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WIP - Work in Progress - Painting and Modeling General

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Thread replies: 340
Thread images: 101

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Lazy phoneposter edition

Black on gold sub edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo [Embed]
>>
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WIP Plague bearers

What do you guys think?
>>
>>53439193
There's a lot that looks good, the colours, the gore in particular. Be careful with the thickness of your paint though, it looks like you're losing some detail in their faces.
>>
I would really like to do my necrons up as the mephrit dynasty and I'm reading thru the painting guide in White Dwarf 46 and I'm having difficulty translating the paints over the name changes as I'm new.

They say to use Deathworld Forest as a basecoat for the green bits, but GW only sells it as an air paint. Whats the green base coat equivalent? Castellan green? I only have waagh flesh and caliban =(
>>
>>53439193
>>53439276

Seconded, the gore looks good and I particularly like the colours used on the bottom two.

I'd avoid trying to paint on things like fingernails/claws if they're not specifically modelled on, it just doesn't look right.
>>
>>53439281

Google "GW paint conversion chart" and "GW paint highlight chart".

You'll get a list of all the updated names for the paints and a list of base coats + highlight options. As someone who is returning to painting after 10+ years it's incredibly helpful.
>>
>>53439544
thanks
I'm now dismayed to find out the conversion chart lists Deathworld forest as the new paint replacing gretchin green. Guess I'm going thru ebay and hoping the shipping to guam isn't shit
>>
>>53439193
the purple one looks the best, but those eyes need plenty of work on them.
Still, not bad at all!
>>
>>53439632
apparently deathworld forest paint is on the GW webstore, but not in the US what gives?
>>
>>53439718
nvm I'm retarded I found it
>>
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Oh nice, a proper thread.
Repostan from 40K:
So I picked up Valthex, gonna convert him to a DM/CSM dude. Any suggestions on what to add?
inb4 spikes
>>
I had a thought. If i can find the right colours to mix, would it be theoretically possible to make my own bulk Astrogranite by combining some Liquitex or W&N Galeria mixing medium with paint, like Structure Gel for example?
>>
>>53439755

A spiked dildo.

more spikes

rivets

Thin ur paints, bro
>>
>>53439755
I'd say most of it can be done with the paint scheme.
Hazard stripes, ominous glowing for the gun and skull eyes and power coils.

Can't go wrong with a chaos star added somewhere though.
>>
Is there an easy way to strip greenstuff off plastic miniatures?
If chemicals are needed, maybe an austria/germanyfag here, who might know what to use? Would be a lot easier to get for me, I imagine.
>>
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I think I screwed up the reflected light from the plasma gun on this dude. I really don't know what went wrong
>>
>>53440414
from my own experience, almost never put light from a glowing object on a flat surface unless it's ridiculously bright.
Key is to mostly do hard edges where the light catches.

That being said, it doesnt look that bad.
>>
Is there any way I could justify the 30k World Eaters scheme for a 40k chapter?

Fluff-wise, that is. The scheme is beautiful.
>>
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>>53440414
This is a half-hand sculpted head, meant to look like the dude had the top part of his head replaced, but im sad with how messy it turned out

>>53440451
I'm considering redoing that part of the model but I wonder would just catching the edges even be enough to give the effect? Should I use white or blue?
>>
>>53440471
>The scheme is not in use by anyone (as far as i know) so why not
>Mocking chaos
>shit just looks good
>can somehow be tied in with your chapters theme
Or you could just play chaos already

>>53440500
lighting is about sublty, so just doing the edges should be fine.
Remember he is supposedly standing in daylight, so anything glowing on him will only show on the parts that will catch light the most.

As for colour, just try working it up, normal blue at first, then go lighter and lighter until you reached desired effect. possibly white spots on the very hardest edges like rivets and any other pointy bits.

also get some shade on the poor guy.
>>
>>53440569
>also get some shade on the poor guy.
I've tried!!!! I've washed him like 3 times in agrax earthshade.

I swear to god I have no idea how to fucking highlight faces
>>
>>53440582
i dont know if agrax would have been the best here.
Personally i would use reaikland fleshshade for his skin and nuln oil for everything else on him
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Reposting because I have a question:
Does anyone else use Secret Weapon washes? If so, does your final result end up looking so shiny like it does in the recesses?
>>
>>53440631
I don't use sw washes but is that dry or recently applied?
>>
>>53440631
looks like it just hasn't dried because it's pooled quite heavily.
>>
>>53440471
>Is there any way I could justify the 30k World Eaters scheme for a 40k chapter?
yes
because they're your dudes. Just think of how many "gold trim and red armor" dudes there are out there, both as Chaos and nonchaos.

Paint your dudes however you want, and never feel bad about it.
>>
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Hi Wip! Do you like my 90s guiliman for fest?
>>
>>53440837
Err. Is this finished?
>>
>>53440837
Personally never been a fan of piss yellow, but I'll hold my judgement for the final product.
Is the halo supposed to look like that?
>>
>>53439193
Looking pretty good.
Maybe put a light wash over the whole things to tie the colours together.
>>
>>53440837

I like the oldschool yellow rather than gold trim but you really need to clean up a lot of your mistakes. Way too many places where the blue is showing through under the yellow, painting outside the lines etc.
>>
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>>53440837
Needs to be brighter and greener.
>>
>>53439193
The blue one looks off. I can't put my finger on it, but the color is off somehow. Maybe nut putrid and gross enough for nurgle? Kinda looks like a sea creature. I'd stick to reds and greens for pigment.
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>>53441016
>Needs to be brighter and greener.

Praise The Emperor!
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Working on my edgy fuckers

>>53441016
It's beautiful
>>
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>>53439281
>>53439544
This is how I did mine (color scheme on the right):

Weapons

-Basecoat Abaddon Black
-Layer Dawnstone
-Layer White Scar

Green portions

-Basecoat Deathworld Forest
-Wash Coelia Greenshade
-Layer Zemesi Desert

Orange Glow

-Basecoat Jokero Orange
-Glaze Bloodletter
-Layer Trollslayer Orange
-Layer Fire Dragon Bright
-Highlight Lugganath Orange


White on Immortals/lords

-Basecoat Celestra grey
-Layer White Scar
>>
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Here's a Haemonculus conversion I put together last night
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>>53441401
bretty dope
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Which one of you faggot is this?
>>
>>53440837
I'm not sure the yellow makes much sense. The yellow trim was always for the Ultramarine 2nd company, but RG isn't in the 2nd company. He also has so much of it that it's become the dominant colour on the model.
>>
>>53441505
Probably the leddit faggot that asked for his mini to be 'roasted' last thread or the one before that.

