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/WIP/ Thread

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Thread replies: 368
Thread images: 96

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Work in Progress - "Kill all elves with leaded paint" edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed] [Embed]

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Embed] [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed] [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed] [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
>>
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Posting a question I had in another thread

I'm working on an Iron Warriors army and I'm wondering how I'd go about correctly carving the eye sockets in pic related to be rounder. What tool would you recommend to round them and not fuck it up?
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>>54233966
why not just pick a small enough drill bit? after you do the hole big enough for your needs just cut corners with a scalpel and round them with the drill a bit or the knife you said earlier based on your preference.
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>>54234246
Oh damn, didn't think of that. Thanks anon, I'll give it a try!
>>
Just reposting this from the other thread to give encouragement to anyone who might be thinking of magnetisation but is worried about trying.
Not the highest quality image, I know, but i'm the guy who made his first model ever earlier in the previous thread (the shas'ui I should probably not have put the arms on before painting). Just made my second model ever, and it's one i've magnetised, a pathfinder with rail rifle. Was really careful and it paid off, works like a charm and looks seamless with them on. They're stable enough that I can pick the model up by the rail rifle and even give it a little shake without them budging but they come off, and go back on, with no actual difficulty. Really happy with how it's turned out and it's my first time trying this, so go for it if you're thinking of it!
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>>54234354
Know what'd help? Not forgetting the image like a mong.
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Working on a 4 man Grim dark Future : Firefight team, 150 points. This is the basic guy, painting soon.
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All my projects. Have a bunch of iron warriors from when I was 15, FSE tau and tan tau I like more because of tacticool reasons. As well as some primaris marines I'll be painting as flesh tearers.
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>>54234580
I like the model and pose. I dislike how much paint is already on it.
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>>54234580
>>54234948
Same, I kinda want to steal that idea for myself but that model could have really had a bit of a dip in something to strip that paint, when you do get around to painting it the paint might appear alot thicker.
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>>54234948
Im hoping the layers of paint will be thin enough to not hide the detail, going with old cron style weathered silver so thickness issues can be blocked out with a weathered metal look
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>>54235026
You should wait until you see the other models I've sculpted. I'm quite pleased with myself!
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>>54235064
Please post them, I have a bunch of spare crons and am really tempted to do something similar as a project
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>>54235086
I'll get some new pics ASAP, got a new phone so the pictures should be greatly improved
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Set new table up so an excuse for an army shot. Camera isn't too great at this kind of thing.
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>>54235218
that single pile of rocks looks lonely.
>>
I decided I wanted to change up my paint scheme. Ive thrown a couple of options on this image, really just looking for some feed back.
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>>54235294
don't think I'm gonna be doing much outside of terrain for the next few months
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>>54235086
Here you go :) beautifu collage too.
>>
Okay faggots, here's the thing.
Local game store got two guillimans instead of one in triumvirate box so they sell them seperately now, I really like the model and have a lot of green stuff and time for converting.
How would you say converting him into some ultra chaos lord would look like?
I'm aware changing purity seals into something corrupted and all the imperial insyginia is shitton of work but I love working on hard stuff.
Fielding him would be nice but I don't mind an amazing model sitting in my room.
He has a helmet, right?
>>
Protoss themed eldar - would this custodes painting tutorial be a good start for the gold areas?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dm8J-kaezWM
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>>54235740
Neat! They make me think of robots that have pieced them selves together
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>>54236165
I'm going for a tomb, catacombs, ancient, cursed (Almost chaos), temple guard themed force. However the fixed themselves look is very much what I'm going for too!
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Expanding into Primaris marines starting with a couple (dozen) boxes of reivers.
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>>54236263
Thx for using my template. I like it alot!
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>>54232575
>paint in the ferrule ruins the brush
How exactly does this work? If it's in the ferrule, wouldn't it be contained to the length inside it?
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>>54235218
what mat? I like the design
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Mostly done Bright wizard, still have to clean up some areas and add the eyes, but this should give a good idea of what it will end up as
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weeabork update

need help fitting a titan, or half a titan on a 25mm base
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Hey /wip/, I'm buying my first flyer this weekend and wanted to know if anybody has any tips for painting cockpits. I want it closed but I'd like to paint it and have it just be glossy but not see through. Would doing a layer of bright silver, a layer of the color I want, and then doing ardcoat or another gloss varnish over it work or would it come out like ass?
>>
>>54236646
http://www.deepcutstudio.com/product/wargames-terrain-mat-badlands/
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>>54236586
It prevents the bristles laying together properly and causes them to splay out. The ferrule isn't packed full of bristle, there's room in there for the paint to mess stuff up.
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>>54235740
pretty cool but the bottom right dude REALLY needs a head
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(reposting from an old /40kg/) What's your preferred method of painting faces? Eyes to be specific. I see so many guides that contradict, some say paint them first, others say paint them last, some say paint the whites first, others the pupil. Is there one method that's better for someone who's very new to faces versus another?

Also, how the fuck do I into blending? My transitions are ass and I don't know what else to do to fix it. The paints are almost as thin as the water when I use them, too. Pic related is my best blends so far, but you can see the obvious color transitions instead of a smooth gradient.
>>
Hello, new minipainter here.
I got memed into buying a chaos black spray for use as a primer.

Safe to say I have a seriously hard time getting the colours to pop over it and everything looks like a trashy boardgame miniature.

What should I use instead?
Thinking grey or white.
>>
>>54237490
Depends what colour you're painting honestly, how translucent it is, and if you want your primer to impact your basecoat. Just like most things there really isn't an Always Correct option.
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>>54237575
>Depends what colour you're painting honestly
All I currently have are the colours in this set.
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Are you using any apps or softwares to keep track on your paint collection and schemes? I find PaintRack pretty good
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>>54237277
Personally, I rarely paint eyes. I think they usually look better as just a dark line than to try and do the hyper-detailed look. When I do do them, it's usually last simply because I like my paint jobs to look ready to play at every stage rather than being shit right up until they are finished (because I know that I leave a lot of stuff half-painted).

That said, I think the best method for doing eyes in general is to leave them until last. You can do a lot of skin tones with just washes, so get that done first. Then you want to do the white, not being too fussy about keeping it inside the lines, red wash to pink it up a little at the edges, iris, pupil, lower lid, upper eyelash line, upper lid. Get the iris and pupil nice and round, then cover up the top half with the lid paint. You might need a coat of white or something to get coverage over the pupil.

For blending, try using acrylic medium (GW call it Lamian Medium, I think) instead of water and breaking up the boundaries between colours with a little bit of noise; a few specks of each colour extending beyond it's line, feathered lines and very thin secondary lines all help.

Honestly though, what you've got there looks pretty good to me. I struggle to get transitions that nice with an airbrush.
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>>54237812
Good lord, I never thought of getting that detailed with eyes. I'm mostly looking to just get the whites and the pupil so that my dudes don't look absolutely souless. Most tutorials I see just paint the whites, than a thin vertical line across the eyebrow to the cheekbone, then the clean it up and that's the pupil.
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I have two armies, Word Bearers and Admech who are green and bronze.
I want to do a couple Knights, and hopefully eventually a Reaver Titan to ally with either, and I've decided I want a main armour colour like pic related, black with a blue-purple sheen. How would you go about getting that effect? Preferably the purple sheen on the head, but the wings would be fine too.
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>>54237490
Chaos black is honestly a perfectly good primer. It just means you will need either high-density paint or a lot of coats to achieve bright colours.

Army painter are rather questionable quality in my opinion, compared to GW and vallejo. Probably better to use a lighter colour under them.

