WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Reposting my conversion from the other thread

What do you anons think

(Renegades of vraks conversions)

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Getting pumped thinking about 8e vehicle assault. Will shock prows and torment grenade launchers finally play as cool as they look?

>>53467506
I'm on the fence about the legs. They're sorta cool, but also sorta shrimpy next to the ungor/etc arms

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>>53467470
sup /wip/, I'm getting an Imperial Raider for X-wing soon, and I want to mod it.

It's supposed to be an anti-fighter ship, but it has no guns on the bottom.

Naturally, I plan to put some guns there.

I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can get some good bitz to make turrets/mounted guns out of. I had a set of DUST Tactics flak guns I was going to use, but I seem to have lost them when moving.

Does anyone know a good source for a set of bitz to use on this Raider? Does anyone have a set of bitz they would be willing to sell?

For reference, the raider is just over 13 inches or 33.33 cm long.

>>53467616
For reference, this is what the underside looks like.

I'm thinking I'll put guns either next to the landing gear, or near the rear mounting point.

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>>53467637
fug.

>>53464283
>>53462832

She is indeed stepping forward, it's the original pose of the model, i just sawed off the old calves and replaced them.

Thanks for the encouragement, I'll keep you posted.

>>53462738

Yeah, it's a mix of green stuff and milliput. I started these back before sisters of silence went to an individual box, so i didn't feel bad about copying them. now that they have their own box i'm going to start buying them (though I'll still need to copy everything but the base body, like the pauldrons and what not), but since i still have copies lying around i'm going to use them.

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First bunch for my Sons of Ymir is completed, this is actually the first time of being in this hobby that I've completely painted models with all iconography included and fully based

It feels good and I can't wait to get the rest of my army finished

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>>53467990
>Sons of Ymir

Sons?!? Historia, I don't have *any * children!

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So i started the hobby a year ago and had never painted before. This is the first thing i ever built/painted on the right followed shortly by the one on the left.

Most recent project will follow.

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>>53468221
i feel like i've come a long way but still think i'm shit compared to most of the community.

>>53468233
The chalky drybrushing is really lowering the quality of your miniature.

>>53468233
>>53468244
I like it personally

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working on my successor chapter of loyal 1kson marines for a painting competition. havent been able to spend as much time on it or do it as well as i'd like due to time constraints, but heres my gradient. mostly done with washes. it now has a shiny layer of spiritstone red all over to give it a glossy look and further blend the colours

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>>53468244
ive been trying to replicate this textured look on the carapaces. i don't want them to look super sleek and smooth like an insect. my idea was to make a hive fleet that had adapted to a heavily forested world and the carapaces should look wood like. still haven't perfected it obviously.

>>53468244
You're full of shit, it works perfectly for the carapace.

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Working on my new Dark Eldar, thoughts?

>>53468390
The sail could use some sort of freehand.

>>53468390
Like a cool skull.

>>53468412
Sail hasn't even been started yet, still trying to decide on the color, I'm leaning towards a dark red. Basically anything that's white, I haven't worked on yet.

>>53468390
kinda bright for a dark eldar, but i guess i don't know their color schemes at all so i can't say.

>>53468432
This is just my personal color scheme, I figured that while they are sadistic bastards, they also have a sense of style so they wouldn't be all dark and dreary.

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Trying to paint 30k Thousand Sons after a long break from the game. Retributor armor is the best gold paint I've ever used. It's awesome, but I'm struggling with the metallic red. Any ideas? I don't have an airbrush, so am thinking about doing layers of mixed washes. But that doesn't work well for vehicles.

Thoughts?

>>53468472
Do a bright silver basecoat and use layers of Blood for the Blood God to give them that nice candy red

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>>53468472
mephiston red
glazes and washes
spiritstone red

Having trouble with Skitarii Vanguard right now.

I can't figure which Radium Carbine is meant to go with the body for the Alpha (Torso Pieces 50 & 51 with Leg piece 49). Anyone that's built Vanguards recently able to help out?

>>53467470
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou-nyVd5hw

>>53468505
What about for vehicles? How does that work for you? I've always struggled with washes on them.

>>53468568
honestly i got my sons from the bop box so i dont have any vehicles aside from
>>53468333

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Mostly been assembling shit as I need more primer.
I did try repainting my models to have black shoulders and gold faceplates though, think I'll stick with this style for the whole army.

Will try to get more marines done and get started on my SoH contempt or this week.

>>53468244
It works great for the carapace. It wouldn't if it was trying to be metal or something, but this is basically a huge bone plate and it fits well.

Never painted anything before and I'm preparing my first army.

I've gotten all the paints and supplies I want (apart from magnets) and I'm looking to set out a schedule so I can work on these as efficiently as possible.

Would the correct way to be:

Assemble figure
Attach to base
Prime
Paint
Create base art

Or is there a more efficient way?

>>53468745
If you're painting dudes with 2handed weapons like boltguns it's usually better to paint the arms detached from the body because the gun goes across their chest and it's a bitch to get your brush around the gun to paint the chest's details. Also, sometimes attaching their legs to the base may make reaching some details harder or impossible.

>>53468233
it looks pretty good, the main thing I'd like to see is more layers on the green flesh parts which are kinda flat now. I can tell it has some but it needs more. maybe just mix that light green with something a bit lighter and give it another layer. the bone and purple wings are noice though.

also the teeth are kinda flat too maybe do a little yellow wash around the guns and some diluted yellow glaze on the rest.

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>>53468432

Brightdar, best dar.

>>53468778
Ok awesome, thanks.

It's about 30 Necron warriors, a 5 Praetorians, a Stalker and an Ark.

>>53468745
what I do:

>clean mold lines
>assemble miniature, keep the hard to paint around parts detached like a boltgun across the chest as mentioned
>glue to base
>prime and paint
>paint the detached bits that are attached to a paperclip
>carefully file/scrape/knife the paint off the parts that need glue for the attached bit, glue that on
>add decals
>glue other bits you might want like a skull or something on base
>put GW texture paint on the base, then wash and drybrush. paint the added base bits
>spray varnish

you need varnish. acrylics rub off super easy, I don't even touch the miniature at all with paint on it because I can easily accidentally rub off paint while painting.

>>53468858

Amazing list, thanks heaps.

