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WIP - Work In Progress General

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Thread replies: 346
Thread images: 81

File: johnny_collage_WIP_banner04.jpg (422KB, 1280x1201px) Image search: [Google]
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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>While the enemies of The Emperor still draw breath, there can be no peace.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEQM9sbQ4fk

>Previous Threads:
>>53878271
>>53855809
>>53833829
>>53810596
>>
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Working on this Nob for a squad of shoota boyz, making his shoota extra flash so it's a kustom shoota.
I also decided to give him a different hand, and make his gun the choppa. I kinda want it to look like he's signalling the boyz to frag em.
Unfortunately, the inside of that hand is entirely flat, so I want to put something inside. Ideas? I was thinking maybe a space marine helmet or an ork skull.
>>
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>>53902383
Another shot
Yes I know there are a gorillian mold lines, I'm going to work on that
>>
God damn guys I really fucked up. I primed half my army in Army Painter Bone spray primer and then realized it wasn't what I wanted to do because of my severe Autism for painting and the shit won't come off at all. I've tried simple green and super clean and let them soak for well over 72 hours and I still can't get most of it off. I'm thinking about buying an ultrasonic cleanser and letting them sit in that but if that doesn't work I think I'm just gonna sell them on ebay, lose money on them, and start with new models.

TLDR I primed my guys wrong and it won't come off, should I keep trying to get the shit off or sell them and start over?
>>
>>53902484

Rubbing alcohol removes my army painter primer.
>>
>>53902383
>>53902394
I like how he's throwing his hand up, as if saying "COME ON? REALLY?"
>>
>>53902383
While I like the hand up in the air, you could always put one of their grenades in there.
>>
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Testing out how to make Rough Riders. First attempt using Perry Miniature's Napoleonic Heavy Cavalry with Warzone Ducal Militia.
Something seems off, but I can't put my finger on it. He seems too large for the horse maybe?

>inb4 moldlines or gaps
Just a rough test here.
>>
>>53902728
>>53902741
The issue with that is that the inside of the hand is completely textureless. It's all flat.
>>
>>53902484
Dettol works. I assume you're USA, but maybe you can access some
>>
Does anyone have experience with a soul grinder? Looking into making a soul grinder of nurgle and I dislike the head the ones pictured on games workshop have.

Do you know if the kit comes with alternate heads?
>>
>>53902751
I'll tell you what's off. His legs are too short or he's sitting in a weird way and he is way to big for that horse.
>>
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Gave my old captain some attention for the new edition. Magnetized him some new weapons and cleaned up some old messes. A bit sad he can't really bring anything similar to the prinarchs wrath that I was representing with a heavy bolter, but it's hard to be unhappy with Dorn's personal loadout.
>>
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And then I painted one of the company's newest friends!

Tried out Dunc's drybrush fists recipe. Pretty easy.
>>
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>spend ages removing mold lines on daemons
>moving things out of the room as part of summer cleaning
>look at daemon while in bright living room, sun shining in
>mold lines everywhere

so in other news I got a lamp for my hobby setup. My bulbs are all too stronk for it, though, so I have to postpone building for another day.
>>
>>53903606
>when your regiment accidentally brings the shaving manual instead of the grudge book
They look dusty and the gold needs a highlight. Other than that they look alright.
>>
>>53904006

Mold lines stay visible even when they're not really there. Run a fingernail over it and see if you can feel it.

When I sand down my sprue nubs, I can still see them, but after I paint them they're invisible.
>>
>>53903606
Great work, anon. I especially like the shields.
>>
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Oi WIP, is normal beach sand okay to base your model with or does it just flake off/pain on the arse to deal with? Going to use it base pic related. Also any other basing ideas you guys would think would work better on these models would be great.
>>
>>53904253

Sand is sand, nigga, hobby sand doesn't have special properties that allow it to stick to bases more than beach sand. All sand will flake off if you don't apply it correctly.

Bake that sand to sterilize it before you use it, you don't know how many dog turds, teenager semen, and HIV needles have been in it.
>>
>>53904253
It might be too coarse for your purposes.
>>
>>53904277
Live in western australia our sand is best sand. Was just curious about basing in general, never based before and was wondering if sand is a prick to base with
>>
>>53904306
Shoving spiky Tyranid miniatures up his rectum?
>>
>>53904306
Any alternatives you think would work well with those models?
>>
>>53904311

It's not too bad, but you do have to make sure you put down a piece of paper cause it can get a tiny bit messy. You spread some PVA school glue/Elmer's glue (thinned with water if you want) on the base, then dunk it in a bunch of sand, wait a few seconds, then lift the model out, hold it sideways or upside down, gently tap off the extra sand, then let it dry.

You should then seal it with some watered down PVA glue, primer, and/or varnish before painting.

This is the same method to do grass and flock, paint on glue and dunk or sprinkle. The dunking is what makes it fun.
>>
>>53904328
Cheers bro, ill keep that in mind. Thanks for info
>>
>>53904253
Imma be honest here, I don't really get whats the big deal. I use sand from a playground near my house to base my nids, I just apply "Elmers Glue-All multi-purpose glue" and done.

Couple tips tho:
1. give the base a very quick and rough paintjob in a sandy color, that way the black doesnt show through the sand
2.When I apply the glue, it covers the entire base, but very thinnly. As Duncan says, thin your glue.
3. You will need several layers to have a strong finish, so have patience and let those bases dry before applying another thin coat of glue.
4. I don't think it should flake off if you apply it properly. None of my sand is giving me any trouble, it deosn't even come off when I try to rub it off.
>>
>>53904592
>I don't think it should flake off if you apply it properly. None of my sand is giving me any trouble, it deosn't even come off when I try to rub it off.

STOP RUBBING YOUR BASES
>>
>>53904597
I don't rub my bases.
I based my first Grey Knight just like my Tyranids, though, and then realized I wanted to give them lava bases instead. So I tried to get rid of the sand, but goddammit, that stuff sticks. I got about half of it off before I decided "screw it, I'll just paint over it now, I ain't dealing with this shit"
>>
>>53904597
Fuck you I'll rub my bases if I want you can't stop me
>>
>>53904592
>playground
Im surprised any one from the chan is allowed near playgrounds
Thabks for the info though my dude. Good to know that actual sand is viable and cheers for tips. Do younalso have tonthin the very firstblayer flue that sand sticks to or just the sealing layers?
>>
>>53904645
>Im surprised any one from the chan is allowed near playgrounds

They won't be after the cops see them crouching in one scooping up sand. Go during the day? Suspicious cause there's kids around. Go during the night? Suspicious cause it's the fucking night.
>>
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>>53904645
>playground
I got my sand from there once and just filled up a container about two years ago, and haven't had to refill since.