When priming with white, you probably want to back up your spray with some gesso, since most white sprays don't do a great job of covering recesses or providing a nice smooth surface. Mix about two parts gesso to one part water in a spare paint pot or jam jar and just slap it on with an old brush. Work it well into the recesses and don't worry about it being too thick and covering up the detail; it will tighten as it dries.
>>
I want to start a little inq28 Warband as a side project. The problem is, I just started again with the hobby and I don't have a lot of bits. What kind of boxes are bits-full and really fun to convert? I was mostly thinking about the Genestealers cults for some of the bodies, maybe?
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>>54237902
Acrylic inks, fancy mediums (pearlecent and interference) and gloss varnish maybe? Be cautious about working with inks, as some of them don't dry waterproof, as I found out a bit late on one of my models recently' fucking stuff kept seeping through every layer of paint.
>>
Any suggestions on magnetizing orks for SWA? Should I just make every option possible? How should I set it up? I know someone on here is doing just that, so I was wondering if they'd give advice.
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>>54235756
Yeah, he's got a helmet. Some guy made this a few months ago; I know I saved it from /wip/ but can't remember if someone here actually made it themselves or if they just posted it as an example like I am.
>>
What's the best material to use inside blue stuff press molds?
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Working on Emperor's Children Resurgent.
I need to get some finer brushes so I can do details properly and I definitely need to learn the balance for thinning my paints. But all in all, I'm pleased
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>>54238117
I'm not even a big fan of Chaos, but that's spectacular.
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>>54237907
>Chaos black is honestly a perfectly good primer.
Chaos Black isn't primer, it's basecoat. Link anything from GW that uses the word "primer" to describe it.
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>>54238117
arms look very short
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>>54238129
thin your paints. both in general, but it will help with details.
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>>54238180
Not him, but: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-CA/Chaos-Black-Spray-CAN
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>>54236776
For real though, anyone? Any tips? I don't want to go out and buy a new model to completely fuck it up testing this out if it won't work
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Rate my glowing brain, teegee. The model itself is not finished. Please feedback?
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>>54237992
If I remember right, the optimum ork build is basically just to get a boy with a choppa and knife and a yoof with a knife every time you have a chance to recruit. So not really worth magnetising.
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>>54238409
Transition on the coat looks OK, OSL is generally in the right place, but the skin around the ears doesn't look good. Get some more green in the mix; it should look like green skin plus blue light, not pure blue light. More turquoise than you have now.
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>>54238385
It may look like a gem more than glass imho
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>>54236754
RULES OF NATURE
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>>54236754
where's bladesquig?
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>>54238496
RULES OF NATORK
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>>54238385
You want to paint on the outside of the canopy and get a kind of coloured metallic effect?

First of all, don't be too paranoid about fucking up. You can repaint over the top, unlike with a clear canopy.

Silver with a colour over it only really works with translucent paints, like GW glazes and washes. With those, it should look fine, although you may need a few coats. You can also mix them straight into the silver paint before applying it, which can give a more consistent colour.
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>>54238409
Add more colours. It looks like the brain is just white and not glowing, but good job nevertheless. You will improve, i believe.
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>>54238409
looking good but man do I hate that fig. I've gotta convert a weirdboy or two for myself
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>>54238691
>>54238563
>>54238468
Thanks for the feedback, will make adjustments and post
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I'm on the fifth layer of Yriel Yellow and shit's STILL not uniform. God damn it why must yellow be such a fucking cunt. Also first paintjob WIP.

I guess technically second since i fucked up the sergeant solo first within 3 layers of paint and stripped him back down.
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Currently working on a Nurgle Chariot for my WoC-army. At this point I chiefly have left to determine if the fella' riding the chariot should be wielding a whip or reigns to guide the horses. What do you guys think?
Any other input is welcome, particularly if you think that I could add something more to the model.
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>>54238912
holding the reigns
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>>54238907
What base paint did you use underneath the yriel yellow?
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>>54238538
Thank you! I'm going for purple, so silver with a couple of layers of druchii violet and then gloss it up? I have a couple of leftover heads with visors if I remember right, may test on that first just to be sure.
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>>54239067
Yeah I was leaning towards that myself seeing as he got a brilliant pose for it and I have bitz that could easily be converted into reigns.
Still, thank you!
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>>54239096
Averland Sunset
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>>54239096
I did thin it super hard for the first few layers, to the point where it was mostly a wash. I panicked since last time i didn't thin it enough (or didn't mix it properly) and it clumped and curdled, which NO OTHER PAINT has done until now. I feel like getting the proper mixing of Yriel Yellow down is fucking art in and of itself.
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>>54237878
I'd recommend not using actual white for the white or black for the pupil / iris. Colours closer to the skin tone make it blend together a bit and look more natural. A dark line above the white does a lot to define the shape of the eye and make it less cartoonish (see pic). Also, that red wash requires very little time and effort and gives a good effect.
>>
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>>54233855

Hey /wip/, putting together a Lord of Change kit and this is what the neck looks like. At first I thought there might be something that's supposed to go in that gap there because it looks like it was deliberately made like that, but going through the instructions there's nothing else that goes on there.

The sides of each feather are very uneven so I can't just green stuff the gap, and while the neck is a pretty damn important piece I can't imagine GW sending me a new sprue just for this one part.

What do I do?
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>>54238907
If it makes you feel better, whenever you manage to get them to an even yellow, they're gonna look pretty sweet. Bright yellow always looks cool on Marines.
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>>54239406
It's backwards
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>>54237937
Really plan ahead on what you want your guys to look like, look at sprues for different kits and check ebay for bitz boxes.

GSC have a good selection of stuff in them, lots of head choices, weapons and a decent body to use as a base for converting, if you want to keep them human sized similar kits to use would be;
Scions have alot of bits in the box, you get options to create both command and basic troops you get a nice mixture of weapons and heads.
IG/Catachan Command squads, again you only get five guys but because they're command you get some nice special looking parts to use.
Skiitari rangers are a bit smaller than the average human models but have some cool options.
Alot of the Freeguild, the old Empire, models will work well with these kits aswell.

Again it all depends on what you want your guys to look like.
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>>54239474

It's not backwards, anon.
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>>54239406
Liquid greenstuff?
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>>54238907
Good luck man, lately been trying myself to paint Imperial Fists, although I used a different technique cause I know painting yellow is awful.
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Work begins. Doing the yellow detailing, then onto the white.
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>>54239491
Thank you anon, I'll check those. Unfortunately, most of the cool stuff on bits sites is always sold out :(

What can I use for cables? Guitar strings from Amazon?
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>>54239451
>>54239536
Thanks anons. I think i'll try painting the Yriel directly on the light grey primer for the rest of the squad. I have a feeling the Averland isn't helping at all since it's darker than the primer.

Alternatively, i'll try giving it a coat of Screaming Skull on the primer first for some of the squad and see how that turns out.
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>>54239509

I can't fill this gap. It would leave me with a bunch of too large lopsided feathers with weird flat spots on it.
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>>54239578
Oh the flagellent kit makes a great body base for pious cult or heretics and comes with a bunch of cool bits like giant books, scrolls and hanging trinkets.

Guitar string is alright but I heard just pewter power cables are easier to use as long as theyre thin enough. You could also try greenstuff.
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>>54239641
This picture from the website seems to imply it's supposed to be like that
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>>54239755

I'll admit I didn't look at the website.
K that makes me feel a little better, but why the fuck would they do that? Looks terrible.

