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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread images: 103

Work In Progress - "Givin' da Primaris Ladz da Stinkeye!" edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>In the face of death, I shall have no remorse.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_ZgyNoHtjw

>Previous Thread(s):
>>54233855
>>
Can anybody post their Imperial Guard schemes? Looking for inspo

Alternatively:
>choose my Guard theme
>>
>>54253683
oh shit anon, I remember ordering that from you!
I still have the guy, but not painted him as of yet.
>>
>>54254960
Black, white, and red
>>
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>>54254971
Glad to know it's not been thrown away.

I'm just sad I really forgot to take pictures of it when it was finished and "assembled."
>>
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>>54254923
When the FUCK are we getting normal Primaris kits? I want to make a Primaris Johnny
>>
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>>54254923
Reposting

How do I make a more defined edge in the face plate center?
>>
>>54255158
i am now starting to get into greenstuff, reading some guides around, do you have any suggestions or suggested guides?
>>
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>>54255158
Damn that's some amazing greenstuff work.
I've been working on doing some Warcraft orcs as a skirmish band for AoS, here's some progress on the Gul'Dan that I'm working on.
Never really played too much with sculpting. Do you have any go-to-guides or something like that I can check out that you may have learned from? I'm moving on to doing his upper robes and I'm pretty intimidating about getting the shaping right and what-not.
>>
>>54255373
Greenstuff.
>>
>>54255373
Scraping the underside of the chin with a blade maybe? Failing that you could always just add a ridge with some GS.
>>
>>54255373
the way would be carefully sanding it, but of course it's going to be hard as fuck.
>>
>>54255231
probably at the same time as the codex
>>
>>54255409
>>54255425
>>54255424
So it's looking like greenstuff ridge would be easiest method. Any suggestions on how to do that? I heard GS cures into a soft edge
>>
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>>54255403
Here's some basic stuff, there should be more in the links in OP.
Take a look at the Black Gobbo stuff there.
>>
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>>54255231
>When the FUCK are we getting normal Primaris kits? I want to make a Primaris Johnny

Well, it's not "normal", but if you were at a GW store around the time Dark Imperium came out, there was a stand-alone Primaris squadboy available. The GW in Colleyville, Texas, for example, was *literally* giving them away. This model (on the right in pic related) doesn't come in the Dark Imperium kit, and if you can get yer hands on one that isn't already put together and sprayed with Mephiston Red like mine is, you might be able to do something with it.

I had assumed they just put together some Primaris ladz from the box and stuck them on 32mm Sector Imperialis bases, but it is in fact a separate sprue with one model per - it even comes with its own Sector Imperialis-style base. I have a feeling we might see them bagged up and attached to the front of a future White Dwarf as part of a promo, and I'm kicking myself for not taking a picture of the sprue when I saw it last weekend.
>>
>>54255403
promise to keep us updated, I wanna see how it turns out!
also, I am assuming you're using the warchanter or what its called, but where are the horns from?
>>
>>54255579
Is that not the mini packaged with the new "Getting Started" book?
>>
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So, how does one make a really metallic looking blue? I need it for some bases.
I tried basecoating them with Leadbelcher and just doing a blue glaze, so have the metal shine through, but it looks like complete shit.
>>
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>>54255620
The horns are from Bestigors, I believe.
The project will certainly take me a while, but it's been pretty new and exciting for me to actually do some molding, so I plan on keeping up with it. I'll post more progress tonight since I'm off to go work on them soon.
I need to find my plasticard before I really start on Blackhand, but here's his start. Note I didn't keep the hair, I actually only took this picture because I thought it was funny looking (because otherwise there's literally no sculpting or anything special besides that tiny bit on the belt.).
>>
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>>54255403
>>54255158
There are a lot of guides on how to sculpt the sort of details you want, but my general advice is to treat the stuff like a mix between chewing gum and clay that you're sculpting.

Keep your blade/ sculpting tools surface moist (not overtly wet, as too much water will make sculpting difficult) and this will enable your tool to keep gliding and achieving the desired curves and strokes without the epoxy getting sticky on it and pulling itself with it.

And the other piece of advice is to build it in layers, and with patience. Such as this base I've been sculpting for the last couple days (ignore the yellow chunklets, I was the last of an old strip of greenstuff and the seam between the two parts always ends up semi-curing). It started with rough shapes, then I started adding major features and building around them. The head started with a sphere for a skull and an L-shaped chunk for the jaw. Then I began building major facial features like cheekbones and eyesockets, defining head shape, tongue, into the mouth, teeth, jaw, lips, eyes. Each time letting the previous layer dry and harden before I began doing another part.

>>54255477
Greenstuff only cures into a soft edge if you don't shape it properly. Carefully sculpt both sides of the ridge you want to form to get a sharp, smooth and even ridgeline.

But just in case, despite your efforts to get a sharp ridge it doesn't come out right, you can always carefully cut and sand the stuff to the sharp edge you desire once it's fully cured.

Brown stuff and magic sculp are better suited for sculpting hard surfaces and sharp edges, because they behave much more like clay compared to greenstuff.
>>
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My first miniature ever, did I fuck something up or so far is good? Also I primed the mini in the joints where the arms should be glued, how much am I going to regret it?
>>
>>54255799
>Also I primed the mini in the joints where the arms should be glued, how much am I going to regret it?
Not much, if you remember to scrape it off before glueing them together, or use superglue.
>>
>>54255705
GW and Duncan to the rescue!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QksrFJyT5A4
>>
So I was going over my batch of marines I got earlier today and it feels like the assault marines have been stripped? They have a few bits of blue and green on them which is fine.

I'm more concerned about the parts of the plastic ones that the primer looks bubbley and cracked. They also have this weird... rust color on a few spots where its glued together and one spot with like rust barnacles inside one of the assault pack thrusters. Should I be worried about this?
>>
>>54255579
>>54255621

Yeah, if it's anything like Stormcast

>Single sprue model used for free promos/painting lessons/intro booklet
>"Easy to assemble" 3 in a box, also used in the cheapest starter ala Storm of Sigmar
>Sprue of 5/10 (?) monopose in the full price intro box (think 40k is going to have a medium intro set too)
>actual multipart box
>>
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>>54255621
>Is that not the mini packaged with the new "Getting Started" book?

Huh. It is indeed! Here is the model and its sprue from GW's website.
>>
>>54255902

Not a fan of this new coloured plastic malarkey. I know it's for the kids but it's more brittle than the grey stuff.

Also, that Captain in the OP is massive. Must be like Obliterator sized.
>>
>>54255936
its not that new. they had colored minis in space hulk.
>>
>>54255936
>new coloured plastic malarkey

New? I wonder if I have any pictures of First Edition RTB-01 Beekee sprues that were made of dark green plastic instead of the vaguely-puke oatmeal colour mine were molded in. Second Edition ladz wuz da same way. Mine were grey, but if you bought the Space Marine Assault mini-game that GW released right at the onset of Third Edition, they came molded in blue (pic related).