I thin the first layer of glue, and like a different anon said, dunk it into a small container of sand.
The second layer is mainly for covering up any areas that don't have enough sand on them already, which looks pretty bad if you can see the black base through the white/yellow/beige (what color is sand?) of the sand. Like I said, thats why I paint the base beforehand (I use Tallern Sand, for your reference, since the sand I use is a bit darker than usual)
>>
>>53904592
>Mommy why is that fat man scooping up sand?
>>
>>53904696
kek
>>
File: gimme dat sand.jpg (42KB, 450x322px) Image search: [Google]
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>>53904696
>he wants to go back to wonderland, Timmy.
>>
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First step done, now the base and clean the axe really enjoy to paint my victorious dwarf
what do you think?
>>
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So I just found this comparison chart. I found it pretty fucking interesting/useful, so I'm going to drop it here for you mooks in case you guys haven't seen it. Found it from "Massive Voodoo".
>>
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>>53901237
still looking for critiques that arent about the file size

my first ultra marines, gonna paint the whole box set this way.
>>
>>53904796
I like the assembly of the dwarf itself. The head is always a cool edition. Maybe green stuff in a wind pipe or some spine? The square base is an odd choice. Are you going to style and paint it with stone city floor? The sharp edge may look odd. Cork seems to be a decent alternative. Good job though.
>>
>>53904948
The table runner is hideous and i really wonder why you have a dark varnish on the woodwork when most people are going after the skandi look.

More highlights on the metalic trim would be nice.

The file size is too big, why are you creating a collage when you can just post 5 times with 5 small pictures?

How do you plan to base it?
>>
>>53904948
Looks good anon both smooth an neat. A little dark for my tastes. You could do with highlighting that sword and gun though imo
>>
>>53904317
You can buy sand meant for miniatures.
All I'm saying it depends on where you get it.
>>
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>>53905064
>why are you making a collage when you could just post 5 images

People autistically screeched at me last time for posting seprrate images, i just want to make tg happy

Im not sure on the base, i usually base like pic related since im fucking lazy, but i could do something else
>>
>>53904948
Lighten that thing up, that's not an ultramarine looks more like a crimson fist with that deep blue.
If your painting smurfs atleast use a white basecoat the blue will show a lot brighter.
>>
>>53904897
>you have to eat all the eggs
>>
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>>53905255
>>
>>53905255
Thanks for the input, not for nothing but the camera makes it darker than it really is. I only used macragge blue since i didnt want to grt the blue layer gw sells just to paint smurfs
>>
>>53905255
Nothing wrong with dark; it's closer to their RT colors (which maybe makes sense, since they're Girlyman's boys)
>>
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I've never used green stuff before, any advice on how to recreate the masks in pic related?
>>
>>53905384
where was this picture taken from?
>>
>>53904897
God damn I gotta get me that aero vision space
No idea what for but it looks amazing
>>
>>53905709
my fucking nigger
I know, that shit is like 80% of why I even posted it here
I saw it and was like "Aw hell yeah"
>>
>>53905605
The shadow war Armageddon box
>>
>>53905384
these look rad as fuck
>>
>>53905709
Alright so some ideas; Dark Eldar portals. Lizardmen weapons (since they got that spacefarer thing going for them now). Eldar gems. Probably some Necron shit, like the Nightbringer. Tzeentchian things, like staves or what have you. Maybe the shoulders for some space-themed space marines chapter.
>>
>>53905384

>Blood Raven Scouts

I just want to make Cyrus from Dawn of War 2.
>>
>>53906027
>Dawn of War 2
My current project is Dawn of War 1 and 2 based, including most of the Characters.
>>
>>53905384
I would bits order the face grill head from the scout biker box and fill in the grill and put goggles on it.
>>
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>>53904948
>tfw you will never be able to paint like this

The back of the legs look great, but maybe add more highlights? The helmet could be brighter
>>
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First 40k model in a long time. Where the hell can you get Black Templar transfers these days?
>>
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>>53906131

what's your current progress? I'd love to see it.
>>
>>53906661
Maybe consider touching up his holster and highlighting his hair

You can find transfers on ebay for like 2 bucks
>>
>>53906703
Will do anon, haven't finished cleanup/highlighting (and obviously basing) yet.

Just picked up 5 sheets from eBay, not sure why I didn't think of that. Thanks anon!
>>
>>53904253
Great paintjobs!
>>
WIP it good
>>
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>>53903963
I like it, anon.
>>
Has anyone ever tried Drybrushing Ork skin? How does it look? I got a bunch of boys to paint and I'm considering my options.
>>
>>53906661
just freehand bro
>>
>>53906621
>>53904948
Its not even that good, its tabletop at best.

The blue is way too dark for ultrmarines, and why would you ever choose gold trim over red trim. Also he decals are sloppy
>>
>>53907844
>decal is sloppy
Bro wtf are you talking about
>>
>>53907844
I swear you people are just looking for any stupid reason to criticize a model
>The blue is way too dark for ultrmarines
Jesus fucking Christ does it matter if the blue is darker than normal
Anyone who knows what an ultramarine looks like will look at that and say "Yep, that's an ultramarine"
>>
>>53908027
>>53908027
The model is done to a degree that they cannot achieve, so they cant put in any realy critisism that isnt pure autism

Happens all the time when someone posts a good paint job
>>
>>53905064
fuck up idiot, bigger images is better than posting 5 times, makes thread hit bump limit faster etc. all you poorfags with shit internet whinging and whining about file sizes need to fuck off.
>>53907844
because gold trim is better objectively and darkness of the blue is subjective. kill yourself.

THink of it like this, if someone complains about filesize, they are poor, like poor to the point where they wouldn't be able to afford models, paint and brushes. They are fuckheads that need to die. you are fine. Your painting is about the standard of Duncan, albeit, not quite as consistent/neat. You're doing well and you still have room for improvement but you're on the right track. If you would like tips on improving the primaris marine, my best advice would be to watch painting buddha videos and when you feel confident enough dive into trying those techniques.
>>
>>53905249
see
>>53908129
>>
>>53901237
What the fuck OP!? why do you have a collage of johnnies in your image? and why is it so fuck huge? resize that shit, are you kidding me!??!?!
>>
>>53903957
Chainsword could use some highlights, the red's a bit flat.
Yellow looks good though.
>>
>>53906661
They ought not be too hard to find, just Google Templar Cross decal.
>>
>>53903963
>everyone tells you drybrushing looks like shit
>this model looks wonderful.
>>
>>53904948
stronger highlights.
>>
>>53908584
Like all techniques, it's a matter of execution.
It's quite easy to ruin a model if you drybrush it too much, but get the balance right and it'll work quite well.
>>
>>53908584
It looks like he did an edge highlight as well. By in large, drybrushing -does- look like ass. Like that video Duncan just put up...
>>
>>53904277
>Bake that sand to sterilize it before you use it, you don't know how many dog turds, teenager semen, and HIV needles have been in it.

Honestly, you are mostly baking it to get rid of the moisture. Most nasty shit can't actually live in sand for all that long.
>>
>>53904253
beach sand is probably too fine grit to work. you can buy good sand at a craft store i believe.
>>
>>53908779
true, you'll want river sand, it's more angular (the grains that is) and as such is nicer for basing and sculpting.
>>
>>53907464
Thanks, bro
>>53908584
Right? Like others said, there was a final edge highlight too that really makes it work and is so easy to do on these primaris guys. I'm definitely switching to this method for my infantry.
>>
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>>53906661
Nice work brother! Really like your shoulder pads. I am also expanding my crusade, the new marines are quite enjoyable to paint
>>
>>53908661
No!
>>
>>53909738
Thanks! The formula I use is:
Base Vallejo Panzer Grey -> 2 coats P3 Menoth White Base over the whole shoulder -> 2 coats P3 Menoth White Highlight, one over the entire shoulder and the second over everything but the outermost edge -> 1 coat P3 Morrow White over the highest surface -> lightly wash with Seraphim Sepia
>>
>>53908705
I didn't think that DA looked like ass; not fantastic, but better than raw plastic.
>>
>>53909918
I could get similar results by making casts of primarines and using black and green dye in the resin.
>>
>>53909776
this

those highlights are fucking choice as they are, not to strong, and not too dim.
>>
>>53904948
That's dark enough that it's eating your highlights. Drybrush it with a lighter be to spread the color around.