>>53468858
i'd like to put in that instead of scraping off the primed parts you need to glue, you can use a tiny dab of blu-tack over the area you'll need to glue, prime over it, then simply remove the blu tak

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Whelp, finished my 2k tournament list, played today and won 1st place with it, which is nice because the prize is a free 8th ed box set. Pics of the armies mostly recently finished to come.

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>>53469127
Craftworld Fon'du

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>>53469145
Servants of the poop-god.

>>53469127
Whos the spooky looking qt in the background?

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>>53469153
Power rangers, with only 3 zords.

>>53469153
please tell me these arent finished

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>>53469167
Why use rhinos when forgeworld has av 13 versions.

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>>53469187
Chaos marines

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>>53469203
Fantastic new GW crane and towbot kit, with armless allies.

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>>53469180
more poop for you.

>>53461696
>>53461709
>>53461758
That looks rad, Anon. I really like the weathering/corrosion.

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r8 muh boyz

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>>53469684

>>53469684
>>53469691
Leather wrapping looks off being pure red like that rather than leathery brown
The red on the gun looks like it's just blotched on rather than worn off
The armor is hella™ flat and desperately needs highlights with another color other than your base
Guns are too monochrome and could use red/darker metal plates to break up the single color gray

The horns appear to be done well, though

>>53469229
>>53469220
>>53469203
>>53469187
>>53469167
>>53469153
>>53469145
Tournament fags are the fucking worst.

>>53469684
1/z
Needs more Boy.

He looks good and krumpy.

>>53469962
What would you suggest as far as highlighting the red goes? There's not really a lot of great places to do edge highlighting because I tried to keep the metal showing through around the edges.
I guess could try my hand at some glazing to bring up the brightness on the higher areas of the metal plates.

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So, I finished my first box of models ever! Painting took a lot longer than I imagined, but it feels nice to look at the finished result. Hopefully I'll be able to improve in the future.

Also, I only have the mini painting starter set colour wise so I didn't have too many colours to choose from.

>>53470142
>There's not really a lot of great places to do edge highlighting because I tried to keep the metal showing through around the edges.
That's the issue. If this was the intent you didn't take it far enough

Either you have some highlights that are the color of the armor or you play up those worn edges. I feel like you didn't do either in the photos you took.

It's also much easier to make the edges darker and lighter than it is to fuck with raised areas that can't get hit with something like drybrushing

>>53470211
Alright, I'll just hit it with more metal then

>>53470238
Well that's just my opinion. You might want to hold out for another. If I was painting Orks I'd try to go full on fucking hairspray and a metal brush but I've never had to do worn shit before.

>>53470200
the holy trinity of shading is your friend.(nuln oil, Agrax earthshade and reikland fleshshade).

you can shade two different styles, over the whole surface or in the recessed areas.

>>53470200
A huge improvement can be achieved with the usage of washes.

Other than that, keep going. There are certainly worse miniatures out there than yours.

>>53470258
Nah I think you're right. I tried painting the red on over the metal, but it just looks blobbed on there instead of worn, like you said. In the future I'll paint it red first and then "highlight" with metal to hopefully achieve a more worn look.

>>53470260
What would blues be best shaded with? I tried the Nightshade one I got in the starter, but it kinda didn't make much of a difference.

>>53470200
Nice and neat, clean lines, paint doesn't look too thick. Good job. As others have said, a little shading would do wonders for those.

>>53470286
I'd look into tutorials for a proper worn look, but yeah it's ironically a lot harder to paint worn paint on top of metal than it is to paint metal on top of worn paint

>>53470291
blue works with cold colors like blue, green violet.
would recommend using it only in the recessed areas than the whole surface.

it doesn't work well on larger surface since the wash gives a bad texture on just flat areas

>>53470200
Good work, they look unfinished IMO because of the lack of shading. If you now brush some Agrax earthshade or Nuln oil onto the non-flesh parts and it'd look 10xbetter honestly. For the flesh I'd recommend 50% watered down reikland fleshshade and then drybrush over the top with whatever flesh shade you used there. For Marine scouts flesh i do the following.

Base: Bugmans glow
Layer: Cadian flesh
50% watered down reikland fleshshade wash
Drybrush highlight: Kislev Flesh or Flayed one flesh depending on whether I want a more pink or a more pale skintone.

Working on my Blood Bowl team. Right is first guy
finished", left just got hit with Agrax.

Pictures really bring out all the stray splotches of color in the wrong places.

>>53470379
>pictures really bring out all the stray splotches of colour

i'm sure they do, anon!

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>>53470379
Fuck me.

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Going to paint my Dark Angels librarian soon, but I'm not set on which blue range to take yet. Do I go for the typical Macragge Blue set or do I use the darker Kantor Blue set?

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>>53470408
Paints for reference.

>>53470408
Weird, the retards on here said librarians don't have to be blue. Yet the DAngels librarian is...ah yes.

>>53470379
>Pictures really bring out all the stray splotches of color in the wrong places.
Yep

Also

GRAYSCALE TEST

I feel like a lighter armor color or a darker armor color and lighter pants color would really help the model

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>>53470425
Fuck you, 4chanX I still don't understand you

>>53470432
What specifically do you suggest?

>>53468233

This is really good anon, I wouldn't be able to paint something like that.

>>53468858

I'm always scared I'll fuck up my model with varnish and then I would never be able to strip it afterwards. What is the correct way to apply it? Do you have a specific brand you think works best?

>>53470379
Did you thin your paints? Also you need to touch up the one on the right, particularly the silver horns on the head and the gloves.

Nice work though desu.

>>53470419
30k librarians don't have to be blue, I think. But the 40k ones are blue or have blue elements.

Thinking about it, I think a dark pants color would be good.

Something to keep in mind is you want stuff that should stand out to be a brighter color than stuff that should recede or be less noticeable. The armor plating should be the most noticeable since it's being worn on the top layer of the orc. The skin should be a middle color and the pants should be a darker color similar to the shade of the other gray parts of the detail work yet a different hue to set it apart if that's still your intent.

Those pants, especially on the guy on the right aren't important to the overall feel of the model. So if you made those pants a lot darker and the armor a bit lighter I think it would really help.

I find it difficult to explain since I've learned most of the shit instinctively. You need to take hue, saturation, and brightness into account when picking which color should go where and it's not always exact either

>>53470436
>>53470494
Fugg how did that happen

>>53470432
Great scheme, doc.

