WIP thread

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Started to base these guys and basecoat the remaining ten.

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Finished another Carcharodon. Very slowly trying Polynesian tatoos, but I feel like I need more wave and teeth patterns. I'll get the hang of it.

>>52654230
What IS milk consistency?

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Finished my first model. Looks good I think.

>>52654398
Shit quality I'm sorry.

>>52654379
Meaningless.

Seriously, if I thin my paint any farther than I already have it, it turns to water with a slight tint and is useless. If I leave it as it is, one coat is as thick as "two thin coats". With wet palette, mind.

Milk consistency is a meaningless meme.

>>52654260
Even as it is, it looks very nice. A little cleanup on the lines and you'll be golden. Would a micron pen- if they even exist in white for a reasonable price- work better for you, maybe?

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So I just found out that FW doesn't make Repressors any more and they're going on eBay for a gazillion dollars each. Would it be possible to kitbash one into existance?

>>52654379
pour some fucking milk out, see how it looks, compare it to paint when you've watered it down. try to get it to the same thinness.

>>52654379
I didn't understand ir zither until I watched a video on airbrushing and the guy showed it with a test tube.
Water consistency: goes down without sticking to the tube nor leaving a trace
Milk consistency: goes down the tube but leave a slight trace and some paint behind itself.

Remember not to overload your brush as well. Your paints an be thinned perfectly, but if you put too much on your brush it'll be shit. Make sure to very mighty dab the side of your brush on a tissue when you think your brush has picked up too much water/medium. That way you only keep some nice, thinned paint.

>>52654453
Joke's on you, I actually used micron pens, A-HA! ;_;
I'm thinking about getting a smaller white one though, as of now it's quite big.
For the black amrkings it's just a mattee of practice and doing some good polynesian signs I'm afraid.

>>52654485
>Would it be possible to kitbash one into existance?
Yes of course. The original model was built by someone in the first place too after all.
On a slightly more helpful note though scratchbuilding the plow with plastic card should be doable for anyone able to make a straight cut.

If you got the connection you could order chinacasts though.

>>52654453
>Seriously, if I thin my paint any farther than I already have it, it turns to water with a slight tint and is useless. If I leave it as it is, one coat is as thick as "two thin coats"

I have this problem too. I have never felt like I achieved the proper consistency, I just settle for too thick because the alternative is paint running everywhere.

>>52654590
>If you got the connection you could order chinacasts though.

Where would I do that?

>>52654639
Last I heard, r/yoyhammer then look around for Z.

>>52654681
Thanks

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>>52654230
Got a metric fuckton of projects from the last few weeks to post, so lets get started.

Reposting my Plague Hulk from last thread. I'm concerned that he might actually be a bit too colourful for the grimperpyness of the 41st millenium.

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VDV nob anon here. Based and varnished this fella just now. How's he?

Tried to click the link for stripping paint, but it was dead.

>found a really latge, comprehensive skaven army for sale.
>some decent conversions and models
>about 300+ models in it
>the catch: it looks like it was painted by a child

Aside from it looking like it was touched up with crayons, it's a good deal. What I need now is a decent way to quickly remove the paint. Best methods?

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>>52654985

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>>52654971
The we got these 'zerkers here, baselayers_and_washes.jpg. Wont get around to finish them any time soon, which is a shame.

>>52654485
Chinacasts of these are known to exist, just fyi.

>>52655013
Some one always brings this up and it's even mentioned in the OP post.
You need to paste the dots in the url with the rest of it. the link works fine.

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>>52654985
Seriously, unless it's a tentacle monster, matte spray is the way to go.

>>52655013
If it's acrylics, dip the models in alcohol. Helps like nothing else.

>>52655050
It's the flash that caused this look. It's night here now, so there was no option but to use it.

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>>52654971
>>52655038
Also got these noise marines lying around from last year. Mostly disappointed with the way i handled the highlights on these fuckers, so i dropped them until now.

>>52654985
>>52655030
Pretty damn shiny, the skin looks a bit dull. Good highlights, is that grass on his base growing on rusted metal?

>>52655038
Looks decent save for the oversized arms on 2 and 6. I get that it's Chaos, but that's insane. Also the horns and skin kinda blend together.

>>52655088
Nay, the grass is growing from a gap between the plates.

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>>52655013
If you're in the UK, I heard from several people here that pic related was fantastic.

>>52655043
Should change the helper then, "paste the link, don't click it" makes more sense to the rest of the world who calls "ellipses" periods.

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>>52654971
>>52655038
>>52655088
And then there's this guy. Champion to a termicide squad i'm going to field next week. Still got two of his buddies and a sorc in the pipe. Not all that sold on him, but it was a quick build & paintjob.

>>52655101
>that's insane
Isn't that the whole point? I only do the oversized limbs for khorne, that's kinda his thing.
>the horns and skin kinda blend together
Absolutely true. I'll go ahead and blame it on the lack of proper highlights, might also need to add some strong tone to the horns later.

>>52655189
I like it

>>52655013
The most effective and least harmful paint stripper I've used is Simple Green. I know it's an american product, but I've heard the same formula is being sold in some countries in europe in art supply stores. Either way, a plastic container, drop your minis in there, cover them with the fluid and let soak for a day or two. Then gently brush off the paint with a tooth brush. Then wash the mini in warm water with a drop of dishwasher liquid and finally just rinse it in clean water. Depending on what colours have been used you might want to go over it with a toothpick and gently scrape any stubborn paint out of the tiniest crevices.

Simple green and similar formulas are also very kind to your senses and you can work with it without using gloves. You can also read bus time tables afterwards without trouble, unlike with alcoholic substances.

>>52655013
Lye heavy wood soap, soak in a bag with air squeezed out, after a day most paint will just slough off.

>>52652958
Are these Doom guy?

>>52655130
Not to sound rude, but if you had read it at all you surely would have been able to figure that out, no?
The part in parenthesis was probably added by a non native speaker.

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Captain Renatus, my first large scale limb-hacking of a Warzone plastic Imperial. This plastic is hard, so I had to use a saw to cut off his left arm. The replacement arm is a combo of a Tempestus Scion shoulder pad and the Cadian bionic power-sword arm. Green stuff covers up where I hacked up the shoulder pads.

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>>52656217
Renatus from the front (and sans backpack). Do you think that the bionic arm is too pushed out from the body?
Also, I'm concerned that the original, flat shoulder pad looks awkward on top of the bionic shoulder.
Do you think that the two shoulder pads look goofy?