I also would not have applied a transfer until I was sure the color was right.
>>
>>53904948
Looks really good.

Table top +

If there's a scale. Then that's a 7/10.
>>
>>53910077
>anon obviously spent hours highlighting
>you can see, especially on the backpack, there are layers of highlights

and you suggest he drybrush?
nigga.
>>
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two hours and I still haven't finished the basecoats.

I added a little deathguard-let for an idea of the finished product.
>>
>>53910160
Drybrushing lightens the main surfaces as well as the edges and anon is using a paint dark enough that it's eating some of his details.

Yes, I recommend a drybrush. And you ain't my nigga.
>>
>>53910189
drybrush would 100% ruin the model

its such a clean and neat job, and drybrushing is not clean or neat.
>>
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>>53910176
Also lads, how would heavily done up Primaris look, in that 2nd edition style?

I'm talking like chequers, flames, yellow guns, script, 2 decals, freehands. Basically squads of this.
>>
>>53910223
primaris marines have well executed and neat models, I think the extra flash would detract form that.
>>
>>53910223
Fucking do it!

goblin green rim, and grassed bases as well.
>>
>>53910258
I did worry about that.

Primaris are very clean, long models. I worry a heap of shit on every surface might look bad.
>>
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Early on my wych kill team.
Was going to go with solid red armor, but part way through I started thinking having a mix of red and black might be better. Opinions on that?
Also, unsure what hair color or colors to go with.
>>
>>53910220
Spoken like an anon who doesn't know how to drybrush.
>>
>>53910455
dry brushing is not consducive with the art style he is trying to achieve

you are the one who obviously does not know anything, The anon who painted it obviously spent time and effort to avoid having any kind of chalky kind of finish to his model. A dry brush would obviously go against this, as dry brush always leaves a chalky finish

Dry brushing is only for people too lazy or not talented enough to do proper line highlighting anyways, thats why duncan uses it in his vids because those are meant for beginners.

stop giving bad advice.
>>
>>53909738
How did you do the tabards?
>>
>>53908800
>>53908779
Duly noted anons. Ill still test a single model because of the mixed opinions but ill look into river sand if it doesnt work. Cheers blokes
>>
>>53905384
Where can you get those heads from? Which set are they from?
>>
>>53910391
>4.64mb

My opinion is you should kill yourself.
>>
>>53907437
Thanks m8, ive been working pretty hard to try and get better. Still a long way to go though
>>
>>53908705
>Like that video Duncan just put up...
>first the "Battle Ready" videos
>now he's drybrushing space marines
It really is true what they say. You either die a hero, or you live long enough to see yourself become a villain. RIP Duncan. Someone must stay his wicked hand.
>>
>>53910391
I think the red is good over the entire armor. Maybe for hair do something like hot pink or purple?
>>
>>53910747
He has always been a tabletop painter
>>
>>53910807
Sure, but nowadays he's making videos for the lowest possible common denominator. Apparently edge highlights are too hard for the mongoloids he's """teaching""". When I started out they were a challenge but then I got better.
>>
>>53910391
I think having another colour to break things up isnt a bad idea
>>53908129
Putting another human on the same level as duncan, for shame anon. You should no better
>>
>>53910846

I have no horse in this race. Duncan's videos have maintained a steady level of painting quality, with the exception of the "Battle Ready" videos deliberately done for intro boxes.
>>
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Hey dudes. I bought a bunch of mistreated used kroots with a bunch of bits and i'm restoring them. One of them had a broken leg though, and i decided to have a bit of modelling fun. What do you think? He got his leg ripped away protecting a firewarrior unit, and got a bionic leg from the earth caste as a reward. Unfortunately i already have a shaper or else i would have made him one.
>>
>>53910910

Yes mate. Not sure about the antenna on the back being so large though. A small spur would work better.
>>
>>53910391
Going to try mainly red with a few black and bronze parts to break it up.

Purple hair is a decent suggestion too
>>
>>53910690
You first buddy boy
Or you could just get better internet
>>
>>53909738
make sure those guns are red in the red or you are a fegget
>>
>>53910846
he does 2 levels of videos. "Ready for battle". Being tabletop. The other being intermediate.

what's the problem with doing Beginner videos for the new edition?

Who cares?
>>
>>53911111
Nice quints
>>
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>>53910269
PERFECTLY MOWED BATTLEFIELDS ARE CODEX COMPLIANT. FOR ULTRAMAR!
>>
>>53910690
Fuck off, Tehimbatuuti. Some people have internet that isn't African bush tier. Go click at some monkeys.
>>
>>53911142
yuck
>>
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Turned out OK for tabletop I think, couple highlights I want to go in and cleanup after I get the rest of the army ready. Probably the worst Finecast i have ever worked with though, huge gap on the tail-torso connection that looks janky when filled without the same scale texture(i lack the sculpting capability) and a large amount of bubbles.
>>
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I bought a random box of marine models from my friend and these guys were in it.

The one of the left is missing his bolter, would it look too weird if I did something like gave him the multi-melta from an attack bike sprue with he hand of a plastic model to hold it or something on his left hand so I could have a heavy weapon Legionnaire?
>>
Hey guys I need some advice
I finally got ahold of shades (agrax earthshade and nuln oil) I wanted to know, would either of them work well on bronze color? I want to shade my sisters of silence, but i'm not sure.
I also wanted to know if either of them would work for a crimson color, since I wanted to paint Scion armor crimson and their pants grey
>>
>>53911573
Agrax is the best imo. Be careful as it can make the bronze look dirty if you use to much, but the effect can be great.

Crimson I'm not so sure. Probably agrax again.
>>
>>53911573
Gryphonne Sepia is good for both bronze and reds.
>>
>>53911217
The scales really look awesome, you did a great job there. This cast is a bitch to work with, I ended up with three replacements from customer service before I got one without serious bubbling, and even that one wasn't perfect.

The armor looks a little unfinished next to the scales, it could use a brighter highlight and maybe finish/neaten up more of the details (vox-comm thing on shoulder, spikes on gauntlets, etc)
>>
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Fixed up my Kustom Shoota a bit more, gave it longer barrels
>>
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>>53911964
And now he's got a supah gitfinda.
No matter what way you look through it you're sure to find some gits!
>>
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>>53911545
>The one of the left is missing his bolter, would it look too weird if I did something like gave him the multi-melta from an attack bike sprue with he hand of a plastic model to hold it or something on his left hand so I could have a heavy weapon Legionnaire?

Yeah, It'd probably look weird, but who cares?

That particular model is not aiming his bolt gun, but rather holding it at rest as he lobs a grenade. See pic related.
>>
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>>53911142
>PERFECTLY MOWED BATTLEFIELDS ARE CODEX COMPLIANT.

I dig your sense of style.
>>
>>53904948
Next time make sure you get all your Mold lines cleared. The Power pack and the back of the legs has some very noticeable ones. other than that the aforementioned highlights would brighten it up a bit
>>
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but since you lads know your models I might as well ask.

