still in the Index which is an allowed source to pick from afaik.

Will probably use him as a Chaos Lord with Jumppack anyway, he is deepstriking with my Plasma-Raptors and the reroll 1s is pretty crucial

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How do my hazards look, /wip/?

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Is there a way other than edge highlighting every armor plate to do good looking black Space Marine armor?

This is my first of many and my hands are shaky as fuck and it's extremely tedious.

>>54701376
Hazardous

>>54701424

Edge highlighting will probably be the least tedious of the choices, since after that you're probably approaching wet blending/palette territory. If you REALLY want to cut corners, you can base them in a white or gray and then do thin black glazes over that. Model will mostly highlight itself.

>>54689924
>>54692006
weirdly seeing it the bad putty seems to work its heresy ya kno!

>>54701424
>edge highlighting black power armor and losing the will to live
I feel your pain bro

>>54693418
Pants Status: Creamed

>>54686330

This made me realize how confusing a non-pure white RG Apothecary is.

>okay, he's RG so we gotta keep his armor black
>but he's an apothecary so we gotta have some white on there, standard procedure is the shoulder should at least be white
>that's not nearly enough white, and this guy isn't just some pleb, give him a white helmet too
>the narthecium is on the arm, we gotta give him a white arm too

>white helmet
>white arms
>that's the same color as RG vets

>>54701424
That doesn't look too terrible.

I think you might be able to do VERY light drybrushing of the grey, and gradually build it up. If it still ends up too scratchy, then use Nuln Oil afterwards.

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>>54687635
hard to get it to come out right in a picture. Washed green would probably look better

>>54702160

You shouldn't have put nuln oil over it.

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Should I put more red or is this enough? How is weathering? Specifically on engine and white.

Should I try a pin up?

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Another angle with different lighting

Pain in the ass to photograph and light something this big

Hey wip, I just got my discount Chinese barracuda from Z and was wondering just how toxic this resin is and how can I avoid dying before i'm 30 from inhaling dust?

>>54702252
it's nightshade

>>54702367
>just how toxic this resin is
Assume very toxic.

>and how can I avoid dying before i'm 30 from inhaling dust?
Just don't inhale any dust, you mong. Wear a mask and do your sanding outside. If you have to do it inside then vacuum after.

>>54702296
Your metal is boring.

>>54702564
Whatd you suggest I do to it? I tried weathering it with soot and burn but i suppose it didnt turn out so well

>>54702296

Needs atmospheric re-entry burn streaks on the wings

>>54702616
you wathered and sooted flat metal. wash, glaze, highlight, metal burns on the steel, you have to have something to weather.

>>54702723
Any guides or images?

>>54702798
not that anon but I'm pretty sure he does that on the wing in this video. although it's all about red and he uses lots of airbrushing iirc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OoQHFR-ue-4

>>54696883
I got the undead one

The blood effects are nice but not as glossy as citadel blood for the blood god

Honestly i wasnt impressed with them and prefer to use the citadel counterparts

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How much is it worth spending on a cheap airbrush setup for priming/basecoating and vehicles? Funds are limited but I want a way better method than spraycans given the wind where I am.

>>54702160
Its pretty blotchy. Ok for armor but it would look like a mess on vehicles with large flat panels.

>>54703138
If you're talking _just_ basecoating? You can get something like a Paasche single action and a cheap compressor for like $100 combined if you shop around a bit. You won't be able to do anything fancy like glows, but you'll be able to spray indoors (and save on paint).

>>54701376
some are better than others. the knee and chainblade are solid, the shoulders are a bit wiggly and or poorly angled.

Consider using some masking tape (or some nice, thin, tamiya hobby tape)

>>54691060
Bit late, but those look great anon. What paint did you use for them? Doesn't look like regular citadel stuff.

>>54703284
Is a Double action much more expensive? Depends on how long the cheap ones tend to last for Primer and Basecoat work.

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Here's my current progress, last post for this thread I promise

How'd I do

>>54704338
I like it, but it's missing a pin-up girl on the nose.

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>>54704362
Do I look like a madman

>>54699373
Are they peppermint flavor?

Is there a way to get around paying 50 dollars for a set of brushes?

