WIP - Work In Progress General

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>I will never have to paint another chimera again
Feels good.
1/2

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2/2
>inb4 8th rolls out and I'll need 3 more

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>>53241362
First historics I've ever built. thinking of building a diorama around the 2 left archers. The one with his arm back going "Should we leg it?" while the armoured guys move forward ready to intercept a charge.

>>53241362
>>53241374
why the red? seems to throw off the camo feel to it

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working on my Relthoza fleet

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>>53242134

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>>53242176

>>53241276
What does Johnny want to tell me?

>>53242201
Paint your GODDAMN MINIS, ANON.

and don't forget to thin your paints, please

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>>53242185

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>>53242402

>>53242223
Shit, Johnny. I even bought flow-improver

Yeah enough for 20 fucking years apparently.

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>>53242419

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Current WIP, miniature from Kemet.
How do you guys paint skin? I'm glazing all over and it seems to be working bretty good so far but it takes a lot of time.

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Getting back into painting, using kinda crappy brushes at the moment though and I'm finding paint thinning a very, very inconsistent process. Any advice? Here's a mini I've painted recently, it's not one I've poured a ton of attention into, but one I'm trying to learn how to paint with again and be able to do at a decent pace. It's got some poor DIY conversions and it's had the paint stripped twice for what it's worth.

>>53242982
It looks good to me. Now slap some highlights onto that bitch.

>>53242134
I don't know what these are but they look cool.

>>53241362
Congrats anon, I bet it feels good.

>>53242828
Glazing is the way to go but yeah it's not a fast process.

>>53242982
Looks solid, I agree that it could use a very fine top highlight.

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>running low on white primer
>realise I'll have to spend another 10 to 15 quid on another can
>mfw

Can't I just use white paint in a spray gun?

>>53243310
white primer in an airbrush m8

I'm really fuckin indecisive about a basing for nurgle daemons and csm since I got back into painting. I like the mud with toxic pools thing Duncan did. Would they look best with that? I am also curious if anyone knows about any possible basing accessories like thorny vines, mushrooms and carrion flowers to give it a Garden of Nurgle vibe out there or would I need to attempt to make those?

do you have to use gloss and matte varnish for transfers or can you do it without them?

>>53242061
Are those perrys?

>>53243392
>thorny vines
you could try using plant roots for that. should give you the right look
>mushrooms
I made it a habit to have some cork with pieces of wire in it. Everytime I sculpt something I use the excess to maske some mushrooms with the leftovers.
Pretty easy to do. Small nails or pins for spanning canvas work well too for this.
You can also get resin bits for this, but imo you're paying a lot of money for something you can do easily yourself in a few minutes.
>carrion flowers
Not sure what you are thinking about here. But if you have static grass or tufts you can easily make flowers yourself by applying a bit of pva to the tips of the fibres and dunking the tuft into fine turf flock or sand in any color of your choice.
Another alternative, if you were more thinking along the lines of single big flowers, is to look into railroad kits.
You can get plastic flower kits 1:87 for all kinds of stuff.

>>53243477
Yep

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Update on my wolf lord

First time ever working with greenstuff would appreciate feedback on the fur

>>53243606
it does not look like fur.

>>53243606
Whats the model you're using a base, I kind of like it.

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Trying to make these guys, but have it be affordable if possible since nearly all of them are gonna need custom bits. How could I go about converting samurai bits for these guys? I might try to cast my own bits if they go well.

>>53243657
looks like it's the plastic praetor from Betrayal at Calth with some heavy modification

>>53243638
any advice on how to make it look more like fur?
>>53243657
the cataphractii captain from the betrayal at calth set, i think you can buy it separately now, got mine off ebay

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got this guy primed up, will post him painted soon

>>53243699
run a toothbrush through it with wavy patterns

>>53243699
>any advice on how to make it look more like fur?

Nope, I cant tell you how to do it right, I can only tell you it does not look right. I wish you the best in your future endeavors.

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After avoiding it by painting guilliman, cypher, 3 tanks, 2 contemptors, and 3 deathwatch hqs, I've finally run out of procrastination material. Back to the drudgery of infantry.

9 marines are my goal this weekend.

anyone else get really productive when avoiding painting something?

I just put together my Arkanaut Frigate, and after I spray it I think I'll start with painting the brass. What do you guys reckon?

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>>53243685
The Emperor's Shadows looked nothing like that. Hell, they didn't even use katanas. That picture is an abortion.

There are some shoulder pads on shapeways if you're interested. Beyond that I'd check the Legion of Everblight and Skorne sections of Privateer Press' online store.

>>53243811
There's also no fluff or much more than that single picture, so I have the freedom to fluff out a company of them. And I'm going to run them with BT rules, so lots of katanas.

>>53243831
IMO. Don't go full weeb. Weeb-inspired is classy (and less expensive). You don't want to overpower the marine imagery samurai kit, just influence it.

No ideas on bits, though. Some of the white scars upgrades have curved power swords

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TFW a model you want is discontinued and more rare than a GW squat model.

This is suffering.

>>53243831
Less is more, anon-san.

>>53243504
Thank you a ton for the advice! I would have never thought of that about the roots or the mushrooms. For the flowers I mucked up shoulda typed carnivorous instead of carrion but I had thoughts about the corpse flower and the like. I'll definitely look into some of these supplies for basing. Is there a specific texture paint you might recommend as well for that sort of ground?

>>53243883
Most I was really trying to go were katanas for melee, banners for sgts, and anything important got an oni mask and maybe a green stuff kimono. Not sure how I'd flavor up dreads, first thought was to paint them kind of like terracotta soldiers. Not sure what I was gonna do for shoulder pads, I don't really wanna green stuff them on cause It'll look bad.

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Need to do the weapons on my Aspiring Champion proxy for my killteam.

My question is about the powersword. The Dunc has a video about "simple" power sword glow where he uses Nihalak oxide and some blue glaze to get a decent effect.
Could I substitute a green (waywatcher) or red (bloodletter) glaze instead of the blue and have decent results?

Or should I attempt that badass asymetrical checkering pattern thing I've seen people do for swords? I'm not sure if I have good colors for the sword

>>53243954
>green stuff kimono

Do you understand you're taking someone else's custom chapter and weebing it up? Look at that picture above. No katana, no Japanese banner, and the only oni mask is on a Chaplain.

The key words in the description are "subtly incorporated".

If you want to crank the Oriental theme up to eleven then make your own chapter or base it off a Mortal Kombat ninja.

>>53243954
I was going to suggest green stuff for the shoulder pads too. How about some plasticard 4 strips one a millimeter (guessing on the size obviously) longer than the other and stack them up so it'll line up like the pic in >>53243685

>>53243685
>since nearly all of them are gonna need custom bits
victoria lamb, who originally came up with them only added tiny bits of GS to the shoulderpads and painted everything else on.

Anyway, if you WANT to add custom bits there are shitloads of samurai bits around. Puppetswar has a pretty comprehensive selection.
Shapeways user plokoone recently added shoulderpads for them to his store.

>>53243699
Maybe add more "flow" into it? Now it looks kinda like puddle of mess imo. Look how fur looks in other minis to give a good idea how to do it.

>>53243954
Just thought of something that'll be a bit more easier for you. Instead of making the Kimono out completely out of green stuff, how about you get your hands on Dark Angels that have those robes on and start from there?

