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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 360
Thread images: 97

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Last one is just about dead, let the new blood in!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Good songs are forever evergreen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhwXxjiqDEU

>>Previous threads
>>51849581
>>
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Kicking it off with my now finally finished OOP deff dread, show your WAAAGH! face.
>>
Just got finished priming my Engineer's guild for Guild Ball.

Steamforged makes some wonderfully detailed minis, but they can't do contact points for shit.

I almost lost my god damned mind trying to get a single arm on a mini to stay in fucking place.

It's all done now and I have to paint, problem is the minis are so fucking heavy and the poses so dynamic, they won't stay upright when shoved in sticky tack to use as a base for manipulating the mini when painting.

What do you bro's recommend for keeping a mini to a base (like a pill bottle or something) when painting for manipulation when sticky tack doesn't cut the mustard?
>>
>>51868580

Congrats, I got Tetanus just from looking at that thing. I got the feeling that is what you were going for, and if that is the case, fucking nailed it.
>>
>>51868580
I need myself a lightbox, no sunshine in brutal finnish winter, and my camera picks on even smallest glint of metal...
>>
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What brand of primer do you use? New to painting. Will this in red work for dark eldar?
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>>51868666

I go with Tamiya for primer and sealers and shit like that.

Hasn't done me wrong yet.
>>
>>51868666
I used to use it without any real issues, though in black. I moved to their black camo primer and it's like night and day. Check it out.
>>
Anyone have any tips for making dipped miniatures dry faster?
>>
>>51868742

Thin your minis.
>>
>>51868631
stick a pin or two in the feet and then stick to a cork? two hold points will help with it turning/moving.
>>
>>51868742
hair dryer.
>>
>>51868856

I consider this, but it won't work for the bulk of them because many only have one foot on the ground.

I am thinking of just using clamp sticks.
>>
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>>51868666
The marine on the right is primed with the exact spray paint you've posted. It's a surprisingly quality product for the $4 it costs. Very matte with very good coverage.

The marine on the left is primed with Vallejo Surface Primer. It was painted on and he ended up quite shiny. It also is the only primer I've used that comes off if you stick it in Simple Green and/or Super Clean for a while and then scrub it. Take that as what you will. On the plus side, I've heard this stuff works MUCH better out of an airbrush. It also has a very strong citrus-y scent, which is nice.

>Will this in red work for dark eldar?
They make it in red? I didn't know that. I play BA so that might be quite useful.
>>
>>51868956
something to consider when using not grey/black/white primer is color matching. that's probably the principle advantage to using citadel or army painter spray cans.

that said i use rustoleum spray primer and liquitex paint-on-primer.
>>
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Got this limited edition guy from old DV set. Still on sprue. No idea what to do with him though. Could sell for an OK price, but seems to only go for like 40 usd, way too low to be bothered to fuck around with international shipping and shit.

If I were to use him myself, I'd convert him to a Dark Apostle. But I'd just end up only really keeping the body as it is, I'd have to carve away at the shoulder, cape, change up the weapons, etc etc. Anyone got any ideas?
>>
>>51868956
Weird, my vallejo surface primer usually comes out much more matte than that.
>>
>>51869142
>>
>>51868956
>>51870255
Woops quoted wrong guy.
>>
Prolly a dumb question.

Does cigarette smoke damage unpainted plastic kits at all? I'd imagine after they're primed and painted you couldn't smell any tobacco on any of them, but I just wanted to be sure cause I need to store some unassembled recasts somewhere with heavy smoke.
>>
Reposting my question from the last thread.

>>51869490
Four marines too late. Just tried out >>51867203 's recipe and it's working out great. But speaking of, what parts did you use for that conversion? I might do something similar for my Praetor.
>>
>>51870355
Put them in a sealed plastic bag for storage, problem solved.
>>
Hey /wip/ how do you "fix" GW Metallics they are too shiny. For the model I'm currently painting they are popping out a lot.
>>
>>51870718
Mix in regular paint.
>>
>>51870414
they already are, but I worried that the smell might still permeate through
>>
>>51870742
So apply a thin coat of Devlan Mud / Badab Black then mix in regular paint? For instance I'm applying Shining Gold, mix it with perhaps some Brown?
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>>51868580
>>
>>51870777
I usually wash after. For gold, I'd optionally undercoat Mournfang (or whatever it used to be called), then mix mournfang and your gold, wash, then highlight with pure gold then silver.

I forget whether Badab and Devlan are matte washes, but the regular Nuln / Agrax do a decent job of matting down metals.
>>
>>51870874
That is exactly that I did, I'm in the highlight part of the process but still it is too shiny (maybe I applied too wide the highlight?), but anyways thanks for the input. I will try to wash then mix with base brown for the highlight and go thinner.
>>
>trying to strip models completely so I can reprime due to my shitty primer jobs from a year ago
>simple green ain't removing army painter black or the chaos black spray
would super clean do it? or something else?
>>
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Anyone has a idea where I can get some zany tzeentch-ian shapes to print out for my bases?

I'm already running out of ideas
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>>51870991

Super Clean works slightly better than Simple Green. I've had the best luck with pic-related (it's only sold at Dollar Tree as far as I know), but black primer will never completely come off unless you carefully scrape it with a knife. I've reprimed minis that had still had some old primer on them after stripping without losing detail. Just be careful to prime with short bursts/thin coats as you always should be anyway.
>>
>>51870355

Just wash them thoroughly before assembling since I assume you mean HEAVY when you say heavy smoke, which WILL leave residue that builds up over time.

You really shouldnt store shit you dont want smelly or dirty in smoking areas
>>
>>51871317
I thought about just sitting here for hours slowly scraping the primer off each of these models, desu.
>>
>>51870991

Rubbing alcohol stripped my army painter primer and paintjob
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>>51871353
What percentage did you use? 91%?

Did you soak, or did you just dip your brush and scrub like a madman?
>>
>>51868580
This is the orkiest dred I've ever seen. No kidding.
10/10 from me.
>>
>>51871372

70%. Slid right off in like 5 minutes. 91% works too

I used 70% because it was cheap so I could pour a shallow amount in a cup and just submerge the entire model lying on its side minus the base and just left it there for 5-15 minutes.

Short soaks mean light scrubbing required. Longer soak and the paint comes off on its own if you used thin acrylic paints
>>
Working on the crashed aquila lander set. one of my first tries with pigment powder,
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>>51871441
Word, thanks brother.

Need to strip a Centurion, 30 marines and 20 guardsmen, this should help.
>>
>>51871443
Looks lovely.
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>>51871478
thanks. the ambient light makes the yellow rust stand out a lot more than IRL
>>
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>>51870718
>Hey /wip/ how do you "fix" GW Metallics they are too shiny. For the model I'm currently painting they are popping out a lot.