Epic thread is back up for anyone who's interested

>>54702074

>>54704432
You look like a man without a hot chick on his aircraft's nose.

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>>54696368
Imperator Vult, brother :^)
IF and IF successors are GOAT

>>54704602
how did you do your glow effect on your plasma

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>accidentally spill a bit of typhus corrosion
>spills onto the models that needed it
>all I needed to do was clean up the excess paint and my work area

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>>54704722
>full bottle of nightshade
>full fumble off the table
>inhuman reflexes catch it just before it lands in my lap and only a little gets on my hand and shorts.
I've had too many close calls with this shit I really need to just close the damn things

isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol vs superclean for stripping plastic/resin/metal?

just from dicking around it seems like 91% rubbing alcohol does a better job than superclean but what the fuck do I know.

also, any dangers to leaving minis in either for a prolonged period of time?

>>54704722
>he doesn't pour his shades and textures directly on the model

Lol enjoy poking at your figures with a brush, scrub.

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>>54704722
>>54704782
Swap that stuff to dropper bottles. Alternatively and easier: blue tack+loose base reduces the chance of spillage by a ton.

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Gave Seth a helmet so I can still imagine him with the cool facial scars and implants he had in the Index Astartes illustration.

I think I did an ok job overall but seriously, fuck finecast; this shit is terrible to work with and I haven't even started filling all the bubbles with green stuff. I really need to get a metal version of this model as well as both versions of Lemartes.

>>54703254
I did a predator with it, it took a couple washes of glaze to get even

>>54704874

I just keep my old shorter pots and pour new Nuln Oil in those. Or pour some Nuln Oil in a water bottle cap.

I don't like using washes from a dropper. Tried it with AP Dark Tone and preferred GW pots, just not the super tall new ones.

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>>54704874
I've begun the process, wasn't planning on doing it to the shades though, as I like dipping the big brush into the pot for terrain and large stuff. Maybe only pour half into a dropper.

>>54704508
All brushes are basically that expensive. Plus, 50 bucks isn't that bad.

On a side note, is it ever worth it to buy the (((artificer))) brushes, or are they just meme material? I've been painting with normal GW brushes for a while now, but never bothered to pick up artificers.

>>54704874
Screw the base. I sticky tack the fuckers straight onto my desk.

What's the deal with brushes? Are Winsor and Newtons the end all, be all of miniature painting?

>>54706010
No, but they're really good brushes.

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First of my night lords done. Have a five year backlog of minis I never got done. I still need to clean up a lot of stuff highlight some areas but I'm happy with this so far compared to the stuff I did years ago.

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>>54706010

No, they're simply the most well known.

Top to bottom:

W&N Miniature Kolinsky - size 0
W&N Series 7 Kolinsky - size 0
Raphael 8404 Kolinsky - size 0

>>54706010
they're just really nice
i have a 0, 00, and 000 and they're pretty much all i use these days when i'm not painting vehicles

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First time I've painted miniatures in about three years or so. Slowly getting back into it so I don't have a bunch of black-primed units around.

>>54706280
That small?

I mainly use a size 2 W&N, size 1 if it's small details.

Brush doesn't dry up as fast and you don't have to load up on paint as often.

>>54689161
I like the paint job, but but it looks like he's walking into barbed wire without knowing that the wire is there.

>>54689161
Do you think it would be easy to magnetize their weapons? I'm looking at the sprue and it kinda looks like I could just put magnets in the big cavity in their gauntlet, and then one in similar spot on the inside of flamer/bolter

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Trying to get better, any tips?

>>54706934
Are you... painting in your recess shading? If you are, stop that and use a wash. If you aren't, work on your transitions because it looks very strange. Currently you just go from black to white with almost no gradient in-between in a lot of places. The abs look fine in this regard but the apothecary shoulder pad doesn't. It's inconsistent.
Your lenses are also pretty bleh - liven them up with some lighter colors.
Your finish also pretty grainy. You should fix that. Not sure if it's a symptom of thick paints or a poor priming job though. Could be both.

Overall, looks good. A fine table-top standard, I'd say.