>>53244064
You realize its a chapter that is official, has no lore, and only has a section in a painting guide right? 40k is a parody of culture. Go somewhere else if you wanna be offended about how I build my dudes. Not trying to be a fucking weeaboo, but 40k's over the top ridiculous. Check out the buck teeth on White Scars.

>>53244069
>>53244118

Thanks for the ideas, I've got a few of the robed models from DV sitting in a box I'll probably try this with.

>>53244118
Was about to suggest this aswell. Then you can make robes how ever weeb you want to.

>>53243933
>For the flowers I mucked up shoulda typed carnivorous instead of carrion but I had thoughts about the corpse flower and the like.
In that case check out the catachan heavy weapons sprue. There is a venus fly trap on that sprue.
>Is there a specific texture paint you might recommend as well for that sort of ground?
I never used textured paint myself. I still use sand and pva. But I've been eyeing the Vallejo paints. You get quite a bit more for a better price than the GW stuff.
You'll get an even better deal if you just go to any art supply store and get a texture medium or pumice or whatever the specific product may be called.

>>53242176
i know this is for a different game...but this kind of looks like if 40k orks just had a shit ton of scrap metal and welded it together into a space ship.

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>>53244141
Don't forget your ceramite geta, anon-san.

>>53244141
>Check out the buck teeth on White Scars.
you're delusional.
you also got the wrong racist stereotype. White Scars are painfully obvious mongolian.

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>>53244198
u want pray game anon?

>>53241362
>>53241374
Anon here who griped at you thick paint when you were half done with this project eons ago.

As an advocate of redo's over adding more shit till it looks good, you certainly proved me wrong. I especially like the mud and slush you have pent up around the tracking and armor folds. Great job.

>>53244064
>no japanese banner
take another look at it?

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>>53241276
I know you guys mostly post figures but I wanted to share first terrain.

I tried to use static grass, but wasn't exactly sure how to apply is as most youtube pros use some kind of strainer for it. In the end I think that looks good enough without it.

What are some valid materials for bases that won't hurt my budget? I tried thick and sturdy cardboard but it curls a little after applying PVA and paint (which I hped won't happen as it could be compared tohardest book covers).

I read some of you use MDF boards but I think it may be a little expensive to base every piece with that? I'm also not sure how to work with it using modeling tools, doesn't it require some kind of saw to cut it? I mean, I doubt hobby knife is enough.

>>53244381
his head looks goofily huge

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>>53244393
ah I just deleted because pic posted sideways but I checked with back button.

hmmmm, the head is the same size as the chaos marine heads with no helmet, might be the horns? or maybe it looked weird because sideways?

>>53244434
oh yeah and as I said before pls give ideas for bling to add to this guy

>>53244388
Go on youtube, look up the Terrain Tutor, watch his Back to Basics playlist, as well as the 'Common Terrain Questions Answered' video. All of your queries will be answered in full, with practical demonstrations and much more besides. Your terrain looks okay, could do with darker shading and some flock to blend the moss in.

>>53244445
He looks pretty blinged out already

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>>53244456
*unzips the murder sword*

>>53244064
>>53243811
Nice gatekeeping faggot

>>53244542
to be fair kimono marines are a retarded premise

but then I remember dark angels wear pajamas and space wolves wear wolves when they're not riding them or in santa's sleigh pulled by them

>>53244542
>gatekeeping

>>53244434
loincloth?

put some sickass runes on the wings and make them the centerpiece

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>>53243811
Not really katanas but closer than your average power sword. From anvil industry

>>53244569
In a game with werewolf men, orks that are literal sentient plant life, and space magic bullets, kimonos on captains is going too far.

>>53244597
Now those aren't too bad, I could work with those.

>>53244599
look man I'm not in charge of what is or isn't retarded, I just call it when I see it

also those aren't even good examples of retarded shit in 40k, there's literally nothing wrong with sentient plant life or magic projectiles in a fictional world. actually good examples have already been listed like dark angel pajamas, but dark angels pajamas being retarded doesn't make kimono marines less retarded

>>53244622
Aren't you late to the 40k thread to debate what is and isn't canon in the 40k universe?

>>53244589
yeah loincloth would probably do it, I'm gonna test using the one from the dark angel sergeant from dark vengeance, gotta carve it up somehow. a mail one could be nice but I only have the CSM champion one which I'm already using and I don't want to have repeat bits on my characters.

>>53244645
no because I'm not a retarded shitposter, I'm just some dude giving feedback. I don't know if you're the kimono marines guy but he posted his idea ITT and thus opened the idea to criticism, multiple people have given feedback saying kimonos are dumb. what he/you does/do with that advice is up to him/you, but not all feedback is going suck your dick, there are other websites for that

the emperor's shadows are overall a cool chapter, I just think the kimono is too much. using subtle samurai masks and katana power swords is fine though. in my opinion.

>>53243685
weebfag

>all this kimono talk

Wish I made enough progress on the weeaborks to warrant a new picture, well maybe if I get the sashimonos printed out

>>53244651
I think you can get chainmail loincloth as separate bits from either maxmini or spellcrow.
Or one of the other usual suspects, but there are other options.

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I could use a bit of help on how to apply this core scheme, so far my buggies mainly have blue hulls which will feature red bolts, flames and arrow, but I don't think it's work that well on such a large model without it just becoming a blue blob.

>>53244020
Aside from the obvious mold line, your highlights are really jarring.

Also, paint your sword silver with lightning arcing through it.

>>53244764
meh, this guy is mostly made from leftover bits and I want to keep it that way, plus I want to finish him by tomorrow

also the runes on wings idea is good, now to figure out how to do the colors. the fleshy parts will be red so I'm thinking some very dark blue to emulate the look of tattoo ink

>>53244836
if you got the chaos lord plastic kit it comes with some pretty long loincloths. Chains and regular cloth.
Those might look cool on a dude flying through the air.

>>53244666
Not kimono guy. I also think kimonos are bit overkill on aesthetic, but entirely up to you. If you want to give kimonos go ahead. Its your guys.

>>53243685
https://whatarmy.wordpress.com/2012/01/04/samurai-themed-space-marines-pt-1-furinkazan/

Quick googling "samurai space marines" came up with this. Thought youd might enjoy it.

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Getting into my Red Veil box, any ideas for colour on the clothing?
I'm not super happy with my blending and layering, despite using a wet pallete, I think I might have gone too thick on the final layers, any tips to neaten that up?

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>>53244768
Keep to the odd plating being Blue, most metal/rusty metal, with the flames covering both, going about a third of the way back. These are mine, I'm a fan of darker base colors for Orks though, so YMMV.

>>53243606
i actually thought that looked pretty good as fur.

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>>53243704
And nearly done

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I'm a little self-conscious about my Iron Warriors scheme. Both the steel and the trim are a basecoat, wash and drybrushed highlight, with the steel base being an airbrushed mixture of leadbelcher and nuln oil (the original formula of Black Ink and Boltgun Metal worked better) for a dark titanium finish.

I'm worried they look like they've just been slapped with leadbelcher and a bronze/brass layer and called a day and that I'm getting mediocre results from a fair amount of effort.

>>53243685
>>53243811
Pretty sure Victoria herself now does Samurai themed Marine heads and pauldrons.