This uses ye olde paint names, but you get the idea.
>>
What's a good way to get/make terrain for the base of your mini's?
I want to make a desert ground, and so far I think that just glueing sand from the beach would be the best option
>>
>>51871443
>>51871505
Looks good man
>>
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Started working on my Deathwatch - Overkill project I have had on the shelf for a while now.
Now though, I got hold of some textured rolling pins to make green stuff bases, and this is my first test base. I think it came out pretty good to be honest, a bit to detailed for a base, but still good fun to paint!
>>
can someone post that, 6 step program to better photographs for your minis? The slightly snarky one.
>>
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>>51871925
>can someone post that, 6 step program to better photographs for your minis? The slightly snarky one.

Not sure if you mean the serious one ...
>>
>>51871919
god damn i need some greenstuff pins
>>
>>51871864
sand will destroy the paintjob of your miniatures whenever they rub against eachother. Go with agrelland badlands or something similar.
>>
Can I write on my minis with a pen? I did this with a friend and the ink seemed to rub off. Do I have to use a special kind of pen or was I just being retarded and I need to give the ink time to dry?
Also, if I'm writing on a light brown, ushabti bone colour will black ink look strange? I'm trying to achieve the effect of someone writing on a big scroll cloak but I don't trust myself or know how to paint it freehand, every attempt has come out looking like zebra stripes.
>>
>>51871978
Hadn't thought of that, thanks mate
>>
>>51871443
>>51871505

Looks great, the added numbers and decals really makes the thing "come to life" so to speak. You really connects to the terrain, and it becomes more than just a crashed plane!
I remember having a blast painting this piece myself, hope you have as well, keep up the good work!
>>
>>51871864
>I want to make a desert ground, and so far I think that just glueing sand from the beach would be the best option

It's a good start. You'll want to prime, paint, highlight, and wash the sand. This looks better in 28mm scale when you actually treat it like you're scaling it down.
>>
>>51872001
I have a caligraphy pen that I successfully used on white paint washed with Devlan Mud (now Agrax Earthshade). It's a little more along the lines of a very fine marker, so I'd say something like what you'd use with other hobbies like scrapbooking would be fine. Just don't touch it for a while so it dries completely. I slapped some matte varnish over it as well, just to be safe.
>>
>>51872001
I use micron pens for small details on my minis all the time. Never had any problem with the ink coming off, but it's generally been on more recessed areas of the model. The only thing is be worried about is that ink tends to dry a little glossier than paint, so you'll probably want to give it a wash of agrax or something afterward.
>>
>>51871864
tamiya make a sand texture paint thats really good. i've found actual sand fucks up the scale of minis and looksbad
>>
>>51871975

I highly recommend them. I got hold of a set of 3 from Greenstuffworld.com, one being the "flat" one. But I was so blown away I instantly ordered another 2 pins! Great quality and great details.
>>
>>51868580
ESPAÑA
S
P
A
Ñ
A
>>
>>51869142
Dark Apostle would be really cool. With a little of hard work you could get some good results. I'd go for it
>>
>>51872150
>>51868580
That could proudly smash some dutch rebels.
>>
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Looting a rhino
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Just need to do riveting
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Given that things are picking up, I'm going to chance reposting here since I did it at a shitty time earlier today. Pic is of my chimera, the first model I've done in roughly eight years. For the most part I'm satisfied with it, but I'm not 100% on the mud/weathering effects.

Hoping to get suggestions, recommendations or comments on it and what people think. Light colored mud is supposed to be old, dry mud, while darker is fresh. Apologies for the mediocre picture quality.
>>
>>51868580
>paint model really well
>Remove it instantly from table as it blows up
Just is life as an ork player
>>
>>51872251
For the mud, stippling your two layers more into one another would help, as would a wash over both to tie the colours together a bit more with a common tone.
>>
>>51872081

Is that unpainted Vallejo Sandy Paste?

>tfw want to use that product but already started basing using GW desert texture and drybrushing
>>
>>51872223
>>51872244

Love it, this is what the hobby is all about!
>>
>>51872223
>>51872244
Breddy good. Are you doing anything with the missile launcher or its optics? As of now it looks a little too plain. Maybe add an orky rocket sticking out of the front to illustrate them having used up the original munition (or reloaded after looting)?
Also, I take it the grot isn't glued in place yet
>>
>>51872265
>he doesn't know that painted models always have much better luck and performance than unpainted ones

Silly Anon
>>
>>51872251
You forgot to dirty up the back exit of your chimera.
>>
>>51872297
it goes on much easier than GW product, and its something like 800% cheaper, i use it and their soil one
>>
>>51872297
wait sorry, tamiya, it's Tamiya Sand effect
>>
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>>51872297
>>51872363
>using "technical" paints instead of sand and glue

When will this meme end?
>>
What's a good way to drybrush a blue/black with citadel colors?
>>
>>51872383
i did this one with sand. it's too big.
>>
>>51872293
So add a bit more dark where the light is and a bit more light where the dark is strongest? Also, I guess Devlan Mud would work? At the moment I'm a little wanting for variety in paints, but I'm open to suggestions if you think a sepia or something like that would work better.

>>51872359
I didn't stick it on until the very end; since I've been holding off on varnishing until I could get some suggestions I figured I'd just wait a bit to do it. I'm not completely sure if I want it to be just on the bottom or on the top as well. My only reservation adding it to the top is that it'd obscure the red trim.
>>
>>51872383
>using an airbrush instead of just painting by hand
>using different colors instead of just mixing your own out of primary colors

When will this meme end?
>>
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>>51872401
>it's too big
WELL THEN USE FINER SAND, WHAT THE HELL IS WRONG WITH YOU
>>
>>51872383
>buying miniatures instead of sculpting your own out of miliput and green stuff

When will this meme end?
>>
>>51872410
>>51872429
Look, I'm not trying to shit on convinience, but buying literal paint mixed with sand is just fucking stupid.
>>
>>51872424
i did, in one that happened to be mixed with an adhesive paste
>>
>>51872424
>buying fine sand because the other sand was too big
>driving around town trying to find dust sized sand granules
>picking the smallest grains out of the beach
>having to sterilize non-purchased sand

Or you could just shut the fuck up because people were smart enough to find an easy and likely cheaper alternative.
>>
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>>51872359
>dirty up the back exit
>>
>>51872452
Why? Don't tell me you don't paint your sand because that looks even worse than unbased.
>>
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>>51872469
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>>51872481
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>>51872469
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>>51872481
motherfucker
>>
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>>51872306
Thank you! Here was my first attempt, hope it turns out even better
>>51872309
Thanks for the idea, I'll try to ork up the rocket.
The grots isn't glued in, don't think I will I'll probably end up not and letting his ass sit in the hole for comic relief
>>
>>51872467
I mean, I drove to B&Q and bought enough soft sand to base 50 armies for 3 quid, but if it's that hard for you then maybe stick with the premix.
>>
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>>51872541
was about to post this
>>
Do you guys fully assemble your bikes prior to painting?
>>
>>51872539
I think the grot fits and adds a lot of character to the tank, but I feel like he'd be better off riding on top of something rather than just sitting, or behind a sheet of metal or the like. Regardless of what happens to the git, I look forward to seeing it all come together.
>>
>>51872541
>keeping a giant bag of sand lying around in your house

Why?
>>
>>51872647
To simulate the feeling of breasts
>>
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Rusting is an ass pain.
>>
>>51872541
>only one texture
>have a giant leftover bag lying around
>have to transfer sand to smaller containers to dunk miniatures in anyway
>have to buy more giant bags for various grits

Or you could be like literally every painter on YouTube and just buy basing sand. The pocket change you saved by being so smart was probably already wasted in time, gas money, and having giant bags of sand lying around the house.