Must have been because it's the first time I've read 'roasting' in one of the /wip/ threads.
>>
>>53441716
Roasting is so dumb and should be contained on that reddit place
>>
Im trying to identify the bodyguards in this picture, both the body and the head parts. Any help?
>>
>>53441889
I think the bodies are solar auxilia models, no idea about the heads though.
>>
>>53441889
The gas mask is from the sicarian rustalker kit.
The scarred head is from the Cadian command kit, one of the veterans I think.
>>
>>53441889
One head is a skitarii ruststalker. The other head is a bit from the cadian command squad.

They've been cut off and put into rugby helmet ( or tank crew) style helmets,
>>
>>53441401
Clever!
>>
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Looking to splurge and save up for a real top of the line airbrush.

Not that I'm just going to buy the most expensive model. What suggestions does /wip/ have for the best high-end airbrushes out there, and why? What should I keep an eye out for?
>>
>>53441401
looks aesthetic from my point, good work anon
>>
>>53441016
Oh my fuck
>>
>>53441401
I like it boyo.
>>
>>53441923
>>53441952
>>53441985
Lovely, thanks a lot. Im planning to make a whole army out of conversions.
>>
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working on some melee chosen for upcoming 8th edition! I just hope they'll be viable this time around.
They're slighty converted DV chosen.
>>
>>53442815
get them dudes some 30mm bases
>>
>>53442854
but I still have tons of 25mm base lying around man, I don't wanna lug them around for 2 more editions...
but I agree with you i should. Any comment on the painting otherwise? Anything I should focus on improving?
>>
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What can I do to improve? I'm at this awkward state of mind where half my army is painted but I know I can be doing better and I'm discouraged to keep painting models until I can improve.
>>
>>53442933
Fucking really, dude?
>>
>>53442933
Nuln oil does a lot of good for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUQsiv41Enw
>>
>>53442933
Stop being Australian
>>
>>53442933
I have no clue why this is flipped
>>
>>53442896
drill the barrels

The lenses could get some more love too.
Also the horns of the guy in the middle.

nice conversions though
>>
>>53441016
Christ! Yeh that's appropriately eye-searing
>>
>>53441016
Nostalgia like a kick to the nads.

I want to see more armies painted like this.
>>
>>53442146
Harder & Steenbeck Infinity or Evolution series. ( http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/products.html )
The Infinity is their true high-end series, the Evolution is the mid-range series.
But they're both quite spendy, for both I would recommend their Two-in-One sets, which gives you 2 nozzle and needle sets with a single body.
Which allows you to be more flexible with what you run through them.
>>
>>53442146
As for why I recommend >>53443197 , they're really solid brushes and if you treat them like you should have a life-time of fun with them.
They're easy to disassemble and clean.
And you can buy spare-parts for them.
I own an Evolution Two-in-One, and it's been flawless.
>>
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I don't care if this game is dead, they still made pretty cool minis

Metal is fucking horrible to work with
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Why did GW make finecast suck so much?
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>>53444639
that's poorly assembled rather than poorly cast
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Another night lord
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>>53444674
That's the Halberd that goes with that torso and the other hand is in line with the other arm. I could not physically assemble it any better without clipping off the bottom and trying to use Greenstuff (which I don't have) to fill in the gap
>>
What should my Mechanicus allies so that they go well with my space woofs? A different sbade of blue or orange or something?
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>>53444709
Here's another angle
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>>53444806
What color should I paint them, christ.
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>>53444825
I would go with orange so that you have complementary colors
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>>53444806
>>
>>53444806
Same blue, different secondary colour so they stand out while still feeling like part of the same army.
>>
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Figured this would be the best place to past this since both 40k and AoS guys are in here.

Looking to send my unused Tau to a good home and bring in some more Greenskins. The Models are in varying degrees of paint, some untouched, some primed, and some in the process of being stripped of paint from the previous owner.

Crisis Commander,
Riptide,
20+ Kroot w/ Shaper,
50ish Firewarriors,
6 Devilfish,
2 Piranha,
3 old Broadsides with conversion work
3 Hammerhead/Skyray (1 magnetized/slotted)

Looking to trade for Orks and, models depending, Orruks
>>
>>53441505
Some faggot with shit minis.
>>
>>53445235
your best bet is selling them for a quarter of what you paid for them on eBay. don't get your hopes up that your gonna get a ton from them but they will sell fast if you sell them cheap
>>
>>53444806
Whatever color you like.

They're allies, two armies working together. They don't have to share a scheme.

You wouldn't ask how to paint your Salamanders allies.
>>
>>53444858
So like, go for a sort of hazard theme with em, maybe some hazard strilpes and silver out all the mechanical bits? Also, dark orange or light?
>>
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I'm brand spanking new to modeling. I've never assembled nor painted even a model airplane or car while I was growing up.

But now I've become interested in 40k thanks to the video games. I've decided to start my very first ever project with a Leman Russ Tank.

But I'm having a really big problem whenever I talk to anybody about painting for the first time, or watching any "beginners" guides to painting on YouTube. I'm getting confused about all this talk of primers, basecoats, ink washes, dry brushing, etc etc. I simply want my first tank to be in a "playable" state on the tabletop.

To that end, I'm taking a cue from some real life modern tanks (see pic) that dispense with even using a camouflage pattern in favor of a simple single color. It seems to me like I can get away with just spray-painting my tank a single color (I've spray painted furniture before), and then going back with a paint brush to color all the things a military could not logically paint over (treads, spotlights, and optic lenses for instance). And then I'd just be done with it.

Maybe I would go back later and paint additional details on it like unit designations (letters/numbers), weathering, etc. But for now, is what I described a "legit" way to paint a tank up even if it's flat and boring? Or is there an excruciatingly important detail im missing that's going to leave the tank looking like ass if I don't do it?
>>
>>53445702
>Or is there an excruciatingly important detail im missing that's going to leave the tank looking like ass if I don't do it?

Shading.
>>
>>53445702
>>53445785
and highlights.
mainly those two
>>
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>>53445702
>It seems to me like I can get away with just spray-painting my tank a single color (I've spray painted furniture before), and then going back with a paint brush to color all the things a military could not logically paint over (treads, spotlights, and optic lenses for instance). And then I'd just be done with it.


Works.

To avoid it to look flat, you can either use washes or highlights(or drybrushing). Or both.

Its extremely simple to make a tank look decent actually.

Do you already own some paint?
Get a can of paint in a desired color, for example an olive green. (Army painter does primers in spraycans in various fitting colors, greens, browns and sand color like on your pic).

Then you spray your tank, and then you paint the details like tracks, lenses, guns etc.

After that you apply the decals (they come with the kit, so you don't have to hand-paint the numbers, which you can do ofc if you prefer that look)

After that you apply an overall wash of either agrax earthshade, nuln oil or one of the army painter washes (dark tone or strong tone).

Then you use a dust or earth color to apply a subtle drybrush to the raised edges of the tank to make them stick out.

