WIP: Work in Progress Thread

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Heyyyyyyy.

So, months ago, I ran a dubs contest to see how I would paint my eldar guy here and the winning post dictated electric blue, hot pink and neon green.

It was fun to paint! Wish I hadn't attached the wings before painting it, though; made getting into some nooks and crannies more difficult than it should have been. Also, camera work isn't the best. Might just have to invest in a new camera if I can't find a lighting scheme that works a little better.

OH WELL! Here he is.

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So I've decided I'd like to try and make some money on the side by doing commission work. Making and painting minis for lazy shits or those who don't have the time.

Anyone here have experience or advice to give someone in my situation?

>>53793487
I think you need more Purity Seals.

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Thanks OP. You fucked up.
Actual Previous Thread:
>>53771684

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>>53793452
oh fuck, you actually did it?

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>>53793517
Not even my dude. Some Anon's that posts here infrequently. Pic related is the other similar image I've kept. There are none purer.

Can anyone give me tips on painting Black Templars

>>53793653
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRR7W5-F15c

I'm not sure what else you'd need to know.

>>53793452
B A S E D
S
E
D

Looks great anon.

>>53793487
>So I've decided I'd like to try and make some money on the side by doing commission work.
It's generally not worth the money for the amount of time and effort you put into the job.

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First model I'm painting from the Guildball two player starter

OI GITZ
IVE BEEN IN DA SQUIG BREWZ TOO MUCH TONIGHT.
SHOULD I ACTUALLY WORK ON THAT BATPLANE DAKKAJET, WARBIKERS, BUGGIE BOYS, OR PAINT MY MASSIVE UNPAINTED TIDES?

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For the 10 billionth time I swear this should be put in the OP, what are some cheap tools I can use to start with, or some search terms I can use to find these? I'm getting mostly those silicone-tipped ones or the ones that are loops meant for clay sculpting. I swear there was a set of like 15 of them for $10 but I can't find it, though I might be misremembering.

>>53793452
Radical/10

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>>53794105
These?
http://www.flamesofwar.com/gf9online_store.aspx?CategoryID=13167

Not sure where you can get 15 of them for $10, but if you've checked places like Miniature Market and Hobby Lobby and not found any then I don't know what to tell you.

>>53794090
>>excessive fungus-beer
Da 'ordes, boss.

Would you pay more to have models come pre-assembled or even pre-primed?

>>53794142
Something like that, yeah. I'll keep poking around, but are those 4(8) tools really enough? I'd expect some finer points and some more flat ones for scraping, for some reason.

>>53794147
ZOG OFF.
NOW TELL ME WAT TO DO, YA GROT.

>>53794206
Hell no. I tend to convert and kitbash stuff so that would make it more difficult. Not to mention it would make customizing weapons load-outs more difficult. As for priming, it would have to be pre-assembled to be primed so that's out too and I've had iffy experiences with some models that are supposed to come pre-primed, freaking d&d minis.

>>53794105
check amazon for wax sculpting sets

>>53794209
I find that
>a blade, possibly with hooked point that you can use the flat side of as well
>a round leaf shape convex on one side, flat on the other
>hook
>straight needle
>ball tipped tool in various sizes
are most useful. At least these are the ones I use mostly.

You can get by with a knife and a needle in a pinch though.

Clay shapers are extremely useful for smoothing out GS though.

Note that you won't be able to do much scraping with GS since it's consistence is like chewed up bubblegum. For stuff like milliput you could scrape though.

I think I am finally to the point where I'm going to break down and get an Airbrush because I'm tired of looking at all the shit I cant do because I don't have one.

Where the fuck do I start, and what is the expected kick to the wallet for the initial investment? All I basically know is that I'm going to be shitty at first, and I need to buy good Airbrush paint from somewhere like Vallejo.

>>53793452
That looks way better than that color scheme would ever imply. Good job.

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Some wip pics of my deathcompany for 8th edition. What do you guys think so far?

1/4

Please don't rotate this pic phone

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>>53794308
2/4

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>>53794308
>3.2 MiB
>4032x3024
>sideways

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>>53794308
3/4

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What kind of genius decided to make a set of wide cutters that don't have any kind of grip whatsoever?

>>53794326
I have no idea why my phone rotates photos on 4chan. It doesn't do it on Facebook or instagram.

As far as the file size and resolution that's just what my phone tppk, idk how to fuck with it

>>53794332
>buying Cheap Chinese tools that GW slaps their logo onto then sells at a 200x markup

>>53794308
>>53794317
primed/10

>>53794345

It's because it's uncropped and your phone is using its own meta data to correct the image

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>>53794290
Thanks for the term, that led me back to the kit I was thinking of.

>>53794332

Those cutters are actually pretty nice. I like using them when I'm working at my lgs

>>53794418
What is meta data?

Pretend I don't know shit about cameras because I don't

>>53794428
I like the style and size of the blades, but I would have much rather them had some kind of grip on the handles. They're naturally rather spread out and it's annoying having to readjust every few snips.

Is there a trick to painting large surfaces for vehicles or walkers?

I don't have an airbrush or proper thinners so it'll all be done with brushes/water. Is it just the same techniques done on smaller units, only scaled up, or it there a faster way to do it?

>>53794228
Zog, boss. Ize was jus finkin you shud paint somma da ladz.

>>53793968
Looking good, anon. Some moldlines on the fingers, though.
Other than that, solid paintjob so far

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New to 40k here, heard that I should watch Duncan before painting anything so I know what to do. Finished watching these videos, what next? Just start painting? I'd rather assemble everything before starting to paint, so I have some time to listen to him in the background, and it seems that a lot of the videos are geared towards specific models.

Any other suggestions would be useful.

>>53794446

Data stored in the photo such as the orientation when it was taken, which is why then size shrinks so drastically when you crop it

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>>53794446
Metadata is invisible (on the image) information that gets encoded into the image and saves information about the camera, settings, location, author, etc. for future reference. It's also called "exif data" and can be viewed in image editors or browsers (on certain sites designed for it). Your phone/camera by default encode metadata into the image which can change the colours on it or give it a different orientation depending on the settings.

>>53794924
Reposting from the previous thread:

Depends what you want. If you let us know what army you're painting or style you're going for, that will help.

r/minipainting always has a decent amount of people online so if you ever need advice, there's another advice center.
>inb4 reddit hate

Various youtube channels. My personal go-to's are HobbyHotTips (for basing), Miniwargaming (with their personal spin off channels), EonsofBattle, Tabletop Minions, Painting Buddha and of course, Warhammer TV's Duncan.

