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WIP: Work in Progress General

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Post stuff, you hacks.

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently Offline

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf
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Posting the PS an anon did of Roboute when I said it could be converted into the Emperor.

Also reposting link another anon found about a soon to be AMA with Duncan. Set an alarm guys.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Grimdank/comments/5ru5ge/on_tuesday_february_7th_at_9pm_gmt_our_spiritual/?sort=confidence
>>
>>51544034
>he's doing it in the sub meant for memes
why?
>>
>>51544034

looks like a mexican grandma
>>
I think I'm using the Master's Brush Soap wrong.

It gets most of the paint out of the hairs, but a small amount of color stays, and hours after I rinse the soap out, the hairs kinda get like... solid? This lasts until they touch water and then they're fine.
>>
>tfw huge backlog
>several hundred models, many of which are very large
>just took a ~30 model commission from a friend cause I needed the money
Mistakes have been made.
>>
>>51544152
No wonder Trump wants to build a wall if mexican grandmas are golden giant wielding flaming swords.

>>51544158
https://youtu.be/rlVIz9EKfk0
>>
>>51544158
>unironically using meme soap
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>>51544199
Oh I've been using this shit completely wrong.

I've been abusing my poor brushes.
>>
>>51544175
Idk whats worse, a small backlog of stuff you cant bring yourself to paint(me) or a huge backlog and buying more.

I just really hate these Crisis suits. I wish i had known they were redoing the sculpt when i started. I dont even WANT crisis suits, I'd rather just make Knarlocs or just have Broadsides):
>>
>>51544238
>or a huge backlog and buying more.

This is my problem.

>Be in class, thinking about models
>Next thing I know I'm at the LGS buying another fucking box
>I get home and put it in my closet
>There's currently 22 boxes in there
>I don't even have a job, I just use my loan refunds
I hate myself.
>>
>>51544238
All modelers have a huge backlog. It comes with the territory.
>>
>>51544263
What have you got in your backlog, anon?
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>>51544385
Basically my entire guard army.

I'm not a very good painter, so I kinda get turned off once I actually look at the boxes.

I'm a moron, really.
>>
>>51544097
Because Duncan is, dare I say it, /ourguy/
>>
>>51544416
Tell me about it friendo. My problem is tanks. I love the Imperial Guard thematically because they're how I really got into the setting through Gaunt's Ghosts and Ciaphas Cain and shit, and they'll always be my favourite faction even if I collect others, but the actual process of ASSEMBLING vehicles is really draining for me, even with the simple instructions.

I just get bored and end up ebaying some fucker's old stuff, then soaking it in dettol for a week and redoing it in my scheme.
>>
>>51544455
I have a paint scheme now (except I can't figure the highlight for the flak armor. Base Steel Legion Drab, Agrax wash, Tallarn Sand layer, then ????), and am doing my Command Squad in sub-assembly mode to at least try and get some of them done.
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My first greenstuff project turned out surprisingly well so I've jumped into a new one while I wait for paints to arrive, a Nurgle daemon prince. A fair bit more details and layers to go.

Trying to decide which way to go with the head, will probably scratch build something. Some googling for ideas turned up a really similar conversion that used a Tyranid head as a base and looked great, so that's an option.
>>
>>51544497
Would Ushabti work? It's got that sort of creamy, off-beige tinge. You might want something more yellowy, though. I'll have a think.
>>
>>51544529
Ushabti might work.

And for the fatigues, I'm doing The Fang -> Nuln Oil -> Russ Grey layer -> Ulthuan Grey highlight.
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>>51544503
that's not half bad actually
>>
>>51544359
Well i suppose i jaded myself by having two piles. 'Backlog' which is my army(tau, converted auxiliaries), or stuff i plan out then never finish, and 'bonus' which is MKIII marines, CSM, and half an old dark vengeance DA set
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I'm taking the Heralds Anarchic which consist of 9 heralds of Tzeentch. Would it be legal to use these guys as my Heralds? Moon Man herald is real shitty.
>>
>>51544564
That's gonna be interesting. I woulda thought to do drab fatigues and steely-greyish armour, but that's kind of predictable, right? So I imagine the inverse is going to be very eyecatching. It's promising you have a clear idea of all the paints you'll need before you begin, too.

My guys are kitbashed Catachans themed around a recon regiment so obviously murky browns and greys predominate. I'm trying to get it so the colours really pop against certain backgrounds but blend in to certain types of terrain.
>>
>>51544754
>Would it be legal to use these guys as my Heralds?
sure? they're the right size and look like wizardy daemon dudes

>Moon Man herald is real shitty.
fuck off he's a national treasure
>>
>>51544783
Yeah, I'm doing it in the inverse because I'm doing toxic swamp bases and I like how the scheme looks on them, plus the scheme gives a nice contrast to all the fucking RED at my store.
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>>51544790
Okay next question, if I have necromunda models that I recast myself are they legal to use anywhere? Want to make myself these for my rapier laser crews but I'll be modifying classic FW renegades for zombies.
>>
>>51544900
>if I have necromunda models that I recast myself are they legal to use anywhere?
technically not kosher, but they're out of production, so do whatever you want

Thing with recasted stuff is no one will throw a fit or likely even notice if you just go and play with it.
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>>51544900
Going to use this as my HQ, count as "Ordnance Tyrant" and I figure this fits just perfectly.
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>>51544955
Even in tournaments?
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>>51544503

Pretty darn good, mate.
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>>51544503
personally I would use a mix of the Rotfly head with the long "schlong" in his face, and add Antlers to it.

I know of the tyranid headed-one, but to be honest, I like yours better so far, and I think you could probably cook something up that looks better.
Keep us posted.
>>
>>51544987
Even in tournaments. Just don't go HEY ORGANIZER MY ENTIRE ARMY IS RECASTED AND I WILL LIKELY NEVER SUPPORT YOUR STORE FINANCIALLY OUTSIDE OF TOKEN PURCHASES IS THAT COOL?

