Post best citadel paint

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red > blue

I'm a big fan of Ulthuan Grey. That off white is great.

Can't say what the best for me is since I often change the colours I'm using, what with working on craftworld eldar, muhreens and IG along with different mordheim warbands, but fuck I can sure say what's the worst.

Snakebite Leather

Seriously, it was already TOO THIN without even touching it. Can't really say about the new range since I'm still using stuff from as back as 15 years ago.

>>52791551
But which one tastes best?

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>>52791731

Reikland fleshshade

>>52791731
Devlan Mud tasted the best by far

>>52791731
Skull White had something different that made it really tasty

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This way I can have painted stuff that still looks like bare plastic.

>>52791838
>not playing space sharks

>>52791880
Actually I use it on sisters, only way I'm ever gonna see them look plastic.

>>52791902
Don't worry, i hear that brought up almost as much as armour save modifiers. So i understand.

Elf Grey tastes like memories. I still have two pots left having bulk bought it in the late nineties.

>>52791731
Does mechrite red taste really sour to anyone else?

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>>52791838

I use it for my Tau and Guard, looks better after half a gallon of nuln oil.

>>52791551

Best blue master race.

>>52791588
>khorne
>not mephiston
pleb

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Everything else posted is a nice paint, but not irreplaceable. This is just a superb technical, unmatched anywhere.

>>52791731
Definitely not Nuln Oil. Shit turns my stomach every time.

>>52792572
I'm really fond of this Tamiya clear red paint, not sure its real name. Always looked spot on for fresh blood. I threw it everywhere on my daemons.

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>>52791551
>Citadel thread but this is the only time I'll be able to publicly proclaim my love for this paint set

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Absolute fav is pic related. Runners-up: Chetsnut Wash from the same generation, Charadon Granite.

>>52791731
>>52791764
>>52791773
>tasting your washes instead of pouring them down exotic storm drains

>>52793314
Are those the alcohol-based ones or the new ones?

>>52793046
X-27 Clear red, best blood effects of all time

Why do the new geedubs paint not smell as good as the old ones in the hexagonal tubs?

>>52793407
Idk what you mean by "new ones", I'm only familiar with the alcohol-based liquid metallics range. The kinds that look the way molten gold looks in fantasy movies.

>>52793407

It's the alcohol ones that will rust when exposed to air. That's why it says LIQUID GOLD on one of those bottles. The alcohol Vallejo metallics are pretty much nicknamed "the Liquid Gold line". The new line is called Vallejo Metallic Color (because the initials already existed for Vallejo Model Color but fuck us, right Vallejo?) and come in plastic looking airbrush bottles with flip tops and black caps. The alcohol Liquid Gold series come in glass looking jars with white screw tops and I believe the current packaging should have a smiling sun on it.

hey tell me, can I just do miniature painting with regular acrylics if I can mix them well?

>>52793543

Yes but it's not worth it. It's like painting your miniatures with berries and your own ground pigments instead. That's pretty much how crappy generic acrylics are. Don't thin them too much and they're so thick they obscure detail while STILL being transparent, try to thin them and they turn into a watery, fibrous mess.

Just buy pigment dense model paints. The fuck are you wasting money on this hobby for if you're just going to skimp on shit like paint.

>>52793598
I just bought like ten figures I need for my dnd and I want to paint them reasonably well without spending any more that necessary on arts supplies I intend to use once

I'd probably buy like five basic colours and mix anyway, but apparently the colours they sell are awfully specific and this makes it harder that just buying basic canvas acrylics

>>52793663
Buy one of the many, many basic paint starter sets. Army painter is generally a safe bet. It'll do you a lot better than using terrible shit.

>>52791551
pretty much any base or wash is fucking awesome, those are the only colors i buy from them

>>52793543
yes, just buy a good brand. you might need more than coats, that's it.

>>52793663

Buy a cheaper but high quality brand like Army Painter or Scalecolor or even Reaper, and only buy the specific colors you need and mix black and white into everything to create various shades.