Anyway, thanks anon.
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>>54239773
>thin_your_paints.png
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>>54239787
Hairy ball theorem?
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>>54239773
Fuck just give me the model and I'll paint the damn thing. What a travesty.
>>
>>54239804

Would you mind summing that up for me? English is not my first language and I'm mildly dyslexic, so that paragraph is a nightmare for me.
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>>54239843
TL;DR of it is you can't have a sphere where all the hairs (Or in this case feathers) go the same way. Even with armor gaps, the lord of change has to have areas where the feathers part, since a lord of change is topologically similar to a sphere.
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>>54239823

You don't have to be a dick about it. Having said that...

>>54239773

Anon, you need to take more time with your minis. It looks like you were in a big hurry to call that done. Mold lines, really thick paint, and the wash looks like you put it in a squirt gun and blasted it onto the model.

Put some love into it. You get out of it what you put in.
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>>54239773
I am now dead
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>>54239262
Shit, I appreciate the gif. That's really nice. Is the very last color, the one above the eye lash supposed to be the eybrow, the eyelid, or just the part from the eyelid to just under the eyebrow?
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Hey guys, question about the Herald of Tzeentch on Burning chariot.

It states it "may be accompanied by three blue horrors", does this mean I glue them to the actual chariot?

Thanks!
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>>54239576
I know you're early on but wash that shit
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>>54239773
please please thin your paints
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>>54240025
It will be bathed in holy agrax and nuln oil, don't worry. I need to finish the details, tidy the edges and then sponge some leadbelcher spots onto the plain panels.
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>>54236263
Maybe wait for the multi parts kits? We know they're getting boters.
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>>54239980
Yeah theres space for them on the kit.
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>>54239773
This hurts me on a physical level
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>>54239980
Tbh it's pretty unclear. I would just model them on the chariot.
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>>54240146
>>54240128
>>54239980

Pic from the GW website. If there's enough room for the Exalted Flamer and 3 blue horrors, there's enough room for the Herald and 3 blues.
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Hey, considering doing some conversion work on a Megaboss for my warboss (original, I know.)
Got some questions before I buy anything
1. How easy is it to remove the big honking skull on his shoulder?
2. How does his head compare with the head of the Assault on Black Reach/Battle for Vedros Warboss? Is it about the same size?
>>
>>54240084
no, fuck off
>>
>>54240291
>how easy it is to remove the big honking skull on his shoulder

Not easy at all, consider using a shoulder pad from the Maw-Krusha Megaboss.

I think the AoBR head is a bit larger because of the expression and would probably not fit in the Megaboss' armor. It's also pretty ugly.
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>>54240530
>pay $110+ for one shoulder pad
Unless there's a way to get it otherwise?
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>>54240676
The obvious would be to buy bits from a friend. I feel bad for mentioning it in the first place because I ran into the exact same issue.

Alternately you could buy the Maw-Krusha and use it as a counts-as Trukk, Battlewagon, or Warbiker Boss. Even a Squiggoth I suppose. Dunno how big it is compared to those three units
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>>54239773
T H I C C
H
I
C
C
>>
>>54240676
Bitz sellers are probably your only bet.
>>
>>54239773
post more of your minis
>>
>>54236263
>tacticool marines
>dress their medics in bright white
They should carry signs saying "shoot me". It's not like anyone respects the Geneva Conventions in M41.
>>
>>54240829
Tau and Eldar make a point not to shoot medics.
>>
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A little smoothing out on the robes once the hands have cured and then this guy is ready for the silicone.
>>
>>54240852
T'au I could belive. Aeldari seems... Less likely?
>>
>>54237937
Empire flaggies, skitari, some AOS khorne/chos guys , imperial guard .
>>
>>54241041
nah, especially with the eldar and humanity being as close as they are now, it's more true.
>>
>>54241024
Dang, did you greenstuff all that? Looks real nice. Could you get a closeup of his face?
>>
Just got a Hordes Trollblood vs Skorne box to start out in the hobby, and here comes the question.

Should I assemble and then paint, or paint then assemble? I just can't decide which will be easier...
>>
>>54241530
assemble as much as possible, if a part would get in the way while painting leave it off and paint that first though.
>>
>>54241530
Assemble anything that isn't going to obscure other pieces from being paintable.

I fully assembled all my Guardsmen first and deeply regret it. They all are holding their rifles across their chests in a way that makes painting a nightmare.
>>
>>54241530
As someone who has just learned this lesson, you should assemble but leave off anything where you think it'll make painting difficult. This basically means two surfaces that need painting being excessively close so that painting either without doing the other at the same time will be exceptionally difficult.
>>
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What should I name my Chaos dood? I was thinking of calling him Steve but maybe you guys can think of something better.
>>
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>>54241530
Generally assemble before painting
The trollblood army is easy to paint when assembled, speaking from experience. The only thing that might get in the way would be Ragnor's hammer
>>
>>54241949

Stevarino
>>
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>>54236754
THE UNENLIGHTENED 'UMIES
>>
>>54241990
this
>>
How should I kit out a Deathwash Kill teem?
>>
>>54241949

Fell Lord Steve-O the Ravenous
>>
>>54241883
Just hearing people say "if you can't reach it with a brush it won't be visible anyway" triggers my OCD hard. No, nigger, it's going to be visible, especially from above at a tabletop perspective, or if you pick up and examine the figure. Your line of sight gets into places far better than your solid paintbrush. It's like these morons have never seen a fallen item behind or underneath a couch yet couldn't reach it with their arm.
>>
/tg/, a question:
Is this thread the one I should seek help for 3D printing vehicles? Not on 0.1mm resolution, but 0.016mm. I want my eyes not to bleed.

If so, can anyone point me to where could I find either complete 3D models or side/front/above perspectives of them? I did find those of a Predator, but I'm looking for a Land Raider (or, if I'm lucky, a Baneblade and it's brothers).

Thanks for the help!
>>
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For what fucking purpose?
>>
>>54242152
https://www.thingiverse.com/
>>
>>54242152
Try WiP.
>>
>>54242169
Aren't they literally just Space Marines?
>>
>>54242112
Guardsmen especially are like this, yeah. Tabletop angle is just right that you can see their chest armor, but it's a right cunt to paint unless you leave the arms off. And unfortunately for me, I always made sure my dudes were as solidly glued as possible, so I can't get them back apart either.
>>
>>54242241
They have higher leadership, better wargear, and they're all psykers. Other than that they have the same stats as normal space marines
>>
>>54242306
So silver marines not blue marines, got it
>>
>>54242241
>W1 A1

WHEN WILL MARINELETS LEARN
>>
How hard would it be to convert Voldus using Scarab Occult bits to do some simple edits to things like his helmet, weapon, etc? A buddy and I were going to split Triumvirate of the Primarch and I want to do something with this guy but I don't know exactly what I should do yet.
>>
>>54242172
Thank you! Those will make my work quite easier indeed.

I'll be sure to post it in /WIP/ once I get it printed.
>>
Do you guys have any recommendations for gold spray paint? I'm not willing to shell out 28 bucks for GW's spray. Will krylon work or is it too thick?
>>
>>54242241
They used to have 2A and weren't even that spectacular in the 7e dex.

Hell, Khaine was literally immune to them.
>>
>>54242313
exactly
>>
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Tried to file down a Mark 3 helmet like the Echoes from the Long War cover for my Iron Warriors.

Thoughts?
>>
>>54242402

There is no good gold acrylic primer on the market. You're probably gonna have to bite the bullet and use a yellow, brown, or silver primer and then paint gold over it. Which you probably want to do anyway as you won't get a 100% match with GW's gold to their gold primer anyway and Army Painter's 100% match system doesn't have a gold spray.