Newfag here - I'm trying to make white robes.
So far this is my paint list
Base - Rakarth Flesh
Layer - Pallid Wych Flesh, then Flayed One Flesh
Highlights - White Scar
Shading with Nuln
Would this work well? I know that white is supposedly a hard color. I am also colorblind so I don't know if Flayed One Flesh would look really weird over Wych Flesh or something like that.
I've also thought about using greys, but someone suggested to me a while ago to use flesh tones to give it a more cloth-like color.

>>53470544
shade with a thinned blue wash instead, unless you're going for "drab", blue gives a nice bright clothy feel imo

>>53469684
>metal nob

would go killin' an lootin' with yer

>>53470564
Oh, interesting, I hadn't thought of that! Interesting. I might try that on a test robe just to see how it works. It not contrast great with the rest of my army, I'll be using a lot of nuln as the power armor will be metallic a-la IW

>>53470583
It might not*

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Started in march, my first 40k minis
i still dont know how to highlight and my hands are quite shakey
i think they're alright except the faves which just look like trash.
anyone have a good guide on how to make them look like they're not in constant misery? I got the guys here for about 8 euros so i thought id try my hand at some imperial boys

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>>53470622
them from the back

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Working on some soviet tanks. wanted to do a winter weathered paintjob, but i don't know how well it turned out. I'm doing it by hand, how does it look?

from right to left its an IS-1 SU-152 and a T-34

>>53470622
WarhammerTV channel on youtube has some good painting videos.

But looking at your models I can already see some major areas you need to work on.

THIN YOUR PAINTS. One of the reasons your models look bad is because of how thick the paint is. You want a nice thin layer of paint, and it might take 2 or 3 layers before you've got a nice coverage.

Slow down. I can see by the metal barrels on the end of the rifles that you painted over the green before it had dried which is why you have an ugly green tint in your metal.

Slow down. You've rushed it and the models look shit. If I'm painting a model I spend 3 or 4 (sometimes more) hours on it going nice and slow, I use a tiny detail brush on intricate areas. Look at the area where the arms meet the butt of the gun, lots of it has green paint because you weren't careful.


SLOW DOWN and be patient. Let your paint dry.


And finally use a shade wash like Nuln oil or Agrax earthshade to make the creases and detail stand out.


If you do NOTHING else that I just told you, make sure you thin your paints and slow down.

>>53470663
Looks good to me, especially in that scale.

Personally i would have added decals first though.

>>53470432
Second time I've seen you post grayscale test. What does it actually test?

>>53470751
You can paint a model like 6 different colors but if they're all similar brightness it's still going to bleed together. Since a typical model is so small it really helps to vary the brightness of colors in addition to hue to get the different bits to pop out. Otherwise you wind up with something muddied and indistinct.

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The first miniature i ever assembled, do you know if I can just paint over the toothpick head?

>>53470391
>>53470379
you can thin your paint even more.
use your thumb to check the consistency and thickness of your paint every time

>>53470622
>not in constant misery
but they're men of the imperial guard

>>53470622

>>53470692 (You) Samefag here
I'm going to paint my first ever bunch of Cadians soon for Armageddon, I'll walk you through what I'll do.

First thing. THIN YOUR PAINTS. Put your brush in your paint, put paint onto your palette, dip brush in water and mix, dip brush in water again and mix. If it's TOO runny then dip brush in paint again and mix in a little bit of paint to thicken it up. Thin paint dries smoother and doesn't look thick or clumpy.


So.

I'll prime spray with a cream colored spray (I'll use army painter, the name of the spray I've got at home escapes me.) Be patient and let it dry. Same goes for the rest of the painting you'll do today. Paint on undried layers of paint will mix and look bad.


For the fatigues I'll use
Basecoat: Zandri dust.
Drybrush over the top with Flayed one flesh maybe.

For the armor I'll use castellan Green, not sure on what to drybrush over the top with yet. Go to your local games workshop and look for a drybrush paint which is a considerably white shader than what you're currently using.


For the boots I'll use
base: abaddon black
Drybrush: Dawnstone

For the skin I'll use
base: Bugmans glow
Layer: Cadian fleshtone
Layer: 50% watered down Reikland fleshtone
Drybrush highlight: Either Kislev flesh or flayed one flesh depending on skintone I want. Not decided yet. Kislev for a more pinkish tone and Flayed one for a more pale tone.

For metal parts I'll use Lead belcher, and then layer over with runefang steel.


And then I'll cover everything that isn't skin in Nuln oil or agrax earthshade, I paint my heads seperate usually and glue them on after.

And then I'll touch up a few bits. I'll drybrush over the top of any dulled metal (from the wash) with runefang steel.

>>53468221
I can respect the fact that you accept nothing less than perfection, but those look pretty good dude, I would be a little proud of myself.

>>53467470
Has Duncan ever posted on /tg/?

>>53468244
Naw
>>53468233
This looks fantastic. Be proud Anon

>>53470834
How do you do fellow painters?

>>53470842
Thin paints and two thin coats will come to you, but only if you post 'I ACCEPT DUNCAN AS MY SPIRITUAL LIEGE' in this thread.

>>53468244
it really depends what you want to drybrush

>shaky hands
What do i do?

>>53470925
Drink before painting you fucking alcoholic mess of a man.

>>53470925
Learn to paint with your feet

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>>53470925
Remove spoon, replace with brush.
Become slightly more liberal with the light touch of your paints.

>>53470834
Multiple times

Because in a way, we're all Dunc. Once we've watched his videos and learned about thinning our paints we mix a little bit of him into ourselves, thinning our souls.

>>53470925

What's the position of your hands when you're painting?

I put the mini on a cork piece , and hold it with my left hand. I hold the brush with my right hand using the index finger and the thumb, stabilizing it with the third finger. 4th and 5th finger are touching either the cork or my left hand. This way you'll shake less!

Also put your elbows on the table or on your armchair rests. You need to be touching hard surfaces or else your hands will shake because your muscles are trying to make your arms stay still.

>>53470935
>>53470925

I went for a tattoo once at a guys house. Usually I go to the same studio but someone recommended this guy as "really good" and his work looked good.


So he starts tattooing me and says "brb my hands are shaking need my medicine"

Comes back a few minutes later with a 4 pack of Stella Artois. Luckily he was near the end so he only sank one or two before I was completed.


The tattoo turned out kinda shitty btw.

>>53470925
Heres what i do

Exhale slowly and be very VERY gentle and light with your brush on detail areas, two things you do in shooting to steady your aim.