>>53794992
Necrons and Skitarii / AdMech. Apparently I've picked both the easiest and hardest to paint armies, but I'll deal with it I guess. I didn't know there were different styles I could paint in, I assumed it was all geared towards being realistic (well, as realistic as 40k can get). I haven't painted anything yet so I'm pretty open to whatever right now. I missed the last thread so didn't see any posts that might have been related, sorry.

>>53795072
No worries, everyone has to start somewhere. I'm doing a Necron army myself and I can tell you that you chose a great army for starting painting with. You can get alot out of the model with some grey/silver paint and Nuln oil shade.

WarhammerTV has great Necron Warrior/Overlord tutorials, plus EonsofBattle has good options for Necron specific basing.

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I've never used Green Stuff before and it seems really fun. I picked up Black Reach literally 10 years ago and never actually played but now I'm preparing for 8th by converting the Terminators to Death Guard and also picked up this Terminator Lord.

It's probably to late for this guy but any advice or tips for Nurgle Green stuff? Also I used quite a bit of it, is the larger quantities off Amazon acceptable quality?

>>53793452
Ready to defend Craftworld Ske'ttals

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Made a stug styled Leman Russ for my Dkok from a guide that was posted a few threads ago, rate?

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>>53795610
Sorry for phone posting, it's the best I got right now

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>>53795333

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Nothing like a closeup to show you all the shit you've missed and all the details you still need to paint.

>>53794616
3-5 thin coats or you'll either see brush strokes or clumps. Also, depending on the colour, it's goddamn important to let it dry between layers, because if you go back too soon you might rip the not yet dry layer and then you're fucked.

>>53795618
I think it might look better with some skirts.

What is that barrel, a reinforced drinking straw? Because clever.

>>53795828
Looks good dude

>>53795895
Cap from a large brush, didn't have anything else

Side skirts like the old ww2 panzer? Didn't know they put those on the stug too, I guess it makes sense. I want to add more shit in-between the wheels.

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>>53793554
>>53793487

NONE PURER

>>53795828
When you say wait for it to dry, do you mean dry to touch or left as long as possible?

I've heard something about leaving paint for 3-4 times longer than it takes to feel dry because of some chemical bonding shenanigans.

>>53795926
A few minutes at least.

Oh, and get a large basecoating brush.

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>>53795296
LESS IS MORE
Fucking hell.
Looks like he just rolled around in chewing gum.

No pustules or mark of Nurgle detail sculpted in. Just a mess.
Peel it off once it is cured and start again. Go watch some tutorials for Nurgle greenstuff on youtube.

>>53795296
>is the larger quantities off Amazon acceptable quality
Kneadite is literally greenstuff. The quality is exactly the same GW just marks it up an insane amount.

>>53793780
unless you're some 3rd worlder from a god foresaken shithole, its not worth your time...

painting well = painting slow.
Slow = less dosh
fast = shit paint job
shit paint job = no commission

>>53794296

Bump here?

To paint Necron spines, or not paint Necron spines?

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>try to order Incubi darkness rattlecan from LGS
>cant
>mfw

Is it part of some secret club?

>>53796379
tfw still have to finish weapons,glowy tubes, colored armor panels, and highlights on an immortal and deathmark before I can finish my killteam

>>53795828
>shit you've missed
Like what? can't see anything wrong with it.

>>53796432
All GW rattlecans got slapped with safety restrictions.

>>53796482
That doesn't make any sense because they have the white and black sprays?

>>53796497
might be back stock, all I know is GW now has
the following limitation:

Product Warning

To comply with laws around the world, we've chosen to restrict how we sell this product. You must be 18 to buy it, you must buy at least one non-restricted item with it, and you can buy a maximum of 2 of it in any order.

That might affect your LGS's policy/acess.

>>53796531
Are they afraid of huffers? There's far cheaper spray paint if you just want to get high.

>>53796551
It's a blanket restriction on all.
There's also limits on where it's can be shipped and how.

No countries with overseas troops for example.
Because apparently overpriced spay cans are terrorists newest weapon.

>>53796551
Probably. But they'll still want to keep the guys buying their shit from getting even more retarded.

>>53796531
>>53796583
>>53796551
>>53796586
More likely that it is classed as dangerous goods now in regards to transport. Once you are over a certain amount it can be considered a risk.

Probably environmental bullshit.

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Just thought I'd pop in to lay this masterpiece on you guys.

>>53795828
>Nothing like a closeup to show you all the shit you've missed and all the details you still need to paint.

Too right on my models. Fine from afar, sloppy and with unpainted spots up close.
Worst part is i cant reach certain areas without surgical precision, and that feels like too much effort when theres a bunch of other shit to finish.

>>53796668
Didn't the bork dog die just recently?

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>>53796755
Yep.

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>>53793653

I highlight with dark reaper, thunderhawk blue and fenrisian grey, makes the minis nicer to look at compared to eshin grey/dawnstone/administratum grey.

Also recess shade with watered down rhinox hide.

I'm not great at painting but heres my emperor's champion wip

>>53796781
That base is sexy.

>>53796668

Great now take it away

>>53796787

Thanks! First base ive ever made from scratch, it's just bits, cut up sprue, greenstuff, astrogranite and some washes

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>>53793416

What do you think?

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>>53797072
And his backside, which was also born in the darkness,not merely adopting it.

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I didnt realise there was a new thread, so Repostan

>>53781907
>>53782024
>>53786163
>>53793979
I did some work on him last night, added some troll slayer orange (i think) to the elevated parts of the cloak, I darkened the staff, cleaned up the washes, and darkened some of the metal behind his head with washes, so I could add starker silver highlights (not able to see in picture) I also cleaned up the "plasma glow"

Yes i know there is a moldline right there, its too late for me to fix it, but its very hard to see unless you are looking from under the model, and i just literally fixed that orange spoltch on the staff

>>53797108
Those "liquid canisters" could use a glossy wash to fake the "glass" surrounding them.

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Shitty photo, but this is the start of my Emperor's Children warband. Fairly happy with how it came out, though I think I need to be a little less heavy on the washes and spend some more time highlighting, it's a bit darker than I wanted

>>53797126
yeah I have to go buy some ard coat, but im worried they need touch ups/ or a color change so Im not sure about it yet

>>53797140
Yeah, other point is maybe making the piping more distinct as well. Everything being about the same colour makes the metallics look like a blob.

Not trying to bring you down or anything, just advising. Pretty decent mini overall.

