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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 333
Thread images: 86

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JOHNNY Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are on-route
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_uH54r0lP4

Previous thread: >>54508186
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>>54520768
Pretty much finished now.
I somehow managed to fuck up his power sword, so I'm going to replace it with a chainsword.
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>>54520812
and his back
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>>54520812
Looks rad my dude. The sword looks a bit flat, but I'm sure you could fix it with wash + sharp highlights to bring it in line with the quality of the rest of the model.
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What are you lads drinking to stay properly hydrated while painting?

Im drinking diet snapple in between sips of paint water to really get the creative juices flowing.while i paint some death watch shoulder pads
>>
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Obligatory muh first model post
This was the first 28mm model that I've done, and also my first attempt at edge highlighting.
Personally I think I could have done the following things better:
-Actually remove the mold lines, but thankfully there weren't many
-Edge highlighting technique. At first I was trying to use tip of my brush which resulted in some uneven lines. Later on I tried to use the side of my brush where I could to do the edge highlight, which resulted in more even lines.
-On a similar note, I could have highlighted more areas than I did
-Not hold the mini with an iron death grip. I was holding it so tight that paint sometimes rubbed off came off of the model, and an arm came off one time.
-I feel like a I did a sloppy job painting the Bolt Rifle
-The basing is pretty basic but I guess it works for this.
>>
>>54520990
>what are you lads drinking
paint water
>>
>>54520990
>>54521012
>>
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>>54521006
nice try duncan
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>>54521006
For a first attempt, this is awesome. Maybe green eyes would bring the helmet to life?
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>>54520812
Nice work, batanon.
10/10 display quality
>>
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Finished my second unit of skitarii vanguard. I got a few things I wanna do better on my other wip units but I'm very happy how they turned out.
>>
>>54521192
look great, I can't help but think black rims on the bases would look nicer though
>>
>>54521012
Sometimes after painting up a squad of dudes I take a swig, so that I too can share in the cameraderie of their colors
>>
>>54520990
Speaking of paint water, do you guys do the thing where you suck on the tips of your brushes to get the point back on them? Seems to work pretty well.
>>
>>54521492
Every modeler does that it seems
I do it too
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>>54521492
I don't
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>>54521492
I generally roll and pull the brush along the tissuepaper I'm drying it on, works well enough for me.
>>
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Cultist wip
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>>54521192
Beautiful. How did you get the brass looking so good?
>>
Is there an official guide for painting Grey Knights?
>>
>>54522047

I mostly followed the GW skitarii painting guide for the brass

leadbelcher > brass scorpion > agrax earthshade (which I apply pretty liberally) > stormhost silver (seems to result in stronger highlights than runefang steel)
>>
>>54521061
y-you too
>>
I'm trying to paint the screen on a primaris marines wrist, i'm a little bit unsure about the sort of effect that it needs, anyone able to post some to give me some inspiration?
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>When you just want to fucking paint your models but Amazon is taking their sweet ass time shipping your new brushes.
>When the supposed day of delivery the mail person posts a "missed you" pamphlet without ever coming to the door.

For fucks sake. I'm trying to paint 130 Guardsmen here.
>>
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Friends 5eva
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>>54522570
A delivery service managed to ship my packet from Spain to Ireland instead of germany. Fuck DPD. They're not ordentlich.
>>
>>54522846
While not this package, I've had the post office somehow ship my stuff to California instead of Ohio in the US. They somehow got my gran's info and shipped it there despite me never GIVING them that info.
>>
Hello, folks. Could you guys recommend 'priming' spray for white armor? Not sure GW's Corax White gonna have enough pigment strength.

One other time I used Mr. Resin Primer (light grey) and it was ok, but can't find it on ebay anymore.
>>
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Are large scale figures, busts, and other non-gaming models allowed in these threads, or is there a designated place for that?
>>
>>54523117
I'm fairly certain we take anything painting related that isn't straight up art on a canvas or something
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>>54523117
unless you are doing something better suited for an art board, hell yea anon, show us what you got
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>>54523161
>>54523147
Good to know, I don't have anything done at the moment, but it is in my painting queue.
>>
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also postan from 40kg, want to try some legion of the damned

how do you paint "realistic" flames without ending up with Guy Fieri tshirt paint job

I'm thinking base coat black, very thin layers of red, (red parts of flame seem to be somewhat transparent) and then moving up to the source with orange and then yellow, while using thicker paints and so less opaque
>>
>>54523209
>finished work
>work in progress thread
pick as many as you'd like, we're all friends here
>>
>>54523342
lots of yellow and white highlighting I would assume

the best looking flames always look like they are glowing and have only a few darker places
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I think I'm almost done with my second model ever. The flail/pistol/knife all need touched up, as do a few things like the boots where I accidentally put paint over previously painted areas.

I'm not sure if I really like this color scheme yet. I love the purple but the red seems a bit too much. The gray is OKAY but it's a bit boring, IMO.

Does anyone have any tips/recommendations/feedback? Also, is there a way to get a decent picture without having to go out and buy a ton of stuff to build a lightbox? All of mine always seem to come out super washed out.

(Also, I know about the moldlines. I primed all of my models before anyone ever mentioned them and don't plan to strip all of them to remove the lines.)
>>
>>54523342
I'd avoid actual flames and just paint cracks in the armour to suggest that all that within is fire. Simply because flames are pretty hard to get right on a flat surface when you are trying to give the impression of movement and all that.
>>
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Thought I'd take a better pic for you guys of the typhus wip I posted yesterday
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Just got back from the store with this big ol $60 pile of paint.

How does this look? I accidentally bought Straken Green instead of Niblet Green, but I think I might use Straken Green anyway, I'm trying to pull off the Pre-Heresy Salamanders Look, which is why I got bronze instead of gold, but I'm not sure exactly what paints I would need to make that shade of green.

Skavenblight is for Salamander skin, small details and highlighting black.
Stormvermin is for highlighting the Skavenblight.

Mephiston is for helmet lenses and purity seals, and also flame details (I still need an orange, yellow and white for fire, but I'm not worrying about those since I want to improve my general just painting skills before I do any freehand stuff.

Copper is for my metals I think, unless I want something else, I'm sure the store will let me trade out colors because they are cool, so I could get like Balthazar Gold or something, but I think Hashut Copper will look fine.

Screaming Skull is for purity seal parchment.

Waaagh! Flesh, Warpstone Glow and Straken Green are for armor. Like I said I meant to get Niblet Green which I was going to use to highlight the Warpstone glow, but I'm sure what I'm doing now.