If you're already an artist you should be able to get away with just R, B, Y, brown, white, black.

>>52793663
Just get them commission painted or use your local gaming shop's paints.

>>52793715
well I already do oil painting so I can probably mix acrylics as well
>>52793728
>>52793673
the problem is I live in the middle of slavland and while I managed to find second hand minis speciality paints are either citadel or whatever it's called, or something from manufacturer called Pactra and for what it would cost me to get one brand name paints I can get five or six pactra ones

>>52793543
yes, even the crappy ass one work for me (disclaimer, i'm nowhere near being good),
they tend to be thicker and coarser than paints for modelism, tho

thin them well and be patient because you might need to apply several coatings of very fine paint to get the saturation you want (if you don't dilute them you'll just drown all your details with clumps of paint)
unlike hobby paints (vallejo/citadel/etc) the tones are very flat and pure, so creating effects such as pus, rotten flesh, rust, mud, etc... takes effort
by using a shitload of water and very little paint you can do a wash
i buy primer, bases, and washes from vallejo and citadel and every other color from regular acrylics (unless is some very specific color like citadel's gold) and it gets the job done

>>52793837
>i buy bases washes and metallics from citadel
>that's like 75% of the paintjob

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>easy application
>perfect shade of purple for my purposes
>no longer produced and can't find a suitable replacement that comes close

just fuck me up senpai

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>>52791551
I had a box in storage for a decade. Every citadel pot was dried out and every Coat'd'Arms pot is still good. QED. Citadel a shit, scientifically speaking.

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>>52791551

Kantor blue is just the right shade to go midnight clad

>>52793862
i have models that i've painted without modelism paint, including citadel's metallic paints, it's just i no longer see any point in doing so
bases (whether citadel's of for regular scale models) are just fucking great and so are washes, you could do the same with regular acrylics but it would take more time

>>52793314
Those look like they have hella shiny pigment density, even in the photograph. Woahaooahoah.

>>52793795
Oils are very ok for miniatures, why didn't you even consider them if you use them?
Some pro painters use them and say they look better for some specific colours. I don't know about that, but oils definitely work for miniatures.

>>52793795
If those are your only choices, get a Citadel base paint set. The finer grind on the pigments is actually worth it compared to using craft or artist acrylic paints.

>>52793919

Coat d'Arms are just the old Citadel paints. GW broke up with them around 2012 and started making the current paint line. Even the colors are still the same so if you have old OOP GW colors you can find them at Coat d'Arms.

>>52793979
really? I was convinced acrylics are preferable for miniatures.
I know oils cure much much longer and I wonder how would they react to being touched a lot, even varnished.
I got good quality paints already though

>>52793956

It's because they use higher quality aluminum flakes as well. That's why they rust. They use the same technique for Vallejo Metallic Color and GW's AoS metallics with the white lids which is why they are so much better than GW's old metallics and cost more money. Thinner and smoother, yet still covers better and is brighter.

>>52794041
After you varnish you could evem have spit on the miniature and it will reamin there, varnish protects flock too, anything goes as long as it sticks long enough to be varnished. The long curong time is why most people don't even know oils are an option, with miniatures people don't generally want to wait hours, but it's a bonus too, i guess you know about wet blending? Oils make it easier since they don't cure as fast as acrylics. If you have experience with oils i would advise using them or at least trying, if you have no access to miniature paints then just go for them. (Tbh i have no experience but there are some people that defend hogh quality artist acrylics and say they work just as well as miniature paints, there was a miniatures manufacturer which said he only uses a specific brand he likes and says they are in no way worse, it might be that the stigma around craft paints is partially overblown, but again i never tried. I will post the brand in question shortly if you are interested.)