Shit, it's rare that anyone will even touch your models.
>>
>>51545033
No I'm talking like Ardboyz, 11th Company etc
I made a list that I don't think can be beaten
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>>51545051
Still probably fine, as I said people don't usually touch other people's models, which is the only way you'd ever be able to tell if a metal model is recasted.
>>
>>51544600
>>51545012
Thanks.

>>51545013
Thank you. Yeah I was thinking of using the proboscis head as a base but I want to have a human element to it so may just wing it. Will have a go tomorrow.
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Just shipped these two out in just under an hour for my dad's Hail Caesar Gaul army.
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>>51545164
tfw youll never be a fa/tg/uy with your dad
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>>51544238
The worse is being fucking broke, my friend
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>>51545125
If someone picked them up and asked why they're resin what could I say? That I recasted them myself? I was under the assumption it's okay to have something you cast yourself as long as it's OOP but people may see a recasted non GW/FW unit as "non existent"
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>>51545164
A little highlight on the gold would do it wonders. Love it anyways.
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>>51545223
>If someone picked them up and asked why they're resin what could I say?
just say you didn't want to take a knife to classic models
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>>51545211
>currently broke
>working through my backlog

It's not so bad.
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>>51544503
This looks great, but it needs more tentacles
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>>51545211
Thats the thing. I am broke.
Half the reason i dont want to paint crisis, is because i need new paints.
>>
>>51544900
Step 1: Don't say anything up front
Step 2: If someone does pick you up on it, pick a story:
>I bought them on ebay and when they arrived it turned out they weren't metal :(

You might get some shit for it, but no fucker is going to demand proof of purchase. If they tell you to fuck off after that, tough luck but that's a risk you take by playing recasts in an official environment.
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>>51545260
Yeah, that's a good suggestion. Maybe if I have the originals painted and done up there just for confirmation that I have the originals and just don't want to fuck up the paintjobs?
>>
>getting some nice progress done on my guardsmen
>realize i forgot to buy paints for skin
god DAMN it
every time
>>
>>51545363
something like that would probably be enough, yeah

but really, just don't advertise that you recast stuff and people ain't gonna care
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>>51545269
can't imagine being broke and still committing to an expensive hobby. Usually found a way to make it pay for itself with commissions but would never buy anything without being in the green.
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>>51545349
To be fair I'll have close to half of what I need in my army AS ORIGINALS if that would be a better idea. 50% real, 50% recast by myself?
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>>51545402
>place 1st in tourney, or high in GT (not saying I'll ever place 1st in a GT)
>word spreads from someone I stomped that I have recasts in my army
wat do
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>>51545341
>>51545269
>tfw so broke that you always follow the threads and painting tutorials but you are not even in the hobby

I like them pretty miniatures alright
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>>51545370
I make myself lists and everything, double check, and I STILL come back from the hobby store either missing a pot or three I planned to buy or with a color I already have a full pot of. I'm a terrible shopper
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>>51545465
nothing? it's a warhammer tournament, dude

people don't care that much
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>>51545408
Started when I still had disposable income, waiting for new job to start later in the year but until then I don't have the moneys for new models. Situations change, anon.
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>>51545497
Okay. Thanks alot for you input.
>>
>>51544503
Could go the Berserk route and put a human face on it.
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>>51545481
I should go buy the paints for skin, but knowing my stupid ass, I'll come home with like, Betrayal at Calth too.
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So question for the re/casters: what kind of resin do you use for your casts or recasts? I have polyurethane but it doesn't seem to take paint well or at all - it flakes off almost immediately when I handle it. I don't know if this is because of the polyurethane itself or something I haven't done to clean it up. Suggestions?
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>>51545776
have you remembered to use primer before putting on any other paint ?
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>>51545776
Do you spray your molds with release agent?
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>>51545776
Are you using mould release? Are you washing them off in soapy water? I use urethane as well, from Smooth-On
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>>51545818
No, I don't have a LGS so don't have access to the primers everybody else uses. I hear of people using regular rattlecan primer but haven't gotten it myself - is it worth it / will it work?

>>51545821
Only when making the mold, not when molding parts. I'll rub it down with some alcohol to make sure there's no residue, though.

>>51545904
See above. No, will give them a bath then. I'm using Oomoo 30 and Smooth-Cast 300.
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>>51545936
So.. You're not priming?
If you have Home Depot/Lowes/Walmart near you get these. You can also have sprays shipped.
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>>51544900
>Oh hey, nice models, anon! Oh, why are they resin?
>Oh, I recast all of my metal minis to keep them from toppling over all the time and getting damaged.
>AARGH WHY DONT YOU SUPPORT THE HOBBY GW MAKES ALL THIS SHITTY BROKEN GAME FOR YOU OUT OF THE KINDNESS OF THEIR HEARTS SO YOU NEED TO BUY 800 BILLION DOLL HAIRS WORTH OF PLASTIC FROM THEM TO SHOW YOUR APPRECIATION
>Chill the fuck out, bro. I recast them myself, which means I already paid money for the originals. Besides, it's not like GW or the FLGS would be making any money off my purchase of used models, anyway. You might as well ban the resale of minis outright if that's the way you think.
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>>51545976
All I got at the moment. Will grab some next time I'm at the store if this doesn't work since it's made for metal, then.
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>>51545990
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finished his base now, too. I quite like it.
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>>51546082
Are your models rusty metal? Not sure how you thought this could work.
and what's the deal with the toe finger
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>>51546236
also been doing a little more work on my Daemon Prince. The "head" in his head is supposed to be how he was before nurgle. Think a little bit like some of the Apostles from Berserk.

I'm also wondering if I should use the Clawed hand from the Maggoth Lord and replace one fist with it. Thoughts?
>>
random, quick question:

is having warm water bad for thinning paint, or does it not matter aside from ice water/boiling?
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>>51546259
Like I said, all I got right now; I don't think it'll work but if it does, great. Finger's because of a weird camera angle and grip.
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>>51544199
so youre.. meant to let some soap dry on the brush?
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>>51546181

"Oi, fuck of mate!"