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>>54706934
Thin your paints and practise brush control. Otherwise its looking pretty good.

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>tfw zoning out for hours painting with relaxing music before sitting back and enjoying the feeling of a job well done

Is there a better feeling?

>>54693537
Simple and well done. Noce w'ork ya grot!

>>54695702
The Black mace is returning in the new chaos codex..... *cough *cough

I would do marble though myself, matches your white already there.

Superior question - before new codex Exorcist were all red - black backpack and black trim on shouldr pads - new codex they have GOLD trim on shoulder pads ? ! ? - How should I paint them ?

>>54699373
TOMMY! DRAGON ZORD!!

>>54706233
What kind of gold mine do you own that you can afford all three of these?

>>54707227
They used to cost like half as much as they do these days 3+ years ago.

>>54706934
Use a wet palette, thin your whites more and once you've applied it don't touch it until it's fully dry. You've built up a really rough texture which is usually from fiddling with paint when it's still drying.

>>54707227
Those are like ~€10-15 each, that's not too expensive. I have 10+ W&N brushes of various sizes. They're not cheap, but they last a long time.

>>54689924

Blue just does not work with Nurgle, anon. I'm sorry but the colors are not good.
And those look like over-easy eggs on his carapace.

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>>54707520
it's house Makabius. they have blue/white colours.

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>>54707520
>>54707790
On the topic of knight heraldry. Can a freeblade knight sport Ad-mech cogs? How do space marine chapters reward knights that go above and beyond in service of the chapter?

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>>54707790
thats clearly cream and grey.

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After 12 days straight at work finally some time to paint. Finished this guy, and starting on the rest of the squad now. Oh and CSM death guard rules seem to show the champions no longer have access to combi weapons, thanks for that GW.

>>54707215
Which ever way you think looks best (black).

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Got my base colors done. Now I just need to get that sweet Nuln in there, start highlighting, and then bring the lightning

>>54687190
He's got some mad skills to prime like that without getting any on the bases.

Bump, should I fix his finger or keep him fingerless?
>>54692060

>>54691922
You need a proper shrinking primer. (so not GW) You also need to pay attention to the recommended distance for spraying.

I prefer valspar but there are plenty of others.

>>54692901
The clears are great. Others than that they're nothing special unless it's a specific color you want.

>>54691922

As others said, it's gotta be a primer. Ideally one that says it works on plastic. I like the Rustoleum stuff myself - great base to paint onto and covers solidly.

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first model painted in 12 years. Howd i do? paints a little thick because i changed my mind on the colour of the armour halfway through. needs a few touch ups too.

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>>54686014
how would you achieve the grayish color + weathering of this drones plating?

>>54696368
You made me sad.
I saw a yellow + checker and thought I was looking at mighty Lamenters.
Instead it's Imperial Fist.
Sad times.

>>54692060
>Forgot to mention, index finger is missing
greenstuff it back on

>>54694999
that really is too grainy for my taste as well.
my suggestion is that you get a sponge (rip from your bed or sofa if needed) and fuck every straight surface up with battle damage.

also thin your drybrush a bit down.

and remember when you dont get any comments at all thats when you know you have nothing to improve. but who likes no comments at all.

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>>54704362
i knew i saved this for a reason

>>54704432
Fair enough. Skater skull, then?

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Working on my snapfit chad, happy with how the base colour is coming along.

Still can't decide on a colour for the pauldrons/knee though - the blue is a placeholder.

>>54707889
this is really impressive! the pink areas and cloak are particularly well done

>>54708217
How'd you do? paint is a little thick and needs some touch ups. I like the colors though!

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>>54707959

Need to sleep, but I got most of the highlights done. My camera doesn't like to pick up red lenses, but they're there. Really it's just some cleanup, some light highlights, and then painting the base and lighting.

>>54709752
i originally wanted metallic pink armour so i had a basecoat of stormhost silver on the panels, followed by several washes of carroburg crimson. didnt turn out like i'd hoped so i drybrushed some emperors children pink onto it followed by glossy nuln oil, and then tried edge highlighting with fulgrim pink

I think I've done something bad...

