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WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 343
Thread images: 83

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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Good songs are forever evergreen.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HhwXxjiqDEU

>Previous threads:
>>51829251
>>51812978
>>51794564
>>51770055
>>51756957
>>
DRANK MY PAINT WATER

FUCK
>>
>>51849599
then either nut up and go about your business or go and put two fingers down your throat and vomit it out.

If you've painted something with metal colouring - like GWs Leadbelcher, for example - then I recommend the vomit.
>>
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>>51849599
>>
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face shields and gems on the pauldrons
>>
>>51849599
If you drank a whole cup, you're a ridiculous person for not noticing. Either way, It's just acrylic, you'll be fine, don't try to puke, you've probably already begun to metabolize It and would just be throwing up for no reason. Don't eat your sprues, though.


Dont.
>>
>>51849778
>Don't eat your sprues, though.
>Dont.

I feel like there must be a story behind this.
>>
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Repost from the bottom of the last bread.
>>
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Looking for advice on my color scheme for my chapter master namely the details like the tassles and gems and how to do the banner. One anon mentioned tincture and i didnt really follow after looking it up.

Head laurel will be gold as well
>>
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>>51850009
>>
Just got one of the auctions off of ebay for someone's old squad of marines, and man, they're rough as fuck. They definitely feel like they're either plastic or resin, but the seller wasn't sure which they were. What's the best way to not only strip the paint off of them, but also weaken/dissolve the superglue on the joints so I can start as fresh as possible without also dissolving the minis? Simple Green, even the concentrated stuff, takes the paint off just fine, but doesn't really do much to the superglue.
>>
>>51850108
>They definitely feel like they're either plastic or resin, but the seller wasn't sure which they were.

Uh, pictures?

>Simple Green, even the concentrated stuff, takes the paint off just fine, but doesn't really do much to the superglue.

It won't. That's one one of the selling points of superglue. Are you sure that's what it is, though? If the previous owner used plastic cement, you're not going to get that bond to break short of cutting or snapping it.
>>
>>51850108
>seller wasn't sure

So... recasts?
>>
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Thought you guys would like this tutorial, since many people are trying to paint Carcharodons.

Do note the little typo of the guy on the title, he forgot an R.

https://youtu.be/A0YU-WqvvbY
>>
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>>51850202
>seller wasn't sure
>So... recasts?

Not necessarily. That's why I asked for pictures. It's going to be hard to show us Space Marines that somebody here won't recognize as being part of one particular production run or another. GW's Techmarine and servitor entourage, for example, was only ever made in metal and resin, so you know it can't be plastic. That kind of information might help decide what chemicals *not* to use!
>>
>>51850058
From afar it looks a bit of a mess due to the palette you've chosen, however closer up it looks really nice, good job! I would say that it could do with some weathering on the gold, might take some of the gaudyness away from it.
>>
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>>51850140
Pic attached.

>If the previous owner used plastic cement
God, I certainly hope not. That's why I want to find something that will dissolve superglue, to see if it is cement or not.

>>51850202
They're pretty basic spess mehreens, so I doubt it. I did get them super cheap, though, like under $5 all said and done, so if they are I wouldn't be too upset over it.
>>
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No Johnny in this lot (eBay item 272562638819), but I see lots of OOP stuff. including chaplains, hard-to-find Rhino crew, officers, special weapons like plasma guns and shuriken catapults... I'd probably bid on it myself if it wasn't mostly duplicates of things I already have.
>>
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So what do you guys think so far of this basing test run?

Also how to do bricks?

Sorry for phoneposting
>>
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>>51851032
>Pic attached.

Excellent. From left to right, the models are:

1). Third Edition Blood Angels Death Company. Metal body and shoulder pauldrons with plastic arms, base, and backpack.
2). Plastic Second Edition boxed set Space Marine with metal Third Edition plasma gun glued on the front.
3). Second Edition Blood Angels Tactical Squad Sergeant. Body and right arm are metal (single-piece casting). Base, left arm, and backpack are plastic.
4). Third Edition Space Marine squadboy with rokkit chukka. Everything on this model is plastic.
5). Third Edition Blood Angels Death Company. Body and right shoulder pauldron are metal. Everything else is plastic.

If you're really interested in saving everything, perhaps you should consider non-acetone nail polish remover. I'd probably melt everything off with acetone or Goof-Off, throw away anything that wasn't metal, and restock from my bitz box, but not everybody has that many Space Marine bitz.
>>
>>51851184
What is the red marine plotting ?
>>
>>51851184
Different guy, I use alcohol 96ยบ, the one for wounds. I heat it in the microwave for 30 secs, and put the piece in side after that. Put a cap and wait till it gets cold. Use a teethbrush and done, the miniature suffers not.

Sometimes even removes the glue and leaves the piece in its original state.
>>
>>51851147
Honestly it looks a mess. I have no idea what you're trying to achieve.

What look are you after and I'll assist as best I can anon.
>>
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>>51851364
>What is the red marine plotting ?

Why, death to the heretics, of course!
>>
>>51851563
His raised "eyebrow" gets me everytime
>>
I'm making an unit filler showing a skeleton poping out of its grave to attack a guy walking next to him, and I don't know how to paint it

>"normal" skeleton, with rusty armor and sword, bone-colored bones and covered with dirt
>ghost skeleton, everything blue/white
>ghost skeleton, green/white
>ghost skeleton with rusty armor and sword
>>
Is there anyway to recolour transfer sheets?

Specifically the Metalica skitarii sheet was discontinued and since the default Mars transfers are all white and not red they would not show up on the robes.
>>
>>51851689
I'm assuming you're not talking about painting over them; you're screwed. Print your own, or have someome else print them for you.
>>
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How do I take pictures of fucking tiny red models?
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>>51851443
I'm trying to make it look some paved ways broke up from the magic underneath it

Maybe one can see with some more and other color what I'm getting at. But I think I have tones the blue down too much now
>>
>>51852087
i think this is cool, just dry brush the stones to look more like stones. also some moss or sprigs of grass coming through the stones couldn't hurt.
>>
>>51851620
Is there a particular reason you are so interested in the ghost skeleton thing?
Just wondering, cause it seems slightly unusual.
If that fits the rest of your army go with that, but then I'd assume you already knew how to paint them if your army consisted of ghosts.

In any case you cannot go wrong is the classic skeleton look. It always looks good. So that's the save bet, unless something else like army theme figures into the equation.
>>
Question about casting. I need to cast up a single, chariot sized bases. I have the mold finished, I just need to actually cast the base. What material would be best for making a single base? I don't want to buy a giant tub of resin which would go to waste.
>>
>>51849599
Do you feel the warp overtaking you?
>>
Might as well ask here just in case.