He just has that expression... Nice work so far!
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Just got this as a gift from a friend, he made it himself.
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>>51546354
It's not mine, just photoshopped him armless except to have the ability to give a thumbs up as thanks
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>>51546405
That's really cool.
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>>51546405
Nice Hyrule symbol
>>
Is there anyway to reliably apply washes to large, flat surfaces like a Rhino hull using brushes or are my tanks doomed to look like shit until I get an air brush?
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>>51546405
Why are your friends giving you nazi eagles.

Super nazi eagles, with two heads. And no swastikas.
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>>51544199

Or... just a opinion, you could just use REGULAR GOOD`OL FUCKING SOAP!
Man we "hobbyists" really get to nerdy when it comes down to it don't we? Hell, he´s even going through this with regular GW brushes. I could understand if your a registered artist, working with brushes worth of hundreds of dollars. But this is like... Insanity! I have used my old GW brushes for years on end, by simply washing them with liquid dish wash and water.
After, id I want to keep a good edge to the brush, I use saliva (yea you heard me!), that stiffens the brush and keeps the bristles in place until the next session.


But sure, don't mind me, I have only a good 20+ yeas in to the hobby, what would I know?!? Hell, I even remember when you used make-up as weathering powder, and actual hairspray for the hairspray technique!
>>
>>51546466
Water it down alot, apply a bunch of layers to dirty up areas inbetween plain and highlighted areas. It's called glazing.
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>>51546466
only use the wash in the recesses/around details like rivets
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>>51545776
>what kind of resin do you use for your casts or recasts?

I used Alumilite AlumiRes RC-3 Casting Resin for the Johnny on the right. Still getting the hang of not working in pewter.
>>
>>51546466

>Are my tank doomed to look like shit until I get an airbrush?

No, first of, what are you looking for here?
If you wash all that flat surface, of course you need to re-apply the base coat again?!? Have you learned nothing during your time in this hobby?
So, basic 101, paint base, wash, re-paint. Got that? Then its time for highlights, and this can be applied in stages, wetblends, edges and so forth. Depending on the time you want to spend, you will also get the quality out of it. And airbrush will do the blending part really well, but its not impossible to make look good with a brush, it just takes more time.
Alternative take, you paint it all, with highlights and all (this is usually done with an airbrush), then you gloss it, and then you use oil wash to get to those corners. Because remember, thats what you want with a wash, the hard corners. The rest is what blending is there fore.
Take three, you paint everything up to 11, then bring it down with a wash, wont look as good though on a big as rhino.

All in all, what I'm trying to say is this. Learn the fucking basics before you move on. Don't get a expensive tool you cant handle before you even know the basics of laying down a wash.
>>
>>51545164
I'm having the same problem with my gold on my khorne. I tried to thin it but it's still THICC AF
>>
>>51545480
that was me for years. only recently started actually buying and painting minis. it really helped starting with a lot of background knowledge. i had a much better idea of things to avoid or remember to do. i think my painting journey was partially accelerated by this, not that i'm any good (pic related).
>>
>>51546709
See, I know all of that, but my paint scheme is composed primarily of washes. Much like how some people paint their Alpha Legion with glazes. If I were doing a different scheme, I'd be doing recess washing.
>>
>>51547169
Hey don't put yourself down too much anon, those are pretty good for a newcomer to the hobby. I like the sept markings the blue and orange go really well
>>
This Vallejo Surface Primer being brushed on is a god send, but holy hell does it fuck up the brush I use for it.
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>>51547169

At least you picked god tier Sa'cea. If you're going to be a faggot Tau player at least you do it right unlike people who pick lame septs or don't even paint.
>>
>>51548255
Weird. Just wash your brush thoroughly, I didn't get any problems.
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>>51548368
I have been, but I think my stupid ass waited too long once, because part of it has been permanently stained black.
>>
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>paint something that isn't for my ultramarines
>GW drops plastic guilliman
[muffled screeching]

Anyways, next three space dudes in various states of incompleteness. Is the white scheme on the leader too much? Threw the red stripes on to break the space up a bit, but I'm just kinda winging it.
>>
>>51547169
>Sa'cea

Greater Good tier.
>>
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>>51543947
Just gotta drop these two:
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>>51548830
>Just gotta drop these two:
I wish you didn't. I hate that fucking guide. In every thread, the best pictures are the ones that don't follow that guide, and the worst pictures are the ones that do. Shit's fucking worthless.

I mean seriously, look at this: >>51548556 You can't even see the detail. Why? Because the mini is drowned out by the white light and white background. I guarantee you if you took that picture against a natural background with natural light it would look better. But they think they're doing it right because someone posts that stupid guide every single thread and as a result the quality of our photography goes down and down and down.
>>
>>51548896
Ok we get it, let people take pictures with whatever background they want. As long as they're cropped and in focus we won't give a shit.

Are you the same dude that made the exact same complaint some time ago? Jeez. Blow some steam mate.
>>
>>51548896
If you looked before bitching you might notice it's the 2.0 guide, with accompanying gradient backdrop.

Because I fucking hate white backdrops.
>>
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>>51548896
>the best pictures are the ones that don't follow that guide
Challenge accepted.
>>
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>>51548556
> Is the white scheme on the leader too much? Threw the red stripes on to break the space up a bit, but I'm just kinda winging it.

IMO it feels a bit weird. Something like that, maybe? Also, where are the miniatures from?
>>
>>51548991
Anon we need more pixels. And you should save your photographs as .pngs -- those have higher image quality, don''t you know anything about photography?
>>
>>51548991
bigger and blurrier, get it together anon
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>>51548996
>squad leader wears red underwear
>>
>>51549028
>>51549022
I know, I feels bad about it., it's my old camera, only 1,5 megapixels an dit saves in jpeg per default, well that or BMP but that's was 8 megs.
>>
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>>51548896
>Why? Because the mini is drowned out by the white light and white background.
No, it's literally just because the lighting is poor.

t. someone who does photo taking things for a job and just wanted quick scheme advice

>>51548996
I might do the white vest. The problem with making the shoulder pauldron greebles red is his raised arm doesn't have one for whatever reason and the asymmetry would drive me insane.

