/wip/ thread

Reposting because I want opinions:
I'm experimenting painting these Tazzangors and Spawn mainly with Druchii Violet and Lofn Blue. Should I add more colors to the Spawn and if so,what? I believe yellow, purple, and blue all work well together.

File: IMG_8874.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

I forgot the picture.

File: CaptainPart2.jpg (1MB, 3914x2936px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3914x2936px

Named my captain Fuckbastard as a placeholder. Anyone have any suggestions for an actual name? also anything I should work on with Fuckbastard aside from the base (which I plan on working on when I get some sand).

>>53484291
I think you should add some oranges or other warm colors as well. Especially on the tentacles/horns growing out of them just to add more variety. Having complementary colors can help make them more visually interesting.

File: IMG_8484.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>53484679
He seems pretty great! What wash did you use for the robes? I've been struggling to figure out which areas of robes/capes/tabards to shade and which ones to leave alone.

For names, I generally look at objects around me and modify them. One biker Seargert was named Sgt Cupola for a cup I had on the desk. Cooking or food terms can be good like Brioche, Braise, Baste, Brown, Brulee, ect. Here's a (mediocre) picture of my Imperial Fists to keep this thread moving.

>>53484679
Brighter Highlights on the ropes and purity seals would pop more. Really just a dot on each segment of braid and speckled on the wax of the seals would do it.

The black on the power armor and the strap on the bolter look less finished, like they're either lacking highlights or highlights are too dull.

The white on the shoulders looks a bit thick.

Love the color choice and the grittiness of the robe and metalics.

>>53484711
Perfect, thanks!

>>53484819
I used Nuln Oil. What I do for robes is I base coat then i use a shade. I go over the less recessed areas again with the base color and then use a highlight on the most raised edges. I was a little liberal with the highlights on my captain.

File: salamander_sergeant.jpg (194KB, 1500x1097px)

194KB, 1500x1097px

Painted up this dude as a sergeant for a squad of salamander tactical marines.

I tried to thin my paints better this time, but I feel like it still came out a little thick. What do you guys think?

Tried to do a magma pattern on the shoulder cloth too, and some flames on the other pauldron - any tips on painting those smoother?

File: mug_constanza.jpg (45KB, 574x432px) Image search: [Google]

45KB, 574x432px

>>53484819
>Cooking or food terms can be good like Brioche, Braise, Baste, Brown, Brulee, ect.

How about "Mug"? "Mug Costanza"?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRUdaWZ4FN0

What's the best way to Alpha Legion? Blue + super watered down green?

File: Purple Moonz Boy front.jpg (361KB, 1639x1380px) Image search: [Google]

361KB, 1639x1380px

The first boy of the new and improved Purple Moon clan for the new edition, ready for stompin'!
How's he looking? First Ork I've painted since back in 5th edition.

>>53485195
thin paints a little more
Maybe use more colors for a gradient effect, or just slowly add white/black to it each time.
you can highlight some of those black areas with a realllly dark grey and it might help it a little?

Just my 2 cent

For what it's worth though, it looks pretty good.

File: Purple Moonz Boy back.jpg (372KB, 1591x1630px) Image search: [Google]

372KB, 1591x1630px

>>53486000
And a look at the back.
Yes I know I posted this in the 40k general

File: IMG_5860.jpg (155KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

155KB, 800x600px

Archmagos senpai notice me!!!

File: Old boy vs New Boy.jpg (2MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x1840px

>>53486000
>>53486008
And as a little bonus, one of my old Orks compared to the new one
I love looking back at your old minis and seeing obvious improvement

>>53486000
>>53486008
>>53486046
Focus your camera

>>53486027
>TWO titans
[is disgusted in poorfag]
Nice work, anon. Can we get some closeup?

Currently struggling with gesso to get even coats. Spray primer fucks up with white but works fine with black. No airbrush, nor money for one, nor space for one, nor ventilation anywhere I COULD make space.

Any tips for priming a flat, even white?

Reminder that fire warrior shoulderpads are the devil's work. And the strike team ones are fucking ugly as well.

>>53486000
a bit rubbish, or at least your michael-j-fox-cam makes it LOOK rubbish. get some washes on that boy's face man

hey WIP folks, I'm going to be buying some greenstuff and a roller from greenstuffworld, probably, and I'm thinking about actually buying some tools - I've made do with improvised tools thus far. Do you have any recommendations as to tools that are really essential or probably not worth it?

File: RN9NjFr.jpg (378KB, 1280x768px) Image search: [Google]

378KB, 1280x768px

I want to make a Hua Yuanese Genestealer Cult and a small Exterminator kill team, how would you go about painting this scheme as well as more "asian" skin?

File: 1455666255108.jpg (272KB, 1280x768px) Image search: [Google]

272KB, 1280x768px

>>53486595
The less obnoxious uniform, but probably not the one I'm going to go with

>>53485195
It looks great, but i would thin down the highlighting on his right knee. It's a single line that can improve front view of the model A LOT

File: 6b9Ud017svcvnjk1s36mjb7_vzom89.jpg (79KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

79KB, 1280x720px

>>53484235
Making a kitbashed commissar (left) and eversor assassin (right) based on RPG characters I've got. I've painted the Assassin which I'll upload in a bit

also I think it should be said these two are my first attempt at higher-quality painting and kitbashing

File: 6ecUd017svcnso7mc73wfye_ug4ia6.jpg (83KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

83KB, 1280x720px

>>53486936
Also sorry for shitty phone quality
how's it look /WiP/?

>>53486595
I like the teal/obnoxious version better. If done right, it could be garish in a good way.

Asian skin, idk. Pallid Wych Flesh would probably be the go, stay away from darker washes, highlight a few lighter layers. I guess it depends what kind of Asian you're going for.

>>53486936
>>53486948
>Eversor assassin
>just a Scion
>not even a skull face
Ged the fug oudda here.

>>53487046
>implying I give a shit

I do what I want, I'll field him as a Space Woof chaplain if I want to

File: image.jpg (19KB, 367x202px)

19KB, 367x202px

>WHTV Tip of the Day
>last video was two days ago

File: Dental_Spat2.jpg (68KB, 600x600px)

68KB, 600x600px

>>53486578
Buy cheap modeling spatulas.

>>53484235
I've shaken and tapped my models to get rid of all the excess sand on their bases, but I'm curious about the layer of extremely fine grit left that clings to the surface of the base (the sort of fine dust that you can only notice is there by touching it).

Will an application of primer be enough to seal that down and stop any flaking of paint on the base, or do I need to seal it down properly like I would with flock using some watered down pva?

>>53487237
Seriously, give up on sand and start using the citadel basing stuff.

I am so glad to see that paint-sucking shit material go. Never looked back.

>>53487237
>>53487278
Use texture paint AND sands of varying coarseness for the most natural look. Vallejo makes some good stuff.

>>53487278
>>53487315
I don't mind the pointers anons, but I just want to know if primer alone is sufficient to seal dust.

>>53487347
I don't see why it wouldn't.

>>53487151
Where from? I live in australia, and haven't seen anything like that in the right kind of scale anywhere

File: 4b7Ud017svc1ugu9j3hbjo4j_bfoqmt.jpg (103KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

103KB, 1280x720px

>>53486948
>>53486936
Okay I finished the guy on the left.
>inb4 thin your paints

thinning paints aside, how does it look? it's the first time I've made a face and I had to do it 4 times over

File: 1496044066293.jpg (515KB, 1665x1665px)

515KB, 1665x1665px

Need to highligth the edges, and do the eyes. But im calling these guy finished. Thougths?