I'm going back to the store on thursday or friday to pick up Nuln Oil and Leadbelcher and maybe some more colors, because they're getting a new shipment in and I asked them to set those two colors aside for me.
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>>54523666
Oh and the Evil Sunz Scarlet is for highlighting the Mephiston and for painting the eyes on helmetless Salamanders.

I'm wanting to get a look something like pic related but I'm not sure how to pull it off. Particularly I think the Dreadnought, and the two models in this pic look really good, and I want something as close to their look as I can get.
>>
Looking to support my LGS; what are some must have Citadel paints?
>>
>>54524276
Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, metallics, the technical line up, especially Blood for the Blood God if you want the look of fresh glistening blood.

Even if you want to cheap out an buy Privateer Press or Vallejo for colors, Citadel's washes, metallics and technicals are all wonderful lineups that are hard to properly find alternatives for.
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Tips for faces? My first Squad Sergeant looks like Stephen Lang.
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>>54524276
if they have Vallejo then buy those instead. Citadel are good for the washes though (Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade especially)
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>>54521061
>implying I would ever go out with a girl who doesn't thin their paints
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>>54525016
>Implying you would ever go out with a girl
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>>54525090
>implying I would ever go out
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>>54524840
>That white on the shoulder pads
thin your paints lad

But seriously the trick to faces I've found is a ton of slightly lighter/darker layers. Make yourself a wet pallet (this is important as it keeps your paints workable as well as allowing you to use your mixes on other minis in a batch so you do the hard part first) and put a glob of your Flesh paint and a glob of White/Light grey in the other.
Do the basecoat with no mixing, then get a small amount of white and the flesh and mix it away from both globs. It has to be noticeably lighter but only just, then just draw back what areas you paint so the lightest areas get smaller and smaller (the final layer will be on the tip of the nose and on the brow and this colour should be really light).

I usually then finish with a very light coating of Reiksland Fleshshade to tone it down a littler and get some nice dark recesses. This sounds trickier than what it really is, just trust your eye and after a few trys you'll get the hang of it
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>>54524957
>>54524408

Unfortunately they're just starting out and only have Citadel. Are all of the paints themselves forgettable and I should just focus on the washes/technicals?
>>
>>54525842
Citadel is fine, I'm just a big fan of the Vallejo stuff as it's what I've always had since I first started
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>>54525842
Citadel is good, just slightly more expensive and i dont like the pots compared to dropper bottles
>>
Best cheaper alternative to Chaos Black spray?
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>>54525976
buy an airbrush, expensive to begin with but it'll be the best purchase you ever make in the hobby
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>>54522605
Very nice. Would seek skulls with.
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>>54525976
This but in black
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Reposting my finished product because I had it upside down. Thoughts? Also, would I be a gay fucker if I used the lightning camo on my marines?
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Just ordered some Winsor & Newton brushes from the UK because they're so fucking cheap.
Got a single 00, and a boxed set of the 0, 1, 2, and 3 posted to Australia for $75 (about $60 USD).
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>>54525976
don't use Chaos Black spray. It's not a primer. Go get a black Rustoleum primer at Wal-Mart or something.
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>>54526042
>all the other colors cost 3.98
>black is $11
They know
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>>54526115
Just go to walmart why are you shipping primer
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>>54526079
DUNCAN DISAGREES WITH YOU CITIZEN
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>>54526115
I just use grey. Seems to work just fine.
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>>54526126
Because if I go to walmart I have to leave my house.

Humanity has been building, evolving, growing for years to come to the point where a neckbeareded weirdo can go for years at a time without ever seeing or interacting with another human in person.
>>
Is Papa Nurgle going to be upset if I don't bother highlighting the plague marines for now? I really just want to get them ready for playing (this is my first army) and don't have easy access to the necessary colors.
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>>54526162
ya gonna learn today, son
>>
>>54526205
Just blend my friend. Add some white to whatever you were using for a base. It's not perfect, but it works for some quick highlights to get your boys tabletop ready.
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>>54526078
The Series 7 are the best brushes I have ever used
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>>54520768

Can anyone either
A. Tell me where I can buy a fucking Eldar Solitaire
B. Direct me to a Not!Warhammer seller that sells Not!Solitaires
C. Help me kitbash a Solitaire (I'm usually pretty good at this but they just don't look distinctive enough to where I can come up with an idea that I'm happy with)
D. Direct me to Chinaman I can buy it from

Pretty please? Really want this model and I fucking refuse to buy from asshole ebayers who basically scalp the models.
>>
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>>54525137
>implying you can get out
>>
>>54526115
Not at the hardware store
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>>54526261
https://www.games-workshop.com/de-DE/Solitaire
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>>54526328

Home Depot reporting:
Black rustoleum primer costs just the same as every other color primer, ~$4 USD. I'd go for straight primer, though, and be wary of color+primer paints.
>>
>>54526382

Danke aber mein Deutsch ist nicht gut. Can I import them? I'm willing to eat a high shipping cost but I don't want it to take months to arrive.
>>
>>54526261
... why does that commissar have a tyranid claw?
>>
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Tried to paint Greyfax, not really sure if I'm happy with how it turned out. Also, can't figure out what kind of base I want for her.
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>>54526604
clean up the red details on the cloak. go over with black.

Highlight the gold.

Looking good anon
>>
>>54526435
>Can I import them? I'm willing to eat a high shipping cost but I don't want it to take months to arrive.
Yeah sure. If you order in Germany they'll send it to you. Used to be I had to order in the UK to get the books in English.
Doesn't matter to them.
I can't really tell you how long it'll take, but I'd assume it could take anywhere from two to six weeks.

I'm assuming you are in the US btw, cause the Solitaire is out of stock in the US store.
Note it say 'temporarily out of stock online'.
Kind of implies they're gonna make more, right? Unless there is something I don't know.

Another thing you could try would be just to check out local gamestore's inventory or other small online stores around.
Some are bound to have stock of it.
>>
>>54526723

Yeah I am in the US. What's happening are fuck heads are buying them out on the website as soon as they have stock of it and selling them at much higher prices. Can't get em on any other online retailers, not even Amazon, and all the FLGSs are out as well.

Thanks anon, I'll look around for a bit longer and if I still have no luck I'll just order from a Euro site.
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>>54526864
It's in store at the UK store as well, just in case it's cheaper in GBP than EUR
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BULLgryn-anon here with another update...I may have overdone it.