>>53245446
Mould lines reeeeee
Also, maybe touch up the horns a bit? They do look kinda dull

jesus christ gluing crisis suits together is a pain in the ass. Does anyone have any tips on how to pose these things

>>53245509
Dammit, yes I should have mentioned the horns are a flat grey while I decide what the fuck to do with them and if I'm actually happy with the metals.

The mold lines are slowly being cleaned up and painted over. My marines are a mixture of assemblies from 10+ years with some GOD AWFUL misaligned castings. I cleaned up his head, legs and horns as best I could but somehow overlooked the power pack.

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Found some old paints. All dried out. Can I save them? Is it even worth trying?

>>53243905
why is she smelling her fingers after slooshing them around her cunt

>>53244434
>>53244445
add a chain to show that he's in-motion, giving more of a dynamic feel to the model

>>53245558
You can revive it by putting some water in them and stirring them with a latté miniwhip thing. But if you have the cash to replace them then no, it's not worth it in the least.

>>53245544
On the arms too, don't forget them.

>>53245558
Add water, I guess? Or maybe some acrylic medium.

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>>53244709

fuck it, weeabork update

we have sashimonos now thanks to some guy in the drawfag thread and a printing place a block away,

just need to choose which size each type of boy will get

also I think I'll start painting some of em, just need to get some white primer

>>53245558
Depends on how fucked they are. If they're completely dry they're pretty much fucked. If there's thick pigment sludge in the bottom, a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water can salvage them. Add a fair amount to begin with and shake firmly, keep shaking and adding your DIY thinner over 24 hours before you try and use them and you'll know if you've saved them.

Generally speaking new paints will always be better, but I've bought pots straight off a GW shelf that turned out to be 5 years old and on their way to expiring, so you can't trust 'new' either.

>>53245593
>On the arms too
That one's a lost cause, the mold was so badly aligned I was shaving the arm flat and the line was laughing at me from a valley.

>>53243606
what you want to do is use super pointy scissors and snip-pinch at the stuff from bottom to the top, this should give an effect of strands of fur that can be very flat or very 3d depending on how you like them

>>53245622
Well, okay. If they're 10+ years old and already painted you won't get a new model either, so that is that. It just looks rather prominent on the arm.

>>53245647
I'll have another crack at the little cunt and see what I can do.

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>>53238132

Better or worse?

I know, I know, I'm awful at layering.

>>53245745
Why is he carrying a squeegie mop?

>>53245759
Why wouldn't he, you see all the blood right?

>>53245558
If I were you I'd make an effort to save those paints. Those foundation paints had beastly cover, the red and yellow covers white or black primer in one coat. I will mourn they day my final pot of Khemri Brown is spent.

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Reposting, because I wanna get as much feedback as possible before I varnish him

>>53244020
>Or should I attempt that badass asymetrical checkering pattern thing I've seen people do for swords? I'm not sure if I have good colors for the sword

anon, by your painting standards you should totaly go for this much more complicated approach.

>>53245759
Now all I can think of is Viscera Cleanup Detail

>>53245983
The base could use something, other than that it looks very nice and stylized. The holes in the robe should be brown though, i think, not black.

>>53245558
I would at least be prepared to buy new paints. If they're completely hard, you're screwed. If they're sludge, you could maybe pick up a bottle of liquid matte medium from an art supply store and re-suspend the pigments, but it's not really guaranteed to work like they did before. Note: water is NOT a medium for acrylic; it is a solvent. Adding water will merely thin any existing medium to the point where the paint will break and become useless for painting.

>>53245983
looks good!
I'd add some red details to the eye on the shoulder or on the knee. this might help to loosen up the green/brass.

>>53246054
Thanks, I'll be adding small patches of flock to the base after applying the varnish. And the holes are near-black from a ton of agrax.

>>53246127
Thank you! Really good idea, I'll think about making the eye a gem, or something like that.

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>>53244064
>base it off a Mortal Kombat ninja.

A what now?

>>53245983
>>53246190
Exactly, I was thinking of red gems. What always looks good is some small freehand of the legion/warband/god symbol on tabards. or simply some lines and a small chaos star, but that depends on how fine you brush tip is and how steady your hand is.

>>53245558
DON'T ADD WATER. It just doesn't fucking work.

Use a spirit, Acrylic Medium especially.
Water won't just mix with the dry medium.
A spirit will dissolve the pigment and turn it back into decent paint.
You can get a $3 pot of Acrylic Medium and restore those $50 worth of paints.

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Does this look any good? I may have accidentally posted it onto the /40k/ thread, I think this place is more appropriate.
The top is from a cataphractii terminator, and the bottom is from a stormcast eternal.

>>53246464
Pls be bait.... pleaseeeeeeeeeee

>>53245558
>>53246408
Water+isopropyl alcohol is DIY acrylic thinners. Use that to break up the pigment first, then add Acrylic Medium (it should be weird thick gel-like shit that you won't believe will actually help) to get it back acting like paint again.

Sometimes they're too far gone to salvage though. I've got a putty-like blob of Golden Yellow floating in pure alcohol that just refuses to dissolve. I also have a pot of Chaos Black that was only kind of sludgy and returned to normal consistency like you'd expect, but was still a chunky mess when you actually applied it with a brush.

>>53242123
When painting models it more important to be artistically pleasing than to be realistic.
You can add realistic effects that look artistically pleasing, like pigments and weathering paints, but to paint a model the sole purpose of being realistic without directly copying a real world scheme is impratical.
The red and white is meant to break up the blue camo, if it was there itd be harder to look at, which is what you want ideally in a camo, but not on the table.
Im not saying my camo is god damn amazing 95% camo index tier, but Id rather have it look nice than realistic.

>>53243704
>>53245321
Asked in the General and asking here, what are you using for the guy's torso? It looks like a really snazzy way to make Meganobs.

Fucked up my hand and got a free week off from work whats a good way to paint one handed?

>>53245983
Left foot and thigh looks like they have trimming thats unpainted.
Personally I'd pick out the eyeball and skulls on the brasswork in a different colour to make them less samey, red and steel/bone respectively.

>>53245084
Thanks for the idea, I might do that, though the russ (and my looted basilisk) don't really have plate "zones" as much as ork vehicles do.

Normally I also prefer a dark and desaturated tones, but I figure Orks are a good place to change things up.
And it is going to be mainly dark but with bold blue and red flames to contrast and liven shit up.

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>>53246542

>>53246693
>Fucked up my hand and got a free week off from work whats a good way to paint one handed?

Let me check with Michael Perry, and I'll get back to you.

>>53246986
Could you please mark what you mean in Paint, or something like that? Can't tell what you're talking about.

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Doing my ork kill team tonight

>>53245745
paint looks wayyyy too thick. It's covering up the details.

>>53243685
puppetswar has shoulderpads, katanas, and banners of the samurai theme, maxmini has samurai heads

>>53247809
Oh puppetswar has heads too, and some guard size stuff. Outside of searching bushi, katana, and samurai, there might be more hidden throughout their site.

>>53245321
That looks pretty good man.Personally the red seems a little to dark,but that's just what I think.Great job.

>>53247295
Normally id shoop you a example but i'm phoneposting.

If the thread is still alive in an hour I'll give it a go.

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Advancing on IG regiment with a captain. He's seen some shit.

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An Acolyte for my SW:A Inquisitor's warband.
I'm not a great painter but I'm gradually improving. I love kit-bashing more than anything else in the process of making the models.