I'm building a small Inquisition warband lead by a radical Ordo Xenos Inquisitor and I want to add some alien mercenaries to it.

My theme is going for strange and weird minor xenos (pic related), so anything you could suggest?
>>
>>53911855
So far the plan is to go up another highlight on the armor so it pops better under normal light, highlight the loin cloth more and the details like the comms unit. Don't know why i just painted it like the armor honestly didn't realize what it was. I'm worried about the sculpts going forward as i want to pick up at least 3 more to fill out a court for my Archon.
>>
>>53904948
You can safely reduce the width of your image to like 1000 pixels and have basically no discernible quality loss.
2653 pixels is almost twice as wide as the average monitor.
>>
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>>53912219
>My theme is going for strange and weird minor xenos (pic related), so anything you could suggest?

If you search hard and have enough money, you could pick yourself up an Ambull. Seems like that'd be almost as much danger to you as to the enemy, though.
>>
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>>53912219

Oh! Oh! How about a Piscean Warrior?
>>
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>>53912219

... or Zoats? Zoats are cool!
>>
>>53911675
>>53911708
thanks guys
does anyone have an example of agrax on something like mephiston or wazdakka?
>>
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>>53901237

Hey WIP anons, DG anon here, promised I'd drop some progress pics today.

Here's a wip of my new IG Kasrkin (will use them as Scions).
I'm going for a mix of green armour with blue-ish grey uniforms (unorthodox, I know).
Honestly I haven't had so much fun painting models in a long while, these minis are fucking fantastic.

P.S. it's REALLY hard to photograph them, I had to improvise a little
>>
Any tips on gesso priming?
>>
>>53912526
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=agrax+on+mephiston+red

Literally the first image result. Show some goddamn initiative anon.
>>
>>53912613
for some reason i didn't expect google to give me any decent results
>>
>>53909822
Thank you, will def. try!
>>
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>>53912526
>does anyone have an example of agrax on something like mephiston or wazdakka?

This is Agrax Earthshade over Evil Sunz Scarlet, which is brighter than Mephiston Red. No other layers or touch-ups have been applied, so this is usually the starting point for me.
>>
>>53912540
looking good Anon, very nice highlights.
>>
>>53912219
>so anything you could suggest?
>>53912417
>>53912445
>>53912479
you can get 'hommage' versions of these RT sculpts from knightmare miniatures.
The ambul incidentially is a mini that was originally a D&D critter, so you can get a few sculpts from Reaper and the other usual suspects aswell.

For the Demiurge you could use a sculpt by Heresy (if they still sell it). Kind of a crystalline dwarf type character.
Though the lore description of what exactly a Demiurge is flip flops a little. But the version in your pic seems to align somewhat with the idea the Heresy sculpt is based on.

In the same way if you want to do a squat you could go on ebay and hunt for one of the WD promo miniatures. One of the more recent ones was wearing a space suit that looked pretty good.
Or you could just use some Grymn from Hasslefree.

Hrud with the cape on are basically just Skaven Jezzail gunners with a hood.
Though there is a classic chaos warrior figure that also sports a Jezzail.
Thing is, since Xenology people argue about what a Hrud is anyway.

Clawed fiends are part of the regular Dark Eldar range. In the 3rd rulebook there was a picture of one with a getup somewhat reminiscent of Chewbacca, which made it look like they were mercenaries too. Seems that has been retconned since the DE version seems to be barely more than a beast.

Tarellian Dog Soldiers are definitely mercenaries that would also work for humans.
I imagine them as Kroxigor like creatures with pew-pew laserguns.
The guy in the top second to the left in your pic is one.
They were also featured in some BL books. In some of the Ghaunt's Ghosts books I think.

I don't remember exactly what the fluff was about Vespids, but that would be another easy option, since you just need to add some imperial flavor to the existing models.
Kroot are also not above working for humans, but you see them a bit more often than Vespids so may not be quite as interesting a model choice for this.
>>
>>53912540
Lore-wise I'm thinking about putting together a post-fall of cadia army, maybe a regiment that was on a mission off planet during the fall, like the 39th "Xenobane" (that's got a nice ring to it).

Also paiting that striped cable was a fun challenge, considering I didn't have any yellow paint.

I'm gonna post more progress tomorrow.
>>
>>53912721
looks good anon, thanks
>>
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Please excuse phonepostimg
>>
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>>53912798
>>
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>>53912540
>look at the thumbnail
What is this shit, can't newfags learn how to ma-
>click on it
SHIT SON THAT'S A CRISP PAINTJOB
>>
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What's the best way to paint black? I've been doing it like this so far but it's impossible to add any battle damage to pure black.
>>
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>>53912774
>The guy in the top second to the left in your pic is one.
sorry meant the right.
Anyway looking at the picture again I seem to have mixed the kroot in that version up with the clawed fiend.
Seems they always were just bestial dudes.

Though looking at the tentacly fellow in this picture I also just remembered some fluff about other aliens the Tau had to deal with.
One was a D&D mindflayer style race. Forgot the name though.

There even was a sidenote about something that sounded suspiciously like Goa'uld in one of the Tau books iirc.
>>
>>53912837
>What's the best way to paint black?
The same principles apply when you paint white. Never use the straight black as a base colour. Always use a slightly lighter tone so you have somewhere darker to go for the shade and damage. I've also seen metallic scratches used on black minis to good effect.
>>
>>53912417
>>53912445
>>53912479
>>53912774
These are all great suggestions, but I was was also considering non-GW stuff. Like, I'm planning on getting a couple of the AvP Predator models and finding something similar to the Mars Attacks martians and what not.

Got any weird alien models that'd work as mercenaries that are non-GW?

>Tarellian Dog Soldiers are definitely mercenaries that would also work for humans.
Most conversions I've seen use basic Saurus as a base.

>Kroot are also not above working for humans,
Definitely gonna have at least a squad of Kroot with some conversions.
>>
>>53912837
Those look good though anon.
>>
>>53912917
So start with something like Eshin Grey?
>>
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>>53912837
Here's an example of somebody using rust red for battledamage on black armor.
If you go by fluff I guess a case could be made that unpainted PA ceramite plates are grey, as per the grey knights.
But even the Grey Knights are not grey anymore, so you could just as well use a metal color.

It's not that it can't be done you just have to make a choice. You could even say your dudes' last campaign was on a desert world so under their regular black armor they got campaign camo paint jobs from their last deployment or whatever.
>>
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>>53912875
>Though looking at the tentacly fellow in this picture I also just remembered some fluff about other aliens the Tau had to deal with.

Could that be an Enslaver?
>>
>>53903963
Link? I want this in my life
>>
>>53912923
>and finding something similar to the Mars Attacks martians and what not.
Mantic has a Mars Attacks game with plastic minis.
If you want a somewhat toned down version of that check out reaper. They have a small series of Alien Overlord minis that basically hit the same notes.
They also have a bunch of other aliens and robots that may work.

Mantic in General is a great place for odds an ends. Their whole Dreadball and Deadzone Rebels range is an almagation of weird aliens.
Their Tiger Corps box is a mercenary unit of aliens I think. May come in handy.