Does anyone know if it is feasible to carve/chisel beech wood plinths?
>>
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I am working on rowboat so I can finish him before the superior plastic version comes out.
I am however totally flunking on the face. I have already redone it 3 times and it keeps being shit.
I don't want it to become a super thic layer on his face, anyone have any tips on how to practice without ruining it?
>>
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>>51852877
>What material would be best for making a single base? I don't want to buy a giant tub of resin which would go to waste.

I was going to suggest Alumilite High Strength 3. Even though it's only about $23US, that's way more than you need for a single base. You probably also don't want to invest in a pewter-melting setup.

I've heard ladz around here using a mixture of kneadatite ("green stuff") and milliput.
>>
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>>51853662
>I was going to suggest Alumilite High Strength 3.

Duh. That's for making the mold. AlumiRes is what you put *in* the mold.
>>
>>51853658
Anon...
>>
>>51853658

>I am however totally flunking on the face.

Yeah... just the face.
>>
>>51853658
even when you just are baiting with a picture your drew from another forum

it just aches my heart that people can invest that much money into a lump of plastic and cant even make it look half good
>>
>>51851184
You are a fucking genius.

Is it okay to use this thread to help identify minis then lads? Came into a few I could use a hand with.
>>
>>51853803
>it just aches my heart that people can invest that much money into a lump of plastic and cant even make it look half good

Yeah it's not hard to paint a Primarch up to a tabletop standard - just use the basic marine techniques. In fact it's even easier because they're big models.
>>
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>>51853865
>You are a fucking genius.

Thanks. I imagine some uvva ladz around here have words for me that aren't so kind... but then I remember where we are.

>Is it okay to use this thread to help identify minis then lads? Came into a few I could use a hand with.

That would probably be OK. As long as you're asking about Space Marines sculpted by Citadel Miniatures in the last 30 years, I will likely know the answer or could find it in short order.

I might also suggest Bartertown. There's are some forums there ("Grimdark Futuristic" and "The Olde World" are the two for GW 40K and Fantasy specifically, but there are others) where guys talk about this kind of stuff. If you're going *waaay* back, there's also the Oldhammer forums across the pond. They deal a lot in Citadel stuff from before the Dark Age of Technology.
>>
>>51851847
>pomf
>what are we going to do on the bed senpai?
>>
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>>51820892
>the OG Johnnyanon will often post links to any he sees here so just stick around and you may have a chance at one yourself. Often times the auctions are UK only though so that sucks, but hey, it's something at least.

It's UK, and damn it's pricey, but it's a Johnny.
>>
>>51854032
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hgq4w4dqKsU
>>
is it safe to use the blue stuff method to recast finecast resin?
>>
>>51852087
Maybe some spots of higher contrasting colors, so it doesn't look too much like oil.
>>
>>51854667
I got one from him the other day for ยฃ25 and now im hoping its not a recast.
>>
can I get some advice on painting concrete? Imagining paint grey, wash black, drybrush more grey? am I overthinking this?
>>
Working on Mechanicus-flavored Inquisitorial Warband. Right now I'm planning on using Ruststalkers with a head swap as Death Cult Assassins. Any suggestions for what to use for Crusaders?
>>
>>51854838
Secutarii Hoplites, perhaps with Infiltrator Power Swords? They look the part. Head swap, obviously.
>>
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>>51854838
>Any suggestions for what to use for Crusaders?

Can you get Fanatic Adeptus Arbites supression shields? That seems like it'd be perfect.
>>
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my standard bearer for Vermin Swarm army. What do you think?
>>
>>51855074
shit! I didnt realise it was this big
>>
>>51854838
>Any suggestions for what to use for Crusaders?
You could look into the urban war range. Junkers have the eagle motif and you won't see an inch of skin on them.
>>
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How do the eyes look now? Too big, right?
>>
>>51855278
anime eyes.
>>
>>51855278
>How do the eyes look now? Too big, right?

Considering how fantastic the rest of that model looks, yes.
>>
>>51854796
If the surface doesn't already have a gritty, pitted texture, washes aren't going to do all that much. Maybe just paint black and drybrush grey to make the surface look grittier than it is.
>>
>>51855278
Kawaii uguu
>>
>>51855306
>>51855331
>>51855390
lol okay no problem, I did that correction in like 10 minutes. I guess I'm going to reduce the size now, that'll take a while. I'll come back later.
>>
>>51855278
She looks surprised/anime eyes.
>>
>>51855278
she needs eyelids
>>
>>51854796
add white scratches
>>
>>51855278
anon-chan~
>>
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>>51854838

Well this probably wouldn't work for you, but this is how I've been doing the crusaders I'm working on for a battle conclave.
>>
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Someone's geting sacked for not being there when Duncan came.
>>
>>51852087
how did you make the base looks sick
>>
>>51855492
one man stores have awkward opening times, or he could have been out to lunch
>>
>>51855539
Yeah I thought the same. Mine has different hours on almost everyday. Sometimes he'll open at 10, close a 12.30, re open at 13.30, and other times he'll straight up skip the morning and open at 12.30.
>>
>>51850207

No, he is right. I play Carcharodons and I can confirm that they are cacha on the table.
>>
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>>51854571
>first picture not actually taken on a bed
>>
>>51855278

I mean they are huge, but I can tell they are actually fucking eyes, as compared to the other one.
>>
>>51855459
>>51855356
gracias gentlemen
>>
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Currently working on Goreshade for a friend. It has been a long time since I last painted, I just want to get comfortable to paint again when my KDM arrives.
>>
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Planning on buying 2 german half track minis, and converting them to ork trukks, which scale would work best for orks? Ive looked into this quite a bit, but different sites state different dimensions for the same models, and nothing just adds up. Anyone else here done this before? Debating between 1/35 and 1/48, I would got a hobby store, if we had one. Pic related.
>>
>>51855919
1/35th, 1/48th feels mega small in comparison
>>
>>51855941
thanks man, im lucky theyre dirt cheap.
>>
>>51855970
it really varies from brand to brand (usually corresponds to quality) and where you live, 1/35th stuff can be about as pricey as gw
>>
Is there anything more dreary to paint than drop pods? I don't think so.
>>
>>51856065
yea, itll cost me 24 euros for 2 half tracks from a retailer, quality is Tamiya, so i dont suppose its gonna be crap.
>>
>>51856075
batch painting infantry squads
>>
>>51856093
I've had good experiences with the small amount of Tamiya I've bought but keep in mind that anything meant to directly interact with human hands is going to be the main area where the size doesn't line up to gw. So like tools, handles, stuff like that will look severely small compared to IG hands so about twice as small looking next to ork hands.
>>
>>51854943
I could get marginally more realistic riot shields. I imagine sticking with a Ruststalker base would be a bad idea for the purposes of distinguishing?
>>
>>51854838

Enclosed Knightly armor of your choice (AoS or 40k ranges, though 3rd party is fine), torso and legs. I recommend Skitarii but a good deal of Empire or Bretonnian bits can work as well.