>Also, that Captain in the OP is massive. Must be like Obliterator sized.

Yeah, he's absolutely mighty - about two Johnnys tall! He's even a head taller than the Primaris squadboyz under his command.
>>
>>54255839
Shit, that would be perfect.
Is there another way though? The tint set is 40€ at GWs, and my LGS doesn't seem to have it. And that seems a bit much for just painting some metallic plates on bases.
>>
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What are you guys currently workin on?

I finally decided to prime and basecoat a few of my special characters that had been staring at me naked for too long
>>
>>54256032

The fuck is up with the red paint?
>>
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>>54256028
Maybe you can use Vallejo "gun metal blue" then?
>>
>>54256046
Might be still wet.
>>
>>54256032
thick your paints. the red shouldn't be pooling like that.
>>
>>54256066
That looks like it could work. My LGS recently got those Scale 75 paints, noticed they have something like the GW tint set too, only a lot cheaper.
Guess I'll get both and see which one works better. Thanks anon.
>>
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>>54254960
I painted mine similar to the 122nd Cadian. This edition when I started Guard gave me great inspiration.
>>
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so, I have my intentions of converting a demon prince to resemble Pic Related.

I'm thinking of getting the regular Demon prince and cutting him down at the torso, and re-building the legs using parts similar and green stuff available. Now, I need help gathering up some of these pieces, and some of them I don't even know what to add in on. My main thought is to make it into a demon prince of Nurgle or Undivided.

Any help or Tips and tricks? is the idea sound or should I fish for something else?
>>
>>54256076
>>54256046
I prime by using about a 50/50 mix of a citadel base paint (khorne red in this case) and water and then I just slather it all over the model. It looks like it is gonna turn out horrible when it is still wet, but once it dries it usually comes out very smooth and doesnt clog any details. The honour guard in the middle-right was just primed this way.

so yea, the techmarine is still wet from doing that to him.
>>
>>54255936
its far from new. I have some ancient Genestealers that are in hard, purple plastic.
>>
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>>54256032
>>54256046
>>54256084


I FEEL THE WARP OVERTAKING ME BROTHERS

...It is a good pain
>>
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I've built my Blitza Bommer today and am trying to work out paint schemes. I'm considering doing it mostly silver like a f-86 with blue and white stripes over parts of the hull. But I'm worried it'll look too boring.
>>
>>54256150
Heck, the old LOTR SBG stuff was sometimes like that. The fellowship of the ring sets had gondorians and high elves in light grey plastic and the moria goblins in dark grey plastic.

I don't have a problem with it at all. Let's people start playing right away, and has no effect on you once you've primed
>>
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holy shit just found this at home depot for like $4 while looking for plaster

>paint and primer
>specifically works on plastic too

trying it out on some ammo crate scenery pieces and will report back later

fuck you gw and your $17 spray that isnt even a primer
>>
>>54256186
The trick will be getting it to look like that USAF 1950-1960 chrome look rather than just like steel or whatever.
>>
>>54256239
Definitely. Any ideas on how to do that? Vallejo might have something chrome like?
>>
>>54255373
Buy one of those new DG models with an old style MkII helmet?
>>
>>54256221
you don't even really need a primer, GW sprays stick well enough, but anyway your pic says satin, did you get that or the matte version?
>>
>>54256221
?
I think it's even in the OP that Rustoleum is really good.
Sadly not available in Europe. Or at least nowhere near me.
>>
Are there any guides for painting librarians/Techmarines of various chapters?

Usually its just for ultramarines which is practically cheating since all librarians use ultramarine colors

I wanna know where i should be using chapter colors on these guys vs traditional librarium/mechanicus colors
>>
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how difficult is it to use plastic card / styrene, im planning on making a weapon similar to this shape. any help is appreciated
>>
>>54254960
Grey uniform and darker gray armor.
>>
>fat, ugly NEET tranny
>still has orders of white knights drooling over here in every comment section

What the fuck
>>
>>54256310

Very easy, make sure you get the right thickness appropriate to weapons in that scale though.

With a round edge like that you'll probably use a file to smooth it anyway, but you also want to bevel the edge and maybe the odd dint to make it look like a believeable weapon and not just plasticard on a stick.
>>
>>54256286
The cans were either "gloss" or "satin", I have some loren forest I can do a quick layer over if its too shiny or looks wrong

Being less than a 1/4 of the GW price is also sweet, but they dont have any metallic sprays like leadbelcher
>>
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Finally found some time to work a little more on my Haeteroi.
Now that the shields are done and they are basecoated (save for bits of one helmet) I can move forward with painting the fuckers.
The base idea was to have them all look relaxed and unhurried as opposed to the Guardian squad, who are all running, and the Sentinels, who all have swords and shields at the ready. Not sure if I managed to really convey that concept, but I kinda like their poses either way.
>>
>>54256390

Everything alright mate?

Even if you've posted in the wrong thread I don't think that level of toxicity is good for you.
>>
>>54256300
>According to the guidelines of the Codex Astartes, the armour of Librarians is blue with gold and yellow highlights, regardless of chapter colours. The left shoulder plate of the Librarian's armour displays the chapter symbol in the case of power armour; for Terminator armoured Librarians, the chapter symbol is displayed on the right shoulder armour (leaving the Crux Terminatus for the left). The free shoulder pad displays the Librarian symbol, its exact form denoting the rank of the Librarian. Librarians wear golden yellow tabards which are edged with black patterns, the complexity of the pattern denoting the Librarian's rank.
From the Lexicanum
Although I'm sure it's somewhere in the codices too, although I couldn't find it right away. Probably the same for Techmarines. Red armour all over with the white/black Mechanicus symbols, chapter badge on the right shoulder.
>>
>>54256423
I was referring to >>>54254005, some anon posted it in the other thread
>>
>>54256418
I think it works pretty well anon, I see what you're trying to convey.
Are those shields original? I can't remember if they're in the official box
>>
>>54256480
The main body is from the shield, but with the wings trimmed off and replaced by those from the vexila (as can be seen on the guy in the middle).
I doubt it would work as a regular shield, but considering the Haeteroi I figured they might just be good enough to justify those. And I needed something to complement the paragon blades.
>>
>>54256423
>Everything alright mate?
>Even if you've posted in the wrong thread I don't think that level of toxicity is good for you.

He's on about GirlPainting (>>54254005 from last thread), which is so obviously *not* a girl.