And thats it.
>>
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>>53445860
>>53445702
You can stop at this point or add some little spots of dark brown or any other dark color to the edges of your tank if you want its paint to look worn. This is called "chipping".
You can also get a pot of texture paint (stirland mud from games workshop for example) to add some dirt to the tracks and the lower parts of the hull where mud would collect.
>>
>>53445860
Thanks. I'll look for some beginners guides to shading/highlighting on YouTube.

Right now I own absolutely nothing that has anything to do with modeling. I'm literally starting from scratch.
>>
>>53445702

I hate to just ape >>53445785 & >>53445847 but they're right. Getting a good, solid, tank paintjob is pretty simple and duncan did a good breakdown of it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=74p9eGwRAog

If you're just looking for a good tabletop standard you can get it done with 3-4 colors and a pot of nuln oil.
>>
>>53445958
Thanks for the link!
>>
>>53445923
Did you already get the Leman Russ?

To assemble it i recommend the following tools:

A cheap side cutter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B00FZPDG1K/

You might find one even cheaper in a hardware store. Don't get the overpriced GW one, it won't cut better, it just looks fancy.

Plastic cement:
either "Tamiya extra thin" or "Revell contacta professional)

A set of diamond files or nail file sticks like
https://www.amazon.com/Makartt-Zebra-Washable-Double-Pieces/dp/B01K725OJW/

Again, you might find cheaper ones than that.

As for your paint, i recommend a can of this:
https://www.amazon.com/The-Army-Painter-CP3005-Primer/dp/B005C3CSAU

Ofc you can get a different color if you like.
The benefit is that its actually a primer, so it sticks a little better to the tank than regular paint.

I was also about to link the duncan video, but >>53445958 was faster.

With that you know basically everything you need to know.
>>
>>53445702
You could look at some of Duncan's videos, especially the early ones go into detail about different things. I think they're a good basic guide for beginners.

Here's a quite recent one on on how to make a weathered vehicle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqApHA3L2Cc&t=0s
>>
>>53446019
Nope not yet. I was literally going to pick one up after work today, take it out of the box and look at it, and from there figure out what I'm going to need from the hobby or hardware store.
>>
>>53446116
Oh and thanks for the suggestions and links!
>>
>>53446116
May i suggest getting this set instead of a single tank:

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Start-Collecting-Astra-Militarum

It will save you some money down the road compared to buying its contents individually.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Imperial-Guard-Leman-Russ-Battle-Tank
>>
>>53446209
>>53446116

I'd suggest buying from TripleHelix if you're in the UK. Start collecting box is only £37
>>
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>>53439755
>>53439813
>>53439821
Alright, bit of an update.
I'd like some input on my ideas thus far!
>>
>>53445235
Why on earth do you have that many unused models? It can't be for painting...
>>
>>53446501
I like the pistol and the sword, since it looks fancy enough to match his backpack. The twin pistols make me think of Cypher.

I think you might benefit from just having one of his hands empty, or having one weapon (maybe a pistol) down at his side rather than both battle ready.

Also go in for the fancier pauldrons.

I like the backpack.
>>
>>53446534
It's pretty typical for tau to be unpainted anon
>>
Any of you plebs good at sculpting?
>>
>>53446209
>>53446387
Alright, thanks!
>>
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second varanguard in progress, mostly just basecoating and washes/glazes, its still a mess.

TFW im in the gray zone of not being bad enough at painting to get advice, or good enough for getting replies.
>>
>>53447032
arm missing because im painting it separately, forgot to mention
>>
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so i gave airbrushing ago, havnt painted since i was 11 (23 now) think it did ok but after taking pictures i need to hit some areas up. alpha legion btw. lemme know what u think
>>
>>53447032
Those lava chaos stars are pretty badass
>>
After I've painted something, how can i keep the paint from being rubbed off just from general handling? And before I do that, how do I get my models as dust-freedom as posaible?
>>
>>53447644
Varnish.
Blow on them.
>>
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painted a snail. based the snail body + shell in white and then painted only with washes and mediums. gloss varnish.

first time trying just washes. ap soft, ap blue tone, ap green, ap red, ap purple, cassandora yellow, coelia greenshade.
>>
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>>53447938
and the back
>>
>>53447032
>TFW im in the gray zone of not being bad enough at painting to get advice, or good enough for getting replies.

If you say so.
>>
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Finished up the blues

Wraithbone wings is next
>>
>>53446501
both arms extended forward just kinda looks weird
>>
>>53447101
Can't tell anything from that picture m8, it's tiny and you can't zoom in
>>
>>53447980
well, having been posting to these threads almost every time, i get a reply about 20% of the time.
>>
>>53447938
He's lovely, anon.
>>
>>53447980
same goes with forums, i can post 10 forum posts spanning a week or two, without getting any visitors, despite the fact i visit everyone elses threads.
>>
>>53447980
Well, compared to most communities, the level people paint at in these threads is very high. If you're getting no replies, it meant you did good.
>>
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Been working on a Renegade Knight for a while, adding bits and touches as I go, would love commentary.
>>
>>53448158
Damn it, fucking mobile posted it sideways
>>
>>53441268

Have you considered using Blood for the Blood God Technical paint for the bloodstains?
>>
>>53448158
looks hecking good anon!
>>
>>53441268
>>53448416
^ Seconded
Less: Painting the roses red.
More: Off with his head.
>>
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Painting this guy from the Dark Vengeance set for a contest at my shop tomorrow. Practicing NMM and blending in general. Jesus Christ it looks bad up close
>>
>>53447101
I don't know if its intentional, but I like the gradient.
>>
>>53448973
yeah it was intentional, was aiming to make it seem like when the sunlight hits their armor it changes color. alpha legion are known to have a strange colored armor :)
>>
>>53449084
Take closer pictures, m8.

They look good.
>>
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Anyone know how to do this kind of white?
>>
>>53449255
looks like light blue basecoat with multiple layers of white on top.
>>
>>53449255
Started with a blue-y grey and then thin coats of white over it leaving some of the grey in the recesses. Also pray to Duncan because painting white sucks
>>
>>53449255
SOme blue for basecoat, the Ulthuan Blue and White for the edges.
>>
>>53449316
>>53449352
>>53449359
Thanks bro's. Also I pray the great Duncan-sama will relieve me from this burden some day.
>>
>>53449255
base white with very very thinned down the fang in the recesses then white scar edge? duncan did that with some eldar for a similar look.
>>
Still working on my white dragon 15mm stuff.
Now have two 6 man fire teams painted and am in the beginning stages of building a sci fi board to play double tap on.
>>
>>53449482
And the other team.
>>
>>53449482
>That at 15mm
Very nice job. I wish that I could paint as well with figures as small.
>>
>>53449482
>15mm stuff
I find it hard enough doing standard figures I can't imagine going smaller. Nice job
>>
>>53439152
New guy here from a previous thread,

did some of the stuff you guys reccomended, how is it looking now? For those who weren't in the previous thread, just asking for some advice on this, only been in the hobby since Feburary, first time painting fine cast.