I couldn't stand that the texture inside the partially closed hand was wrong, so I dremel'd it out and put in some green stuff...and then I had to texture it manually.

None of my tools would fit...so I had to use a scalpel. What you see is after about two hours of trying over and over to get the right look; it's the best I could do.

That space is about 3x9 millimeters. I have never strained my eyes so hard.

And on all but two of the final pieces it won't even be visible once everything's assembled and painted.
>>
>>54527230
that's some dedication
>>
>>54524840
Angels Revenant?
>>
>>54526507
He's a plaything of the Laughing God, he'll probably change form so many times it would make your head spin, let alone his
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>>54526290
>implying I can ever escape the nightmare that is /tg/
>>
>>54527825
even if you do, theres only one way to escape the nightmare of reality.
>>
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>>54527874
There's one way
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I think I maybe over doing it. I'm trying to give my marine a glaze highlight but with the amount of time it's taking me just to do one guy I am wondering if I should just revert back to doing edge highlighting and save the glazing business for my HQs. What's your guys experience been with this?
>>
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You know what I hate more than painting camo?
Painting ebay rescues
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>>54523631
the conversion itself is kinda weirdly proportioned but the paintwork is insanely good
>>
>>54528151
Thanks, yeah he does look kinda squatty from the front but normal from behind

Thx I've been pretty happy with the paint work so far hopefully will finish the base and scythe tonight
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>>54528093
You need to be a little more careful with your exacto knife, anon.
>>
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Finished a squad of GSC. The amount of effort they take relative to the model count of the army is gonna kill me.
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Not WIP .. but do you think these are above table top standard?
>>
>>54528440
no
>>
>>54528313
I literally said in the post where I got it from...
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>>54528440
I mean the paint looks really thick but it's not awful or anything I'd say it's table top quality
>>
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>>54528488
Model looks fine.


What's that in the bottom right?
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>>54528440
I can see the effort but it's really too thicc to be above "standard". That chalkiness too, but that could be partially the lighting. Needs some diffusion.
>>
>>54521006
Painting some Angels Vermillion?
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>>54528488
>the blood
>>
>>54528502
>>54528451
>>54528696


This guy is giving me the hard sell on craigslist. But I don't really want a 30k army.

I didn't think they looked that great but I wanted to check.
>>
>>54528886
Well what's the price and how many models? Could be worth to strip. But if you don't want 30k anyways it probably isn't worth the effort unless it's a really good deal.
>>
>>54528950
Asking a firm 300 for:

Items included in this lot:
1 Librarian
1 Commander
1 Banner Weidler
3 Marines with various close
1 Mortis Contemptor
5 Catapharacti Terminators
10 Veteran Marines
5 Marines with boarding shields

Idk. Doesn't seem worth it to me. I'm talking to another guy who has a blood angels army with tons of tanks/dreads and things for 400. Much better paint too. I really want to work some primaris in so 30k wouldn't look right for me.
>>
>>54529219
Oh yeah naw that sucks. Even if you wanted the models, it's barely more than a calth and a dread.

Go for the BA if those are your options.
>>
kill the white man
>>
>>54520812
>5/10, acceptable tabletop standard

Just kidding, I wanted to ask why the "tabletop standard" has creeped so hard over the past 7-10 years or so. Used to be just 3 colors or basecoats only, maybe based. Now it's like if you don't have highlights and good paintjob it's not even tabletop standard anymore according to some people?
>>
>>54523147
I tried to get my oil painting critiqued here once.

Never again...
>>
>>54529346
Most people will say it's because there's more readily available information and tutorials these days, as opposed to more trial and error and magazine articles of olden days.

But ultimately "tabletop quality" has become just a meme. What matters most is that people of all skill levels can receive construction criticism and support.
>>
>>54529409
It's not like watching a tutorial on micron-thin triple edge highlights, NMM, or feather blending by hand makes them any easier. I'm going to guess it's because the skill ceiling has been steadily increasing, so that drags the average or acceptable floor higher, when really it shouldn't have moved at all. If a thousand people publish books on how to roll boulders, that doesn't make a 1,000 pound boulder any easier to roll for a beginner. Someone doesn't magically become no longer "standard" boulder roller just because more books came out, ya feel me?
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>>54529374
Post it homosexual
>>
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>>54529461
I do, which is why I proposed the first answer as what I typically hear when this question is asked in these threads.

The last part of my post is what I think matters most in regards to the /wip/ community.

I will say having duncan and other tutorials available have helped me learn lots of new techniques I wouldn't have otherwise figured out myself. But nobody sure as hell came out the screen and started painting for me. Practice is still the most important piece of the puzzle.
>>
>>54526261
Just convert one from the Harlequins kit and maybe some Deldar/DarkElf bits if you have them.

If you want the holo-pixel effect, it's stupid easy to make yourself from just cutting squares out of greenstuff. The hood is also not a complex sculpt.
>>
>>54529565
>mfw people think Duncan's best tutorials such as for WE queen, Archaon, Fateweaver, etc are barely tabletop standard
>mfw random idiots were complaining and asking why Duncan was making such shitty tutorials for the beginner's "get started" videos to go with Dark Imperium

and then you walk into a store and nobody has anything painted to begin with
>>
Ive been assembly lining 200 ork infantry for the past 15 hours

send help
>>
>>54529597

Thanks anon, but now I'm thinking I'll use the Tenebrael Shard or Mistweaver Saih and just do a little converting.
I went to the FLGS and asked if they could order a Solitaire, and turns out they have to fucking wait for the GW website to have them in stock. They asked if I wanted to pay now or when it arrives. Helllllllll no.
>>
>>54529638
Ganbatte anon-kun.
Don't go overboard on the horde infantry, choose specific aspects you want to pop (I.E. Skin, primary color, weapons), highlight those, and just leave the rest at a basecoat+wash. Save the fancy stuff for the characters or the Nobs.
You're going to removing a bunch of them from the table at a time, don't feel too bad.
>>
>>54529638
>not having a collection of 300 you've built up over years

You're gonna have fun painting all them over the next three months

If you're actually gonna paint em'
A-are waacfags actually starting to play orks? Is this real life?
>>
>>54529686
I wish I could

My autism demands my best work on every model, no matter how small
>>
>>54529701
>three months


Ill have them all done in a week desu. Once I get on a project I do nothing else until its done
>>
>>54529601
Honestly these threads had me intimidated for a while. I thought all my models had to achieve this lofty goal of a varying "tabletop standard".