>>53487095
Lord Duncan is busy handing out tips, live in person to the Beloved Select.

File: ork facepaint.jpg (1MB, 3264x1840px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x1840px

>>53486159
>>53486542
Yeah I think those are just some poor shots, I'm get better ones in the future.
On that note, I tried to do some facepaint on one of the boyz. I applied Agrax after putting on Xereus Purple, but it doesn't seem to darken all that much. How does it look? Picture any better?

>>53487741
The only complain I have is the thickness. It looks really good otherwise.

>>53487741
Face doesn't look to bad, could do with a wash.

Also make sure you close your paints fully, I can see 3 in that pic aren't closed. You'll dry out your paints otherwise.

>>53487755
looking swanky, anon. the bone leaves much to be desired tho, could use with some darker washes

>>53487941
>>53487862


thanks my dudes

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>53485884
Incubi darkness + athonian camoshade + waywatcher green glaze + moot green drybrushed as highlights

And then leadbelcher/nuln oil wash for the silver parts

Pic related is my Arkos the faithless

My camera sucks and doesnt show the blueness of his armor well. But it looks better irl with better lighting

>>53487741
>>53486948
Not enough colours, the details of the mini are lost. Need more highlights to accentuate the armor and clothes. Also don't do eyes before doing washes. Usually you want to do the eyes last in the face after the washes are set and create a good shadow around the eye sockets.

File: think.jpg (40KB, 322x373px) Image search: [Google]

40KB, 322x373px

>>53484679
Ezikiel Goldwing.

>>53487782
he is great. met him at the fest.

File: DSC_0769.jpg (1MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3840x2160px

Alright guys. I just got into 40k a couple of weeks ago after lurking on /tg/ for a year. I started a bt army. Painting turns out to be another harder than I thought and I want some tips and ways I can improve

Pic related is the first model I have ever painted, I know it's pretty bad so don't get to savage with the criticism please.

Also how do I stop my hands from shaking when painting? It's like I have fucking parkinsons.

>>53489795
Uhk. It's fucking sideways, kill me now.

File: DSC_0776.jpg (3MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3840x2160px

Hopefully this one isn't sideways.

>>53489795
I like it. Now give it a good base and you'll thank me

>>53489855
I want to make it a sand base with little tuffs of grass here and there and then spread vallahaln blizzard or whatever it's called

File: DSC_0779.jpg (2MB, 3840x2160px)

2MB, 3840x2160px

This is my second one, I'm also happier with how this one turned out

>>53489795
>>53489838
>>53489850
>>53489870
>>53489924
>>53489940
>>53489949

Thin your paints. Get a smaller brush for the eye lenses

>>53490003
Okay. I'll start thinning my paints.

>>53489924
Clean the eyes area with black. Try to highlight the edges like the helmet, fingers, knees and sides of the backpack. Also you need to paint the chains and the boltgun in a different color.
The robes could do some cleanup with bone white in the rised areas.
Finally you need to tidy up the chains in the left hand, specially where it meets the sword. Also i recommend to wash the gold on the sword and the chains.
A good trick with BT is to not glue the shoulderpads and prime them with white, while the actual model can be primed with black or grey.
The basics on mini painting are about techniques and patience. At this level the only skills you really need is how to thin the paints properly, followed by the use of washes and how to highlight. Good tools are important though.

>>53490191
I shall take your advice on-board. Thanks.

>>53486970
What about the uniform? What paints would you use?

File: 1495907371957.jpg (3MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 3840x2160px

>>53489949

Solid first Templar, welcome to the Crusade brother! As the others told you before, try thinning your paints, dont use them out of the pot. For shaky hands, try resting your elbows on the table or chair, helps me a lot. I have a nice BT armor painting guide, can post it if you want.

>>53490298
Yes please.

File: bvcb7rjyxpxwkuw7x.jpg (69KB, 533x800px) Image search: [Google]

69KB, 533x800px

>>53490320

Not mine, the honour and the tribute should go to madmatt with his perfect BT....

Step 1: Basecoat
I don´t use 2k-basecoats on my Templars. I use one or two thin layers of GW Chaos Black from the spray can.

Step 2: Removing the black gloss
I don´t like the glossy black of GWs Chaos Black Spray, but I really love how it sticks to the plastic. That´s why I use it. To remove the gloss, I mix a very watered down mix of Revell Aqua Color Matt Black (you can use Chaos Black instead if you don´t have any of those Revell colors). Then I add some small drops of Badab Black and a tiny brushtip of Graveyard Earth. The mini gets a 2nd thin basecoat with that mix and all of the gloss should be gone. Great. A positive side effect wil be that the next layers of color will stick better to your mini :-)


Step 3: Pre-defining Lightreflexes
As I find it really hard to get smooth transitions when painting light colors on black I try to do this step quite quickly achieving a rough base for light-reflexes in the later process of painting. I mix a watered color of milky consitency from Adeptus Battlegrey, a little bit of Kommando Khaki, some Bleached Bone and a tiny little droplet of Badab Black. Sorry, there is no exact recipie as I always mix my colors indiviually, so that there are always minor differences in color tones to represent, that some of them are more worn-off than others. Well, as you can see in the picture, apply this mix generously to the surfaces that shall get a black to grey transition late on. When you have finished this step, your minis will look really messy. Don´t worry, that´s about to change in step 4...

1/2

File: bsbj634ziqecuu63c.jpg (128KB, 1024x753px) Image search: [Google]

128KB, 1024x753px

>>53490415

Step 4: Defining light-reflexes and smoothing the transitions
Now it´s time to use the rests of your mix from step 2. I put layer after layer over the areas that have to get darker again. Therefore it´s important to use the "flat" side of the brush with little paint on it only. The strokes must be directed towards the darker regions of the part thats being painted. This is really time consuming. Don´t overdo it, because, then you´ll have to counterpaint with lighter color again. There´s another reason not to overdo this: Most likely you´ll add some battledamage later. Nevertheless, try to get smooth transitions and it´s quite helpful to put the mini under harsh white light form above and take some photos if you aren´t sure where to put the centre of light reflexes...
Once the smoothing is finished, add some more chaos black to your color mix, to make it a harder black again and put some blacklining into the darkest corners of your mini.

This helped me a lot for the start... If you add your own flavour and style you can painnt some wonderful minis!

>>53490415

but i mostly skip step 2...

>>53490320

i also got a more detailed tutorial for every part of the mini, but it would be too long to post here...

Damn, this is good. Thanks for posting this I'm going to try it out.

>>53490520

don't give up, the first minis never turn out as good as you want,good results take time and lots of minis painted!

>>53490608
Thanks man, I'll just have to practice alot. Painting high Marshall helbrect is going to be a pain. Just looking at his detail I think I'll paint him last.

File: stoopidbeakie.jpg (60KB, 884x696px) Image search: [Google]

60KB, 884x696px

So i drank the cool aid and got a lot into the 40k 8th edition thing. And decided to plan a plague doctor themed Admech army cause of the deathguard thing.

this is my first test, i never sculpted with greenstuff so dunno, i think i will need a lot more exercise to get it right.

do you guys have any suggestion on other stuff to add on the theme other than plague masks?

File: bved0l2rz41fz2hio.jpg (128KB, 841x1159px) Image search: [Google]

128KB, 841x1159px

>>53490520

sry forgot the rest...