Also get super close to your model, lifting it to your face with one end and brushing with the other.

>>53470925
Attach your mini to something you can grip. I use blue tack to attach the mini's base to an old paint pot.

Keep both elbows on the table and lean in.

Hold the mini close to your face.

Keep both hands together if you can. If you can press both wrists together you add another point of stability.

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Well first time painting. Fucked up a lot and had a lot of redo but I think I learned a lot. Probably not completely done as I need to figure out colors for hilt and the robe in general looks like shit.

Any general advice?

Bottom robe looks pretty shitty in picture but isn't as bad by eye. How would I go about shading or highlighting it so it isn't an ugly solid black?

>>53471013
Did you use a shade wash? The armor looks like but the rest of it doesn't.

Slap a wash on that robe and it'll sink into the recesses. I can see you thinned your paints though, looks great for your first paint.

>>53471013
The only part that needs work imho is the robes. I used this tutorial to learn how to shade them, it's not the best but it's a good start:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spFUntFXohM

>>53471013

How did you do the sword? Amazing work if this is actually the first time you paint something.

>>53471057
Sword to me looks like

Lead belcher
Layer of runefang steel
Nuln oil wash (probably thinned down)


Am I right >>53471013 ?

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>>53467522

Will my Wych-squads finally be able to do something in game? Thats the question Im really looking forward to!

>>53471035

You are correct on shade only armor. I have a pretty limited selection of paints and gave Nuln Oil a shot on a back section of the cape but it looked pretty bad. I am assuming Nuln Oil (or Agrax) wouldn't show up at all on the black robes. Suggestions for something to wash black and red with?

>>53471047

Thanks. This is much clearer than other video I had for shading cloth.

>>53471057
>>53471077

Close. I did not have Leadbelcher when I started.

Abaddon black
Several layers of runefang steel
Nuln Oil wash in what I had expected to be insufficient quantity but not thinned. Was paranoid about it running after I fucked up experimenting on the back of the cape.

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R8 muh zoany

>>53471134

A friendly remainder to NEVER strip the paint from your first model(s). However "bad" they may look they remind you how you started! And this one is 10 times better than what i've started with.

>>53471134
The sword looks great and for a first paint you did really really good.

The cape, I'm not sure to be honest. I'd probably try highlighting or drybrushing with a lighter shape of red, and then washing with a 50% thinned down nuln oil.


The black Robes, I have no idea I'm afraid. I've not had to paint any black yet.

>>53471166
Black robes yet*

>>53471136

>Metallic chitin

Please stop.

>>53471180
No. It makes them look like freaky bugs

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>>53471235
Forgot the picture

>>53471149

I am about to start playing around with drybrushing on another model.

Can you suggest a good option for brush choice? I have tinkered with a few brushes in my small, not really fancy kit but not had much results on a practice model.

Google tells me a lot of people seem to suggest the Citadel small dry brush. Considering picking one up along with Kindleflame and Carroburg Crimson since a blood angel army is what is actually driving me to start painting.


>>53470925
>>53471003

This is what I do to help with my shaky hands. I was considering having a beer or two before doing some detail work in future to see if it helps.

I have not yet figured out or really tried to get the blue tack off of the mini when I am done. How do?

>>53471252
I used kindleflame when drybrushing my blood angels (got it from a Duncan video) and it worked out well.

>>53471136
>>53471238

I actually kind of dig it on the black plates but I feel like it kind of loses its effect when it is literally all over the model.

>>53471252
Exhale slowly to steady your hands, it's what you do when aiming a gun.

>>53471252

I use these: they're not organic brushes (which are the best) but they're cheap and have good ergonomy.

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/search?controller=search&orderby=position&orderway=desc&search_query=brushes&submit_search=

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>>53471266
Well, zoans have quite lot of chitin

>>53471297

They look bretty good. I would have chosen a different colour for the skin though, they kind of blend together too much.

>>53471136
Nice, the wet look reminds me of Alien.

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Just finished a pair of brutes for skirmish, both with some minor greenstuffing and kitbashing going on. What do you think?

>>53471149

In my last reply I mixed up you and >>53471166

Wasn't planning on it! Hope to use it in a Pathfinder game very soon..

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How do you ge these to work?
Washing kills the shine
Varnishing kills the shine

>>53471340

Did you want the skin to be a dark green or is it just the wash? I'd make the skin greener to make it pop a little more.

>>53470391

thanks dorc

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>>53471328
The skin remains what it is, because I don't want too much contrast between tge skin and the chitin. My first attempts at this scheme had even darker skin.

>>53471376
Don't wash or varnish over them?

Either by using that paint at the very last or by masking it when spraying and being careful with the wash application.

>>53471376
For washing, either selectively wash only into recessed areas of the model so as not to kill the shine, or if that's not practical then just relayer some more of the base color over the wash to brighten it back up.

For varnishing, use a gloss varnish.

Guys

Base
Drybrush
Wash

Or
Base
Wash
Drybrush


What do?

>>53471429
Base
Layer
Wash
Drybrush
Wash
Layer

>>53471429
It kind of depends on the model, how much drybrushing you're doing, and how much lighter your drybrushing color is than the base.
Also, drybrushing looks pretty shit most of the time, except on highly textured surfaces, and even then you're better off just getting good at layering and highlighting in the long run.

>>53471456
This is bait right?

I'm figuring for my wolf terminator armour

Spray with army painter wolf grey
Dry brush with stormfang
Drybrush again with longbeard grey

>>53471480
I'll practice my layering, thank you

Wash with nuln oil

>>53471490
I paint the blue armour of my Crimson Fists the following way:

Base
Drybrush
Wash
Light drybrush
Edge highlight

>>53471340
brutes looks so much better without all the armor.
I like the texture you added to the ard boy helmet

>>53471526
Thank you Anon

>>53471490
Don't drybrush marine armour. It always looks shit. If you are dedicated to having bad looking models then at least wash after to mitigate it somewhat.

>>53471490
>Spray with army painter wolf grey
>Dry brush with stormfang
>Drybrush again with longbeard grey
Power armor is a good example of a place where you probably don't want to drybrush, all those flat panels and rounded surfaces are not ideal.
Drybrushing wouldn't look too bad on things like their wolf cloaks or their beards, since those have a lot of texture and detail to catch the drybrushing without ruining the base coat.
For the main armor, I'd say:
>Army painter spray
>Wash with something dark like nuln oil or army painter's dark tone
>Go over all the armor with the original color to brighten it back up after the wash, avoiding recessed areas where the wash has settled
>Edge highlight with something a shade lighter than your base color
>Maybe do one or two more selective edge highlights with an even lighter shade to go that extra mile if you want

>>53471579
Thank you Anon, saved this into a text document. I'll do that.