Fucked me up until I saw more people posting what I was taught to be "bad", and getting positive feedback and friendly advice. You have to take everyone's opinion with a grain of salt.
>>
>>54529733
Looking forward to seeing them

We had a known waacfag come in the store and ask if anyone was still selling their orks on the weekend, since there were a few dudes who wanted to sell but had no buyers for a whole edition, sorry for doubting you
>>
>>54529743
Thin your salt.
>>
If you try your best and strive to improve then thats the real standard
>>
>>54529770
I'm gonna wait for a few more opinions on that, anon.
>>
>>54529802
You gotta put more salt so you get complete coverage. If it's a problem, you can always go back with the previous layer color.
>>
>>54528093
I did this with an oldschool metal hellhound from the store. All I had to do was wash the everloving shit out of it with Agrax Earthshade, and then go over everything with weathering powders. It's hard to tell that it was a THIN YOUR PAINTS store rescue if all of the offending details have been weathered as fuck.
>>
>>54529219
He'd have to pay me to be associated with that monstrosity.
>>
Havent bought anything new in ages but sort of want to paint again

>keep all my old shittily painted models from when i was 11-14 as they are , out of sentimentality

>that amounts to 60 space marines including 20 terminators

I bought some new ones but theyre finecast so i am massively cautious to paint them incase i change my mind as to scheme, all my old ones were imperial fists and yellow is a bitch, thinking blood angels
>>
>>54528440
God and Duncan hate you for that mini.
>>
>>54529829
I'm getting mixed messages here.

>previous layer mineral
>>
>>54529888

Imp Fists done right will always look miles better than Blood Angels.
>>
Currently trying to balance the colors on one fire warrior. Planning to pick up some orange paint to add that extra but of contrast to make it pop, then move on to highlighting. No idea what to do with the feet though with their weird boot thing.

Other than a bit messy trying to lay the paint, is the paints thin enough? i can't seem to strike a balance, or know what to really look for. It seems like 1 step above a wash is too thin, but trying to get anything thicker covers all the details, like the segmented parts on the guns and armor. I might just need to get more practice in.
>>
>>54529997
U wanna scrap son of dorn

meet me in the iron cage
>>
>>54528440
just thin your paints next time
>>
>>54530060

Your daddy got rekt'd so hard that you're all perpetually triggered.

Get outta here before I cast Fist.
>>
>>54529838

>metal

Or....just strip it of paint?
>>
>>54530117
Didnt even need a primarch to kill your dumbass dad

First he nearly dies in The World's Most Obvious Trap

Then he gets murdered by generic CSM
>>
>>54529997

I only ever managed to get one right desu, the rest all looked dirty yellow, could never get that glow.
The blood angels red does have a certain lustre to it though
>>
>>54529897
>>54530114


It's not mine. A guy is trying to sell it to me. I'm new to the hobby and thinking about buying an army on CL first to see if I like the game.

But yes they suck
>>
>>54530152

My dad allegedly died.

Yours is just dead dead.
>>
>>54530209

Can beings of the warp, as the primarchs admittedly were in part, ever truly die?
>>
>>54530183
if you just wanna try out the game, I rather recommend to get the first strike set from GW
it just costs about 30-40 bucks, and the models are snapfit ones, so no glue required
>>
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Going for Minotaurs but I don't want a bright, obvious gold or bronze. Want them to have a look of age and wear to them and need some feedback on it.

Pic related. Used Warplock Bronze and drybrushed it on, will use Retributor Armour on for the highlights and Sycorax Bronze for edge.

Also what's a good red that will starkly contrast the dark bronze and gold?
>>
>>54530232

Probably not. They either return to the Warp as energy or the Emperor. Maybe they're stuck in an ethereal plane beyond the reach and understanding of anyone but the Emperor.
>>
>>54530183
>>54530247

Best suggestion here. Pick up a box of First Strike or Know No Fear, this way you can get a taste of what assembling and painting is like. It's half the hobby really.

Alternatively, if you want a bigger army and you've got another friend that's interested, you could try go for the Dark Imperium or Dark Vengeance.
>>
>>54523666
>>54523768
Anyone?
>>
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Does anyone have tips on working with greenstuff to sculpt fiddly as fuck tiny things?

I'm trying to make a conversion very similar to pic-related.

I can probably make the general chest part relatively easily. However, I will need to sculpt the fucking rune armor on the chest area as well somehow, and I'm not sure how I'm going to do that at all.

If anyone has any suggestions at all, I would very much appreciate it.
>>
>>54530256

I dont know the names of many of the new paints from memory, although i suppose theyre not really new anymore, even the new paints i get i just put labels on with the old names so forgive me and just use a conversion chart or remember.

For gold/bronze i often avoid drybrushing, try layering and blending.

basecoat of scorched brown

then 1:1 scorched brown/shining gold

then 1:3 scorched brown / shining gold, leaving out the recesses

then 1:1 shining gold / dwarf bronze

then pure dwarf bronze hilight

followed by 1:1:1 dwarf bronze/shining gold/ burnished gold fine hilight

Wash with Seraphim sepia
A stark red to use is blood red, i think its now called evil sunz scarlet or somesuch, but it doesnt fit well so use red gore or a mix, which is something new now too.
>>
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>>54529461
they kinda do though, you're just blowing it out of proportion
you'll know exactly how to properly do it, which can cut down on a lot of trial and error. the only thing to do next is practice. The general level of skill has heavily increased over the years because of readily available tutorials, just compare the old golden daemon minis/youngbloods to the current ones.
>>
>>54530314

I thought about buying one of the new dreads and painting it. I've always wanted one for display.

Or the Dark Imp Box set to give it a go.

but yeah.
>>
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Reposting from about two threads ago, some of my new raven guard I'm building after 4 years or so of not actively painting. Trying to get as much stuff table-ready as possible for Konor Thursday, however I am unfortunately missing actual fleshtone colors, tried to throw something together.

Also this is my first attempt at edge highlighting on the sarge.
>>
>>54523666

>how do paints look

like paints?
>>
>>54523666
>>54523768

Not an expert but really the only way to know is for you to test out the paints and see whether you like the colours and combinations.

If you don't have a spare miniature to test on, just use the sprue.

Skin > Skavenblight > Stormvermin

Eyes & Flames > Mephiston Red > Evil Sunz Scarlet

Parchments > Screaming Skulls

Armor > Waaagh! Flesh > Warpstone Glow / Niblet Green > Straken Green

Better list out your colours instead of having long explanations.
>>
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Holy Fuck Telemon Dreads are massive. I loved how easy it was to build
>>
>>54530371

I've made do with few paints before, to be honest you can get good results with very few base paints, although it has to be said that you do need a certain amount of base paints of different tones from the primary colours.