>>54256300
>Are there any guides for painting librarians/Techmarines of various chapters?
>Usually its just for ultramarines which is practically cheating since all librarians use ultramarine colors
>I wanna know where i should be using chapter colors on these guys vs traditional librarium/mechanicus colors

These are from Second Editon.
>>
>>54256436
thank you friend

its too bad there arent any handy visual guides floating around but that blurb answered all my questions.
>>
>>54256404
right, is there a good place to get the material, like brand etc. not exactly sure what type of card people use
>>
>>54256390
>>54256423
>>54256455
hello chewies!
>>
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>>54256032
Slowly finishing some drewcareys
>>
>>54256693
Very nice work anon, but I think the gun could receive some more love
>>
>>54256720
Thanks! Yeah, still working - plan to highlight the black and metallic areas, and add blue glow to the barrel cutouts. Any suggestions?
>>
>>54256755
Personally, I think a hint of the cream colour you used for the mask could work very well.
Just a suggestion though, I already dig that colour scheme
>>
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Alright the techmarine's paint finally dried

See; nice and smooth!

>tfw bought white primed marines on ebay
>tfw painting on solid white is against the wip rules

Anyone know a good examples of painted mentors marines?


>>54256564

Thanks mate!
>>
>>54256418
Looking good. Love the use of Encarmine blades, and the Custodes vexilla as swords and shields, makes them look very different, almost older.
>>
>>54256783
I like that idea! I'll give it a whirl
>>
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>>54255231
The monopose kits are the new normal. That's what you get now. At best a choice of slightly different weapons or a couple of different heads, but don't expect anything more flexible than the current plastic characters for the foreseeable future for anyone.
>>
>>54256259
Vallejo's game air 'chrome' is very shiny, but it's not as shiny as actual chrome, at least over the base coats I'm using. Possibly it might work better over a really smooth surface or with some gloss varnish on top.
>>
>>54256310
Not difficult but really precise shapes, especially curved ones, can be hard to achieve.
>>
>>54256593
Depends where you are, but the main companies that I know of are slater's, evergreen and plastruct. Each of them produce a very similar range and there isn't much to distinguish them in my opinion.
>>
>>54256837
They said that old marines heads and pauldrons will be compatibles with Primaris, so i can expect a little more complex models.
>>
>>54256390
I know right, they should all be orbiting skinny trannies like Alexis
>>
>>54257107
now u gotta post more about this alexis
>>
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>>54257107
>orbiting

Gravity might have something to do with that.
>>
>>54256937
Researching the topic I found a blog that suggested polishing the surface with very fine sand paper can get a reflective finish. http://blog.nicnilov.com/2015/01/metallic-paints-for-scale-modeling-review-part-one/
>>
>>54257138
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdXDaHhvz5Q

Bet you can't make it through this not-even five minute video.

She yes I know has channel that isn't too hard to find and is admittedly a lot less awkward than this interview.
>>
>>54257265
I died inside a little I think
>>
>>54255518
>tips like "don't eat the putty"
Who is this from?
>>
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>>54255518
>come to wip thread with my green stuff and guilly mand model i want to convert into chaos lord
>fresh green stuff pdf
i love you anon!
>>
>>54256418
Question, what exactly are the Haeteroi in the Legio Custodes, and do they have bolters?
If so, are you planing to model them on
>>
>>54256132
>I prime by using about a 50/50 mix of a citadel base paint (khorne red in this case) and water
that's not priming anon... Priming requires primer..
>>
>>54257265
checked the video and another two videos on her channel. Poop.

That is all. Thank you for the assistance
>>
>>54257528
>>54257265
>Her
>She
>Her
>She

Hershey
>>
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>>54255403
Looks fucking good so far man, you gonna give him his Mountain Dew cup and walking stick?
>>
>>54257551
Anon dont be naughty. Also hershey is incredibly shit

Also thread related: Currently stripping the paint off SM and IG minis using methylated spirits. Working well but the grey plastic itself has faded. Not that it should be an issue. Also got DAS putty and gonna make a clump of trees for bolt action terrain. I plan on selling the stripped minis at a convention next month

Would upload pics but my internets shit
>>
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>>54256221
9000 points later says yes it works great as a primer. Im not >>54256221 but its great
>>
I don't like the short painting videos GW puts out now. The long in depth videos were so much better.
>>
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What color do I make these grey parts, I can't decide
>>
>>54255231
I hope they never come out, so Primaris remain forever locked into a handful of bland poses and gear options.

It's what truescale deserves. Uniformity forever.
>>
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>>54258005
Also need advice on the back
>>
>>54255579
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/getting-started-with-40k-2017-ENG

It's a mass release for next week.
>>
>>54258022
t. Manlet
>>
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Sorry about rotation but what does /tg/ think about this scheme? It's a bit more green irl but it's suppose to appear more human skin esque since I thought tying it into that many humans turn into them like poxwalkers.
>>
>>54256028
Buy a pot of tamiya metallic blue for $4. Think it's called arctic or something.
>>
>>54258053
>$27 shipping for a $10 product
Am I reading this chart right?
>>
>>54257557
I'll do minor conversions on the staff, and maybe I can work a cup in his off hand. Probably won't do shoulderpads, and he'll be missing his third set of horns, but we'll see.
>>
>>54258005
Glorious Gold.
>>
>>54256797
except you have lumps in the recesses where the paint dried...
>>
I'm trying to freehand chapter badges, It's not going well, am I better off getting a micropen or is it just a matter of practicing with a brush until it doesn't look garbage?
>>
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Which works better, the green or khaki?
>>
>>54259610
Practice with a brush on a piece of paper every night for a month. You should be fine after that.
>>
>>54259633
Definitely khaki.
>>
>>54259633
Green would work with a dark wash. Khaki as it is.
>>
>>54255705
Undercoat with silver then cover that with Tamiya transparent blue. Throw a couple light layers of gw blue glaze to help blend it.
>>
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>>54259633
Khaki works better for those, but If you wanted green fatigues maybe try not green armor or another shade of green.
Check out these color schemes another anon posted above.
>>54256125
>>
Wasp-anon here.
Tried some lamented yellow glaze over rakarth flesh with dorn yellow highlights.
Does it feel closer to waspy?
>>
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Faces/eyes guy from the other night. I just tried a quick mockup face applying some tips I've found(contouring namely), and here's what I got. I used a .03 micropen for the eyebrows and pupils. Still looks like a retard, though. Any tips appreciated. I do want to get better at faces, but god damn are they hard.
>>
>>54259697
>>54259796
>>54259950
I'll stick with the khaki then, I'll figure out something for the green for a different project.
>>
>>54260093
>are you a archon.jpg
>>
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>>54260142
Not as bad as my first attempt into faces a while back...Spoilered because it poses a danger to your sides.
>>
>>54256837
Snapfit models aren't knew, and neither are "Easy-To-Build™" models. They didn't stop AoS from releasing regular kits, no reason to believe 40k will be any different.
>>
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More or less finished a Geigor I bought for a fiver off ebay. Probably just use him as a generic wolf lord.
>>
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My first time using green stuff, thoughts?
Obviously a world eater rhino
>>
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>>54260464
>>
>>54260464
>>54260477
It doesnt look bad but nothing about it screams Khornate to me.
>>
>>54260160
Where will you be when the drugs wear off
>>
>>54260507
I think that was a joke anon
>>
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So I built my Mountain King, and there are a gorillian gaps all over the place.
I don't have a GW near me, so what's a good alternate greenstuff to use? Something I could buy at a craft store or something.
>>
>>54260558
Superglue + accelerator. Quick, dirty & sandable.
>>
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>>54260477
>>
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>>54260093
Try taking your darker fleshtone and giving him a sort of eyeshadow. Or black if you want to go with a feminine look.
Just do it minimally, though, only enough to try and clean up the shape of the white.
>>
>>54260588
You mean something to speed up the bonding process in the super glue? Couldn't I just use super glue by itself then?
Would that work in the huge gaps?
>>
>>54260666
Eyeshadow should just go on the upper part of the eye, right? I'll try some druchii violet on her for a bit of personality.
>>
>>54260692
The problem with straight superglue is it tends to run. That's why you put on a bit, put accelerator to harden it, then repeat until the gap is full. If you do it all at once without accelerator you might have pretty shitty results.
>>
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>>54260507
Just for that I'm gonna add a nurgle eye in the tentacles
>>
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thought I dipped my toes into models. Bought the 3 mini marine starter kit included the brush and paints. Figured it would be a good starting point whether I liked it or not before diving into something more in depth. Learned alot and had fun with it. Half the paints were old though so alot of the bases were too thick and only having one size brush made fine detail difficult.