>>53245446
God damn, compared to mine your paintjob (while not bad) is mediocre, while I fail at hazard stripes on infantry!

How do you do it?

>>53247628
I can tell you that the paint couldn't be any thinner without being turned into water. The lack of details on his arms is pretty much due to my incompetence regarding layering. Besides that there aren't too many details on the mini as the armour is consciously plain as it is meant to represent hastily crafted armour by a less than well talented blacksmith.


The colour of the flesh looks not at all fleshy so I would highly appreciate any pointers on how to improve it, with like a wash or some beginner's strokes.

>>53246685
The dakkajet engine has an optional section to make it longer, which is like a ring made of two half-moon shaped bits. I glues one of these sides onto the back of a regular nob

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>>53245983
>>53247295

Gonna be working with some model masters pearl colors today I'll post the results later. After I finish some bloodbowl chaos dwarves.

>>53246464
Not particularly, normally I'm not one to say a type of kitbash like that is bad (hell I have some marines on bloodcrushers that use the bloodcrusher legs) the problem is that these two are not the same scale, the legs of the sigmarine makes the terminator torso look too bulky like they are wearing armor over their armor, it doesn't fit not because of an astetic choice but because they just appear to be a different scale.

>>53249470
Thanks anon, i'll have to scour ebay clean of those things some time.

>>53248999
A nice solid base of Averland Sunset.
Thin coat of a fucked-in-the-ass Tamiya Lemon Yellow for brightness and a shitty "painted over rust" texture.
Wash of Agrax Earthshade to shade everything, which especially picks out the texture of the lemon yellow.
Mask off with Tamiya 2mm flexible tape. This is a bitch of a job, you need to keep working it into the gaps and massaging it down before it really takes shape and bonds to the surface.
Give the masking another solid rub down with the back edge of your hobby knife to smooth down any lifted edges right before you paint the black.
Stripes are Tamiya semigloss black.
Give the whole thing another wash of Agrax to blend everything and put a slightly more matte finish on the black. The final result is similar to satin black, except satin black paint is a cunt to work with and semigloss with a matte wash is much, much easier.

Post some pics of your own work, and I'd really appreciate input on how you'd make my IW less mediocre.

Hey folks, looking to start a cadian army come the new edition but I hate the standard GW sculpts and can't paint faces. I was planning on using the Forge World respirator upgrade, so I wouldn't have to do faces and could use those sweet backpacks to make it look like they'd been on campaign for a while. My only worry is the hands, if I were to paint them brown would they look like heavy leather gloves instead or are they too flesh-like on the normal cadian kits to be able to be disguised like this? Basically I want to do the hostile environment cadians with the normal campaign backpacks without spending a fortune.

>>53250098
I paint my IG dudes hands red and say they are red leather gloves. Not a single fuck is given.

>>53243606
cut around the neck joint is messy

>>53250098
>Basically I want to do the hostile environment cadians with the normal campaign backpacks without spending a fortune.

The command squad kit comes with respirators that hide most of the face as well as face with eypatches and glasses.
I know it's more expensive than the standard squad, but it's a possibility. Barely anyone uses these respirators, if you have friends around your FLGS that play IG they're bound to have a lot of spare.

>>53246464
i think acetone is the only solution here...

>>53250098
>can't paint faces
I don't paint the eyes, and for the rest of the face I just follow Duncan's cadian tutorial and it looks great, I suggest getting some push fit cadians to train on, it's easy and you'll get better at it the more you do it.

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How do you feel about having names painted on bases? I'm thinking about doing so for 1) every character in my chaos army, ICs and sergeants etc. and 2) my Chosen.

Also trying to think up something interesting like painting a little freehand scroll on the base rim for the name to be written on, or unique fonts. Anybody got any cool ideas?

>>53250098
Just thought of another problem: How do you glue resin to plastic? The upgrade kits are resin and the normal guardsmen are plastic. Which glue works best?

>>53251854
superglue is your friend, works best on resin, but works fine on plastic too.

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>>53251881
Thank you!

>>53251700
I do this on any guy i have made fluff for, so mostly sergeants, characters and models that have done amazing acts in-game.
It's great fun.

I don't know about the scroll thing, but playing around with font is a good idea, gives alot of characters. I do all my names in roman looking letters.

>>53252013
You're welcome Anon.

>>53251854
resin is a cunt to get a good bond and depending on size I would pin it, with super glue of course. I even pinned my resin space marine arms to the torsos because this shit is very prone to breaking apart in your gaming case.

>show up with an army of old school resin thousand sons
>open gaming case
>half the dudes' arms fell off

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Making a Star Wars Imperial hover tank, based on the ol' TX-130 design. Was wondering if anyone had ideas or suggestions on extra details? Otherwise I'll be polishing up the greenstuff and painting her. Blurry 30mm Stormie medic for scale.

>>53244768
I'd do the "bottom layer" of hull in a medium blue, with flame effects on the Leman's original side hull. Then do the tacked-on plates in a mishmash of blue shades, bare/rusted metal, and (sparingly) completely different colors.

A neat effect would be to paint the flames going under a couple of the patch plates. Like some snazzy mek put the sweet flames on it, then some git came along later and slapped an ugly patch plate on top.

Ahhhhhhh fucking boils take so long. Got to highlight them next, but fuck it I'm done for this evening.

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>>53252902
Whoops, no image.

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So, I just bought some Cataphractii Terminators off ebay. Unfortunately, there's some greenstuff on them that I don't want there. How would one go about removing greenstuff from unpainted miniatures? Is there an easy way, or do I need files or chemicals?

>>53252924
>technicolor rainbow Plaguebearers
Oh my god that is THE BEST

>>53252924
pretty grand stuff

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>Was going to start a new marine army for 8th
>NuMarines put me off of it, don't want my models to look obsolete in five years
>Going guard instead
>Still feel bad for what might have been

Anyone know how the bloodreaver arms compare to space marine chest pieces?

I'm considering using them but want to know if the scale would be off.

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Hey, /wip/. I'm finally gonna set up a proper station, and I'm looking for both a rack and a desk lamp.
Has anyone had any experience with back2base-ix? I really like their acrylic racks but i'm always skeptical of smaller sites like this.

So, project I am wanting to start will be converting an arachnorok spider into either a dark eldar ravager or raider, any thoughts?

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Please tg, help me salvage that shit

>>53254140
>all those brush marks
Gyaahh, the fuck happened?!

>>53245074
Use a glaze like the guilliman blue from gw, or make your own. It blends the golors together nicely

>>53252924
Your style is still great, very interesting and it's always good to see 'clean' Nurglite paintjobs, if that makes sense.

I'd love to see you paint some of the older Plaguebearer sculpts as I think they'd look fantastic done up in this style and it could help break up your Plaguebearers and make them a little more Chaotic.

You got any more conversions planned? Your GUO, Prince and Herald are excellent, very inspirational stuff. You almost make me want to start a Nurgle army.

>>53253204
You can normally just pull greenstuff off, unless it's been glued on. I found that dettol softens greenstuff to the point where it falls off by itself, so that could be an option.

>>53254257
I thought I could do it without my shitty airbrush, I was so wrong...

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>>53254140
Finish up the areas you intend to be green. I wouldn't recommend painting everything that color however.

The issue is having such large areas all being a uniform color. You need to implement contrasting and complementary colors to pick out the details.