>>53912995
Yeah I think that's it. I've seen a guy convert some auxiliaries that kind of looked like mindflayers too, so I may have gotten that mixed up in my memory.
>>
>>53912540
holy shit that's really nice
nostaliga/10
>>
>>53912999
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=duncan+imperial+fists+video

Is this general full of invalids?
>>
>>53912923
>>53913055
Come to think of it you should definitely check out the Rogue Stars Range from Northstar Miniatures.
And the minis for it by Ganesha games.

The facebook group recently changed from public to closed, but there were tons of obscure alien and sci-fi miniatures in there too.
>>
>>53903963
That recipe works well because it glazes over the drybrush to blend it back into the armor. It's an absolutely crucial step to make drybrushing not look like chalky ass and people constantly refuse to do it for some reason.
>>
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>>53913093
>Is this general full of invalids?

Emperor's Teeth! There're too many of them!
>>
>>53913093
nigger google sucks, I ain't looking up shit
>>
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Still learning. Rate, hate?
>>
>>53913449
im not a fan of the colors, but bseides that it doesnt look too bad

on the right grack, just be carefully of weathering and color combos
>>
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>>53912837
Google Black 2.0 paint. Use that for shading.
>>
>>53913358
>google sucks
It was the very first result you lazy bum. What are you, some sort of bingdrone?
>>
>>53913481
Vanta Black and its ilk are a little pricey to use for miniature painting, even if their near-absolute blackness would make them awesome for shading black.
>>
>>53913449
Why did you paint the pteruges in metallics like the armour?
>>
>>53913474
Even the idea of weathering freaks me out because I'm afraid I'll ruin it completely.

>>53913546
I thought it looked good :/
>>
>>53913055
>>53913125
Those Rogue Stars minis are brilliant. Thanks for the help, lads.
>>
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>>53912540
>those wires
>those metal parts
>that armor
>all those small details

That looks fucking awesome. I'm not sure about the grey/blue and green combo, but it certainly looks nice on these.
>>
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Posted this in the other WIP thread, but that one seem to be dead...

First try at a vehicle using an airbrush. Needs a good varnishing to seal in the ink on the metallic parts (it keeps coming off whenever it gets wet... got to stop using that shit except in final stages) and the edges of the yellow where the masking fluid pulled it loose. Never used varnish in an airbrush before, bit nervous, especially with the tricky ink.

Wondering if I should do an edge highlight of the yellow areas before varnishing.

After the varnish, I'm going to do some rust, verdigris and soot.
>>
>>53913449
3 colors/10
Add more color, (tabard, weapons handles, sand watch, leather stripes, the rivets,and the string in the bones)thin your paints,specially the metallics. Dont highlight bronce with silver, you need a mid tone between the 2. Neat the highligths with base color.
Keep practicing, I have painted this guy and is not an easy model.
>>
>>53913358

Legit kek'd
>>
>>53913625
This would greatly beneficiate from a wash between panels, and a highlight.
>>
>>53913651
>Dont highlight bronce with silver, you need a mid tone between the 2. Neat the highligths with base color.
Care to elaborate on this? Or with guide in the OP would be worth looking into?
>>
>>53908705
>mfw I was expecting a hell blaster plasma rifle tutorial
>it's just dry brushing some green faggot
>>
>>53913705
Use a lighter bronze for the general highlight. Only use silver on the extreme edges
>>
>>53913723
>mfw I was expecting a hell blaster plasma rifle tutorial
There's already a ton of tutorials on how to do plasma.
>>
>>53912774
>Tarellian Dog Soldiers are definitely mercenaries that would also work for humans.
Don't they hate the imperium?
>>
>>53911988
I love the concept, but you proabably want to reinforce those sights with a little bit of plasticard because they will snap off otherwise. It's very annoying because I love the look of those bits, but they are possibly the single most easily broken bit in the entire GW range (and god knows there are some serious contenders).
>>
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I've made a guy.
Help me improve this color scheme.
>>
>>53913705
I dont know exactly the gw colors range, but to highlight that bronce I would give a edge highlight of sicorax bronce, and then a highlight only on the most prominent edges with silver.
If you mess up highlights you can always return to the previous color to get thinner lines on the edges and fix mistakes.
>>
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>>53913893
>Help me improve this color scheme.

What chapter is this - the Bloody Gloves?
>>
>>53913893
>>53913971
You have to be 18 to post here.
>>
>>53913971
>>53913893
It looks like Anon went for the Emperor's Shadows, but made them a bit too black.
ie. add more red or bone to beef up the contrast.
>>
>>53912798
>>53912817
fukken sexy
>>
>>53913971
Crimson Fist/Black Templar successor chapter? idunno.
>>
>>53913893
I like the scheme, meaby bolter optics in the same color as the helmet optics. Also dont use a dark base on a dark model, it would look nicer on a clear base I think.
>>
>>53914011
/tg/ is pg.
>>
>>53913625
the skin on those orks is amazing
>>
>>53913893
The red hand looks kind of weird. I'd just do it black.

The pouches seem too lacking in colour. Maybe have them be yellow-brown or red like the faceplate.

Not a fan of the knee-guards having two different colours. Pick on an do the whole thing in it.

A black guy standing on a dark grey base doesn't work well for me. Maybe more brown on the ground, some coloured stripes (it looks kind of urban, so maybe road markings) or a bit of snow could help make the figure stand out more.

Overall, looks like a good start. Eyes look exceptional, muted palette is nice.
>>
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I will join the rank of those painting dark imperium. Dont make the same mistake I did and paint the best model in the box as the test model.
Also, thougths?
>>
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Where is your Emperor now mortal?
>>
>>53914143
learn to weather don't just dump blue shit in it.

That base is awful paint it.

Other wise it's a solid paint job.
>>
>>53913625
pinwash, man

pick out the panels and rivets
>>
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>>53914144
Chaos lord was sick of taking shit for being a manlet so he started lifting.
>>
>>53914143
I don't know, it looks kind of flat, maybe some deeper shades and stronger highlights.
>>
>>53914126
Thanks. Took me a while. Base was tausept ochre (which I think is the old version of averland sunset), highlighted with screaming skull and yriel yellow, bit of evil sun scarlet for the soft tissue, wash of agrax earthshade then covered the lot with several layers of elysian green mixed with matte medium.

Probably going to be barely visible once the canopy is on @_@
>>
Never painted skin before and now I have Primaris marine heads to do

Where to start?
>>
>>53914261
Painting clinic on youtube.
>>
>>53914167
That's going on during the weathering, after the varnish. Too much risk of it lifting the existing paint and making the inks run before then.
>>
>>53914332
Gloss varnish it then you faggot.
>>
>>53914229
saving this thanks got any more ork pics?
>>
>>53914354
Looks like you're a lazy fuck who didn't clean up the mold lines
>>
>>53914354
its not too dark, crimson fists is way darker than that
>>
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>>53914394
>>53914395
deleted the last image because its 7mb and I dont want anons to cry about it

took better pictures now that the sun is out.

do you guys really think this blue is too dark? some anons were complaining it looked more like crimson fists.