Skitarii Vanguard heads or knightly armored heads of your choice ((AoS or 40k ranges, though 3rd party is fine). Again, Bretonnian or Empire knight heads can work as well, depending on how pompous you want your Crusaders to look.

Deathwatch stormshields can work very well and already come with an Inquisition mark on them, as can the more kite shield like stormshields, or Horus Heresy boarding shields. Fantasy might have a few tower shields you can use as well, but I have looked around and haven't seen many available.
>>
There's a diorama contest at my warhammer store, so I decided i'll be entrering thos fuckers which are basically screaming WFB lives !

What do you guys think ?
>>
>>51856075
Assembling a Fire Raptor is pretty damn terrible I heard.
>>
>>51850058
Maybe they meant rule of tincture?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_tincture
>>
>>51854838

Take vanguard alpha heads for the helmet and cog horse hair plume. Put onto scions torsos, cause their cuirrass are great. Use the scions arms and bash shields onto one and power swords onto the other. Vanguard legs are not good since they're designed to go under the cloaks. Marine legs could be decent. Alternatively look at AOS.
>>
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Finally finished my last Crisis Suit.

I mean I got three more coming literally today but for the next hour or so my last suit.
>>
>>51856670
that pose reminds me of titanic
>>
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>>51856670
>SUPERMAN
>*BOOM*
>>
>>51856670
>BEHOLD MY PELVIS GUE'LA!
>>
>>51856727
I tried to pose another suit behind him but it just didn't work out
>>
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Night Lords anon here

I'm more or less satisfied with how these turned out, but I want to start making some progress. What's the best way to do this? I have a lot to do, yet, and part of the problem is what weapons to give them. Another problem is what to use for where, which would affect what weapons are used.

Should I do them in squads? Should I just assemble and paint all the bodies with no arms?
>>
>>51856670

I feel like he's going in for a chest bump with his bro. Model a different type of suit the same way and then face them towards each other. It's for the greater good.
>>
>>51851847
Get an equally tiny camera
>>
>>51856403
What the fuck is mayael the anima doing there
>>
>>51854032
you suck nigga boi
>>
>>51856757

I'm not crying
>>
>>51857149
She's an elf, they're elves, seems pretty straightforward
>>
Have any of you guys made those magnetic carrying cases like in https://youtu.be/fHhEyT__rLU ?

I'm getting tired of my dude's swords breaking off and having to waste space in my foam trays on things like wings, but I don't want to spend the money on the supplies only to find out it's a piece of shit.
>>
>>51857420
>magnetic carrying cases
I use trays lined with adhesive magnetic sheets. They work quite well and I imagine plastic models would be quite secure in the event of a minor drop. Unfortunately my models are metal historical minis densely packed so each tray is quite heavy, so the impact upon hitting the ground would be serious.
>>
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These eyes should do the trick I think.
>>
I've got to strip some resin models, is it safe to use detol on forge world stuff?
>>
>>51854712

Answer for this?
>>
>>51857962
That's much better, nice job
>>
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So I've been working on taking the extra head and limbs from my saurus oldblood kit and turning them into an extra saurus hero.
Lots of green stuff later I currently have this monstrosity
>>
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>>51858155
I haven't done it with resin, but I don't see why it wouldn't be safe.
>>
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So I have a lot of shit to paint.

I spent years building models and never priming or painting them. The time has come.

I bought a mega paint set from army painter and a standard color set from valejo model color (with like 10 colors) I also have whatever is not dried up of my 10 year old citadel paint collection.

How should I prime my minis? Will spray paint work?

I have the following to prime/paint and would like suggestions. when I was a kid I primed everything citidel chaos black primer.

Mantic Undead Mini Army
Salamander Space Marines
Start Collecting Dark Eldar - Want to paint dark red color with lighter red edge highlights

Start collecting Eldar - also red but lighter maybe?

Orcs and Orks

Skaven

Age of Sigmar Starter Set

Patton's eagles Armored company box (flames of war) - Finding a good OD would be great or army green color.

Flames of War Starter Set - Same deal I think ill be painting these US colors despite being brits.

What color primer would you use for these? Feel free to copy paste me and type the brand/color next to it.

Do shop brands like Krylon or Rustolem Primers work? Do I want Flat, gloss or satin?

Do camo spraypaints by Krylon fusion or Rustolem work by themselves or do they need primer underneath?

Does anyone make a decent khaki or brown primer?

I know the color of the primer effects the final tone of colors (Black darker grey middle white lighter) But are there anything else I need to consider?

I remember it being a real bitch to paint red over black undercoat. Same with painting tan over it or yellows.

Sorry for wall of text.
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>>51855919
OI i have de exact same one
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>tfw listening to the GW painting tutorials while doing shit
Feels good man
Duncan has a great voice
>>
Any reliable matte varnish aerosol cans? Some of the Vallejo paints are quite glossy
>>
>>51858198

Well I mean heat and fine cast don't get along you know? Little warm water and fine cast becomes bendable. I worry about heat transfer from the blue stuff.
>>
>>51856670
did you have any issues with the shoulderpad getting in the way of the weapons like i did? or am i doing something wrong
>>
>>51858495
Dunno. I magnetized all my weapons so maybe it gives me some wiggle room
>>
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Made deathwatch progress over the weekend. Land raider redeemer for an upcoming template weapon based kill team.
>>
>>51857962
Please paint my Anonymous Survivor in 3 years for me.
>>
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And here's a watch fortress command staff family photo. Blood Angel Captain turned out better than Id expected for winging it on an ancient never-painted deathwatch fellow my friend cobbled together two editions ago.
>>
>>51858394
his new ones where they obviously try to keep the vid under two minutes, forcing him to speak really fast just give me a vague feeling of anxiety
>>
>>51858199
Krylon works great for me. Make sure its a matt/Flat spray.
>>
>>51858947
If you listen closely you can hear the subtle changes in his voice when GW raises the gun to his head to make him speed up
>>
>>51858424

Army Painter Anti-Shine or Testors Dullcote

Vallejo matte is good if you have an airbrush, can stand the long cure time, and if you want a matte model that is still smooth to the touch. I however am impatient and like the rough matte feel so I hate it.
>>
>>51858955
what color do you use?
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>>51849581
Currently working on some ig for a friend of mine for his birthday

About to gloss this baby and start line shading

What does /tg/ think of the camo job?
>>
>>51859068
flipped image strikes again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>>
>>51855278
>doushite oniichan,
>>
>>51858061

It's mostly safe but don't leave it in there longer than you need to or it will start temporarily softening the resins outer surface once it seeps through the paint

No permanent damage I assume
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>>51859068
That you fucked up, Cadia cammo is like pic related nowadays
>>
>>51855278
>when the acid kicks in
>>
>>5185I dig it so far.
Other than the multi melta barrels needing drilling/dotting.
>>
>>51858582
>undrilled barrels
>visible seams on flamers and fuel tanks
Paint looks decent enough, though the red is a tad flat.
>>
>>51859277
>undrilled barrels
stop trying to make drilled barrels happen.
>>
>>51859068
i liked the glow effect you put onto the barrel of the plasma cannon

adds a little pop to the model.
>>
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I made a mini light box today.
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>>51859583
And I think it makes my miniature look worse.
>>
>>51859583
>tanning box
>>
>>51859256
>>51859277
Oh yes. I'll have to grab my larger bit and drill that when I work on it next. Better than drilling assault cannon barrels. Those stress me out.
>>
>>51859062
Black, gray or white it depends on what colours I'm planning to using and the end result I wont.
>>
>>51856943
Love this shit, anon. How I'd do it is that second option -- put them together as armless and batch paint the whole lot, then individualise/touch/up/tweak each mini as you see fit after deciding what weapons they're loading out with, which should give you a clearer idea of each miniature's 'personality'.