Maybe try a flat green for some sections after completing the base layer.

Once you start picking out the details such as the trim, the rivets, the pipes and hatches, it will start to have a bit more character.

Don't get frustrated thinking you messed it all up. Stick with it, don't rush.

If all else fails have a look at examples online. At least then you can copy a color scheme.

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>>53254714
The original idea was to have something like pic related in green instead of red

>>53253212
>>53253240
Thanks guys.

>>53254410
Thanks a lot. Yes I've actually got a unit of pewter plaguebearers ready to start once these are finished (though I think I lost one so there is only 9). I love the sculpts and I've found a picture of a mixed squad of old and new plaguebearers and they mesh really nicely when painted up the same.

No other conversions planned though, I think I'm going to wait and see what 8th edition brings as they have teased some kind of nurgle monster and I'd be somewhat disappointed if a new GUO wasn't on the way. I want to make a female GUO. If the death guard take my fancy I'll be grabbing some of those too, lots of possibilities.

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How does the skin look?

I'm an airbrush noob.

painting question
I'm at the stage when I should use wash but I'm not sure how to go about it, because I used oil paints
normally, for canvas, I'd use a mix of three even parts of oil, white spirit and varnish with the desired finish tinted with the colour I'd like the wash to be

while painting I dialed back the oil as much as possible, thinning with white spirit and I think it worked out as it should

now I'm thinking what should do the trick would be a 50/50 mix of white spirit and varnish tinted with the colour, if anyone has any other ideas I'll hear them

I'd greatly appreciate it of someone could tell me what kind of consistency and colour saturation I should be going for, since this is my first time painting miniatures and I never used store bought model wash - for canvas I rarely do washing, but then I do I got for very thin, more transparent than not mix

>>53255049
like texture paint, anon.

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This is what I've been working on today.

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>>53253204
>I could eat a 'nob at 'naut

Are there any anima tactics recasters out there?

The game is kill and sodapop doesn't even sell the models anymore. In addition, aftermarket is dead.

>>53253542
I bought 2 racks from them, the racks themselves are great but the customer service isn't that good. I sent an email, but never received a reply regarding that my rack's magnets were the same polarity and I didn't get the knobs for my drawers.

>>53244020
every time I see shitty rubricae I cry a bit deep inside

>>53255288
As you know having worked with oil paints before, they take ages to dry. Some of the works done by the Old Masters still have wet oils on their canvas.

Before doing anything else, you need to varnish between each layer of oil paints, or they'll run and ruin your work.

Your wash idea is accurate, you can google for 'miniature painting oil washes' for better tutorials - it's commonly used in scale modelling (especially for aircraft).

You may be trying to bring across your experience with traditional painting to miniature painting - while you'll have a stronger grasp of colour theory, mixing and the like, the two are sufficiently different that it's worth looking at beginner tutorials and so on in order to learn the necessary skills.

John Blanche uses a lot of oil paints in his work, you could try searching for some of his models and attempt to emulate his technique (or not, he can be quite divisive).

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>>53256753
>John Blanche uses a lot of oil paints in his work, you could try searching for some of his models and attempt to emulate his technique (or not, he can be quite divisive).

Divisive? What do you mean? John Blanche is a god, and everybody who disagrees is a heretic.

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Reposting from a previous thread. My first Commissar. Aside from some minor repair work, and highlighting needed for his boots, what do y'all think?

(I tried to rotate the pic so it would display properly... hope it works.)

>>53256900
Fuck it. Just ignore me... Stupid phone refuses to cooperate >>53256900

>>53256784
I completely agree, but my local GW manager strongly dislikes both his art and any models painted in the 'Blanchitsu' style, which can be awkward considering that's my main interest and miniature output. Hopefully I can win him round with my latest batch of arco-flagellants (the leader is converted from the new Ogroid Thaumaturge). I might post some pics tomorrow.

>>53256911
All you have to do is crop the image and it won't rotate when posted. There are free apps for phones that will allow you to do this.

>>53256942
Any apps you recommend?

>>53253204
you should have files anyway nigga wtf, do you just leave mold lines on your shit

I generally just cut it off with an x-acto and then sorta put the edge of the blade against the surface and carve the GS off (without cutting plastic), really depends on the surface. filing will take forever so unless it's in a hard to reach place where only a file will work, try a knife.

>>53256976
I'll need to know what type of phone you have - iPhone or Android?

>>53256914
>Hopefully I can win him round with my latest batch of arco-flagellants

don't bother he sounds like a faggot. lowest common denominator ass dudes like this are the reason why the nu-tabletop hobby is filled with digital bullshit that all looks the same, I bet he thinks this shit is great

blanche master race

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>>53256914
>local GW manager strongly dislikes both his art and any models painted in the 'Blanchitsu' style

Is the Inquisition aware of this?

>>53256914
what a fagget

>>53257260
Android

>>53257362
Then I'd suggest either Photo Crop or Photo Editor, both free apps for android phones. The former does what it says on the tin whereas the latter allows you to do more than simply crop images, up to your personal preference really.

Cropping and resizing your images will go a long way to getting more helpful/useful feedback in these threads.

>>53257429
Thanks, m8. I'll get it asap.

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I just finished my first attempt at Deathwatch (just need to get it all based up). I think it looks alright, I just wish I was better at edge highlighting. Comments and criticism are welcome!

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Let's try this again, shall we?

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>>53257571

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>>53257599

>>53257517
good effort, only real critique is that the black highlights could stand to be a little thinner, especially on the head and his right leg

>>53257517
how many points do deathwatch cost anyway, I always see these blinged out squads of 10-ish dudes with frag cannons and mounts and other crazy stuff, and your model there has a heavy flamer AND a power fist with a meltagun on it. sounds like such a squad would be absurdly costed by GW logic.

t. never seen deathwatch fielded IRL

also yeah it's alright besides some highlights. but the metallics are a tad grainy too, this could either be because of primer sprayed in shit weather or the paints were too dried out. it's not *too* bad though.

What kind of primer should i use for plastic minis?

The only kind I have around the house is "valspar all purpose primer"
But it says for use on "metal & wood"

Will that fuck up the plastic or just not adhere well?

>>53257571
Is that Patrick Stewart?

>>53257860
it's almost certainly going to fuck it up since even spray primer specifically made for miniatures can be a pain in the ass to deal with, let alone shit made for painting a house. get miniature primer senpai. in fact read up on it because you need to know a lot more shit about primer like color etc.

>>53254504
As a scrub with no airbrush, are hand painting knights totally out of the question?

>>53258051
It is now. I didn't notice the resemblance until you pointed it out. Holy shit.

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Since Stormcast are shit ive been working on a new Free Guild army.
The new How to Paint Citadel Miniatures PDF is proving to be very useful. Any tips on how to blend so smoothly though? I can't get my blue this light and smooth.

>>53256753
yeah it can dry for ages but I took extra caution not to cake up the paint, the models were well primed and the colour stuck easily. I did thin my paint with white spirit and did two thin coats wherever needed, usually week apart when they were (being painted as thinly as I possibly could manage) as dry as I was willing to wait for. Since the scheme I was going for is very very basic I haven't done many layers on top of one another and I had no runs. Now it's been ten days since last layer, I was making some scenery in that time and I think they are ready for washing, if all goes well I'll be trying that tomorrow.