>>53797134
It looks a little dry for some reason, as if it was a special contingent for a desert world. Might be the camera messing up the lighting though.

It's a great base, I like how you applied the purple in a clean and crisp manner.

I'd say touch up the green and gold with a bit lighter colors, maybe add a little blue to the purple via a wash? Gun looks spiffy.

>>53797145
the smooth pipes and some joins are copper, should I go for a non metallic color?

>>53797134
Also, and most importantly, base! It's so easy to make a nice base using sand, gravel or (what I prefer) dried coffee grounds, and it just adds so much to the model.

>>53797151
This.
The main colouring looks like it dried out.
Did you mat varnish it?

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>>53797160
Maybe a bit more brownish coppery (lampshade coppery if you get what i mean see pic), and turn the tubing somewhat darker. But that's how i'd paint admech, if this is your style, that's simply how it is.

>>53797151
Cheers! The lighting is pretty terrible, I also washed basically all the armour plates, which dulled it down. I think for the next attempt I'll be just putting the wash around the edges to keep the purple brighter, and maybe going a super light drybrush of hot pink to really bring the colours out.

The purple was a bit of a time-consuming process, from a black undercoat it's two thin coats of Reaper's Witchcraft Purple high density, then another two nice thin coats of a mix of Imperial Purple and the Breast Cancer Pink in a 75:25 mix. Used a red wash, which I think really warms up the gold and gives nice shadows on the plates.

I'll be playing around with some of his squadmates over the next few days, so I should have something more to show off this weekend.

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>>53795296
Look at pictures of gross stuff, rashes, tumours etc, to use as a reference. Random swirly and choppy textures don't really look very Nurgle and actually smooth (ish) skin with imperfections looks far more like diseased flesh.

Try and have a plan of what you want to achieve before you start. You may not be able to follow it perfectly but it will help.

Take your time with it. It is much better to build up the greenstuff in layers, letting it cure in between. This will give you a solid base to work on and much more control.

Kitbash the fuck out of it. There are a handful of Nurgle kits that are absolutely packed with awesome Nurgle bits of flesh and weapons and so on (blight kings, Maggoth lord, plague drones for example) and with a bit of greenstuff work these can be blended easily into other non-nurgle models or used to build something from scratch.

>>53797165
I plan to base them with a simple urban rubble setup, just had not bothered with this one yet as it's a proof of concept mini.

Just got my shapeways order in.

Very happy with it no issues at all. Fits perfectly into the shoulder pad.

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>>53797277

Well the photo didn't attach but here it is blu-tac'd on.

>>53795925

all those purity seals and you still couldnt paint them properly.

>>53793452
I was the guy who suggested that scheme, looks great.

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How much effort do you put into horde/grunt units?

I've been using this Warrior as a testing ground for while I wait for the rest to arrive and I'm pretty happy with it. Obvious things to fix are that top orange section on the gun and the inside/rear of the coils underneath the gun.

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>>53794308
>>53794317
>>53794330

Well, so far you seemed to have primed your models and airbrushed some random red with overspill.
I don't know what you expect us to say really.
Oh, and what this guy said >>53794326

>>53797346

>How much effort do you put into horde/grunt units?

An autistic amount honestly. I'm very picky with the paint, painting styles and details. And I'm not even that good of a painter.

>>53797346

its a hobby before a game. spend as much time as you like on it.

>>53797346

I'm a pretty bad perfectionist, I won't even touch a model unless I have every single paint i'll need available to me there and then

Guys if i soak my brushes in turps overnight will it damage them?

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>>53797346

Sooner or later one has to realize that its a miniature´s market, a full time hobby. Excuses about "Well, Im first and foremost a gamer" just don't cut it in this hobby, because frankly, we all know there are better games out there than this.

Once this is accepted, you can start appreciating the price we pay for the models we get, and I for one wont "rush" models to the table, that I know I spent expensive money on. Because if I did, I feel I have no right to complain about nether price range or quality. So therefore, I always try and give it my best, it might not be pro-standard, but at least I know Im trying hard to get better.

>>53797346

My guard platoon is at 100, I basically did base coats and wash + basing. If you look at them 1 at a time they're shit. having 50+ together on the table you don't see it desu, especially when most armies you fight are grey

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Anyone else buy "salvage" jobs and give them some love?

>>53797504
How bad were the before models?

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I think I fucked up the OSL but regardless here's a few pics of my latest project

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>>53797525

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>>53797530

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>>53797536

>>53797536
>>53797530
>>53797525

Very nice mate, it's a striking effect even if it's not necessarily 100% realistic.

What's up with that tiny dab of blue on the top of the Autocannon highlights?

>>53797470
Very nice Neophyte.

>>>53797525

Yea you did go a bit hard on that OSL. Its not the biggest of concern though, its still a great looking model, and some people are impressed by this stark contrast. Id prefer a much milder tone, gentle glow so to speak, it makes it easier to bring focus to the actual light source.

>>53797525
>>53797530
>>53797536

really impressive technical painting skills, i love it,the colour gradients, the weathering and chipping in particular ! but yeah probably a bit too heavy on the OSL my dude. In the case of lighting effects less is generally more

>>53797536

This is what I hate about resin though, look at the cast quality on the gun, it's got a finely coarse surface so it stands out a mile compared to smooth plastics.

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Reposting my rough rider

>>53797525
The recesses of the light source should be it's brightest point. Currently they are painted black. Painted them stark white and you'll salvage the OSL. The rest looks good.

>>53797560
>What's up with that tiny dab of blue on the top of the Autocannon highlights?
Yeah no idea how that got there. Will have to touch it up

>>53797758
Yeah I'm not a fan of resin either.

>>53797960
Thanks for the tip, I'll try it out

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>>53797072
>>53797103
I think it's a lot of picture for not much miniature.
Took less than a minute on a phone to crop it.

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Just finished my terminator.
Comments

>>53798151
My man, will do next time, sorry.

Any critique for me model wise?

>>53798224
Nice yellow, and i love the kneecap, freehanding like that is always cool. but drill them barrels

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>>53798224
And with the squad

>>53798249
Ok, drilling, using the GW thingy (what size is this)?
Additional question, for the heavy bolter, do you do 2 holes, or just one big a bit cylindrical?

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Some anvil industries mixed with Perry miniatures.

The scale is off with most of the Perry range but the archers are well padded so they scale up well.

>>53798326
>heavy bolter
You mean storm bolter? Heavy bolters have one, Storm Bolters have two.