>>52794324
Paint range is pebeo, here is the link to the manufactirer supporting them if you are interested, somewhere he sais there is no difference and he is a good painter and not a poorfag so i have little reason to doubt. ( though gain none to believe him either, just pointing out stuff you people make your choices).
https://theionage.com/collections/paints-range

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>>52794324
>>52794377
you're talking my language man AND you just saved me a bunch of money

I'm good with oils, I got good quality paint and I did some research on my own and it appears it's really a thing among guys who build tanks and such and there's some miniature specific tutorials there for oils so I suppose I start doing my research.

DOT-3 is good for batch stripping, right?

>>52793956
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axFTMHp8vHU

>>52794452
I have no idea what dot3 is, here in italy we use chante clair/ any genrric degreaser( i don't know why no one ever mentions it here, it doesn't strip primer, but it's 100% safe both for the miniature and you), i read a lot of people using simple green and rubbing alvohol, but know nothing about those. Also i have no idea if any of these things will work with oils, but i guess it will? I don't know any product you might want to trt remember try it first in a piece of sprue or expendable piece of miniature.

>>52794599
dot-3 is brake fluid, it's supposed to strip paint and primer
I got primer and I'm pretty sure oils will stick to it, given time to cure

>>52794452
Also i am interested in oils too, if you find a good tutorial please post it.

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>>5279155

Never forget

>>52794652
Ayyy, i heard nasty stuff abot brake fluid, test first.(shit i keep on remembering stuff late, is the cost of good oils and acrylics comparable or do oils cost much more? Since you already have exp with oils do you think you would be able to say if they would be cheaper then hobby paints? I am interested)

>>52794696
well I never bought hobby/model paints but I looked up online how much would those cost me and while a tube of an oil paint 200ml of thick pigment rich paste costs only twice as much (van gogh brand - popular mid range choice in my country) as a teeny tiny (12ml) jar of citadel paint. Hobby acrylics probably cost about the same as citadel paint but for like a 100ml of thick paint but don't take my word for it.
Depending on what I'm painting you can do with hardware store brushes for some things, but I guess I'll have to buy at least a couple of extra fine ones for models, but those are relatively cheap at the arts store, cheaper than citadel brushes.
Mediums like linseed oil or isopropyl are cheap

Generally oils are expensive, especially if you are starting a palette, but depending on how much (large) you paint you can get really good mileage from them. If you only painted minis I think they could last you forever, but I can't recommend switching since I'm only about to try them on minis myself.

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This shade will literally turn babby painters into adequate hobbyists.

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>>52791551
>ctrl+f
>no Hawk Turquoise
Absolutely shameful.

>>52791551
Old flesh wash, it was great for metals but not flesh.

>>52794696
>>52794652
>>52794452
Dot-3 is brake fluid, what some of you are thinking of is "brake parts cleaner". As a mechanic who deals with this shit daily, I do not recommend either one for use with plastic miniatures. Brake fluid is less corrosive than brake parts cleaner, but still has a chance of melting most plastics or at least scarring them. Brake fluid will mar auto paint and corrode metal.

>>52794016
No. They aren't. It's not the paint itself that I bought. It's the product of a sealing paint pot that I could use at some point in the future rather than coming back to dried up useless garbage after a little bit of storage.

>>52794058
cool. I'll have to play with those when I get a chance. Shiny af.

>>52794523
I don't want to watch ten minutes of some dude painting to answer my question.

What does he use for masking?

>>52794692
Fuck those paint pots. Fucking garbage. Textbook GW: How to alienate an entire generation of gamers.

>>52795420
oh ok
then what do you recommend for safely stripping acrylics

>>52793882
I still have half a pot that I'm using for my Genestealer Cult units. No idea what I'm gonna do if it runs out before the army's finished.

>>52791551
my nigger.

Protip: Use kantor blue to paint ALL eyeballs! Its the easiest paint to apply as eyes, for some reason

>>52795773
>Use kantor blue to paint ALL eyeballs!

Yes but why would you paint all your models as having solid blue eyes?

>>52791551
Citadel paint is overpriced junk, like pretty much everything from gw

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The perfect black highlight

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>>52795817
Close, but not quite.

>>52795659
what country do you live in?