They're hasslefree minis. Pretty sweet ones too.
>>
>>51549037
> not wearing red underwear on duty.
Come on anon, don't come and the internet and tell lies.
>>
>>51545370
Just paint it light grey and use a brown/sepia wash on it.
>>
>>51548991
>"okay now you take the photo and i'll wobble the table"
>>
I HATE GUARD HEAVY FLAMERS FUCK THE RIGHT ARM IS SO FUCKING WEIRD TO ANGLE
>>
>>51549065
>not saving all your WIP images as bitmaps
>>
>>51548896
We've been over it before. You don't know shit about photography, and as a result you misdiagnose the problems with photos. So if you don't want to come across as a moron, sit down, shut up, and follow the fucking guide.
>>
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>>51548991
>>51549022
>>51549028
>>51549158
>>51549179
:^)
>>
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>>51549179
>bitmaps
get on my level
monochrome format appears to be unsupported so i had to resave it as a jpg
>>
>>51549280
it's beautiful
>>
>>51549179
No, i use .pdn as it preserves layers and hue/saturaion settings.
>>
>>51549280
I feel the warp overtaking me

it is a good pain
>>
>>51549280
Bloody perfect work anon! Truely the words of Duncan rang true to your ears!
>>
>>51549279
Nope. Not gonna do it and not gonna stop bringing it up. Fuck lightboxes. All they do is make your shit look worse.
>>
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>>51548991
My camera refused to lower itself to the level of flash and backlight, so pick your poison.
>>
>>51549390
See >>51549078 John Snow, because it's about time you knew something.
>>
>>51549399
The soldier matching the tool in the box is cute, but the backdrop of people calling him a sperg is better, I think.
>>
>>51549390
All you're accomplishing is showing everyone how retarded you are.
>>
>>51549421
Oh I see an anon posing as a true blue expert. But then I look at >>51548556 again and see two minis that aren't fucking visible at all and I realize that no, he has no idea what the fuck he's talking about.
>>
>>51549390
>All they do is reveal how shit your stuff looks.
>>
>>51549462
>wow this photo sucks because of all the "white lighting" and the white background
>no it sucks because there isn't enough light
>FUCK YOU I'M RIGHT
okay
>>
>>51549462
Yeah, the first pic is a bad pic. See, the guide doesn't cover everythign you can fuck up, it just covers the most common fuckups.

Now if you look at >>51549078 again you'll see that the mini there is nor perfectly visible, despite still using white light and the same snow white background. That's because the guy taking the pic bothered to make it a decent one that time. You know, enough light, getting the shit he's photographing in proper focus and all that.

It isn't the light-box (or if it's merely a sheet of paper behind the minis) that's the problem in >>51548556, it's that the photography work was quick and kinda sloppy. No guide ever can prevent that.
>>
>>51549462
Ok, so you posted a shit pic once, got the guide in response, and now your ass won't stop bleeding.

Mind reposting that pic? We could all use a good laugh.
>>
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>>51549507
Stop and think for a second. Use your brain.

Do you know what happens when you add more light to that photo? I'll tell you what happens: the mini gets darker relative to the backdrop and becomes even harder to see. White reflects more light than black does.

There's a reason why professional studio painters use dark backdrops and not white ones. It's because that way, when you shine light on the mini, your brain picks the mini out of the backdrop and not vice versa. There's a reason why professional photographers who take pictures of people for a living put moderately dark curtains behind them and not blank white sheets.

Contrast is a thing, and stop being an idiot and acting like it isn't. And stop recommending something that actively makes every picture taken with it worse.
>>
>>51549583
>I'll tell you what happens: the mini gets darker relative to the backdrop
this is how I know you don't know what you're talking about
>>
>>51545223
Bought em on eBay.
>>
>>51549606
And so that's you're justification for this being the only place that recommends and actively uses bright backgrounds for their photos?

The entire body of professional photography is wrong, but you're right because someone made a stupid, misguided guide and posted it a bunch and that's become canon to you?
>>
>>51549642
>The entire body of professional photography
anyways are you just here to shitpost, m8, or are you going to talk about painting models
>>
>started painting in september, my first figs ever
>had a canary yellow non-citadel paint and regular, glossy black spray paint
>start actually learning painting, have averland sunset, abbadon black, and eldar flesh paint
>now, 6 months later, this took 18 paints on top of my chaos black basing
I feel so damn good about how I've improved in these few months.
I can't wait until I can upgrade my phone and not deal with its potato camera.

What do you guys think of my paint scheme? It can't be seen here, but the wyches blades are all edged with some moot green to imply their poison.
>>
>>51549685
Interesting, looks a bit flat but works.
>>
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my first miniature in months, and my first nurgle one to boot! (it was a gift)
blease be gentle I'm still really new
>>
>>51549708
forgot to mention, NOT DONE
>>
>>51549702
I did a flat averland sunset to start, then lit it up with yriel yellow. I did some edge highlights with flash gitz, but you can't really tell in the potato quality of my camera.

The vehicle itself is also glossed with 'ardcoat.
>>
>>51549678
>>51549606
I'm not any of the anons that have posted so far, but >>51549583 is right, white backgrounds have a tendency to make everything look bad instead of showing the subject (unless it's a simple subject - which most minis aren't, by a long shot).
>>
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>>51549583
>>51549642
No one can be this genuinely retarded. You have to be trolling at this point.
>>
>>51549740
>white backgrounds have a tendency to make everything look bad instead of showing the subject
that is the exact opposite of what white backgrounds do

you just need to use the proper lighting
>>
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Anyone got some cool conversions based on this lad? I've had no ideas what to do with mine.
>>
>>51549802
Not trolling. Not retarded. Just speaking truth. I am sorry it triggers you.

Nice out of context example, by the way. You know why she's on a white background? It's so it's easy to photo manipulate her out of the background, so the contrast doesn't matter.
>>
>>51548556
Just white arms would look better imo.
>>
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>>51549886
Head and handswap does a lot for variaty
>>
>>51549886
Dark Apostle?
>>
>>51549886
Uh, excuse me, but doesn't GW know that NO professional photography uses a white backdrop? Please delete this picture.
>>
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>>51549920
>>51549886
>>
>>51549903
>Nice out of context example, by the way. You know why she's on a white background? It's so it's easy to photo manipulate her out of the background, so the contrast doesn't matter.
If you actually knew what you were talking about you'd understand that the same thing applies to miniature photography.
A white backdrop enable you to white balance after the fact.