Also you can honestly just paint on black dots. Most people wont care if you don't actually drill the barrels, so long as they don't look like solid metal.

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>>53798326
>Ok, drilling, using the GW thingy (what size is this)?

I was thinking that mine is smaller than the smallest bit (1/32") normally found in those "variety pack" drill-bit assortments you'd get at Lowe's or Home Depot - but then again, if you bought a nice pin vise intended to drill fine-detail scale minaitures for pinning, it should at least come with some really small drill bits.

>Additional question, for the heavy bolter, do you do 2 holes, or just one big a bit cylindrical?

Drill into the big end, and also drill the muzzle vents sideways.

>>53798349
The Termi's one, so Storm bolter according to lexicanum. So two holes, ok thanks.
>>53798375
Ok, ty

>>53797504
Strip the goddamn paint nigger.
You have no excuse, just get some medical grade dettol and go at them.

>>53797544
I like how that light bends around those corners

>>53798464

They're the salvage job mate. All shiny and lead again now.

>>53798573
Ah, i though you just reprimed the already overpainted minis and made a joke paint job or something.

>>53798573
What version are those termies under there by the way?

File: RTB09 Terminators.jpg (58KB, 565x776px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798595

Rogue Trader RTB09 box ones. Generally more rounded than the second edition ones that inspired the old plastic termies.

File: terminators_close_up01.jpg (1MB, 2717x2147px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798595
>What version are those termies under there by the way?

Those are metal First Edition terminators, similar to the ladz in pic related.. The lad on the far left has the left arm from the (slightly) later close combat terminator that is meant to carry a storm shield; you can tell by the badge on the shoulder pauldron.

File: c2016smterminators-01.jpg (59KB, 586x810px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798660

It's a Force Axe arm actually I think, but yeah it has the nub for a storm shield.

Unfortunately it seems back in the day that Terminators were more varied in equipment, because I have about 30 old ones now and not even half are Storm Bolter and Power Fist, few Chainfists though so I guess I'll pay the 5 points or whatever.

File: Ultramarine-old-terminators.jpg (139KB, 790x248px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798732

Unfortunately the 2nd edition Termies arms, metal or plastic, don't really suit the older ones.

I want to start painting my Space Hulk minis but I can't decide on a color scheme for me Jeanstealers.
Anyone has a coloring template for them? My google-fu didn't bring up any good results.

File: oop_terminator_librarian_large.jpg (45KB, 1280x813px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798732
>It's a Force Axe arm actually I think, but yeah it has the nub for a storm shield.

Duh. You're right. The paint job was so bad, all I could see was the shoulder and the beginning of the arm. The hideous blade of the force axe was camoflauged against the outlandishly garish torso.

File: terminators_rt_large.jpg (75KB, 1280x506px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798732
>Unfortunately it seems back in the day that Terminators were more varied in equipment, because I have about 30 old ones now and not even half are Storm Bolter and Power Fist, few Chainfists though so I guess I'll pay the 5 points or whatever.

The force axe was for the librarian, the power fist w/ grenade launcher for the captain, and the power sword was for the sergeant. Everybody else got power fists or chainfists. I seem to have an inordinate number of chainfists, just like you.

Later they made lightning claws, thunder-hammer-and-storm-shield, and a targeter arm for the cyclone. Some time between Third and Sixth Edition, GW decided Cyclones didn't need targeter arms, and they just got power fists like everybody else.

File: dakkadakka_tyranids.png (392KB, 1396x595px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53798796
Something like that ?
https://www.dakkadakka.com/core/painter.jsp?i=3

(index for other armies https://www.dakkadakka.com/core/painter.jsp)

>>53798342
Cool combination. More economical than buying full bodies from Anvil, I expect?

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>Wracking my brain, trying to figure out how to base this Leviathan-Knight proxy
>Ask friend
>"You could do pic related, but with skulls"

I think I might seriously try this, just a big, 7" pile of skulls with a Leviathan peeking out. Now I just need a shitload of skulls.

File: 100_2598.jpg (237KB, 986x600px) Image search: [Google]

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sloppier than I'd like

I'll have to go back to him when the temperature drops below a million degrees

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>>53799498
Thank you, but I found that one.
I meant something like pic.

>that noob level gravis armor paint by Duncan
The fuck is happening?!

>>53799789

I want those shields and sword bits.

>>53800275
It could just be for beginners
Maybe GW is thinking new people will come in for the new edition

>>53793553
Yup
>>53793736
>>53794116
>>53794298
>>53795333
>>53797305
Thanks!

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So since Scions and Tauroxes are suddenly good I'm trying to find something to 40k up that'll look decent

I'm interested in a maybe using a VBCI but I'm having trouble finding a decent looking kit. Any recommendations for someone that makes modern 1/48th kits?

File: salvaged.png (1MB, 577x1535px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53797504
Yes, ones I've bought tend to be very cheap per model. I strip them down, disassemble them (as far as they can be), clean them up, reassemble and repaint.

>>53800768
Man what do you use to strip PP's plastic
I'm trying to strip Ragnor in simplegreen for like 4 days now and some of the primer still won't come off

>>53799540
yeah their bodies and legs are way too expensive. someone needs to tell them how to make plastic moulds.

I can pick up a box of 40 perry miniatures for the price of 5 anvil dudes.

not to say anvil stuff isnt top-tier, it is. its just theyre a small company casting in resin and obviously it costs a lot to produce what they are making. Their best bet is to re-release plastic box sets at a more affordable price but I guess thats easier said than done. I ended up buying about 50 plastic medieval normans from conquest games along with the 24 archers from perry that i might also top up. Then I ordered 60 recast solar auxilia which I plan to convert up into more medieval guardsmen as well as the solar auxilia command squad.

this is all to support my primaris howling griffons who are going to be converted to ride demi-gryphs from the stormcast range as well as a bunch of primaris footsloggers. and a mechanicus element in the mix too. because why the fuck not at this point lol.

>>53800275

The second video is way more detailed.

>>53800275

>One is Tabletop standard
>The other is 'Eavy Metal-like

It's a good way to do it

How well would skipping a basecoat work for me if I found a primer that is the color I want as a basecoat?

I've got a bottle of desert vallejo spray primer and I was thinking of just priming with that and not using a basecoat since the primer is already the base color I want.

>>53797816
very hunnsome lad

>>53801732
As long as it's a primer, has decent coverage but doesn't obscure detail, you should be fine.

>>53800844
this stuff called Purple Power. If you're in the US, it's available at Wal-Marts. I let it soak in it for about 24 hours, scrub it with a toothbrush, then I get the remainder with an ultrasonic cleaner, again filled with Purple Power.