Step 1: Accentuating the edges
Having finished the light reflexes on the surfaces it´s time for accentuating the edges of the armour. Therefore I use a mix of Fortress Grey and Bleached Bone which is watered down a little bit, but not to "runny". So paint with the flat side of the brush and only little amount ouf color around all important edges an put some dots onto the rivets. Be careful to make the accents as narrow and decent as possible!

Step 2: Sponge(bob) technique
I used to use an old blister sponge for this, but in the times of "fine"cast it´s quite hard to get your hands on those :-(. My wife uses some yellow square kitchen sponges for washing up (really looking much like Spongebob [I mean the sponge, not my wife!!!]). Those are great surrogates. I tear of a little bit, take it with the pincers and dip it into pure, unthinned Chaos Black. Then I remove the recesses by pressing it onta some kitchen paper, before carefully, I repeat CAREFULLY, applying my battledamage to the armour by dipping the sponge onto the surfaces. Really: BE CAREFUL! You don´t want to destroy your work you´ve done before. On the other hand, battledamage is quite helpful to cover minor mistakes at the light reflexes. Great. If you want to have a more scratchy look, then you can use a detail brush to paint on some more damagey by hand.

Step 3: Accentuating the battledamage
Now you apply thin lines (the thinner, the better!) directly under the black dots and scratches. Therefore you should use the mixture of Step 1 of this tutorial. Et violà, battledamage is finished. Surely you could go further, adding some rusty pigments or start with oil colors so that the damage looks older and more grimy. But I don´t want that on my templars and so, it´s time to stop here and finish all the other details on the mini

File: DSC_0786.jpg (2MB, 3840x2160px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3840x2160px

>>53490846
Sweet thanks.

This is my current BT army so far.

File: 20170529_165220_HDR~01.jpg (414KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]

414KB, 1920x1080px

>>53486007
>>53486773
Thanks guys, I'll go over the highlights again. I'll do the rest of the squad too, painted these a while ago.

Any idea on how I should base them? I don't really want to do lava.

>>53486000
I never understood the vibrant green with vibrant purple color schemes, looks horrible. Model itself looks okayis, paint is a bit thick, and lacks highlights. also, drill that barrel.

File: FB_IMG_1496065921064.jpg (127KB, 1280x960px) Image search: [Google]

127KB, 1280x960px

I was going through the pictures, and the guy on the left commented on fb, apparently he's 6ft7 outside of the armor and 7ft with the armor. The SM is leaning a bit on the picture but goddamn Duncan is one tall bastard.

>>53486000
Clan what ?
Also there's no ork in that pic, just a messy painting table

>>53490960
The Crusade is eternal! Keep up the work, but i would try doing the robes and tarbards in an color like ushabti bone highlighted with screaming skull... overall i like where this is going!

>>53491158
Desert, or Hive City, make it an Armageddon themed force.

>>53491597
:) Thanks.

File: 20170529_163340~01~01.jpg (131KB, 884x1024px) Image search: [Google]

131KB, 884x1024px

So i'm trying my hand at scratch-building a Hq/for fun model, i'll clean up the hood with some sandpaper later, i'll also post the base i'm working on for him.

>>53490298
>tfw for a second I thought that scroll said "HONK"

File: 20170529_164658~01~01.jpg (206KB, 988x1024px)

206KB, 988x1024px

>>53491975
And here is the base

>>53491158
Do urban. Streets and rubble and shit.

>>53490715
That*s really cool for a first try, it's allot better then my first. as for what else you could add some more steam-punky stuff. Tophats maybe?

File: IMAG1613.jpg (420KB, 1238x948px) Image search: [Google]

420KB, 1238x948px

I have no idea what this is going to be.

File: DSC_0017.jpg (1MB, 3104x1746px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3104x1746px

Was flicking through an old white dwarf and uncovered our Spiritual Liege

There's nothing wrong with using automotive spray primer, right guys?

>>53492434
I've been using plastic touch-up paint for years, so if you keep the right distance you should be fine i guess.

>>53492434
For the past few years, I've used Duplicolor Sandable Primer exclusively. It's cheaper than GW, goes on nice and smooth and the cans have a good amount of paint in them. As long as you get a can that doesn't go on too thick, you should be fine.

>>53491991
maybe i will change it, however it depends on his actions on the battlefield

>>53491975
Where's the horse skull from?

>>53488425
well I didn't want some of the details to be very visible (like the lines on the scion armor) so that works well

>>53487941

I hear all this talk about doing washes, how is this done? The most I've ever painted is mass-produced guardsmen that are all tabletop worthy

Hey everyone,

I've been paining models casually for a while, but I have never read up on how to be a genuinely good model painter. I pour some paint onto a piece of plastic and slather it on my model, then do some drybrushing and inking to add depth. It is serviceable, but now I would like to try and get serious about painting. I still hold the model with my grimy fingers which leads to a lot of primer being removed, and I notice that my paint is often chunky on the model, which leads me to believe I am using too think of paint or I am not applying it correctly.

Could anyone point me to some good beginner guides that go right to the basics (including how thin/thick your paint should be), and perhaps some basic instruments like vices that can be used to hold a model without getting finger grease all over the primer/paint?

No tutorial is too basic, I probably have a lot of bad habits that I developed from winging it for many years, so any chance to unlearn and correct some bad behaviours is great.

>>53493053
i got it from the really old chaos space marine starter box, but i'm guessing you could get one from a vehicle accessory kit if nowhere else

>>53493118
You buy a wash/shade paint and
a) paint it in the recesses of the model, or
b) paint the entire model. The paint will naturally pool in the recesses, giving the model depth.

Depending on what colour of wash you use you can give minis different effects. The "Basic" wash I use is Nuln Oil, painted over the mini. Often I'll use another wash on the relevant bits, like a blue wash on just a blue cape etc.

>>53492279
Obliterator with slug/maggot bottom? Could work, as it looks like you've glued him to the base already. Even a chaos sorcerer with a slug bottom would be cool

File: WP_20170526_004.jpg (1MB, 2592x1456px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 2592x1456px

>>53493119
No tutorial here, just some tips:
You want your colours to be quite thin. Buy one of GW:s "air" type paints, it should be something like that for best effect. You'll notie that a single layer isn't ever enough. Sometimes even two or three layers won't satisfy you. This is good for 2 reasons:
1) It lets you "blend" if you want to, meaning one or two very thin layers of paint will let the other colour show through, giving the whole thing a different look, and
2) It's hard to overdo it unless you clump a huge pool of colour on the mini to let it dry. Paint multiple thin layers for best effect. There is a reason Duncan's tip is a meme - it's one of the most repeated advice to new painters, along with ye olde paintthinning.

Hold the bases of the model when you paint it, or glue/bluetack it to a piece of plastic or something.

Pic related. Primed, base paints applied, drybrushed then washed. Decent tabletop quality.

File: s-l1600.jpg (172KB, 1600x900px) Image search: [Google]

172KB, 1600x900px

Bought pic related for 20 bongs.

Does anyone have any advice they could impart to help me with paint stripping them when they arrive?

I have checked the OP link already, however some of the brands are not available in the UK.

Is acetone alright or would you lads recommend something else?

Cheers in advance.

>>53484679
please, keep Fuckbastard as a nickname

>>53493479
I've used Dettol before, works well.

You want the basic Dettol liquid, the brown fluid that comes in jugs. Soak them in a tupperware box overnight then scrub the liquified paint off with a toothbrush, and give them a good rinse afterward.

>>53493479
Acetone works but I'd recommend something else. Supergreen is biodegradable so use that if you can. Just dump them in a washed icecream box full of it for a week or two then get to scrubbin'

File: 14848414478193.jpg (418KB, 800x589px) Image search: [Google]

418KB, 800x589px

>>53493547
>>53493561
Thanks fellas

>highlights
I finished painting an entire box of Dark Vengeance and I never thought of doing that once outside of occasional capes.