I only commented because I'm reading the first ADB Night Lords book atm and the whole thing of Abaddon trying to take over Talos' company is fucking hilarious when considered alongside the mental image of an army of armless Night Lords.
>>
>>51856943
your on the right track and honestly all i would suggest is that you just steady up your edge highlighting and apply it multiple times in really thin coats so it blends better.
>>
Any of you guys got a recommended modelling drill or dremel? Got a fuckload of empire/freeguild handgunners in the works and their muskets with no barrels are triggering my autism major.
>>
>drop pod doors

am I gonna have to magnetise this shit?
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>>51852087

I would say there are a couple things working against you:

The shape of the pavement chunks is too clean, especially the sweeping curved bits. It looks more like ornamental garden paving than a broken-up surface.

I don't think the cracks and grooves in the "magic lava" help. Like...it looks like two different types of paving, rather than paving over fluid. I think you'd get more effect out of narrower, brighter fissures, rather than those broad, scaly patches. Would help the substance beneath look more fluid, too.

And now, looking at your mini, I'm imagining a paved street with a couple stones missing...and underneath the stones is scaly flesh and a big ol' eye or something.
>>
>>51859899
i do not magnatize mine and they stay together just fine

I clear coat all my models with a matt varnish, and it sticks to itself just enough to not cause damage but also keep it together.
>>
>>51859872
I use the P3 one and have no problems with it but I'm sure there's thousands of generic ones around you can get too.
>>
>>51859790

Thanks!

That sounds like the best way I think. Just make a batch one squad at a time I guess. Then, I can paint claw numbers on them or something. Maybe I can finally give transfers a try, though I'd like to get FWs etched brass.

>>51859850

That's good to hear.

Yea, the one on the left is a little fat on the highlights. He was the first and done before I got my artificer brush and humidifier.
>>
>>51859872
always hand drill ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS

if you use any type of power drill you will 100% blow out the side of the gun barrel

hand drilling allows you to feel when to much is too much.
>>
>>51859999
humidifier?

am i missing something? what would you need that for
>>
>>51860022
keeps the paint from drying on your brush too fast if the air is dry. not him, btw
>>
>>51860022

My apartment is dry as fuck. Painting finer details was a bitch because the tip of my paint would dry before I could use it.

>>51859790
Also
I'm actually on the last book now. I love it so far.
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I've just started to build a small army for 40k and I've painted by the books somewhat, I am currently working on a Militarum Scions set, I like the paint and colors I'm using but they seem a little of for some unknown reason ?

Any suggestions on the current way to enhance the looks ?

Still gotta clean up the flag a bit
>>
>>51860302
>6.5 MB
Nobody is clicking on that.
>>
>>51860302
for one if you are a beginner just assemble the entire model minus the literally impossible to reach portions of the model if it was assembled

when things have gold trim like scions, its easiest to juts pain the would model gold then fill in the non gold portions with color, then shade and highlight

i would reccomend watching duncan paint these blood warriors, its very similar to what you are looking for

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30B1UmJ5AFc
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>>51860302
Better angle of flag
>>
>>51860151
It's fucking great, right? ADB gets so much heat on this board but I love he's unironically becoming my favourite BL author and I'm 200 pages into his first book.

>>51859984
>>51860007
This one?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modeling-Drill-Pinning-Set-93096/dp/B001N1AASC

Looks alright. It's in my basket for next payday. Thanks lads.
>>
>>51860376
How about you resize this shit first.
For the love of god, there is no reason to be posting shit 1MB or bigger
>>
>>51860376
looks like you didnt prime, which is important for paint to actually adhere to the plastic
>>
>>51860373

I am a beginner and am really enjoying the peace of painting the miniatures

I've actually painted them on the frame minus the parts in where they connect so I can get better angles, but if there's somewhere I can't reach, I'll wait to paint after I cut

I usually do what you said about painting the general area, makes it easier than wasting a fine point brush

Also thank you the link, I'll check it out
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>>51860417
I did prime, I use black matte spray paint

And that paint was kina messed up, I left it in my car during a hot day and tried to fix it
>>
>>51860410
Gees, sorry bout that, I'll resize it next time
>>
knocked out a little fukei pagoda kit
>>
>>51860302
for a base coat that looks pretty ok. Wash it.
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>>51860453
there are some spots in the other picture too that look like you missed some spots

dont worry, more practice will help
>>
>>51860589
Thanks for the pointerview out, I wouldn't have seen that little knick, and I have painted the hands and gauntlets yet
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>>51857962
Way better.

On the assumption you'll be doing more, if you want a less made-up look for the eyes I think you could work with a very dark brown (I'd look at Rhinox hide with a touch of black) to block them out, instead of the black.

Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the skirt and whether you go for that freehand.
>>
Bought a Mega Paint set from armypainter.

Is this enough colors to paint Age of Sigmar starter set?
>>
>>51860302
There's either something wrong with your primer, you are priming incredibly wrong, you're handling the models very poorly (touching them roughly and working the primer off), or your models are greasy either from pre-handling or sometimes they come out of the box like that.

I suggest you wash the models with dishsoap and water, let dry, then prime. Look up some videos on proper priming. If you follow the instructions properly and are using GW primer, contact their customer support and explain. They're great guys and will probably replace everything at the least.
>>
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I like this red
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>>51861325
I do as well, what is it? And from what line.
>>
>>51858650

HERO BASES
>>
>>51861344

Isn't it the red jewel paint they recently released for Eldar gemstones?
>>
>>51861379
If it is, I would love to know how he achieved that effect, because I own that paint and it don't look that good.
>>
>>51858495
same, next suit I do I'm gonna test fit more
>>
>>51861325
>>51861344
>>51861379
>>51861408

to paint this you paint on gold then red, its called candy red

here is a great tutorial, this guy is like duncan, not as good to listen too but very knowledgeable

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5Wrrx-m_zk
>>
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Is this usable as a primer or do I need to undercoat first?

