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WIP - /wipg/ Painting and Modeling Thread

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Thread images: 112

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Wash yo brushes edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Archive 1.1.0.7.6.3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cSCOaowF2UI
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>>54621374

I finished this guy last week. I posted him on the gunpla general in /m/, but looks like they are not really interested in the "painting" thing and went unnoticed. Smaller thing I ever painted.

Also, some months ago some annons asked me for a place to see other things I have been posting here from time to time. I finally made an Instagram some days ago and I'm posting a photo every day since then: https://www.instagram.com/magdarium/
>>
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>>54621523

Back. He's from the size of a keyboard key; I used a 000 W&N brush during all the process.
>>
>>54621523
hot damn sonny that is really small, not even half a marine

looks pretty impressive for this size
>>
>>54621523
>>54621538
noice
>>
>>54621523
>>54621538
d'awww. I want one.
>>
haven't pained in about 8 years, if I were to get back into it what should I start with (Space Marine wise) some Primaris? or manlet marines?
>>
>>54621523
>>54621538
I remember the Dreamer you painted for Malifaux. Pretty fucking amazing.
>>
>>54621523
Hot damn, anon. That's impressive- you managed to even paint eyes on that beyond just dots. Is the Euro cent close to the size of a penny?

Any techniques or advice for someone looking to start painting 10mm miniatures? I'm so used to the 25mm scale.
>>
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So i painted myelf up a manlet to get a idea on what my rubric marines would look like when i paint them up like the ideas i had.

What do you think of that scheme? Too boring?
>>
>>54621640
thin yer paints
>>
>>54621640
Your painting skills aside it's not a bad colour scheme, but I'd maybe replace the gold with a metallic blue if you can get some
>>
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Does somebody here already tried to buy/paint a plastic Hero Forge model ?

Planning to order pic related has my low level Cleric.
>>
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is there a decent way to do this pattern by hand? I tried a few methods but they all look like shit
>>
>>54621374
No flawless host painting guide .... awww nuts
>>
>>54621829
get good
>>
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reposting, because this guy just came out right
>>
>>54621713
>Planning to order pic related has my low level Cleric.
I don't want to rain on your parade, but that looks pretty basic. It's a bit hodgepodge in terms of eqipment, but you could probably get a mini with sallet and club from a bunch of different historical manufacturers for a fraction of the cost.

Can't really comment on the quality of the minis, but people buy custom bits for 40k all the time. I've seen some things printed in ultra frosted detail that looked nearly indistinguishable from the plastic bits after a bit of prepping. So it seems the print quality has gone up and if you put in some elbowgrease yourself it's a decent deal.
>>
>>54621523
>>54621538

nice one anon. Good job !
>>
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I still need to drybrush the base.
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>>54622233
Why does mobile rotate the image wrong?
>>
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>>54622246
>>54622233
>>
>>54622256
Hello.
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>>54622246
>>54622233
>>
>>54621640
decent paint scheme but pretty bad paint job, im guessing you may have rushed a bit since it's a test model.
>>
>>54621829
I do checkers a lot which is similar to this and I sort of just use a thin brush and lot's of redos. I heard scoring the plastic with an exacto knife in the pattern you want can make it easier though but I have yet to try that.
>>
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>>54621976
Thanks for the input, this character is basic because I like to play humble guys.
But what I like about Hero Forge is that I can make all kind of characters. One of my friends' playing a paladin halflling equipped with an axe and a tower shield of her size, this is hard to find something like that in bits I guess, but I'll still look into that, thanks.
>>
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>>54621857
>>54622355

An attempt was made... I think I can get this to look good enough with more time. I used a ruler to put down strokes at equal distance, then just filled them in. I expected my jittery hands to be a big issue but you can work around it.
>>
>>54622674
That's a pretty good start, should look nice with another coat. Why not use masking tape to block out the bits you want to paint red?
>>
>>54622674
Pretty decent, just get rid of the bigger mistakes with a tiny brush and fill in the red a bit but dont do too much more or else you could mess up.
>>
>>54622771
I tried with tape, but any raised surfaces make that a bit of a pain to deal with. I guess this also is a good way train a steady hand.
>>
Picture is shit I know, but a little proof of concept. Regular marines are Primaris sized when put on Terminator legs.
>>
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in general, which army do you think is harder to paint?

>bright edge highlighting, gemstones, talismans, and trinkets
vs
>dark edge highlighting, flayed skin, gemstones, trinkets, skulls
>>
>>54623290
There are easy to paint schemes for both.
You can also make it easier for yourself by only using washes and going for a gritty, weathered look.

Don't do what's easy, go with which one you like better.
>>
>>54623358
I'm talking as a general rule. I was having a disagreement with a friend of mine over which army is more difficult if you're putting effort into them.
>>
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Finally finished my core set squadrons for star wars armada. Some ships look better than others because as time went on I cared less. Still don't feel prepared to paint the slave 1 though b/c that one needs too look good.
>>
>>54623371
Then you are both fools.
It's as easy or as hard as you want to make it for yourself.
If you paint either on a golden demon level it's gonna be pretty hard either way.
If you just slob the tournament legal 3 paint minimum on it's gonna be easy.

It's a pretty pointless argument.
>>
>>54623445
I mean obviously, but for example, no matter how much effort you put into a space marine, eldar and tyranid units are generally harder to paint.

OBVIOUSLY, if you just throw a few colours on the average model, it'll be easy, but when it comes down to it, eldar and dark eldar both have different layers of complexity when you actually put forth the effort to fill in the details on the models.
>>
>>54623486
>tyranids hard to paint
>>
>>54623486
>eldar and tyranid units are generally harder to paint.
That's wrong though.
Take any Space Wolf character who is gonna be covered in pointless greebles and a regular Eldar Guardian.
Either was Eldar and Space marines are basically the same, just smooth armor and the occasional bare head. I don't see how that makes any sense.
And Tyranids are easy to paint too.

Seriously how does that even compute?

I'm just gonna say it again: I depends on how much work you put into a paintjob.

If you two got an argument about who's had it harder painting his plastic men, I think you got other issues.
I may be a cynical ass, but this is some inane bullshit to argue about.
It's not a fucking math equation with only one right answer here.
>>
>>54623535
harder than marines.
>>
>>54623540
actually, neither of us play craftworlder.
>>
>>54623563
Then why the fuck are you even arguing?