You're literally as stupid looking as the person who bought several tons of maple syrup in oil drums who laughs at people buying overpriced syrup from the market.
>>
>>51872668
Realistic rust is real easy, desu.
Use a little typhus corrosion, then use watered down Ryza rust as a wash in the joints where 2 metal parts meet
>>
>>51872668
No, rusting is oxidation. It's literally iron burning at an extremely slow pace because of contact with water.
>>
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Got this guy for a really good deal. Just needed a little dental work.
Thinking about making him my GUO.
>>
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Fairly new, guy running the GW store here tells me you can use the coloured spray (in my case Admech Standard Grey) straight on an unprimed mini. Can anyone verify this?

Pic related; slightly worse with a camera than a brush.
>>
>>51872871
As much as everyone will tell you that they're not primer (which is completely correct), you can use most of the sprays GW sells without actually priming first. It has enough tooth and nail to cling to whatever you spray it on, primer or not.

Also, if you're painting skits, you'd be better off undercoating with Leadbelcher spray instead of MSG (even if the robes will be gray). It'll save you a lot of time in the end.
>>
>>51872871
Your model looks fine, and I think you're able to do that, yes. From what I know GW sprays double as primer and basecoat, although I personally don't have much experience with them so, so I can't give you definitive answer.
>>
>>51872871
Yeah, but only on plastic. I don't think there is really much need for priming, except that it helps you build your layers easier. But that 'primer' can be any colour or your basecoat as far as I know.
>>
>>51872920
>>51872939
Thanks for the advice, think I'll give it a shot. Tough call on the colour, leadbelcher makes sense but I do have a hard time getting the grey smooth on the robes.
>>
>>51872846
Looks kinda' like that glotkin Unclean One conversion some anon was working on a few weeks back. I'm sure no one would ask questions if you used that as one.
>>
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>Start building some dark eldar scourges
>model has a piece to stick into a slotted base for extra stability
>box comes with normal bases
for what purpose?
>>
>>51872871
>>51872920
>>51872939
>>51872963
GW spray isn't an official primer, but you're all correct and it will work. the solvents/paint thinners in it are enough to bond the paint to the model (as long as it's plastic).
>>
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Rate my idea for a homebrew chapter:

>Carcharodons Tempestus
>Splinter successor chapter of Carcharodons Astra
>Dark grey and blue color scheme, like pic related
>Focus on a mix of assault terminators and vanguard veterans
>Still working on the chapter symbol
>Hint hint, will probably have a shark and tornado
>>
>>51872984
To empower them via your suffering. Duh.
>>
>>51872984
so you can find someone with the opposite problem and help community build
>>
>>51872984
that sucks! i just got a box of scourges and it came with slota bases. i'm waiting to assemble them till after i get some magnets for the wings -- storage issues.
>>
I've been having one of those weeks where everything I touch with a brush just turns out like garbage, I think that's a sign to take a break from my current projects and just assemble new stuff before I do any more damage.
Also i'm wanting to make forest style bases, anyone have any pics of stuff they've done for inspiration?
>>
>>51873025
Sharknado is a fucking stupid meme movie, but the idea sounds fine otherwise. Charcharodons are fucking baller. Color scheme you picked seems pretty good too. Might be annoying to paint though.
>>
>>51873210
I always feel like i can only do my best work in a 30 minute window after I start working, after that I have to take a break or everything I do gets sloppier. Takes me a while to complete a project but thats what works for me.
>>
>>51873307
I think i'm an ok painter (normally post most of the malifaux stuff in these threads) I guess i'm just a little burnt out at the moment, been doing a lot more painting than normal recently.
>>
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>>51873210
>anyone have any pics of stuff they've done

I'm working on unit painting Word Bearers and Ultramarines. It feels good alternating between the standard GW method for Ultramarines and the less rigid FW style for Word Bearers.
>>
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How many under age are present? How can you chucklefucks not know the difference between primer and spray paint? One shrinks and etches onto the surface, the other is just paint. Please kill yourself if you want to continue to argue that GW spray cans are primer because "they work fine for me"
>>
I, for one, am quite enjoying the new GW's personality.

Anyways, what's a model you'd like to see him do a video for?
>>
>>51873307
>I always feel like i can only do my best work in a 30 minute window after I start working, after that I have to take a break or everything I do gets sloppier.

I get that feeling too. Strangely enough I seem to paint better while standing and walking around than I do while sitting at my desk.

Sometimes my paint (thinned with my usual mix) turns to chunky goop on my palette while on other days everything's fine.
>>
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>>51873494
>Anyways, what's a model you'd like to see him do a video for?
Either pic related (for the memes) or how to do Space Shark armor would be cool.
>>
>>51873556
Someone should send him a freshly cleaned Johnny and write a heartfelt letter asking him to paint it.
>>
>>51873586
Do you think he'd be miffed if the model that was sent was a recast?
>>
/tg/, I'm getting in the mood to paint again, after many years of not touching anything. I have a bunch of old GW paint that I already thinned back then, will they be still usable if I add some water, or are they lost forever and I have to rebuy basically every color?
>>
>>51873613
Send him a real one or not at all, anon!
>>
>>51873625
Hmm, well it's not like I care about whether or not my Johnny is a recast or not...
Let me think about this.
>>
>>51873491
Nobody ever fucking claims they're primers
>>
>>51873613
>GW employee
>Recast
Well what do you think?
>>
I bought this lot off Ebay and they're soaking right now, but I am in tears.


These are FORGE WORLD RESINS.

How the fuck am I supposed to clean the acrylics off of these models without winding up with a pile of mush and toxic fumes?
>>
Does anyone have the downloads from blacklibrary kairic acolyte and tzangors? In white dwarf it said they were on the downloads page for black library but it isn't there.
>>
>>51873893
fuck man, good luck

also, that arm "This look dislocated to you?"
>>
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>>51873210

Ill post my 10 minute drybrush marine. Im not calling it great. Im just saying, if this can be done with a 5 min drybrush and 5 minute detail paint, anyone can do it (excluding drying time of course!)
>>
>>51872647
do you not have a shed, or what

Sand's got some practical purposes around a household as well, though you'll obviously never really need to buy more.
>>
>>51873893
He reminds me of that gif of the wrestling referee twisting his arm around and giving a thumbs up.
>>
>>51874010
Not him, but apartments are a thing. So are small houses. The suburbs I live in were mostly built in the '70's and few houses have sheds, and those that do are because the residents built them themselves at some point.
>>
>>51874052

Dude, you can have a bag of sand kept in a closet. Its not 5 tons, its a few kg.
>>
>>51874083
Sand...