I also slightly bent the sword on accident, any tips on how to fix or shall I just leave it?
>>
FINALLY.

AFTER OVER A YEAR OF SEARCHING.

I have secured the bits to complete my second Wyvern.

Bought a used one in pieces; the turret was missing. It's taken THIS LONG to find an ebay seller with replacement parts.

Never again am I buying used. NEVER AGAIN.
>>
>>53449541
>>53449548
Cheers chaps.
I still can't get it quite as good as 28mm but I do enjoy sculpting in 15mm much more than 28.
>>
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Thoughts? I'm pretty new and looking to improve. I left the face unpainted 'cause I couldn't quite get it to look right and it's not a big deal from a distance.
>>
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Hi yall,

What is the best base coat for painting metal? I assume brown for copper, maybe gray for anything silver-coloured?
>>
>>53450069
use metal base paints for metal, choose the paints that read "base" in the pot. Leadbelcher for silver, retributor armor for gold etc.
>>
>>53449636
They didn't tell you the turret was missing?
>>
>>53449987
the barrel of the gun seems to suffer from erectile dysfunction

looks good otherwise, the highlights could be sharper and neater, also face lacks definition.
>>
>>53450389
Hmm, I didn't realize those were the base coats. I guess there is something even shinier I am supposed to put on top of them?
>>
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>>53451172
>Hmm, I didn't realize those were the base coats.

They're Citadel's "Base" paints. They are opaque, having a different pigment-to-medium ratio than the "Layer" paints. I think >>53450389 misunderstood your question, though.

Black is a good colour to go under silver/gunmetal, and brown is likewise good for gold or bronze. This is also true of the "Shade" paint you use to wash them with: Nuln OIl (black) goes over the gunmetal bitz, and Agrax Earthshade or Seraphim Sepia (brown or red-brown, depending on what effect you're after) goes over gold and bronze.

>I guess there is something even shinier I am supposed to put on top of them?

Yes, that is also true. There are Layer paints meant to go with the Base paints. Ironbreaker and Runefang Steel (or Stormhost Silver) go with Leadbelcher, and Gehenna's Gold and Auric Armour Gold go with Balthasar Gold. Additionally, an edge highlight of silver (either Runefang or Stormhost) on the highest raised points of the gold make it look really exceptionally shiny.

Citadel's newest metallic paints, meant to quickly and effectively paint the Sigmarite models for Age of Sigmar, are better than the older ones, but they also cost more per ounce. Retributor Armour is your darker - almost bronze - gold base, while Liberator Gold is the brighter, more yellow colour to go with it. Like the older gold colours, an edge of silver makes them look nicer.
>>
In terms of composition, how different are airbrush paints from regular paints?

Vallejo has some really interesting metallics but they're formulated for air brushing, can they be just applied with a brush or would that cause the skies to fall in on me?
>>
>>53449636

In the time you spent looking for that on eBay couldn't you have gotten a job and bought a new wyvern?
>>
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Painting up some cultists for my entry into csm, death guard and emperors children. Trying out purple/green/pink as my base colors, how'd they turn out?
>>
>>53450069
What are those from?

Also......Magneto?
>>
>>53449987
Objectively...not that great anon.
However you've got a good start.
Hard to tell from potato pick but You need to work in reverse on the face, paint it dark then add highlights to create some contour lines and shading.
I would try to cut down on the metallics a bit personally, because with only a couple browns your color scheme is a little garish (unless that is the point, the nevermind).
I'd get some kind of good contrast in there, maybe some drybrush layers to soften him up a bit.
>>
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Dropzone lobsters
>>
>>53451837
Needs some highlights and some not gloss wash.
>>
>>53449550
no way in hell you just started in february, you're too good
>>
Attempt at a lancer from GoW 3. Still need to work on it.
>>
>>53451855
Reaper minis, they are the go-to producer of DnD miniatures.
>>
>>53451855
>Also......Magneto?

What's a Magneto?
>>
Am I the only one who has decided to give up on the Vallejo meme and switch to Citadel? Their paints have never satisfied me and been the cause of many trips through the paint stripper tub. Colors that don't come close to the Citadel equivalent (Why the fuck is Bloody Red a bright orange?). Paints that are too thick, too thin even between multiple same colors. Leaving thick brushstrokes if they are even a little bit too thick or watery marks and edge buildup if they are even a tad too thin, with seemingly no in between. Only the Air Metallics have ever cooperated with me.
>>
>>53452536

My paints go across multiple ranges. I'm fine with citadel, vallejo, p3, army painter its all good. Can't say i've come across that problem tho
>>
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Made a simple kitbash for a new Inquisitor. Watch Master body/weapon, Space Marine Command Squad point finger, and Company Champion helmet and pauldrons.

I'm happy with how it looks, although I'm a little iffy on the helmet.
>>
>>53452799
As you say, swap the helmet, currently he just reads as some kind of space marine. Otherwise looks good.
>>
>>53448158
This looks pretty cool, but something seems off about the colors - I think it needs something dark to offset all the bright pink and purple.

You could add some black, or painting the base a darker might help.

Looks really cool though, nice job.
>>
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>>53448158
>>53453551
The issue is on top, I believe. I'm going to harp on this until it becomes a fucking meme up there with "thin your paints"

Grayscale test. The top of the knight bleeds together. The legs are ok but up top everything gets muddled. See how you can tell the legs have different colors even in black and white while the top bleeds together?

You want to highlight detail as much as possible. GW models usually have plenty of large open areas so there's not usually too much of an issue of detail overload. So you want to do your best to make everything stand out that you can. If you pick a color scheme that is of similar brightness, it will bleed together and look boring even if you're using complementary colors.
>>
How should I break up my Skitarii for priming and painting? Legs apart from torso, and maybe weapons apart from the torso as well?
>>
One final magnetization question, and I'll be done.