>>52656338
either way, the new shoulder needs to be higher

>>52656412
That's a good suggestion, I'll see what I can do to move it up.
Thanks!

>>52656338
I'd remove the flat upper pad. It looks awkward with both. I also agree with this guy>>52656412
Move the arm up after you take the old pad off.

>>52655104
Anyone know what the active ingredient(s) are in this? Was going to poke around for a stateside equivalent.

>>52657895
More importantly, what's the active ingredient?

>>52655400
Does it need to be concentrate? I have Simple Green lying around for household use, but it's just the spray bottle stuff.

Also, if I cover the container (closed tupperware, in other words) will it be an issue?

>>52658061
I left some nids in a container of Simple Green closed and sealed for 2+ years. Paint came off effortlessly and they were still in good condition.

You will need the Concentrate.

>>52658120
Well, that's a pain. Guess I'll be going to Lowes sooner than I planned on.

>>52657895
>>52657991
Hmm. Found a forum post claiming the active ingredient in Wilko is benzyl alcohol... poking around Home Depot's website for something compatible.

>>52654244

Comrade where did fur hat of coming from?

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>>52659005
Is of glorious Pig Iron, tovarich

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I've finished the first half. R8
>>52659005
They're pig iron heads, they're fantastic. I bought 40 but I might buy more along with some helmeted heads

>>52660048
Fucking hell from the thumbnail I though it was a white girl with skinny legs wearing a green short dress that ends in little pleats taking a photo of her thighs

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They plastic cadians match pretty nicely to the metal valhallan, slightly taller and look less warm, but I guess since they're conscripts they have shit gear.
>>52660097
I don't see it

>>52660136
I've probably just spent too much time on /s/

>>52660136
>second from the right
HE'S BACK

>>52660188
He never left you
He's always here, in this thread
Watching, waiting, telling you to thin your paints

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Why do people think their shitty conversions/painting are worth this much? Like how do you even think that one model is this valuable?

>>52660207
thats probably a meme listing.

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>>52655013
Depends upon what materials we're talking about. Plastic or resin, I use pic related. You can get this jug down at the local dollar store, as well as a cheap plastic tub to toss it all in to.

If you've got metal duders, I'd say straight acetone. You can get a decent container for a couple of bucks down at Walmart in the beauty and nail section, but you're gonna want a metal container for it, because you'll fuckin' NUKE any sort of plastic. Resin doesn't really fare well either, which is why I'd only recommend it for metal minis. Shit works like a dream, though.

>obtain painted Skaven unit from dad's shop
>strip em
>discover mold lines on literally every model
Why.

For my Terrorgheist, I'm gonna have him holding a beheaded Skaven troop. However, I'm unsure what to do with the rat's hands with daggers. Do I allow them to remain in a defensive position, implying he fought to the very last or would the Terrorgheist be smart enough to remove tbe daggers? Any ideas?

>>52660207
Christ, that looks horrible and I'm a novice that couldn't do any better yet.

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First attempt at doing flesh differently than gw tutorials. I was going for a more "realistic" leathery flesh look. What do you think? Also incoming is pic of Arch Warlock for CnC

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>>52660207

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>>52660649
Calling him pretty much done, still need to touch up a few areas and add some nikalakh oxide (don't have the paint) and seal him up but I'm pretty happy with how he came out. Was going for a very cobbled together look

>>52660649
That's quite nice, I like it.

>>52660649
My back is now tingling from staring at that scarification.

So good job I think.

>>52660805
Thanks anon!

>>52661152
That's what I was going for! I want you to feel genuinely bad for these hulking monstrosities . Thank you!

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And the second baddie, trying to go for a more lively bruised look on him. The picture is making him quite a bit brighter than I he is IRL bit I think it came out nice and horrible.

1/2

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2/2

>>52660207
Does this shit sell at all? Because I'm actually pretty fair with conversions. But if I can shit something dumb out with no effort and make money, I'd do it.

>>52661931
Honestly selling things as "pro painted" is much better. Guy at my lgs regularly buys and paints armies only to sell them on ebay for 50% profit. The paintjob is decent quality sure, but nothing to write home about. Usually just 3 colors, wash and highlight

His secret is his GF is a professional photographer

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Inspiration for a Dark Mechanicus army

>>52654639
>>52654681

Fuck this.
https://mega.nz/#F!hEUhGZAD!Mqx_Xc2wNqdnLwVMMvijxg

>>52662650
Really tempted to get some stuff for 30k, or Kriegers. Even more so no that Z has switched to plastic and not resin.

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>>52662886
Most of his stuff is still resin, but if you look around yoyhammer and figure out what he's doing in plastic, those recasts can be fucking amazing quality.

>>52662923
Yeah, as I was typing I realised it's probably only his lost recent casts that are in plastic.
Or can he turn his whole range into plastic, given enough time? Plastic Kriegers would sell like there's no tomorrow.

>>52662969
Tell him this! Seriously, I'll buy a whole 2000pt army of plastic kriegers

>>52662923
>>52662969
>>52663232
I thought casting in plastic was a huge pain in the dick. How is he managing it?

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Night Lord anon here with progress.

I'm not too thrilled about the lightning, but the humidity fucky right now. I couldn't keep a good tip.

>>52663434

Another pic that isn't so grainy.

I've never done piece mail before. Do I need tondo anything before gluing on shoulders/head?

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>>52663463
Fuck everything.

>>52663397
Fuck if I know. But just judging by how much money my local gaming group alone is shoving down his throat, I'm guessing that he's got the means to do whatever the fuck he wants, given that he's located in China.

>>52663529
Yeah, wouldn't be surprised if our little chinese worker managed to step up his game. He's moving up in th world. If he starts churning out plastic casts of resin stuff, he'll have a legit flourishing business. Hell, I'd make the jump too. Plasic over resin any day.

>>52660670
the armor on his wrist isnt suppost to go like that man, its meant to flush down also staff is bent to shite but i guess its skaven so thats fine

>>52660668
Move past and heal mister skeltel

>>52661825
What kit is that from, exactly? I'd like to use that blade arm for soms kitbashing.

>>52655189
Lovely job.

>>52662505
jesus, what IS it?

>>52664290
Not him, but I got mine from the Island of Blood set

>>52661886
>>52661825
>>52660649
Nice. If you're really going for realistic flesh, try dabbing in a bit (less than a part) of medium green into your base tones. The GW flesh colors have always looked like they're a straight mix of red and some sort of yellow, real flesh tones have a tiny bit of green.