What colors do you use? Do you just use a brighter version of the base color where you apply it as a rule of thumb?

Does anyone else start to feel tired after 3-4 hours of painting and just stop caring and don't pay as much attention?

I always say I'll stop and take a break or continue some other day, but at the same time I really want to finish the miniature, and it just doesn't look as good as I want it to.

>>53493852
I paint my imperial guardsmen in batches of 10, and I definitely notice that the quality of my work starts declining at the 2 hour mark. You can tell which guys were given finishing touches last because they are noticeably worse.

>>53493780
Yes and no. You can get cool effects by highlighting with a different colour, it really depends on what you want to achieve.

File: pulled_from_the_broth_052317s.jpg (337KB, 1280x830px) Image search: [Google]

337KB, 1280x830px

>>53493479
>Is acetone alright or would you lads recommend something else?

Brown Dettol is the stuff for you Brits. Acetone works very well on metal (pic related), but .. you really don't wanna get that stuff on yer hands.

>>53494026
Ehh, a little acetone won't kill you (not that I'd go washing my hands in the stuff). Kills the oils in your skin off, though. Beats brake fluid (which can really make you sick if it gets in a cut or something).

>>53493926
>batches of 10
Holy fuck
I tried painting my two squads of cultists from Dark Vengeance in one sitting and I felt like I was losing my mind at the 3 hour mark

Looking for tips on my new project.

I don't care about gameplay, just painting some cool models and keeping it fresh. I don't want to paint 20 of the same thing to field a unit, probably won't do anything but display these.

My plan is to paint a handful of units that are iconic or best represent each Chaos god first, then expanding to the Chaos legions that didn't fit there eventually.

So far my plan is

Tzeentch
Ahriman on the disc
The Changeling
Silver Tower Gaunt
Silver Tower Pink Horror

Khorne
Kharn
Maybe a Bloodthirster
Maybe some Fantasy warriors as cultists
Unsure on Khorne, there aren't a ton of models I love

Nurgle
Some of the new starter edition Plague marines for sure
Probably some of those cultists too

Slaanesh
Might try to pick up some of the old metal Noise Marines, not sure other than that.

Undivided
Abaddon would be great if they made a new model

Maybe an Iron Warriors Vindicator?

I'd like some tips on what you feel are the most iconic/coolest models for each. Rule of cool is always most important.


For now I am going to start on Tzeentch, then Kharn. Those are my favorite models atm and I work slow. Hopefully the new edition will have some new stuff for Chaos overall that I will want to paint.

>>53494218
I paint BaC/BoP marines in batches of 8-12

Which shade would work better with naggaroth night + xereus purple. Druchi violet or agrax earthshade?

File: 1490744166699.jpg (923KB, 540x4845px)

923KB, 540x4845px

Remember, safety while building your minis and models!

>>53493479
Acetone or turpentine or white spirit/IPA work all equally well on metal minis. Just drop them in and wait a couple of seconds.

File: IMG_0068.jpg (2MB, 2802x3004px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2802x3004px

Wippin on to a venom or two after this raider. Comments and criticism?

I'm painting a Cadmus knight and it's time for the eyes. It looks like they use orange.

I can't remember the last time I painted anything orange, let alone bright or with a glow effect. Anyone pro tips?

>>53496009
Looks pretty decent, not sure on the glow effects on the bulb-things on the prow of the raider.

>>53496187
yeah I was sort of spitballing with that, I think I should try something different

>>53496009
Looks good anon. I like the varying "cool" colors, bright enough to pop but not overdone

Please, anons, tell me everything you know about varnish.

What are people's favourite brands? Is spraying better than brushing? Is gloss really better at protecting paintjobs than matte?

And am I right that if I put enamel based varnish on top of acrylic paint it will probably fuck up the paintjob?

>>53496309
>brushing

Not sure where you got this idea but it will pool, clump and leave white jizz marks if you do so.

>enamel based varnish on top of acrylic paint it will probably fuck up the paintjob?

Yes, it will eat the paint.

>gloss over matte

Gloss is an underlayer prior to decals, and you spray gloss as a topcoat for specific purposes.

>>53496309
>What are people's favourite brands?
I use the army painter matte varnish.
The GW stuff fucked one of my painted units up a few years ago, so I don't use that anymore.
>Is spraying better than brushing?
Depends. I experimented with ultra fine markers on a banner once. Turns out the brush on varnish dissolved the marker and the freehand painting alike.
So I always spray now. If I want a special effect with gloss I use it afterwards.

>Is gloss really better at protecting paintjobs than matte?
Yeah.

Oldschool peeps tend to do gloss first and then matte to kill the shine.
You should know that varnishes can change the appearance of your mini. Even slightly dull or alter the colors.So I'd only do that if your minis are gonna see a lot of heavy use.

So i followed Duncan's emperor children guide and it just... doesn't look as good. Where do I make mistakes?

>>53496456
>and it just... doesn't look as good.
could be just that you are not as good a painter as Duncan yet.
Hard to tell without a pic though.

>>53487400
I'm Australia too mate. Get on ebay and buy some dental tools or clay scultping tools, basically the same thing just named differently. You can get a huge array of 10-20 of them for dirt cheap.

>>53496477
It's just that base colour is barely visable, next time i'll water down the layer more. Would Druchi Violet make it better?

>>53496525
Nevermind, i just compared it to the piece of shit mini I did without base colour.
It's much darker, prettier, thinner.
Not Duncan tier but it's gucci.

>>53496525
>>53496641
often times you need to apply more than one coat to get consistent coverage.
Watering the paint down further may not be the answer here for once.
As I said though, hard to tell without pics.

>>53484235
Just bought the Orcus mini from the Reaper Bones line and I wanted to add some scars and gashes to him. Anyone have any god tutorials for that sort?

>>53496009
Son, is that going to be a gay flag?

>>53497133
I'm planning on leaving it as-is, but that might be thematically appropriate for DE

>>53496009
I would really, REALLY recommend adding, say, a cool skull to that sail

>>53492316
blood angels august 2008?

>>53493541
you should drybrush instead, Duncan approved.

>>53498639
Fuck no.

>>53498792
Drybrushed Astartes are best Astartes. It's canon.

>>53496400
>>53496449
Thanks anons. Things to think about

File: Iron_Knights_Scheme2.jpg (23KB, 250x354px) Image search: [Google]

23KB, 250x354px

Iron Knights Anon from a few threads ago. Was just thinking about the chapter symbol on the tilt shields. I know a few people use pens for intricate freehand stuff like that, what's the sort of thing I should be looking for? I don't think I've got a steady enough hand to do it with a brush.

File: heraldry_plate_besagew_by_grimsheeper-d6600dg.jpg (166KB, 1024x882px) Image search: [Google]

166KB, 1024x882px

>>53499813
>Tilt shield
Besagew.

>>53500005
Damn it I knew there was a proper name for it. Another Anon in an earlier thread said they were called tilt shields. My history knowledge is in the wrong period. Thanks, Anon.

File: 12693x1024_zps93f4b3f5.jpg (50KB, 325x480px) Image search: [Google]

50KB, 325x480px

>>53500052
That's not totally off the mark, at least; what he was referring to is an ecranche. Those are bigger and still sort of strapped in to your arm/shoulder.