>>53471618
Sure. Here's the official GW tutorial on Space Wolves as a bonus:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKdzNh1JGE4

>>53468672
looks good! how did you do your bases?

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>>53471390
It's meant to be real dark but it doesn't show too well in the picture because of the lighting. It's washed with red, so it ends up being this grungy browny green colour which I love.

>>53471340

I love the skull mask painted on the right one!
This theme could blend very well with the bonesplitter-tribe theme, if you just wanted some ironjawz to bolster your army!

>>53471538
Tell me about it. I'm making sure everyone in the unit has a different combination of the armour pieces, it's crazy how much of a difference it makes to the silouette of the whole model.
>>53471768
Thanks dude! Each of the five dudes is going to have a different 'theme' I guess. The one with the helmet has a bunch of severed heads, and the one with the facepaint has skulls and bones all over the place. The other three are going to have lizardmen, ogre, and beastman themes as well.

>>53470925
Adderall or Ritalin if you're in the EU
Remember to mix Ritalin with crushed coffee pills and snort it to get an effect more similar to Adderall.
If you do that avoid soda or any acid drinks before as snorting that stuff really fucks with your stomach

>>53470812
thanks senpai, i thought my paints were thin enough but ill thin em even further.
will be more patient to let the paint dry too.

>>53471834
This doesn't sound very save or appealing to do.

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WIP big building for my game club!

>>53471869
Pussy.

>>53471869
It's actually really safe. Worst thing that can happen is stomach ache but that's it.

What paint should i use to highlight gehenna's gold?

>>53471932
Duncan says runefang steel

I used it to highlight only the raise points on mine and it turns out a too "steely" looking imo.

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Is there a noticeable difference applying primers (white/black) via airbrush or regular paintbrush? obviously airbrush is faster but once i put paint on my minis would the outcome look different

>>53471873
>Land my flyer on top.
>No way down
>Commissar is yelling at me to hurry up
>Jump down
>Break legs
>Get eaten by Tyranids

>>53472199
>gain Brosouf

>>53468072
>Tell me a story, Historia
>You repeat yoursel, Ymir

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Can you get plasticard you can mould under high temperatures like resin, or some similar material? I need to do some curved armour plating, layered up like the Vulturax, but on a rather larger scale (all along the top of a 40cm whale).

>>53472194
Doing it by brush there is a chance that the result will be either to thick, uneven or both.

Airbrush (as well as spraycan) usually provide a thinner, more even surface. (Obviously you can use to much paint with them as well and mess up the minis by doing so).

I prime alot with vallejo surface primer by brush during the winter month when i can't go to the balcony to spray with a can, and i never had problems.

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I made this guy a while ago, any feedback/Advice for future models

So, I want to use masking tape in order to paint the camo on tau vehicles. Do I have to use an airbrush or can i use a normal paintbrush and thinned paint?

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Reposting since I ended up at the tail end of the last thread.

Just in in every to be in bad taste for Memorial Day, I present the Cadian Memorial.

>>53472333
thinner paints, especially for the face.

Any airbrush bro here?

My 5 years old compressor have been making a lot of noise lately, is it going to die soon? How can I fix it? I remember it was much quieter before.

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How can I achieve this look?

Balthazar gold with sotek/nihilakh?

Just a quick question about priming.
I just finished priming my Burning of Prospero Models in Chaos Black.
Now, I'm going to paint my Thousand Sons first (which is Mephiston Red).
Would it be possible to prime the models I did in Chaos black in Mephiston Red or should I use the base paint?
Is the base paint and the primer a different thickness/consistency?
Main reason why I primed them in black was because I wanted something darker. If I strictly added the red, I think it would've been brighter, which wasn't something I wanted.

>>53471400
lovely

reminds me of the 3rd edition codex cover art

>>53472689
yep

nihilakh oxide

>>53472689
>Balthazar gold
looks more like one of the bronze-colors, maybe Sycorax

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>>53468505
Thanks anon

>>53470797
rotate and resize, my man.

>>53471136
the HUGE CHUNKS of metallic pigment are really ugly but overall, I like the paint scheme.

>>53471574
Edge highlighting with drybrushing is a perfectly serviceable way to get a tabletop quality mini and if you don't have the patience or skill to do a clean edge highlight, looks better the vast majority of the time than a sloppy and/or too thick edge highlight.

Of course you shouldn't fucking drybrush flat surfaces like you're using a feather duster, but that's not a reason to knock a technique that would make 50% of armies look significantly better. So sick of seeing flat painted marines with a wash (if you're lucky).

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Repostan my Skitarii box from the 40k thread, looking to get it done in time for 8th.

>>53472931
Looking nice. Edge highlight that red maybe?

>>53472925
Have we had this conversation before, DA anon?

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>>53472763
>"B-Brother..."

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>>53470842

>>53467616
>>53467637
>>53467646
I would look towards 1/700 scale battleships first; I think the turrets probably end up around the right size. Only other things off the top of my head I can think of that might work are bits from Battlefleet Gothic ships, but that probably isn't worth it.

If I'm trying to paint a sentinel like an winter AT-ST, should I drybrush the highlights to get a similar look or do extreme edge highlighting?

>>53472985
Nope, and I don't play DA.

I do teach people to paint miniatures, though. Not everybody wants to be a pro painter, I'd rather teach people techniques they're willing to use rather than show up to yet another event match with a bunch of bare plastic and dipped armies.

"Always thin your paints" is great advice.
"Never drybrush space marines" is great advice for people wanting to approach a more professional level of painting, but bad advice for someone who wants to get miniatures on the tabletop that look decent with a formula/techniques that are easy to follow.

Wet blending, NMM, and OSL are all objectively superior to other options, but that doesn't stop people from recommending layering, quality metallic paints, and zenithal highlights.

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Painting some dwarf giants for blood bowl, how's it looking ?

>>53473210
needs a bit of cleanup in some parts plus some highlights! Other way breddy good

>>53473210
Looks quite nice. Good enough that it has me wanting to paint Blood Bowl stuff for the first time ever.