>>52662923
>>52662886
>>52662969
>>52663232
>>52663397

Everything he produces is still resin. Some of his newer stuff looks like plastic though. Please for the love of everything wear a mask when working with chinacast.

>>52664859
Nobody said the opposite. We were just wondering
A) How he casts in plastic?
B) If he could cast older, non plastic stuff in plastic, which would negate the disadvantages of resin

>>52664693
Thanks.

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>>52664859
Dude.
If this (head and cowl) is resin then it's not like any resin I've ever worked with. No flash, no bubbles, no release agent, no 'resin smell', NOTHING.

>Please for the love of everything wear a mask when working with chinacast.
Always.

>>52665004
>>52664859
That sure as hell doesn't look like resin; maybe the dude's just really on top of his vacuum degassing game.

>>52665004
Oh hey, I remember you posting an unassembled progess pic of this thing. You finish painting it yet?

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>>52665099
>You finish painting it yet?

Sure did

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Do you guys like my skitarii ally/sneaky gsc chimera?

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>>52665429
Different angle

>>52665429
Could use a drop of nuln around all of those rivets.

>>52655013
>>52655400
Last week I used simple green to strip a necron army off of ebay. Poured a gallon in a 5 gal Home Depot bucket with my crons and left them for 2 or 3 days, paint came of very nicely.

>>52665231
Damn awesome, my dude.

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>>52665442
One more, close up on turret.

>>52665004

If it's from Z then it is resin. I'm just really 'protective?' of people when it comes to china cast.
I've overcome lung cancer cause i used to work in a factory that produced alot with the same resins they use over there. Safety wasn't really a big thing for me back then. The new plastic like material he uses is a type of resin and is still a very harmful carcinogen, I just dont want people to let their guard down cause they think he uses GW plastic.

Anyway absolutely amazing model!

>>52664975
Z's upped his game fantastically. Not entirely sure what method he uses but it's nigh spot to how GW produces theirs. He even casts most things on sprue now as well.

>>52655013
If you're in the UK then Dettol is a pretty great paint cleaner that's easily available and not too expensive.
>>52665711
One of my main reasons for not buying chinacast is doubt over the material. The other is the probable child/ slave labour involved.

>>52665429
>>52665442
>>52665540
It's a solid airbrushed/10

Looks good for a start, but it looks very flat. You need to go back with a brush and do a recess wash and highlight the rivets.

>>52665794
>child/slave labour
I-is this true? I really hope not.

>>52665831
Yeah i did a few recess washes. The lighting dulls it a bit. I suppose I should do the rivets.

>>52665844
We can only hope it's true.

Seriously though, most of your belongings were probably made by Asian children.

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Has anyone printed out banners before and used them on their minis? Do you matte varnish them to keep them stiff?

>>52665882
It's too early in the morning for this kind of nostalgia and childish giggling.

Hey fuckos
Show me some cool cultist models. Games Workshop, other manufacturer, anything that fits the part

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>>52666027

>>52665231
what is this model? it looks like tomb kings and chaos space marines at the same time.

>>52665882
>Invaders

Fucking kek

>>52666056
Kitbash of a Forgefiend and a Necrosphinx

>>52665711
Question. I know "always wear a mask" is a big deal for people. Do you need it when all you're doing is cutting with a hobby knife/clipping? I'm asking retroactively, since I've had to work in my bedroom (I clean up fairly well so I'm not super worried) without a mask for a few kits. Never filed or sawed, though.

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The fallen shall be forever remembered as the emperor's finest

>>52663463
Plastic glue melts acrylic paints, best to shave off the contact points to clean plastic and use super glue instead.

>>52663467
>>52663434
Looks fucking super my dude. I think the lightning is maybe a lil' messy but I think it looks really good all the same. It doesn't look cartoony like a lot of people.

>>52664975
>"New" Resin Thunderhawk comes out
>Z turns it into a Plastic-Resin beauty
>Sells more than GW ever will

That'd be fun.

>>52666208
The Emperor's finecast.

>>52666328
yes, it is forgeworld.

>>52665882
PVA Glue works well (called )craft glue in some countries). don't thin the glue with water though because the water soaks in and will ruin the banner.
however I have to warn you if you glue it, it'll get really brittle.

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>>52665882
I experimented with something like that a few years back.
I mean printing out banners is a tried and true method. Just print it so you can sandwitch it around the banner poles and glue it with PVA.
If you feel like making it look more painted adding a few strokes with a brush here and there before varnishing can make it look like it was painted by hand too.

What I did here was trying to make a banner out of plastic and glue the printout to that.
I didn't consider that the plastic would warp and shrink the way I heated it.
A salt bath would have probably been a better idea.

Anyway printed banners used to be a hobby staple back in the day. The old codecies and armybooks used to come with a page of templates even and during 2nd edition there were banner printed on sticker paper in the boxes.

>>52665231
I'm currently in the process of making a maulerfiend with this, but may magnitize the arms and stuff.

>>52660606
Bump

>>52660606
>>discover mold lines on literally every model
>Why.
only means for you the haven't been fucked up by someone who doesn't know what he's doing.
It's a good think in my book anyway.

As for the pose, I'd go with whatever looks more natural or dramatic.
If you plan on having the head already ripped off then a more relaxed pose would make more sense.
Unless you are going for a kodak moment decaptiation thing, where it just happened. But then you need to make the blood splatter etc look convincing.

>>52662886
>>52662923
>>52662969
>>52663232
>>52663397
>>52664975

The possibility of getting resin models in plastic is pretty much zero.

Resin and plastic are two very different materials, the moulds they use are also quite different.
Plastic uses die cut two part injection moulds. Given that the moulds are stiff the sprues also have to be quite plain, removing the possibility of undercuts, some forms of ecessed details or even any substantial detail along the axis of where both halves meet. In a way, plastic is easier to mass produce, but the models have limited detail and there's some shortcomings that can't be dealt with.

Resin on the other hand, is casted on soft silicone moulds, which have both better detail threshold and allow for more intricate designs to be casted, which removes a lot of limits in what can be done with them, the problem is that silicone moulds require some more upkeep, they wear out faster and sometimes can even have small breaks, which in turn will make any further casts less faithful to the original.

Resin itself also takes much more detail than plastic, or even metal for what it's worth, which would result in some pretty awkward casts.