I'm guessing most people that do gold armies use GW spray or airbrush.
>>
>>54242350
Sell it to me.
>>54242474
I rike it.
>>
>>54242474
Looks rubbery. Should've kept the edge on the mouthplate IMO.
>>
>>54242482
But I don't want to just get rid of Voldus, I want to try doing something with him. It feels like a waste to not have done anything with him.
>>
>>54242535
You'll get money.
Also, he looks like he's about to sit down on a toilet and take a fat shit (for the Emperor, of course)
>>
>>54242535
Sunk cost fallacy.
>>
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What are you guys working on tonight?
Doing layering atm for this batch
>>
>>54242474
reminds me of that robot from the day the earth stood still
>>
>>54242661
Finally started playing D&D with my friends again so I'm painting up some minis for them. Just waiting for this archer's base coat to dry rn.
>>
Planning on painting some CSM soon. If I varnish the armor with future or the like before painting the trim, would I be able to correct mistakes using a q-tip with water or alcohol?
>>
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Did some grey power armour, still not finished the red bits yet though.
Trying to decide between blue or green for the plasma gun colour when I get around to painting it
>>
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>>54241949

Anything but "Slambo".
>>
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>>54233855
Working on this guy. Haven't painted his boots yet.
>>
>>54243985
Yellowy orange
>>
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>>54242474
Not bad at all.
Here's the original if you want a closer look. He's still sold in metal btw.
>>
Im not a huge fun of how Leman Russes look and have an idea of using Chimera body and/or tracks. Anyone got experience/pics/ideas of such?
>>
>>54236056
Probably, I would tone down the red washes a bit though, as the Protoss gold is quite pale, and they are quite fond of bluey lighting.
>>
>>54244574
Blood and skulls industry has some pretry fucking good tank stuff, albeit some expensive one. It's good for SM vehicles, you'll have to check if it works for IG ones as well.
>>
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>>54233855
>be one of the only guys who really paints on an even remotely standard schedule at store
>painting is ok at best, but compared to all the new players around me it apparently sits somewhere between Victoria Lamb and Saint Duncan
>Some guy just walked up to me the other day and asked me if I'd be interested in painting the entirety of his Kingdom Death pledge that is going to be trickling in over the next several months
>MFW I don't even have a completed army yet and people keep trying to hire me for commissions on their stuff
>I don't even own an airbrush
>I just want to paint my dudes but I feel bad turning people away who literally want to pay me for my hobby.

Worst part is I could really use the money but I can't even begin to imagine what a proper quote would be to paint all the stuff that Kingdom death promised their backers.
>>
>>54244688
My two cents:
If you paint for others it's work, not hobby time. You should keep that in mind. Firstly, because it may not be as fun as painting something you chose, and secondly because someone is paying you to deliver a certain quality in a certain amount of time. This need to be done.
If you are not even done with your own army don't commit to something big like painting the guy's entire collection, if you want to give commission painting a shot. Just say you are gonna paint one model to dip your toe into it and see how it goes.
As for pricing, it is your time so you make the prices. You can work out a rough estimate of how long it will take you to paint something and give a set number, or charge by the hour. The problem with the second model is that your client has to take your word for it.
And don't sell yourself short either. Don't use minimum wage as a guideline for this. Charge what you want to get for your time.

Also you don't have to feel bad for turning people down. You are allowed to say no.
Especially to work that you don't want to do.
>>
>>54240192
holy crap thats a bad model

GW's obsession with modelling fire, smoke, magic is one of the worst things theyve picked up since moving over to 3D printing and they put it on everything and still hasn't looked good on a model
>>
>>54244574
What about the forge world leman russes? They fix most of my grievances with the leman russ personally, apart from the exposed tracks.
maybe look in to some chimeras with predator turrets 2.
>>
>>54244962
>they put it on everything and still hasn't looked good on a model
while I agree that it look bad on most models it worked for the skaven warmachine thingy.
But yeah, in pretty much every other instance the models would look better without it.
>>
>>54244962
Yeah it's fucking terrible.

>>54245026
Also agree with this.
>>
>>54243985
That gray looks great, goes well with the red.
It's kind of a bluish gray so maybe blue plasma will compliment better than green, but both would work.
>>
>>54240192
like who actually approved this model?

Would look 10x better without that weird shit spouting everywhere
>>
>>54244230
This
>>
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What colour would you use to basecoat this colour scheme? I'm new to painting, trying to figure out what would be ideal.

As for the actual scheme, so far I've got;

>Armour
Steel Legion Drab base > Agrax Earthshade wash > Karak Stone highlights

>Fatigues
Loren Forest base > Athonian Camoshade wash

>Sept colours
Khorne Red base > Wazdakka Red highlights

>Black parts
Abaddon Black base > Mechanicus Standard Grey highlights

Please tell me if any of these are idiotic choices in any way, I'm pretty new to this so I have no clue what I'm doing.
>>
>>54244667
Damn those are quite pricey, but like you said pretty good stuff. Need to think for those.
>>54245017
I went to look what forge world has and the turrets alone could work with chimera body. Havent even thought of getting predator turrets, thanks for the tip!
>>
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How can I learn how to paint like this? I watch the Duncan videos, and they don't really help. I don't feel like i'm getting any better. Is there anything you all can tell me? Any resources i can go to to learn technique?
>>
>>54245492
>How can I learn how to paint like this?
Paint a lot, like, a whole lot
>>
>>54245492
check the OP.
There is a whole mega filled with books about painting.
Almost every single one will tell you how to wetblend, glaze or layer, which is what you want to know to get a smooth gradient like in your pic.
>>
>>54245492
I probably would play AoS if Stormcasts had heads like this and not the retarded ones they have now.
>>
>>54244154

Holy shit some LOTR.

LOTR players are more rare the SOB Players in Murrica.
>>
>>54245521

Well that's a given. I mean I know i'm not just going to watch a video and magically wake up one morning able to paint like that. It's just i've been painting for a year and a bit now, I watch the Duncan vidoes, and i try to do as he says and learn, but I just don't feel like i'm getting any better or what techniques to try and learn to get better, so I just need new things to try really.

>>54245522

Well I guess I'll go give it a look. Thanks. Books are good, I can work with that i guess.
>>
>>54241949
Vardek Crom the Conqueror.
>>
>>54245558
uruk hai reporting in
>>
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First time painter here, what do you think?
>>
>>54245807
The robe looks like shit on purpose yeah? I mean everything else looks beautiful, but the robe looks kinda shit, but if you were just going for a dirty grease soaked look you nailed it i think.
>>
>>54245807
Nice, what did you use for the gold?
>>
Quick 40k 8th question guys, what does "friendly <ORDO> unit" signify?
>>
>>54245807
Skull could use a wash and highlight, axe can be touched up, the mud on the mechadendrites need to be either removed or properly done, ie washed and highlighted, the gold of the gun needs a wash and a highlight, I'd avise for Nuln Oil, as the whole model is dirty, apart from those golden pieces on the gun.

I really like the robes however, a very nice dirty look. Has a slight Blanche vibe.

Got a lot of touching up to do, just take your time and be thorough, and it'll be pretty fucking good. Keep it up.
>>
>>54245807
better than I'd expect form new painter, i actually like that weathered looks on robe. Keep going my fellow Ryza servitor.
>>
>>54244688
post minis fgt
>>
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I've finished my warboss yesterday.
As usually, I took like 50 photos of him, but hopefully i picked ones that shows him best.