Didnt come out great at all but once I get some good paints and a decent brush I think I can make one the looks pretty decent.
>>
>>54260774
The eye makes it too nurgly, you should have stuck with the khorne aesthetic.
>>
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>>54260780

Probably should paint under a lamp too. Because damn seeing the flash through my cammera make it look even worse than i thought
>>
>>54260780
That's the spirit. Get a better brush, take care of it, thin your paints and be neat. That will get you a long way.
>>
>>54260558

I've heard that aquarium epoxy can work. Supposedly stinks like all hell though.
>>
>>54259633
all green makes me think of korean war NATO troops

khaki is basically just the default cadian look
>>
>>54260085
Wasp/10.

>>54260780
>>54260819
Thin your paints. Buy a better brush. Use primer. Rotate and crop your photos before posting.

Other than that pretty good. The rest of what you need will come with practice.
>>
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>>54260795
Finished my Sanguinary Ancients arms and am now moving onto the shoulder pads.

I'm considering putting 2 Tyranid scratches into one of the shoulder plates leaning on pic related. I'm just wondering though if I should use a nice to score into it to make it look like claw scratches. Also unsure if it would be seen as heresy to leave a symbol of the Blood Angels damaged, lore wise at least.
>>
>>54260882
If you model them right after the latest events on Baal or mid-combat it should be fine, but marines usually get their armor prettied up after every battle.
>>
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>>54260558
>Something I could buy at a craft store or something.

The trade name for Green Stuff is Kneadatite.
>>
I wrecked some Dark Elfdar models with a red primer a few years ago.

(I've really come to hate colored primers. They don't seem to actually save any time and it's hard to paint flesh or metal over a thick coat or blue paint.)

A couple soak and scrub sessions with Super Clean and they're ready to be primed.
>>
>>54260910
Won't work out then. The fluff with this model is that he is a Veteran of the Devastation of Baal. He has some Tyranid themed stuff to him but I guess he would get his armor fixed.
>>
>>54260864
I was trying get to got for something similar to American troops from the 40's and early 50's. Didn't realize I was just making Cadians until I'd finished my first model.
>>
>>54260774
Struggling with a lot of greenstuff work myself lately....and that looks fucking fantastic. Very nice.
>>
>>54260875
>>54260838

My grandfather was a sign maker. I have two of his air prushes. (among other stuff like shit ton of gold and silver leaf and various precision tools). I always thought it would be cool to put that too use. Make a really really clean looking base. Ive heard that vintage air prushes work great they're pretty difficult to use properly and take a lot of maintiance. Is that something I should try out or maybe get a few more models under my belt first?
>>
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Working on building an ammo carrier tonight
>>
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And converting a fantasy flag to have the black halo icon I've used on a lot of my troops.
>>
>>54261096
Practice airbrushing on paper or plastic spoons first. And be abso-fucking-lutly sure to thin your paints before you shoot them out the airbrush.
>>
>>54261096
I'd say git gud first. You don't want to use an airbrush as a crutch for poor painting skills and you don't want to wreck your granddad's vintage airbrushes because you don't know how to use/maintain one.
>>
>>54260780
Can you buy that kit online ? I'm interested to get into the hobby.
>>
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>>54260696
Update, added some purple under the eyebrow and reikland fleshshade above the cheekbones. so far her left eye isn't too bad, but the right eye(picture left) isn't too good.
>>
>>54261178
https://www.amazon.com/Warhammer-000-Space-Marines-Paint/dp/B01D8KWT98

Dont expect the highest quality models or paint. But it is perfect for just starting out.
>>
>>54252556
>>54252558
>>54252633
>>54252712

I was asking about the paint job on the axe but that wasn't very clear.

Thanks for the responses anyway guys.
>>
>>54261178
You might want to wait for the primaris version of that kit.
>>
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>>54261187
looks fine enough to me, don't worry too much about making eyes super perfect. Unless you're like, entering a painting competition or something.
>>
>>54261251
I just don't want the rest of the mini to look half decent and then look like they've got an extra warp-fucked chromosome.
>>
>>54261301
Well, try working on the rest of the mini and see how it looks after you've filled more in. I often find myself hating parts of miniatures I've worked on, but once I finish more of it I come to like the way it looks. Remember, more colors on something changes the way other colors look to your eyes, so don't doubt a part too much until you're almost done.
>>
>>54261346
That one's just a test mini I was using to try out my new bottle of vallejo primer. I figured I would practice faces, too, since I have a squad of Wyches, some Hellions, and a Succubus to paint.
>>
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First time I've painted something in about 6 years.

I fucked up the base
>>
>>54260985

I mean, he could always be responding fresh off of a deployment vs. Tyranids or something, maybe there wasn't time for touch-ups. Generally speaking, you can rationalize pretty much anything when it comes to 40k. If you think it looks cool I say go for it.