I have a rock tumbler in the basement. Could I use that to strip the paint off my resin models or would that fuck them up?
>>
>>51873893
i've read that industrial degreasers are friendly to forge world resin. something that you would use on a car engine and very unfriendly to bare skin.
>>
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Does the skin need darker shadowing? Does the fur look ok? Continue to be on the fence about my choices thus far
>>
>>51874216

Yeah, and the people who say that are fucking idiots. Even rubbing alcohol melts FW resin after a while. Using acetone or oven cleaner or brake fluid on resin is stupid as shit.
>>
>>51874344
the dark blue in the fur looks a little flat, maybe a thin glaze could add some depth. Colors look good, just do some more blending on the skin and it'll look great! The lighting is well done.
>>
This is a bit of an odd question but I don't really have anywhere else to ask

I remember seeing, years ago, some website selling bags of fairly generic sci-fi 28mm infantry. They were super cheap and came with about 60 soldiers to a bag if I remember correctly.

Anybody got a clue where that was? I've had a look a few times through Google and by scouring every mini site I come across but couldn't find them.
>>
Should i always use the same colour of the same basecoat when i wash?
Using it on two tone blue tank.
>>
>>51874477
Should i always use the same colour as the basecoat when i wash*
>>
Are there any tips on gluing resin models?
>>
>>51874387
Thanks! I'll give the glaze a shot
>>
>>51874196
>Sand...
>I have a rock tumbler in the basement. Could I use that to strip the paint off my resin models or would that fuck them up?
m8, really think about what you're asking here.
Do you really thing you could stick a resin model into a rock tumbler full of sand to strip the paint off without harming the model? A rock tumbler, designed TO SMOOTH FUCKING ROCKS. And you're wondering if you can throw a fragile resin model in there without harming it?
Really think here m8.
>>
>>51874520
just use super glue? it's not rocket science.
>>
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I'm sorry to be that guy and bother you, but if you see this Secret Santa Anon I sent you an email.
>>
>>51874520
Use superglue and not plastic glue? Otherwise just do the same shit as normal.
>>
>>51874501

You can use grey washes (GW doesn't sell these), black, brown, but other than that you should stick to the same color if you don't use these. Don't use a red wash on a blue tank for example.

You can sometimes use colors that kinda go together, like using a blue wash to make a white part have a blue tint or blue shadows, or use green wash to make your blue slightly greener, but don't be doing stupid shit like green wash on orange armor.
>>
>>51874520
Wash it in soap and water and use super glue.
>>
>>51874555
Not like, play sand or something. I meant like a light abrasive medium or something.
>>
>>51874555
So, what, is that a "no", or...?
>>
>>51874599
You are so dumb...
You are really dumb
>>
>>51872984
Error on GW's part. Shoot 'em an email explaining the problem.
>>
>>51874573
thanks
>>
>>51874648
>Simple questions requesting tips/answers

Hey, at least I'm not that guy who soaked his BA Termies in paint thinner.
>>
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Which of these four schemes do you think would look best on Italian States ships from Dystopian Wars? Would any remix of these elements work better? I'm aware these are closer to historical aircraft schemes and camo on boats is dumb, I just really like a lot of the Italian WWII North African schemes and took inspiration from those.
>>
>>51874921
That would just be odd considering I was the only reply to your first post m8.
>>
>>51874648

Are you calling him a rapist?
>>
>>51874923
Why not do the art-deco camo that was popular on ships around the turn of the century through WWI? That shit looks great.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dazzle_camouflage
>>
>>51875013
Because in addition to Italians, I also have Australians, Russians, Antarcticans, Danish, submarine-and-airship mercenaries, and scant handfuls of Prussians and French to do and there's only so much dazzle you can do before it all looks the same.
>>
I love WIP threads. Theres always so much creativity and skill showcased in them, as well as loads of friendly advice and banter.
>>
>>51875239
yeah!
>>
What parts would you use for a Mechanicus-themed Marine chapter?

Particularly a Captain? 30k aesthetic is a bonus.
>>
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I'm going to painting a lot of rich red and pale blues for the next couple of months, and I need a good grey primer that doesn't go on like shit at cold temperatures. I tried Rustoleum Grey Auto Primer and it splattered like wet toothpaste.

Any other subarctic dwellers here willing to share their tastes in inexpensive grey primer?
>>
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>>51875239
Someone at work broke a small slinky.

I'm thinking warp lightning?
>>
>>51875468
Iron Hand bits...? Don't they sell an Iron Hands upgrade sprue? It's got robo legs and arms and shit.
>>
>>51875494
They do, and I actually have one. Iron Hands is a little too easy, though. I'm more concerned about weirder bits; I'm planning to use a Ruststalker Princeps head and Kataphron claw on my Terminator Captain, for example.
>>
>>51875481
You might be on to something, anon. I'd be a little concerned about how flimsy it may be, though, and how to fix it in place.
>>
>>51875510
Try Khorne Berzerker bits for skull heads, maybe? I'm thinking stuff like the Imperial Knights, how they have the Admech skull faces.
>>
>>51875468
I had an idea of using Skitarii Ranger heads and then using greenstuff to make robes.
>>
>>51875525
I was thinking I'd try and find a left pointing hand and work in a bit of green stuff to mold around it. Or maybe the bracing hand from an SM Missile Launcher and put a magnet in it after I make a sturdy base.

So like, making a sea weed kinda thing on the magnet base.
>>
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>>51875481
>>51875275
See look at all this cool,clever stuff. Never change WIP, i'm proud of all your progesses
>>
>>51875628
Ok.
>>
>>51873491
If it works as primer who cares? Cease your 'tism.
>>
Is this the right place to get recommendations for tools? I lost my hand drill set when I moved recently, and need to buy another one. Is there anything I should be on the lookout for? Or maybe a specific brand I should get or avoid?
>>
>>51875481
You should take a craft knife and very carefully shave it so there's branching bitz going every which way
>>
>>51872452
Except that's not what it is.
>>
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>>51871112
I get Tzeentchian designs off of tzeentchian armor. The gilding gives endless possibilities.
>>
>>51875941
>Warhammer: Online art
[F]
>>
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Got some progress done on the Baal Predator. Sorry for the poor lighting. I jumped the gun with the rusting and wear n' tear, should have waited until after I put on the transfers so will have to apply more after. I'm holding back on all the weapons until I learn how to magnetize them all, so for now I guess this is just a rhino.

Looking for critiques.
>>
About to start assembling and painting minis for the first time, got any tips for painting Imperial Fists?

Other than "thin your paints?"
>>
>>51873617
I don't know how old "old" is but I hope you don't mean you dumped a bunch of tap water in them.
>>
>>51876062
Get a white primer, yellow as a base is difficult to paint over a black prime.
>>
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>>51874402
>I remember seeing, years ago, some website selling bags of fairly generic sci-fi 28mm infantry. They were super cheap and came with about 60 soldiers to a bag if I remember correctly.
>Anybody got a clue where that was?

Are you sure they were in bags? Grenadier's Space Rangers came in boxes of 50.
>>
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>>51875001
>Are you calling him a rapist?