So far, Z has started casting in plastic some of the products that were originally plastic, however, he's also gotten a much better resin, that's less smelly, more flexible, easier to cut and overall better, which might explain why some people believe he's now doing full plastics.

>>52660670
It was like that when I got him , first metal model and all so I wasn't really ready to deal with it. Especially since this guy is apparently a shitty cast. The claw doesn't look very good but the bent staff doesn't bother me all that much.

>>52664290
Island of blood and or spire of dawn. Be warned you only get 1.

>>52664859
why does it matter? inhaling the smell? really dont see it being an issue at all unless your sanding resin.

Any tips for transferring Citadel paints to dropper bottles?

>>52667456
Yeah okay, that's what I thought, he's soing plastic stuff but only for stuff that was already plastic. Shame.
Thanks for the clarification.

>>52654985
If he's VDV shouldn't his hat be at least a pale blue if not also a beret?

>>52667456
That also means we might start seeing much cheaper standard plastic dudes.

>>52662505
Don't forget his brother!
https://youtu.be/3NIg0vOetHo?t=7m37s

What's a good, simple way to get a nice Metallic blue?
I'm trying to do Tzeentch Chaos Warriors.

>>52668256
Tamiya Spray Paints
TS-19, TS-53 or TS-54, all 3 types of metallic blue available in rattlecans.

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>>52668256
Bright silver and blue ink.
Tamiya clear does a bunch of color clear coats too that might work well.

I recently stumbled over a recommendation for Vallejo Air Model Color Silver.
It's a super bright and shiny metal color. Might be worth a though if you don't have a bright metal yet.

You can also get metallic medium to mix into blue paint, but you'll get more of a glitter in the paint effect rather than an actual blue metallic look.

>>52665882
>>52665919
Lord, those runes...
>sergal + oglaf + trollerkoaster + thorpe is a dumbass + moot + the game + horo + erpderp + pedobear + (bin? bæn? bïn? ban?) + rofl + just as planned amiritelol + fag + sup teegee + what the fuk
It's like being a /tg/ archaeologist

>>52668347
Do you know what the base coat is on those spoons.

>>52668640
http://www.mvpfigure.com/gundam-model-tutorial/airbrush-tutorial-how-to-create-mirror-chrome-effect-by-nanxnei-studio/

>>52665844

Wow, are you retarded? You're like that dumb white kid in one of my classes who thought niggers being attacked by police dogs and riot hoses wasn't real even though there's fucking video footage of it.

You recastfags are so fucking stupid, Jesus Christ. If it's not you morons posting shitty photos of how crappy your casts are then saying "I NEVER SAID THEY WERE GOOD", it's you guys bullshitting about how Z isn't complete garbage like right now.

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>>52669120

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>>52669120

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Trying to figure out what colour this armour is. It's a stoney teal colour but I'm not quite sure how to hit it.

I have him pre shaded on my desk right now and wanting to have a plan before I hit something so big.

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>>52669120
How nice for you

>>52664510
That's a Hexbug with a shell around it.

>>52668681
Thank you!

>>52665794
>>52665844
>>52665878
Lads, those kids would be starving to death if they weren't working. Your little figurines keep that kid from dying.

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>>52665882
>Do you matte varnish them to keep them stiff?

Use rubber cement to attach the printed banner to some heavier paper, then cut out the heavier paper around it in the shape you want. I suppose you could try printing on the heavier paper to start with, but the printer might not handle that the way you want it to.

This one I actually printed out the art from one of the books in grayscale and then painted it, but I imagine the process would be similar.

>>52666208
I wish GW or FW sold Horus Heresy marine casualties

>>52669205
Looks like a neutral grey shaded with purple and then worked up to a teal/grey green, yeah. Shouldn't be too hard to achieve.

>>52666286
>Sells more than GW ever will
>implying

There are more legitimate titan owners than recast ones, even though recasts are a billion times cheaper.

It's because there are more people willing to pay $600-$1,000 for a genuine titan than there are people willing to drop $300-600 on a recast titan.

The kind of people who buy recasts won't want to buy an expensive, useless model. The kind of people who will buy an expensive, useless model would probably want a genuine one. The Thunderhawk is really, really bad. It's practically a paperweight with how bad its rules are.

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Made these guys for a painting modelling competition, for armageddon. problem is they would look much better on a scenic 40mm base than the 28mm one, on which I barely have place to justify there wierd feed positions.

>>52669521
I was talking in the hypothesis that Z could do some chink magic and turn resin models into flawless plastic.
But, as another anon said, that just ain't possible.

>>52669870
>dismissing superior Chinese alchemy
Go fuck yourself, gwailo.

>>52654230
What are some essential tutorials for someone new to painting minis?

>>52669946
Dunc your models.
https://www.youtube.com/user/GamesWorkshopWNT/search?query=paint

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What would be the GW equivalent of the paints used here? I normally use Vallejo products but I'm out of greys and getting non-gw paints takes about a week where I live

>>52669946
Watch Duncan's tutorials, A LOT of them. I spent several months watching them again and again before I actually ordered anything. That helped a lot.

You can also go to your local GW and ask for some painting lessons. It's faster.

>>52670030
Closest gw is a three hour drive so ive never been

>>52669637
So.. pathfinders from the D'eer sept?

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>>52670071
>So.. pathfinders from the D'eer sept?

Deer lord!

Hey /Wip/, any tips or ideas on how to base in the style of rained on pine forest? Im trying to go for a US pacific northwest vibe for my army and im a but stumped on how to achieve the effect.

>>52669637
How'd you do the cloaks?

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>>52670024
Best I can do buddy. You'll have to type in each paint in Google and see painted minis with each colour.

DONT use any Space wolf named paints though ( Russ grey, the fang, fenrisian grey). Because they'll be a pale blue grey.

>>52670159
Tin Foil, and a coating of liquid greenstuff.
It works out allright, but my method of cutting out a rectangle, fitting it around the body and cutting away isn't really satisfying since a lot folds appear.

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Currently starting up an Inquisition KT, 40k army. Played Imp Guard back in the day but never really painted. My current plan is to play it heavy Acolyte modeled off of Cadian shock troops, which I would LIKE to attempt in a pic relatedish colorscheme. Using white for the fatigues with a blue/grey camo pattern. Death World Forest for the armor, helmet, belts and etc. So my question is anyone have any suggestions on where to start for GW colors for the camo pattern? Also, are there any particular pointers for white cloth so it doesn't look like blobby and awful? Or particular washes that work well with it?