Squig is magnetized so I can take out his newly transplanted arms. I like one with the sword, but spear is way to big, I'll probably get some tyranids or daemons bitz to make him more options!
>>
Hey guys, so i'm in kind of an odd situation. I'm overseas at the moment in Asia, and while i left most of my stuff at home I took a few hobbying materials. Specifically I brought along my blue stuff and what all i needed to cast molds and copy bits, but i've just had an Idea, a new way to do the modeling, and I really want to put one together and try it. Thing is i don't think i'll know if it looks good or not until it's painted, so i'm thinking of buying some paints so i can do that. Bit of a ways to the store, but it's worth it to scratch that itch. I don't want to pick up paints I already have though, so i can't do it in my normal color scheme. So I was hoping you guys could give me some ideas for a Sisters of Battle color scheme. Something colorful and different, no whites or reds. I've been wracking my brain but I can't come up with anything.
>>
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>>54246144
>>54245995
You know 40kg exists right.
>>
>>54246144
sorry, meant to post in other 40k thread, wrong tab. Will delete.
>>
>>54246114
Brilliant stuff.
>>
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>>54237592
I use Army Painter and their Uniform Grey undercoat. Pic for reference.

The thing I found with Army Painter, and arguably with most paints that aren't the glorious old GW Foundation paints, is you are going to need to do multiple coats. Doubly so over something darker like Black. And especially if it is a historically finicky paint color like a Red.

Do as Duncan does and work on multiple coats allowing time to dry properly in between.
>>
>>54246175
Thank you!
>>
>>54238409

Cut the glow off at the brow to the normal green, the glow wouldn't curve round the brow like that. Think about how light works and what is obstructing it, any part of the head that is obstructing the light source should not have glow beyond it.
>>
>>54241105
>their species worked together that one time, and two weirdos within the groups are kinda-sorta cordial
>They're best buds guys, they don't even kill each other's support units!
The fuck are you even talking about?
>>
>>54242084
guns and maybe some other stuff

grenades??
>>
>>54246114
m8, you can p8nt
>>
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Update on babyface

She's been getting some great reactions at my lgs, including a player who had to take a break from playing due to a legit fear of dolls
>>
>>54246474
Can you spoiler stuff like this next time?
>>
>>54246474
Put an eye in it's mouth, and use greenstuff to make the back of it's head covered in pustules, open cankers/ sores, split skin, and tubes.

When doing nurgle, go full disgusting.
>>
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>>54238117
some guy posted it here last week, pretty sure it was his.
>>
>>54246708
I feel like you could use Guilliman's model to build an infinitely better Abadon the Despoiler model than the 19 year old piece of shit we have now.
>>
>>54239406
No shame in asking gw for a replacement sprue (ask it politely tho, "Im not sure if I'm. Otherwise following the instructions correctly or if the piece has been molded badly")

You'll be surprised how generous gw customer service are!
>>
>>54245235
>Loren Forest base
Not so sure about this one, maybe the new death guard green would be a better pick before your camoshade wash.

>What colour would you use to basecoat this colour scheme?
If you can afford it, I'd go with a green or sand coloured spray. If you can't white is probably a better idea.
>>
>>54246114
ZOG ME DATS BOOTIFUL BOZ!
>>
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Testing colours.. Does this look waspy in anyway?
Also how do I be less shit at this.
>>
>>54246958
>T H I N N
Seriously though, thing your paints a bit more. Better two layers of thin paint than one layer of thick.
>>
>>54246989
They were thinned.
50/50 on my wet pallet..
>>
>>54247004
Are you using poster paint???
>>
>>54247004
what brand of paint are you using
>>
>>54246958
Not really in the manner I think you were going for. Maybe try a pattern on one leg and the shoulder pad.
>>
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>>54246114

fuckin beautiful mate
>>
>>54247011
GW Paint
Here's another test I did. Looks a little thinner.
Doing nurgle marines, had a wasp land on some models I was cleaning off the sprues and though that's be a cool theme, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to paint an army and make it look waspy..
>>
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>>54247044
Forgot photo
>>
>>54235218
>Actually buying a Thunderhawk.
Yeah. I don't like money, either.
>>
>>54247052
what primer are you using?
i really dont know what you could have done to get that first effect if you thinned your paint properly
>>
>>54247085
It was a garbage model. Was more for colour idea. It had a number of layers on it from previous people and tests.
>>
>>54246775
Thanks for the advice, the green was the one thing I really wasn't sure on, I might go with that.

I'm buying the primer either way so I might as well just go with a green. Good call, thanks.
>>
>>54247052
Idea looks interesting, I'd say to avoid using too much bright yellow, maybe base in camel yellow, then go over in medium? In any case, try to avoid making them look like cartoons.
I would suggest looking at nurgle images and wasp images. Base your ideas off what you see on them, eg how the patterns form.
Other then that, just try I guess.
>>
>>54247150
Yeah I was thinking more pale yellows and dark browns over sunshine yellow and black.
Maybe more yellow with brown as the accent?
I'll try tomorrow..
>>
>>54246708
This guy has two heads. One helmeted, one helmetless.
On the helmetless head, he has a horned forehead. On the helmeted head, no such horns are observed.
WHERE DO HIS HORNS GO?
>>
>>54247170
He goes all Hellboy and breaks them off everytime he wants to use his helm. Then, after removing his helm, they grow back quickly due to the power of the warp.
>>
>>54247112
>model is shit and covered with many layers
>I set up a situation in which it was impossible to not be terrible
>how do I not be terrible
Well anon...
>>
>>54247206
Truly sanity is for the weak.
>>
Hey guys. I'm trying to scratchbuild a daemon prince of Tzeentch.
I'm trying to go for a mix of gaunt summoner, crustacean, and terminator. Basically a Sorcerer in terminator armour gets elevated and is now all spindly and such.
Any good ideas for the legs, or any other unusual feature/s?
>>
>>54247303
Shown next is a (poorly captured) Tau Fireblade for size reference.
>>
>>54246172
>>54246462
>>54246839
>>54247034
fankss anons! glad you like him!
>>
>>54239974
Eyelid, although really you want it to blend in to the surrounding skin anyway and actually keeping it entirely on the lid is unlikely. I made it a different colour more to show where the paint is going than to say you really need to make it a different colour.
>>
>>54245539
well, just Kitbash your own then

>>54245807
not bad

>>54246114
didn't know that Squig with arms exist
your miniature is nice, by the way

>>54246474
nice (I still think that she would be better as a Slaanesh DemonEngine)
>>
>>54246114
>blood axe

Oi, jobs a good 'un, but yer not very orky, ya git
>>
>>54237937
If you aren't stuck on using GW models, check out:

Frostgrave cultists (robes).
Warlord Black Powder Woodland Indians (near naked dudes with some interesting weapons).
Project Z survivors (modern clothing and weapons, including military, bikers and various civilian costumes).
Beyond the Gates of Antares freeborn domari (kind of half way between 40k and generic sci-fi dudes).

Also, there are a shitload of companies which make resin bits. I think anvil industry's regiments are one of the best places to look.
>>
>>54247669
I was mostly thinking of using GW Stuff^tm, but I'll check those out, thanks!
>>
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So for you anons who have made Primarus Marines, how well would they work with old fashioned bolters?
I'm thinking of grabbing some to make some Lamenters or Knights Errant, but the rifles feel excessively bulky.
>>
>>54241483
There you go anon. My phone did not want to take that so i had to use a magnifying glass.
>>
>>54247726
Classical Bolters fit with Primaris marines rather neatly.

The only major difference is that the hands of the classic space marines are bigger than those of the Primaris marines. The classic marine arms themselves are a few millimeters shorter (like 3-4mm) than those of the NuMarines.