You can make do for flesh quite easily, with mixtures of red, white, browns/yellows and variably blue/ purple in order to make fleshtone colours.
1 part red, 1 part brown makes for a good base, then add on lighter browns and whites, dashes of bronzed yellow can help ease the transition to the finer hilights.
Then Add a wash of purple or just watered down regular purple around the eyes.

Also your flesh does look quite good, for raven guard are very pale by nature
>>
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>>54530363

Looked up the conversion chart

Scorched Brown = Rhinox Hide
Shining Gold = Gehenna's Gold
Dwarf Bronze = Hashut Copper

The problem is I'm new to painting, so to do proper layering or blending is still a little difficult. I based the miniature black before drybrushing the bronze on so it looks a little weathered.

As much as I'd like to try messing with colours and blending, I don't have the budget to do so. I will save your colour suggestions and attempt them in the future though.

>Wash with Seraphim sepia
A stark red to use is blood red, i think its now called evil sunz scarlet or somesuch, but it doesnt fit well so use red gore or a mix, which is something new now too.

Luckily I bought Seraphim Sepia when I had the chance and thanks for the red suggestion. I was thinking of using Wildrider Red (which I guess is a new colour since it's not on the conversion chart) but that's nearing orange, so not sure how it'll actually look against the dark bronze and gold. I'll probably pick up Evil Sunz Scarlet (Blood Red) or Wazdakka Red (Gore Red)

Also pic related. The kinda look I'm going for. Duncan did a Tip Of The Day - Minotaurs Armour but it ended up looking too gold and too clean for my liking.
>>
>>54530364
>The general level of skill has heavily increased over the years

People just started using airbrushes and spamming NMM is all.
>>
>>54528073
It depends on how many you're planning on painting. 5 Guys isn't a lot but 20 is.
>>
>>54530485

Vat is das?
>>
>>54530712
t. someone who doesn't know shit
>>
>>54521492
I have 2 friends who hate painting who do this. Wonder if their is a correlation.
>>
>>54530773
The new Custodes Dreadnought
>>
>>54530360
why not just plop two big jiggly tits on her and call it "battle damaged armor" ?
>>
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Quick question WIP I want to get your opinions on a project I'm contemplating. I want to make some custom counts as penitent engines out of centurions. They'd be something like the conversion seen on the left, but with both hands as chainfists from Iron clad dreads. I'd remove the bolters entirely from the sides of the chest. The last big thing would be to put flame throwers on both shoulder out of the Kastelan Kit. I'd trim off the little tanks on the sides and fill in the gaps with green so that the one on the left and the right were identical and then use guitar wire to run tubes down out the back of the flamers to two tanks taken from the scions kit that would be mounted on the back of the model. Do you think it could work and would look alright?
>>
How good is Corax White spray? Any better alternative?
>>
>>54530575


rule 1: thin your paints

from there just remember to not place each layer directly on top of the previous , with the exception of the first two coats , in order to get a hilight/shadow effect, look to the raised areas and where the light would catch

either do wet blending, where you apply the layer while the previous is not entirely dry and try and gradually diffuse the paints. Or apply the paint slightly thicker then try and diffuse it from its line/area with a wet brush to deliniate your layers

There are a load of new bronze/gold paints out and desu i havent even started to get to grips with the new range of paints.

The result will look somewhat brighter and more lustrous than that, thats a very dull bronze and not entirely realistic


A heavy wash will really tone down the colour though, also depending upon the shade you want you may want to straight up apply dwarf bronze as a layer, that will make it brighter though.

I used to do base of mechrite red (RIP), then 1:1 red gore/blood red mix then hilght of blood red.

However they seem to have made scab red more scarlet as well as making it a base paint so i think that should work in the place of mechrite red, i think its now called mephiston red.
>>
>>54530964

I like it. Don't know about an alternative though i'm sure there is one, but I like it just fine.
>>
>>54530984
How strong is it? Like, how many coats do you need to hide all the grey areas?
>>
>>54531039

I can get it in one coat, two at worst in my experience.
>>
>>54530943
It does sort of just look like a giant suit of power armour so you will need to do more than just that, the flamers are a good start.

Just festoon it with purity seals and parchment, perhaps cut some out /model them yourself, use two long streamers to cover the areas where the bolters would be

Also add a brazier on top or some other nuts thing, the flagellant set (WHFB) is a good set for making crazies

If you have the skills remodel the head area and remove the roll cage bar things, remove the massive shoulder pads also

To be honest the dreadnought set is more suitable for making into a penitent engine, however your project is your project.
>>
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Any advice for making bright vibrant colors not look like Crayon? I'm starting to regret the blue and red color scheme.
>>
>>54531086

I know it'll look like giant power armor. Honestly I kind of want it to look like giant power armor. They're counts as penitent engines, but i'm not fluffing them as penitent engines.

Thank you for the advice though. The idea with the purity seals over where the bolters used to be is a good idea.
>>
>>54527266
I'd call it autism.
>>
>>54520990
The water I used to activate the almonds I had for breakfast
>>
>>54520812
>I somehow managed to fuck up his power sword
Wha?
It looks pretty damn good anon. You've done a good balance on the amount of blood an application technique.
>>
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Bases for my Deathwatch Primaris.

I'm worried about black trim and black mini though. thoughts on trim colour?

Inb4 moot green
>>
>>54531099
yeah

You need pastel colours to soften it, basically just add an intermediate layer of white, bone or grey mixed with the main colour you are going for, before you add a layer of that colour, perhaps add a small amount of white or grey to that next layer too.
>>
>>54530781
Post a single one of those "modern" GD winners that isn't airbrushed or use NMM.
>>
>>54531281
Lol even the fucking image posted in this thread has NMM. Way to fucking prove me wrong, dipshit.
>>
>>54531288

The fuck is NMM?
>>
>>54531308

Non-Metallic Metals.
>>
>>54523342
It would be pretty intense to green stuff some flames
>>
>>54531323