I think it'd look cool.
>>
any recommend paint sets?

Im not that familiar with model paint but generally rule of thumb on most stuff is better quality online but cheaper price. As long as you can find a reputable seller. Amazon prime day is tomorrow figure I might check to see if anythings worth while.
>>
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>>54260774
I like the tentacles, it's a really distinct effect, I'm not so sure about the almost furry texture on the other side though, it doesn't look deliberate enough. Pic related is my nurgle predator if it can be of any inspiration, I'm no greenstuff guru like the guy in the thread previously.
>>
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>>54261491
Also painted another squad of plaguebearers.

>>54261382
Neat. You should be able to scrape the base edge.
>>
>>54261491
Tips on those weathering pock marks? They look perfect.
>>
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>>54261517
Okay good to know. I should just paint it afterwards right?

I just finished this today. Sadly I only have the standard brush and a drybrush so it took me most of the day to do.
>>
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>>54261491
>>54261517
Also posting a full army and WIP shot because I wanted to see how it was looking all together and I know how you all like spam. Slow and steady. Apologies for the file size and for the shit background.
>>
>>54261550
A dremel.

>>54261557
Yeah just paint over with black. I usually brush on primer first.
>>
>>54261578
I can't wait to see this all painted. great work anon.
>>
>>54261578
whats that greater unclean one? he looks creepy as all get out
>>
>>54261550
>>54261491

Seconded, would love to know for future projects.
>>
>>54261652
this guy posted pretty much the entire process of him making it, it was really cool to see come together.
>>
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Poor quality pic but is it better to go full purple or metal with purple parts?
>>
>>54261693
oh, its custom? the face is creepy, i wouldnt want that model in my room
>>
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>>54261684
See >>54261599
I just used a knock off dremel, cost me about 18 quid a while ago. It's messy because it doesn't cut the plastic clean out it just mushes it around so there is a lot of clean up, but it's a nice effect.

>>54261652
Home made, mostly out of green stuff and Maggoth Lord parts.
>>
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>>54260875
Thanks.

More work done on 'im.
Might need some advice on the arms.
Still waspy?
>>
>>54258029
if you don't know how to paint that "banners", I guess white with an Agrax Earthshade would work.
>>
>>54258266
looks nice to me

>>54261251
>tips fedora

>>54261578
awesome

>>54261782
face could be more waspy
>>
>>54261402
There's only one brand on sale, and I've never used it before.

Which paint is best is wicked subjective question. Quality can vary between brand, line, and color. IMHO don't bother with sets. Buy some Liquitex, Vallejo, Apple Barrel, and/or GW. See which you like best.

>>54261695
Metal, bonus points for multiple kinds.

>>54261782
Mask needs to be dulled down a bit.
>>
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My buddy did his first ever paint yesterday. What does /wip/ think?
>>
>>54261982
oh and the white mark on its face has been fixed. that was a mistake.
>>
>>54261578
an army shot every now and then is cool

Looking forward to seeing you tackle the marines.
>>
>>54257442
The Haeteroi are basically the elite of the custodes. Sometimes they are called the Companions and, after the Horus Heresy, were the ones to guard the Emperor's body directly.
They don't get access to Adrastus Bolt Calivers, the custodes' version of the standard boltgun. Which is weird, since the Haeteroi recruit from all three main branches of the custodes (Sentinels, Guardians and Sagittarum) and one of them is specialized in the usage of that bolt weapon.
>>
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Why can't I enjoy painting
>>
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>>54261212

This kit was the first purchase I ever made in the 40K hobby.

It is the reason my Mephiston Red colored homebrew Space Marine chapter (currently ~3k points) will always have three random Ultramarines just hanging out.
>>
Couple questions

1) outside of actual sculpted banners, what is a good material for making one from scratch? Green stuff? Paper?
2) is there an optimal size magnets for plastic models? I'm doing up some boyz and nobz and want a few that I can switch some stuff out on.
>>
>>54262465
>Green stuff? Paper?
The old school way is with aluminium. Heated plasticard is also another good way, if a bit more finnicky. Just google around and you'll find a ton of banner tutorials.
>>
>>54262465
Printed paper soaked in a mix of elmer's glue and water works fine. Just don't crush it while gaming.
>>
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wip Sorcerer and Plague Marine.

I hated the face on the sorcerer so I hollowed it out. And changed the face on the Plague Marine as well.

what colour should I paint the robes on the sorcerer? purple, orange, or dirty white?
>>
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>>54254923
What's a good way to make home made purity seals that are actually sturdy? Was hoping to replace a cape with a cape of purity seals but don't want it to easily bend and what not
>>
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Lord of Contagion /wip/ show case character and the rank and file will be done considerably quicker
>>
>>54261187
>>54261346
>when Snpachat can recognize a painted face
You know what, I'll chalk it up as a victory.
>>
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>>54262775
>It forgets my image
Fuck me.
>>
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My first skitarii ranger ever painted.
1/2
>>
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>>54261491
I'm gonna see how it goes painted before trying to add more mass and sculping
The answer I need right now is more eyeball and tentacles
>>
>>54262697
I like the purple innards
>>
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>>54262796
2/2
>>
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And besides the base, I think I'm done my first model in about 5 years.
Gonna work through my cultists and poxwalkers before i start on any marines to get the hang of it again.

Is it normal a model this size used 12 different paints?

C&C is appreciated.
>>
>>54262659
Depending on exactly how rigid you want consider either building something with structure to it, wire frame, plasticard blocking in major segments, greenstuff over all of it.

Or make something out of easily sculptable material and then cast the entire part.
>>
>>54262659
Have you considered just coating an existing cape with purity seals?
>>
>>54262844
Would something like a rectangular piece of greenstuff pushed onto a bent piece of paper clip work? I've also heard of people who soak cardstock in super glue?

>>54262856
Not really going for a full cape look. the seals will be attached at the base of the marine's collar and flow out in individual strands of sort
>>
>>54262626
I'd go with black hood or a dirty offwhite.

Great painting and converting.

Where is that head from?
>>
>>54256297
if you're in Europe your rattlecan choices are fucking amazing though, I would be surprised if Molotow didn't make a nice primer.
>>
>>54262791
The Haemonculus has gone too far.
>>
>>54262803
I'm just gonna go ahead and be the asshole of the group, since no one else seems to:

Its shit. The tentacles are smashed down, and look nothing LIKE tentacles. The texture makes no goddamm sense. The "eyes" looks more like prolapsed assholes than anything else. those tumors needs to be smoothed back so that the edges flow better.

really, your biggest problem of all is that you've fallen into the beginners trap of greenstuffing nurgle, something you see all the damm time, and that is that you simply garble shit together without any real form or function. its just a cluttered mess of what is "supposed" to be tumors and flesh. Greenstuffing nurgle is harder than it would appear, and just doing random blobs of greenstuff doesn't help in the slightest.

what you can do to improve is to look at what other people with more skill does, and try to imitate it with your own twist. Looking up images of actual cysts, pustules, tumors and the like will also help, though I'd recommend a strong stomach for that. Tentacles too, are just an image-search away.
>>
>>54262955
>tips fedora
>>
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>>54262527
>>54262593
Thanks for the ideas!