And the issue with light is diffusing it. Direct light gives hard shadows, add a diffuser like in >>51549802 or how they are coming with a lightbox you get indirect softer light that lights up the subject more evenly.

The problem is that you know so little you don't understand how stupid you sound when you talk about this.
Just stop arguing for a minute and you google to look this shit up. You don't even have to get up for that, and it's a lot more worthwhile to spend your time on reading up on something than shitposting about it.
>>
>>51549903
Just admit you're wrong and walk away. You're embarrassing yourself.
>>
>>51549920
I like the simplicity of just changing out the weapons. As dope as the crozius he comes with is, kind of wasted by hiding the long shaft of it under his cape.
>>
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>>51550025
>>51549975
>>51549920
>>51549886
Resin parts are optional, would work just as fine with original parts.
>>
>>51550076
>>51549975
>>51549944
>>51549920
Thanks for the pics. That pelt on the one looks pretty slick, I think I'll give something like that a go.
>>
>>51549886
does anyone else this this model looks retarded?

Look at his stumpy rectangular trashcan legs, and overall weird proportions
>>
>>51550076
looks 10000x better
>>51550203
>>
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/p/ here, enjoying your thread
>>
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>>51549886
>>51549928
I went the Dark Apostle route, not too crazily converted.
>>
>>51550240
>tripfag

kys.
>>
>>51550240
is /p/ as bad at photography as >>51548896 is
>>
>sub-assembly without putty
aligning arms on IG special weapons shouldn't be this hard
>>
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Cataphractii done except for the bases
>>
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>>51550459
>consider the following
>>
>>51550459
I cataphractii'd my dick in your mom's ass
>>
>>51550459
Those metals badly need some small, bright highlights to make them pop.
>>
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>>51550476
And Greyfax's base is done, just have to clear up the metal and the green stuff a little bit
>>
>>51550485
I don't know what color to highlight brass with
>>
>>51550459
from the thumbnail i thought they had literally only been primed
>>
>>51550552
silver
>>
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Let's try this again
>>
>>51550669
lookin good so far
>>
>>51550669
Got a bit of red on one of your blades there.
>>
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I think I've made a modeling mistake with this one. Pic related (I fixed the spot I missed as soon as I saw the pic, and flash was required because I'm at work where the lightning is far away) is intended to be my MkIII test model, and in retrospect, I probably shouldn't have glued on the bolter, pistol, and sword. The latter two aren't so bad, but the bolter may be a problem.

What's the best way to handle this in the future? Paint them with the weapons on the sprue? Do I just prime the whole sprue and glue later?

I have a MKIV done that needs its CCW+Pistol because I forgot. Does glue stick to the paint, or do I need to fuck up the spot first?
>>
>>51550944
Painting the parts separately is typically the way to go for more complicated models like marines with rifles. I dunno about leaving them on the sprue but you could stick them to a holder like a toothpick with some bluetac if you wanted.
>>
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>>51550932
>>
>go to finally use the super glue I bought last month
>it's fucking clogged and won't make it all the way down the nozzle
AHHHHHHH
>>
>>51550944
Yeah, leaving out the bolter and hand/arm are common practice, as well as the head. Scraping paint of areas you're using plastic glue on is also a must if you do that.
>>
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Some people suggested more dynamic poses. How are these?
>>
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>>51551257
>>
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>>51551276
>>
>>51551276
>>51551293
better
>>
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Just got my dorfs, how would I go about fixing a mold slip in scale armor like pic related?
>>
>>51551416
It'd be tough. If you're good with greenstuff you could try that, or cover it up with a dagger or pouch bit.
>>
>>51551416
It could have been worse and slipped up/down along your dude's side. Greenstuff can easily cover that up without extra cutting.
>>
>>51551216

I actually had to glue the sword on with super glue because the plastic glue wouldn't hold.

>>51551016

I guess. That seems finicky, though.
>>
>>51551511
Hold it by the shoulder with no pauldron on, then. Paint everything except the shoulder, shave paint off the join and glue it on. Then stick the pauldron on and paint that.
>>
Have you ever just given up on giving a model a certain loadout because getting the arms in place was just not going to happen?
>>
>>51551682
Can't say that I have.

What are you trying to pull off, exactly?
>>
>>51551416
That's not mold slip, the scale edges match up. Unless the slip's in the direction of the camera, it's flash. You should be able to scrape it down.
>>
>>51551723
I was trying to get a Cadian Command squad guy to take a heavy flamer, but I couldn't get the arms to line up with the torso without one of them looking like it popped out of the socket.

I settled on giving him a plasma gun.
>>
>>51551754
Honestly I think that's just shitty design on old Cadian models. They all look like that (see melta and grenade gunners on GW site).

You could probably cut it up to make it more reasonable.
>>
>>51551811
Yeah, you might be right.

it's really making me regret starting Guard, but I guess I learned that this army's older sculpts will just make me stop at 1000 points worth of painting.
>>
>>51551852
Cadian Hostile environment squads from FW or china look much better. Don't know if they come with flamers, though.
>>
>>51551874
I'll look into them, thanks anon.

Lasrifle dudes are easy, the special weapons are the pain in the ass. Figure I should get them done first before making a blob of rifle-dudes.
>>
>>51551889
May want to practice modelling skills on your faceless rifle goons, lol.

Consider Scion models as well if you're doing Carapace dudes. Expensive, but cool for a Command Squad.
>>
>>51551923
I do have some Scions I put together, but I don't know if people at my store will let me use them as regular guardsmen, I hear they're pretty anal about WYSIWYG.
>>
>>51551942
That'd be kind of silly, because technically the only totally official WYSIWYG carapace armor you can get is from Scions. Or Catachan rock-hard abs.