I fail to comprehend.
>>
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Some space wolves I'm practicing on. Lots of touch-ups to do, gotta drill the barrels, fix the really surprised old guy on the right, etc.
>>
>>54531308
>>54531335
It's essentially pic related. It's where you use special glaze-blending techniques with a specific color set to create "FAKE" metalics, with no actual metalic paint. Pic related was painted without a single metal paint, merely painted in such a way as to give the impression that it's an ultra-shiny metal.
>>
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>>54531346
I somehow didn't get the picture.
>>
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>>54520768
Hello father
>>
>>54531340
>making the lenses blue on the blue-grey armour

other than that its all fine and good really
>>
>>54531359
It's take your child to work day, Johnny.
>>
>>54531359
Scary.
He needs to go in the collage regardless.
We need to wait for Texas morning for Johnny anon to wake up.
>>
>>54523631
Concider swapping the lower part of scythe-handle? Looks bland as is, maybe curved/textured wood?
Proper good progress anon!
>>
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>>54531359
Outstanding.
>>
>>54531359
It's bloody perfect,.
>>
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I finished messing up with base for my Mega Dread. I'm really happy with looting grot.
>>
>>54529601
To be fair those tutorials that skipped edge highlighting were a fucking travesty. His tutorials are already easy so there's no reason to bring it down to babby level.
>>
>>54531883
Kids. That's it.
But he's done the serious version as well so who cares?
>>
>>54531914
Kids can edge highlight.
>>
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16 hours later and ive gotten the skin and clothes basecoated
>>
About how many models... or how long (continuously) can you spray with one GW spray bottle?
>>
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Alright WIP what do you think respirator or no respirator? Which looks better?
>>
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>>54531793
I'd absolutely love to be in the collage if I'm able

>>54531820
>>54531835
Thanks a ton
>>
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Test model for my Storm Hounds.

Meet Brother Gregor.
>>
>>54532063
I'm a fan of the respirator
>>
Ok so I want to paint ravenguard - saw the bits in WD - I want to make their helmets white - kind of ceramite white - how would be the best way to proceed ? Should I take my time and undercoat pads and helmet with white instead of black ? Should I apply ardcoat or something to get this shiny look ?
>>
>>54532086

You think it looks alright? I'm a little worried about it looking kinda rough or slapped on.
>>
>>54532179
I mean the picture is a little out of focus, but the respirator looks like a natural fit as far as I can see.
>>
>>54521061
smash my palette over his head and cover him in two thin coats of his own blood
>>
beginner here
how does /wip/ paint their models? in the sense that do you assemble them completely like Duncan? or leave certain parts off like >>54528073
>>
>>54531242
looks great imo
>>
>>54532376
It really depends on the model. If there is detail that I care about I leave arms off
>>
>>54532376
I paint mine on the sprue
>>
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Tartans be kicking my ass....
>>
>>54532376
You have to find a balance between sacrificing detail and convenience really. I assemble most of the model and if the arms cover the chest I leave them off. I'm probably gonna start leaving the heads off aswell. If you do decide to leave parts off you need to do dry fitting to make sure everything will fit together after its painted.
>>
>>54532171
Leave the heads on the sprue and paint them on there, either with a spray or by slowly undercoating them with celestra grey from black and work your way from there. White is a hard colour to do correctly so dont get discouraged.
>>
>>54531359
You did good son, You did good.
>>
>>54532427
A thin blue or green criss cross pattern the same as the white but offset half a square would make it legit look like tartan. Like the pale line in pic related.
>>
>>54532519
That is pretty much my next step. I can only get so much work in because the tedious straight lines are hand destroying.

I am using Vallejo German uniform grey for my lines then I will shadow the kilt with super dark green.
>>
>>54532085
I like the scheme anon
>>
Been away from the game for a few years. Got back recently and decided with a few friends to do it properly. First table to date.

Going for a city outskirts theme. The flat foamboard is city pavement, bordered by the road (sandpaper) and then will paint the textured surface in earthy tones.

Already ordered some cities of death terrain and other shit from amazon. Will update with a guide if anybody is interested.
>>
>>54532711
Full table

If anybody is interested, here's the guides im using and trying to replicate.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ7Nizz1lNU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6uh3_nJa2I
>>
>>54528073
Do it right once and be proud of your army for decades.

Feels good that I took way longer than I wanted to paint my DAs and 18 years later I still get people complimenting me on them every game night.
>>
>>54530371
Are those shoulder icons from shapeways?

I thought they would have come out smoother guess 3D printing still isn't up to snuff. Shame really
>>
>>54531854
hah thats a pretty nice touch
>>
>>54532667

Thanks! Its based on the unification wars Imperial fist scheme.
>>
>>54532063
Respirator bridges the gap betwee. The pauldrons, keep it.
>>
What scale are Warhammer miniatures? 1:35?
>>
>>54533050
Larger than 1:28 but smaller than 1:35.
>>
>>54533082
T-thanks GW
>>
>>54533050
28mm, ie. a 1800mm (~6 foot) tall man would be 28mm in Warhammer, so around 1:64.
But because it's "heroic scale" stuff can vary quite a bit, weapons are generally oversized for instance.
>>
Anyone has the Johnny OP collage? So that I add Primaris Johnny to it.
>>
>>54528679
>bottom right
>bottom
>right
>>
I need heeeeelp, /wip/. I need swarms and swarms of Missile Launcher renegades, and have found two moderately cheap alternatives to the GW kits.

First is number one, Mad Robot's Crimson Pak knockoffs. Good looking, but expensive.
https://madrobotminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9_27&products_id=163

The second is Ramshackle's missile teams. Cheaper, but less detailed and takes a long time to ship, and limited variety in pose.
http://shop.ramshacklegames.co.uk/index.php?id_product=123&id_product_attribute=0&rewrite=missile-team-3-man-unit&controller=product

Which looks better? And are there any more alternatives?
>>
>>54533165
So human chaosy rocket launchers?
>>
Have a made a big mistake trying to paint with white on top of a grey base paint.
I feel like I have to put on a bazillion thin layers and eventually some of the crevices get filled.
Should I use thicker paint? What am I doing wrong.
regards: a retard
>>
>>54533170
Human chaosy or close enough to it with a head swap.
>>
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>>54523666
Thx, I didn't even think about the bottom of the scythe... So I painted it like the cloth/wraps that are on the GW typhus scythe

And I finished the base obviously free hand
>>
>>54533130
Thats incorrect. 28mm is supposed to be the height to the eyes of an average man in 28mm scale. Warhammer tries to not follow their scale correctly though so third parties can't copy them.
>>
>>54533183
http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Regiments/regiments-heavy-support-weapons
I can vouch for Anvil Industry, it's cheap, quick to ship and the quality is flawless with just a tiny bit of flash that you can take off with your big meaty fingers.
Look up their infantry range if you want some more stuff.
>>
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Sup /wip/ I just finished the first batch of my BA tac squad.