I wanted to get a colored metallic look on a vehicle and saw some cool marines done with a tamiya spray can. So i went out anf got a few cans of spray on testors... i at least tried them out on spare sprues first and see the three seem useless, acting like bubbly water on the primer. The fourth though seems promising, it is an emerald green that lools pretty close to what i wanted.

I put a coat down over the body and most add ons but taped over the barrels first. I think its actually pretty good so far. But for the parts i taped over no other colors work with the testors spray.

Is it possibly to strip enamel/laquer sprays if i done fucked it up?

Should i go for a wholly metallic color scheme and double down with more spray cans?

Is it possible to combine flat colors with it to make it work as is?

Pics forth coming...

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took a brush to a model for the first time today (other than a brief lesson at my flgs)

honestly picked one of the most ornate and embellished troop sized units available i reckon but im pretty happy with results. fucked up the tabard of the first one i painted (right side) but the second one i neatened up a lot more i think, still looks a bit off though.

im going to paint the sorcerer last so i have had the most experience by then and hopefully dont fuck it, even though i think i overprimed him with chaos black spray.

constructive criticism for these two would be greatly appreciated.

>>54708607
Aight, will do

>>54709756
Looking good anon, sleep tight

>>54710154
Looking like a great start anon, hard to see from these images but seems like you could clean up all the blues quite a bit (see right models shoulder, leg and 'helm wing', left model chest, helmet etc).
Could also do some edge highlighting on for example the 'helm wing'

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>>54710131
I sort of like it but cant figure out where to go with the barrel. Lead belcher base coat maybe?

>>54710254
thank you, its crazy taking a photo with my phone then zooming in and seeing all these crazy details that look bad which i cant see properly with naked eye. ill really try to keep the blue neater for the rest of the squad by being super careful with the gold after the basecoat of blue. once i get gold where the blue is i basically just end up going back and forth between gold and blue trying to touch up the mistakes i keep making.

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>>54710289
This one too.

>>54710289
I'm no expert on colour but yeah, maybe if you tone itl down a bit with a full cover of nuln oil? Doubt you want more bling with an already azure body
Maybe give the main body some wear and tear to take down the shine a bit?

>>54710305
Same here anon, just gotta practice. But yeah, base coat, shade, touch up with base coat. It's better to lack a bit of shading than having a miscoloured base imo
Don't forget to not only thin your paint but to be conservative with the amount of paint on the brush; both for shading and highlighting. Else the shade will float out far from the recess and the highlight will easily get thicc
Maybe you need to get a thinner and longer brush for those fine details?

>>54710371
i think i just need to work on technique to get those finer details sorted, i have a fairly fine brush but having a good application of paint on its very tip is something im not too good at achieving sometimes.

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>>54709096
>i knew i saved this for a reason

Along those lines ...

>>54710457
If you look at for example the weapon highlight you'll see you've most likely pressed too hard or had too much paint on the brush.
Try having less paint and stroke it back and forth quickly as you descend towards the edge (pull towards you).
If you do it like that, you'll sorta airbrush it before you get to the stage shown in your pictures. If you're careful enough it might require several strokes to get the thickness you want.

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How do I get better at high lighting anons?, I thinned my paint, I'm using a insane detail brush from army painter and I still fucked it up, It's crushing mates. It's crushing.

>>54710593

Practice.

>>54710593
Try having less paint on your brush
>that filename

>>54701958
I'd reverse it, go for all white apart from a chapter coloured shoulder pad.

So I accidentally sprayed a bunch of stormcast eternals with this super not smooth black primer. I mean it covered them quite well, but it would be hell if I tried to paint it.
What's a good way to strip primer?
Also is the brush on primer worth it?

>>54710593

>>54710639
>>54710663

Both of these and use mid-tone between basecolor and highlight.
Kinda obvious but plain edge highlights will never look good.

>>54702318
It's a very Star Wars-y paintscheme. I dig it.
That said, I'would've made parts of the engines white and red too. Not sure you can work it in at this stage since it would probably thicken the paint layers a lot.

>>54710920
>>54710639
>>54710663
Yeah, I've been experminting with stuff so it's reason why the highlight colour is so much brighter, but I have a question is there a colour that's best if your bad at high lighting?