Rhetorical question I don't even wanna know.
>>
so which faction is actually hardest to paint?
>>
>>54623586
it started with my groaning at how ugly some space marine paint schemes(specifically, those hideous quartered off schemes) looked. He said it was just extra challenge for painters, and I suggested they just play another army.

it kinda spun off from there.
>>
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>>54622233
>>54622246
>>
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>>54621523
Nice Gundam dude!
>>
>>54622452

Some anon(s) posted few heroforge pieces a while ago, all had very visible print-layers.
Never got an answer on the print-quality they used, but those would've required lot of sanding/smoothing.
>>
>>54623622
>hideous quartered off schemes
>Shitting up the thread arguing about which army is harder to paint
Please leave and never come back. At least post your shit paint jobs if you're desperate for inane conversation.
>>
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REMINDER:
If you have horrors and don't greenstuff over the eyes, you are a fagget
>>
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Reposting because no replies last time.

Does this guy look enough for a Captain/Praetor? I feel like he might be lacking something.
>>
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>>54624069
I like to have both mixed

goddamn im still a bloody begginer
>>
>>54624146
Please tell me you are stripping that paintjob.
>>
>>54624146
add a cape, everyone loves capes
>>
>>54623783
Hi Anon, do you remember the color of the model ?
>>
>>54621523
If you want hobby stuff for gunpla, go to /toy/'s threads instead of /m/.
>>
>starting a new conversion
>relatively inexperienced
>project currently glued together awfully awaiting greenstuff to fill gaps and make tentacles
>tool for rolling tentacle patterns in the mail

I just want to be able to start filling gaps and making details so I can gauge how retarded I am for deciding to do this.
>>
>>54624177
No.
>>
Primaris captain but with giant axe based on the deathwatch thunderhammer.

Yes/no?
>>
>>54621523
>>54624279
You guys seem to know a bit about his, so it seems to be an opportune moment to ask about.

I know there are detailing kits for these kind of kits, fans, air vents and other mechanical details on a sprue so you can add detail to your Gundams.

What are these things called?

I thought maybe it could be a useful thing for making sci-fi scenery, but I have a hard time finding anything I'm looking for. The market for these things is huge and I don't know what terms to search for.
>>
>>54624367
it looks awful, the paint looks too thick and you've not got an even coat, also please tell me you're not painting straight onto unprimed resin
>>
Found a bunch of my old paints, dumped the dead ones, and plan on revitalizing the rest.

What do they call 'Vermin Fur' nowadays? I need to go paint-shopping.
>>
>>54624911
Depends, which generation you are talking about.
The hex bottle with white round cap? The old, old one? That's a brown.
GW currently makes a stormvermin fur that is a grey. They also used to do a vermin brown at one point that was similar to vermin fur. That was similar to Vomit Brown that was the generation with the stout hexpots with black cap.
The Vomit brown equivalent from VGC is Filthy Brown and the GW name is Tau Light Ochre, althrough the TLO one is not a close match I think.

So, I guess your best bet would be Filthy Brown from Vallejo Game Color?
>>
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Build the other four, tomorrow will be fixing minor things and gs work.
>>
>>54624324
Is it that Greenstuff World set of grilles and guide bars? Got one, it's very useful for smaller wires and hoses and such for my Admech, but don't try really long cables with it, since it doesn't like having to roll things in sections and is generally really fiddly. What are you converting? Def. best part of WIP projects, the actual painting can be boring at times.
>>
>>54625063
>triggering neckbeards
More like triggering anyone with good taste
Those look terrible
>>
>>54624217

I recall one dark grey, rest were already butchered by paintjobs (but with similar print-layers showing).
>>
>>54625063
the lower legs look way out of proportion

top row 3rd, is the best one since the large out of proportion shoulder armour at least balances out the lower legs

top row 4th looks wildly imbalanced
>>
>>54621523
Ace.
Where I could find some similar pilots?
>>
Does anyone have any imperial knights that they're working on? I can't get one yet so I want to soothe my itch by seeing someone else's
>>
>>54625063
>>54625132

I for one like the bulkiness, paintjob will tell whats what.
>>
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This is the first model I'm somewhat happy with. No wash has been applies, and I haven't tried edge highlighting yet. Picture quality isn't great, only have my phone camera.
>>
>>54625063
Lmao what the fuck
>>
>>54624583
Yes.

Also I should point out he's obviously not finished, not even assembled, I just blue-tacked him together for that photo.
>>
>>54625063

What am I even looking at here?
>>
>>54625063

>>54625132
>>54625160
>>54625233

Triggerings were had.
Just do your models the way you like them, I'm actually enjoying how they're turning out.

Feels good to see something else than space marine #61326 with texture paint base and edge highlights.
>>
>>54625282

but what are they anon
>>
>>54625186
Yeah, but the bulkiness is uneven and it looks retarded
>gigantic hands and feet with a tiny ass torso
>>
>>54625063
Holestly the only thing that really bothers me on these is that they're nurgle shitters and that you didn't use other heads or sculpted hair onto them.

Also clean up your chop-marks where you removed the topknots. those look shitty.

consider some small sandpaper for smoothing out the pauldrons as well.
>>
>>54625124
Chaos hellwright on dark abeyant conversion. Not using it for big cables, really. The biggest thing I'm probably going to have trouble with is massing cables at the base for "legs" like in pic related. Otherwise there are just a few portions where I'm not sure how to join pieces. Haven't done much work with greenstuff, but I'm hoping I can fashion a handle for a lance out of it for this, too.
>>
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>>54625282
I don't give a shit that they're girls, I just can't stand that Warcraft/Darksiders FUCKHUEG feet

Also your 'triggered! XD' attitude is reprehensible
>>
>>54625379
You can wrap the greenstuff around copper wire and use the molding plates on it. Wait for it to cure some (enough to not take fingerprints) then bend them as needed.
>>
>>54624146
How did you achieve that yellow color?
>>
>>54625462
Its just averland sunset.
>>
>>54625458
Thanks anon.
>>
>>54625379
Yeah, I got mine for DarkMech too. Mostly for joining conversion bitz together and adding detail to things, works well.

>>54625458

Somehow I did not think of that, I'll totally use that in future. TY anon, will make adding greenstuff cables to my DarkMech Archmagos with metal body a lot easier.
>>
>>54624324
Ooooh don't worry anon.
My first green stuff project (right now) is a girlyman conversion into a chaos lord.
I gave him a talberd and a Kanabo instead of emperor's sword. It will turn out okay if you just don't rush it! You have tools for the tentacles too so it will be just fine.
>>54624385
It looks good in my head, the more important part is if you can make it look good based on your imagination. I'd say go for it.
>>54625231
>Picture quality isn't great, only have my phone camera.
>5248x2952
It's alright but work on the shoulder pads a bit more.
>>
>>54625448
what the actual fuck? is this what happens when you cut before bulking?
>>
>>54625063
I never got the demand for female space marines. Space marines (chaos included) are fucking boring. Make a female guard regiment or something.
>>
>>54625063
not quite my thing, but I am pleased to see you enjoy working with your models in a way that satisfies you, anon!
>>
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>>54625599
Not the creator, but I'm more reminded of female reploids from Megaman X.