Next thing you know, they'll be climbin' in your windows, and snatchin' your people up!
>>
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>>51876049
Better lighting.
>>
>>51876094
I know Blizzard sells bags of their StarCraft Marines and Zerglings. might be 28mm scale.
>>
>>51874520
Pin + 2part epoxy adhesive.
>>
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>>51868666

Haven't found anything that comes close to maintaining model detail
>>
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Just finished up a specially modelled bullgryn that fucked up an imperial knight in a previous game.
This guys is easily my favourite model in my entire army now.

I can see now that the greenstuff and painting on the neck is a bit shit and needs sorting out
>>
>>51876161

Exactly what I use. Ultra-flat auto primer is also fantastic. Use a gentle hand and quick passes; you can always increase coverage.
>>
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>>51876049
Spiffy shit, dudeman. First things that pop out would be the tops of the exhaust pipes. Most people would sperg out and say to drill them, I'll settle by saying you aught to dot them. Can't make out the lights too well, so nothing to say there. The icon on the front is pretty nice, though the ribbon is noticeably bare. Not sure what to put yet or just didn't do it?

Finally, I'll say that for the side I can barely make out highlighting on some of the edges. If you don't want to go over it again with drybrushing, I'd say give it a little bit of edge highlighting if you decide to do anything.

Actually, no, I'm not done. Did you do any recess shading on it with a wash? If you look wayyyy up on this thread you'll see a chimera with red on the sides. I don't claim to be some sort of paragon of the brush, but when I was working on it and I added a wash of Devlan Mud (Agrax Earthshade) to the recesses it made a huge difference.
>>
>>51872663
underrated
>>
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Tzeentch Daemon Prince wip. Started this little guy again after taking a break from it for a while and removing his previously existing arms and staff. Reworked and touched up his muscle structure and I'm gonna start sculpting the skin on top with runes and a few gnarly feathers poking out. Also got started with some of his armor rough shapes.
>>
>>51876161
I wish I could find that one. Even though I've only had bad experiences with Krylon, I'd love to use that specific one. I use the Rust-o-leum Black Camoflauge and it goes on flatter than /a/'s waifu.
>>
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>>51876227
Back side view. Does anyone have advice on sculpting reptilian skin? Also size comparison to a termie
>>
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>>51876277
Last. Just rough shapes of his armor pieces
>>
>>51868714
I hate tamiya. Any secrets to getting the most out of it? I got a few cans, but never use them.
>>
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>>51876128
>>51876209
Posting a cont. since I didn't see that new picture when writing the other post.

Do something with the headlights, yo'. You can do some simple gem stuff, or like pic attached, although you'd need to get creative with how you apply it to those.

Again, icon is great, if a little bare on the ribbon, and the highlights are pronounced on most of the front, but you could do with more shading still. I do see some spots like the rivets on the front and a few spots on the side, but the front especially could use it more, namely around the driver's sight slot and... I guess that'd be the glacis plate meets the front plate.
>>
>>51876209
Thanks for the critiques but I am not done with it yet, still got some layering to do and such. Also for the doors one the sides I am not doing any painting too much there as I am gonna have the weapon sponsons magnetized to it and the normal rhino doors. As for the exhust pipes, I was gonna drill it out but looking closely it almost seems like they are meant to be flat on top and the smoke is suppose to come out the sides. I thought it made sense as you wouldn't rocks and shit falling in there (or the unlikely chance a grenade). Still have to do the lights, and debating if I want to make them blue or green, (yellow also might be cool). The ribbon will have something on it but I am not skilled at all doing writing with a brush and trying to think of something cool sounding besides "Blood."

Shading was all with Agrax, lighting quality is shit for the picture but I can assure it's much darker in reality. And yeah, may have to highlight the sides more as you can only really see it from an awkward angle.

Also I will be making the tracks and bottom all muddy.
>>
>>51871343
I'm literally doing that right now. I have 90 more models to go.
>>
>>51872714
>contact with water.
Contact with air. But yeah you get the idea.
>>
i left a resin model in some paintstripper for a bit too long and now its really.. not bendy, but not sturdy. bits like teeth and claws i can gently press off with my finger. is there any way to fix this?
>>
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>>51876085
This stuff is primer, right?
>>
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>>51876349
Mud is good. Speaking from experience, be a little conservative with it, though. Unless you want it to look like your vehicle has practically been digging through mud and dirt for a week

As for writing, for the sides of my chimera I used a brush pen similar to the pic here. I kinda' felt like I was cheating, but it's either that or make it look like ass when you're not absolutely certain in your ability.
>>
>>51874377
You're an idiot. Cause it works perfectly fine.
>>
>>51876425
It's ludicrously overpriced spray paint.
>>
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Opinions on face shields?
>>
>>51876509
Don't.
>>
>>51876425
>model paint
>is this primer?
>model paint
>>
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>>51876482
Posting the guide I used to write the smol text on my transport if anyone wants it for reference.

>>51876509
I've seen you posting your progress over the past week or so, and I have to say, at this stage it looks pretty solid. If you're dead-set on it, go for it man. Only contention I have is that most of them look unwieldy. Are you painting them up to make them seem ethereal or corporeal?
>>
>>51876482
Yeah, not gonna go nuts with the mud. As for the writing I am just giving it some thought and am wondering what "Sanguine" would look like writen in Blood for the Blood God.
>>
>>51876425
No, prime it white, then spray that to get a solid basecoat yellow.
>>
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Posting 2 more pic, sorry for crap lighting, light bulb is a pain to replace
>>
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>>51876568
>>
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>>51876588
>>
>>51876565
Might be too light. Maybe try the hollow sort of letters that GW likes using (the ones the thin lines connected to make the letter seem larger) and go over it with Blood for the Blood God? Or the other way around, maybe.
>>
>>51876568
>>51876588
>>51876601
resize them to under 1mb and I might click that shit. Ain't wasting the data to see shit you couldn't be assed to get the lighting right for.
>>
>>51876562
Thanks!
Well I'm actually looking to paint them gold, as the lore for em is that the Chaos Stunties I got Mixed Ur-Gold with the innocent victims they slaughtered and encased their souls so they feel every blow dealt to them. I intend on filing down the sides of the faces to make the transition between face and shield a bit more natural.
>>
>>51876635
Noted.... if only I knew how to resize shit
>>
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Had this fucking thing for like a year, been procrastinating so all I've done is just a basecoat, decals and gloss varnish.
I wanted to ask if it's going to be a bad idea to do a pitch black oil wash or should i go for a blue?

Also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIIExRWTC3g
if i wanted to follow the process he goes through from 14:40. How would i go about doing this on pic related colour scheme.
Seems like something mainly intended for a one colour scheme.
>>
>>51876635
>Ain't wasting the data to see shit you couldn't be assed to get the lighting right for.
News flash. No one cares about your data.
>>
>>51876635
>'hey mom, i told him to resize it AGAIN!'