Scion Command Squad and IG CCS are basically the same except CCS has more options and can issue more orders. If you run Scions AS Scions, just paint em a different color.
>>
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More raider crew work. Sail next, considering a skull
>>
How does etched brass work?

Do I just cut it, glue it, and paint it like normal?
>>
>>51552141
yeah they're just 3-d decals. They can be fiddly as hell though prep your tweezers and swear words
>>
>>51551257
>>51551276
>>51551293

Even though they're marginally better, they're still a shitty conversion, it does neither look good nor it makes sense fluffwise, but whatever, keep poorfagging it and sperging out whenever somebody gives your work actual criticism, I guess.
>>
>>51552164

Oh fun. I might actually get this then.
>>
Anybody got any comprehensive guides for recasting? No way am I buying knights in the volume go wants me to.
>>
>>51552280
I assume you mean making your own recasts. Personally if I were to need a ton of large figures like knights, then I would just buy the Chinese ones for $40 a piece.
>>
Is cyber-horse anon still around? I really wanna see how that turns out and I hope he casts his finished conversion or at least posts the parts he used.
>>
>>51552340

I'm here, yes.

I'm currently on the hunt for some guitar wire or similar so I can make the neck look more horrifying. Also debating putting some admech spikes on the flashlight head; it'll go well with the AdMech aesthetic but it'll also imply a little "His son, the Horse."

Working days are limited by my own work schedule, so it might be a few before we get a finished piece. Also I have no idea how to cast, so unless I learn 3D modelling and can remake a similar design to print for a mold, it's likely going to be unique.

But I'll gladly share the parts list so far:
>body is a Reaper Bones Unicorn miniature (I just wanted a horse body in roughly the right shape and pose to start with
>robot legs are Sicarian legs
>tail is from a Sicarian Backpack and Dataspike
>head panels are engine housing from a Sydonian Dragoon
>flashlight head lens is one of the Tau suit system bits
>neck thingies are from the head crest of an Electropriest
And then the rider is just a Sydonian Dragoon rider with Taser Lance. No changes there.
>>
>>51551583
>>51551216
How do you guys scrap paint off a model?, I'm first time doing it all properly like, Pinning the separate pieces on cork, and wanted to know.
>>
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>>51548896

I was struggling to get the warlord all in one frame until I saw your helpful advice. Pls don't critique my work unless you've spent as much as I have.
>>
>>51552538
>850KB
>.jpg
I'm sorry your photography is fine but I still can't make out the details. We need more megapixels and a better file type.
>>
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>>51552562

I do apologize, I enhanced, rasterized and autocombulated and hopefully this is better for you
>>
>>51552584
perfection
>>
>>51552438
>take xacto knife or file
>use back end of knife or any part of the file (finer side if there's details)
>scrape paint off
>>
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Doing up a wraithknight to look like Eva-02. Thoughts?
>>
So, I want to make some terrain pieces for 10mm using cardboard as the foundation and Sculpey on top for details and what not.

Will I burn down my house if I put into my oven a clay house with a cardboard core at 275°F for ~15 minutes?

I know... don't put paper/paper product into your oven, but... it's encased in clay?

My brain is telling me "don't do it", but my heart is telling me "don't be a pussy".
>>
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>>51552715
I don't want to be a dick but I still want to make a witty comment

It should be fine unless you put something with a lower burn temp in
>>
>>51552141
A sharp blade is key to getting them off the "frame" and cleaning up where necessary, but yeah pretty much normal, white glue can work for em since adjustment might be needed for fiddly stuff and superglue dries fast. Oh and just so you're not surprised, the whole sheet is roughly the footprint of a rhino to give you an idea of how small some of that stuff is.
>>
>>51552741

>footprint of a rhino

Holy fuck. Guess that explains the "huge" lightning.
>>
>>51552715
Fahrenheit 451.
>>
>>51552768
Ah shit I was beat to it.
>>
>>51552737
>>51552768

What's sad is that book is sitting right in front of me.

Thanks.
>>
>>51551257
>>51551276
>>51551293
I like them. Thought they were plastic Gol Vorbak at first. May be able to make some neat possessed with those bits.
>>
Ello mates just posting another modular terrain design.

I think I could use more cobble stone to fill up some of the empty space but I don't know. Any input would help
>>
>>51552899
son of a cunt.... forgot the image
>>
>>51552952
Looks cool.

What's it for, thematically?
>>
>>51552989
I'm setting it up for a city setting,Mordheim or warmachine.
It's set up to be the center square or the base of something important. To be honest I just wanted a cool design and went with that
>>
>>51553124
In that case, yeah I'd have some broken cobbles/bricks around.

Maybe make some 3-d piles of rubble too.
>>
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Building my Kairos
>>
>>51553139
cool, I'm going to hold off on the 3-d stuff for now, because I want to have modular 2x2 tiles but I will definitely add more cobblestone
Thanks mate
>>
>>51553201
I take it you're doing 40k then
>>
>>51551257
>>51551276
>>51551293
They look like they're doing some stupid dance because the wulfen kit is fuckawful.
>>
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Please /WIP/,
I need a step by step guide on how to paint SoB Exorcist's orgue pipes
Also, any tip with golden/metallic paints is welcome because I suck at it
>>
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For I am Saruman the Wise, Saruman Ring-maker, Saruman of Many Colours!

Going to be doing a few glazes of off white to white to make the effect far more subtle, but figured I'd show off before I make it significantly less fabulous.
>>
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>>51553248
>>
>>51553232
i do both i just really like the character
>>
>>51553248
Vallejo Metal Colour Gold goes on like a dream.
>>
>>51553248
>>51553263

Drybrush:
>prime black
>base gehennas gold
>shade agrax
>drybrush golden griffon
>drybrush necron compound
>done

Edge highlight:
>prime black
>base retributor armour, two or three thin coats to get it nice and smooth
>shade with agrax
>highlight with liberator
>extreme highlight with silver of some sort
>done

The braces look like they're bronze, so i'd use warplock bronze and then brass scorpion as a highlight.
>>
>>51553139
added a little more to fill out the emptiness of the board
>>
>>51553545
Good stuff. Oh, and when I said 3D rubble I meant individual bits that you could move around at will, not glued down. That way it could be more "modular" and you could stick buildings on it and such.
>>
>>51552657
I can dig it keep updating Anon!
>>
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>>51552657
>>
>>51553642
That's pretty rad! How's everyone get that shiny finish on the glass?
>>
>>51553768

lightly watered down ard coat layers or a steady hand and a white stripe
>>
>>51553768
Thanks mayne, I used a thinned down coat of vallejo's gloss varnish.
>>
>>51553778
Ahh I see thanks Anon. You gonna do more Eva's after that one?
>>
>>51553808
Yep, I bought two more wraithknights for the other two.
>>
>>51552326
Too much faffing about for something that I may find up getting scammed or a shoddy product for desu. I've tried looking into that stuff but it gets a bit frustrating.