I tried to go for a noble, angelic look yet also have them quite battle damaged and scarred like they've been through some hell.
>>
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>>54533239
>>
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>>54533246
>>
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>>54533257
>>
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>>54528073
Me, you and I've seen a bunch of other people in wip trying glazing. Pic related its my attempt, still need to finish the base, eyes and do the back pack and my first one will be done, was gonna do fists but I might do heraldry for a successor chapter like Angels of Penance or Libators.

Keep going for it anon! The ends justifies the means, I bet your army will look incredible when it's done
>>
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>>54533263
>>54533263
>>
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>>54533286

Last one
>>
>>54533239
>>54533246
>>54533257
>>54533263
>>54533286
>>54533297
Lovely work. I'm more a fan of carved in battle damage but you did good.
>>
>>54533239
>>54533246
>>54533257
>>54533263
>>54533286
>>54533297
Looks great, can I get a group shot please?
>>
>>54533472

Unfortunately not man shitty phone camera doesn't permit it but I'll be using a lightbox and a better camera for decent shots once the squad's done. Will post them here.
>>
Does anyone decent have a tutorial for painting tattoos/tribal tattoos. Looking to spice my Orks up. Could have swore duncan did a tutorial on them
>>
>>54533892
https://youtu.be/zqP8A-jv8mE
>>
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>>54521062
Gave him some last night green eyes, I think it came out pretty well. Did my first attempt at a gem effect too.
>>54528715
I wasn't trying for any chapter in particular, I was just painting with the colors I had available. Time to come up with a homebrew Blood Angels successor chapter.
>>
>>54531099
You could try gloss washes for that shiny scale look?
>>
>>54521006
>>54534137
You've really good anon, if you didn't say it was your first model i'd have never guessed
>>
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>>54532376
In subassemblies like that dude. It's especially important for space marines and other infantry who have their weapons across their torso blocking detail. For some stances it's not a big deal.

Pic related.
>>
Anyone got any recipes for leather, nothing I try seems to really look like leather.
>>
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>>54533985
>tfw retarded
Thank you
>>
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>>54531793
>We need to wait for Texas morning for Johnny anon to wake up.

Would you believe I already added it to the collage several days ago? I just haven't been around to start a new thread; yesterday was a 12-hour work day, and my brain was completely fried by the time I got home.

I'd also considered adding the "Eternal War Johnny" illustration from Epic and the "Covert Ops Johnny" illustration by Russ Nicholson to the collage as well. I didn't realize how prolific Nicholson was back then; he drew half the art in the original AD&D Field Folio, including the iconic depictions of the Githyanki and the Githazerai!
>>
>>54534532
I like Dryad Bark with a smooth wash of Nuln Oil, highlighted with Mournfang Brown.

What did the old Snakebite Leather get renamed too?
>>
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>>54534798
>What did the old Snakebite Leather get renamed too?

It's Balor Brown now.
>>
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What should I search on ebay to buy that cork... plate? sheet? When I tried ebaying it results were all like house floor or something.
>>
WIP how does one go about cutting and re positioning arms to change up a models pose? Never done it before and i'm afraid to try for fear I'll fuck up the mini beyond all reason.
>>
>>54534942
Corkboard.
>>
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>>54535007
>Corkboard
This is what I get from it unfortunately.
>>
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Didn't want to pay for a Skyshield Landing pad so I figured I'd make one. C&C?
>>
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>>54534942
>What should I search on ebay to buy that cork... plate? sheet? When I tried ebaying it results were all like house floor or something.

You don't need eBay, m8. Just head down to Michaels with a 40%-off coupon and buy yourself a lifetime supply for about $6.00.
>>
>>54531359
that's so perfect
>>
>>54534506
>first model
First 28mm model, I've done 15mm before.
>>
>>54530360
Caspar the friendly ghost on that snipers cloak.
>>
>>54530360
You could try sculpting the rune on a flat surface, then sticking it onto the chest?
>>
>>54534749
I might be updating my Johnny (Grey one) to have Red shoulder pads as I'm changing my scheme a bit Also adding moss / grass patches to my army's bases. I'll drop a photo here if I do.
>>
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basecoating this by hand was fucking ass, but the result is pretty smooth. It needs to dry well before I continue or I'll be leaving fingerprints all over it considering there's no unpainted surface left to hold.
>>
>>54533985
Is WHTV ever going to post full how-to-paints again?
>>
>>54534749
Really nice.
>>
>>54535249
They do when there are big releases. But it's easy to understand why they prefer to do small videos and showing only bits and pieces that you extrapolate.
>>
>>54535042
That stuff is quite thin and it does have a cardboard backing which can be be a hassle to get off
>>
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>>54535249
What I want to see is just a livestream of Duncan painting, going from a primed mini (or set of minis) to a finished piece.
>>
>>54535066
looks nice to me
>>
>>54535066
looks too....woodey

Also that mesh should be even, flush or not there at all


May make a cool coffee table though
>>
>>54535249

They did some not so long ago, with the Dark Imperium models, even going as far as doing two for each type of model (one for tableplay one much more detailed)
>>
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>>54523342
Mephiston Red THINNED DOWN WITH MEDIUM going down, Then Evil Sunz Scarlet thinned down starting a bit lower, then whatever orange-red color you prefer following, then troll slayer orange, optional yriel yellow, and a little bit of white. You'll achieve something similar to my salamander here, provided you paint it a tiny bit better (the shape on mine sucks) and maybe use a little bit more layers. It's a fun way to do it and looks fantastic in person.
>>
>>54534942
Cork plate or sheet seem fine. If you're polish (the products in the picture are polish so it could be that you're polish and took them from a polish tutorial), I got mine from F&F home which was in like auchan or some shit
>>
>>54535546
How do you describe a Salamander's mixtape?
>>
>>54520768
vox caster pre shades
c&c?
>>
>>54535636
It looks alright, but a lot of the detail is lost in poor lighting. See if you can get a better shot and do a little bit of white balancing.
>>
How do you guys paint unassembled miniatures? I see videos and pictures of people having them stuck on sticks or metal, do you need to drill a hole into them or are they using superglue?
>>
>>54535807
Wine corks make great bases for that. They are often pinned in a place that will be hidden when the model is fully assembled (this means some minor drilling is often involved) I've also seen people attach the piece to the pin with some Blue-tac, which means no drilling is needed. That is only for small, low detail parts though like Space Marine legs.
>>
>>54535848