And there's certainly appeal to them.
>>
>>54625599
Space marines are the faction that gets the most attention by a huge margin. Half of anything interesting happens to them.
>>
>>54624146
cape like the other anon said
>>
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>>54625734
>And there's certainly appeal to them.
I'll just leave this here
>>
>>54625328
That is a style I personally like.
>>54625323
>>54625272
For tabletop purposes CSM, assuming I would ever get around to playing the game. I felt this way they work better alongside all my Noisemarines (which are normal and boring.)
>>54625160
Number 4 issues will be addressed with the base.
>>54625336
What did you think I meant with fixing minor things and greenstuff work to be done tomorrow. There is no need to do something about the clipping marks, if I'm putting modeling mass above it anyways. Not sure about filing down the pauldrons though.
>>
>>54624146
Add a fancy banner on the power pack.
>>
>>54625905
I appreciate the effort but they're very Black Legion flavored and I hate Abby and his kids.

Also the rerebraces are too thick, or the vambraces too small.

I bet they're metal or resin monopose models, too.
>>
Anyone here a professional sculptor or very talented enthusiast looking for commission work? I have a difficult cloak I want done and have moneys. Contact me at Boss#2436 on discord
>>
>>54625063
THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKIN'
>>
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>>54624146
>Reposting because no replies last time
That feel.

Except it's worse when good shit is posted. Not many goodpainters post anymore because of it.
>>
>>54626577
GRAINY
R
A
I
N
Y

Also, anyone ever had experience with shapeways? There are lots of bits, but barely any real picture, only 3D renders. How's the quality?
>>
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How would I go about making a noseless face? I want my Archon to have no nose like he lost it from taking too much space cocaine or he cut it off because he's a kinky bastard or he has space syphillis.

Is there a good zombie head I can use greenstuff some elf ears on to? Or am I going to have to drill into his face and sculpt a nasal cavity with green stuff.
>>
>>54626615
Depends on what you're willing to pay for. Frosted Ultra Detail has great detail, but is pricey and there might be some crustiness on the detail. The cheaper you go, the less detailed but more durable the models get.

I think it's worth it for a piece or two, but certainly not for a whole list.
>>
>>54626721
Well, I'm just looking for shoulderpads and maybe some icons, so that is that.
Price isn't really a problem. One has to deal with the costs of the hobby anyway.
>>
What's a good product to clean spray primer off of CONCRETE? I've been priming on my balcony the last year or so and I haven't been too careful with using newspaper underneath so there's primer showing here and there.
>>
Someone please spoonfeed me a Farsight Enclaves paint scheme.
I don't really know what to do for the grey, or what to do for the soft bits.
>>
>>54626901
regular old bleach should do it mane
>>
>>54626861
Well, I haven't purchased shoulderpads, but I have bought some not-Battlefleet Gothic, and they were quite lovely. I say go for it - seems like it'd be hard to fuck up shoulderpads.
>>
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>>54627020
Do this
>>
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1 set of duplicate cultists from DV, thinking of painting the next set mostly blue/green

Sadly I don't have a lighter brown than Rhinox Hide that isn't extremely light like Zandri dust so I couldn't drybush some of the edges so the brown looks incredibly flat and dark

Happy still i'm happy with how they look as general practice models for now
>>
>>54626657
I would convert an existing head. It won't be hard.

Cut off the nose with a knife, drill a small hole, and then sculpt a tiny upside-down V.
>>
>>54626615
>>54626861
If the product is Frosted Ultra or Frosted Extreme it will come out decent. Don't settle for another material when it comes to miniatures.
>>
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>>54621551
>>54621552
>>54621553
>>54622179
>>54623778

Thanks guys!

>>54621581
It amaze me when someone remember any of my minitures, thanks!

>>54621610

The euro cents are a little smaller than the pennies. I painted him the same way that I paint bigger miniatures; use a (really) good brush, do the priming using an airbrush and a light color (I use Vallejo's gray priming for airbrush) so you can see the details and don't focus too much in the lights.

Good luck!

>>54624279

I didn't even looked there, but I have just checked and they seem pretty cool beyond their interest for the robowaifus!

>>54624389

I bought some on ebay; try search "gundam metal parts" or "gundam metal details". The screws are quite nice for the scenery. Also, you can go for the cheap version and buy some CI socket (rounds), just cut the plastic and use the metal parts as air vents.

>>54625176

They came with the Gundam MG and RG models. Most people don't use them, so it's possible to find lots of them if you ask for them in gunpla forums.
>>
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started converting an inquisitor from a set of historical knights, I still have to get some greenstuff so I can make his armor look more like power armor, but does the bolt pistol look too big and ridiculous. It looks chunky on him but I don't know, I kind of like the way it looks on him. What does /wipg/ think?
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>>54627549
Another angle
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>>54627549
That will break his wrist, forearm, elbow, and shoulder when he fires it.
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Anyone else having issues with the 10 man Reivers kit? I've had a few, namely that the god damn shoulder pads don't even fit.
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>>54627240
Well, if they can do ships well enough, then shoulderpads shouldn't be a problem.
>>54627475
They are only available in these materialy anyway, but thanks.
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>>54627597
Bolters fire a gyrojet round, gyrojets have almost no kickback.
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>>54627549
How does your dude compare in size to other 40k models? Is that an astartes bolt pistol or one of the guard ones? I
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>>54625063

Not triggered but they don't look good anon
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>>54623245

just think of the market for 3rd party casters to do a bunch of terminator/primaris sized legs so that people can convert existing marines into truescale. (similar to the longer deathwatch legs)
why is this not more of a thing?
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>>54626577

LESS IS MORE when it comes to weathering, strip and repaint
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>>54621916
I like it, clearly an HQ from a more civilized age
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>>54627785
What's the best way to strip it? Just like sand it, or paint thinner, or what? `
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>>54626577

>church on the base
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So I started building some Space Marine Scouts for a SWA kill team today and I've gotta say, I love these sculpts. I like them more than the regular Marines in full power armor. I don't like the heads though so I used some regular space marine heads and I ordered some third party heads online that I'm still waiting for.
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>>54627752
The Bolt pistol is from the Space Marine Scouts set, and height wise he's the same height as the old marine models, though he looks smaller because he has leaner proportions.
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>>54627549
i like the model as a base and the gun looks ok but you might want a fancy poncho or something on him
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>>54627916
I'm going to try to greenstuff some fur on his shoulders like what the Warriors of Chaos have and then I'm going to also add a tabbard on the front, as well as various cables and stuff. He's still in the very early stages right now.
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>>54627903
>old marine models
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While at the LGS today, I asked a grizzled neckbeard for 3 painting/modeling tips for beginners, since I'm just getting into the hobby.