>>53801732
It's ok, though i'd advise doing a thin coat of base colour just to keep the primers texture from looking different to the painted areas.

File: Boss Klaw 1.jpg (1MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

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So I wanted to make my warboss a little bit more fancy than just the basic Assault on Black Reach warboss, so I figured to give him a new klaw.
I wanted to use one of the deff dread klaws, and I need your advice.
Which one of these looks better, this one?

File: Boss Klaw 2.jpg (1MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53802161
Or this one?
(Please ignore the paint scheme, he was in the middle of being stripped when I had to remove him due to technical difficulties)

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>>53793452
I hate a ruined mini but i respect a man who upholds his word.
So well done.

>>53802161
Prefer the first one.

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>>53793487
Unless you do it locally among people you know, its a bit hard for the effort. I did it on the side during College and found it a lot better whenever I accepted stuff from the local LGS and people I played against. A lot of them understood the time it took to paint so they were much better on time constraints.

A big part too depends on your pricing. I did it with a different job on the side so really it was an excuse to paint more minis without spending loads of money. Usually I did model/box price for a quick 3 color standard and incrementally more for higher quality.

If you set out to make money without a professional site, Photoshop, and a way to shill that makes people feel GOOD about commissioning from you for bragging rights then don't expect to make much at all.

If you try it through eBay know that you should NEVER list the model as "PRO PAINTED" or have caps lock on, because pic related is the standard that's associated with that kind of title.

>tfw too busy painting other peoples' minis to paint your own army
>tfw new guy to the store comments on your opponents army you painted and compares it to your partially done force
>tfw he's corrected by everyone in the store, who is playing with at least one thing you painted.

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>>53795296
Just know that those termies will have to be only <Nurgle> aligned as of now, as for some fucking reason terminators cannot have the legion keyword <Death Guard> at the current moment, and we wont know if they will until the DG codex drops.

Despite the fact that they can take 4 HQs in terminator armor

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WiP Deathwatch. From top left : Exorcist, Raven Guard, Howling Griffon, Hawk Lord.

I tried to go full on Blanchitsu on the Raven guard, while the other 3 are my normal style.

>>53802582
Raven Guard looks like the warped face from the X-Files intro.

File: ThisIsFine.jpg (44KB, 470x317px) Image search: [Google]

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>haha duncan made a blood raven guide and now i have a month to do fuck all
>time to finally paint my 10+ year old company worth pile marines
>first layers and wash go well
>ushabti bone also no prob if a bit thicc
>try to do the subtle highlight using the one base bush I got out of the starter set because used to paint somewhere else where I can't go currently
>shaky hands
>so farsighted I have to give up several times and readjust my eyes before the brush even touches the model
>huge mess of evil sunz scarlet all over the model
>rest of the company to go

Anyone have any experience using real pieces of wood for terrain? I want to make a fallen tree and I'm probably just going to use an actual branch. I'm just not sure about how to treat/seal the wood to stop it from decaying later on

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How's this look?

>>53802918
>>53800592

>>53799789

I fucking hate painting in the summer, that's even assuming I get past the "fuck it, too warm" stage.

>>53802801
Dry it out then seal with with matte varnish.

>>53802931
Holy shit I got my 4chan threads mixed up again. Sorry guys!

>>53802937
there's always the option of deliberately fucking your sleeping patterns and becoming a vampire during the summer

>>53802918
wrong thread, buddy.

>>53793416
So, question: I plan on doing some conversions for my Admech army, but do any of you know the size of the Dark Eldar Scoirge torsos? I want to use them to make some Infiltrators. Also, any ideas on models I could use to convert into more admech stuff?

>>53797525
That's beautiful!

Can we see a regular marine please? I'm starting a custom chapter and I'm worried someone may have already used the color scheme.

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not really sure what I want to do with him, or what kind of pauldrons he will have.

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>>53803178
Maybe this? but with cooler pauldrons?

>>53803178

Looks like he just slaughtered through a bunch of marines and decide to organize their limbs.

>>53803200
That's weaponized autism.

>>53803232

HEH

>>53803199

Try popping on Alpha Legion pauldrons.

How do I do a good gold/brass?
Currently have done Retributor armor with Agrax, but I want to make it pop a bit more. Doing the detailing on a Crimson Slaughter CSM for reference.

>>53803178
>>53803199
I don't recognize the legs or backpack but the pose is great.

What chapter are you planning for him?

>>53803319
The legs are from Anvil Industry and the backpack is from Kromlech. No real chapter yet, was thinking of starting my own but have not thought of a color scheme yet. I previously did a few "N7" guys but I dont think i'll continue that.

>>53802161
>>53802180
1st looks like it would make him fall over; 2nd mite b cool as long as you trimmed it down a little so it's just the sawblade bit on his forearm.

>didn't primer bones, paint wipes right off
Welp.

>>53802284
>If you try it through eBay know that you should NEVER list the model as "PRO PAINTED" or have caps lock on, because pic related is the standard that's associated with that kind of title.

One of my joys in life is taking a stroll through Ebay to see what passes for PROPAINTED these days.

>protip: we're all pro's here, compared to Ebay

>>53803816
You have to wash, prime, and seal your models, anon.

Even if the paint hadn't wiped off and dried it still would have chipped later on.

>>53803911
how do you seal?

>>53803829
>One of my joys in life is taking a stroll through Ebay to see what passes for PROPAINTED these days.

My father and I used to do that. Propainted has been a meme for at least twelve years.

File: MOLDIV.jpg (1MB, 2048x1720px) Image search: [Google]

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Done with the sculpt. I've cleaned off the mould lines left on the bolters and will give it another going over to get rid of the plastic shavings when it's cured. The bolters are not glued btw.

>>53803961
oh my

>>53803950
You spray the painted mini with matte varnish.

It's important to use something with "matte" in the name otherwise your mini may look glossy.

>>53804015
also krylon matte varnish is not matte and it is a CAN OF LIES

>>53804015
so you only do that with spray paint?

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>>53803178
If he's some kind of leader, this could perhaps be an idea. It's from the Vanguard vets box.

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>>53803729
>>53802180
>>53802161
Wit proper trimming either can work.

>>53803961
How did you do such smooth pitting on the hull?

>>53803961

I'll never make a conversion this good.