Also, since when are phoneposters who 4chan caters to.
>>
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>>51876622
So I took your advice and hit everything with more shading and highlighting, shading helped give it more contrast and more of an oily, grimy look, so thanks for that tip. Also I caved in and just settled with "Blood" I used a50/50 mix of Blood for the Blood God and Khorne Red, tried free-handing it.
>>
>>51876601
>>51876588
>>51876568
were you holding a flashlight and the phone at the same time? what man can afford warhams and not a fucking lightbulb?
>>
>>51876256
Isn't that not a primer tho?
>>
>>51876709

Newsflash, nobody cares about shit tier paint jobs, which is 99.9% of what those images are. Too stupid to crop and resize, too stupid to paint well. Prove me wrong.
>>
>>51876962
I'm not him. But I just want you to know, your convenience isn't worth anybody on here wasting time for.
>>
I'm conflicted. I have a list that I wrote a while ago but a clone got taken to LVO and now it's flavor of the month. Am I supposed to just not play it now?
>>
>>51877017
>your convenience
it's like half the people on this general
>>
>>51876930
It might as well be. I mean, sometimes it rubs off when I handle the miniature too much while painting. That's the one con.
>>
>>51874402
Warzone Mutant Chronicles. Models came in bags, were 28mm, and are debatably generic.
>>
>>51877075
This is not /40kg/
>>
>>51877075
just don't play games with it until it stops being flavour of the month, just keep it as a painting project or something
>>
>>51877086
>it rubs off
A primed BONDS to the plastic. It will never RUB off and will only rarely even scrape off, even if you use something hard like a coin.
>>
>>51872668
What? No it's not. Take some typhus corrosion and ryza mix them in whatever ratio makes the color you want and dry brush it on
>>
>>51877104
I think it'll last until nerfs or 8th edition sadly
>>
>>51877079
>it's like half the people on this general
Wow. You're retarded too. Since when is one post half the thread. Fuck there's at least twice as many people telling you off.
>>
>>51873469

What is FWs method for Word Bearers? yours look awesome! Ultramarines nearly as awesome.
>>
>>51877189
There are at least 3 people siding with me, do you think it's just me posting?
>>
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DUNCAN FINALLY SHOWS THE GOODS!

FOR ZE LADIEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>51877269
A lot of effort for a dead army.
>>
>>51877189
I always tell people to resize along with some other critique.

Honestly, I think it telling that the best paintjobs in here show up in photos that are under 1 MB and reasonably sized.
>>
>>51877301
>Honestly, I think it telling that the best paintjobs in here show up in photos that are under 1 MB and reasonably sized.
Yeah, because the quality is so poor you can't see all the mistakes.
>>
So this might be a dumb question, but do you guys paint before you assemble or paint after you assemble?
>>
>>51877283
maybe he knows something you dont
>>
>>51877250
>3 people is half the thread.
It's okay if you're retarded. Just don't post though.
>>
>>51877380
The compression isn't even noticeable at that scale
>>
>>51877393
>implying there are more than 4 people in any thread at any given time, let alone off-peak hours
>>
>>51877250
For fuck sakes, most of us play warhammer. A game that cost $6 a model and requires you to field hundreds for a good game. And you're complaining about your fucking third world internet. You're problem is not our problem.
>>
>>51877430
it's called common courtesy, and it goes both ways.
>>
>>51877381
I do it after. But there are models it's basically required to paint before assembly to get a good effect. Having said that, it's usually a waste of time and not worth the effort.
>>
>>51877380
Let me guess, you judge cameras based on megapixel counts?
>>
>>51877459
So would you say a dreadnought falls into that category?
>>
>>51877418
The top of the gives 91 unique posters, out of 255 posts. This very thread proves you laughably wrong.
>>
>>51877473
Partially. The arms usually can stay on without gluing, so painting them seperate isn't hard. And I'd leave off some of the obvious armor plates (legs mostly) to get in the hard to reach places.
>>
>>51877476
>91 unique posters
over the course of 10 hours
Ignoring VPNs and Dynamic IPs that can make one person register as more than one poster.
Average of 9 unique posters per hour
And after you figure we're off peak hours rn, 4 isn't very far off, unless this is what you retards do literally all day long.
>>
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Can we post some FW inspo?
>>
>>51877442
>it's called common courtesy, and it goes both ways.

Sure it does cunt. You got a funny way of giving common courtesy. I guess the proper response would be to start formating my pictures as 4 MB pngs.
>resize them to under 1mb and I might click that shit. Ain't wasting the data to see shit you couldn't be assed to get the lighting right for.
>>
>>51877380
>Doesn't know the 2 foot rule.
>>
>>51877502
>10 hours
It's been up 8 hours, and but you've already established you can't do math.
>>
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>>51877525

Love this paint scheme
>>
>>51877559
I fucking hate Tau but I gotta admit...

That's a nice looking Tau.
>>
>>51877557
OP was at 13:05:00, 10 and a half hours ago.
>>
>>51877559
>>
>>51877579
It look nicer if it wasn't blurry as shit.
>>
>>51877529
>You got a funny way of giving common courtesy.
You mean by taking a couple minutes to resize my shit before posting?
>>
>>51877592
Looks like reasonable enough quality for just a troop.
>>
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>>51877579

it's the goddamn purple, it works so well with the dark green

The Tau schemes that stand out to me personally as the most effective are the muted, base colors with bright, vibrant bursts of color here and there.

Still looking for a good scheme though.
>>
>>51877601
OH. I'm sorry man. You just had to say you're autistic. My bad, I'll drop it. Maybe give yourself a trip though so I don't insult you again.
>>
>>51877630
>The Tau schemes that stand out to me personally as the most effective are the muted, base colors with bright, vibrant bursts of color here and there.

Agreed. Would never play Tau cause I hate the lore but there is a player at my flgs that plays them and uses that style to paint them and he has one of the better painted army out of everyone there.
>>
>>51877269
Is Duncan using decals?
>>
>>51877525

Does anyone know what that green is?
>>
>>51877689
If it's gw, I'd say Caliban Green. Though I don't know for sure.
>>
File: sandableprimer.png (96KB, 441x494px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51868666
This stuff. It's so thin a quick pass doesn't even cover the surface. Plus it's cheap -- $6 a can at auto stores. By far the best primer I've ever used.
>>
How do I into painting shit real fast?

Have 6 Kataphrons to do and I've been churning through so much AdMech the last few weeks that I just want to get them done at this point.

Main color will be white, so I won't be able to get around 2 thin layer coats on top of 2 thin base coats.
>>
>>51877228
>What is FWs method for Word Bearers?


>1. Prime black
2. Drybrush heavily with silver, taking care to pick out the edges
3. Airbrush one coat of Carroburg Crimson (I used a hand brush).
4. Airbrush 3 thinned coats of Tamiya Clear Red (I used thinned Vallejo Model Color Transparent Red, using a hand brush, then spreading out the wet red with a damp brush, taking care not to let any color pool and to keep the metallic sheen.)
5. Airbrush one coat of Carroburg Crimson

I then went back in and picked out some edges with silver, and also applied a black line in between armor plates to give definition to the armor (black thinned with medium).
>>
>>51877783
Practice. Though if you have the money, an airbrush can really get things going quickly.
>>
>>51876568
>>51876588
>>51876601
The first picture's nice but you went absolute 100% full retard on the other two, how the hell?
>>
>>51873893

Anon, I've used "Super Clean" (Comes in a purple container and I normally get mine from Walmart) before on Forgeworld minis (and recasts) and they have come out alright. Obviously I didn't leave them in for weeks and weeks, but a day or two and a good scrub brush should help you. No loss of detail either.