File: photo_2017-05-29_18-27-37.jpg (100KB, 960x1280px) Image search: [Google]

100KB, 960x1280px

Nother dorf almost done

I know that old lore had whispers of Chaos Orks (usually Stormboyz) who dedicated themselves to Khorne, but would it be weird to have Nurgle Orks? I'm just now getting into CSM with the Deathguard from the new starter, and know absolutely nothing about them besides "gross icky plague shit". Anything in particular the Orks could count-as?

File: 1404586272550.jpg (499KB, 2086x768px) Image search: [Google]

499KB, 2086x768px

>>53502625
literally the first result in google images

alright im not sure whether to ask 40kg or wip but i need to know whether or not the snapfit marines are likely to allow any kind of customization, because im building a primaris army out of the minis in the starter pack and i want to know whether or not im going to be able to choose to have the helmet on all of my marines, i really hate helmetless marines

File: IMG_4016.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px)

2MB, 3264x2448px

Anyone have any experience with this stuff? I live in Nipland so it's what I could find. I haven't varnished any minis before so I would appreciate any tips you guys have.

>>53487786
>purple-schemed orks

A man after me own heart though mine were purple in skin, not clothes.

>>53502688
I thought those were Khorne dudes.

>>53502734
Sorry, I see the Nurgle logos now.

>>53502696
That's definitely not what you want.

This is what is least likely to mess up water-based paints.

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=1827

As for this other one, do so at your own risk. Test it out or something.

http://www.mr-hobby.com/en/itemDetail.php?iId=268

>>53503182
Thanks very much.

>>53502696
>Nipland
Share your experiences? I'm wondering what it would be like to live there for a non-weeb. Seems like most people I've heard that move there are disillusioned after learning it's not like the slice of life animes.

Cam anyone tell me If ard coat is worth it, and if there are any alternatives?

>>53503753
I'm envious of Nipland simply because it's a homogenous society and as a result can actually have it's own culture without non native's throwing a bitchfit

Also how clean their streets look and the whole place looks. God damn I'm jealous of Japan.

>tfw as soon as your conversion bits arrives you have to leave on a trip
Fuck, I still have a few days left before I'm back and it's taking a whole lot more force of will than I'm willing to admit to stop myself from ordering more bitz. I can't imagine how hard I'm going to devastate my wallet when I get back between splitting the 8e starter set with a friend, getting my airbrush setup finalized, and getting my IQ/IG/SM assembled and ready for primer (and eventually 8e).

Man the 17th can't come soon enough.

>>53503832
>that spoiler
Yeah that hit harder than it should have.
Jelly/10.

>>53502625
The old Daemonhunters codex suggested that a fluff reason for running daemons alongside Orks is that the Orks might have mistaken effigies of Papa Nurgle for Mork (or maybe Gork) and started worshipping them.

Papa Nurgle being the lovely god he is would obviously want to bestow all his gifts to his new followers...

I swear to the emperor, painting the aspiring champion's white tabbard from the new TS plastic kit its a fucking torture!

>>53499813
I use Sakura Micron Pen for black details but I don't know if they make silver.

>>53497441
>>53496009
Agreed a cool skull would really make it pop!

>>53504363
That's because you're a traitor.

It's said that the tabbards of the Black Templars only require a coat and a half of paint.

File: Magnus-Gjoen1.jpg (203KB, 1701x928px) Image search: [Google]

203KB, 1701x928px

Does anyone know how hobby stores obtain their modelling supplies in bulk for resale? Do they go directly through the company or do they find 3rd party wholesalers?

I hope this isn't considered too off topic.

File: Marine SchemeWIP.png (2MB, 2480x1748px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2480x1748px

Any input on this scheme? Emperor's Children are my favorite storywise and one of my favorite schemes.

Chapter name - Emperor's Fist? Hand of the Emperor?
Midas's Touch? (2nd shoulder pad for that name, Gordian Knot)


This took me over 1000 hours in paint.

>>53504813
I would assume it's mix-and-match depending on the product and current prices, though I can't say for sure. The company itself might be willing to direct-sale if it's smaller, while probably things like X-Acto knives would be bought from a reseller of a reseller of a reseller.

I'm completely talking out of my ass here, just putting in my 2c.

File: Novamarines_Mark_IV.jpg (51KB, 480x673px) Image search: [Google]

51KB, 480x673px

>>53504996
Pretty cool but I'd simplify it a bit more. Quartered schemes are already a pain to paint.

Maybe swap the shoulders and knees?

File: IMG_20170529_225149333-1152x864.jpg (156KB, 1152x864px) Image search: [Google]

156KB, 1152x864px

Suggestions for the colour of the lenses and spotlight? Kinda want to do black because star wars but I got no idea how to paint black lenses and if it'd be good...

File: Untitled-2.jpg (225KB, 1240x1748px) Image search: [Google]

225KB, 1240x1748px

>>53504996

File: 1402016444802.gif (342KB, 500x317px) Image search: [Google]

342KB, 500x317px

>>53484235
I'm itching to paint but my green stuff is drying. How soon can I prime this shit and get at it?

>>53505521

Did we get a clean version of the template and no one told me?

How do i make a smooth paint job with a brush?

Ive got the thinning down but when I look at Duncan's 'after' clips, he's got the mini painted in a perfectly consistent coat.

>>53505795

How long since you mixed it up and sculpted it? Usually you gotta give it a day or so to set completely. Speaking of I need to go and do some green stuff myself.

>>53505900
Did it four hours ago. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuck

>>53505898

Multiple thin coats m8 multiple thin coats. Just one isn't going to do it.

>>53505918

Got anything else you can work on? Is or late enough you can just leave it and go to sleep?

>>53505938
I don't go to bed for another 7 hours. Guess I could work on mold lines for other models, but I might enjoy licking an old plunger more than mold lines.

>>53505920
True, ive only done the first one. No way ill get it to his level with just two though.

Suppose thats where the skill and experience makes the difference.

Does the colour of primer really make a difference?

I'm looking to do some Necrons in Meprhit colour scheme (pictured) and I only have Tamiya Light Grey. I'm going to be doing a Leadbelcher base coat, I'm just wondering if this would work, or if it would end up looking terrible?

On a side note, how is Tamiya stuff? Their products are the easiest for me to get, being closest, but if they're low quality then it might be better just to travel further.

>>53506075

Depends on the colors being used.

Transparent colors like reds and yellows really need a bright (white) or neutral (grey) undercoat if you ever want to get a good, bright color. Black undercoats can work but they tend to darken down your reds and yellows (and blues to a lesser extent).

>>53486027
>what's this, what's this?
>there's rubble everywhere
>what's this, what's this?
>body parts flying through the air
the weapon loadouts are sick

File: DSC_0365-0.jpg (73KB, 860x280px) Image search: [Google]

73KB, 860x280px

>>53506113
Forgot the damn picture sorry.

Really only building a base of green and highlighting from there and orange/yellow for the energy and coils.

>>53506155

Yeah, a black undercoat would work. But you'll really have to build up your basecoat for the orange - mid-brown to dark orange to bright orange. Otherwise you'll never get any good coverage.

This is coming from someone painting Bad Moonz over black primer, because I hate myself and I deserve to suffer.

File: image.jpg (2MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 4032x3024px

Working on guilliman today. This is as far as I got. Started on the spree this morning.

File: 1491633968820.jpg (49KB, 337x343px) Image search: [Google]

49KB, 337x343px

>>53506271
Nice shiny gold.

>>53506191
Awesome thanks heaps, I've never painted before or built an army so I'm going to be testing out on spare parts beforehand.