Shoulderpads are the same size, though. So you can get away with using classic space marine arms. Even the classic chaos space marine and khorne berserker shoulderpads fit them.
>>
>>54238907
prime them yellow
>>
>>54245807
For a first time, fucking excellent. Keep it up anon. Others already hit the issues.
>>
>>54242474
Like the eye slit, don't like the rest, especially the face plate.
>>
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>>54241024
Nice work. I like to sculpt my own models too.
>>
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>>54248038
And a different sculpt. This ones pic was taken with my phone, so apologies.
>>
>>54247726
I don't want to not like thel marines but god damn the primaris really do make these guys look even more stunty and oddly proportioned than ever.
>>
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>>54238409
Ok, here's my glowing brain attempt revision. The full model isnt finished yet and im really trying to lock down this glowing brain thing. Thoughts?
>>
>>54248136
It looks alright for now.
But I think the areas where you are catching the light are too uniform and the paint is quite strong there.
It's the same blue you used on the brain. It should be darker/fainter the further away you get from the light source and only the light source should have the regular lightness.


I think the overall effect could be a bit more subtle.
>>
>>54248136
It's just too much, you really need to dial it back. The glow shouldn't spread quite so much, and it shouldn't look so strong.
>>
>>54246474
Seems more Slaanesh than Nurgle but really it's so neat looking that it doesn't matter at all. Good job, anon.
>>
>>54246356
ok, I get it, you aren't familiar with the fluff.
>>
>>54247857
>Shoulderpads are the same size, though. So you can get away with using classic space marine arms. Even the classic chaos space marine and khorne berserker shoulderpads fit them.

Well now that is pretty damn neat. Thanks anon. :)
>>
>>54248136
I think this is a good level of OSL and you should leave it now. It looks pretty good upclose and probably better from distance on the table.
Well done.
>>
>>54247052
Clean the moldlines off before painting anon.
>>
>>54248015
How would I go about making it sharper?
>>
>>54235218
"Brothers, We must seize this boulder for the emperor! "

"did we need to bright an entire company for this?"

"fuck off brother Lucas, We are the legio Geologicus!"
>>
Should I go through the trouble of magnetizing my strike/breacher teams or just spend more money and have things look better.
>>
>>54248366
Why the fuck would you ever use breachers?
>>
>>54248556
Because they look cool... and can do some damage...
>>
>>54248737
Vespids fill their battlefield role much better.

Anyway, it'd be a royal pain in the ass to magnetise. You'd be looking at backpacks, helmets and arms.
>>
>>54248366
>>54248759
>Anyway, it'd be a royal pain in the ass to magnetise.
As someone who did something similar for Terminator, I gotta agree with this anon.
It's a paint in the ass and sucks the fun out of painting. Reassembling models before each game is no fun either.

All things considered your time is better spent just buying more models and building the unit regularly.
It's gonna take as much time as painting all the body parts by itself, but it's gonna be much more satisfying.
>>
>>54247561
dis little got had his arms transplanted after tearing apart tzeentch sorc I was playing against. He's blue so he was lucky enough to survive session with painboy.
Just a nice touch-up to story of my dudes, no real use of that bitz.
>>
>>54248260
Cite me a single source that says eldar make a point not to kill human medics.
>>
>>54248759
Vespids are ugly as hell, I like them a lot fluff wise but the models are so trash I wouldn't
even wanna paint them let alone shell out the cash
>>54248845
I think ill just assemble them normally then, more expensive but more fun and better looking thanks.
>>
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>>54248922
>Vespids are ugly as hell, I like them a lot fluff wise but the models are so trash I wouldn't
>even wanna paint them let alone shell out the cash
Puppetswar does some nice jumppacks that would fit in seamlessly with Tau.
If you find a good weapon replacement you could just build a count as unit.
>>
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Well, let's see if I can't rehabilitate this model. Would be nice to have another First Edition Destructor...
>>
>>54248984
This is a pretty sweet idea.
>>
>>54248891
The second Gaunt's Ghosts book
>>
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I just want to post this as a cautionary example of what can happen if you are an idiot and forget to check that your magnet polarities match up.
This is me having drilled through the shoulder to pop the superglued magnet back out. Will be covering up the little hole with an accessory but honestly it could have went way worse than it did.
>>
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I'm afraid the plasma pistol will be decorative, because DW bikers can't take special weapons or pistols for some reason.
I'd love to be able to have an attack bike with a heavy thunder hammer instead of a heavy bolter or multimelta. Take out a Warboss' mailbox with one swing.
>>
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I've got some juggernauts to paint and I keep thinking about this art piece. The juggernaut looks like the flat surfaces have decorative etching/engraving which is super cool. The only trouble is figuring out how to paint the effect. I can find lots of real life reference pictures of armor and such, but examples of minis painted like this are hard to find.
Does anybody have advice for how to do this? I fear that I'd need golden demon level skills to pull it off.
>>
>>54238907
once you apply a wash in the right places they start coming together, be patient anon
>>
>>54248984
Those are actually super attractive jetpacks, as for guns I could probably take the breacher guns Im not gunna use anymore and cut up some necron rods, mold some lil clampy things on the end. Thank for the post dude.
>>
>>54249311
>I fear that I'd need golden demon level skills to pull it off.
Not really.
If you use the way back machine you may be able to find the Black Gobbo article on this. They basically did an article about painting different kinds of armor. Blackened, laquered, blued or whatever you call it in english. There are several ways that were historically used to treat armor to achieve different looks, they had a go at painting those.
One of those was also an engraved pattern or some such.

Basically all you need is a dark metal color and a light metal color. Base everything with your dark metal and then apply the pattern with the light metal color.
That's all you need to get the idea across, if you want to get more fancy you could paint highlights and shadowlines too, but that would be overkill for a regular army.
>>
>>54249311
Painting etched armor is literally a matter of leaving the etched area darker and then using the colour you intend to use as the highest points/ edges highlight to create the pattern. For example, using that image as an example, Leadbelcher (dark metal) -> Agrax Earthshade (brown ink that turns the metal more matte) -> ironbreaker (lighter metal painting the pattern in inverse) -> even lighter metal carefully dabbed and used on the sharpest edges or freshest scrapes.

Alternatively, you could use a hobby knife to carefully scrape and carve patterns into the smooth plated surfaces of the Juggernaut models, which would make for easier time painting the etched armour, but be more time consuming during modelling.
>>
can I use a Painting Knife for painting Johnny?
>>
>>54248055
>>54248038
Dude get a job with PP so their models can stop being ass.
>>
>>54249411
>>54249425
Thanks. I wouldn't have thought to do dark first. I guess I'll test some things and see how it turns out.
>>
I bought undercoated sprues of a guy. Is there a way I can remove the undercoat? It's chaos black if that makes a difference.
>>
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>>54249758
PP, much like GW and most other companies, do the vast majority if not all of their modeling in autoCAD and Zbrush nowadays.

Then again, I have experience with both programs but I'm in Funland, so job prospects are kinda soggy. ebin :-DDD
>>
>>54249873
Simple Green/Detol depending on your location/
There's a link to an article about stripping miniatures in the OP
>>
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I need some tips on how to improve on my nurgle force. I had to strip the Dark Imperium models due to a shitty basecoat (chalky as fuck). The drone and 2 dudes are still soaking. The Dark Vengeance dudes are pretty much tabletop ready, but i fucking HATE all the detail. Much prefer the conversion marines i made (center). Any tips for basing? I was thinking mud/swamp but not sure how. I was hoping something quick. Also considering chipping/battle damage for something a bit nicer.