His tips were:

>Thin your paints
>Remove your moldlines and clip marks
>Don't prime at night

Okay. The first two make sense, but what the flying fuck is up with that third one? The guy was walking out the door when I asked so I didn't get the follow up, and the clerk had no idea either.
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>>54627969
well, old compared to the new Primaris stuff
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>>54627903
>height wise he's the same height as the old marine models
So literally smaller than modern tempestus scions. Gotcha.
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Painted a Raven Guard manlet librarian though from this angle looks like a Smurf.
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>>54627993
They mostly come out at night.
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>>54628015
What's with the gold trim on a Raven Guard model? Making that white would make it easier to tell his chapter.
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>>54625462
Just dip that fucker in the fucking pot my man. Don't do anything with brushes!
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>>54628015
Painted really well but why didn't you make his skin whiter?
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>>54627325
looking good
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My airbrush came in yesterday. Just waiting on the cheapo chinese booth they have all over ebay to come in. (not sure how necessary it is really)
Did I get the correct primers to shoot thru this thing? I'm unfamiliar with Vallejo line and this looked like the stuff I saw people using on youtube. I put a drop or two of flow improver into the cup, followed by a few drops of the silver primer and tiny bit of water.
My first mix was too wet and sprayed a horrible bubble into one of these bombs, but I retried it and got a decent coat in just seconds.
I'm stoked on the airbrush, tldr did I order right primers?
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>>54628007
Are the scions really that big? I just looked up a comparison and they look around the same height as the non-primaris marines
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>>54627993
Where in the world are you?
Too dry/humid, too cold/hot, too windy are all things that can fuck with your primer coat. Also stuff that flies through the air, like seed or pollen. You don't want that baked into your primer coat.
So depending on where you are he may have been alluding to that.

Other than that it is also possible that he just meant that you won't be able to tell what is primed yet and what not if you don't have enough light.
>>
>>54627993
harder to gauge where you're spraying
basically impossible to tell how good your coverage is
if something gets knocked off you'll have a hell of a time finding it
depending on location, humidity at night can also be a problem
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Just finished a Zombicide Commission for some heroes! Will post more if their is interest!
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>>54628124
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>>54627950
tabard sounds hard to pull off desu and i think he'd look more imposing if you keep him top heavy. have you considered the old scaly corsair cloak?
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>>54628124
Im sorry for whoever paid you money if this is considered finished
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>>54628148
That looks pretty cool, I'll look into that. I haven't done anything with greenstuff before so a tabbard might be very difficult to pull of.
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It might be a fuckin stupid question but is it safe to transport citadel paints in a backpack for an hour if temperature is around 35-40°C? I just don't know if being exposed on such high temperature for a long while can damage them somehow
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>>54628159

They wanted it done cheaply and quickly. This is more than some TTS armies for WH40K
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>>54628032

In hindsight, that is the best thing. I'll try to paint the thing on his back white pwrhap along with the aquila?
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>>54628176
Also while I'm here does anybody have any good suggestions for a power pack for my inquisitor? I was thinking maybe of looking for a recast of a SoB one but that might be hard to get hold of.
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>>54628206
should be fine
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>>54626901
concreate cleaner? check a hardware store
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>>54628159
this is a heavily trimmed IG vox caster duno if youve got those laying around
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>>54628062

Use the vallejo primers right from the bottle, you don't need to mix them to airbrush them.

Flow improver, water and other products are used to thin the regular paint.
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>>54625598
I assume that it's a horrific photoshop.
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>>54628408
Cool thanks. That might be why it seemed I had to pull the trigger so far back to get any primer to leave the cup. Or my psi was too low.
I had a boner from the very second some of that primer got on the model tho. no more tropical weather priming for me
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>>54628124
>>54628159
>>54628216

Sometimes people prefer to have something fast more than having it detailed.

May I ask; how much are they paying you for a mini like that? Do you have something painted at high level? How much time do you spend painting a miniature at that level and how much do you spend when you paint at your best?

I also do commissions from time to time, but I have serious problems painting at other level than my "best" and I always have to let go that kind of works.
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>>54626577
Nice and dirty
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>>54628124
You're doing it for free?
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>>54628519

Watered or thick, you never should have any problems pulling the trigger, do you wait for the compressor to be ready? What pressure are you using?

Show me your compressor and if it is one of the classics (the atlantis, the classic yellow one and the one with the black tank) I could tell you the best setting.
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>>54628604
You do realize that some people just don't want brown plastic but also don't need Golden Demon painting on Boardgame pieces.

Like if he wanted to spend 5-10 bucks a model then maybe I would wetblend the shit out of the cape. he just said to match it to the box art and I did just that.
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Working on some EC warp talons, unsure which one of those two should be the champion. Which one do you like more /wipg/
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>>54628678
sorry I didn't mean mean that it was difficult to pull the trigger back, just that I had to pull it further back than I imagined to get the paint flow started.
This is the compressor I have, I know everyone on tg said to go with a cheapo that has a tank, but I was able to get the airbrush and compressor locally and didn't want to order them as I only have a PObox on island. I mean I didn't just buy the first thing I saw, I looked at reviews and people were positive about this one.
Think I was running between 25-30psi last night farting around. I realize now why people say to go for the tank though, as it seems this compressor will lose a tiny bit of pressure in between from when I pull the trigger and it clicks on. As long as I don't start spraying directly onto model with first blast I should be ok?
>>
Has anyone used the Forge World Airbrush paints? Are they any good or should you just go with Citadel air or something else?
As well, are the weathering powders useful? How are they used anyway?
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>>54628728
Gotta go with the one reciting Hamlet in the middle of a battle. That's serious dedication to his art.
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>>54628814
Yea you'll be fine, its not like people are doing super detail work on mini's with an airbrush. I use mine mostly just to get base coats on super easily (especially nice since im working on some Imperial Fists). A few short blasts is fine to get the colors on, and lets your compressor keep the pressure up.
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>>54628814

Yes, if the pressure is constant once it star spraying, there is no problem with it. I have never tried that particular one, but having a tank just remember to let it charge before start spraying to get a stable and strong flow. Also, 25 psi (1,7 bar) is maybe too weak for vallejo's primer. I use 29 (2 bar) as a minimum for getting something like this pic (using vallejo gray directly from the bottle).
>>
Somebody stop me
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>>54629040
>>54629003
Thx, will try higher pressure. I've run into a problem thats a first for me. I seem to have painted last assembled model so I'm building skelegates today I suppose.
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>>54628705
How much did you get paid for each model then?
Serious question.
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>>54623595

I'd say that Dark Eldar is pretty up there, they're really slender models with lots of intricate details, if you fuck up highlighting they look shitty.