>>52670146

Gloss varnish, scenic water effects, darker less vibrant green, darker brown dirt and soil, "clear" oil streak weathering to show rain drips.

Starting my skitarii army this weekend and I'm not sure how my color scheme should be, for now I'm thinking of having my cloaks be a nice dark red with the armor having a lot of brass on it, but I'm not sure if those colors will work together, another option is dark red and gold. I'm making vanguard a dune Walker and rust stalkers in this style.

>>52670555
Well it might work if you contrast it with a dark saturated blue/green steel or grey

>>52666124
Question-bump.

>>52670692
no, it's the microparticulates that are carcinogenic.

Never work in your bedroom though, you spend 8 hours a day there with reduced cough reflex.

>>52669637
why do they have horns?

>>52670692
If your scraping moldlines with the back of the knife, then maybe yes. Theer are two sources of Bad Stuff Getting Into Your Body from resin, first being microparticles as per >>52670755 and can be prevented with something as simple as a paper mask. "Large" chunks sliced off won't be a problem, but stuff you scrape off could. (Sidenote: this is true of many particulates, even sawdust can fuck you your lungs with cancer)

The other one, which you're less likely to encounter, is fumes while casting, at which point you should be using mask with an actual filter.

>>52666124
>Do you need it when all you're doing is cutting with a hobby knife/clipping?

No, the "dust" from scraping and clipping is too heavy to get into your lungs. You only need a respirator mask with filters when using aerosols or spraypaints, and a regular mask like you see doctors or sick people use to keep stuff out of your nose when airbrushing or sanding/filing resin.

If you are scared about it, you can do it while the model is wet to prevent any airborne particulate, but at the cost of having more slippery things to work with and gunking up your tools.

I only wear a mask when spraying or working with resin. Because I am usually sanding while I am clipping, I just keep the mask on. Forge World has an official statement saying their resin is non-toxic though so even without a mask you might be okay, but I've heard of people getting headaches and nosebleeds from breathing in Forge World resin dust. Who knows maybe they're just lying faggots using cancerous recasts.

>>52670878
Non-toxic is one thing but it's still dust you're inhaling, stone dust is not-toxic too but stone lung still kills.

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>>52670094
why doe?

>>52665937
Nice Mansions of madness paint job. I love that game.

>>52670878
>nosebleeds
Jesus fuck can recasts be that killy?

Man, Al Assad didn't use the right weapons, gaz is too obvious, he should have dumped Z's dust on those poor fucks

>>52671339
Nah, nosebleeds are common with airborne irritants.

Heavy pollen on a dry day has me popping a vessel on a daily basis.

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>it's an Emma episode

>>52670382
>Also, are there any particular pointers for white cloth so it doesn't look like blobby and awful? Or particular washes that work well with it?
Don't use white.
Use a grey, a darker grey and a light blue. Then wash that with a diluted black wash. Should be enough to give some definition, but not so much that it tints the camo dark.
Secret Weapon miniatures sells a wash like that premade.
Then do the green bits.

The problem with using pure white is you cannot highlight it anymore and it looks artificial at that scale cause it drowns out the natural shadows.

>>52671174
Cheers mate, very fun game, 1st ed and 2nd.

>>52670024
The paints from >>52670204 you will need from the grey are dawnstone, administartum grey, and ulthuan grey. Layer them up in that order with standard shading and painting techniques and you should get a similar if not the same result for the lighter markings. Be kind of sparing with ulthuan though it is pretty white, I actually use it as white on my models and do a fine edge highlight with white scar. For the darker parts base black then dawnstone layer all over, shade, back to dawnstone, highlight administratum.

Hope that helps!

>>52670755
>Never work in your bedroom though
I live in less than 110 square feet. I don't exactly have another room to work in. And of course, my shop wouldn't take too kindly to the appearance of Chinacast in their shop when they're already struggling. charge less than "full retail plus tax" and I might buy more, lgs owner
I've got a decent mask now, though, so if I ever do find decent workspace I'm good to go. Finished my current resin batch besides priming a dreadnought anyway, so I'll just not pick any more up for a while.

>>52671651
My favourite wash for white is the one Forge World use on their World Eaters. 1:1:1:1 Nuln Oil/Drakenhof Nightshade/Lahmnian Medium/Water. Makes for quite a cool white, if you're going for something warmer I'd consider very thinned Seraphim Sepia with perhaps a tiny yellow or orange tint (Cassandora Yellow or Fuegan Orange) mixed in. I may try that and see how it turns out.

>>52671738
Remember that it's not only during the act that resin is dusy is dangerous, but also after. Having a mask is nice and dandy, but pretty useless when you end up sleeping in the same room is filed models a few hours before.
Hence, have a window opened, do it in a very small soace that you can easily vacuum afterwards.

>>52671951
sanding wet is also not a bad idea.

I've got a pair of secondhand Warmachine colossals that are a bit overprimed. Does anyone know if Privateer Press resin would react poorly to an overnight bath in Super Clean degreaser?

>>52671972
Exactly. Sure it's not as "easy" to get the hang of, but it's much safer.

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laying down the freehand on my Naut. still going to do some more dags and stars here and there, maybe some hazard stripes

Anyone ever repaint or touch up paint on heroclix or mageknight stuff? Any tips? Should I remove then prime? or just touch up? I just bought a big lot on ebay, and some of them don't look so great, I plan on rebasing them and using them for rpg minis.

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>>52671972
>>52671951
Yep! I wipe my work surface down, vacuum, the whole nine yards. I've worked on one wet model, and it ended up... Okay, I guess. The waist I had to cut looked a little rough but he turned out okay, since the axe hid it. (I'm mobileposting, please forgive potential orientation problems.)

>>52672527
You sure that front wheel is in right?

>>52654485
Look at the Rhebok kit from Ramshackle studios. Lots of pieces that would work well (and Ramshackle sells parts individually).

>>52672734
Funny enough, it is. There's no other way for it to install. The mounting point is off-center by a good 3mm. How I have it is accurate to the instruction sheet, as well as references for assembly I pulled up.

Trust me, I had the same thought. It's not glued in place, so I can still rotate it lower if need be, but it's perfectly seated in the assembly slot.

>>52672886
The Outrider bike comes with a little part that's supposed to cover that so it looks natural.

>>52672958
Well, my recaster left that piece out from the looks of it. I'll check the bag when I get home, but I used everything except the alternate guns, I thought.