Just threw my magnets in, but had a little bit of glue spread on a couple models.
I'm willing to bet that paint wont stick to it, so I'll re-prime them (in retrospect I should have done the priming after anyway, it seems, but live and learn). I don't anticipate it to cause problems, but will the primer mess with the magnets at all? I'm assuming almost imperceptibly lower strength, but figured I'd check first.
>>
>>53445702


Not really advice per se, but the Leman Russ tank is pretty simple to build and paint. Easy to fix mistakes too.
>>
>>53452799
It's just a space marine made from space marine parts wearing space marine armour. It doesn't read as an Inquisitor at all.
>>
>>53453651
Definitely the keep the legs and torso seperate to do the robes. With the arms it depends on if they make it hard to reach chest detail.
>>
>>53450069
Depending on the final look you can start with blue or black for silver as well.
>>
>>53452934
>>53453995
Any suggestions for an alternate helmet? I tried a Tempestus beret head, and it looked too odd. Tempestus helmet would also look very out of place.
>>
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>>53452799
Found a Nazi/Combine helmet from a third party kit I forgot I had. Much less Space Marine, but I feel like it doesn't quite mesh with the aesthetic of the rest of the armor.
>>
>>53454566
it's fine, it has a really inquisitorial look about it
>>
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>tfw your new cutting mat smells like a toxic wastedump
>>
>>53454566
Helmet looks great for an Inquisitor, I feel like the first one kinda feels too grey-knighty.
>>
>>53453647
Thanks for the comment. I never thought about that. Any suggestions?
>>
Guys I'm struggling a bit painting flesh. (scouts)

Currently for skin I use
Base: Bugmans glow
Layer: Cadian flesh
Reikland fleshshade 50% water wash
Drybrush highlight: Kislev Flesh


I'd rather have them a bit bit lighter skinned though. Any recommendations for adjustments?
>>
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The /wip/ curse is real

No one is safe
No wash is safe either
>>
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>>53454601
>>53455151
Thanks, I may stick with that one, then.
>>
>>53455276
I dunno, I came up with my scheme on the fly since I was taught all these color theory garbage a while ago but internalized most of it so I only recognize it instinctively beyond some general guidelines

I'd say find those color theory sites that help you design a color scheme. Then decide what parts should be the most visible and and pop the most and assign them the brightest/lightest colors. Recessed colors are usually darker in real life so don't try to fight that when painting miniatures. The brown-pink on the top of the knight's torso is a sore point in this respect. It would do well to be the same pink as the legs. I think it also helps to vary the color and brightness between connecting segments. Not to the extent it looks patchwork and a mess, but a model with a lot of neat color variation is going to stand out a shitload more than a model largely painted in colors the same hue or brightness.

Naturally there are no hard and fast rules when it comes to this, but remember how models, even knights, are miniatures and need to pop first with subtlety a close second.

I would take a similar color variation with the legs and try to copy that across the majority of the armor. That doesn't mean you can't paint things that color. I think it works well on the section just above the knight's head.
>>
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>>53455378
>The only time you spill your nuln oil it happens twice in one day
>>
>>53455410
Is that a pic of the puddle?
>>
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>>53441268

Needs more lightning
>>
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>>53439152
Pic related my CSM colour scheme.
What colours would you use for horns? If possible give me exact names.
Also what paint would you guys use for pale skin? I want my dudes to look like they barely saw any sun in their lifes.
>>
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Time for some p-p-p-progresssss!

Got 15 Raptors on the line, paint-by-numbers and preshades are done, coming up are some further baselayers.

>>53455378
Unless you'd use dropper bottles. Army Painter Washes are pretty gud. Also nice foot.
>>
>>53455677
Is this bait?
>>
>>53455992
What's supposed to be a bait here? It's one of my first minis I painted and I'm asking for help people that have experience with citadel paints.
>>
>>53456082
thin your paints dude, follow a Duncan video or google how to paint with citadel.
>>
>>53456097
That's what I did for rest of my minis, I just need some colour ideas for the horns now.
>>
>>53454566

way better anon! It looks neat. I'd like to see it painted too!!
>>
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somewhat finished with my blood warriors, though i cant find the axe for one of the guys.
took way longer to paint than I thought
>>
>>53455788
neat!
>>
How would you turn Dryads into demonettes? I have a shit load of wood elf Dryads and I'm thinking of converting them into Chaos Deamonettes. I have some of the old metal skinny demonettes and I don't like the new ones so I was thinking of converting the Dryads into a "war form" of the demonettes. Since they use illusion and pretend to be sexy why not have a spooky form too?
>>
>>53452127
Looks good. Obviously not spot on but a good equivalence using 40K bits.

And it doesn't look odd like the old chain bayonet things from back in 2nd Ed.
>>
>>53455788
That's a really nice color scheme man. Love the orange and green on the weapons
>>
>>53456082
The paint is really thick and clogs the details, yet somehow the gold needs another layer as it isn't covering very well. There is hair mixed into the paint. He colors are spilling onto each other. Also he image is 7 mb and not in focus

The color scheme is the least of your worries. Take more time when painting. It's not a race
>>
>>53456260
And clearly I cannot write "the". Great
>>
>>53456260
This advice is spot on.

Thin your paints and go nice and slow in the delicate areas, also get a nice small detail brush.


I have a super tiny headed one I got off amazon for when I'm doing detailed areas and it works wonders.
>>
>>53441505
Wraith lord faggot?
>>
>>53447032
the trick is to ask a question. it can be scary considering the crowd, but at least asking "what do you think?" is better than just stating your progress, which we can see for ourselves
>>
>>53456260
Well i got rid of hair problem now, I used a really old brush for that guy.
Should I just strip the paint and start over?
>>
>>53456366
I would. for the skin - check out rakarth flesh and pallid wych flesh for that sunless look - for the horns it sorta depends what look you want - ivory, brown, etc etc
>>
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>>53439152
Made a second demigryph for my stirland army
>>
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>>53455677
>>
>>53456162
They look fucking awesome anon, the only thing I have a problem with is the left guys beard, I'd give it another higlight (but it could be just the picture).
But other than that, they look great.
>>
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>>53455677
Too much gold, you spilled it all over his chest plate, it's supposed to only go on some parts, look on pic related for reference.
Also don't use it on all metalic parts like the chain and such, it's just too much gold.

And thin your paints.
>>
>>53455677
Paints too thick. Has no shading or highlighting. Painting is sloppy as hell.. Please for the love of fuck go watch some basic tutorial videos on youtube. You're going to get your asshole munched
>>
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>>53455677
Watch this tutorial for the purple:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nT_EaryRNsM

Watch this for the gold parts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=783slFWP61M

Watch this for the horns:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aq13Mu4IwgY

Your welcome.
>>
>>53456569
It's nice of you to post this anon, but I think he's baiting.
>>
Asked a while ago but got no replies:

Are there any good alcohol based inks out there? I want to wet blend with Vallejo Liquid Metal line but you can't mix non-alcohol based paints with it.

I need some way to get a shiny blue/red metallic without hunting down elusive special metallics.
>>
>>53451784
I have a job. It pays quite well.

I also have an autistic obsession with not wasting plastic.