Harlequins are also very hard if you want to do the diamond patterns.
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>>54629163
What kind of gear does the character have?
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>>54629069
Dat's proppa...wait...

Not sure if orky ..
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>>54629040
One more quick question while I'm thinking about it. Do you mix anything with Vallejo varnishes before you run them thru the airbrush?
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>>54629572

I used that varnish directly from the bottle on this miniatures. I used high pressure and give them fast and thins coats. If you use too much, it gives a "hairy" texture, be careful.
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>>54628365
I've got one that I'm using in an objective marker, but I also have two friends who play guard so I might be able to get another.
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>>54629234
Might need to change the missile to some more ig ones, is that the problem?
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Still needs a LOT of work
Especially on the tank, but making progress on some squads

How are your dudes coming along WIP?
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started on my first Aggressor,
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>>54629801
He is little fellow.
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>>54628124
Did a blind kid commission this?
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>>54629817
for you
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>>54629687
those dudes are sick! I'm stoked on this airbrush pretty hard. I feel like I'm in the future now
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>>54629817
For you Heretic
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>>54628124
I suddenly feel a lot better about the Girlyman commission I painted
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>>54629107

for those it was $2.50 Simple base colors, washes and small highlights.

My higher end models (infantry) can be around 3-5 dollars. Larger models vary depending on size and complexity in both the model and paint scheme.
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>>54629873

Comparing a 90 Dollar model to one thats less than a dollar when you consider a Zombicide box is 90 bucks for like 100 Zombies and Heroes...
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>>54621570

Primaris are the way forward, gorgeous models
and more forgiving/enjoyable to paint.

Maybe practice on an old model you have lying around first though
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>>54630043
well it was 90 dollars for three models
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>>54630088
Ok, so a 30 dollar model. (just checked thought it was one for 90)

Anycase; comparing these 2 paint jobs is like comparing a car to a rock, 2 different things that have nothing in common.
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>>54630113
I understand that, but the thing is I felt kind of like a fraud for my commission because it was mediocre and could have been so much better, even though my friend thought it was great. Seeing that some people aren't taking commissions so seriously that they have to be completely perfect makes me feel a little better about myself.
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>>54629873
zero shading or depth to the gold.

i mean, i am not that good, but this seems really rough still.
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>>54630181
It is pretty rough, but I've already vented about it >>54630165
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>>54630113
It doesn't matter how expensive the model is its the paint job that is relevant.
My 20 Snapfit chaos cultists have more love put in to them and they were rushed in 2-3 days.
That zombicide guy has no mold lines removed looks like he got dipped into shade after a single Basecoat and then not even bothered with dry brushing after.

The person commissioning could do the same job even if he never touched a brush before after a few attempts
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>>54630165

Oh yea. I mean most people just want the paint on the model due to lack of skill or time. Most people are happy to just have base colors and a wash over everything and call it a day (And hey, if thats someone's thing do it up!)

If someone pays me to do a super epic paint job (Like yours) I would spend 10-15 hours just getting all the details and repainting over areas that needed it!

But hey if he likes it that's all that matters!
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>>54630211
well, you could offer to touch it up for him sometime (fo free), if you feel bad about it.

like another hour of work, and that model would look all the better.
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>>54630242
yeah, he was pretty impressed with it, which is good. A lot of my friends always tell me my painting is great because they don't paint as well, so I guess I shouldn't worry so much about it.
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Hey /wipg/, I have a conundrum. I've played Dark Angels for a long time. They were my first army. I have never finished painting the army however, as I had gotten out of 40k for a while and had lost a good number of my models in the move. I have since replaced them but did so in bulk (a mistake, I realized, hobby-wise), so I have a LARGE number of unpainted models. I had initially decided that I wanted to get a 2,000 point force of Dark Angels painted before working on anything else as they are my first army and feel as if I'm doing a disservice if they are not also the first army I get painted up.

But the new edition has brought with it a bunch of amazing looking models and I want to paint them up as well as they look like they'd be really fun to do so. The Primaris Marines won't be going in my Dark Angels Army per se, as they will end up being painted up as Blades of Vengeance, but I also want to do a force of Fallen for use in the Konor campaign. I also want the points for painting them up. There are so many things I want to paint, and as a result, I never finish anything completely.

tl;dr - Should I not really care what gets finished first in my painting lineup? Or should I stick to my guns as I have owned this army in some form for a very long time.

... and yes, I realize some people that know me may browse this and recognize me, so if they see it, hey guys!
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>>54630266
I might do that, but I kind of want to move on. Also that trim on his armor was a massive pain in the ass to paint so I'm not keen on returning to it.
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>>54630362
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>>54624147
very VERY nice anon. I like the mix, gives them a very organic look
>>
Trying to speedpaint my way through the test of honour starter box because it's one of very few games I bought to play aswell and paint.

Also got a 1:72 diorama to work on and my usual AoS28/inq28 stuff on the desk.

It is nice to take a refreshing primary coloured break from my usual routine of washes weathering and massively converting everything.
>>
>>54630016
>2.50
I don't mean to brag and I don't like posting commissions but I charged 2.50 a dude for this level of work...
I think you should have charged a buck or do it for free so you can practice your painting
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>>54630764
1:72 diorama without it's gandalf.
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>buy heldrake
>almost done
>now glue the arms to the drake torso...
>they keep falling off
HOW DO I FUCKING DO IT IT'S BEEN TWO HOURS I WANT TO SLEEP
>>
>>54630810
pin them
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>>54630793
And my Aos28 ogre, still on my desk until i figure out how i want to finish him off.
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>>54630824
Be careful when pinning them that the pin isn't facing downwards to much, this is causing my heldrake wing to fall of alot
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>>54627785
Nah.
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>>54627785
there's barely any weathering on it, do you have cataracts or something?
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>>54630810
You have to pin them, they are too big to simply glue. I ended up using some big magnets to take it apart for transportation and then had to use pins to hold it in position.
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Just got this stuff delivered and I like the mat a lot but have mixed feelings on the terrain I got with it. The paintjobs seem rushed/carelessly done, and there's a few bad spots in the resin. Overall I like the stuff but I think I need to repaint the terrain, any recommendations on what to do?
>>
Here's the final design. Need to add the other 2 rockets on the other side, as well as greenstuff gap fill. I will also put sandbags around the capola to hide the glue stains
So far, how's it look? Any suggestions before I finalize it?
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>>54631429
paint 'em

painting terrain is a pain in the bottom, but personally I can't stand pre-painted stuff
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Anyone know if any bitzshop sells any helmets like pic related? I got a flash of inspiration a while ago and I'm still figuring out how to make it reality.
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messing about with some extra bits, scion lasguns give some good scopes for stalker boltguns, grey knight terminator arms work well on gravis armor and apothecaries are dirt cheap
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>>54629783
I have that apothecary too, was working on it tonight
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>>54630770