The thing is, I checked Duncan's videos on washing and how the wash should run, as well as some aircraft modeler's guides and still have trouble visualizing for what kind of flow and opacity I should be aiming, given that I'm completely green at miniature painting and those are my first attempts.

I never heard of John Blache before today but I'll definitely check his work. Thanks.

>>53254433
Thanks anon. I've found out that warm water might be helpful too, apparently it more or less dissolves/gets soft enough to pull off if made warm enough.

>>53257198
I'm using my knife like everyone else. No mouldlines for me.

>>53258151
Good to know, i figured it would fuck it up but i wanted to be sure.

Everywhere I look people say something different about primers
I'm leaning toward Army painter grey primer because it seems pretty versatile.

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You guys think this Is any good? I took the parts of this Wulfen I didn't like and replaced them with other bits.

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Hey, anons, how do you think this was painted? Like, the recipe, I mean. I feel like the red is Khorne Red, but I'm not sure. I also want to know how one can get a black like that, too. I can tell that the devotional parchments are greenstuffed(?) since they're not part of the CSM Termi box.

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>>53258994
The axe on this one is a simple conversion that looks great, just snip off the Force Stave's head and replace it with the axe head from the power axe. Head is from the CSM box, I think. Same devotional papers.

Man, these guys look great and I want to know how to paint guys like them.

>>53258994
no idea on the actual paints used but it's a very grey black, I'd assume it was done with a grey basecoat and a heavy wash before re highlighting

>>53252171
I like the scratch build, could you take a better picture by chance?

>>53257465

Drop the name fagging.

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Can someone point me to a good pink color? I'm looking for sort of a watermelon/rouge/punch color, and I don't think the basic Citadel color range can help me.

>>53259059
That axe IS sexy. I have a terminator lord in my SC box I haven't gotten around to - I don't really plan on using him but I may just convert him like this anyway. I'm also kinda tempted to see if the force staff hand is about as big as a standard CSM hand and make a warpsmith from scratch with this as the weapon.

>>53258784
where's the head from ? can't see it from the front, but looks like it might be usefull for one of my own conversions

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Here's the sgt conversion i've been working on for my SW:A kill team. I'm relatively new to model painting, and this is the first conversion I've tried.

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Hows my nurgle bros?

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Wip bulls!

>>53259573
this looks to me like it has purple in it, even on colour wheel closest is in red-purple range
get a palette and blend it mate
if you don't blend your own colours very often this might be helpful https://youtu.be/TNB3XY67Q-I

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I made a servo skull for no reason.

>>53260448
I like it

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>>53241276
So I found after months of searching my Rhino. But the Space Marine had been lost to time. And darkness. Cause garage. So I did a "conversion" to replace the soldier. Also does anyone know the best way to get a shit ton of dust off this without destroying paint or ripping cloth? Shits pointy.

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I got the Battle for Vedros set since it was cheap, but it came with a Terminator sergeant and no other Termies. Since I already had a Terminator Squad I converted him into a standard Terminator with a Power Fist and gave him a, sort of, decorated Veteran kind of look.

>>53260170
Looks good! Gotta love guardsmen with rucksacks. Just a few bits of constructive criticism:

Pick out some of the detail on that bolter. The skull could do with being a different colour (Maybe the same as the aquila on the helmet?) and maybe paint the panel its on a different shade? A lighter grey might work. Drill that barrel son.

Camoflage is looking good for someone new to model painting, this is a really strong one. You've avoided the common mistake of just using a base colour with some blobs on. .

Base that boy.

Overall, really strong miniature, Anon. Quiet characterful which is perfect for kill team.

>>53260500
>>53260500
compressed air nigga

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I made a wounded ork boy. Any idea what I should do with him?

I have an idea to buy a box of boys (they're cheap) and convert em into more wounded/dead boyz but not sure for what I'll need it for.

>>53260956
maybe objective markers?
Wound markers for characters?

You can always just do what you want cause it's fun, even if it doesn't serve any specific purpose on the table.

>>53260500
a literal feather duster applied with a careful hand

>>53260803
Thanks anon I'm glad you like it.

Any suggestion on a decent tool for drilling barrels?

As for basing I have a roll of 1.5mm cork that I got from a small railway modelling shop in town, so I'll use that to make like broken ground bases for my team.

>>53260956
orks will still attempt to attack after they have been bisected, I don't think a gunshot to an ork's chest is gonna lay him out unless you destroy his ability to move via skeletal structure, you pretty much have to pop them apart like zombies or blow their heads off. plus they barely feel pain (this is kinda contradictory in 40k lore since orks are said to disregard pain and have it greatly reduced, yet they will say "ow" when they are smacked in the head by their superiors etc. and the painboy's entire lore is that their operations are painful)

it would be cool to have a couple wounded orks like one that his chopped in half but still crawling menacingly with a pool of blood trailing behind his viscera, but I wouldn't overdo it. for that orc there I would make him somehow go with a painboy to show that his pain is the result of a gruesome surgery. either put him in the same squad or if you're feeling turbo fancy put him on the same base and have the painboy hovering over him with tools, although base size might be an issue.

>>53260170
Looking really nice! First commenter has some good ideas. Have you considered some squad markings or trophies to add some points of interest on the model?

>>53258190
Na I'll post some photos later but I've painted two knights by hand. Bonus: One was all white.

>>53261111
He'd probably stand up in a few moments but when you get shot you get knocked down most likley, and by instinct you will grab or touch the point of a sharp pain the second you feel it, it's not that unreasonable. He could also have his lower spine severe and be paralized from the waist down

I feel like doing a small diorama of my valhallans ambushing some orks so that ork in half idea is pretty cool

>>53261163

Thanks.

For squad markings I have plenty of those transfers that came with my models, but I'm not sure how to apply them properly, and freehanding markings seems daunting to me right now.

Trophy wise, I want my team to be fluffy, an as Cadians I'd think they'd be too disciplined to add trophies to their uniform, so It would just be more miscellaneous equipment that I'd add, but I wouldn't want to overload the models with bits. I want to add a pistol holster to his right hip, but since it's for SW:A it wouldn't be WYSIWYG as he's only armed with a bolter.

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>go to walmart to get that 99cent white primer
>out of stock
>hit up walmart on the way to college
>out of stock
>really want to paint anyway
>have to use my black primer
I'm never doing that again.

On a related note here is the poor sap who got sprayed.
Fucked up doing his arm but we can pretend it's just from the plasma gun overheating...right?

>>53245601
Can you post the images you used? And what are they, bosspoles, or just stuff? I Need them for my blud axes

>>53255758
What paints did you use, anon?

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I don't know if anyone knows but does anyone have any knowhow as to what citadel paints are used for The Cleaved paint scheme? I think I'll just have to order some different paints because I remember having to use Tentacle Pink for the few I painted long ago but would Emperor's Children match that?

Also a side note but holy fuck are these banners a pain in the dick to put back on Epidemius when they fall off. I got the resin model so it could be worse but I'm gonna need some greenstuff for it.

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>>53262388
ask Duncan on WHTV. They take requests

>>53262414
>balls meme
WHFB was populated by bitter old men, but AoS is ruled by 12 year olds apparently.

>>53262447
>Stormcuck Eternal detected

>>53262468
nah I'm just a bystander. But you post proves my point.

>>53262414
I'll give it a go, thank you!