>>53914394
im just noticing the lines now, I did this last night, so i didnt notice them then.
>>
Never painted skin before and now I have Primaris marine heads to do

Where to start?
>>
>>53914011
Why would someone under the age of 18 know about OJ's glove?
>>
>>53914425
youtube

old duncan does a good vid on skin.
>>
>>53914332
>after the varnish.
okie doke, just making sure

I find it hard to judge airbrush jobs until after the final washes and stuff happens.
>>
>>53914420
You have literally nub marks on every piece of the kit. How do you not notice this?
>>
>>53914456
i see the mold lines but not the nubs

mond pointing them out?
>>
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>>53914481
>>
>>53914562
half of that is just paint
and most of the other half is dust, I work in the basement next to a wood furnace and its impossible for me to keep all the dust out

Also said nubs not mold lines

how autistic are you to notice the top one in the first pic?
>>
>>53914595
Hey look guys we have another one of those "I want advice" guys who flip their shit and make excuses when you give them the advice they ask for.
>>
>>53914162
>>53914205
Thanks. Redoing the base and the highligths on the armor.
>>
>>53914763
The highlights are subtle but well done. If you're happy with it don't change it. It's honestly a solid model if that's your style, work with what you naturally do and you will go much further than fighting yourself all the time.
>>
>>53914615
I think there's a difference between painting advice and pointless nitpicking. I'm not saying you should leave mold lines, I try to clean up my models as much as possible but sometimes you miss stuff and when you ask for advice and expect people to give you good advice about painting and advanced modelling stuff, it tends to be frustrating when you get someone telling you to clear mold lines or drill barrels instead of anything remotely in depth or useful
>>
>>53914847
Keep whining bitch. No one is going to help you become a PRO PAINTER when you can't even do basic prep work. It's like asking a chef how to make a stew when you refuse to cut vegetables up.
>>
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Are there any idiot-proof guides how to not fuck up my brushes? I have started painting few weeks ago with my only brushes - Citadel M Base and Citadel Starter Brush. Since the beginning there was something wrong with M base but Starter Brush was ok. Now the M Base tuft is hard as fuck and I can't make "a tip" with starter brush. Probably I will buy a new ones but don't want to make any mistakes with them.

Also are there any cheaper alternatives for citadel brushes? Maybe something usable from chinaman? I'm painting skavens so I need only three brushes to be honest - something big to paint bigger areas like machines quickly and clanrats bodies, something medium for smaller parts like weapons and spikes and a really small one for eyes and other tiny details
>>
>>53914878
>>53914878
>It's like asking a chef how to make a stew when you refuse to cut vegetables up.
That's a poor analogy, clearing mold lines is not like cutting vegetables up it's more like peeling vegetables. Cutting up vegetables is more along the lines of assembly if you ask me. I think you're being rather unreasonably strict about a hobby.
Also I should note that if you respond to people trying to talk rationally with hostility then no one will take you seriously.
>>
what's the craft store equivalent to shades?
>>
>>53914898
wash them with dish soap after every use
>>
>>53914977
He's right though. They really bring the quality of the miniature down and show that you don't care. Why help someone if they're not going to put in the basic effort?

Sorry if this comes across as harsh but you're on /wip/ not /r/Warhammer40k. You're going to get constructive advice on how to improve, not smoke blown up your ass.
>>
>>53913893
Brighter gold and make the hands and kneecaps symmetrical would be my advice. If the hands are gonna be red then the bolter needs to change too, maybe just solid gunmetal colour or white?
>>
>>53914977
Keep whining. You're getting no help from any one beyond remove nubs and clean up mold lines until you do.

>>53914898
You want a size 1 and a size 2 brush for 99% of your work. Size 1 will do everything but dot eyes and be your work horse.

Cheaper alternatives would be army painter but they're not great quality. I'm trying Rosemary and co at the moment and they're not bad brushes but a bit expensive. Usually winsor and newton are recommended but they're for good painters who need top tier brushes and as a newer painter you will only end up destroying them as you learn to paint (as we all did when we began).

Brush care is simple. Buy some brush soap, when you're finished painting rinse them under warm water, use the soap and get it right to the metal part. Give it a minute then wash it out. Once every few painting sessions give them some conditioner (like you use on your hair) after soaping. Other wise not much to say, just watch out for metallics or enamel paints as they're harder on brushes than normal acrylics.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2y8wIJCS-k&list=PL10C32CB2CD611E84 This guys great, he'll help you go far.
>>
>>53915076
Paint+water or ink. Shades aren't even that expensive if you look outside of GW so stop being a poorfag.
>>
>>53915076
Shades are GW's terms for "tones". They're an oil based ink wash and craft stores don't sell anything like those. If you want cheaper try Army painter tones or vallejo inks. Vallejo inks are watery instead of oily but do the job just as well.
>>
>>53915076
flow medium+paint
>>
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>>53914615
you are not giving advice. you are nitpicking things that dont even exist.
>>
>>53915244
Please just go away. You won't listen and you're wasting replies we could use on someone who wants to learn.
>>
>>53911142
I love this
>>
>>53915150
no GW nearby
>>53915206
>>53915232
thanks.
>>
>>53915114
And I understand that, I always come here for painting advice because I know I'm going to get actual criticism, but a lot of times people who point out mold lines only point out mold lines and come across as condescending and not particularly constructive. I just feel kinda miffed about that kind of thing because I've asked for list building stuff and got people telling me to clear mold lines and drill barrels instead of list building advice.
>>
>>53914847
Why I don't post models here myself. It always boils down to thin your paints, drill barrels, mold lines, and drybrush is Satan. There's probably better places to go for advice, though you can sometimes find some here if you dig through the shit
>>
>>53915381
If you don't like it then just clean moldlines and drill your barrels like everyone else does.
>>
>>53915410
Post your model.I promise to give you useful advice if I can.
>>
>>53915381
I'm the guy who offered the mold line advice. I'm a competition tier painter with 20 years experience with both standard and air brush. There is no reason for me to invest my time in someone who can't even do the basics. They clearly do not give a fuck and if I tell them to put on 10 thin coats to make a slow fade or to use a glaze they won't do it. So why the fuck wouldn't you have a basic shit test like mold line clean up?

He's turning up to a job interview wearing a pot leaf t-shirt with mustard stains on it and expecting people to work with him.
>>
>>53915459
Ha, no thanks. I know full well I'm shit, and what to do to improve. I get help from the guy at my flgs who paints up the stores models.
>>
>>53913893
Is his chapter "the hanged"?
>>
>>53915550
Take feedback any where you can get it just learn what is useful and what isn't.
>>
>>53915507
>I'm a competition tier painter with 20 years experience with both standard and air brush.
Could I see some of your models please? This isn't a "prove it" comment I'm just curious.
>>
>>53915594
I would but I'm on a brand new computer and don't have any social media to link to. I will post some in the future but I rarely post stuff here because it doesn't get any response. It's as >>53915410 said. I just lurk here a couple of times a week to try and help newbies.
>>
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>>53915507
Do you know any websites or youtubers for those wishing to learn?
>>
>>53915244
Kek, look at this guy. Your painting is smooth, but boring. Your paints aren't thick, that's good, but the lack of highlights and colours in the joints make the model flat. And he's right. Doesn't matter how good your paints are, mould lines and badly cut pieces would mar the model. They just attracts attention on the wrong part. And cmon, the barrel of your bolter is not dust, it's a piece of badly cut plastic. I suggest you drill a hole so it won't be noticeable. There are also mould lines on his right leg and sword hilt. They ARE noticeable. Maybe not for you because you spent hours looking at the model and thus desensitize yourself from the blemishes, but for us who are unfamiliar with it, the lines are very visible. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all that.
>>
>>53915507
I'm not saying that it's horrible advice and honestly at this point I'm starting to side more with you considering how he's been reacting to your post by trying to dissuade responsibility. I've just had some bad personal experiences on this site before when I've asked for very specific advice completely unrelated to modelling on a thread that wasn't even a wip thread and got clean mold lines and drill barrels. I admit that I have gotten pretty anal about mold lines now and when I see mold lines on my older models I get a little upset. But, criticism is a very complex thing and some people have to be worked around very carefully because it they're showing up to an interview dressed like that, they probably don't know that what they're doing wrong is that big of a deal and a slightly less condescending approach might help them understand better.
>>
>>53915507
dude you sound like an autistic manchild

please go away, noone cares if you are a painting god, if that even is true.


like this anon said
>>53915594
why not post some of your models?
>>
>>53914359
Apparently not on this machine. Will try and get some tomorrow.
>>
>>53915713
Doctor Faust's painting clinic is the best place to learn. His tutorials are very approachable and he does some cool stuff.