To each their own; to me that level is 3 bucks or so.
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>>54632117
wow that looks really good anon, I like how you did the screen on his arm and the vials
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>>54632117
white looks a bit thick
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>>54632456
The vials were the gemstone blue over teclis blue if I'm getting the name right. The green was just green glaze over that bright new silver
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>>54632545
I'm going to lay partial blame on the model, but everything I do is too thick it seems. It doesn't look bad from an arms length so I'll keep going for now. I'll keep that in mind for the next round of models I do.
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>>54632558
ideas status: blood ravens have arrived

Thank you for these wonderful ideas brother
I must paint now...
>>
Anyone have any experience with reaper bones miniatures? I've read all about how some primers and paints don't work very well but what about sealing down the paint with varnish or something afterwards?
>>
>>54629801

Mine are on the way, I don't see why anyone would pick anything BUT the flamer gauntlet option.

Looking good so far anon.
>>
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Changed painting locations and am now attracting ants. Do ants like the smell of nuln oil?
>>
>>54625598
I just assumed he'd made it out of greenstuff.
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>>54632692
I got you dude. Here's 3 examples, all Reaper Bones.

Skelly man was primed with Vallejo black surface primer, applied with a brush. I haven't varnished him yet as I might do some touch ups.

The mimic (or mocking beast as Reaper calls it) wasn't primed with a normal primer. Instead I went over it with a thinned coat of brown paint just for a quick base (I used Army Painter for all of these) and varnished with the AP brush-on matte varnish.

The mushroom man was primed with white Army Painter spray, which worked fine on this and the bigger mushroom dude I painted. He was also varnished with the AP brush-on matte varnish.

I have no experience with spray varnishes but if you have any more questions, feel free to ask away
>>
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>>54633145

Ah sweet! Thank you so much your models look amazing (especially the mushroom dude). I just got a few more questions.

I usually use this primer in white & black, no idea how well it will work on Bones, also I mostly use the GW citadel paints. Should I just shell out some cash for the brands you mentioned?

also I saw this video and I'm worried that my paint will start to chip or be all tacky, did you ever have that problem?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enbNMyqJHRA
>>
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>>54621374

Reposting cause I'm a whore

Finished up some blood angels tac squad

Pls rate

1/6
>>
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>>54633371

2/6
>>
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I'm trying to get these crusader seals for my Black Templar, what would be the best way to do it?

They USED to be included in the forge world Templars transfer sheet but that is no longer sold.
>>
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>>54633371

3/6
>>
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>>54633371

4/6
>>
>>54633371
>blood angel player
>a whore

Its to be expected brother

They look nice so far
>>
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>>54633371

5/6
>>
>>54632117
what the fuck man? did you sculpt it out of chalk?
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>>54633371

Last but definitely my fav

6/6
>>
new dunc for those who haven't seen it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FqVJMBL-eY
>>
>>54633343
I wouldn't worry about getting new paints my guy, I'm sure the GW ones will be fine. To be honest tho I have no idea if that particular spray primer would work, maybe try it on a cheap Bones? I do recommend the Vallejo brush-on stuff but that's mostly because its been humid where I am and I'm usually too lazy to take things outside to spray often (I live in an apartment so its a hassle). It comes in black, grey, and white I think.

I also wouldn't worry about the chipping thing. The paint was a little bit tacky but a couple coats of the varnish made it okay. I specifically got the Bones skeleton for a D&D game where I know it'll be tossed around with a bunch of dice in a bag. Of course all the other players got metal minis which I kinda complained about because I just KNOW those are gonna get chipped no matter how much I varnish. I'm the only mini painter, a blessing and also a curse.

Here's another mushroom man since you liked the other one. I've posted it a couple other times on here.
>>
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>>54633474

Thanks
>>
>>54633443
where did you get that head? it looks slightly too big, or is it me?
>>
>>54633544
do you use the black bruhs on? i used the white one and i couldn't get a nice finish with one coat only, so i went back to gesso, maybe the black one is better?
>>
>>54633551

Just got it from the Death Company box, the proportions looked fine to me but keep in mind they're pretty shitty photos.
>>
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>>54629687
>Painting that guy on the end right now
>mfw put down the wrong base color on the face, and now everything is fucked up

I RUINED EVERYTHING
>>
>>54633591
Yeah I use the black one. I've used it on plastic, Bones, and metal. I forget where but I've read that the white brush-on isn't great? The black didn't go on in a completely solid 1 coat on the Bones mini but I felt it was smooth enough considering they're meant to be painted as is. I think a lot of it might be trial and error with these things, I would say just use whatever works for you.
>>
>>54632960
You have attracted the Hive Fleets brother
Prepare for a Tyranid invasion
>>
>>54633544

Thanks bro, you've been helpful.

I'll probably check my FLGS tomorrow if they have any of those products you mentioned.
>>
>>54632456
>>54632545
>>54633486
The /WIP/ gambit of emotion
>>
>>54633794
We are a complex community with many differing and dissenting opinions.

WIP is art
>>
>>54633591
Oops forgot I had some Bones primed and sitting around. This I think is 2 coats on each because I wanted full coverage. Might be one coat and touch up but I don't remember sorry

>>54633770
No problem, I'm happy to help!
>>
>>54633831
well thank you, but is it the photo or are they really so glossy?
>>
>>54633371
>>54633400
>>54633443
>>54633461
>>54633482
>>54633511
Beautiful work.