Not really happy about the individual models but i am going to tabletop quality and perhaps improve from there.
>>
>>54245710
this
>>
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>>54249904
>>54249904
>but I'm in Funland, so job prospects are kinda soggy
Even so it might be a good idea to put together a portfolio of your sculpting work if you haven't already. Maybe send it to some model companies and see if they like it, or even start your own company out of your garage

benis
:-DDDDDD
>>
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>>54249997
shitty whatsapp jpg 50% compression
>>
>>54249955
That article is about stripping ordinary paint from models, not the undercoat. I've tried everytting except alcohol and petrol, but it wont come off.
>>
>>54250216
I've stripped tonnes of models using detol and chaos black normally comes off relatively easily, especially after a scrub
>>
>>54248136
I think this looks good, but you need to finish the green areas of the face before I can really judge how well it transitions between them and the blue.
>>
>>54248556
>why the fuck would you ever use breachers
because theyre great, fuck off
>>
>>54250357
this guy gets it.
Breachers are how men play Tau
>>
>>54250296
I've stripped lots of models too, plastic ones, the ordinary paint comes off easy but the undercoat ramains every time. This time I want the undercoat completely removed so I can asemble them and then undercoat as I usually do. I've soaked these for 2-3 days, yet the undercoat doesn't come off.
>>
>>54250426
>undercoat ramains every time
you're doing something wrong then
>>
>>54250426
In what?
>>
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>>54250451
>>54250455
Simple green, swedish grön såpa (the same as simple green it seems like) and some shit I was recommended at a paint shop. I live in Sweden and the only dettol I can find is pic related, is it what you use?
>>
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>>54250451
>>54250455
>>54250538
Oh and this btw
>>
>>54248990
>sponsons without the twiggy posts broken/worn out
How os this possible without time travel?
>>
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>>54239576
You have to put something on those track panels, anon
>>
>>54250067
Well, they do look like shit, and not in a good way.
It's a combination of both the colour selection and poor technique, makes them look muddy and uninspired, the detail is washed out and there's barely any contrasts.

You should probably re-think your scheme, remember there's more to Nurgle than just slathering your minis in washes and technical paints.
>>
>>54248990

Good luck mate, I've got a Land Raider to strip and I'm trying to work out how without fucking with the assembly
>>
>>54250538
Try some heavy engine degreaser, makes disinfectants look like a joke.
Half hour soak in it gets the primer off my stuff.
>>
>>54242661
I want to work on my Mortifactors veterans, but my pupper is being too much of a tard to let me.
>>
>>54242661
Assembling babby's first minis. Got one fully assembled when I shouldn't have, one mostly assembled (which is correct) and two magnetised ones fully assembled (also correct).
>>
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Wonder if anyone here is old enough to have owned these boys back in the day...

Still a few highlights and basing to go but ready enough for the shadow war birthday bash tomorrow. Sorry for phone pic.
>>
Does using distilled water and unfiltered tap water make any difference in the paint? Like does it contaminate the properties or whatever
>>
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>>54233855
So, I'm working on giving my admech army a little flavor; Here is my WIP engiseer, who I've converted from some old Warmahorde models I had laying around, and the umpteenth Dominus I got from a SC. Any ideas on how to make her seem more "Admech"?
>>
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>>54250996
A picture of her from behind.
>>
>Decide to go outside and prime some figures
>Room visibly darkens, thundercrack
>Open door, literally raining sideways, clear not 5 minutes ago
>>
>>54251083

Probably saved your miniatures, would have been high humidity
>>
>>54236727
No black on the flames?
>>
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>>54251050
>>54250996
Also related, here is a WIP Lych Guard conversion I plan to run as Electropriests, seeing as howI despise the actual Electropriest model. Any ideas on how to make him look less Necron? Or if there's a better weapon I could use for the actual blade for his Staff? Currently, he has a Ranger head, and a Infiltrator Taser Goad.
>>
>>54250809
That's what I was thinking of trying, but won't it melt the plastic?
>>
>>54251123
No, if you're worried you can test on some sprue first.
>>
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>>54251112
>>
>>54251147
True, thanks anon.
>>
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>>54251148
>>
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>>54250579

Believe me, anon, I look at every one that comes across my eBay searches. I'm willing to sacrifice a few bitz (rails, bolt guns, exhausts, etc.) from one of my spare Rhinos to rehabilitate a Mk I Destructor like this, but it's gotta have all the essentials. I've passed over so many that were missing the critical pieces. My own Destructor - which I bought NIB back before the Dark Age of Technology - is in fact missing one or two of the small triangular plastic bitz (pic related) that keep the lascannons from sliding out the back of the sponsons, which are just hollow shells.
>>
>>54239174
That might be your problem desu, if you thin it too much the water will form "droplets" which results in more colour in that particular area. The recesses will also absorb much more of it
>>
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help a beginner guys.

I try to use wet palette but it doesn't seem right. I'm using vallejos, baking paper and the box has a nice, tight cover but paints get all "split".

pic related, i used them yesterday (day 1) and they were fine, but today its impossible to mix them back to a proper consistency.

What am i doing wrong?
>>
>>54251112
Gib him a cloak.
>>
>>54251727
Are you shaking your paint up before squeezing it out?
>>
>>54251727
Is that a wet pallate you're using?
If so then you're propably putting a too much water in it, and it basically comes through the paper and eventually starts watering down your paint.

Use less water, and remeber to shake your paints well before putting it on the pallate.
>>
>>54251727
>>54251861
Or it could be the baking paper itself. I don't recommend using the thin and/or cheap ones.
>>
>>54251727
You're not supposed to leave them overnight and expect to use again.

New day new paints.
>>
>>54251861
This; water is overthinning (aka breaking) the paint. Your sponge is just supposed to be damp.
>>
>>54248038
>>54248055
>>54249904

Holy shitballs, whatever primaris marine with 2 basecoats gets 5 (you)'s but these get passed by? Get your shit together /tg/.

How long you've been sculpting and do you have a gallery (sotavasara/elsewhere?)?
>>
>>54251807
>Are you shaking your paint up before squeezing it out?
yeah i used this paints yesterday and they were fine.

>>54251861
>>54251727 #
>too much water in it, and it basically comes through the paper and eventually starts watering
I just made the towel fairly moist, the paper stuck to it but is not swimming in water. Honestly i thought that water going through the paper is the point of wet palette... Ill try with less water.
>>
>>54251727
1. you're using too much water, and as a result:
2. moisture from the pallate eventually waters down the paint
3. You're not supposed to use the same paint for more than a single day
>>
>>54251911
>>54251970
Nah just mix them up again, water separating from paint is normal.
>>
>>54252013
Lolno. If you've added water to the point where the pigment has separated out from the paint's medium, that paint is fucked.
>>
>>54249997
>>54250067

What colour scheme are you using on them? Homebrew?
>>
>>54251910
>Or it could be the baking paper itself. I don't recommend using the thin and/or cheap ones.
I can try with different one, i haven't seen other brands myself but i'm not a housewife.

>>54251727
> You're not supposed to leave them overnight and expect to use again.
> New day new paints
Wet palette tutorials claim they should be ok for even 2-3 days, but would be great if some other anon could confirm.
>>
>>54252086
If you dont want the pigment to separate, you need to use an acrylic medium (not water).

Also dependant on paint itself, metallics and other technicals won't hold their consistency for long.
>>
>>54245710
>the Conqueror
>dies to a hobbo and his gay friend
>>
>>54252045
Separation happens when paint sits. That's why you shake them in their pots. It's really not got a lot to do with the amount of water in there and overthinning isn't a thing.
>>
>>54246682
>>54247561
>>54248254

I was under the impression Nurgle stood not only for decay and death, but new life.