>>53450415
That's a story of me getting gypped by non-contract deals. The buyer asked for an advance on the money because he was going through a divorce, but when it came time to deliver the parts it turned out the wife had made off with a box that contained the turret (he didn't store the pieces that well). He compensated me with the hull of a Leman Russ Demolisher, which I converted into a Thunderer Siege Tank. In terms of money I made out pretty good, but I still ended up trawling Ebay for the rest of the parts for over a year.
>>
Just a quick question about priming.
I just finished priming my Burning of Prospero Models in Chaos Black.
Now, I'm going to paint my Thousand Sons first (which is Mephiston Red).
Would it be possible to prime the models I did in Chaos black in Mephiston Red or should I use the base paint?
Is the base paint and the primer a different thickness/consistency?
>>
>>53456913
Same guy
Main reason why I primed them in black was because I wanted something darker. If I strictly added the red, I think it would've been brighter, which wasn't something I wanted.
>>
>>53456162
If you're the dude who posted these WIP in the last thread or two they look way better than I thought they would.

Aces either way
>>
>>53455677
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/THIN_YOUR_PAINTS
>>
>>53455677
rozrzedź farby m80
>>
Does anybody have that guide to make sister of battle faces less manly.
>>
Two questions for you, /wip/,

1. I hear that if you order models from any chinaman, you have to first let them soak in water to wash off an chemicals before painting/assembling. Is there anything else to this or no?
2. I'm also planning on painting up some pewter models, but I'm not too certain on how to start. Should I first undercoat with a spraycan, or are there any additional steps?
>>
>>53454566
it could use a bit of ornamentation but it works
>>
>>53440471
Cursed Founding is an M36 justification to have a loyalist legion with hints of traitor geneseed
>>
>>53454566
Love this look, I think it works just fine.
>>
Anyone know which citadel paints I need to paint my Inquisitorial Stormtroopers their original red and black?
>>
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Size scale of new guys
>>
>>53459301
>Scale chart
>On an uneven board

You're fucking retarded
>>
How long do u wait for airbush paints to dry, im using candy paints if that helps. seems like they peel really easily
>>
Lads i bought a set of 5 imperial guardsmen for 8 euros did i do good?
>>
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More work on this baby, mostly just been focusing on the effects, gold parts, the steed, and reds. Black armor is highlighted last.
>>
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>>53459335
>>
>>53459453
>Someone points out you're retarded
>Call it bait

Look at the shadow under the deathguard base but not the left models. The Deathguard isn't that tall compared to prime ass marines
>>
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>>53457383
>Does anybody have that guide to make sister of battle faces less manly.

Yes.
>>
>>53447990
looks good, but I'd drag out gradients a lot, right now the blue looks a bit flat still I think.
>>
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Dreadnought WIP, still need to finish battledamage and a few details
>>
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Having owned th IoB set for Over a year I finally got myself the guts to Paint it, since I know my skills Wont meet my standards.

Anyway, current status of my first model any C&C be appreciated. Not entirely sure how to paint horses and to do the traditional blue style of elf clothes (I tried vallejo Dark Blue but was way to Dark). Also Need to find nuln shade Wash for the armour.

A side of me regrets having decided to start with elves as their painting difficultty seems above average but I love the models
>>
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>>53458760
>1. I hear that if you order models from any chinaman, you have to first let them soak in water to wash off an chemicals before painting/assembling. Is there anything else to this or no?

The chemicals that will be on them is the mold release. This helps the model come out of the mold without sticking to it. It also - if you leave enough residue on there - prevents your paint from adhering to the resin, which is bad. The usual recommendation is to wash them with a mild detergent (Dawn dish soap, or as the Poms call it, "washing-up liquid") and warm water with perhaps the scrubbing of a soft-bristled toothbrush.

>2. I'm also planning on painting up some pewter models, but I'm not too certain on how to start. Should I first undercoat with a spraycan, or are there any additional steps?

If it's an older model with a tab between its feet, you might want to mount it on its slottabase and fill any gaps in the slot with putty before you break out your rattlecan, but even that's not required.
>>
>>53459421
do you paint it fully assembled?
if yes isn't painting those really difficult corners just having a bad time?
>>
>>53459575
>Anyway, current status of my first model any C&C be appreciated.

I agree with your choice of white undercoat, as I think it will help the colours on your horses and Panzees, but for the barding and coats of mail, I would have carefully painted them black before throwing on the Leadbelcher.

>Not entirely sure how to paint horses

I should find a way to add all these horse tutorials we have floating around to the OP... if they're not already there and I just didn't notice.
>>
>>53459622
i usually paint fully assembled, the most hidden crevices i leave more vague and not so defined, not many ppl are gonna look in there anyways. I do take my time though, to make it look as representable as possible from any angle. This one had arm separate so i could paint under it.
>>
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>>53459653
>all these horse tutorials

OK, so that constitutes two. Here's the other one.
>>
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Finished my Interrogator Chaplain and Assault Squad for Guardians of the Covenant 3rd demi-company.
>>
>>53459559
Looks good, Anon. How do you do your battle damage?
>>
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>>53459704
Man I can't wait to paint 2 more drop pods whoo
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>>53459726
Maybe went a bit overkill with the whole blood splatters but I guess that's what would happen with the usage of L-sized warfare chainsaws.
>>
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>>53459653
Its a chainmail, not leadbelcher actually the photos might be a bit too dark.

Yeah, I fucked up for priming some Black and others white but I was experimenting and learned by myself(no FLGS close with ppl to teach me)
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>>53459769
>>
>>53456162
"huh guys have you seen my axe? No? O-okay I guess."

Fantastic work anon.
>>
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Holy fuck this thing is huge
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>>53459708
Thank you! Black with some Mournfang Brown applied with a blister sponge, still need to highlight it with a white pencil....
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>>53459500
Thank you.
>>
>>53459726
>>53459769
>>53459808
They are looking really good mate!
>>
>>53459893
I hope you didn't assemble him yet, and it's just blue-tacked for photo puropose.
Still, this thing will need a lot of gap filling.
>>
>>53459893
WHAT THE FUCK. THEY STARTED TO FINALLY SHIP? WHAT WAVE WERE YOU IN
>>
>>53459704
>>53459726
>>53459769
>>53459808

purpose of white backdrop is to eliminate other things from photo, crop it or move your set up around so nothing else is included. And don't use direct light on miniatures, ever. It cast horrible shadow behind and mess with your colours on miniature.
>>
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Hey /tg/ I wan't to buy pic related but I don't have much experience painting vehicles and I don't really know what I should buy.
I was thinking of buying a black primer and leaving the chassis black and some soviet green for the body work, but I don't know if I should buy some spray paint because this thing is big, or getting some pot paints.
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>>53459893
Those tanks look sweet.
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>>53460120
Get a spray can of green primer from army painter. They sell one intended for ww2 soviet tanks, this will work just fine for the truck.

Either paint everything else black by brush or get black primer for the lower parts of the chassis and leave the kit in parts with the upper part of the body and the lower.