When I find a place to host videos I'm going to set up a new channel myself. My problem right now is I refuse to suppose Google so I won't use youtube to host shit.

>>53915723
You have to remember the golden rule of life. 99% of people are fucking retarded. Having actual skill takes more effort than most people are willing to put in so they will just shit post instead.

>>53915769
You have a distinct posting style. You're well on the way to becoming another Black nid/eldar guy
>>
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Well /tg/, I just painted my first model in probably 14 years. Thoughts? Advice?
>>
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>>53901237
Demogorgon, tried painting it like the one in the series.
>>
>>53915812
Heh, good thing that I already subscribe to Faust. Shame about his economical situation, he's a great painter and a nice dude.
>>
>>53915813
ps, i'm aware that it's dreadful.
>>
>>53915713
Not him but
>Kujo Painting
>Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic
>PaintingBuddha
>Epic Duck Studios
Have all been a great help to me.

>Next Level Painting
>Orc Painter Nerd
If you want some good airbrush tutorials. Though the latter's quality is a bit unreliable.
>>
>>53915813
Did you prepare in anyway? Try watching Duncan Rhodes videos on youtube, they're good for beginners. Also, did you even prime the miniature?

ps. Fuck you.
>>
>>53915813
Add shading

>>53915828
He's making $900 a month on patreon. He can't be doing that bad when you look at the kits he's able to buy constantly.

There's not a lot out there unfortunately, like a lot of youtube the creativity has gone from the community and people are now in facebook groups instead. It's a better system to post models and a lot less work to post photos rather than a video.

>>53915839
Aren't half of those dead now?
>>
>>53915814
>le Normie Things meme

looks good!
>>
>>53915923
>Aren't half of those dead now?
Only PaintingBuddha but his tutorials are still up. There's more than enough material left on his channel to git gud.
>>
>>53915923
I suppose his situation must have improved, I remember a video where he told us that he works two jobs to afford his setup.

Anyway is Tamiya cement good for plastic and metal miniatures?
>>
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>>53915812
>You have a distinct posting style. You're well on the way to becoming another Black nid/eldar guy

ooookkkaaaayyyy bud, you are so insightful that you can unmask anons because of how they shitpost.

>black nid / eldar guy
jokes on you, I dont even know what this means.
>>
>>53915813
>Advice?
clean and trim your fingernails, please
>>
>>53915996
That video was from before he launched his Patreon. Hopefully it's taking a bit of the weight off.

>>53916019
>getting this rump roasted that a guy told someone to clean their fucking mold lines
>>
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>>53915723
This is not me >>53915244

>>53915812
whoever is calling you a retard is not me


I appreciate the advice, i just get excited to paint models sometimes and skimp out on the prep
>>
>>53915992

You mean airbrush buddha? Tutorials that require an airbrush are fucking worthless. Beginners that need tutorials the most won't have access to an airbrush, and beginners who jump into the deep end need basic tutorials for even basic airbrushing. Everyone that is advanced at airbrushing won't need tutorials and already knows how to blend.

Basically the only useful info will be NMM at that point.
>>
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>>53904253
I really dig that color scheme, they're like even more dangerous blue crabs
>>
>>53916325
>You mean airbrush buddha?
No....? The vast majority of the tutorials are with a paint brush. Ben Komets never uses airbrushes. What are you talking about?
>>
>>53914181
MAGNETS WITHIN, MAGNETS WITHOUT
>>
>>53904948
He's a big guy
>>
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>>53915589
Sure, why not. Here's my potato models. At least the most recent ones I actually tried on.
>>
Fiddling around with a sentinel box I've had for years and decided to just go nuts with it. Wanted to make a Titanfall inspired Blood Pact army.
>>
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>>53916567

Probably should have added a picture. Woops
>>
>>53915899
i didn't prime it, which i'm sure is a mortal sin. so here's a question: for those of you who live in the city, where do you use spray primers? way back when i was living with my parents and painting stuff, i was in the middle of nowhere, so it wasn't an issue, but here i'm on the 6th floor in a 3 room apartment.
>>
>>53915507
>im a competition tier painter
>doesnt post his work

You sound like "that guy" at game stores that lecture people that they are not using the correct shade of blue on their ultramarines
>>
>>53916642
You could just your shit and go out of your 3 room apartment in the 6th floor and do it in the street outside.
If you got a balcony you could do it there.
And open window and some newspaper laid out works too.
Or get a spraybooth. The most convenient way to do it inside I think.
>>
>>53916694
god i wish i had a balcony
>>
>>53916694
Don't you have an attic? Otherwise you could look for primers that you apply with a brush.
>>
>>53916789
i don't. it's... kind of a weird building. the part i live in is an add-on to an older building. i guess i could use the area out buy the dumpsters, but seeing as it's late june that could be pretty rank...
>>
>>53915381
40k general is probably a much better place to ask for list advice
>>
>>53915813
It looks like you started, but did not finish, painting this miniature. Try some washes and highlights, experiment a little. It's already sorta messed up looking due to assembly mistakes so there's nothing to lose. Try painting along with some of the recent Duncan videos on chads
>>
>>53915814
That looks really nice. You can't beat the grenadier demon sculpts
>>
>>53917018
I just use a patch of asphalt, which also happens to be near some trash receptacles. No one really gives a shit. I also brush prime with Vallejo sometimes
>>
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Could I get some comments/criticism about my Dangles Contemptor? Just got a new lightbox today so I wanted to try taking some better pictures of stuff with it. Sorry the bottom half is kind of out of focus, still gotta tweak settings and get used to it.
>>
>>53917062
I wasn't asking for list advice on a wip thread it was a Shadow War Armageddon thread.
>>
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>>53917502
Here are the two arms seperate, I already know I did an atrocious job highlighting the powerclaw and I haven't got to highlighting the green shoulder armor yet.
>>
>>53914144

Obliterator conversion?
>>
>>53917541
>>53917502
i play ravenwing and almost never paint pure black because you cant shade it