Still anyone have answers for an ideal magnet size for plastic models? Is it even possible to magnetize metal? I have 3.2mm diameter ones and they're not strong enough for my metal nobs and a big enough to make it difficult on some plastic parts.

Some old skool goff boyz for your viewing pleasure
>>
>>54262955
haha i appreciate the honesty
yeah im finding it easy to just let my hands wander and do random crap without thinking

but i'm going for a thematic thing with my nurgliness, not necessarily realism

but you know, i wont tell the judges that they arent anatomically correct if you don't
>>
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I am still finding transfers to be a complete and utter pain.
But I'm liking how this guy's coming together.
>>
>>54262289
Because you forgot to clean the moldlines.

Seriously go paint just for fun. Go buy an early 90's space marine off ebay or something.

>>54262433
How did he get two Crux Terminati?

>>54263044
>Still anyone have answers for an ideal magnet size for plastic models?
This is going to vary by model.

>Is it even possible to magnetize metal?
Yes, you just need stronger magnets because of the additional weight.
>>
>>54263136
Looking good. Where did you get that decal?
>>
>>54263212
Custom set from Fallout Hobbies. /tg/ linked me to the guy initially
>>
>>54263171
Thanks for the help anon
>>
>>54263171

>How did he get two Crux Terminati?

That was the first thing I painted after the Ultramarines and didn't know the lore very well. I just thought they were random pieces of flair.
>>
>>54263171
>>54263329
>not putting your Terminators in Terminator armor

It's like you don't want to overterminate things
>>
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Working on my Devastation of Baal themed Banner. Not sure how I feel with the head, spikes always come off as a Chaos thing. Also not sure if the tongue I made out of Green Stuff touching the banner would be considered a disrespectful to Blood Angels. I did consider maybe using the Winged bit on the side and cut off the button to put on top of the head, or remove the head, put the winged bit on top of the banner, then put the head on top of that with the spike coming through. Thoughts?
>>
>>54260093
>>54260160
My shoulders hurt


Fuck
>>
>>54261517
How do you apply your washes so nicely on the purple fellas especially? I've been trying out your method because I adore how they look but I don't think I'm quite getting it down all in one go.
>>
>>54261187
>just fuck my shit up senpai
>>
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>>54256414
I use a similar Rustoleum to prime all my dudes with so far. It has satin listed as well, its not as shiny as the gloss, but not as dull as the matte. The matte is better in my opinion (have it in different colors I used to spraypaint/prime SW terrain) but I've never seen it in black at my local homedepot
>>
>>54260464
>>54260477
Cthullu approves.
But as the other anon said, it doesn't look WE to me. WE should have skulls, dents, gashes, spikes, be brutal looking things.
>>
>>54263798
The world eater thing was sarcasm my dude. It's nurgle.
>>
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>>54261491
Jesus fuck it's disgusting. Someone bring me a plasma cannon!
Fantastic work anon.
>>
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I'm looking to paint my primaris in the raptor chapter colors. Last time I used castellan green as a base but its just a bit too dark. Would loren forest as a base be better for the color scheme? I found this image in 40k general and was thinking of doing them the same qay (thank you to the creator) any tips or ideas for the colors to use?
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Got some finishing touches left on this squad most obviously the banner

I've kind of got an idea of what I'm going to paint I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to do it as this is my first time free handing something like this. Any advice or examples for banners?
>>
I don't know if this is the right thread...
In plan on building a gameboard, I already have a lot of GW city ruins + self made ruins.

I bought 3 MDF plates of 1x2 meters (3.25 x 6.5 fts in burger units)

It would be urban themed, anybody know good ways to make convincing but simple & modular urban ground ?
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Building ork trukk from humvee and junk parts
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>>54263012
I'm just trying to help. It ain't my fault that the rest of you can't be honest.

>>54263087
alight. I'm hoping I'll get to see the finished result in a WiP thread, though!
>>
>>54261779
Damn that is awesome
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>>54262289
That's not bad anon
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>>54256032
BA Terminator Assault Squad. Finally finished basecoats last night. Washing right now.
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Hi WIP, how do I remove dried paint from my brushes? I've heard warm vinegar is a good method, is there any truth to that?

I know I have to take care of my brushes now, it's just that when I started out I was an idiot. I hope I can still salvage at least the base brush.
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>>54263522
I'm not sure I can add anything really to the tutorial. It's just pink drybrushed white then washed heavily with blue and a bit of water to help spread it quickly. A little sepia helps to soften it but I don't spend any time on it just slob the wash all over then let it dry. If there are rough spots then you can work on them with highlights afterwords. The shading under their legs and arms adds a lot too.
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>>54256131
I'd start with an Ironjawz hero- the proportions are right, as is the chunky armor.
>>
Hello there, I want to make a HUGE axe using green stuff. How do I do that?
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>>54256131
looks like you would have more luck converting an ogryn.
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>>54264480
Acetone on those, they're pretty far gone.
Just enough to cover the bristles and soem of the metal sleeve, too deep and the glue that holds the bush to the handle will dissolve.

Then to keep them good and bring some life back to the bristles, use "The Master's Brush Cleaner" soap. Use it on them after each session as well to keep them good, it breaks down remaining paint residue after a normal wash and conditions the bristles the same way you condition hair.
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>>54256131
Reaper recently release a pair of new ogres that look kind of similar in terms of anatomy.
Would only have to throw some new armor onto them to get to that point.
In general I think it would be a better idea to start with a fatty miniature, instead of fattening up the GW demonprince though.
An Ogre bull, butcher, firebelly or something like that would work.
>>
Are 32mm bases worth it?

Where can I get them cheap? Preferably ones with sloped edges like the GW ones and not flat MDF.
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>>54264530
>Ironjawz hero
might work, given the size is faily close to a Daemon prince.

>>54264614
>>54264726
See, the problem with using and Ogryn or Ogre from GW is that they're too small in stature to really count as a daemon prince.

I am unfamiliar with the size of the Ogres from Reaper, but they look like they could be a good starting point.
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>>54264597
>I want to make a HUGE axe using green stuff. How do I do that?

1)Take a smooth, clean plastic surface, such as the lid of a plastic box.

2)Combine enough greenstuff to get the size and thickness of the axe you want.

3)Get your sculpting tool and some clean water.