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>>52672986
You can see it here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEGmUqxC_s4
what is the exact name of this miniature he's painting here, I can't understand what he's saying

>>52673218
its one of the stormcast minis from age of sigmar, maybe a liberator

>>52673218
>what is the exact name of this miniature he's painting here
no clue
>I can't understand what he's saying
'using a medium layer brush for the stormcast miniature I'm using in my example'.

>>52673152
>doomed to have the old, badly cast angular plastic bikes forever
>the sleek good looking fw bikes are expensive as shit and in resin

Life is suffering.

>>52671951

>openly sand chinashit in my room without a mask.

I guess I can stop dieting since I'm not going to live long enough for heart problems to get me.

>>52673413
rip anon

>>52671491
link?

>>52673337
>>52673350
thanks guys

>>52673413
You're done for I'm afraid. The little chink are already in their way to pick your corpse and grind it into yet more resin.

So im trying to do Imperial Guard styled up like Korean War US soldiers, all decked out with ponchos and shit. Any ideas for how to actually do that?

>>52673669
Bodies and helmets can probably be found on Victoria's site, and ponchos can be fone by using >>52670247 technique I guess.

>>52673653

I'm curious about what the actual danger rates are. Like, sanding the moldlines off ten space marines from Z is equivalent to how many cigarettes?

>>52673152
Checking back in now that I'm home: I found the pieces, and I'll get 'em mounted once I have a chance. Thanks for pointing them out; they should fit underneath.

>>52673399
CCON is doing 40% off on the 14th. Go order a pile of Legion Outriders while you have the chance.

>>52673761
Depends on many factors. The actual resin, I doubt he mixes it exactly the same 24/7, the state of your lungs, weyher you do sport or not, your general environment, country side comapred to cities, wether you snort that shit or just lightly catch a passing whiff etc
In any case, just wear a mask, do it somewhere else than your bedroom, open a window, clean with wet sponge/tissue and vacuum when done.

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I've been painting skitarii vanguard lately and I would like some tips. I've discovered that nuln oil gives the coat an oil stained appearance and I've been using that.

Anyone have a decent tutorial for a sort of cinnamon type skintone, I can paint pale skintones no problem but I've never really tried darker ones and i'm not sure where to start

>>52674223
There's that thing called youtube anon. Duncan did 2 or 3 dark skin tutorials already.

>>52670146

I've not tried it, but I'd be tempted to try grinding up some pencil shavings for pine needles.

>>52673669
>styled up like Korean War US soldiers
If you can't find actual minis for that I think warlord has a plastic kit with german troops that wear ponchos.

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>>52670146
Not sure what it would be called in English, but the product name is in the filename.
Basically woodchippings that you'd commonly use in model railroading.
If you put some of this stuff into a plastic container with some paint you could get different colors out of it too. Aside from being available prepainted anyway.

Guess you'd do the regular sand and paint thing, adding the usual forest floor stuff like broken branches here and there and then add another layer of acrylic medium and throw some of these things on.
Add some indentations on some bases to do puddles in it would look alright I guess.

Find some good reference pictures, maybe there's some other ideas you can find there.

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Had an idea for a late-Heresy death guard praetor, converting and kitbashing nurgle is always fun.

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>>52672167

That's an amazing job!

I'm working on a banner, but i need a better brush for letters

>>52672167
Thats rad, are you going to chip the checkers?

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>>52673669
Forgot to include image for reference. So far I havent found any correct sized minis of Korean war Infantry and im still scanning through bitz sites and a few others but so far i havent found anything that matches the look. If push comes to shove I can try out the prievously mentioned green stuff on tin foil option but i want. If any one else has any other ideas or suggestions im all ears

>>52674223
Show me your light skin tones. I'm starting up dark eldar soon and I can't stand how Duncan does them

>>52667306
Hm, I'll have to fiddle around with Skaven I have. I think I have something in mind.

>>52674653
I use a brown 0.5 and even lower markers, the ones you use for technical drawing in architecture

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>>52675334
probably not what you had in mind but when I do pale not human skin I just use Rakarth Flesh and add white

>>52665540
>>52665540
Go take a look at the Forgeworld Modeling masterclass books. You've got a great starting point right now, but with some considered weathering you could make a really nice model.

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>>52674571
Definitely what I'd do if I go with Nurgle

>>52676110
Where do the heads come from? I have ideas for them.

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Got the Space Marine+Paint starter set for my birthday, first time painting miniatures.I made a few mistakes during the painting but overall I had a lot of fun! I'm gonna do some more touch-ups tomorrow.

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Any one bought from Shapeways? Got cool custom bits but I'm not sure on quality of 3d printed stuff.
Also have you seen this totally-not-celestine?

>>52659225

Glorious indeed

>>52676129
They look like blightkin heads, perhaps even from the Glottkin rider/s

>>52676279
These are pretty fantastic for a first time painter. Water down black wash and get into the crevaces to create depth.

>>52676279
Is that one on the right supposed to be holding something?

>>52676645
Krak grenade

>>52676628

Thanks anon, will do.

Also just to add, some of the paint in the kit was kind of shitty like the imperial primer for example was completely solid and dry so I couldn't use it. I basically made do with what I had.

>>52676645

Yeah I noticed when I took that picture, completely forgot about it and the skull on the dude's forehead. I will fix them tomorrow!

>>52676279
I dunno if it's due the pic, but you thinned your paints pretty well

>>52676521
Google around for images.
Pop goes the monkey and Plokoone seem to be the go--to guys for space marine bits atm.
There are also ships for battlefleet gothic and other stuff.

From what I've seen the frosted ultra detail looks alright, but as a somewhat rough texture.
Maybe that could be resolved with a bit of fine sanding or a cottonswap loaded with acetone or something like that.

>>52676129
The one on the left is a blight king head, the right is otto glott from the glottkin

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>>52674821
I said it before, but in case you missed it:
German Grenadiers from Warlord.
Just about the only miniatures wearing ponchos I can think of.
There's also a plastic box.
All are part of the separate head system so you can swap the helmets against american ones.
If you want to go more 40k Victoria Miniatures rifle arms would look pretty alright on warlord stuff I think.

Most of them don't wear the ponchos the way the guy in you image does, but for obvious reasons making miniatures like that is a bit difficult.

>>52676700
Still looks great!

Are we allowed to trade here? I have a good bit of Bolt Action stuff I'd love to trade for 40k and WH stuff.

>>52677036
Yeah there's an email field for a reason

>>52670858
Paper masks don't do shit. They make you feel safe while offering almost no protection from the dangerous stuff.