I usually use a really dark grey.
>>
Is it okay to not fix every mold line for a table top quality sister army. It'd take me months to do it... is it acceptable just to really perfect key centerpiece models instead?
>>
Say I wanted to paint some orks wearing denim; how do I paint that?
>>
>>53917714
Fuck off. It's not that hard to do the bare minimum to make your models presentable.
>>
>>53917714
tabletop quality just means it looks good and you cant detect flaws from arms length/on the tabletop. unless the moldlines are extremely obvious I wouldn't worry about it
>>
>>53917714
Depends on who you ask. I'd say it's acceptable to do whatever you want with your models. If your just looking to go tabletop, just try and get the major ones and not stress too much. A painted army with some mold lines is better than a grey one.
>>
>>53917714
of course it's ok, most people dont even paint their shit. dont expect compliments though
>>
>>53917760
Thanks. See following for why I ask.
>>53917751
I have about 20 miss caste sisters from gw that sat unused for years because of it. Their mold lines are cleaned but not entirely removed. I can't fix it easily
>>
>>53917502
I like the basing a lot, its simple but has good depth and compliments the tone of the model. the model itself is approaching clean, its generally neatly done with the exception of some of those grey highlights, which for sure are not easy. it's a bit bland and needs more visual interest - the joints could stand filling too
>>
>>53913481
Has anyone tried using this for mini painting? A black 2.0/vanta black sword with bright teal runes on the blade would look cool
>>
>>53917502
Don't let washes pool on flat surfaces like that banner. You get ugly coffee stains
>>
>>53916388
for you
>>
New(ish) to the hobby. Been playing a while but finally decided to actually paint my fucking army.

I have an Iawata Neo airbrush that I bought to quickly prime and basecoat models. My army has a desert theme so I figured I'd get two birds stoned at once and use the Vallejo PU Surface Primer Desert Tan as both the primer and basecoat.

It came out looking fine but the primer seems really, really weak compared to the old rattlecan method. Am I missing something or do Vallejo PU Surface Primers just suck?
>>
I hate painting the bases of my models.

Currently I glue my model to the base and then base it in a pot of coarse sand.

Does anyone just spray the base and then glue the painted model onto it at the end?
>>
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Got an old thunderbolt that I'm gonna restore and put into my solar aux. It's missing the tail rudder, the pilot and cockpit, and ailerons but that doesn't mean I can't plasticard some new ones and cover the canopy. The missing engine pipes and one of the engine panels. It it worth making casts of the panel and handful of pipes I've still got?
>>
>>53918563
You need to leave Vallejo primer a day or more to cure and harden. The lightness is a feature not a bug.
>>
>>53918761
This; also, no thinners, they just make it weaker.
>>
>>53914847
generally when you want criticism on anything you should be specific about what you want criticism for. Works IRL too. Honestly post them on reddit. There are some pretty basic models on /r40k but overall the model quality is better than here as alot of commission painters post their shit there.
>>
>>53918747
Yeah, tubes are a pain in the ass to get right. Casting is simple.
>>
>>53918761
>>53918814

Noted. I just ask because I have a bunch of tanks done in the method I explained (Vallejo Desert Tan Primer as both primer and basecoat) and after a week they still feel a little tacky, like I could scrape the primer off with my fingernail.

I'm wondering if it's just a different feel because it's not the rattlecan primer I'm used to and if I should go buy some matte varnish to fully protect it.
>>
>>53918928

40k subreddit is also extremely supportive of people who just paint to have something better than grey plastic armies, which I think is perfectly fine.

People shouldn't expect everyone to put hours and hours into a single space marine or guardsmen. We all play the game for different reasons and I'm not going to be angry if someone plays me with 3 base colors and a wash, even if I spent 10 times longer on my army.

I put more effort into my models because I want to. Not everyone does. I get that.
>>
>>53919042
Well, rattlecan primers are generally lacquer based, so it's really sort of apples and oranges; even when the stuffs cured, it's not as tough. But you can run it through an airbrush without wearing hasmat gear, so that's a plus. If you're feeling paranoid, give your stuff a gloss coat before you hit it with the matte.
>>
odd question but Grey Knight heads are the same scale as primaris ones? I'm thinking about starting an Exorcists army and I want to maybe pop a few of them in there just for some variation.
>>
>>53919121
All space marine heads are the same scale as Primaris ones. The only thing that doesn't work is beakies because of the collar
>>
>>53916593
Unrelated, has one of these/similar ever been converted to anything Orky? I been reading the wiki on Orks today and am considering playing them, and apparently they have a lot of stolen/repurposed tech.
>>
>>53919168
google "ork sentinel conversion"
>>
>>53919042
dont listen to >>53918814

I thin my vallejo grey primer, if its too thick and doesnt flow good thin it


THIN IT IF YOU NEED TO, THERE ISNT A UNIVERSAL TRICK TO AIRBRUSHS
>>
>>53919245

Thinning does weaken the primer. It's just that no primer on the market is even sprayable unthinned. The needle gauge they recommend can be as large as .5 mm and 25-35 psi, and that shit ain't going to happen, so we usually just thin or sputter and clog our way through the prime job.

If you're worried about durability you can always just prime twice.
>>
>>53919168
>and am considering playing them, and apparently they have a lot of stolen/repurposed tech.
The death skulls, one of the big clans, are specialized looters even.

Used to be that orks could use special weapons and tanks from other armylists for a price.

GW watered that a bit down in the rules since they released kits for the ork vehicles, but you can still very much use whatever you fancy.

Check out the whaaagh forum and have a look around in the 'oilaz blueprints' section.
Loads of great inspiration there.
>>
>>53918942
>>53918747
Mock up of tail. I'm going to score a rudder on there, what's a good way to do it?
>>
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>>53919554
Forgot pic
>>
dice+2d6
>>
>>53919580
Should I just scratch build missing parts like perhaps do the canopy all up-armored like pic related?
>>
>>53919580
needle files, just use the edge
>>
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>>53901237
I'm making a diorama for some minis as a display piece. What's the best way to darken the pit area in the front to resemble the bottom of a cavernous lake? I planned to fill it with resin to make water but I've never done resin work before, let alone made a body of water
>>
>>53920307
Paint it black?
>>
>>53920368
I have a feeling it would just end up too dark and drown out the detail of the lakebed. Maybe multiple coats of blue shade like Drakenhof nightshade?
>>
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Thoughts on how to achieve this style of bone?
>>
>>53920447
You might find this video useful (or not)
https://youtu.be/0G0VrDAlz34

I'd go black in the deeper parts and work your way up to dark blue as it gets closer to the edge. Maybe throw some green besides the rocks for algae.
>>
>>53920307
you could build the resin up in layers and tint the lower layers a bit darker.
If you do that gradually, you could fool the eye I think.
>>
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>>53919237
>>53919380
I love it.
>>
>>53920606
>>53920608
I might try for that gradual black to green. What about the skulls in the lakebed? Should I color those normal colors then nuln oil the fuck out of it or what?
>>
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>>53912817
>>
>>53920728
>>53920728
>>53920728
New thread
>>
>>53920690
>Should I color those normal colors then nuln oil the fuck out of it or what?
It depends what you're aiming for. I thought The idea was for a really deep lake. It wouldn't make sense for skulls to be floating only a meter down if that were the case.

I love the project by the way! Have you considered buying some weathering pigments or making your own out of pastels? They really go a long way in visually selling rocks and dirt.
>>
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messing around with one of those demo chadmarines
>>
>>53921094
>>53920736
>>
>>53920718
Fucking beautiful, excellent colour scheme, I love it
Thread posts: 346
Thread images: 81


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