4) Place the greenstuff on the clean plastic surface and start spreading it into the general shape of the axe head you want. Using water and a sculpting tool, you can achieve a clean surface without fingerprints or other surface deformities.

5a) Make one half of the axe and sculpt the blade. Apply surface deformities/ dents/ carvings. Then make the other half and wait for both to dry. Glue them together.

5b) Make the axe head slightly thicker, and apply surface deformities/ dents/ carvings. Wait for it to dry. Sand/ cut the blade edge of the axe .

6) Apply the axe head to shaft.

Or you could make the axe out of plasticard.
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I had some spare parts, so I threw together an Iron Warriors Champion on demonic cockroach.
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>>54264722
Thanks. What % concentration of acetone is the minimum for this? Will nail polish remover be enough or do I need pure stuff?
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>>54256131
>>54264783
>I am unfamiliar with the size of the Ogres from Reaper, but they look like they could be a good starting point.
The little checks on the right side of the image are half inch marks. So he should be about two inches high, i.e. around 50mm, which is twice as high as a regular 28mm mini.

They also have even bigger ogres. Garnuk for example.
Was gonna use that one as giant for Frostgrave.

Depends on the sculptor, I just mentioned the Bobby Jackson Ogres because they reminded me a lot of the picture you posted.
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>>54261779
Jesus.
That thing'll disturb me more than that four legged baby head crawling thing someone likes to post here.
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>>54262045
Oh right, those guys.
That explains the unhurried poses.
But to rephrase, Guardian spears and sentinel blades (which I'm pretty sure are what the Hateroi are armed with), possess in build bolters in some form or fashion. Are you intending to try and model those on somehow, or going to leave them?
>>
Has anyone got a decent way of painting yellow for Imperial Fists?

I've tried about 7 guides now and followed them step-by-step yet each time I end up with either a very dull, blotched yellow or a very uneven surface area. I've watered down paints, used averland as a base spray, white as a base etc etc.
It seems like I'm doing something really fucking wrong as every guide I watch seems to get a bright even layer after just 2-3 layers whereas I'm stuck at about 5-6 layers and it still blotches or won't colour correctly
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>>54263087
I saw a good trick for nurgle at least.
Use a bunch of different sized straws to make different sized pustules.
Then use a toothpick, or any actual sculpting tool to poke a whole lot of holes and crevices and pull the greenstuff into its final position. Also use this to flatten the outer edges to make the greenstuff seamless.
This, if done right, should make a passable sculpt. If done well, it looks amazing.
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>>54255799
thin your paints
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>>54265168
post pics of your results.
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>>54263171
>How did he get two Crus Terminati?

"Because..." Tankred sighed, his bulk shifting in response.
"...Twins they were."
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>>54264285
O NEEDS A COMPLE'ED TRAK BELT ANYHOWZ. DAT SOUNDS LIKE A 'UMIE PROBLEM TA ME.
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>>54265192
Here is my latest attempt, I've just started trying to brighten the model up (you can see it on the models right leg) but again, the paint is blotching and isn't fulling out in colour. I heard that yellow was fairly difficult but this is insane...
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>>54263136
Get yourself some MicroSet/MicroSol. I've also had personal success with this Markfit stuff (my FLGS only had this, not the microsol/set). It basically softens and shrinks the transfers to seal to the curved surface
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>>54264285
Gorgeous.
>>
Chaps, I need ideas for a blog name. Mostly Oldhammer and ugly old plastics.
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>>54265257
Okay there is definitely something fishy going on with your paint.
It looks like it is way too thick and you got tiny airbubbles in the recesses of your model.

At first glance it looks like you are trying to paint with one thick coat rather than several thin ones.
Yellow may well need 4 coats before you have built up an even color. The temptation to just glob it on there is understandable, but it's not a good way to paint.
The left knee almost looks like you went back over it before the paint was entirely dry.

My advice would be to prime white and then use regularly thinned paint, like you'd use to paint everything else too, and build up the yellow base. Don't let the paint collect or throw a heavy coat on, just paint regular thin coats.
And then once you've got a solid base go back and do the shading and highlights.

The alternative to that would be to use inks or washes over a white base. That may be an option if you find that the yellow paint you are using has quality issues and you can't use anything else. This is quick and easy, but the backdraw is that you can't go back and fix something if you accidentally painted on the yellow parts.

Yellows and whites sometimes can get a bit chalky. And the little crumps of paint I see on the model look like you are using old paint or it dried on your pallette.

So in summary:
The first thing I'd look at is how you paint. You either need to be more patient or revise your method, because the way the paint collects with airbubbles in the recesses is definitely an issue with application.
The second thing you could look at would be actual quality issues with your materials, though that is less likely to be the cause imo. However dried out paint that you may have had to revive can have these little crumbs in them.
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>>54265427
Tales from the Hobby Crypt
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>>54265451
Cheers for the advice, I'll go back to basics and try to work on the application. The bubbles oddly came from the spray, I'm going to return it because it seems way to watery compared to all my other sprays.

I compared it to every other spray in the GW range and the Averland I have is easily the thinnest and causes bubbles, the rest are fine.
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>>54264807
Nail Polish remover is fine for the job.
>>
how the fuck do I keep my hand from shaking so much while painting
hand strength exercises?
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>>54265549
You need to brace your elbows/wrists against the table or each other.

As long as you got the strength to pick the mini up you don't need to lift weights.
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>>54265257
Personally, I found success in priming white, hitting it with a thin layer of ushabti bone, shade the recesses with Agrax, and then do 2 layers of lamenters yellow glaze. The layers go on beautifully thin and clean, and it's pretty easy despite all the steps, highlight with dorn yellow.
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>>54264916
yes, not bad. I'll see if I can cook something up
Thank you, anon.
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>>54264285
You should make it asymmetrical, extra orky.
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Does anyone else have problems with VMA paint separating? All of them seem way too watery like i can shake a bottle for a solid 2 minutes and it's still too thin.
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>>54265257
basecoat brown, use a really heavy drybrush of white, then use yellow glazes?
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>>54265740
I mean VMC, VMA is perfect in my experience.
>>
>>54265740
>>54265753
too watery sounds like the paint is not properly mixed.
Depends on your shaking technique, but turning them upside down and/or rolling them between shakes helps a lot with the dropper bottles in my experience.
>>
Hey /tg/ I want to make some truescale world eaters and am thinking of using the primaris marines. I have the FW world eater conversion kit and am wondering how easy and if at all possible it would be.
>>
So I just found some broken Inceptor parts on my sprue from the Dark Imperium box.