For IG infantry/tanks and maybe some ww2 models.
>>
>>51861419
Oh, they have that stuff at the hobby store here. I'll have to pick some up.
>>
>>51861458
i would stay away honestly from any thick sprays such as that


with how fine detailed models are getting you do not wan tot risk it, and if you should do the faintest of sprays
>>
>>51861494
What do you recommend I use as a primer then?
>>
>>51861458
You want this stuff
>>
>>51861458
Rust-oleum is chunky as fuck, don't use it for anything smaller than lawn furniture. If you want a cheap spray for small scale things you can try Krylon but it will still be worse than dedicated modeling paints.
>>
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>>51861419
that background music is perfection
>>
>>51861517
anything that doesnt have color except for white and black


not only are those colors that come out of those cans a bitch to work with, but they are usually thicker


back in the days before i air brushed i would use black automobile primer, its thick as fuck and smells like shit but apply it in super thin coats and it holds on to paint like glue
>>
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Really could not be fucked with this at all and half the doors don't stay shut. Might weather, dunno yet.
>>
>>51861458
I use Tamiya flat grey primer, and while I am sure it is not the best, it works real well for me. You can pick it up at most hobby stores for about $10-$12 bucks where I am.
>>
>>51861567
Magnetize the door tops.
>>
>>51861344
>>51861379
>>51861408
>>51861419
Tamiya Clear Red. Gold undercoat, wash, then several thinned coats, then details. I used Tamiya paint thinner to thin the stuff because it's a bit hard to work with, since the consistency is like a thick glaze
>>
>>51861458
The stuff that functions as a primer will say so and it doesn't look like that says so.
>>
>>51861596
Yea looks like i'm gonna have to. Dunno why this thing annoyed me so much.
>>
>>51861653
My first one was a FW one back in the day; resin was much worse so magnets were the way to go.

Now? GW ones are floppier, but magnets hold true and are super damn cheap
>>
>>51861538
Rustoleum primer is perfectly fine as a primer for miniatures. I use their black/grey all the time when I don't feel like setting up my airbrush.
>>
>>51861618
>Tamiya Clear Red.

I've used Vallejo Transparent Red for my Word Bearers instead of Tamiya Clear Red, though I use a hand brush instead of an airbrush. It seems like it might be mroe forgiving than Tamiya, though perhaps it might not give the same bright candy effect needed for Thousand Sons.
>>
>>51861696
Any tips? When I was a kid I had my dad do the priming for me but I live alone now.
>>
Since Drop Pods are a hit topic this thread, how should I paint them for my Night Lords? Really, the question is more about Lightning and where and how much I should apply it. I might later spring for some FW etched Brass, too.
>>
>>51859583
You used to call me on the Nodal, late night when you need my lord.
>>
>>51858199
>How should I prime my minis?

Unless you have to prime in entire batches for time reasons, I'd recommend using Vallejo Surface Primer with a paint brush. It only takes a few minutes to prime a figure and the coverage is great.
>>
>>51861834
I don't know, it's not really brain surgery or anything. Try to find a spot out of the wind. Make sure you really properly shake the can. Don't spray to close or too far. You're not trying to drown the miniature so do quick spray bursts moving across the miniature where you start spraying before you aim at the mini and stop spraying after you've moved past the mini.
>>
>>51862051
Would you say it's safe to use Rustoleum vs Citidel brand or like a krylon? Or am I gonna fuck myself?
>>
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>>51860453
>I did prime, I use black matte spray paint
>I use black matte spray paint
>black matte spray paint
>spray paint

SPRAY PAINT IS NOT FUCKING PRIMER
SPRAY PAINT IS NOT FUCKING PRIMER
SPRAY PAINT IS NOT FUCKING PRIMER

LET ME REPEAT THAT, IN HOPES IT WILL PENETRATE YOUR SKULL, LIKE A BOLTER SHELL SHOULD

SPRAY PAINT IS NOT FUCKING PRIMER
SPRAY PAINT IS NOT FUCKING PRIMER
SPRAY PAINT IS NOT FUCKING PRIMER

HOLY FUCK HOW FUCKING DENSE DO YOU HAVE TO BE TO EVEN THINK THEY'RE REMOTELY THE SAME

PRIMER IS USED TO GIVE YOUR PAINT A SURFACE TO ADHERE TO, SPRAY PAINT DOES NOT.
IN ADDITION, PRIMER HELPS TO PREVENT BARE MATERIAL SHOWING THROUGH WHEN PAINTING LESS OPAQUE COLORS (SUCH AS YELLOWS AND WHITES).

ALL SPRAY PAINT IS IS JUST PAINT MIXED WITH A PROPELLANT AND DISPERSED VIA ATOMIZATION. WITHOUT A PROPER SURFACE TO STICK TO (I.E. ONE YOU'VE FUCKING PRIMED, YOU PLEB), IT WILL RUB RIGHT OFF OF WHATEVER SURFACE YOU TRY TO APPLY IT TO

YES, I'M FUCKING MAD
>>
>>51861540
>mfw my painting music

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TA2DoH5MrCI

I like OPN's videos though.
>>
>>51862107
I don't know what krylon is like as I have not used them, but yes I would suggest rustoleum primer over citadel every time. Firstly because citadel sprays are not primers and secondly because rustoleum is 1/4 the price.
>>
>>51862136

It might be a primer without him even knowing. A lot of people don't know the difference, like the people who think GW sells primers.
>>
>>51862199
One last question. I have a 10 year old can of unused gw black primer. Does it go bad? Or can I still use it?
>>
>>51862254

Paint doesn't expire, but it could go bad because of other factors. Shake the can. Is it still liquid? Check the nozzle. Does it still spray? If it still sprays fine and hasn't clumped up it's still good.
>>
>>51862254
Old spray cans can go bad depending on how they were stored because of environmental factors or might have clogged nozzles but it could still be fine too. You can always do a test spray. But to reiterate, GW's sprays are not primers. They're just spray paint.
>>
>>51862200
>like the people who think GW sells primers.
I see this claimed a fuck ton, but I've never seen anyone ever give an explanation. Actually thats a lie, one person said it wasn't primer because he didn't think it smelt like primer.
>>
>>51862386
>You can always do a test spray. But to reiterate, GW's sprays are not primers. They're just spray paint.
Seriously based on what. I'm not trying to be contrarian, I just want an explanation, cause at this point it's sounding like a meme.
>>
>>51862479

Citadel sprays are smooth to the touch. Primers should feel toothy or slightly rough. Citadel sprays are hard enough to strip off plastic so I'd say you could probably use them as a primer just fine, or they might be a really shitty smooth primer or something.

But even GW's website says they're used for basecoating, not priming or undercoating.
>>
>>51862479

Go fucking explain why you think it's a primer, asshole. Even GW calls it a fucking base. Do you use your GW base paints as paint on primer?