Ah okay, I don't have problems with the bodies but looking at more detail areas, like the head and weapons, I was wondering how I could hold them without my fingers getting in the way.
>>
>>54533239

How did you make that base?
>>
>>54535936
Wire pinning lends itself extremely well to painting small detailed parts as long as you drill into the joints where the piece meets the rest of the model. That pin is also gonna improve the structural integrity of the model once it's fully assembled too. I have butterfingers so I'm usually fumbling or dropping models while I'm playing and I've never seen a pinned model break if I drop it.
>>
>>54535372
YES
>>
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>>
>>54536064
Just one more color and you can play in GW tournaments.
>>
>>54535372
I really want to see The_Duncan painting in his own element. He's said before that he uses tools and paints that aren't in the GW range. I guess he can't show them on WHTV, which makes sense. Would be cool to see him painting unrestricted though.
>>
>>54536080
so this is the power... of forbidden techniques
>>
>>54531242
Flat Grey.
>>
>>54536064
I want to say thin your paint but I remember trying to paint Iyanden guardians when I was a teenager back in third ed and mine looked way worse.
>>
>>54536074
You need to have painted models to play in offical tourments?
>>
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>>54536219
I used the methoed Ducan showed on the tip of the day, but look at these guys now they look off compared to the other units i have.>>54536259
>>
>>54536064
Look out, it's the banana men
>>
>>54536259
The minimum for many tournaments is at least 3 colors.
>>
>>54536384
Wasn't there somebody a few years ago who took primed models and painted three different colored lines on them, making them tournament legal?
>>
>>54532376
>>54532410
>>54532461
>>54534516
How do you glue them back together? Use super glue? Scratch the paint off the joints?
>>
>>54536384
Thats stupid
>>54536400
Thats badass
>>
>>54536439
Scratch the paint off
trust me, it works
>>
>>54536400
I dunno about that person specifically, but I know a guy who does something similar at my Flgs. He would rather play the game than paint the models.
>>
>>54536537
>He would rather play the game than paint the models.
Not who you're talking too, but I don't see a problem with that. But I personally hate people that play to win and freak out over touching his models etc. So many different people in this hobby
>>
>>54536537
But painting is like 95% of the fun of the game.
>>
>>54536576
I don't consider it a problem. We all get into this hobby for different reasons.
>>
>>54536590
For some people, the strategy and army building is where the fun lies. Dude has told me that he just sees his models as chess pieces. They could be strips of paper and he wouldn't care.
>>
>>54536629
>They could be strips of paper and he wouldn't care.
I've proxied entire games with squares of paper.
>>
>>54536637
There's that famous picture from the Gulf War that shows two Marines playing Space Marines vs. Eldar on a flattened cardboard box with rocks and pebbles.
>>
Personally I love converting figured but I hate painting them. I have very shaky hands, even when I try to stabilize them.
>>
>>54536660
kek I remember that.
>>
Seriously, how do i change up the arms on my minis? I'm terrified to just go cutting. How do I do this shit?
>>
>>54536712
Show us what you're trying to do exactly, and I will give advice.
>>
>>54536685
Try resting your hands on your desk and paint with your wrists touching to stabilise them. I have shaky hands too and with some practice, this method has all but eliminated that. Another bit is confidence. The more you practice, the less you are gonna worry about your hands ruining a piece and the more stable you'll become. You'll get there, anon.
>>
>>54536685
Man I have shaky hands too from working out and it's just a matter of slowing down and having patience
>>
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>>54536723

Basically I want to be able to change the positions for these arms. Especially the right arms. There isn't one specific position i'm trying to change them to persee, though what started all this was a desire to manipulate them so one was hanging at the side of the model holding an power axe and the other was pointed out aiming a pistol. Barring that, I'd just like some advice on how to do it in general.

Any advice is appreciated.
>>
>>54528093
i had to sand down about 2mm of plastic to make the side of a rescued hammerhead flush with the roof. who ever put it together really didn't care (also the smart missiles are glued stuck into the ports. its really fucking annoying)

but ten again $20 hammerhead is hard to beat.
>>
>>54535066
How'd you make the posters?
>>
Anybody have any tips on assembling a tac marine with a plasma gun? The stock doesn't fit with the shoulder pad in any configuration I can see. He's the last mini in the box for me to assemble, so I can't give him one of the "pistol arms" to avoid the problem completely.
Do I really have to remove the stock or carve a chunk from the shoulder plate?
>>
>>54537739
>Do I really have to remove the stock or carve a chunk from the shoulder plate?
Either of those options would work fine.
I don't think I've ever used a plasma gun with stock (I'm old...), but did you try all the arm pairs?
They come in different poses, so I imagine there is a possibility that one of them fits without problems.
>>
>>54537995
I've tried all of the options that aren't attached to to other marines. Didn't specify a particular air in the manual. Fuck it, I guess the plasma gun is going to have a pistol grip.
>>
>>54538110
The stock on the plasma guns always struck me as a bit weird anyway. I mean marines wear powered armor in addition to being freakishly strong to begin with. None of the other weapons have a stock, they are all firing from the hip and some models even carry heavy bolters underslung.
I mean if they can handle that kind of recoil the stock on the plasma gun is probably only for decoration anyway.
>>
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>>54534749
I've joined the hall of JOHNNY. Thanks anon
>>
>>54534942
If you are from Poland (what i assume from the photo) search for:
korek tafla or korek kostka on allegro.
15cm x 10cm x 0,4cm for about 1.50.
>>
>>54538236
I'm super autistic about things like this, and feel like I need a fluffy explanation for shit, so thanks dude, this made me feel better.
>>
new thread
>>54538295
>>54538295
>>54538295
>>
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Shit photo but what do you guys think of this design for an Iron Warriors torso? I'm sculpting as we speak and waiting a day for the green stuff to cure before adding the next step
>>
>>54531359
he looks a bit less like he's listening to his clip, and a bit more like he's using it to wipe away a tear
>>
>>54536439
As anon mentioned scratching it off, but you could akso just make sure to leave certain areas unpainted. For example i assemble my models with poster tack then prime. This leaves the areas that will be glued as bareplastic. Thats really only a problem if you're using plastic glue. Superglue will bind paint on paint fine, and should only rip off if you handle your shit very roughly. Even if it does rip off, you can just superglue thay shit back on
>>
>>54532867
Yep, those are from Shapeways. At least from a distance they look nice, and for Raven Guard I need something that's not painted black, so personally I'm gonna stick with them. I was a bit underwhelmed, though.
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