Is a titanic rotting baby not very nurgle? I'll add more pus and blisters
>>
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>>54250067
>>54249997

I myself uses Duncan's Toxic Bases on my Nurgle Woc:ers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=na26t36C7X4

In Duncan we Trust.
>>
>>54252314
new life is the opposite of everything that nurgle stands for, stagnation and decay.
>>
>>54252314
nurgle is entropy incarnate.
>>
>>54252430
He is also the god of rebirth and the cycle of life.
>>
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>>54252314
Nurgle is indeed a also a god of life.

>>54252430
>new life is the opposite of everything that nurgle stands for, stagnation and decay.

That's objectively false. Nurgle loves life. He just has no qualms about killing a hundred humans if it generates and/or sustains millions of insects, viruses and bacteries.
>>
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Alright /tg.

The axe, yes or no?

I'm not too convinced myself but I'm not sure I could do that much better.
>>
>>54252516
I like it. He just looks so determined with that pose and axe.
>>
>>54252516

IMO, he looks a little lacklustre in that pose due to his jetpack. If he had robes or something flowing on behind him as he stepped forward, would definitely make it look a lot more dramatic.
>>
>>54252430
Completely false.

nurgle is about the circle of life.

Nurgles domain is teeming with life, hence why it's called the garden of Nurgle.
>>
>>54252558
>IMO, he looks a little lacklustre in that pose due to his jetpack. If he had robes or something flowing on behind him as he stepped forward, would definitely make it look a lot more dramatic.

I realize we're all a bunch of daring greenstuff artistes here at WIP, but there isn't going to e a whole lot >>54252516 can do about the pose. This model is an only-slightly-modified Space Marine Lord Executioner. They were only made in resin, not in plastic or metal, so chopping this guy up and causing a problem could be costly - but what about this hobby *isn't?*

This model seems to me to make the perfect 8th company (assault reserve) captain. I also like to imagine that he is the Second Edition assault squad sergeant, having survived and served meritoriously for decades to rise to the command of his own company.
>>
>>54245235
Keep in mind that loren forest is a layerpaint so it won't cover the primer as well as an actual basepaint
>>
>>54252633
>we're all a bunch of daring greenstuff artistes

Oh no, not me. I've never sculpted green stuff before. Just my thoughts on it, it might be the dark colours makes his jetpack seem bigger or proportionally his upper body is off-balance.

But overall, the paint job is really well done.
>>
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Alright I just got a ton of marines super cheap, most of them are primed. Now it's time to ask WIP for some help/advice

The issues are most of them have mold lines under the primer, which I can handle no problem.

5 of the terminators seem like they're from dark vengeance which I want to ask how many wings and feathers are too many for crimson fist terminators?

Some of them look like they might be over primed, since the details appear to be clogged with primer but it could be the fact those are metal so I don't know.

Which brings me to my next part, I've never worked with metal so how does one take off excess metal and drill barrels?

Bonus points if you can tell me what in gods name I do with this guy in the pic after remembering I want to make them crimson fists.

P.S. First post
>>
>>54252430
then what purpose would nurglings and shit serve? idiot.
>>
>>54251112
swap the tabbard, shoulder plates, head, and base of the weapon, should be a good start
>>
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>>54251989
Don't have a gallery of my own, I posted one of my sculpts on sotavasara because early on I wanted to gauge the local community impression on scratch build models. Think I posted my Narn and Amon models.

Then I had a short-lived work in progress thread on the PeePee forums before the great cleansing, but I got so busy with work when it was active and couldn't find the time to continue sculpting.
>>
>>54252723
>5 of the terminators seem like they're from dark vengeance which I want to ask how many wings and feathers are too many for crimson fist terminators?
Mexicans are Native Americans too, yanno. I'm not sure how Aztecy you can go with the CF colors, but it's an idea.
> Which brings me to my next part, I've never worked with metal so how does one take off excess metal and drill barrels?
Needle files, maybe some fine grit sandpaper if you can. Normal drill bits for the barrels. Reprimer lightly after they're clean.
>Bonus points if you can tell me what in gods name I do with this guy in the pic after remembering I want to make them crimson fists.
Can you sculpt? Maybe make it look more like a jaguar mask?
>P.S. First post
Neat
>>
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>>54246989
>>
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hey guys im planning on doing a converted chaos lord for my army and iv written some fluff about my dudes. my leader im planning in gonna have a moon shaped sword like the image. any idea how i can achieve this, plastic card? etc?
>>
>>54248038
>>54248055

You sculpted all of that? No greenstuff casting? If so, that's super impressive.
>>
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>>54252712
>Oh no, not me. I've never sculpted green stuff before.

I was being facetious. My greenstuff skills are pretty much limited to embellishing hair on models that are bald. Always going for that Adonaic aesthetic with my Blood Angels...

>Which brings me to my next part, I've never worked with metal so how does one take off excess metal and drill barrels?

You'll need needle files for the former, and a pin vise for the latter. Army Painter makes a great pin vise that has a rotating handle on one end.

When drilling barrels, it's a good idea to nick the centerline of barrel first with the tip of your hobby knife. This little divot will serve as a guide when you bring in the actual drill bit. Metal works pretty much the same as plastic in this regard.

>Bonus points if you can tell me what in gods name I do with this guy in the pic after remembering I want to make them crimson fists.

Trade him to a buddy of yours that collects Space Wolves. If you can't, the wolf-head helmet is a separate bit. You might be able to pry it off and replace it with a bog-standard Mk VII get-up.
>>
>>54252944
Aww life's ruf for us all. Hope you'll find new availability of time and inspirations to continue at some point. Your pieces are very inspiring.

With regards, another Funlander :-DD
>>
>>54253321
Johnny be good.
>>
>>54250591
thanks buddy, any actual suggestions other then ripping me a new asshole?

>>54252051
I guess, its bone color based + copper rust
>>
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>>54253288
All hand sculpted an' shieeeet.

I do use Magic Sculp modelling putty more and more frequently now. I find it works better for harder surfaces that need to be smooth, or even cloth, while greenstuff works for soft flesh.

>>54252944
Though I'm not restricted to warmachine and hordes. I did a commission sculpt for a fellow hobbyist a couple years back that was a terminator armoured dark apostle whose look I designed and then sculpted based on his approval. Of course, in my haste to get it sent to the commissioner, I forgot to take pictures of the finished model.

Nearly every inch of his plating was covered in those dark runes. Those with clever eyes will note they're Daedric runes.

>>54253346
Hey thanks. It's nice to hear from a fellow memester. ebin :-DDD
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRHG5lj4Sno

>tfw no tranny miniatures expert to teach you how to use liquid greenstuff
>>
>>54253615
I think the thing is that much of the marines in particular just looks like it was painted white then washed sepia. Try and pick out more small details with some more colours, I'd suggest something contrasting to the warm colours you have like blues or greens.

Also building contrast within the colours you have would be good, so darker shadows and lighter highlights.
>>
>>54254059
alright i can do that on the armor. but the champions have so much fucking detail its sick. Also contrast color i have so far is red, should i switch to a dark green?
>>
>>54254126
Just went back to look at the pic again. The red is fine but the overall impression is very orangey brown for the whole army, so yes you want to break that up and dark green may work in small doses, and in general you need some darker shadows.
>>
>>54254324
i can repaint the armor i quite like the look fo the center 5 converted marines >>54250067 but the new stuff has so much fucking shit going on its like a circus show
>>
>>54254436
Eh don't repaint everything on my advice. To be honest, if you just pulled your finger out and based them properly with some nice contrasting colder colours it would probably do it.
>>
>>54252915
Any suggestions on what to replace them with?
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