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>>53262388
That is the weirdest color scheme but I do like The Cleaved because they are an odd warband you never see anybody field. I don't even know how I would describe it, that power armor is . . . pig colored?

Also on the GW paint schemes guide looks like the Rakarth Flesh schemes may be close to something like what The Cleaved are. For the slime and rust you could just do Typhus Corrosion + Ryza Rust for the rust, and brown, green, and black wash for the slime. Then after you varnish you could go over the slime/oil parts with brush on gloss.

>>53261261
Yea definetly add more equipment to them to make them more tacticool. Awesome mini btw!

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>When you keep getting more overtime hours but you just want to paint your guys
At least I'll be able to afford more guys

How do I make skeletons interesting /wip/? Looking for inspiration and all I see is white skeles with silver armor. I want to do something different, but I'm not sure how much variance is actually possible.

>>53263031
Black skeletons with gold armor

It'll be a new and groundbreaking idea

>>53263031
you could try your hand at osl and make the skulls and ribcages glow from within.
You could try to paint them as ancient old skellies, dark brown with cracks all over.
You could do them fossilized, like dark blue granite with a gloss varnish.
You could add warpaint or skrimshaw to the bones.

Dunno man, just try to think of a theme for your army and you should be able to come up with something.

>>53263031
depends on how much you're willing to convert

>skeleton holding his head in his arm
>skeleton with a chunk of his skull missing
>skeleton with no legs crawling across the ground
>skeleton with a pet skelebird on his shoulder. or some kind of pet dog on the base. I know mantic had a little skeleton dog in one of their skeleton kits.
>skeleton sprinting
>skeleton with crossed arms who is unamused
>skeleton throwing his weapon like a spear or javelin
>skeleton wielding a bone

I don't know what these skeletons are for or if you just meant paint so idk man.

so i somehow ended up in possession of Cadian, Catachan, Steel legion and DKoK models and can't decide if i should paint them all different color schemes to make it look like it's different regiments showed into 1 to fill in numbers or paint them all with same color scheme.

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Just finished my first paint job ever, anons. Praise our lord Demogorgon. About to go over it with a detail brush for stuff like the suction cups on his right side tentacle.

Did I do good?

>>53263258
you could do a penal legion.

Just paint them however you like add consistent army badges and pack a load of commissars for flavor.

>>53263304
Yes.

>>53262922
Thank you kindly for the advice! They always got my interest when I joined in and I think I was between them and The Purge to try until I decided I liked the unknown factor for The Cleaved. I have them and Death Guard since I started out with em and will continue to expand on that front. I was definitely thinking of some kind of fleshtone like Rakarth Flesh to it but with a small addition of pink like I did with the last one. I hadn't thought of the washes for the slimey parts of the armor. I'll give that a shot to see how it goes.

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Hey /wip/ how do you like my renegade titan? (The green one in the back)

Please ignore everything else about my pic

>>53257794
Standard unit cost (22pt/standard vet, 35pt/termi, etc). Boltgun and chainsword are free, frag cannons are 25 points. There's a formation that bashes together 10 predefined characters (including his) into one squad that's actually pretty neat. Their regular squads occasionally mix as well.

Deathwatch is HILARIOUSLY overcosted, though. One decent 5-man squad can creep upwards of 200 points... for 1W 3+.

>>53260286
real nice clean paintjob. not much else to say, good work

>>53263523
>Please ignore everything else about my pic

no, tell me about geologic maps

also is that a gundam or something? chaos sigils where

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>>53262388
>I don't know if anyone knows but does anyone have any knowhow as to what citadel paints are used for The Cleaved paint scheme?

I feel like you'd be looking at the old paints for that one. I think they came up with that scheme in 4th. Like, I think that pink is a mix of Hormagaunt Purple and white? With Chaos Black, Dark Angels Green and one of the reds as the ooze?

>>53263832
its the biggest gunpla model zaku they make
still way cheaper than any GW titan at like $100

haven't added any chaos sigils to it yet but possibly soon.
I just realized the other day that its scale fits perfectly with 40k

also i'm a geology student so that's one of my textbooks for a class on how to construct geologic maps. No GIS mapping though; just by hand or with google earth.

>>53249626
Ah, ok, thanks for the prop. I guess it kinda does... May be just the angle of the photo, because I haven't noticed it when working on the mini. Will look into it

How the fuck do I paint yellow? I am gonna start imperial fists, but cant get the yellow right

>>53264169
you could probably just go with white primer, yellow spray, and then a wash in the recesses. then a light yellow highlight. touching up the yellow after is much easier than actually painting it base.

idk how hardcore you wanna get though, this probably gives okay but not mind blowing results

>>53260036
It's a slaughterpriest or something like that from Age of Sigmar, the kit came with two heads, I bought It for the manliest head GW has ever produced and traded the rest to a friend, would've been good for bits either way, It's a nice looking kit.

>>53263523
Unpainted/10.
Not 40k at all/10.

>>53260036
>>53264348
Fount It, good luck w/ your conversion, It's a badass head.
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Exalted-Deathbringer-with-Impaling-Spear

>>53264270
thanks dude!

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Anyone had experience with these peice of shit new flying bases?

I left this cunt to dry for a full 24 hours and just one hour after removing the paint pots I had holding the frigate in place, I came back to start painting it and it had collapsed under its own weight.

Anyone else had this experience?

>>53264603
what type of glue did you use?

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>>53264670

>>53264670
Also the glue used shouldn't make a difference. Even if it had melted the stand, it had a full day to re-solidify. Also I checked it before removing the supporting pots, it was all dry and fine. This isn't my first rodeo.

The thing just fully snapped under it's own weight, sitting there on it's own on my desk when I was out of the room.

>>53264736
>>53264747
Some hard clear plastic doesn't react the same as that contained in standard sprues, you may just need to use superglue.

>>53264827
By the sound of it the issue wasn't the bond, the plastic literally snapped under the weight of the model.

>>53264603
What model was it?

>>53262171
For the Green and red it's taimya's clear colors over that chrome you see there. for the purple it was a test run with the Purple pearl from model masters that I would say went over really really well. Gonna pick up another knight tomorrow and do it up in either the hot pink pearl I've got or roll with the Quantum blue color I've been thinking about.

>>53264747
Normally, when something just misteriously gets wrecked in my house when I'm out, I ask the cat about it.

>>53264890
ahh yeah I misread, but I think the issue still lies in the type of plastic, that stuff is prone to snapping and a bubble in the wrong spot would definitely make holding the weight of the model it's designed for a problem.
>>53264603
So what are you going to do now? Brass or something?

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There was a Skulltaker and Juggernaut in my backlog that I finally started painting. Just got the base coats done on the Juggernaut's body. The square and circle bases and the magnetized centerpiece are all primed, too.

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Fleet one of three nearing completion.
Rate Big Red and a couple of his buddies.

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>>53263523

Not 40k,
A good proxy does not make you raise an eyebrown and say it is model x from franchise y when you look at it.
If it is the cost that prohibits you go for the chinaman.

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blending cloth for a first time, quite happy with results, but still lots to do with him

>>53265460
bretty good but i would not have painted the cloth the same color as the skin.
You need to differentiate between those two.
Also the highlights and shadows on the cloth is a bit overdone, at one point it is absolute white where at the recesses it is very dark blue.