Are the beard highlights done? the braids look really flat towards the bottom where you started getting a little sparser with the highlight.

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>>53473144
forgot the pic

>>53473248
*otherwise

>>53473210
That's a really good start, like srly good start. I hope is not finished.

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How would do paint white like this? As well as the weathering?

>>53473345
The white's just, well, white by the looks of it. Or maybe a very pale off-white. Nothing strange about it.

The small flecks of dark may have been dabbed on with a suitable fine-textured sponge.

>>53471085
not if you leave those fucking mold lines on them like that

>>53473345
Looks like Celestra Grey > Ulthuan Grey > White Scar Glaze.

And then chipping, get a foam craft brush, rip off a little piece, hold it with tweezers, dap rhinox hide lightly on the model, and then leadbelcher dabbed over the rhinox hide even more sparingly.

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Sup /wip/
I'm working on my CSM paint scheme and I really dig this dark blue metallic for the ceramite, but I can't figure out what colour would fit the trims. The silver just looks jarring and drowns put the blue. Suggestions?

>>53473334
I'm so sorry to dissapoint you anon

>>53473770
The silver doesn't look jarring or wash out the blue, it just needs a Nuln Oil wash and some highlights.

>>53468233
>>53468244
I like it a lot, fuck this guy.

>>53469159
What are you....
Oh Fuck, that thumbnail....

I'm sure everyone and their mother has asked this before, but what is the best way to obtain the extra Imperial Knight transfer sheet? I'd kill to run a House Griffith knight. Does anyone have a 1:1 template?

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So I've got pic related showing up soon, and was thinking of painting it with a much darker bronze than the Forgeworld scheme. What colors would you add to make it pop, if it's going to have a more subdued bronze armor? Or will the bright cloak and smaller details suffice?

What's the max limit of replies in a /tg/ thread?

Anyone have a good guide for different shades of ork skin? i wanna vary my boyz up a notch

>>53471136
Overall I really like it, if I ever do tyranids I would go for something similar but less metallic if you don't mind (try and stop me :^) ). But the metallic parts aren't either well mixed or just a weird paint as the pigments look more like glitter than anything. Also shinny+shinny looks unattractive as it lacks contrast, so either make the skin wet and slimy and the chitin satin at most or vice versa. The tail would look better with some blending outro too.
Hope this helps anon!

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Fresh pic of Duncan enforcing his two thin coats policy.

>>53470478
>I'm always scared I'll fuck up my model with varnish and then I would never be able to strip it afterwards. What is the correct way to apply it? Do you have a specific brand you think works best?
I also would be interested to know what people think about varnishes.

I remember reading that gloss varnishes are better at actually protecting paintjobs and that if you want a matte finish you should use gloss varnish and then put matte varnish over it - is this true?

Any other varnishing tips?

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What does wip think of the color schemes for my renegades?

I decided the blue guys could be renegade imperial navy since they all have shotguns as well.

*Please ignore my sub par painting

How do you actually thin your paints? My Citadel paint either is too thick or becomes watery and unable to be applied when I add even the slightest bit of water to it

>>53474786
I'd use a variety of green and brown/sepia washes to go over them.
Depending on how you paint this could vary of course.
If you paint the skin with washes only you can apply them early if you do assembly line layering you can do them last.
Just make sure you got enough contrast in your default skin that it doesn't get washed out after the wash.

If you paint your normal ork skin, then apply a black, a dark green, a brown, a sepia and yellow on some boys you already have five skintones.
If you wash some twice with the same, or twice with two different ones or mix the washes you can get a lot of mileage out of a simple trick like that.

>>53467990
they look good man keep at it! Nice bronze btw.

>>53475119
>What I do

>Dip my brush in paint

>Put on palette

>Dip my brush in water and get a big blob of water on it

>Put on paint i just put in palette and mix together

Then I dry my brush off on some tissue, get a nice TIP on my brush and start applying. If it's too thin I add paint, if it's too thick I add water.

It usually takes 2 - 3 layers before I have something covered. Patience. Thinner the paint the nicer the smoother the dry and the more detail you will be able to see.

>>53475119
the trick is you gotta use a palate

when it gets too watery then you add more paint or you mix it together on your palate better

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A little bit overlighted, but whatever.

Next batch of Ghouls is also ready to get painted

>>53475462
looks great anon

you could probably darken them down with a wash of nuln

>>53468412
Does it look to you like the sail would be even close to being finished?

>>53475498

Thank you!
Like I said ...overlighted. In RL they are a lot darker and the shadows deeper.

When the regiment will be ready I'll do proper pics

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Ayup lads, it's me again. Today’s progress! It’s a Khorgorath from the Age of Sigmar with a Herald of Tzeentch head added, as well as some bits from the Forgefiend, Helbrute and Doomwheel kits. The large chaotic stone is from a Chaos Gargant, and there’s the odd Ork tube, a Talos tentacle and a smashed Necron at the bottom right.
Some pebbles from walking around town and some PVA glue really helped out, with Vallejo Plastic Putty to smoothen out some of the curvature from the added base. The structure paints I’ve used have worked to great effect thus far.

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My first Stormcast
What did I do wrong? What do I do next?

>>53470797
you need to take batter pictures for us to be able to help in any way. Generally this general is quite noob-friendly (mabe bit high tastes), but that's a shite picture.

>>53476042
>What did I do wrong?
Take a better picture and resize it. It is way too blurry and nobody needs 3.85 MB pics.

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>>53474159
I based mine with castellax bronze and then highlighted with sycorax bronze. It turned out a bit brighter than expected but still darker than the one shown on FW.

>>53473345
I'd try to achieve that by painting the figure all white first, finishing the armor areas. Then I'd take a shitty brush, dip it into gray and flick and splatter the paint all over the white figures. Then I'd paint all the rest, carefully avoiding the white plated areas.

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>>53473582

Point out the mold line, and I will exterminate it!

>>53476042

First of, what >>53476430 said.

Second, lay down a wash, just go over it with nuln oil or something, and you will do fine. Hell, even getting the dark quick-dip from the army painter will make wonders happen to this model in about 3 seconds effort.