Just to be clear, I would use the light grey primer, then undercoat with black and then leadbelcher on top of that, adding in colour where necessary?

>>53506307
Behold the power of rustoleum gold...

>>53506316

Alternatively, you could primer black, then use grey spraypaint (not primer, just plain spraypaint) as pre-shading by spraying it over the black directly from above. Or you could drybrush grey over the primer using the same from-above method.

If you're determined to use plain grey, what I'd do is primer, then use a Nuln Oil wash to pick out the details and then put down the Leadbelcher - that'll be faster than using black paint.

File: zd3M3AU.gif (545KB, 256x199px) Image search: [Google]

545KB, 256x199px

>>53506271

>>53506271

I like it overall, but I hope you're not done with the purple/blue.

>>53506376
No, the head choices are still on the sprue as well.
After 7 hours of building, painting a flaming sword, I just stopped to do other things, like get a coke with my daughter and she wanted to go watch me fly some model airplanes. So we did that.

>>53506416

Oh good. I know HD pictures can reveal spots where you missed a bit, so I was hoping that wasn't the case.

>>53506271
Gold is nice, the rest is meh.
The tip of the sword looks a bit thick and the flames could do with a smoother transitions.

>>53506359
Awesome thanks again for that.

I've already got the second alternative, so I'll go with the Nuln Oil/Lead instead of just black paint.

>>53506467

Very good. Always remember that you can start off messy and get neater as you go on.

Also, if you haven't already, watch and learn from the God of Thinned Paints himself: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOvql835HcE&t=338s

>>53506451
Tell me about it. I've floated about 4 color of yellow with medium, and tried yellow glaze over palid witch flesh. I think it either gets too thin and runs in the cracks, or doesn't flow into transition.

Duncan makes it too easy.

I'm thinking about starting with an averland sunset, and floating orange and fuegan orange in the transitions...

>>53506535

Glazing takes a lot of patience and practice. Don't get discouraged. Also, flow improver > water.

>>53506508
Oh yeah, I've been watching tutorials from this god and many other youtubers.

I think I'm more excited to start painting models/bases than I am to start playing games with them.

I'm actually using airbrush reducer to get a really consistent flow. I use a white kitchen tile pallet, and a new brush. I might go to a wet pallet, but I can't get a good consistency. There is always tomorrow.

>>53506586

Don't get any rulebooks now - there's a new edition on the horizon.

Heya, guy who has been out of the game for a while here.
Any tips on removing paint fro plastic minis?
I don't want my old and shitty smurf paintjob on my minis when I dive back into 40k, but I've never had to strip paint from plastics before.
Help?

>>53506936
Simple Green works well on plastic. Just leave them in a container for a a few days and it'll loosen the paint. Grab some gloves and an old toothbrush and scrub away.

I use a chemical called L.A.'s Totally Awesome that you can buy at $1 Stores here in SoCal. Super cheap and works fine.

If you're in the U.K. then Fairy Oven Cleaner is supposed to be good, though I don't know if it's usable on plastic or if it's for metal minis only.

>>53505353
look at sunglasses with a light source. go form there.

>>53506271
>>53506307
>>53506347
No shit? That's rustoleum gold?

>>53506936

1. Get a plastic tub with a good, tight lid big enough to hold your largest fully-glued minis.

2. Buy a gallon+ bottle of Simple Green or similar product.

3. Dump your old minis into the plastic tub, then cover with Simple Green. Make sure to do it in this order so you don't overfill with Simple Green.

4. Cover and seal firmly, then set in a place out of direct sunlight for a few days up to two weeks.

5. Once you're ready to strip, pull the models out and run them under a hot tap while scrubbing the old paint off with a toothbrush. You'll get 90% of the paint off this way, and any left can be covered with new primer.

The Simple Green can be reused many times, so it goes a long way.

Anyone have any good spray primer recommendations? The last one I used made all my minis look like xenomorphs and the paint would run right off

>>53507121
I use P3's black spray primer or Army Painter spray primers whenever I want a colored primer. That said, I think airbrushed primers strike the best balance when it comes to good coverage without risking clogging detail. What primer did you use? What was the weather like?

>>53507121

Well, as with any primer, you need to check the humidity before you spray. Anything about 50-60% is too humid and will result in what you're talking about.

I use Krylon products that I get at Wal-Mart and they work decently. Just shake them for 2+ minutes and test spray on some cardboard. If it finishes smooth then you've got a good can and you should proceed.

>>53506271
Gold looks sick, but it looks like the wash pooled a little thickly in some spots. All in all though, when it's done it should look pretty great

File: satan spray.png (40KB, 240x240px) Image search: [Google]

40KB, 240x240px

>>53507174
I was in a hurry and made the terrible mistake of not testing the primer on one mini first. I'm just hoping the simple green soak will take it off

File: How dey du it.jpg (134KB, 1000x975px)

134KB, 1000x975px

How does GW do these bases?
I searched through the links in the OP and every paint guide with no luck.

>>53506535
Get a spure out and do a test on it before the sword.
It will let you know if its runny or thick before not being able to take it back.

>>53507339
Old GW employee here.

The recipe using the old colors was:
1) Basecoast Bestial Brown
2) Drybrush Bubonic Brown
3) Drybrush Bleached Bown
4) Paint rims Graveyard Earth

If you look at Studio minis from around 4th and 5th edition, that's the scheme they used. You will probably get a similar result using whatever the closest approximates are from the new paint line.

>>53507339
It's sand, slate, and grass tufts from their basing kit. Looks like it's just been drybrushed and washed.

>>53507339
>>53507562
Addendum:

If you want to replicate the old scheme, Vallejo's Game Color line is exactly the same as GW's old paint line. The names are usually close enough to figure out which is which (Bestial Brown's equivalent is Beasty Brown, for example).

>>53507339

>Guys
>I'll put
>GUYS
>I'll put shields
>Are you listening
>GUYS
>I'll put
>GUYS LISTEN
>I'll put shields
>ON MY GUNS!

File: chains.jpg (919KB, 2560x1920px) Image search: [Google]

919KB, 2560x1920px

I made these without knowing that much about greenstuff. Was rather easy even with my shaky hands.
I wanted to leave this nice tutorial here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCVcIGxSto8

>>53507575
>>53507563
>>53507562
Thanks!! I am going to literally buy all that shit like when the next store opens up. Cheers!

File: gun1.jpg (947KB, 2560x1920px) Image search: [Google]

947KB, 2560x1920px

2 questions:

> 1. I tried to make heavy armor on the left arm. People told me to just wrap some plastic around arm and it'd look fine. I used ~0.4 mm Did I fail horribly? I don't think it'd look like metal armor even if painted accordingly.
> 2. What do I use to fill the gap between 2 parts of the weapon I'm trying to convert? I'm using white putty Tamiya, but it gets f*cking everywhere and the layer is not even at all.

File: gun2.jpg (802KB, 2560x1920px) Image search: [Google]

802KB, 2560x1920px

>>53507660

>>53507660

1. It's Orks - the worse it looks, the better it is.

2. Liquid Green Stuff works okay. Use more than you need and just sand it down.

>>53491335

I got a selfie with Duncan at salute, which I'm too embarrassed to post but we're roughky the same height with him perhaps being a few microns shorter, I'm 6'2"

File: unnamed.jpg (461KB, 3392x1908px)

461KB, 3392x1908px

So I sprayed my Blood Angels with the Mephiston Red rattlecan, and it came out a bit orange for my liking. Washing them all over with Carroburg Crimson gave me the shade I want, but now my problem is doing up all of my vehicles (two rhinos and a land raider) the same way. I feel like trying to soak all of them in an expensive GW shade is a waste of money and effort, so what other solutions would you have to fix this issue?