Are GW paints supposed to scratch off so easily? I've never noticed it before but I'm fucking around on test models and I can scratch it off like crayon.

My paints are thin.

>>53264890
Model was an arkanaut frigate. The thing snapped under its own weight in a closed off room with no animals or anything in it after 24 hours of drying. It snapped below the spherical top of the new clear plastic flying stand. I think it's a weak point as the plastic contracts there.

I basically had to drill out the bulb that was firmly glued in the base of the frigate, then jam the stem of the stand in there like the old flying bases would do. Seems to be a lot strongerror now and I was able to start painting.

Imo it's a shit design.

I called GW customer service about it. They wouldn't replace it because I bought it from my FLGS. The guy also said that this was the first he'd heard of it, but honestly how many people would actually call Australian GW phone service?

I'd post a pic but I'm comfy in bed and walking to my model room is too much exercise.

>>53265628
Have you used matt varnish on them ?

>>53265717
That certainly sounds like shitty customer service, I've had much better luck here in the states. Hell, I even got a replacement of a metal night lord champ that I had no receipt for that had been purchased at a flgs yeaaaars ago that I had never gotten around to getting replaced until recently.

It looks like you just got unlucky and there was a bubble at the most critical part of the stand. It also looks way too close to the infamous old flying stems that would snap off inside the model with the slightest breeze.

>>53241276
I need some help picking a color scheme for my chapter. I'm going for Dark Angels successors and the emblem I settled on is a Ushabti Bone Cross of the Lorraine on a Caliban Green wing. Though I'm not particularly tied to the wing, as I always hate doing those by hand. I may end up creating a stencil for it. I may just go for a Caliban Green Cross of the Lorainne, but it feels too empty if I do that.

>>53265628
Make sure you wash your models before priming and painting. Sometimes sprues can have more release agent left on them than other times and it can really make a difference.

>>53249984
>Tamiya 2mm flexible tape

I have other masking tapes from Tamiya, but not the 2mm variant. That explains. If I offended you by calling your paintjobs mediocre, my bad. They're solid tabletop quality, but there's room for growth.

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Making a colour scheme for Skitarii. Want something fairly bright. I think the inner suit is too drab, but don't know what to do with it. Any suggestions?

>>53260286
How,d you get that shade of green? I did my cadians by the GW route of putting cadian green basecoat, but it's much more darker than that.

>>53266470
Why wouldn't you thin your paints i dont understand it.

>>53266470
first step I'd suggest is stripping him in ethanol to save the poor mofo.

>>53265460
>>53265465
the cloth looks nice so far but the skin could be a bit cleaner and more accentuated. also, I think I see some minor pools of purple at the feather tips. maybe make the transition smoother. good work.

>>53266767
I did. Most of it took three or more coats. Especially the yellow.

>>53266791
Thanks for your helpful contribution.

>>53266470
thoughts on colour sheme: go for a brownish color for the insides of the coat. might work well with the yellowy-orange of the coat.

and try to keep your hand stady. put your hands on the table while apainting or use a box or something to rest them there. that way you could get much much finer lines. and it really looks like you should thin your paint more and apply maybe two thin layers of em. listen to what duncan says.

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>>53262080
look up sashimono you fuggen baka

can anybody post a size comparison picture of cuckstoodees next to a new rubric marine?

>>53266857
Okay, thanks for the advice. I do worry that it'd be even more drab without the red though.

I did thin the paints though. Enough that most parts needed more than two coats to get the right colour.

>>53267017
how do you undercoat? spraycan or straight aut of the pot? maybe the primer is to thick. esp. around the legs and face.
you seem to have problems with clean borders between areas of colors, maybe you could practice on an space marine arm with pauldron. there you have a lot of clean edges and areas you could practice. the skitarii are a pain in the arse to paint if your a new to painting (I just asume you are). am not trying to be mean or something, just honest and hopefully helpfull.

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How would I go about making a Venom Snake to use as an inquisitor?

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Looking to recreate the pinkcrons on the left, should I shade with reikland flesh or seraphim sepia?

>>53267289
look like magenta airbrushed over purple.
the metals look more like brass though. So if you are asking what to use on the metals I'd say sepia rather than reikland flesh.

>>53267347
Yeah I meant the gold colored joints, thanks

>>53267210
A medic, some plastic surgeons, and a big fuckin' chunk of metal.

>>53267210
take any head with a beard you like and add a eyepatch or bionic eye.
Add a bionic arm and paint it red.

What else do you need?

>>53267476
>eyepatch

help

>>53267492
just need a tiny bit of greenstuff.
Shouldn't be a big deal to sculpt.

>>53267543
Any good beardy faces that suit the look? And ideally some manufacturers of 40K scale fatigues. madrobot and Victoria seem to have some things that would work.

>>53267579
the GW empire range should have a bunch of possible candidates, the chaos marauders also have bearded heads.
I can really recommend the Frostgrave Barbarians for bearded heads too. Recently picked some up, look really nice and fit perfectly in terms of scale.

I think Madrobot has some operator heads, probably Call of Duty inspired or something along those lines. One of those had a pretty big beard too.

>>53267140
I undercoated with slightly thinned gesso, as suggested in the OP. The link claimed it would all be okay.

Also my eyesight is shit and I have trouble seeing small details so I didn't notice a difference. I guess painting tiny met is a pretty shit hobby for me.

>>53267705
that explains it. I'd use sprayprimer from GW or army painter.
>eyesight
try those, helps with the steady hand and crappy eyes
https://www.amazon.com/Helping-Third-Magnifier-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B0015YJV7S

>>53260270
good but generic

>>53267820
Okay thanks. That sucks though, as painting on primer seems more convenient to me than a spray. Is the OP suggestion a trap, or just a bad idea for a noob that doesn't know what they're doing?

>>53268583
Not a trap. Just not noob friendly.

>>53268583
There are other paint-on primers available that are far more noob friendly than Gesso. The Vallejo paint range has some great polyurethane primers that go on excellently by brush (even better with an airbrush, but you're just starting).

I personally recommend their black and white primers, I often mix the two to make a nice grey as I find their grey primer goes a little funky in the pot after a little while.

>>53268894
>>53268988
Okay, thanks. Should I presume the Vallejo stuff needs thinning too?

>>53244020
what i do is as follows:
>Base Coat Gun Metal<
>Highlight Chrome<
>Paint Thin Streaks of solid white for a crackling electricity effect, or a whatever kind of effect you want<
>Glaze desired color, build up the layers to create a strong shade<
>finally, thin down a bit of Gloss Medium ('Ard Coat) and paint over the blade<

going to switch to my phone and upload a picture of my Slambo i did for reference

>>53245558
Flow Aid for an air brush will help as well, also helps with smoothing out thin layer of paint when brushing it on by hand.

>>53269116
I wouldn't thin their primer, no. It's formulated for airbrush so it's thin enough already.

Just don't do the thing that all newbies do and overload your brush. It doesn't matter how thin your paint is if you slop a ton of paint on with every stroke.

>>53269258
I've seen people say this before but fresh out of the bottle this stuff has the consistency of normal miniature paint, not good for brushing or airbrushing. I usually thin 1:1 with acrylic thinner when airbrushing it and just a little thicker when brushing.

>>53269258
Right, thanks.
>>53269534
Except now I'm confused.

>Just don't do the thing that all newbies do and overload your brush.
Probably guilty.