The burden of proof is with you faggot.
>>
>>51862495
>Primers should feel toothy or slightly rough. Citadel sprays are hard enough to strip off plastic so I'd say you could probably use them as a primer just fine, or they might be a really shitty smooth primer or something.
With black I agree, but the whites not like that.
>>
>>51862501
Primers are 60%-80% solvent, and the two primary ingredients of citadel chaos black are acetone, and xylene, both commercial solvents used to make primers.
Your turn asshole.
>>
>>
>>51862495
>Citadel sprays are smooth to the touch.

Not any that I've ever used. Their sprays I used turned my models into felt. Incidentally, I don't use sprays at all anymore.
>>
>>51862543
>>
>>51862543
>>51862559

Neat.
>>
>>51862559
and a closeup
>>
>>51862543
>>51862559
>>51862569

i love it, but i almost think this is conservative for what you could go for

just imo, but it looks great regardless! well done, friend
>>
>>51862543
My only criticism is the gold looks more pristine, while the rest looks fairly weathered. If that's intentional then power too you, otherwise weather up the gold more.
>>
>>51862574
thanks, i'm still playing around with doing moss effects so this and the deer were very much test statues. they cost me four and seven dollars respectively
>>51862588
i was thinking i might leave the gold like that like it's some kind of magical artefact, which would lend a usefulness to it being a magical ruin for age of sigmar
>>
>>51862495
I used almost all colours of citadel sprays and I never hard problems with them.
>>
>>51855492

Bloke's on his holidays and he still goes to work! That's what I call dedication. No wonder that other girl got the sack.
>>
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>>51856403

Fucking glorious.
>>
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>>51862540
>>
>>51862597
Mind if I ask where you picked the deer statue up? I love that look for some kinda Feywild based thing.
>>
>>51862597
>i was thinking i might leave the gold like that like it's some kind of magical artefact, which would lend a usefulness to it being a magical ruin for age of sigmar
See, I get that. I thought it might be intentional, and it definitely looks unnatural/magical. So again, power to you.
>>
>>51862540
>and the two primary ingredients of citadel chaos black are acetone, and xylene

[citation needed]
>>
>>51862633
at a charity shop, it's just a little wooden bookend thing. didnt have any form of makers mark on it, sorry
>>51862634
thanks! :)
>>
>>51862540

That's also the ingredients of non-primer spraypaints, jackass.
>>
I was thinking about going with mkiv armor for my 40k Alpha Legion. Should I try to convert them to look chaotic or just paint them as-is.
>>
>CHAOS BLACK IS A PRIMER

nigga who ever heard of a gloss primer
>>
>>51862652

Just paint them in 30k colors.
>>
Some of my minis have an annoying shine when catching the light. Painting on a matte varnish such as Vallejo would fix this, correct?
>>
>>51862670
Sounds good, thanks.
>>
>>51862543
Looks like he has really long fingernails that he's using to scratch his back. Looks awesome though.
>>
>>51862682
it should! i cant speak for vallejo but i've used other brush on matte finishes and it does kill the sheen nicely

just be sure to watch out for brush strokes
>>
>>51862703
Awesome. Which brands do you recommend?
>>
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>>51862637
Okay, at this point I'm sure this is just a fucking meme.
>>
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>>51862730
this is what ive used on both 40k projects and gunpla

seems to work okay!
>>
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I just got through adding severe heat-deformation to some of the guns on my dreadnoughts. The leviathan's storm cannon, and my contemptors Melta+chainfist and Kheres all got pretty much the same treatment. I'm wanting to give the impression that these two have gone an upsurd amount of time without maintenance.
>>
>>51851184
How long did it take you with that stuff? I tried before and it really didn't seem to help... maybe I should have gotten a stiff brush and not a soft one?
>>
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>>51862773
And here's the Contemptor. I wanted to do this effect because of how silly I realized having a Chainfist and a meltagun in one hand is. The melta's beam would be just an inch above the chainfist's chain, frequently exposing it to EXTREME temperatures.
>>
>>51862776
>stiff brush
Yes, thats a must.
>>
>>51862803
I can never seem to find stiff toothbrushes at CVS. When I asked the lady at the counter, she just looked at me like I was from another planet...
>>
>>51862759
Thanks for the recommendation. While I'm merely going for a presentable tabletop standard, having a shiny army is simply ugly to look at.
>>
>>51862820
Generally they're the least bought kind, so most places won't even sell them. Look in pharmacys they should have a few.
>>
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I'm trying to decide on a dark green stack for my marines.

I'm torn between:

Caliban Green - Warpstone Glow - Moot Green

Caliban Green - Warboss Green - Skarsnik Green

Caliban Green - Kabalite Green - Sybarite Green

Caliban Green - Loren Forest - Straken Green

Pic Related is the glow/moot stack.
>>
>>51862912
B-but CVS is a pharmacy!

God damn it, just my luck.
>>
>>51862954
>Shading at the end
Huh. I've always done
>Base
>Shade
>Layer
>Highlight
>>
>>51862956
Didn't realize. They were hard to find here, I only found two in one specific pharmacy here, but they make a world of difference in stripping.
>>
>>51862968
The other way gives a more dulled effect, while your way gives a sharper brighter effect. If you can, paint two models with the same colours but switch when you shade around. You'd be surprised how it can subtly change a model for great effect.
>>
>>51863010
That makes a lot of sense, I was actually wondering why my grey looked so bright.
>>
>>51855492
What are the chances he will be at Chatswood?!
>>
>again the same discussion about whether or not chaos black spray is primer
Don't you understand that it doesn't matter?

The fact is that product, whatever it is, provides a hard, thin undercoat over any material, that doesn't strip off, and makes paint stick to the surface no problem, so even if it is actually not a """primer""", it serves perfectly as one.

Stop your autism about labels. The only thing you could argue about is the price.
>>
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>>51862954

Warboss/skarsnik for comparison.
>>
>>51862954
>>51863446

Warboss/Skarsnik looks better, IMO. The Biel-Tan dulls it down a bit too much, makes the armour look kind of boring and flat.

>>51862968
>>Shading at the end
The Biel-Tan's being used to tint the highlights and dull them down while shading at the same time, kind of like a mixed wash/glaze.
>>
>>51859117
haaa i get the joke
>>
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>>51861567
Weather it anon, it's the grim darkness of the 41st millennium.

Looks great though
>>
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>>51862773
Why is your Leviathan dread cosplaying as Grizzlor?
>>
>>51863312
>Stop your autism about labels
>labels people autists

You're going in the hypocrite jar.
>>
>>51862731
>completely separate list of ingredients
>missing several ingredients found in primer
>IT MUST BE A PRIMER

I guess if a can has mostly paint in it, and primer has mostly paint in it, all paints in cans are primers.

Those aren't even "primer ingredients" it's just generic paint thinner. Because, you know, spray paint has to be thin.
>>
>>51863477

I was speaking more of just the paints themselves, so just looking at picture 3 of the first photo and the last step of the second.
I use Biel-Tan as a second step to punch up the saturation of the Caliban basecoat.