>>52677247
Yeah, but fairly new to WIP so wasn't sure it was allowed. Thanks though.

>>52676521
It's unfortunately expensive to produce so the prices are higher than I'd like but the detail of Frosted Ultra and Frosted Extreme is pretty good. You should wash your parts in warm soapy water and give them a gentle brushing though. There aren't any mold lines but there can be some chalky white residue that needs a gentle scrape with a knife.

Shapeways themselves aren't too stingy about replacing parts as long as you provide a picture of the defects.

Are there any good books about sculpting and scratchbuilding/kitbashing? Forgive me if they're in the links, I'm looking through them quite slowly.

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Do not weep for me, for I am already dead.

3 Custodes MKIIB Land Raiders to primarily use in 40k, but will be allied in to my 30k army; the transfer sheets will help break up the colors.

So much work to do now...

ok, newbie painter here
can anyone help a dude with only gros motoric skills, how to paint eyes on citadel miniatures?

>>52679164
Small brush, small amount of paint.
Thin paint with water slightly.
1 block in eyeball black.
2 block in white, make sure black edge can still be seen.
3 make small dot in center of eye, making sure it is lined up properly so he looks forward.
Practice is needed. If you want to put out a lot of ordinary good models, you can just forget about them, no one can see them from tabletop height. Ballance paintbrush hand on model hand, elbows on the table, hold breath. (this should help with motor skills.)

Holy shit I just got a set of Winsor and Newton Series 7 and they are fucking magical. Fuck those who told me that I didn't need to get expensive brushes that cheap brushes are fine with good technique, they don't know shit.

>>52679577
I agree, better to spend more on brushes than to cheap out and end up with a shitty paint job.

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Ayup lads, it's me again.
Did I do well?

>>52679612
I'm starting to think that those people are just too poor to afford good brushes and shit on them.

>>52679577
>>52679612
>>52679656
Maybe I just haven't attained a level where it matters yet, but I don't see that much difference in the end result between using the cheap 1 pound brush and those.

Good on you though, you're probably using more advanced techniques than me.

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>>52679765
You have to be trolling man. Brush control is leaps ahead of any cheap brush you can find.
Are you taking care of your brushes properly?

>>52679765
meh...
if you dont ever plan on getting better than it doesnt really matter all that much, but as someone who uses both, I wouldn't use the cheap ones for technique painting or details. likewise i don't ever use wn7 for base-coats.

Also being meticulous with your brushes bring the costs down significantly, as they last longer than any synthetic will. Learning to thin and mastering advanced technique is doable but less frustrating with real KSable, whether its the WN7 or Raphael s8404 and this is where the real difference is noticeable.

>>52679921
forgot, theres dirt cheap, and middle ground cheap. dont ever go dirt cheap; if its in a bag with more than 3 brushes dont bother.

>>52679884
I do actually, I'm so careful with my brushes I barely use the expensive ones, by fear of damaging them.

>>52679921
Exactly, I'm not saying that expensive brushes are useless, but for what I'm doing, i.e basecoat, wash, layering and simple highlights, it doesn't make that much difference. I do agree that it probably does with advanced techniques like glazing, NMM and such.

>>52676110
Ooh god inspiration, thanks.

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>start painting
>make progress
>squad base coated
>one model finished
>lose literally all motivation as depression in

>going through old bits and bobs in a clean out
>Find an old finecast Zoanthrope
>DEAR LORD THE HORROR

>>52680107
Do it one model at a time then. Batch painting is great for productivity but terrible for morale

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Wow Aetherwings are huge. Sister of Silence with a Deimos Rhino as a comparison.

Still have the clean them all.

>>52670774
>>52670943
Design choice so they stand out more

>>52680144

I base coated the squad at once, but fully planned on finishing models one at a time. I tried to sit down and work on the second one and just sat there for about 20 minutes

I'm building 40k Blood Angels, but really prefer Mk IV armour.

Would I be able to get away with mostly Heresy-era marks in 40k? I feel first founding chapters would have a lot more of that gear.

>>52681014
Your Dudes™.

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>>52681014
Of course.

Unless you're against an autist, people won't care.

And remember, if it's well painted, anything goes. As the other said, Your Dudes.

>>52681014
Only autismos will care, and if they screech they'll get kicked out of the store, and if you're not playing in a store why are you friends with such severe autismos?

On my Rokkit Launcha fig, I'm thinking about cutting away the molded power wires and replacing them with earplug cords after I paint him. I can't decide between yellow or blue cords. Thoughts?

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First time greenstuffing how'd I do?

>>52681360
It needs smoothing out, but a pretty solid effort friend.

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I've messed up..

Is there any way to remove the Armageddon Dust without harming the paint underneath too much?
Or do I need to strip it all off and do the whole cloak again if I don't want the dust on it?

>>52681379
How do you smooth out? I tried using water and tools but I just couldn't get it to work. Thinking i'll leave it and then file it down.

>>52681382
Doesn't look that bad to me.

>>52681435
It might not look that bad, but I dont want it on the cloak anymore.

>>52681038
God, everytime I see those...nnnggghh

>>52681038
Are these custom bits? Some of the heads look great and the magazine hand is awesome.

>>52681038
What color did you use to highlight the black?

>>52681535
That magazine holding hand is in the new SM tactical squad box by the way. I also think its pretty neat.

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>Not playing chaos
It's like you DON'T want to have naked demon ladies killing people at your side.

>>52681435
And by the way, thank you.

>>52681382
dont.
If you want to, however, dampen a rough brush, and go over the dust. recoat with red, and done!. IN FUTURE, HOWEVER, PREMAKE THE BASE, BUSH THE MINIS FEET INTO THE GUNK AS IT DRIES TO MAKE A DEPRESSION FOR THE FEET, PAINT UP THE BASE PROPERLY, AND GLUE THE MINI ON.

Any of you guys have any proper experience with greenstuff? I'm looking into modeling some cowboy hats and civil war kepis for my IG I frankly don't know where to start or to look for...

>>52681822
Make a flat piece of greenstuff by flattening. While still malleable, give it some curves like hats have. Then from there make the top part separate and then add together when both dry by fusing with some more greenstuff.

Or at least that's how I would do it but I'm a noob at greenstuff too

>>52665540
Why no wash? No rivets? No edge higlights?

Otherwise good AB job.

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I'm working on nurgle army, really lovin this.

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>>52682094
From top

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>>52682108
Nurglings, really like these little fellows. They bit lord celestant in leg and gave him aids.