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>>54686014
Just started a new CSM army with two of the new starter sets, like 60 cultists, and a few rando chaos kits I picked up second hand.
Plan to paint them a bronze and sort of "sour apple" greenish yellow, and name them "The Sons of Sek", very loosely basing their fluff on the Chaos warhost of the same name in the gaunt's ghosts books.
The top is my current WIP, a Sons of Sek Terminator with a freehand black hand icon on the shoulder (turned out....ok i guess?)
Bot is a look at a few of the finished minis for the army.
only have the meatshields base coated and washed, dreading painting like all 100 fodder troops.
Sorry for potato quality cam.

>>54711154
potato cam would be fine, its the potato photographer that caused the problem here, get the fuckers in focus cant tell any other than they're babyshit green

Yo, so i'm looking to get back into painting after a long time away from it. Thinking i'll be starting off with re-doing my old, hack job space marines that i got during my early teens.

The paint striping guide in the OP- that's generally considered the best method? I'll probably go with Dettol since i have some on-hand and about 80% for the minis are plastic.

>>54698449
Well, you would have gone from "pretty good" to "Fantastic".
>>54698597
This^^^^^

>>54711008

Blues and reds tend to have stronger pigment thus stronger coverage.

>>54706085
Bump, need tips

>>54710371
Thanks for the advice, a bit of lead belcher around the edges and its already lookibg better.

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>>54710289
>>54710316
>metallic green Tau
my nigga
these guys are part of my first ever army, started about a year ago

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>>54712503
My fist model for reference
man the camera really does pick up on the imperfections...

>>54712503
>>54712547
>>54710289
>>54710316
What made you choose metallic green?

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>>54712383
Looks kinda bleak imo.
Not exactly sure but I think that with all that colour and pattern it just makes a bunch of mixed colours rather than complement each other.
If you agree, maybe you could try having less of a colour variance. Pic shows what I mean; while it contains multiple colours, most of them are relatively pale

>>54707790

I'm not disputing that, I'm just saying it's not at all aesthetically pleasing.
You could probably make it work if you dull the blue down. It's pretty bright and vibrant still. This is a machine corrupted and twisted by a god of decay, tone it down a bit.

>>54712626
Thank you. Waiting on my store to refill on altaioc blue so I can get the edges and I'm having trouble thinning my paint to the point where I can do all that lighting, let alone the few bolts I did

>>54710154

Well done anon, you've got good brush control and it's very nice and clean looking. Only criticism I can offer is there are places where the blue highlights are a bit sloppy. Gold looks great though.

>>54712611
Zentraedi mostly, been on a robotech binge lately and felt nostalgic.

>>54712611
I kinda wanted a pearlescent effect like covenant armor, impulse bought some vallejo scurvy green, and one thing led to another...

>>54697693
Did you have any issue getting that rubber track on the sherman? Mine snapped :(

>>54707143
>Is there a better feeling?
>that pic
>ywn get a brutal savage blowjob from gogo

>>54707143
>>54712982
Sauce?

>>5469411
Grey for me has kind of been the worst of both worlds. I don't get way fuck it style shadow pits like with black, and color doesn't show up as easily like with white, and to top out off everything looks chalky. My experience being as a noob of about a year

I had my models stuck onto bases with super glue but I couldn't get a strong bond. I'm gong to use plastic glue this time, should I scrape off the superglue from their feet? I'm worried that it won't work.

>>54713306

scrape the super glue off, the way plastic glue works is that it melts the plastic parts together. if you have super glue in between, it won't work properly.

>>54706693
He probably doesn't care as he'd likely snap it walking through

>>54708510
Looks like dry stippling with various layers and carefully built up washes in key locations

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Sup /wip/.

I'm currently building what I'm calling a 'Scrap trukk for my Ork Freebootaz Warband from chopped up sprues I've gathered over the years, and I've already made a pretty decent base for it so far.

I kinda wanted /wip/'s thoughts on what I should do next.

Pic very much related.

What's the best material to use in bluestuff molds?

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Anyone know where this brazier bit is from?

>>54714251
It's from guillimans base

>>54714251
That guy's Templars are the best I've ever seen.