Pic is not great, but an example of the color before and after the wash.

>>53509020
Whoops, should note, left is after, right is before.

File: 1356373241265.jpg (830KB, 922x882px) Image search: [Google]

830KB, 922x882px

>>53506020
Fuck now im realising i might have taken the thin your paints advice too far and been using a semi-wash instead.
Theres obvious layers of darker and lighter paint even on flat surfaces.

Should i fix this by doing more coats of the same or covering it with a new mix with less water/medium?

>>53507595
IIRC those aren't shields, but magnetic plates (like the ones under land speeders) to keep the guns (which are literally hand-held heavy bolters) stabilized and and not flying out of their hands from recoil.

>>53509254
>magnetic plates
>to stabilize shit

MAKES SENSE

File: warpbackpack.jpg (652KB, 2075x1202px) Image search: [Google]

652KB, 2075x1202px

After some testing (i.e. I forgot they were in there) this is the end result of long term exposure to Wilko paint stripper. The detail becomes "blurry" and areas like the holes collapse inwards. The entire piece is slightly flexible now. It's basically fucked and looks boot legged.

>>53509291
Accurate enough for scifi standards desu

Any one else notice now it's the school holidays the standards in this thread had dropped massively? Spamming Duncan pictures, posting badly painted models with wash thrown over areas?

>>53509340
Anyone else notice how summer vacation isn't until a week or two from now?

>>53509513
Yet my nephew is already off school

>>53506271
wow you can use a retributor gold spray! but you can't thin your paints for shit.

File: demig3.png (1MB, 742x843px)

1MB, 742x843px

>>53484235
Just finished my demigryph standart bearer

File: 1488834780110.jpg (20KB, 389x366px)

20KB, 389x366px

>>53509683
and realised how many little piece of paints I missed and how unshaded the armor looks, god damn

File: warpsmith.jpg (43KB, 800x600px) Image search: [Google]

43KB, 800x600px

Hey guys I've started doing conversions and I'm wondering where to get those bendy metal pipes you often see especially on chaos models (pic related).

>>53509755
They are guitar strings. Mostly steel strings

>>53509805
Thanks man, would never have guessed it.

>>53509307
With some touching up you could pass it off as a Nurgle neglected backpack.

File: maxresdefault.jpg (303KB, 1280x720px) Image search: [Google]

303KB, 1280x720px

Does anyone know how or could suggest how to paint a galaxy themed SM?

Pic related. I was thinking just black with white stars but that would look really flat and uninspiring.

>>53509932
Airbrush + masking tape

>>53509932
I imagine some crazy shit might be able to be done with mixing varnishes and thinned paints. Work up some bizarre layers or something. Then dot on and free hand some cross shaped stars.

File: ye auld jokere.jpg (88KB, 990x600px) Image search: [Google]

88KB, 990x600px

>>53491238

>>53509307
I had the same thing happen when I exposed model to isopropyl once, except it wasn't bendy, it turned brittle as hell

Is the genestealer cult citadel painting guide available somewhere?

The link in the archive for it is dead

Is it better to paint then assemble or assemble then paint?

>>53511842
Bun, patty, toppings, sauce, assemble.

File: DSC_0129.jpg (2MB, 3104x1746px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3104x1746px

Posted this guy a week ago but never got some feedback.

Really proud of it

>>53512012
Looks pretty awesome orange is under utilized. Congrats on the cool cron Anon!

>>53512012
why are the joints silver on one arm but not the other?

>>53512012
What did you do to get your orange so vibrant? The orange looks so good! I did green on some Necrons just the other day, undercoating with pallid wych flesh, and it comes out so dark.

Oh and is it an overlord or an immortal?

>>53512103
Ah, doesn't show well on the pic but only the bolts are silver and not the linking part. Might touch that up when I can.

>>53512025

Thank you. Also about the underused orange. Again, I should have taken more and better pics but all the orbs on the Cape are orange.

Can't take more pics at cos I'm abroad and left him home. :(

>>53512135
>Oh and is it an overlord or an immortal?
I thin last time anon posted it, he said it was some kind of Immortal leader for Shadow War. Hence the special base and all that.
Although he may never get cover from railings and the like ever again.

>>53512135

It's an immortal to lead my squad for shadow war armagedon.

The orange was base jokaero then a layer of either fire dragon or slayer orange (don't remember which though) using gw paints

Also I know that in shadow war rules he won't get cover most of the time but I use him when I don't care bout winning

So what do you retards use to protect minis? I read about the vanish 'Ardcoat fucks with washes. That some sprays can mess with colors and 'frost' the mini. Just finished a group of Orks from my Metal 'Ead trukk chargers and want to keep the gits pristine.

File: abby.jpg (104KB, 960x540px) Image search: [Google]

104KB, 960x540px

>>53509932

My warmahordes Legion army is galactic themed. I just base black, do some random wet blended purples and blue splotches, and splatter white for the stars

File: lylyth.jpg (86KB, 543x960px) Image search: [Google]

86KB, 543x960px

>>53509932
>>53512643

Is there a way to relatively safely remove a piece from another after the glue bonding has taken place?

Making some Necron Praetorians, I've noticed there's a large light globe under the cage on their back. That's going to be a pain if I can't get the cage off.

/tg/ how do I thin my paints properly?
I've been putting water in the paint pot so far but is there a better way? Also do I really need to thin it for a base coat? (Dark Angels mostly)

File: lens_example.jpg (36KB, 256x256px) Image search: [Google]

36KB, 256x256px

What gw colour would this lense be?

>>53506416
This is a wholesome post. It made me happy

>>53511842
/wip/ told me to assemble then paint the other week, but Skitarii robes make this a nightmare. And trying to strip them when i fucked up was even harder.

Unless the parts are too small to hold easily, I'm not seeing the advantage of assembling first.

File: tmp_17841-PicsArt_05-30-04.07.45678507336.jpg (508KB, 1526x1979px) Image search: [Google]

508KB, 1526x1979px

Update on first Stormcast from last thread, I've tried to soften the panels by using Temple Guard over Sotek w/Drakenhof and applied a recess wash of Drakenhof to the ornate areas of the armour
My brush precision is fucking ass though I need to get better and tidier but that will come with time I guess
I also tried to focus my camera better and cropped the image, still phone posting for now though

What did I do wrong? What do I do next?

>>53512854
On a palette, what the fuck are you doing putting water directly into your paints are you mad

>>53513209

Here, watch this video about wet palettes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>>53512854
>>53513390

I clicked the wrong post, my bad- but I do like the Stormcasts being silver!

>>53502061
I love this little dorfs, keep it up anon.

>>53512854
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKwDLGlb3Bk

Ive been having trouble myself and this video gives a pretty good how-to instead of the usual 'lol just thin your paint till its thin but not too thin' bullshit

>>53513449
I thought I was being bullied on my paint thickness ;_;
Great video though I havent got a wet pallette yet but I'll get one now

>>53513808
No, no! Your paint thickness is more than fine!

>>53513076
If you fuck up the assembly and glue runs free it won't destroy your paintjob. More importantly, you can see where the light/washes should go, and you have a better impression of how everything ties together.

File: IMG_2229.jpg (2MB, 3997x2614px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3997x2614px

>>53513657
Thanks anon, here's an older pic of some of the others that's further along. I'm a perfectionist so it's taking forever

>>53509683
looks good but more highlights on the metals will be nice

>>53512012
i love the model and i love the base but i don't love where the model is on the base.