It reminds me of an army I saw years ago. I think it was by Egroll or Ilikebmxbikes.
>>
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First mini in a few years.
>>
>>54634033
The primer itself is sorta glossy? It's really reflecting my light in the picture. Once paint goes over it, its completely fine and not glossy though.
>>
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>>54634091
>>
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>>54634111
>>
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>>54634143
>>
>>54624146
>>
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>>54624069
If I greenstuff over the eyes they'll just look like the thing from the Hitchhiker's Guide cover.
>>
>>54623486
I paint a lot. you are wrong sorry. flat smooth surfaces are harder to paint well, than edged detailed surfaces. Maybe at tabletop or Duncan standard, then marines are easier, maybe.
>>
>>54627803
Just for you, wip
>>54628585
Thanks. I figure you can't be too clean looking when your job is orbital reentry
>>
>>54629762
I'd say they need launch rails, just grab some hunter killer rails of ebay and glue them onto the thing first, maybe also see about finding some sort of hinge structure so it looks like it can aim up and down.
>>
>>54633486
Actually I made it out of a brick of cocaine. The paint is made up of hallucinogens. I call it the Exterminatus
>>
>>54634091
>>54634111
>>54634143
>>54634160
is this a troll? why the fuck is there random splotches of orange paint all over that mini?

it looks shit and paint is thicc as fucc
>>
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Headswap is just having fun. Otherwise, liking how they're coming.
>>
Anyone got a conversion for Aggressors that make them look less stupid? I play salamanders if that helps.
>>
>>54635651
what about them do you think is stupid?
>>
>>54635651
Flamefists and no grenade launchers.
>>
>>54635665

oversized power-fists, skinny legs and the weird rod between them. they also look like their about to fall over, much like several primaris models before them.
>>
>>54635726
Chopping and replacing the fists with regular powerfists and having shoulder-mounted flamers will be an easy enough start, but the legs you'd have to either completely replace or use greenstuff to bulk them up. Personally, i'd replace the legs with something a bit more spread out and bulky, so as to avoid looking like you're too top-heavy
>>
Would this thread (or the next one) be a good place to post some WIPs/procedurals for some polyclay RPG terrain thingummies I've been experimenting with as masters for resin casting? For crits, advice and commentary?
>>
>>54636003
Yes
>>
>>54635651
I know these minis are getting a lot of flack, but I like them, yea it's kinda silly but not any worse then anything else GW comes out with and they look interesting to me.
>>
>>54624146

He looks like a high level sergeant/low level HQ.

If you want him to look like a high level HQ you need more shit on him. More bling, more laurels, more fancy filigree instead of a generic shield, not wearing generic Mk III legs.

The official Praetor model is wearing artificer Mk III. Look how different it looks compared to the normal Mk III.

I understand it's hard to find parts like this for 30k unlike 40k, so the easiest way is to add a cape like someone mentioned. Only HQs and important people ever wear capes.
>>
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Okay. That's enough of this crap. Time to paint something I actually want to paint.
>>
>>54636668
C H U R C H
>>
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>>54636936
My only regret is not having more church to give.
>>
>>54634111
>>54634143
>>54634160
were you going for a rusted armour look?
>>
>>54636668
that piece of wall makes them look surprisingly dynamic.
>>
>>54633621

Just paint over. If you are using the right texture, you shouldn't have any problem. I paint the base colors and then start with the faces; try to paint from the inside to the outside for avoiding difficult situations like that.

Good luck!
>>
>>54635160
>that banner
those had better fucking be transfers
>>
>>54627785
/wip/ is trash now because of people like you who don't post any content but shit on people to improve their own miserable self-esteem
>>
>>54629873
Don't
>>
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>>54621829
Try to lay down the strokes in such a way that the inevitably messy ends are cropped off by another line's edge, since getting edges neat is easier.
>>
>>54636668
I think the criticism of over weathering was valid. Being criticised is more useful than people saying "good" and "wow."

>>54638760
Looks like the weathering was applied by randomly dabbing the model with a sponge. Look up photo references and copy them (try looking up WW2 Tanks or SM models done by better painters).

For quick and easy I'd stick to the edges and add small amounts of silver/colour of cermatie as opposed to thicker brown.
>>
Decided to paint the sword black, all that's left is her power pack and I'll be done with my inquisitor. Thoughts? And how should I base her?
>>
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>>54639616
Actually forgot the picture, that actually happens.
>>
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A friend of mine gave me his first hellbrute covered in thiccccc paints, trying to do something with it
>>
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>>54639784
Still must thin that paint some more
>>
I like Leadbelcher and Retributor Armor but I don't like the price. How does Vallejo compare with their model color or model air silver and gold?
>>
>>54639848
It's alright. Quite enjoying Darkstar Molten Metals for golds, though. Still got a pot of Boltgun Metal to work through before I get to try their other stuff.
>>
>>54625063
I see Nurgle gave them the gift of elephantiasis.
>>
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Trial marine taken as far as I want for a non character. Probably going to redo the Hei Matau on the shoulder, other than that what do you think?
>>
I figure this is as good a thread as any to ask: What kind of glue/method do you use? The really thin cyanoacrylates seem to leave the smallest gaps and set the quickest, but since it's so thin the shit gets everywhere - including all over my fingers. I've tried some thicker formulations and while it's nice it doesn't run, I wind up getting blobs that are visible in joints and the set times can be problematic.
Anyone have some glue they prefer over others?

I've heard plastic glue should be avoided since it can really deform the piece you're working on.
>>
>>54640081
Nah m8, plastic glue is what you want to use for plastics. You listened to the mouthbreathers
>>
>>54640081
You won't ever deform anything with plastic glue unless you actually pour it over your model
>>
>>54639972
I'd probably do the blade in metal, or something else that wasn't quite so similar to his armour.
>>
>>54640081

Revell plastic glue is the key, it's the best you can get; clean, strong and fast. Also it doesn't get on your fingers.
>>
>>54640081
>The really thin cyanoacrylates seem to leave the smallest gaps and set the quickest
Are you using the BSI insta-cure? Switch to their other products, the insta-cure sets too quickly and gets everywhere. You'll just have to hold it together for a few seconds.

>I've heard plastic glue should be avoided since it can really deform the piece you're working on.
Plastic glue is fine, just don't apply too much and have it get everywhere.
>>
>>54640081
>The really thin cyanoacrylates seem to leave the smallest gaps

It DEMANDS the smallest gaps, as it's absolute shite at filling. If the parts don't fit exactly, it's going to struggle.

>but since it's so thin the shit gets everywhere - including all over my fingers.

Get a big needle. Cut off the very end of the loop for the thread, making a fork. Put a drop of superglue somewhere. Use the fork to pick some up and put on your model.

This goes for the thicker stuff as well. It doesn't make blobs automatically, it makes blobs because you pout a big blob of it on the model when a miniscule amount was enough.

>I've heard plastic glue should be avoided since it can really deform the piece you're working on.

Anyone saying this is someone you should never, ever take advice form on these matters, because he's either a complete moron or intentionally trying to screw you over. Smile, nod, leave as fast as you can without any sudden movements and get a restraining order on them.

Just stay away from the tubes. Get some Tamiya extra thin to be your default plastic-to-plastic cement, and some Revell contacta professional or similar precision tip stuff for when you need something that can fill gaps.
>>
Can I get some advice. I'm assembling some Deathwatch marines, none of the weapons will obscure the body. Do I attach the arms and prime? Or do them separately and assemble after?
>>
>>54639972
>>54639972
Don't take a picture with flash, it fucks everything up.
>>
>>54639616
>>54639626
You were going for a Blanchitsu style, right? Intend to use her for games on a particular table?
>>
Just painted some flesh and blood on my flayed ones but I need to make is glossy/shinier to make it really gross enough. What gloss should I use?
>>
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I was thinking of picking up just the body of Asterion because I wanted to use the head on a separate character. Anyone have/know a way to remove something like that?
>>
>>54640266
>>54640260
>>54640218
>>54640157
>>54640133

Thanks, anons.
I'll try picking up some good plastic cement.