>>53804106
I was thinking of Capt or Sgt, but was not sure if either was allowed to be equipped with a plasma AND power sword in 8th edition as I have not played in a long ass time

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>>53803911
>>53803816

Careful now lads, let's not be giving out daft advice. Bones is a funny material.

http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/48669-bones-the-first-coat-is-the-difference/

Never had paint wipe off Reaper Bones though, did you give them a decent scrub with washing up liquid beforehand?

I just give mine a solid undercoat of Abaddon Black, with minimal water as suggested. I have some Vallejo grey brush primer too, that seems to work alright, it's quite thin out of the bottle.

>>53803961
Drill the holes on the side of the bolter barrel all the way through. It'll make for a really nice effect.

>>53804188
Visualizing how two separate bits might work well together is 90% of a good conversion.
Rest is practice.

File: IMG_1013.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

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Finished this guy yesterday, I'd like a bit of advice on how to paint faces good, but I'm pretty happy about my very first freehand.

>>53804187
Use a dremel. Or a cheap 20 quid knock-off in my case, does the trick but takes a lot of cleaning up afterwards.

>>53804188
As the other guy says, it's mostly planning and Nurgle is a forgiving master.

>>53804270
Okay I will.

>>53798633
I do love that terminators remain so similar today.

I don't even mind the primaris marines, but I really hope that captain isn't the new equivalent of terminators. At least make them look more different than just regular primaris marines.

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>>53804424
Pretty good but you should touch up those eyes.

>>53802582
what colors did you use on the bottom right guy's face scar? Looks very nice.

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>>53804430
>Use a Dremel
Ahh yeah, I know, it's the #1 tool on my wishlist.
With all the conversion I do i really should get one

>>53804424

>>53804424
gr8 b8

>>53804520
fuck, got pre-empted looking for a gif.

>>53804577
It's not bait, i'm just inexperienced.

>>53803298
Balthasar Gold is a better base for brass, wash with Agrax and then do a highlight or drybrush of Retributor Armor.

Gloss shades play nicer with metals.

>>53804616
As am I, I dont even try to paint eyes any more, I just paint skin tone, ad some nuln oil and leave it

>>53804424
very nice job on the freehand. I'm still hesitant to paint wings on my DA tanks. As for the face i'd wash it with a bit of nuln oil in the recesses.

>>53793452
I don't get it, all I can see is a normal looking Eldar.

I'm crawling on the fuckin' walls here, just want to get some fucking base colours down but 2 days until my primer arrives.

File: Slight anger.gif (4MB, 244x183px) Image search: [Google]

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>And on the 8th day, the LORD made a material that is absolute ass to work with and it shall be used to make miniatures in stupid ways so you can't prop them up or use some bluetack to make them not fly away
GODDAMMIT I HATE RESIN SO FUCKING MUCH REEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Seriously, is there any benefit for using resin instead of plastic? Is it easier to use brush primer, or is there a way to glue it onto something?
I usually use some little plastic sticks and bluetack, but it doesn't really grip the material. Superglue also doesn't work for whatever reason. And I don't want to glue my miniature onto the base either.

>>53805382
Plastic > Resin > Metal

>>53805382
did you wash the pieces first?

also if youre having trouble with super glue, use some tissue paper in small amounts to help glue the two pieces together a lot easier. works with metal too.

>>53805405
Plastic>Metal>Feces>Asbestos>Resin

>>53796531
>>53796583
>>53796656
Well, it's mostly because rattlecans tend to explode in air transport.

>>53805451
Huh, never thought of that. I'll try it, thanks anon.
I soaked them in soap water for about an hour or two, and scrubbed them with a toothbrush afterwards, should be enough.

>>53805382

Resin detail is sharper and cleaner if done right

It's also cheaper than plastic if you have to pay for machinery

Wash your fucking resin scrub don't rage if you're completely clueless and didn't bother to do any research

>>53795828
o/

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>>53797816
don't put direct light on mini, it cast shadows and mess up with colours. If you have only one source of light, build a simple lightbox with box and wrapping paper and then set up lightsource from above.

>>53798277
yellow seem to be thick, but minis loks good overall, solid TT level. Great shop biwth checkers, hearts still need some practise but one on captain kneepad is perfect.

File: Nid test.jpg (144KB, 1270x494px) Image search: [Google]

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Test model for my nids using the old 3rd edition version of the Behemoth scheme.

Some very rough highlights on this one but I just needed to know if the scheme worked outside of the original artwork.

>>53805657
that actually looks pretty dope

The make sure to give it a nice contrasting base.

>>53805679
*Just make sure

What is wrong with my hands today.

File: HiveTyrant3.jpg (91KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53805657
That scheme is still my favorite. Love seeing what people do with it.

File: Hive_Tyrant_-_Hive_Fleet_Behemoth.jpg (685KB, 1095x1505px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53805679

Thanks man.

Yet to decide how to base these guys, both my Necrons and Minotaurs have desert bases but I want to try something new.

>>53805707

Always been a fan of the scheme, it was what made me start Tyranids 10 or so years ago, but I was never good enough to replicate it.

Strikes the perfect balance of alien and insect in my opinion.

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>>53805657
Zog me, it's byotiful!

If I ever paint nids I'm stealing that harder than a misunderstood youth to a bicycle.

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>>53805751
>Minotaurs
You're doing the God Emperor's work, anon.

>>53805657
That's a proper scheme mate.

My suggestions would be to brighten the red and grey to get more contrast like the reference and don't forget to paint the chest, tongue, and eyes.

>>53800275
Hmm, I wonder why a starter set would be supported with tutorials for beginners.

>>53802645
The screaming one?

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>>53806003

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>>53806230
Eyup.

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how is this glossy effect on the res orb done? almost looks like a marble. Doable with GW paints and water?

>>53806568
ard coat or a gloss varnish / gloss medium

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Would this be a good colour for Red Scorpions armour? Or should I go a shade lighter?

>>53805489
(if youre still here)
the problem with super glue is that it doesnt join the molecules of the material (i.e. melt them together) like plastic glue if its good should do. The tissue paper gives it a bit of 'grip' essentially lets you glue things instantaneously until the pressure does the rest to strengthen the join of the resin/metal/whatever and gives it a porous surface to react to that covers the join for the two pieces to glue together.

probably something im missing in this explanation (like actual science) but oh well.

/Bro-science lecture over.

>>53806841

I prefer a shade lighter, but that is pretty much exactly the colour Forge World painted theirs in.

The only reason I prefer slightly lighter is that it matches the artwork better.

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>>53806869
That's good advice, Anon. I'm screencapping that shit for future reference.