Here's something close to the Loren/Straken stack, only using Elysian instead so imagine a somewhat less yellow green as the final highlight.
>>
>>51863668
>How to paint a Salamanders Scout
>>
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>>51859961
>And now, looking at your mini, I'm imagining a paved street with a couple stones missing...and underneath the stones is scaly flesh and a big ol' eye or something

Well I like that idea too, and it's quite fitting since these bases are supposed for my tzeentch army.

Maybe I'm actually giving some of the bigger bases a eye or a mouth there thanks for the inspiration.

>>51855507
Sorry for the late answer.

First you grab yourself one of those thinner packaging cartons, from your cereal as example. Then you cut yourself some brick shapes, I did it with a xacto knife. Your decision how big the bricks gonna be.

Then I made myself some shapes out of the same cardboard glued the bricks in pattern on the shapes let them dry and then cut off the excess bricks, a sharp knife is really your friend at this part.

Glue the part to base as wished prime it.
And then get agrellan earth or any crackle paste between the shapes. But don't forget to get some paint under on the base before agrellan you don't want it just black down there

Rest is just paints, a lot of dry brushed paint
>>
>>51862773
i hope you know that ghillie suit dread looks shit as
>>
>>51855278
mate... what are you doing...
>>
>>51862136
>>51862479
>>51862495
>>51862501
>>51862637
>>51863633
Ok guys lots of misconceptions about this so let me explain...

it comes down to "define primer" technically GW black/white spray (w/e they are called now) are primer for plastic minis because the thiners/solvents in them work much the same as a primer would.

acrylic paints form a layer of skin over the mini almost, just really really thin. Primer or on the other hand bonds a thin layer of paint to the plastic (if you get a bit of sprue and try to scratch it off it will take a lot of effort and in most cases bend/break/scratch the plastic before as opposed to scratching off paint). If you don't shake/ use the GW black/white properly then try to strip you'll see minor deformations in the plastic from the solvent/thinner melting it.

that being said, it's not a primer for metal models and i don't know much about priming metal. I've also experienced problems with some resin cast stuff (i've bought from ebay/z/several other china men) and GW primer, but i think that for the msot part was weird resin or release agents not cleaned off properly.

GW black/white works fine as primer on plastic minis though
>>
>>51864194

They have special metal primers that slightly etches the metal, but most people just use regular primer on metal which can chip.
>>
>>51864194
>GW black/white works fine as primer on plastic minis though
Nope
>>
>>51864243

Maybe by "fine" he meant "well it didn't melt the model..."
>>
>>51864243
sitting here scratching the fuck out of a sprue primed black with black GW spray. paint is not chipping or scratching off.
>Nope
Yup.
>>
>>51864260
>Yup.
Nope.
>>
>>51864243
>>51864403
Yes it does, I dont know what kind of dumb fucktard you have to be if your paint doesnt stick to your models or gets rubbed off.
>>
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Cannot wait for the next Toughest Girls kickstarter.

Inquisitor Sigryph and the mysterious eldar spirit stone he keeps around his neck, unaware of how it slowly tempts him with the corruption of She Who Thirsts.
>>
>>51859583
The trick is, you need to actually put LIGHT in that lightbox, Anon.
>>
>>51860331
I did.... Whilst on my phone.
>>
>>51864856
RIP, your data plan.
>>
So, I've been painting for years, but am currently in a phase of self-improvement. I want to make sure I'm getting this right. When doing edge highlights, you want to use multiple thin coats to gain a smooth transition from your base color to your highlight, rather than fewer coats to achieve a sharper, harder highlight, correct?
>>
>>51865389
Yeah, while concentrating the highlights towards the most prominent areas that the light would catch on. Corners, upper edges, etc. Definitely don't make the mistake of making super-bright highlights on the lower edge of a piece of armour, where very little light should catch.
>>
>>51853658
Kankerslecht
>>
>>51850049
Good work .... But it is a real shame about that green bookmark. The contrast is an eyesore that draws the eye and takes away from the rest of the model.
>>
>>51853658
>superior plastic version
>don't want it to become super thick
>practice without ruining it
Um...
>>
>watch video tutorial on youtube
>after the guy goes over what he's going to do it goes into fast forward mode with some generic electronic music played over the top, which is pretty normal
>suddenly there's "singing" in the music
>it's the most painfully terrible, off-key singing ever, singing about how "sexy" this tone-deaf woman is and how badly you want her
There's no way this wasn't his overweight girlfriend's original music she'd somehow convinced him to put in there.
>>
>>51864403
autism.
>>
>>51864243
are you literally autistic?

it may be expensive but gw primer is pretty good, use to use it on my minis before i got an airbrush.
>>
>>51864243
It really is, don't talk utter shit.
>>
>>51860515
pretty great
>>
weird question, but anybody got a picture of anything painted Xereus Purple with Guilliman Blue on top? I want to know what the result would look like.
>>
>>51861582
Tamiya primer is actually an outstanding primer.

Mr surfacer 1500 is, of course the best primer of all time.
>>
Hey /wip/, I'm painting up my BoP Mk3 marines as Imperial fists using Duncans "Yellow over black" tip ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_XqLR2orls this one and yes I know, I'm retarded for using black primer for yellow). The Averland sunset goes over black pretty easily, but I'm having an absolute bitch of a time working with the yriel yellow, particularly in getting the thinning right

Any tips on working with that color?
>>
>>51866182
retard
>>
>>51865575
you have to link it for others to confirm or refute your findings
>>
>>51862136
I prime with black spray paint all the time, its fine as a primer
>>
>>51861567
Awesome job. I'd love to see it weathered anon
>>
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Finally mostly-finished with my first model in eight years; a Chimera for my new guard army. For the most part I'm satisfied with it, but I'm going to work on the mud effects a bit more since I'm not 100% on it. Tried to do an old, dried mud look with fresh, darker mud on top of that, which looks fine in places, but the tops are where I'm iffy. I think I just need to add a bit more of the lighter stuff so the tracks don't look so much like a mud conveyor belt and more like tracks that have been spinning around and ripping up ground for days.

Any suggestions or recommendations for the mud effects are welcome, and apologies for the mediocre pictures.
>>
>>51864194
Hey yall I'm wondering if the GW paint-on primer is the same? I used it on an old mini as a test, and I remember it chipping off even after letting it set for more than a week (plastic)

Also I do remember when I was new, how the GW primer spray meled or left corrosion spots on my firewarriors but nobody believed me when I brought it up at my flgs
>>
>>51866967
>GW
>paint-on primer
??
>>
>>51867031
Go to workshop and look in the Technical selection of paint
>>
>>51866913
I really like what you did, it looks great, especially on the front and sides
>>
>>51867043
Wow, didn't know this actually exists.
>>
>>51866182
Yriel yellow is a bitch of color, try to use a coat of 50% yriel, and 50% averland, and then go up to yriel.
>>
>>51862773
Obsurd
>>
>>51859117
sensible chuckle
>>
>>51867203
So, averland basecoat followed by 50% yriel and 50% averland, then a coat of yriel?