>>52795503
Nobody asked a question, I was just showing anon the Liquid Gold paint in action since he complimented it.

I don't know what he uses for masking, but judging by how easily it peels away it's probably just low-stick masking tape.

>>52791551
This is my go to blue. From Tau to BB dwarves. If it's blue, it's Kantor.

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While Caledor Sky may be close enough to Enchanted Blue, Xereus Purple is just not the same as Liche Purple, and NOTHING matches old Midnight Blue, not even Kantor.

>>52791551
my man. just picked up another bottle today.

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>>52791731
If you don't chug the paint water every time you finish a mini you're a coward

>>52793882
I have 5 pots of this unopened, and 6 of Devlan Mud

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This will always be my favourite paint; painted my first regiment of skeleton warriors with this as their shield/cloth/etc colour

>>52792567
Fag

>>52799976
>and 6 of Devlan Mud
>stocking 6 pots of an inferior wash that will separate before you finish the 2nd one
>not just using AP strong tone

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I'm disappointed in you all

>>52795947
poland

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Its beauty is perfect.
And now I can buy it on its own without needing to buy an entire paint set.
To think I used to mix my own version.


But
Really the best citadel paint is black wash.

>>52795044
Badly painted armies will look decent if you apply a good coat of black wash.

>>52800333
To jak znajdziesz cos dobrego do plastików to daj znać.

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Back in the day, I managed to find a use for this colour on almost every model I painted. Also got a lot of use out of >>52799998, somehow.


>>52791588
Khorne Red doesn't seem to be able to decide if it wants to be red or magenta.

>>52800540
Needs to be a nice, even coat though. If you apply it unevenly, your shitty paint jobs will end up positively steaming.

>>52791714
Never had that problem with Snakebite Leather. In fact, it was probably the best Citadel paint I ever used.

>>52791714
You shut your whore mouth, Snakebite Leather is awesome and I still use it despite having mostly switched to superior brands.

>>52794016
>>52793919

I have two pots of late 1980's Citadel paint. Shining gold and Mithril Silver. The lids have perished and cracked, but the paint is still liquid. Meanwhile, in my hex-pots....

>>52794692
This.

>>52795094
It was shit. The only colours you need are bad moonz yellow and flesh wash.

>>52791551
That's not Hawk Turquoise.

Khorne red with a secondaryof macragge blue looks fuckin sweet for their armor and vehicles.

ALSO MACRAGGE BLUE IS NOT ULTRAMARINES IT'S SUPPOSED TO BE CALGAR BLUE AND YELLOW NOT DARK BLUE AND GOLD.

>>52801230
>CALGAR BLUE AND YELLOW
Nigga, fuck your 2nd/3rd edition cartoon marines.

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what? no ushabti bone? Litterall the best colour GW ever made.

also
>>52801362
fuck you and your edgy marines, they look like clowns anyway, toning the blue down slightly won't make them realistic, just choose the superior aesthetic.

>>52801412
TIL that not making Marines look like they stepped out of a kids' cartoon is "edgy".

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Favorite/most often used shade?

>>52801770
Currently Agrax Earthsade Gloss

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>>52791838

>>52799976
i would seriously offer to buy 1 pot, assuming it's not dried up

>>52791551
If its not technical, its just overpriced in a worse pot.

>>52791551
>Post best citadel paint
Holy fucking shill batman!

Citadel is garbage, vallejo and p3 are way better.

The only one I gotta have is the cracky terrain paint. Desert, ice, lava flows...so many dramatic effects.

>>52795783
just the iris. use ulthuan grey to paint the whites... and you can't really tell that the eyes are blue

>>52805252
You mean Agrellan Earth? Can you mix it with blue/white for an ice look while retaining the crackle effect, or do you paint the crackle normally and repaint it in an ice color after it dries?

How to tell what shade to use?
I bought nuln oil already....

>>52806381
Usually you want something that's close to the base colour, unless you WANT the shading to be a different colour for effect.