Just be sure to use a pair of gloves, because that shit is not kind to skin. Unless you like that kind of thing.
>>
File: rsz_1img_5692.jpg (6MB, 5184x3456px) Image search: [Google]
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WIP.
How do they look so far?
>>
>>51877856
First off your image doesn't need to be 6mb, try to resize your image next time .

Other than that, really fucking nice. Sorta hard to make out the exact quality cayuse some areas are a tad blurry. I notice some of the washed areas on the marines could be cleaned up maybe the fur on the wolf to the right can be washed darker and highlighted for better contrast.

Really dig the blood on the white wolfs mouth. Bases also look nice but come off as way too flat. Throw some boulders in there or skulls.
>>
>>51877902
>try to resize your image next time
here we go again...
>>
>>51877916
6MB is taking the piss
>>
>>51877928
>not uploading in superior 8MB
fucking plebian
>>
>>51877916
I'm not the anon who got in that shitstorm over image size, nor do I intend to fucking argue over something so trivial. 6mb is dumb.
>>
>>51877856

>space muhreen on a goddamn wolf

i'm new to this hobby but goddamn, that looks goofy as fuck
>>
>>51878010
it is, Space wolves are pretty damn goofy, I don't mind it myself but plenty of others would, also there are no wolves on Fenris

also also there is no more Fenris
>>
>>51878010
>on a goddamn wolf
There are no wolves on Fenris, newfriend
>>
File: Wooooolves.jpg (90KB, 945x540px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51878010
>Welcome to Space Wolves.
>>
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>>51878060
>>51878062

>"There are no wolves on Fenris"

what the hell

that's... kinda hilarious actually
>>
Does anybody know where to get dental stone in canada? No place seems to ship it here. I'm specifically looking for excalibur.
>>
>>51878129
oh boy, he's through the looking glass, people.
>>
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>>51878129
>"The implications of that quote is that the wolf-like animals are not actually wolves in the Earth sense but severely mutated humans that reverted into a bestial form. Space Wolves make use of werewolf-esque mutants called wulfen, though it's rumored that they can revert fully into wolves (and even change genders so a true breeding race is born) and that seems to be the secret origin of Fenrisian 'wolves'. This mutation is caused by the Space Wolf geneseed, but they keep it secret from the rest of the Imperium."

>"Dark Eldar are aware of this and have actually conducted experiments with kidnapping Space Wolf initiates to purposefully mutate them into wolf form."
>>
>>51877936

I'm still amazed at the guy who had 9.8 MB jpg. Haven't seen a larger jpg yet, mostly pngs when they're that big.

NO ONE WILL DETHRONE HIM
>>
>>51878192
I mean, the file limit on /tg/ is 8MB, so...
>>
>>51878213
>tfw you realize the 6 mb friendposting on wip is the mods trying to make us implode.
>>
File: No Boner no!.png (13KB, 223x200px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51878171
>and even change genders so a true breeding race is born
>>
File: Woooooolves.jpg (92KB, 949x539px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51878290
They really like wolves.
>>
whats the safest way to strip a bunch of resin models

same as plastic but dont leave them in too long, right?
>>
>>51878354
Soak in engine degreaser for an hour.
>>
>>51878354
You try using a rock tumbler, anon?
Short bath in Castrol Super Clean should be fine.
>>
>>51878354
Safest way is to not strip them. But like super clean for 30 minutes in an ultrasonic cleaner should do fine.
>>
>>51878354
>safest
Simple Green and a toothbrush
>>
>>51878393
>>51878401
>>51878415
>>51878429
thanks, team. in return for your help feel free to copy this easy way to make treasure tokens out of junk and sprue
>>
>>51878456
>out of junk and sprue
I know Power Daggers aren't the best weapon around, but that's just mean anon!
>>
So lads, my friend literally just offloaded three crates worth of models onto me because he's not got the time to sort through 'em and he knows I hobby. I have no use for most of them, and I felt bad because he was essentially setting fire to money, so I offered to sort through them and sell them on his behalf. He said yeah, but encouraged me to keep the ones I like and said I can keep half of the proceeds. Still a pretty fucking great deal if you ask me.

My problem is that most of this shit was painted when him and his bro we're retarded teenagers. We're gonna need more Dettol, basically, because the state of these paint jobs has probably substantially reduced their value.

What happens to Dettol when it's used to soak minis? Does the paint liquefy, come off in solid clumps or what? I'm thinking if the latter I can sieve it out and raise, but if the former I'm gonna be buying enough I'll have MI5 up my shitter thinking I'm making bombs.

Help a brother out, lads?
>>
>>51878479
fine. have this rare image of lost STC tech power armour templates.
>>
>>51878499
*were retarded teenagers
*sieve it out and re-use
Sorry boys, posting from phone on way to work.
>>
>>51878499
the more you use dettol the gluggier and paint-filled it gets, you cant sieve it at all. it eventually just turns into a nurgle brew. your best bet is to soak them in dettol, then rinse them in methylated spirits while you scrub them, since the paint will come off and WILL settle out in metho, and then you can rinse them in water. if you rinse them in water straight from dettol you'll get some kind of horrific toxic paint-goo that you cant remove from anything.
>>
>>51878532
to specify, if you soak a mini in dettol and then scrub it in the dettol, the paint will come off as a kind of dettol sludge.
if you soak it in dettol and rinse it in water to scrub you get a satan mess of paint glop
if you soak in dettol and scrub in metho, the metho stops the paint from globbing too much i guess and it settles out to a fine powder
>>
File: warzone_soldier_group[1].jpg (13KB, 550x163px) Image search: [Google]
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Anyone ever work with these lads in pic? I was thinking of getting a pack to share with a friend. How easy are they to repose? I heard the plastic itself is awkwardly hard, but the idea of having 32 guys in 2 different poses makes me kinda queasy.

>>51878532
>if you rinse them in water straight from dettol you'll get some kind of horrific toxic paint-goo that you cant remove from anything.
THIS. Don't make the same mistakes I have, anon. Use methylated spirits.

>>51878502
>have this rare image of lost STC tech power armour templates.
Noice.
>>
>>51878532
Sounds fucking horrifying mate. I mean, the bits I'm keeping are going towards a Nurgle army, but I guess covering myself and my minis in toxic sludge might be a bit too literal and also limit their resale market.

Am I gonna want disposable containers, then, I'm guessing? Sounds like I'm not gonna be wanting to put my lunch in the same Tupperware any time soon and they'll be a bitch to clean. Also, will alcoholic hand sanitiser suffice for the spirits? Mate of mine works in hygiene and has access to a pissload.
>>
>>51878648
i wouldnt put them anywhere near food again to be honest, but you could with some work. I use a few big glass jars of instant coffee i had lying around.

as for the hand sanitizer.. maybe? but probably not. i doubt theyd hurt it though.

one thing to note is if the model is plastic or metal, all of the above is fine. but if it's resin, the kind of bendy plastic, you have to be careful and not let them soak too long or they melt.
>>
>>51878677
Got it pal. I'll pick up some meth anyway (hi, NSA!) when I hit up the hardware store because my back yard for destroyed by the frighteningly named Storm Doris and some reconstruction work is necessary this weekend.