>>53476042
from what I can see the blue is really flat. Paint the whole thing a darker shade of blue then use the brighter blue colour again but leaving a bit of the darker blue showing around the edges

So I am new to the hobby and I have to buy some tools as well as paints and primer, I have sorted most of the tools I want to get to begin with but I have no clue where or which paints should I get, is there any alternative to citadel spray cans? I was thinking about priming my bugs in blue (light blue I guess better to be able to paint lighter colors on top?) but I'd rather not pay half the order in a primer spray can if possible

>>53476341
Didn't realise quite how shit that came out, sorry anons
>>53476589
I've washed it with Nightshade all over but obviously it needs more in the recesses if it isn't obvious. Thanks that should be quick and easy to improve on
>>53476607
The colour on the panels is Sotek Green (very blue, I disagree with the name) and the lighter blue is Temple Guard Blue. The only other I have access to right now is Calidor Sky but I don't think that would look great, how else would I go about unflattening the panels?

>>53476835
>how else would I go about unflattening the panels?
I think the best thing to do now is to wash them with nightshade, after it's dry go back over them with the original colour but leave it dark all along the outlines

>>53477021
Good idea, I'll give it a shot.

Thanks everyone, I'll be back later or tomorrow with progress pictures. Hopefully with better pictures

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Anyone have any experience with making base textures out of sculpey? Have they turned out any good?

>>53470419
actually, you can paint them whatever you want, but according to fluff, they are blue (at least, the ones who follow the codex astartes)

>>53475952
looks great, but
that gaps on the right leg, and plasma-cannon....
and the moldlines...
please anon, fix that

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>>53476451
Interesting. I was looking at trying to replicate the effect Duncan got with his Sisters of Silence tutorial, as it seems both simple and attractive, pic related.

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>>53472285
Could Worbla be what you need? I don't know how thin it gets and how much detail it can take, but it looks along the lines of what you need.

Generic search term is "thermoplastic sheet", probably.

>>53477552
Are you simple?

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>tfw your lgs uses a picture of one of the models you painted for their online store
WE MADE IT BOYS

How to paint black without it looking shit please?

>>53477794
POST LINK

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First real attempt at doing silver; is there enough shadow and highlight?

I did let some of the runesteel go over the excess nuln on one or two of panels which may have reduced the clarity of the runesteel highlight (where the texture is least smooth)

Thoughts? Areas for improvement?

Phoneposting, so sorry if the picture is massive

>>53478022
https://greenfiregames.mycloveronline.com/
Mine is the Dire Troll Mauler

Im really struggling to thin my paints down, i might be retarded
>thin it too much it flows it a shade
>make it too thick so it covers in just 1 layer
and plwase dont tell me to look for the skimmed milk consistency i tried and its just too fucking thin, it applies like a glaze
>wat do

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>>53477674
Ooh, thanks anon. Doesn't need to be particularly detailed, just need to mould some segmented upper armour on pic related. It'll have some of the Sector Mechanicus walkways on top, so I thought I'd find a way to make them look less out of place. I'll see if I can find out whether that will stick and prime/paint properly, but it looks good.

>>53478071
1:1 medium of paint to Lahmian Medium, you can't go wrong, even on whites

>>53478048
Good stuff anon, looks great from what we can see.

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>>53456162
found and painted the axe.
here is the final product

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Trying to do the Kasrkin paint scheme with Scion models.

I think it looks good so far. The paint looks thick due to the fact that I haven't cleaned up my lines yet; this is about 60% done.

Still to go:
>metal detail
>white detail
>scrollwork detail
>eye lens detail
>shading
>drybrushing
>cleanup and laquer
>grass on base

Usually I post finished models, but this is a WIP thread, so have a look.

>>53477552
It may not have popped into your head yet, but it's not actually assembled yet

>>53478271
>The paint looks thick due to the fact that I haven't cleaned up my lines yet
The paint looks thick because it is thick. Thin your paints.

I remember back in the 80s, nobody thinned their paints.

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>>53478078
>some Sector Mechanicus walkways on top

You absolute mad man, what are you making this for?

>>53478318

You know, I was trying to pre-empt this. You're seeing the result of 3 thin layers and a crap camera. Why do I even bother.

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>>53478649
Ah yes, the good ol' days.

Is there a PDF of Angel Giraldez's mini painting book floating around? I want to start airbrushing but have no idea where to start.

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>>53478686
I read the Leviathan book series, and I thought about something along the lines of a Dreadnought to the Levi's Battlecruiser. Then I came up with the idea of a 30k Mechanicum army of Magos Genetor, who are the mad biologists, with hordes of cloned cannon fodder made from Vamp Counts Ghouls with a couple Nid bitz, and biological monsters instead of Cybernetica robots, and a Magos with his bottom half being the LoTR metal Spider Queen instead of the FW Abeyant and so on. I have a little picture I made of all my silly ideas, and a notebook I scribble them down in. That is actually happening once I finish painting all my 40k Admech and start myself a new job after moving house.

THEN while reading though the Mechanicum Taghmata army book, I noticed they had a box that let them take literally ANY superheavy flyer and some of the Imperial superheavy tanks as a Lord of War if they were "modeled appropriately" and that that included the Sokar Pattern Stormbird, a 50cm long brick of an aircraft bristling with guns and transport capacity and general awesomeness. Then that led me back round to the Leviathan's little brother and I decided to do that.
Now, about four months later, I'm done planning it and have ordered in the first parts.

>>53478696
>3 thin layers
Did you not heed the words of Duncan?

>>53478705
Man, JonTron sure got A E S T H E T I C

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>>53478791
He uses GW, I use Vallejo. Vallejo stuff is a bit runnier than GW, so sometimes you need a third layer for no streaking.

Here's a finished piece, same paint scheme. The white lines are probably the weakest part, but I like the way it turned out.

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>>53478808
Ah fuck, I can't unsee that now.

>>53478781
That sounds brilliant Anon, best of luck with it. Keep us all updated here at the good ship /wip/.

>>53478808
>>53478835
But anon, that IS Jon... or am I having a stroke?

>>53475102
painting aside (kinda shit) the grey/blue dudes look cool color-scheme wise, its balanced and nice to look at. Nurgley dudes need a little more contrast, they're appropriately grimy but need something on the cooler or hotter end of the spectrum as a spot color

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>>53478857
Thanks. It's been through a couple iterations after the first whale model I tried to order wouldn't ship to England, so this one is about 10cm short, which I'll make up with by extending the tail with Stormraven engines and a little smoke trail.

I have a Knight to finish magnetizing first, through. Parts should ship on Tuesday because bank holiday weekend, so I should be able to start before the end of the week.