File: 1494776943985.gif (80KB, 480x339px) Image search: [Google]

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>>53805657
....I wish my bugs looked that nice....
Kudos, sir. Absolutely lovely.

>>53797134
>using old-style raptor jump pack
I like you anon, patrician taste right there.

>>53797504
Yep. Picked up a ton of old metal that way. Then Detol'd the heck out of it.

>>53795917
Yeah. They put solid skirts on the StuG III G and similar units. I know that they used mesh skirts on some of the later Pz IV to save on weight, and those would be easy to replicate with car body mesh.

>>53795618
>>53795610
looks like you had a wild time with the cyanoacrylate, there

>Order Citadel Base Paints pack.
>Open them all up to check them.
>All are good except Ceramite White, which has the consistency of Silly Putty.

Is this a common occurrence? And how do I properly fix it?

>>53797525
that OSL really is unfortunate, it takes an otherwise great paintjob into Awaken Realms territory

>>53799591

This is the funniest random picture I've ever seen.

Like, I don't even want to know the context. I want to believe that there's some ancient spell that summons Patrick Stewart to your ball pit, whereupon he dispenses life advice in his sage voice before giving you a Toblerone and disappearing with the chime of a bell.

>>53807961
Shake it longer and harder then you already did. No joke. I had the same issue with Vallejo's white too so I think it's just something about the colour.

>>53808081

>shake it longer and harder

Welp. Time to open the Slaanesh folder again.

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I think he wears the mask in order to filter harsh atmospheres.

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Converting my old Nids up

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First pass on the horns. Might still need a bit more blending.

>>53808315
What is this, dental putty?

>>53793843
Is he eating another ork's head or is the head you chose just tiny?

>>53808273
He's lookin kinda' slim.

>>53808315
What the fuck is that, gum?

>>53808335
Hey! Good to see you back around here, and still making her a fucking Tzeentchbag. What are you doing with the tattoo's/indents in her flesh? Are you going to add a bit more depth/color to those metal parts? Finally, the horns are looking not so bad. Pretty good, even. But I have to confess as much as you'll hate me for saying this, they remind me of dragon dildos.

Otherwise, I look forward to seeing more progress. The blue of her right wing looks really nice as well.

>>53808452
That last bit was mean't for >>53808331
Apologies, other Anon.

>>53808452
Metal is still just a base + wash. It needs a lot of working up and detailing.I'm still debating about the tattoos, I agree they'll need something else to make them look more purposeful, what I'm not 100% sure. Perhaps a really thin tint to blend into the darker parts?

Also, darn it. Can't unsee.

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>>53808315

AT LAST [BUUUUUUUUUURP] A NEW BODY WORTHY OF MY [UUUUUUUUUUURP] GLORY!

have any of you fine young negros ever built your own custom dice tower and do you have pics?

>>53808510
>Perhaps a really thin tint to blend into the darker parts
What about a blue, similar to her wings? Not the light blue, that is. Perhaps at the base of her legs, so it's a bit more fire-like (so light blue into dark blue as it progresses closer to the tips).

>Can't unsee
I told you you'd hate me, but after looking at it a few seconds it popped into my mind and I could not deny it.

>>53808557
I thought about building my own.

I didn't, though.

>>53808615
pretty simple stuff by the look of it, I need two, one Japanese themed and one ice themed

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I've been shopping around for infantry to use in my 8th edition Imperial Guard (Astra Militarum) army, and I've discovered such web sites as Anvil Industries, Victoria Miniatures, and Pig Iron.

What I love so much about these companies is that they are willing to sell you their troops piecemeal - you can buy a sprue of heads from one site, a sprue of torsos that will fit from another, and legs that will fit in proportion still from the third. So I'm really enjoying designing my own outfit with a unique look.

That said, are there any more web sites/companies that do something similar in that they sell pieces of different looking wargame miniatures that fit well together however you mix them?

>>53804210
Yep, dish soap and a toothbrush. Don't have brush on primer, tried some of this rustoleum black that has always treated me well with gw minis. Seems to be holding up.

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>>53807961
>>53808081
I've had the same problem. Have put the bottle inside the Whisk of a stand mixer on high for long periods of time. Still seems to come out... chalky?

I really should invest in a real paint shaker..

>>53808713
Check the "List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy" link in the OP, it should have everything you need.

Bear in mind, however, that all the different companies bits are in slightly different scales and may not fit together well without some jiggering.

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I need to make a Power Lance for my rough rider sergeant.

I'm thinking of making some kind of glaive-style piece, like a human-sized version of the Grey Knight Force Halberd.

Any suggestions on how to do it/alternatives?

>>53809176
>http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

Thanks!

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Made some progress on my Thousand Sons, just basecoating, but I did manage to paint over my Black Legion Dreadnought to make it a Thousand Sons one.
A question wip/ should I spray paint my Scarab Occult terminators gold too, or just base coat them blue and use retributor as a layer for details?

>>53809220
Maybe just using a power sword? By that I mean cutting the bottom of the handle off and the blade, maybe cutting down some sprue or just using a stick to make the shaft of the lance. Fix the sword blade to the top, maybe after shortening it a bit. Otherwise, you could try and use a lance/pike from the-game-formerly-known-as-Fantasy and powersword bits to make it look suitably mechanical.

>>53809505
That's my basic plan right now. I was thinking I might have overlooked something that might be better.

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So I made this razor thin slice of green stuff to make a cloth piece on this sybarite. It still bends after a day of drying, should I coat it in super glue to reinforce it or is it that just crazy enough not to work?

>>53809608

People put the green stuff over a piece of index card or similar before bending to keep it rigid after drying.

>>53809623
It's not the pliability that bugs me, I'm worried it will break.

>>53809691

In that case you WANT pliability. Rigidity leads to fragility.

>>53809727
'preciate it.

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What else could I do?

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>>53809760
Will tidy up base rim and finish flying skull.

>>53809760
He seems great to me. Congrats anon!
Did you prime him black or white?

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>>53808315
Anon please, what is this

>>53808447
Its an AOBR warboss head

they dont make ork heads any bigger

Is there a way to convert or change the colour of clear coloured Necron plastic (for crystals/rods).

I've been buying custom mades ones and they're fine, but I can imagine they're not an infinite supply and not being in the US/UK really limits my other buying/commisioning options.

>>53809924

Just paint them and try out some OSL.

>>53809953
Would it just be a case of priming and then painting?

I wouldn't think that anything would stick very well to that kind of plastic.

>>53809985

Primer is made to stick to things, though you might wanna try some test sticks by themselves.