Will try that out, thanks!
>>
>>51862660
Gloss primer is great sometimes. Alcad gloss works great with Metallics.
>>
>>51867049
Thanks, duderino. Guess I might just be second-guessing myself.
>>
>>51867227
Absurd you mong, don't correct people if you're also incorrect.
>>
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Finished convertion for a space wolf pre heresy sergeant. The helm looks a little bit chaosy but wanted to give them that ancient viking vibe.
>>
Just emptied my first can of spray paint. Got an Onager Dunecrawler + all weapon options, 6 Kataphron Destroyers with all weapon options, a Tech-Priest Dominus and a few smaller bits and pieces sprayed with it.

Is that a normal amount of surface to get done with it or did I use too much for my shit? Kind of feel like it's not a whole lot of models for a 13,50โ‚ฌ, 400ml spray can.
>>
>>51867421
His arms appear massive and his legs seem tiny, from the front at least. His billowing pubic hair only lends to the illusion. Otherwise get ready for people to sperg out over the horns because the vikings didn't have them.
>>
>>51867451
well 'barbarian' then, since celts and lots of more ancient cultures had horns. The proportions are just MkIII not much can be done, the kilt is a keeper though since its for a scottish friend.
>>
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>>51867421
>but wanted to give them that ancient viking vibe.
>horned helmet

>>51867451
>get ready for people to sperg out over the horns because the vikings didn't have them.

AS THE PROPHESY FORETOLD

Seriously, it doesn't make him look viking at all, it looks like a really bad skyrim cosplay. If you were going to add horns for a stereotypical wrong viking look you wanted a pointed helm, like a spangenhelm, instead of messing with what is very obviously a great helm.

3/10 has all his limbs.
>>
>>51862660
>nigga who ever heard of a gloss primer
Gloss Primers are fantastic for metallics, Alclad has one, so does Vallejo, and the effect it has on metallic paint is quite something.
Very shiny, reflective metallics are the end result.
>>
>>51867203
is there some arcane reason why yriel can't have the same coverage as averland?
>>
>>51867430
For a whole can? No that's crazy.
>>
>>51867430
My last can of GW black was used on: a Rhino, 10 Marines, a Cerastus Knight Lancer, a Razorback and Magnus.

All in various sub assemblies. So you might have been overspraying a bit.
>>
>>51867652
>arcane

All acrylic paint is translucent.
Lighter colours more so.
If you want a bold, solid coat of a lighter colour, it will take fewer layers if you use a darker colour initially and then apply your desired colour on top of it.

Imagine stacking layers of coloured films, transparent plastic. You will need more sheets of a lighter film to block out a black backdrop than if you block it with an intermediate that's darker and then add your lighter film on top.
>>
>>51867706
I'm just saying the coverage difference between yrial and averland is pretty significant.
>>
>>51867697
>>51867656
Guess I'll be a bit more reserved with it next time around. had a few surfaces that were pretty much flat white because I did so many goes over it.
>>
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Hey guys, so I need some help identifying models. I bought a guy's whole army and I found these guys in a box labeled crew. I don't recognize any of them and would love some help identifying them.
>>
>>51867762
Because the strength and boldness difference between those 2 yellows is pretty significant.
One was designed for coverage (as such has a duller, darker finish) and the other for bright popping yellow, but has less coverage as a result of not having the filler material the duller colour has.
>>
>>51867946
From right to left : Runeshimt, Mster engi, 3 x Bolt thrower crew ,3 x flame cannon crew(i think)
>>
>>51868131
I have a flame cannon, and none of the crew match, unless it's from an older version which is possible. Thanks very much.
>>
>>51867946
From left to right:
>1: Not sure but would guess runesmith
>2: Unsure
>3: Cannon crew
>4: I think stone thrower
>5: Bolt thrower
>6: Unsure
>7: I think that's an exclusive master engineer from one of those giant boxes they did with the latest dorfs release
>8: Unsure
>>
>>51867946
Left to right.
Three metal crew for the old metal organ gun,
Next three I don't know.
Master engineer
Rune smith, one of the older ones.
>>
>>51850049
A guy from our local club managed to get himself one of those (which is no easy feat, third world markets) and he painted the miniature overnight.

And it looks just mediocre. No highlights, thick metals, no shine.

He hyped his way through painting it and now the centerpiece of the fucking army looks just like any skitarii he (badly) painted.
>>
Should I use edge highlights or drybrushing for folds on white cloth robes? I feel like drybrushing might give a bit of a more "cloth" look to it.
>>
>>51868746
Highlight, but do so by painting thin lines across the fold, starting your stroke closer to the recess and ending it on top of the fold. This feathers your highlights and gives you that rougher cloth texture.
>>
>>51862182
this is terrible music. The same fucking riff with the same fucking beat for 2 minutes, what the fuck

is this fucking gandalf banging his head to eurovision sax guy?
>>
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>>51866182
Don't use yriel yellow if it's not too late.

Your much better off doing say 50/50 Averland, and ushabti bone. I used it for pic related.
>>
Bruh why is Simple Green so bad at getting rid of primer? I'm trying to get rid of all the shitty primer jobs on my models from last year.
>>
>>51859583
>You used to call me on my tomb world
>>
having a bit of trouble deciding which color to choose for the central gauss gem thingy on the chest.
was thinking on going with green on with this screamer pink color.
Which one would you pick?
>>
>>51869642
For a moment, I thought the rune on his loincloth said, "Tom."

And now I'm laughing at the idea of Tom, a Sorcerer of the Thousand Sons.
>>
>>51855278
give her some eyelids, look on the internet for eyes that you find pretty and copy them. Like the eyes from titania from fire emblem for example.

Or Boudica.
>>
>>51867031

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Technical-Imperial-Primer
>>
>>51869734
well he is just a rubric tought, Tom is next in line btw...


Anyways, should I go green or purple? Green is to imitate the old illustration of the index astartes article in its complete splendour.
>>
>>51869734
Some call me... Tom?
>>
>>51869871
I demand that you call him Tom forever.

He must always be Tom.
>>
>>51869831
Bit late to the party there, >>51857962 is what it looks like now.

How big is that bust anyway? Copying results from a large scale bust on a smaller mini is a recipe for pain.
>>
>>51869490
Four marines too late. Just tried out >>51867203 's recipe and it's working out great. But speaking of, what parts did you use for that conversion? I might do something similar for my Praetor.
>>
>>51869971
her yes now look like those of the infected from bloodborne. Srsly m8.
It's not that hard, you can always practice with a pen and paper.

As for the bust well you can always just google for Boudica bust.
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