Thanks for once again being the fastest and friendliest hobbying resource on the net, guys. I'd be flailing around like a retard without yas.
>>
File: Ragnor.png (691KB, 520x693px) Image search: [Google]
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Any tips on painting trollbloods?
>>
File: 1485833988903.jpg (102KB, 800x800px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51878728
i'm just repeating stuff that i've learned in this thread, so others dont have to make the same mistakes. also, it goes without saying, but wear gloves. the metho will make your skin kind of prune up and shrink with exposed contact.

for a semi-permanent stripping setup you'll want:

dettol container
metho container
bucket for scrubbing (you need a stiff bristled brush like a toothbrush and you dont want to flick bits of paint goo everywhere)
and maybe a container just for rinsing with water.
and you'll probably want to do it outside.
>>
>>51878771

My best tip is to use the P3 colors for the main colors. You can use other brands for everything else, but for the skin especially you'll want to own the official P3 color. It's a very unique blue that I don't believe even Vallejo matches perfectly, and it screams Trollblood as soon as you see it.
>>
>>51872871
as someone, who has done that, yes, it works well
>>
File: warzone-bag-of-80-soldiers-17.jpg (54KB, 600x450px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51874402
Warzone minis came in a bag of 80. The plastic is harder than what people are used to nowadays and the quality isn't that crisp. They're also closer to 28mm scale thank huge hands and baby head heroics.
>>
>>51878499
Just sell them with the shit paint jobs at reduced price. I mean they're fully assembled already. And while you're saving people some time, I wouldn't pay any more because you pre-stripped them.
>>
>>51878499
What are the mostly? I'll buy dwarfs off you.
>>
>>51875275
damn, why do I even need to buy for overpriced plastic then?
>>
>>51878899
There are people who play paper hammer. But the biggest reason for me would be, because the game is garbage and the models are the best bit.
>>
>>51878916
>>51878899
I've played two 1500 point games against an IG army exclusively made from bottlecaps and flat cardboard cutouts of Leman Russes. They were easily some of the funnest games I've played.
>>
I've developed a dislike for painting assembled models, but damn some of these small ones can have 8+ pieces on them and that's a lot of tiny things to mount and prime
>>
>>51878010
well, I know 40k for quit a long time, and even I am sometimes thinking, "wait, that's a part of the universe?"
>>
>>51878854
>Just sell them with the shit paint jobs at reduced price.
Why do that when you could sell them with shit paint jobs at exorbitant prices. Just be sure to put "MASTER PAINTED" in the auction title and they'll sell like hotcakes.
>>
>>51878973
True dat.
>>
>>51877676
well, he used ones, for the Imperial Knight videos
>>
>>51878970
Before I fell in love with my BA, I actually wanted to play a pure SPESS VIKING spess wolf army. I think it would've been fun but at this point it might be nigh impossible without just ditching the codex entirely. Might as well just play with Spess Shark rules if I'm going to ditch all the wolf in Codex: Wolf Wolves.
>>
>>51876307

It works great for me.

Good shake, firm press, aim from about a foot or more away and no closer, two quick passes from all angles and done. Dries in about an hour.
>>
>>51879351
>Good shake, firm press, aim from about a foot or more away and no closer, two quick passes from all angles and done. Dries in about an hour.
I'll try it out again following that then.
>>
Anyone else have weird superstitions when it comes to painted models?

I am afraid of painting any of my Ironjawz's weapons with blood on them until they've successfully proven to be killy in-game. Otherwise I might jinx em.
>>
>>51879521
The most ded killy model will always be your least cool one and your most cool model will always be your worst performer. This has happened to many time to me to count.
>>
Any chance of a run down on how to use green stuff? Just bought my first of it to fix a gap.

Do I need to prime it after I've applied it, or can I paint straight over?
Where I've already primed do I need to scrape that off before I can stick it in there properly?
Will a wet stanley knife do the trick, or will I need a proper hobby knife?

Anything I didn't ask about that I should know?
>>
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>>51874018
>>
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I'm torn between gluing a nickle or other coins in the bottom of my minis to add weight and putting a magnet in there for a magnetized carrying case. The larger bases have room, but the infantry ones don't

Anyone have experience doing either one of these?
>>
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Since we're talking a bit of vehicles, any suggestions on how to fix the weathering on my DC Dread? This was one of my first models and I wasn't entirely sure what I was doing.
>>
>>51880100
You cover it up with more paint or you strip it all and start again.
>>
>>51877586
Holy fuck that lazy faggot taking a nap
>>
Can anyone recommend what combination of blue paints to use for the Visarch's cloak? Not the fur bit, but the underside of the actual cape?

I was hoping for a full paint guide from Duncan but unfortunately the Lord of Thin Coats and Smooth lines has forsaken me.
>>
File: 20170224_015856_HDR.jpg (2MB, 4160x2340px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51880084
I'm putting together my Warpath kekstarter and I'm magnetizing all of my bases. Plastic and metal infantry are easy, just slip one under the base. As long as the gap is the right size, it works great. I used 6mm dia x 2mm thick neodymium rare earth magnets from some Chinaman off Amazon. I think they were like twelve bucks for a hundred.
Some of my older models have bases that are flush with the table though, and those are gonna take some drilling to fit magnets in.
Also you have to be real generous with your adhesive. If the bond between the magnet and the model isn't as strong as the attraction between the magnet and the ferrous surface, you'll have a bad time.
>>
File: 20170224_015634_HDR.jpg (2MB, 4160x2340px) Image search: [Google]
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>>51880084
>>51880909
Added benefit to magnetizing: cheap and easy transport and storage for your tiny men. Use stainless steel baking pans with sealing tupperware lids. Way less expensive than pluck foam. And still secure. These guys are upside-down as fuck in this shot.
>>
>>51880944
picture flipped
>>
>>51880821

Please can someone here can speculate as to what colours are used on the cape in pic related
>>
>>51876845
In the off-chance you look over this thread one last time, I'll leave this reply here. The shade absolutely helped. Gave it a hell of a lot more definition. As for the free-handing letters, they're a tiny bit wobbly but I don't think anyone's going to give you too much shit over that. Looks good, hombre.
>>
>>51873556
https://youtu.be/A0YU-WqvvbY

Gee anon, I sure wish there was a video platform with a search function.
>>
>>51876425
Yeah you can use it as primer
>>
>>51876172
Well damn. That's a nice conversion.
>>
>>51881017
Duncan made a video on the Visarch's cape.
>>
>>51881401

Only the fur at the top, not the actual cape
>>
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>>51876672
Pls respond
>>
>>51880821
I think, the actual White Dwarf has a guide for that, but I am not sure
>>
>>51881758
Do you not have access to the he webstore? Shows all the paints
>>
>>51876635
Where did your step father touch you, anon?
Thread posts: 360
Thread images: 97


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