>>53809924
>but I can imagine they're not an infinite supply
Why not? I just googled "colored plastic tube" and got a bunch of results. I'm sure you could go to a hobby or craft store and find all sorts of stuff to try out.
Hell, if push comes to shove, you could start getting suitably sized clear plastic straws and give them a glaze of whatever color you're going for.

If you -really- need to convert the standard rods, there are ways (using washes or glazes or whatever), but on account of them being green you're going to have a limited pallet to work with.

>>53809924
>I've been buying custom mades ones and they're fine, but I can imagine they're not an infinite supply and not being in the US/UK really limits my other buying/commisioning options.
You could buy enough to last the entire army.

Or just keep an eye out for acrylic rods in the right diameter. They're kind tricky to find cause you mostly get 2 or 3mm ones, but you need 2.5mm ones (that's from memory so measure to be safe), but there are places that sell them.

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>>53800688
so if you're still here

there are three options that I know of that are conversion kits. finding 1/32 (which is what you want since 1/48 is too small) is tricky due to 40k having a unique aesthetic so just sticking some aquilas on it wont really cut it if you want it to look good.

I bought the zinge industry one. its expensive but gives you most bang for your buck in my opinion.

theres a couple on ebay which look okay along with some cool chimera kits that may actually be what you are looking for if you want an IFV as opposed to an MRAP.

the third option is victoria miniatures but as with all their range it is hideously expensive and imo is average looking and stuck in the past in regards to their guardsman aesthetic. the taurox kit looks okay though. a bit bare bones however.

hope this helps.

as with all these kits unless you really take a liking to the company. buy an polyurethane instant mould and just duplicate the bits if you want 3-4 MRAP looking things with spending your whole paycheck on em.

>>53809608
greenstuff always stays somewhat flexible.
The greenstuff will most likely not break, but the paintjob on top of the moving bits may suffer.

To counteract that you could try sculpting the GS over a wire armature, or use something else.
Like aluminium foil or metal from a tincan for example. Aluminium foil is pretty soft, but if you cut a tin can open that stuff is pretty sturdy.
You just have to sand the edges where you cut it, so you don't cut yourself on the edges. Treat it with some fine grit sandpaper before priming and you should be good.

>>53810030
Ok cool, thanks.

I've got a few spare green rods since I've ordered the other ones already, so I'll try out something on those.

>>53810055
>>53810048

I've been thinking of just buying out the sellers current supply so that I'm good for a decent while. I don't plan on having Armageddon style games.

I didn't really think of just normal plastic tubes, though. I didn't even really think of anything non-clear. The main problem was shipping things halfway across the world adds up. However I'll experiment with different materials.

Thanks for the tips.

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>>53810088
>>53810161
Here's an example of a Zinge conversion. This is a restored one, stripped, remodeled and repainted. It only uses the wheels; the suspension is original to the model (too much glue by the previous user, I couldn't get it off).

I hope this gives an idea of what to do.

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>>53810161
>I didn't really think of just normal plastic tubes, though. I didn't even really think of anything non-clear.
Just to clarify, when I said acrylic rods, I meant clear ones.
You can get them in a range of colors.

Some people use cocktail picks too.

>>53807180
no problem. the syntax is fucky but I think what I said was legible.


>>53810205
yeah thats the one, it always makes me laugh how they managed to squeeze their website domain onto the tires.

the other main problem in my eyes with the taurox is that the exhaust for some reason loops back into the main cabin and out the side again as if the person design this had just hit the crack pipe before handing in the abortion of a design that was at the height of KirbyGW-studios.

>>53810161
What >>53810238 said. Non-clear is an option, but I did mean clear. That's what most of the results I got were anyway. Hell you might be able to make your own shit desu.

Those blue rods are sexy as hell.

>>53810161

S H A P E W A Y S

https://www.shapeways.com/product/DRVQDEYTN/space-undead-energy-rods-x20?optionId=40860460

or buy a smaller bundle legit and then use instant moulds to save money.

>>53810205
and also the airlock doors for an airtight seal to choke out all the passengers on exhaust fumes. except theres a gaping hole in the turret.

>>53810326
Yeah, I thought it was a bit fucky too but I couldn't figure out where else to put the pipe (or to get the damn thing off). I figure if the pipe routs through the cabin at least the danger of a leak is only as bad as the pipe insulation.

I WAS able to get the damn volley guns off the sides and onto the turret where they SHOULD be, at least.

>>53810238
Those actually look really good.

>>53810399
Never heard of Shapeways, might have a look around. Also
>Undead Energy Rods
made me lol

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>>53803961
You are my hero, anon

>>53810400

yeah honestly the volley guns/autocannons sitting outside the side hatches is another bonkers thing that they probably shrugged off as 'grimdark' or some shit.

personally I would have tried to pintle-mount the volley gun along with a gunshield but I just use regular taurox without them so it would be extra work for no reason.


>>53810448
yeah shapeways is hours of browsing fun until you hit a wall on prices.

its mainly for space marine shoulderpads like here
>>53797286

>>53793416
Due to stuff I have to add bases to minis I've already painted. Is brush on primer the best option for painting the basing without ruining the mini with a rattlecan? Are there cheaper brush on primers than GW's crap?

>>53810498
>gunshield
mm. Possibly a good idea, though you ALSO can take a pintle storm bolter/heavy stubber. In my case I wanted something on the other side of the turret for balance. It felt like it would look better that way.

>>53810522
You could just wrap your minis up in painters tape and then use what you already got.
Failing that though there is always cheaper stuff around.

Vallejo for example. No first hand experience with the primers, but everything else I bought from them so far (regular paints) has been pretty great.

New thread:
>>53810596

>>53810587
Hm, painter's tape. Might work. Would save me a few bucks on paint on primer too. Thanks

>>53809245
you somehow managed the odd look of having the gold trim and detail appear flat with the underarmour being put on top of it. personally it also stops you from being neat adding a gold trim after the blue so you end up with some messy detail on the complex chest pieces and helmets. Also the undercoat looks way too thicc.

Dreadnought is a lot better than the squad though so
>>53810544
yeah the gunshield idea is off some converted chimeras but I think it would fit the MRAP aesthetic better.

i was also thinking of doing a taurox flatbed or with a rollbar instead of the back bonnet. then you could stick stubbers and bolters off the back and side kind of like a rolling fortress (stormlord) or more of SAS desert recon dealio with camo netting and extended radio aerials.

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>>53810668
Something like this?

This doesn't use the Taurox kit but I think it carries the idea.