>>53513882
Is fucking up the glue really more of an issue than trying to paint between/behind bits?

File: IMG_20170529_164205403.jpg (7MB, 5344x3006px)

7MB, 5344x3006px

>throw some shit together in 2 minutes, spray it for 30 seconds
>serviceable gaming mat
I am gud DIYer

File: IMG_20170529_164532854.jpg (5MB, 5344x3006px) Image search: [Google]

5MB, 5344x3006px

>>53514291
It's lightweight and foldable too

>>53514187
Who's going to be looking up your mini's skirt?

>>53514187
I'd say that depends on your glue. I don't use GW/Army Painter stuff, but rather a fairly easily available cheap-ish brand that runs very easily, and I wrecked a few models early on with it.

>>53512643
>>53512660

Looks sick anon. I'll have to practice a bit to get that kinda consistency.

>>53514319
Any well-adujsted individual that wants to see their pantsu? Besides, plenty of parts were fairly easy to see but still really awkward to get at with a brush.

>>53509755

Dragon forge miniatures has pewter recasts of guitar wire thats much more pliable than the regular stuff, though you may want to the rigidness of real ones in this case of the wires are going to be free floating.

File: Alarielle.jpg (193KB, 1296x1161px) Image search: [Google]

193KB, 1296x1161px

Finally got to a point where she's completely assembled, hopefully won't take me much longer now.
I know the foot looks really odd so I'll be trying to sort that out after I've got her wing finished.

>>53513076
>assembling skitarii before painting
You absolute madman.

>>53486027
I am aroused.

>>53485195
How did you do the chain a bits on the left shoulder? They look great (to me)

>>53515385
I'd say it's either a bit from one of the new SM kits (maybe one of the Veteran ones?) or a piece of hobby/jewellers chain with some baubles glued on.

File: IMG_20170530_142439193_crop_565x849.jpg (333KB, 565x849px) Image search: [Google]

333KB, 565x849px

How's my Sentinel doing? First time doing this style of weathering and a spotlight.

File: 1455656461173.png (68KB, 475x408px) Image search: [Google]

68KB, 475x408px

Almost done with a Baneblade, can't decide whether or not to drill out the smoke launchers. Do you anons drill them out, or leave them as is? Is the little bit at the front a cap, or just a barrel bushing?

>>53516554
I'd say it's the smoke grenade sticking out? Like, after the smokes are used up you slide a trio of new ones into the tubes, and they have a raised edge to keep them from sliding too far in? Maybe.

>>53516539

Looks really good anon!

File: IMG_0268.jpg (2MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 3264x2448px

How does wip feel about my renegades so far?

I got fucking sick of staring at a big gray blob of renegades so i decided to prime them by using a watered down layer of base coat colors

Followed by a wash

Tfw almost out of agrax

Tfw doing my ghetto ass watery paint priming didnt actually lose much detail on the models outside of a few that got kinda fucked up

Overall im just happy to not have to stare at 105 gray renegades anymore

File: DSC08897.jpg (135KB, 750x563px) Image search: [Google]

135KB, 750x563px

>>53516601
Looks like at least on modern armor it's a (presumably rubber) cap that the smoke charge shoots through. Might do a mix of fired and unfired smokes, filing off the "caps" and hollowing out the barrels.

>>53516677
I like them, a fair tabletop quality.

>>53514971
you are going to be lightening up those dark tones on the legs right

File: Primaris Scheme.png (2MB, 2480x1748px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2480x1748px

Thoughts on this scheme for primaris IF replacements/successor?

>>53517534
Angry marines/Banana/10

>>53516677
good stuff! I like Commander skullface!

I'm also assuming that some of them are forgeworld, since I don't recognize them all?

>>53514971
I would absolutely LOVE to know what colours you've used on this model.
Both the metal work, skin AND wood looks excellent.

>>53517485
I'll go back and do them at some point after the wing is done, yea.
>>53517664
thanks, the gold is VGC "Tinny Tin" with P3 "Blighted Gold" mixed in, pure blighted gold, then GW "Runefang Steel" mixed in, really light green wash then a really really light drybrush of runefang.
The skin is "Mournfang Brown" "Cadian Fleshtone" "Kislev Flesh" and white also all the glaze medium
The spear shaft is GW "Rakarth Flesh" and white. The rest of the wood is rakarth, Agrax wash and then P3 "Menoth White Highlight"

>>53516720
Thanks, thats really what I aim for.

>>53517607
the skull face was from a beastmen sprue
all i had to do was pull off the cultist champion head and replace it. it came off very very easily surprisingly.

the rest of them are a mix of the forgeworld conversion kits and skiitari/guardsman legs, with a few beastmen arms thrown in

then some of the generic snap-fit cultist models thrown in for even more fodder.

>>53484679
Captain Buck Fastaed looks neat but off... Needs some cool colours to make the gold, white & dirt pop

>>53517584
I can live with a rating of banana then.

Has anyone done Chimera Basilisk To Basilisk artillery carriage conversion?
I have tried but the results have been disappointing.
Anyone got some kind of guide or a blog of someone doing it?

File: Boyz_are_back_in_town.jpg (394KB, 2011x759px) Image search: [Google]

394KB, 2011x759px

Shadow War gang, getting there slowly

Waaaaagh

>>53519811
Looking good, I especially like the riot shield guys

>>53519811
looking great! say, how'd you get that skintone? i quite like it

>>53517534
Personally I'd swap the peach for something else, that 4a flesh coloured helmet wont look good on a model. Perhaps change the skull in the logo to red and replace the peach with black, since you're already using it elsewhere.

When you're going to paint a model that's base is black, like Black Templars, then do you still need to paint Abaddon Black over the primer and if so, why?

Hey /wip/

Does anyone have Yvraine build instructions? Bought one from a friend and forgot to ask him to give me instructions too. Google isn't helping and this hair is a mess to build. Can anyone deliver? Mobile phone pic should do. Thanks in advance.

>>53520233
Some people want the paint to look a bit smoother/less dull. I prefer not to do it.

>>53520233
Black spray primer and paint out of a pot are two different colours, if I need to touch up any areas then it'd just look odd for the black not to match.

>>53520233

I do, because primer black and abaddon black are different colours.

You can probably get away with it if you can't be fucked.

File: 20170530_172336.jpg (588KB, 933x1150px) Image search: [Google]

588KB, 933x1150px

Guess I'm a secondary forever then.

File: 20170530_172357.jpg (927KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]

927KB, 2048x1152px

>>53520402

>>53519992

Death World forest, Dark Reaper recess wash, then layer up the non recesses with DWF again

>>53520402
>>53520435

See >>53490003

>>53491975
I have no idea wtf this is but it looks rad.

File: Primaris Scheme.png (2MB, 2480x1748px) Image search: [Google]

2MB, 2480x1748px

>>53520036
Thanks for the tips, I actually like this a bit better now.

This thread is in auto-sage mode, so I made a new one

>>53520793
>>53520793
>>53520793

>>53516677
Those look near anon!
Can I see a closeup of the red guy with the sword? In the picture, he's right in front of the standard bearer.

File: image.jpg (1MB, 3264x2448px) Image search: [Google]

1MB, 3264x2448px

>>53520882
Havent really painted him in detail yet

the sword is from a beastmen sprue

>>53520467
that simple, huh?
do you just use a glaze to get the redness on their lips/grot noses?

>>53516694
Yeah I'd assume it's something akin to a dust Cap that's simply blown off when they launch the cannisters