Besides that get some dark brown and black wash.
>>
>>53460099
Buddy I was like the 50th person to get into Wave 1. I was on top of this.
>>
>>53460253
Ugh. I hope they at least condense the time between waves given the delays
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>>53456428
Cute, I'd pet it!
Everything is fine, but you might want to highlight his legs and green armour.
>>
>>53460287
They said they will so you won't be waiting months for yours to ship. Expect it within June
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>>53460315
Wonderful. To be honest I'd be okay with august or even september but the sooner the better obviously
What other neato things did you get?
>>
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>>53445235

WAAC FAGGOT SELLING HIS GREYTIDE NOW THAT THEY WON'T BE BROKEN IN 8TH

P
O
T
T
E
R
Y
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>>53460370
Got the Sledgehammer of course, along with the Blackstar Corsairs, some Paladins, spoopy skellies, Mr and Mrs Bones, Sophie, the weapons packages, and the coral golems
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>>53460669
You get the core or no?
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>>53460685
Na, the add-ons looked much nicer
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>>53455677
Nice job mate! But it looks like you missed some details there. Better fill em up right away, you don't want to look like some trash level painter.
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>>53460669
I like. Where'd you get that?
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>>53460196
I have some black shade, agrax earthsade and mournfang brown left over from my 40k painting days.
I guess I can find some black primer and the green primer you're talking about.
I was thinking about doing something like this, with some muddy/sandy weathering on the underbody
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>>53460724
Shouldn't be to difficult and can be done with spray can since its a single color vehicle.

Head over to /toy/ and look for the scale modeler thread for more advise, some of the guys there are extremely good.
>>
>>53460702
I got a shitload of stuff since I'm a madman
>>53460714
Reaper bones 3 Kickstarter. It JUST started paying out
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>>53460714
The Bones 3 kickstarter that finished a year and a half ago. They partnered with Victoria Miniatures to do it.
>>
>>53459470
Have you not seen the comparison pics on flat surfaces? Primaris Marines are about as tall as the new Plague Marines
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>>53456515
I didn't really know how to do the skull on the knee nor chest. Thanks for advice
>>53456569
This made me realize how many things Duncan actually has, I think i should watch much more before I try again after stripping.
>>53456539
As long as there's actual criticism I don't mind getting roasted.
>>53456404
I thought about using flayed one flesh for the bone and add some wash and now im stripping the paint off. Definitely gonna get the paints you mentioned too.

I think the worst idea was actually using a single old bad brush to paint, now I got a small, hard one for details and a medium, soft one for bigger stuff. Also a bigger one, soft for applying primer. Should I just use spray primer or is imperial primer fine? I saw it in Duncan's vid but I'm not sure because almost everyone mentions sprays.
>>
>>53461085
spray paints are faster and more convenient.
Priming by hand is about the most tedious and boring thing you can do while miniature painting.
For a single mini it's okay, but if you have to prime an entire unit that way you are wasting an hour or more for something you could easily do in a few minutes with a rattlecan.
>>
>>53461160
Thank you, I'll just get one of those sprays after I'm out of imperial primer.
What do you even use technical paints outside of that?
>>
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I am trying to decide on a colour scheme for my chaos spacemarines, they will get mark III helmets, which colour do you think will look better on the robes?
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Did some priming today. Space Marines and Warriors of Chaos
>>
>>53461370
If you're making the armor gold or yellow I'd go with purple since it's Yellow's compliment. It'll have a stronger contrast that will make them more visually interesting.
>>
>>53461370
right fits it better imo
>>
>>53461400
Also I'd make the colors darker or less saturated so they don't look too bright because it could make them look ridiculous, especially if you're making CSM
>>
>>53461400
I was planing on a bronze/brass like colour.
>>
>>53461442
If you're going bronze/brass then I'd make the robes a cool color like the purple you have or maybe something more blue to create a good contrast. That's just what I'd do, but if you want to go for an analogous color scheme red would work well also
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>>53461477
I am new to painting, which is easier to paint purple, blue or red?
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>>53461442
Also the colors you have for the robes are rather bright, you might want to maybe find some less saturated colors or mix some grey into the colors you're using,
>>
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Sometime ago a German anon recommended me PVC Boden Reiniger to remove paint from plastic miniatures.

I finally got it and after 5-ish hours dipped in it the paint shows no changes whatsoever, it's as stuck as it was before.

Am I doing something wrong?
>>
>>53461566
I am still very much at the planing stage, the minis are not even here and I haven't bought any paints jet.
>>
>>53461540
Blue, Purple, and Red are all rather strong colors so they're not too difficult to paint like yellow or white. I've had a little difficulty with the reds I've used but if you use something like Khorne red you shouldn't have too much difficulty. I've never really used too much blues or purples myself. If you are still on the fence you could paint one marine with each color as a test and see what you like. When you find a color you like and then paint over the other colored robes later.
>>
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>>53449482
^^^ Me again.

I did this today.
>>
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>>53461696
>>
>>53461639
Good idea, thanks for your input.
I might even leave them with different coloured robes, in a chaos war band you shouldn't need to be too uniform I think.
>>
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>>53461709
>>
>>53461696
How did you do the weathering effect on the yellow panels? Looks great.

White Dragon Minisa are great, as are many 15mm Sci-Fi Lines. Got tones of Khurasan, Old Crow and others here.
>>
>>53461778
Spray it all silver, Give it a blast of model mates rust red and oil brown sprays on and off for a few coats, then sponge on your top paint colour. Add orange rust and a dark wash to the recesses and weather to your pleasure.
>>
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Hey guys, I've been working on building sisters of battle for a while now. When I posted my first attempt I was told the legs looked like shite, so I've been working on ways to fix that. This is the start of attempt 2.0. I know I still need to fill in some gaps and smooths some stuff out with green stuff, but I just wanted to see if you all thought the concept, in particular the bits I've used for the calves, were a good choice or if i should go back to the drawing board.
>>
>>53461756
No problem, Chaos is a great faction to experiment with colors so don't feel like you should have to make them all uniform unless they're a specific legion like Iron Warriors or something.
>>
Anyone here tried out the Army Painter Warpaints range? I've been looking at them as a cheaper alternative to Citadel stuff (also I prefer the dropper bottles), but I can't find a lot of information about their quality outside of their own marketing materials.
>>
>>53461952
They're good. I use them as a base for alot of things. They can be a bit watery but that's mostly from being settled in the bottle.
>>
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>>53461570
>I finally got it and after 5-ish hours dipped in it the paint shows no changes whatsoever, it's as stuck as it was before.
>Am I doing something wrong?

Did you remove the models from the dip and scrub them with an old toothbrush?
>>
>>53462058
I removed them and tried scratching the paint, but it didn't even scratch.

It's not becoming the paint sludge that it becomes on Simple Green, for example.
>>
>>53461867
mix of greenstuff and milliput?
>>
>>53461867
The pieces seem good to me, but I feel like the squatting pose is a problem, like she's about to seat or take a dump. Do you intend to change that?