At least with recasting I can enjoy a bit of the craft elements along. And when I fuck up it's my own damn fault.
>>
>>51553820
Very nice look forward to seeing them all and good luck with 02!
>>
>>51553853
Thanks dude, I'll make sure I post the others when I finish them
>>
>>51553642
Could use some edge highlights.
>>
>>51553977
Yea, its kinda hard to see in the pic, but I havent done much shading at all on it
>>
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first pass at an ice base

blue with lighter blue and whites stippled on the base, then a layer of clear crackle with a drybrush of white

some of the cracks are filled with guilliman blue, but im not sure how i feel about that

ill try to get some snow flock in here as well after i nail this part
>>
>>51554100
Looks pretty nice, but maybe you could sand down the top surface? Right now there's lots of curves where the cracks are, and it looks a little "pillowy" - real ice tends to spontaneously fracture along flat surfaces like I assume you're trying to emulate.
>>
>One spot on a shoulder keeps showing primer
>Keep putting thin layers on
>Keeps showing
>just made the rest of the shoulder thick
God damn it.
>>
>>51554100
>>51554141
This, the inward-pointing-ness is too strange. The bigger cracks are good, though.
>>
>>51554149
Are you waiting for it to dry?
>>
>>51554141
ill try that on this other base, see how it ends up lookin!

>>51554155
seems to be how this craft store crackle medium works; it gave me the same pattern on another test base

ill keep dickin with it :D
>>
>>51554167
I think I need glasses, it looked dry to me... How long do Citadel paints usually take to dry?
>>
>>51554149
Put a thin layer down, let it dry, and before the primer shows up again seal it with Lahmian Medium or another matte medium. Layer from there. It's how I fix spots on my Skitarii robes
>>
>>51554177
Depends. Thinner the layer, longer the dry time. Just be careful, let it sit for a minute or two longer than you think you need while you work on some other part of the model/batch.
>>
>>51554177
5 minutes to an hour or so.
>>
>>51554202
>>51554212
>>51554201
I'm such an impatient man, I should give each layer of Steel Legion Drab (thinned with a drop of Vallejo Thinner Medium) more time to dry... fuck me.
>>
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>>51554174
used an old 32mm i tested the medium on a while ago and sanded it down with low grit then high grit sandpaper

put a thin coat of 'ardcoat and eh, i like the finish but i want to try and eliminate the "crack towards center" pattern

not sure how, might have to try a different approach/product
>>
>>51553846
Man, if by knights you mean Imperial Knights, you are setting yourself up for a good bit of frustration. Recasting simple, compact minis like Johnny is already an endeavour, but a large, complex, multi part kit? Fucking hell.
>>
>>51552280
>No way am I buying knights in the volume go wants me to.
>>51553846
Have you considered not buying Knights?

Dunno maybe, I'm just a grumpy old git, but I don't see Knights or Baneblades really being useful outside of Apocalypse games. If that is still a thing.

Anyway, didn't GW have a 'boardgame' with two of these infernal things at a discount?
>>
>>51554965
I like the models. I don't play the game anymore.

And they did. It's not available anymore.
>>
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>>51552129
>considering a skull
>>
>>51554100
>>51554415

Looks like an anus.
>>
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>>51555112
You may want to consult a doctor, anon
>>
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Trying to come up with a scheme for my Thousand Sons / Tzeentch marines.

These are the two recipes for blue I have so far, what do you guys think?
>>
>>51552715
One thing that may happen is that any air bubble trapped inside will burst, fucking up your nice model.
Also yes it may burn, but don't worry, food burns in ovens everyday. Shouldn't be a big deal.
>>
>>51555128
Looks like that old picture of the fat guy at a fast food place getting into the mustard.
>>
>>51555174
left is better, but both are pretty bleak.
>>
>>51554100
To be honest those cracks look ugly. What product did you use?
>>
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>>51554415
GW's crack pastes are very nice, they do it in a very random and tiny patterns. The problem is they have no transparent option. I used agrellan earth in some places on these stairs to give them a bit more detail before painting them. See the cracked parts? Pretty awesome product in my opinion.
>>
>>51555315
i was looking for alternative crackle shit (gws is great but expensive)

its called Decoart one step crackle
>>
>>51547214
Well you're using an inferior technique to achieve a result more quickly; the trade off is exactly what youve described. You can build up a solid colour with a brush/airbrush, or you can basecoat then shade multiple very thin layers as your doing-but when it comes to large flat surfaces the latter will take much longer and usually look worse.
>>
>>51555394
Google images show nice results for that product, maybe the base shape has anything to do with the radius cracks? Try it on a different surface and watch how it behaves.