>>52794659
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2JurVVWLzY
apparently oil washes are a thing even more so than paints
machine models and soldiers are most commonly oil painted apparently, I have yet to come across a 40k miniature oil paint specific painting tutorial

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I'm a poorfuck so I've been using Apple barrel paints. How big of a difference is there between them and expensive paint?

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>>52810700
>Not going for generic mini paint like villejo or army painter
>Having an expensive hobby when you're poor

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>>52810700
they're crap band obscure detail very easily, but you can manage a half decent paint job if you work 'em right. inferior to proper paints in almost every way, but they're great for terrain.
Grab a handful of Vallejo bottles and some Nuln Oil and you'll be golden.

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best metal

>>52810700
Seriously, any of the dedicated miniatures paints would be miles better than Apple Barrel. If you're on a really tight budget and willing to play around with mixing colors, you could get by with as few as six paints (red, yellow, blue, white, black, and brown), a single metallic paint, and a dark wash.

I mostly use Citadel paints, but that is largely because I've been following a series of tutorials for my Star Wars Imperial Assault minis. The guy who makes the tutorials mostly uses Citadel, so that's what I've been using to make sure I have an accurate color match. It's also easier for me to find Citadel paints at one of the game stores I shop at. I've had a couple of pots sort of go bad, but I generally really like their paints.

It's much harder for me to find a lot of Vallejo colors. Hobby Lobby here has some Vallejo, but their selection seems tailored to historical war miniatures -- all grays, browns, drab greens, and metallics. The game shop I get my Citadel paints at has a more colorful selection of Vallejo than Hobby Lobby, but whether they have a certain color is extremely hit-or-miss. I've found one or two bottles that were almost too runny to use as anything but a wash, but I like the dropper bottles.

The game shop where I do most of my non-paint shopping has a little rack of Army Painter colors. It's a very basic selection, but you can probably get pretty close to the color you want with just a little bit of mixing.

>>52806381
If you're shading something that's already medium-dark to dark, Nuln Oil (or another black shade) will usually work just fine. To shade brighter colors, you might want a shade that is the same general hue. Most are pretty obvious, but it's worth being careful with greens and blues.
Biel Tan Green is the most straightforward green
Athonian Camoshade is a drab or olive green
Coelia Greenshade is a blue-green wash
Drakenhof Nightshade is plain blue

>>52805785
Never tried mixing.
Do the base in the color you want showing underneath (blue for icy water, red for lava, etc) and then a couple gloss coats, then a phat layer of Earth. Chip bits of the AE off as desired, base upper surface, wash with the crack color, then polish up and drybrush the top with white for ice or grey for ash.

>>52810700
Big. If you're good enough to make craft paints look as good as dedicated mini paints, just take a few commissions and get yourself a decent paint set.

>>52793314
Ive owned 2 sets of these. Both times the flakes are all congealed at the bottom, and no amount of shaking, mixing, or stirring will separate it. When I could finally get it to a sensible half hardened goop, I used alcohol to thin it so that I could use it on a brush instead of a butter knife, and still the only thing that I managed to get from it was a thin glittery veil.

0/10, would not reccomend

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>>52791551
Citadel equivalent to this when

>>52812779
Never. What I would like to see though is Bandai or Kotobukiya get into the miniatures wargaming business. Now that would be killer.

>>52791551
citadel paints smell so fucking good

or maybe its just nostalgia but i really want to smell some bleached bone right now

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>>52791838
i use that color for the grey on my tanks

Hey. Not sure if anyone has tried it. But would this stuff.

https://culturehustle.com/products/black-v1-0-beta-the-world-s-mattest-flattest-blackest-art-material

work at all as a model paint? It says it can be thinned and used for ink washes.

>>52812429
Do you ever paint straight from the pot? This is something that absolutely mustn't be done with these paints, it ruins them instantly as the alcoholic medium dries out so fast.
I've been warned that these paints are pretty but last about a year then get as you described, but it never happened to mine.

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>>52814775
>Bob Semple

>>52814775
hi Bob