What do you guys usually use for pewter stuff?
>>
>>54640641
For pewter I use two-stage epoxy and superglue to hold it together while the epoxy cures.
>>
>>54640612
It would be fairly tough with Moloc, as not only is the head attached by default, it's also recessed into the armor. You'd have to saw off the tops and sides of the armor to extract it.

I think it might be easier (and cheaper!) to try and find another, similar head.
>>
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>>54640081
I've used this since I was introduced to it many years ago. I'm fairly certain it can bond everything short of water together.
>>
>>54640829
That's what I figured, although I have seem some people remove the back part of the armor to expose the head, actually getting it off could be difficult/risky.

Just by chance, do you know any alternative heads that share the T visor style?
>>
>>54640930
Hrm. Not off the top of my head, no. You could search FW's catalog of helmets, or take a trip over to Shapeways and see what you can find over there.
>>
>>54641029
Ehh, in the grand scheme I'll probably just use the upper half of his torso the. The legs are easy enough to remove and the few things I don't like on the torso can be filed/green stuffed
>>
>>54641114
It's a pretty nice model, too. I've had him sitting here for a bit while I test out paint schemes, and the detail is damn impressive.
>>
>>54640612
Though luck, anon, the head is so deeply seated you'd have to murder the rest of the mini to extract it, nevermind resculpting the rear side of the head once you got it out. For that much effort I'd rather start looking for similar bits. I know some chaos warrior bits from AoS/Fantasy can be made into something similar with a bit of trimming and Greenstuff work.
>>
>>54639403
Yeah I may go back over with a light amount of silver to apply chipping into weathered areas. I think I went overboard a bit with the sgt. Appreciate criticism and the tip about reference images. I always get excited weathering.

"Strip and repaint" is pretty lame as advice goes for anything that's not already so thick it can't just be fixed. I agree that criticism is more effective than praise - I post here pretty much expressly to recieve it and improve - but anons are gonna lash out at you if you give only "you did x wrong. Redo everything".
>>
>>54640612
>>54640930
Alpha legion has a greek theme and so has some similar helmet styles, courtesy of Forgeworld or chinese recasters.

forgeworld.co.uk/alpha-legion-mk-iv-heads?_requestid=14142868
>>
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>>54641176
Yeah, that model has a ton of detail packed into it, was one that always caught my eye. Trying to do some true scale stuff soon (starting a rather ambitious project soon) but I can make it work

>>54641300
Yeah, the back of the head would totalled if not careful

>>54641652
>Alpha Legion
Speaking of legions, I'm actually doing pre-heresy Luna Wolves, so I will end up needing some Greek/Roman bits, but I'm also gonna need a host if fur pelts and skulls
>>
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Why are all the Duncan videos now using drybrushing for highlighting in every single video for every single model? Your stuff is usually great Dunc but it looks shit, I'm sorry. Were the drybrush paints not selling enough or something?
>>
Does someone have the tutorial on making Alpha Legion armor ? The one with several green/blue layers upon a metalic primer. I saw it a while ago and didn't save it.
>>
>>54628820
only used iron hands steel and calth blue so far but loving them. only problem is price and the fact that theyre not dropper bottle really
>>
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Anyone tried Typhus Corrosion for something that isn't metal?
I thought it might make good grave grime.
>>
>>54641868

Aimed at the new 12 years old attracted by the new super space marines
>>
>>54642244
>Typhus corrosion
>Drybrush pale green
Instant moss.
>>
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>>54625063
And now after a little work with modeling mass, which happens to be a glossy black, that photographs badly. I will only really be able to tell if the stuff on the pauldrons works out after painting.

Really should have done them one at a time. Doing the same step repeatedly just takes my enjoyment out of it.
>>
>>54640393
An Inquisitor for Shadow War and hopefully 8th ed when they release a proper Inquisition codex as if.
>>
>>54642518
What brand of twopart epoxy are you using?

And honestly, it looks kinda shitty work. With hair, less is more, otherwise you end up making the head look huge.
>>
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Could use some advice on the white shoulder pads of these guys. While they don't look quite as bad in person they do stick out a bit; I've tried a few experiments with washes but so far they've just made it look worse. Suggestions to make them look a bit more natural? Man, I hate painting white.
>>
>>54642842
Don't basecoat/primer with red or black on any parts you're going to paint white.

Just slowly add thin layers of white until the under-pink is gone.

For washes/shading, go more tan than grey if you want it to be less stark-focus.
>>
>>54642826
A mix between greenstuff and aves apoxie sculpt. The hair came out a bit too bulky, when I look at it again, but it works out for these models.
>>
>>54642936
>Don't basecoat/primer with red or black on any parts you're going to paint white.

Happily I didn't do that, I kept the shoulder pads seperate until the end and basecoated them white.

I'll try the tan wash; I tried grey but it was a bit too stark.
>>
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>>54642518
They look worse but I hate them less now
>>
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Still got some cover-ups to do and lacking paint for the purity seals and the eyes but other than that, how's this looking?

Weapon looks kinda meh imo but idk if it's thinned too much or too little

Also, how's the choice of colour for the weapon? Took what I had on hand
>>
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>>54643152
>>
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>>54642610
Urban terrain then maybe? Pic related is the closest Blanche pic I could find with inspiration material.
>>
>>54642942
You're not supposed to mix your sculpting mediums outside of intended A and B parts.
You don't roll greenstuff and brownstuff together because they're totally different chemicals and their meant for different kinds of sculpting.

Pic related is what people mean when they "mix" green and brown stuff.

Aves is kinda shit for minis, their product being solely about different mixable colors. It's really greasy as well, and for the extra work to get quality out of it you can just use typical greenstuff. (kneadatite/milliput)

Black is a horrible color for sculpting because you can't really see your work properly.
>>
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Name my Hive Fleet /WIP/
>>
>>54643289
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx47qrH1GRs
>>
>>54643289
Hive Fleet Jobberswarm seems appropriate for the current fluff. Looking good though lad.
>>
>>54633371
>>54633400
>>54633443
>>54633461
>>54633482
>>54633511
oi oi wheres my group shot
>>
>>54643289
Give some background/fluff if you want a thematically appropriate name.

Otherwise I've always wanted a Hive Fleet Kujata.
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