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>>52682118
Still got putrid blightkings, herald and plague drones to do after these and i got myself old great unclean one as ebin generalissimo

>>52682143
Looks lövely. What shade(s) are you using?

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Hi guys, I need a suggestion. I'm using nids for shadow war, so I'm gonna change my warriors into a kill team (so I'm removing all the swords and whips for schyting talons). Now, what model do you think is best suited to be the leader? Asking before I start converting... I would think either the middle one or the one with the barbed stranglers...
Also, don't worry about the colors on the one to the right: it's a failed experiment, it will be repainted

>>52682174
Agrax Earthshade to details, then Athonian Camoshade with Lahmian Medium

>>52682302
Thanks! I might just steal it for my own nurglings.

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Can anyone identify where the legs that the Sergeant is using are from? In the Cadian Shock Troops box they don't have these legs.

>>52682977
They are the same legs as grenade launcher guy and the two guardsmen in the top right, he's just at a different angle to them.

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>>52683035
You sure? I've seen them used on other miniatures and these are on a frontal angle.

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Painted this swordman earlier today, I don't know why but I like his face

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What do you guys think of plasma core nurgles? blue and white. Image is photoshopped to see if colour scheme works... Suggested Citadel paints?

>>52683059
The legs in that picture have been converted somehow or other, they are definitely not the same as the sergeants legs.

Compare the sergeant to the other Cadians, especially the crease in the trousers on the right leg. I'm certain they are the same legs.

>>52679884
>Brush control is leaps ahead
Unless you want to freehand, in which case bendy-ass S7s are a pain

>>52680246
>>52680107
I'm there with you, man. I turn into a wreck as soon as painting enters the field, so I've got a ballooning backlog of half-assembled, primed minis that need paint before I can go any further, but 4 hours of painting in I've done half a single infantry model's basecoat. Every time.

>>52681716
He early hasn't got the brown paint on the cloak by accident, he's tried weathering and it looks bad.

>>52681637
>Juanettes
God I love them so, my chinaman makes them too so I really don't have an excuse to get some.

>>52667704
Yes.

Just get some 10 ml droppers off ebay.

Scrape the paint out of the lids little flat thing into the main pot before you pour it in. Then cut the label front off the GW container so your dropper is labeled.

>>52683473
I dunno what the hell you're talking about but there's always an excuse to stock up on more naked demon ladies.

>>52679437
ok, thanks
I guess I need to practice, and thanks for the tipp with the motor skills

I've got two CSM figs and one Raptor, with horrible paint jobs from 10 years ago. Four days in Simple Green ain't doing much. Keep em soaking or try something else?

I'm trying to think of a colour scheme for the start collecting militarum tempestus I got, i like the use of gold but want to spin off a bit from the blue, any idea?

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>>52684398
The most LOYAL of the Emperor's servants

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Hey guys.
Today my Pedro Kantor was in in the mail and I want to convert him into a Salamander captain.
But first I have to scrab off the Crimson fists parts off him.

>>52654398
yeah, that is pretty nice, doesn't look like you got paint everywhere, you thinned em, although it could do with basing.

>>52684914
>in the mail

You're lucky you got a new one that looks pretty decent. If you had gotten an older Finecast version it would be full of holes.

>>52655013
>>52655043
>>52655057
>>52655104
>>52660605

some time ago I asked what to buy in Berlin to remove acrylic paint from plastic miniatures, but I didn't save the answers.

can a kind anon help me please?

>>52655104
Found a flaw to this stuff.

Soaked a bunch of models over night and it turns the superglue rubbery. This isn't a problem but I've found in some cases it's turning the plastic touching the glue rubber as well. I need to do some more testing ont his but it ma case damage to models only where they're glued.

>>52685649
>using superglue
There's your flaw.

>>52685929
>using shit that melts your models

Sounds like a great plan, what could ever go wrong? Go back to your GW shit kid, some of us remember models when they were lead

>>52684914
Use a file, but be very careful. Finecast is soft so it's really easy to take off more than you want

Trying to find bits to build Earthshaker artillery carriages. Everywhere seems to be out of stock or out of the bits. Has anyone ever done something similar and can share what they did and what parts they used? I might just give up and pay the $100 per carriage FW charges at this point

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So, I'm a total shitter.

My process is a gray primer, a black wash, and then one layer of colors. I never figured out how to drybrush correctly and attempts at edge highlighting always made things worse rather than better, so I don't highlight at all. My three dozen Dark Angels are flat green armor, flat black pants, flat red gun, flat metallic bits, and so on. I've never based a model in my life. My primary concentration is occupied just with painting within the lines. Disembodied voices chant about thinning my paints as I fail to produce anything between so thick it's obviously wrong and so thin it runs everywhere. I made a makeshift wet palette from a sponge and parchment paper following a tutorial online, which now seemingly exists only to mock me even as it moistens my pigments.

But I'm buying a box of Tau for Shadow War: Armageddon, and I want to be more gooder and not just avoid doing things because I'm bad.

Help pls

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>>52686416
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLB0292071C3B38CAC

Watch basically all of this.
As for thinning, the key is that you want the paint to maintain its surface tension. If you're using a pot, take however many 'brush-fulls' of paint onto the palette, then add an equivalent number of 'brush-fulls' of water. Or with droppers equivalent drops. You want your paint to stay in a drop-shape, not get runny and watery.

For drybrushing, just wipe your brush on a paper towel after getting paint in it until very little comes off on the towel. Then roughly brush it over the surface you're trying to drybrush, like you're sweeping a floor. It's a messy imprecise technique so don't do it after you've done details and such.

Wet palettes aren't hugely important except for if you've got a certain mix of paints and don't want to have to replicate it because your old mix dried out.

Post a pic of one of your minis desu

Also if you just want to get something to tabletop acceptability, just:
Prime, basecoat everything the proper colors, apply wash. This gives you a good baseline miniature to then apply more advanced techniques to. After you've done those steps, try highlighting, glazing, et cetera

>>52686724
>glazing

What's that?

>For drybrushing, just wipe your brush on a paper towel after getting paint in it until very little comes off on the towel. Then roughly brush it over the surface you're trying to drybrush, like you're sweeping a floor. It's a messy imprecise technique so don't do it after you've done details and such.

I've followed tutorials before, I dunno. I get the concept I just can't seem to replicate the results of whatever tutorial I'm following.

>Post a pic of one of your minis desu

Sure, gimme about an hour.