What do?
>>
>>54265851
The armor is wrong, but the shoulders can be trimmed down. You'd be better off using a terminator-armor based conversion, as terminator legs can more easily be sculpted to pass for earlier mark truescale legs.
>>
>>54266063
phone GW
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Still a work in progress, doing them one at a time. Need to clean up some highlights. What do you guys think?
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>>54266137
So the torso, shoulders and head will be FW and potentially the arms will be regular power armor. Without caring about the difference in power armour marks will it be possible to use just the legs and maybe arms of the primaris or will they look out of proportion. I'll try with the termie legs now.
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>>54258843
>ALL orders are FREE to collect from any Games Workshop store.
>Delivery prices start from FREE for orders of $80 Canadian Dollars or over, and from $26 Canadian Dollars for orders under $80 Canadian Dollars
>>
>>54265257
Hello battle-brother. I've tried many methods to paint yellow and I finally one that's satisfactory to me: Prime your minis yellow. Afterwards I do 3 to 4 very thin coats of Yriel Yellow, a targeted Sepia wash, White Scar highlights, and 2 glazes of Lamentors Yellow to bring it all together.

Yellow primer has the wrong look, it's very matte and very dull, but provides the perfect base for a bright yellow. I find that fighting up from Averland Sunset / Heavy Goldbrown makes them too orange for my tastes.

If you have any questions at all I'd be happy to help.
>>
>>54266249

Blood Angels?

Really nice, clean paint work. Love the colour contrast of the helmet to the body.
>>
>>54266564
Same guy from thw previous but during basecoating. Notice how his torso and up are matte from the primer while the right leg has a slight sheen from the Yriel Yellow coats?
>>
>>54266564

Damn anon ! That's a huge step up from your previous work. That yellow looks really clean and bright.

What steps did you take?
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>>54264285
>>
>>54266790
Things are about to get interesting
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Finally decided to finish my snipers. I use them for Ratlings.

I didn't want them wearing helmets, so I used heads from the command sprue and some catachan heads I got mailed for another project.

The tan paint is because some of them are from my first few sprues before I realized that you're supposed to prime your dudes AFTER they've been glued.

Hope to do a sort of tiger stripe camo pattern on the cloaks.
>>
>>54255799
Do as anon said, thin your paints, apply 2 thinner coats rather than 1 thicker.
The joints thing isn't that bad, but I'd gently scrape of some of the primer with the backside of a hobbyknife before gluing, just to be safe.
Other than that, that is one good looking first mini. If you do some recess shading and edge highlights on the armour, it'll look great.
Keep it up
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just filling some holes in my squads for 8th

mainly to avoid having to paint the three vehicles I have lined up
>>
>>54267335
It's interesting how those Scions look cool in that paint scheme and not steampunk garbage like on the box art
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>>54254923
Still chipping my way through these
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>>54261982
could need a few more highlights and washes (but maybe, it's just the lightning)
he should thin his paints a little bit more

>>54262796
>>54262817
not bad

>>54262833
>Is it normal a model this size used 12 different paints?
depends, I guess

>>54264790
looks neat (despite the fact, that Iron Warriors usually replace mutations with augmentations)

>>54266249
nice

>>54266823
they are a little bit too big for me, to be considered as Ratlings
not that you can't use them as proxys, but if you really wanna kitbash/convert something, than try to be close what you want

>>54267407
Emperor's Children?
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>>54267467
I'm fluffing it as Emperor's Children Resurgent, if Cawl actually did decide to follow through with the traitor Genes.
>>
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>>54267335
Too bad you didn't use greenstuff to give them raita bodies.
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>>54267509
jfc Raita
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>>54267509
the most common response in person is that they look like little union jacks

I guess greyfax kind of fits the ratia mold in being a head taller than all her troops.
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>>54264067
I made that image.
Basecoat Deathworld Forest, highlight Elysian Green, extreme highlight Ogryn camo
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>>54267578
Honestly I prefer it when he is kept on a tight leash for his designs. The anorexic girl with big tits look just isn't appealing to me.

wait what is this thread about again?
>>
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Bought a lot of these trees for my 40k table but the trunk needs to be bigger, so what does /tg/ recommend?
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>>54254923
How to integrate torsos from red scorpions hounor gard into new primaris range, and to do it so it looks decent, and not out of place?
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>>54267980
Almost impossible I think anon
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>>54267994
I have that kit for ages, and I want to start with primaris and it is shame for those kits to go to waste.
Oh, well.
>>
>>54268042
Sell them off before the market gets flooded by manlet marines
>>
What do you guys do for terrain? Any cool builds you want to share? Saving for a house=gaming on a budget, still want a decent table. Any hints?
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>>54267809
I DID NOT KNOW I COULD BUY AN EIDELWEISS!

As for his designs, I blame my first love for my thing for skinny women.
OH! We were talking about our little plastic soldiers.
>>
NEW THREAD

>>54268177
>>
>>54267467
>a little bit too big
Considering that this works against them rather than being modeling for advantage, I don't particularly care.

When I make models that aren't official I try for 'same or bigger' in terms of size. If it's bigger it's not a problem, because it might not be official but it's easier for my opponent to shoot, so he shouldn't be bothered. If it's the same size, then that's even better.

If it's SMALLER, than it's modeling for advantage.
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>>54267809
>>54268134
>1/35
Shame it's too large to be used for playing 40k.
>>
>>54268202
The need is mighty...
>>
>>54268202
Maybe a Macharius proxy?
>>
>>54267917
Paper mâché around the trunk until desired thickness. This'll also have the bonus of adding impurities and give a more realistic Trunk look
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>>54264067
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qGCG8XAlNI
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>>54257265
she cut up her room mates mat for a costume what an inconsiderate moron I would leave very quickly
>>
>>54265123
Ah, I see what you meant now. These guys are wielding paragon blades instead of the 'common' custodes weapons. Those lack any built-in weaponry, which is kind of a shame; might have been interesting to fit a gun on there.
>>
>>54255373
Build up the center ridge with greenstuff then file it down to a sharp edge.
>>
>>54268202
>too large
>40k
Does not compute.
>>
>>54265427
Not an inch of pretentious over-complexity about them.
>>
>>54265427
Vogue Trader
>>
>>54268688
>>54265427
Why is Oldhammer not a good name
>>
>>54265427
Cardstock of the Catacombs
>>
>>54267738
Thanks! The paintjob I have on my stormtalon at the moment is far too dark, same goes for the rest of my marines. Will try this one out with some primaris!
>>54268328
Haha, yeah saw it already but its the same way i've painted all my marines but at the moment its just too dark.
>>
>>54268328
>camouflaged

For what?
>>
>>54269013
a hall full of green marines
>>
>>54261491
You missed the chance to have mucus dripping from the end of the barrel.
>>
>>54261517
I would be ashamed to even put my models on the same table as yours, let alone the same country.

Fucking hell they look amazing
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