Pic related is a little slideshow to the ideas I came up with, the alternative to the Whalebird was a Tau Manta counts-as with a set of smaller whale gasbags, but that would have been a spectacular pain in the ass.

>>53478824
The metals aren't great either. Serviceable and definitely worthy of being plonked on a table, but get some washes in there son!

>>53476528
in the first pic it's running down the bare forearm and glove holding the dagger. pretty glaring (at that magnification)

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>>53478824
I like it anon. And kudos for getting rid of those god awful treads and shifting the guns off the side.
This is the last thing I painted - been awhile since I found anything that really got that painting itch going.

>>53475952
tzeentch moonman face on korgorath is 10/10

>>53478927
It IS washed. My camera is garbage; it loves contrast, so metal glitters waaay more than it should, and washes out whites something fierce.

>>53478947
Thanks. I wanted it to be a bit like an MRAP, so I went for the turret. Putting the volley guns on the other side of the turret required me to magnetize it, but besides that it's worked wonderfully.

>>53478981
More like BRAAAAAP

>>53474854
>Duncan "two thin coats or I cut their throats" Rhodes

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The GW store here is closed for two days and I need some magneta for my Lord's cape.
I have a Wazdakka Red and Xerxes purple.
S-should I try mixing?

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>>53478998
>More like BRRRRRRRT
FTFY

Yes, the Punisher cannon is nasty as hell. It'll be even nastier in 8th edition with the twin-linking change. The little beast will put out 28 shots at 2 feet.

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>>53472679
No one?

>>53467470
>thin paint
>it drowns model in color that pools
Wow.

>>53479075
Learn by doing anon. I have faith in you.

>>53479023
>Duncan "Nice tip on yer brush or I'll make you blush" Rhodes

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Trying to canabalize road wheels from a 1/48 jagdpanther kit so that my Wyvern won't be resting on its side armor. Anyone know cheap kits that would have similar size parts? I've heard the m113 in 1/35 is also an option but haven't been able to see one unboxed in person.

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>>53479080
Somebody say BRRRRRRRRRT?

>>53479260
Wheeled Wyvern
I like your ambition, Anon, but that's a hard way to go at it.

I think you might have better luck taking a Taurox, removing the top of the truck bed, and putting the turret there. Then add some wheels like >>53478824 And put the heavy bolter on the cabin turret.

>>53479284
8th Edition is REALLY tempting me to get one of these. I might start by running a Valkyrie as one, and if that works, I'll splurge.

>>53479336
I'm waiting for rules first. I'd like to make sure I'm getting 40 S4 shots at BS4 before I put down my eighty quid.

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Terra Vult

>>53479372
*S5 shots

>>53479318

I should clarify, I still am going to put track on this, it just tickles my autism that as depicted, Imperial tanks apparently have no suspension.

>>53479387
>>53479372
I getcha, anon. Leman Russ Punisher and Exterminator are probably gonna be things to be feared.
>>53479395
AHH, YOU'RE PUTTING IN BOGIES! Suspension bogies, that is. I getcha, anon. But you might be better off with something that's not obviously capped with a rubber tire. Maybe something off a model train kit?

>>53479284
>YOU SEE IVAN, IF ENEMY SHOOT AT YOU, NO NEED TO FEAR BULLET, AS BULLET IS SUCKED INTO FUCKHUEG FAN

>>53479458
The Exterminator looks like it's going to be pretty much a straight upgrade over the regular LRBT.

>Battlecannon
>D6 S8 shots
>Average of 3.5 shots, 1.75 hits at BS3

>Twin Exterminator Autocannon
>8 S7 shots
>Average 4 hits at BS3

>>53479491
>YUO SEE SERGEI, HUGE FAN BEHIND COCKPIT FORCE YOU TO BE BETTER PILOT AND AVOID SHOOTDOWN AS EJECTION CAUSE CERTAIN DEATH

>>53479218
It worked out alright but I think sticking to a same colour instead of risking slightly diffrent hue will work out better for me.
Gotta finish that one with mixed stuff though.

>>53479563
Well, the LRBT has better strength and AP. So it's probably gonna be really close. It'll probably come down to cost on the model level.

But I've always loved the autocannon.

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Despair anon here, what kind of terrain would you say brings the least hope/happiness to you?
Pic not related

>>53479682
Spraypainted styrofoam. It's drab, it's boring, and it's so light that the slightest tap makes it fly everywhere and ruin all the models you've got balanced on it for cover.

>>53479711
I meant like, real life terrain.
Jungles, deserts, russia
I fucking hate styrofoam.

>>53479964
Well it's all dangerous terrain, isn't it?

I guess in a real sense, Russia.

If General Winter doesn't kill you, his two lieutenants Colonel Slush and Major Mud will.

>>53475102
>Mold Lines
>CSM Powerfist
You can get an actual human sized power fist in the scions box btw. And if you're using some shotties go for GSC Neophytes, they got the best shotguns out there atm

>>53478947
AHHH NUUUUU

>>53470846
I ACCEPT DUNCAN AS MY SPIRITUAL LIEGE

>>53470925
stabilise them with your wrists clasped together and held against the table.

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Can someone link me a guide to edge highlighting? Mine looks like shit

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>>53480053
I may or may not have painted him up for just such a game.

>>53480437
Just follow Duncan's light. That's how I am planning to do it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJaW_rQIS_s

>>53480437
Make your highlight lines thinner/narrower

>>53479682
Jungles. I hate humidity, insects, and overly-dense plant matter.

>>53468820
This guy knows what's up.

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What paint scheme would you guys use for Ornstein and Smough? I was in the middle of doing Ornstein and I was not at all happy with it, so I stripped him and am going to start again.

For reference, what I tried was Retributor Armor, Fleshshade Wash, Highlight with Auric Armor. Looked awful imo. I had planned on something similar for Smough but with Earthshade instead, now I'm not so sure.

>>53481556
>Wash
What I do for a bronzy-gold is as follows:
Balthasar Gold
Hasut copper mixed with Auric
Pure auric
Agrax wash
Highlight any edges with stormhost silver

>>53468820
These look great.

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>>53479212
Not too thin, friend.

For painting Celestia grey over chaos black primer, how thin should the white be and how many coats?

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Painting some Tzaangors, trying to useonly washes for the skin. It's experimental, but I think they look ok so far.

Quick someone make a new thread so we can continue to post our stuff