Other than that, excellent work, keep oosting your progress.
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Anyone have a link to the Citadel paint guide for the AdMech?

I need to know what paints to use for the rebreather tubes on the Techpriest Dominus' mask.
>>
>>53463346
Duncan's got a good tutorial for Cawl, who uses almost every color you're looking for. Not sure about the tubes though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zN-qL8nPrcE
>>
>>53459962
I've got to try sponging sometime. My marines I'm going to be painting up are metallic and I'm worried doing the usual scrapes on them will look a tad silly. Your darker one should make them look a bit more weathered.
>>
>>53463375
>>53461709
Did all of this scenery with a sponge and my stormcasts too.
>>
>bought some infinity figures basically on a whim, I'd forgotten how much of the pain in the ass metal models are to work with.
>>
How feasible is getting chimera tracks on a leman Russ and it not looking like complete shit?
>>
>>53459421
is my painting technique really that mediocre or am i shunned here, i feel like its totally futile to post here anymore.
>>
>>53463747
Your painting is good, but the fact you crave recognition from random anons is fucking annoying as fuck
If people arent replying telling you to thin your paints do you assume your toy soldier men are painted so badly we despise you?
>>
>>53459421
>>53463747

You should probably just ask for advice or criticism in your post if you want it.

I think it looks great, honestly not much advice i could give, maybe that the paint in the orangey bits looks a bit thick, but that may be the image.
>>
>>53463864
ive been posting here for about a year now and on a good day i get one or two replies, and when im really lucky, one of the replies is in context of the model i posted. Isnt everyone here putting up their paintjobs seeking for attention anyways? I know im an attention whore, since i cant get any attention otherwise, sorry.
>>
>>53463747
Your painting is fine. It's solidly competent.

The issue is that it's not too differetnf rom teh standard colour scheme and not so amazingly well done that it outshines the image we have in our heads of that miniature from GW.

Also finish your bases.
>>
>>53463907
I almost never reply to people unless I can actually offer advice or it's something related to me, like someone painting a unit I have particular interest in
If people don't say anything or you get a couple of replies, try thinking that it might be a good sign in a thread named WIP where people are known for dishing out advice
Your fire is very nice, I wish I could do that, are you satisfied?
>>
>>53463906
thanks, ill try to keep in mind to ask for critique in future. and yeah, it took me a while to get the orange and yellow mix right, too many layers, not much i can do about it anymore without starting over...
>>
>>53463963
gotcha, im aware its the common color scheme, ive just wanted to paint black, red and gold theme for a long time now. Base is unfinished because im broke as fuck, and cant yet afford to buy materials needed for the base.
>>
>>53463980
thats a pretty good point, im pretty drunk at the moment and sad overall, and ive found this theme of me not getting any replies reflect on every forum i post my miniatures too, watching everyone else getting a lot of replies, while me not getting any in week to 3 week span makes me a bit sad, makes me feel like im doing something wrong
>>
So, is this how Necron Compound is supposed to look? The last pot I bought had a semi-solid, jelly-like consistency that crumbled to pieces when I stuck my brush in it (but worked nicely), but that was a couple of years ago. This one is like peanut butter and I bought it two days ago.
>>
>>53464085
isnt it a drybrush paint? not meant to work like other paints, only for drybrushing. I bought a pot too and it has this rough, solid texture to it.
>>
>>53459893
>>53460777
>>53460685

Jesus fucking shit, the quantity of plastic you got for the core $100 is totally fucking bananas.

And that thing is at a scale where $60 is not even a silly amount for a dragon so big you can never use it.
>>
>>53464156
Yeah, but it isn't dry, at all. The old one I had was dry and crumbly, this one is like extra-thick base colour and I'm sort of confused by it.
>>
>>53461867
>>53462832
That looks really good.
I think the squatting appearance is maybe more of an angle thing - she's stepping forwards, right?
>>
>>53464192
... I got the core set, all three expansions, the cannon, the not-space marines, crusaders, dagon, shub-niggurath, titans of the tide, the big dragon, the wurm, the froghemoth, undying lords and I THINK the gal ridin' the dragon
>>
>>53463471
Yup, I will never understand people that claim metal is easier to work with.
I see a lot of complaints about Malifaux kits, but they are nine times easier to work with than damn near any small metal model.
>>
>Bought the SM paint set for $30
>shake and open up the primer
>most of it has dried and clumped up on the sides
>Fairly certain I wasn't able to put enough primer on the SM's

What the fuck did I just buy.
>>
>>53464085
Looks like they accidentally shipped you some actual necrodermis.
>>
Leadbelcher / Army Painter equivalent a good idea to undercoat Skitarii, or should I stick with black?
>>
>>53459893
Thats a pretty nice Thousand Son there.
>>
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Something I'm currently working on rather slowly. Needs a lot of gap filling due to being a dodgy recast.
Once that's all done I can look at making a big engine of the gods for it's back.
>>
>>53464085
>>53464256
Don't worry anon, both the jars of Necron compound I have was a block of rubber straight from GW
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Well today i finnaly finshed a trial concept model for my just started imperal guard-steel legion army, that was inspired from that of the French army of the first world war.
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>>53455677
from far away without her glasses on, my gf say that looks real nice. She likes the purple.
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>>53465312
I really don't mean offense but the blue is too bright, it's too much a pure cartoon blue. Try some Vallejo military colors, they make nice stuff
>>
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Stayed up far too late to paint this zoany
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>>53464085
>So, is this how Necron Compound is supposed to look?

No. The "solid, jelly-like consistency" is what you should see when you open a pot of Dry paint. What you have there looks more like a Layer or Base paint; however, I can clearly see the gold "Dry" insignia on the side of your bottle.
>>
>>53439152
new thread time?
>>
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>>53464770
>Once that's all done I can look at making a big engine of the gods for it's back.

Starting up da shield!
>>
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Starting a Khorne daemon army. Wanted to try volcanic bases for the first time, and really surprised how well they came out (the cracks are even brighter and more defined IRL than in the pic). Only one iffy one out of the ten I did.

>>53464085
Looks like they shipped some necron spunk, anon.
>>
>>53466194
Looks great. How'd you do it?
>>
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Just in in every to be in bad taste for Memorial Day, I present the Cadian Memorial.
>>
>>53466980
Cadia, fuck yeah!
I like that it actually looks like a statue.
>>
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>>53467111
I appreciate the complement. I dont have a good lighting set up so I apologize for the lack of clarity on the statue itself. It's Warplock bronze with 4 coats of nuln oil to darken it deeply. Im considering doing something for a loud hailer, potentially those ones out of the bastion kit since I have some laying around. The idea since Cadia is freshly exploded it's not very weathered, thought Im considering doing the lightest touches of blue oxidation.
>>
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Not painted yet but how does wip feel about my vraks renegades conversions?

I used some beastmen arms for improvised CCW's
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