You can also accelerate the drying time using a hairdryer.
>>
>>51555422
Thanks for the reply. Simply basecoated vehicles for the time being it is.
>>
>>51549685
>What do you guys think of my paint scheme?
GW liked it so much they stole it for Gangs of Commoragh. I'd go for stronger recess washes and brighter highlights so it fits the DE theme a bit better.
>>
>>51555451
ill take a shot using it on a different surface and see what happens!
>>
>>51555451
>maybe the base shape has anything to do with the radius cracks?
It depends on how you apply it. Thicker for bigger cracks, thinner for smaller.
>>
>>51555611
Doesn't mean you can control the cracks direction that way.
>>
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Done! Any criticism is welcome.
>>
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Some details.
>>
>>51555683
>>51555687
You've done some astounding work on our primarch, brother. 10/10, would commission.
>>
>>51555683
thus the great journey was over
now do Horus
>>
>>51548255
Does your vallejo primer smell very strongly? Mines stinky and don't know if that's normal.
>>
>>51555683
Really nice dude, the mace turned out great and its a high quality piece. Looking forward to more of your work.
>>
>>51555839
mine smell a little bit, but I wouldn't call them stinky by any stretch. So I don't think that's entirely normal.
>>
>>51555687
Something feels off about the eyes but that might just be the photos.
>>
>>51553259
i did that by using a mother of pearl effect type paint. it gives it a shimmer effect all over the robes.
>>
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Almost finished with my Ogroid thaumaturge

Here's the album http://imgur.com/a/fhuPO
>>
>>51552715
in high school visual design class we made clay teapots once, and i made a badass dragon teapot with a long neck and head for the spout, and we were allowed to use toothpicks as supports before firing it, and the head of my dragon refused to stay up.
so I lined the neck with like, ten toothpicks as internal supports and the teacher said when they were fired in the kiln, the neck of my teapot exploded and shot the dragon head through something like three other teapots and i failed the class.
>>
>>51555729
That faggot Girlyman can't get all the glory.

>>51555828
Angron is next.

>>51555910
You guys helped me a lot designing and choosing the mace colors.

>>51555936
I think the right eye inner white point is a bit out of place, but you can't really apreciate it unless in a close up.
>>
>>51556073
The thought of your dragon cup being so badass it obliterated its competition gave me a good, long kek. Thanks, mate.
>>
>>51549708
Highlights are looking a bit too thick. Especially on his right knee
>>
>>51544034
Looks like ozzy ozborne.
>>
some more work on big scuttlez
>>
>>51556460
brass scorpions are cute

The freehand's spot on, keep it up.
>>
>>51555683
>>51555687

I don't dig the head but that's just my own personnal taste, I hate faces in general.

It was great to see you paint this from start to finish, hope you'll do more.
>>
What are some good bits options for turning the BaC contemptor into a Mortis with Autocanons?
>>
>>51556460
The freehand is working well to tone down the gradients, which looked cheesier cheesy on their own.
You would benefit from picking out the rivets in silver, if not edge highlighting all of the trim.
>>
>>51556737
The Quad Gun from the Aegis defense line has been used for many an autocannon dread.
>>
>>51556990

That wouldn't work on a Contemptor, though.
>>
>>51556990
And what's stopping you from mounting them with the barrels horizontal just below the shoulder pieces, at which point it's really very similar to the FW arms?
>>
>>51556990
I can't even begin to list the ways in which this paintjob offends me. Christ.
>>
>>51557054
Meant for >>51557027, phoneposter syndrome claims another victim.
>>
>>51557068
>>51557054

The way they are staggered and the fact that its super wide in comparison. It looks great on the box naught, but not so much on a Contemptor
>>
>>51557085
In that case the LR Exterminator twin autocannons are cheap on bits sites, but you'll need to find some bits to build an action for the barrels.

They're spaced almost identically to Razorback heavy bolters, but the ammo feed doesn't look right.
>>
>>51555687
obviously this is a masterwork overall, but i particularly like the head. FW primarch heads are so fucked up looking, and most people make them even worse with paint, but you've made it look both smooth and substantial. most of them end up looking like a crusty leather balloon that's leaking air
>>
>>51557123

Actually, I think I found something better looking for the executioner barrels. Pic related is from the GSC Goliath.
>>
>>51556737
https://puppetswar.eu/product.php?id_product=226
>>
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>>51555683
>>
>>51557218

That... Huh.
>>
>>51557168
I know right? The head sculpt itself is not bad per se, the problem is it is already very angular and if you paint strong shadows it looks like a sick old-man, so you need to make the shadows subtle to give it a younger, stronger look. It is the same principle than for painting female faces, in which you have to shadow them "softly". In this case the fact that I could use a "corrupted" flesh color instead of normal flesh helped a lot.
>>
>>51555683
I can see absolutely nothing wrong. Top notch job.
>>
>>51555683
Really love the work you've done here. Clean and crisp brushwork, good colorchoices and the OSL and NMM came out very well too.

If you were asking me to nitpick, the only thing I could really point to would be the plinth.
For all the crispness of the highlights on the figure the plinth's lightning looks very soft.
Obviously that's a way to focus the eye on the mini as well, but once the eye starts to wander it's somewhat noticeable.
It feels a bit like the plinth is 'out of focus' if you get what I mean.
If it's a stylistic choice fair enough, I can't shake the feeling that there is a visual disconnect though.
Might be because the highlights on the figure go all the way up to white, while the brightest shade on the base is a medium grey. I'm not saying a rough stone and a polished metal should be at the same level, just needs to be a little closer together i think. Pure white highlights imply a very strong source of light.The skulls on the plinth and the rockwork have a very dim light mood.


All in all great job!
>>
>placed order with Forgeworld last Sunday
>received confirmation email same day
>still no word if delivery is shipped yet

is it always like this?
>>
New thread:
>>51557706
>>
>>51557669
Yeah, their shipping is really shitty, which is suprising considering how expensive it is.

I ordered something from their Warhammer World store last Saturday and I only got an email confirming my order this Thursday. Given that it was meant to be delivered to the store the same day that I ordered it, not best pleased.
>>
>>51557669
>placed order with Forgeworld last Sunday
>received confirmation email same day
That means they got your order and are working on it. I mean it was sunday. Probably an automated response.
>still no word if delivery is shipped yet
The it probably isn't.
Maybe they have to cast the stuff you want. I don't think FW has a warehouse filled with loads of stuff. They probably only do that for regular items like Space Marine stuff.
>>
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Just got Averland Sunset primer for my Imperial Fists. After a couple minutes of shaking I started using it, but it's coming out really watery and not sticking to the model. Is there something wrong with my can, or am I doing something wrong?
>>
>>51544503
Definitely go for a large human head, maybe Ogryn/Ogor or something, that would look great and adequately creepy.
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