WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Sisters of Battle use 25mm bases, correct? I just got my not!Veridyan based but I'm not sure if I used the right size. Pictures soon.

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R8 muh scourge.
Also, tips for how to paint pale skin.
I didn't quite manage to get a result I wanted, which is a smooth and even coat of pale white skin.

>>51463014
yes, though veridyan is on a 30mm

>>51463029
>Also, tips for how to paint pale skin.
>I didn't quite manage to get a result I wanted, which is a smooth and even coat of pale white skin.

Same as always, thin properly, apply as many coats as necessary.

>>51463035
Does base size actually matter for playing 40K?

>>51463094
Base contact is still used for many rules, so yes.

>>51463094
Somewhat. I doubt anyone will truly throw a fit if you swap 25mm and 30mm around on character models, but it's relevant.

>>51463094
For determining how many minis are in an assault, yes. Bigger base means more assholes can slap your dude.

Can I get some advice on how to magnetize the ball-joints of the Ghostkeel so I have complete range of movement? I'd like to make it so that It's a fully-posable action figure of sorts. A magnet only cover that small area, so maybe soft magnetic strips on the inside of the joints?

>>51463145
>magnets
>not making your mecha figure even more weeaboo
>shamefur dispray
>seppuku is expected
http://hlj.com/search/go?w=joint

>>51463029
>>51463088

Maybe black or a dark silver for the main body of the gun.

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Finished up a few Infinity minis

>>51463296
Oh shit you mean converting the thing with actual model kit joints? Hm. I actually do have a few faulty gundam wing figures but I don't want to scavange them regardless.

I'm not keen on buying more shit though, any other way? I'll keep this as a last resort. Magnets of sorts preferred as I'd want to be able to take it apart as well.

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>>51463374

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>>51463387
Those were done some time last week. Finished this qt and a Su jian last night

>>51463374
>>51463387
These look great. Real shame there's literally not a single Infinity player in my area and I'm not even sure if my LGS is stocking it. Every time I see a model from the game it's great.

Those grills are qt3.14s

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>>51463416

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Right, got her mostly together at this point. I still need to shave some mold lines, smooth out some remaining sprue nubs, and green stuff the bolt pistol up a little, but she's getting closer and closer.

What'dyall think?

RIP her hat.
I was dremelling her head off and it flew out of my hands, never to be seen again. I had plans for that hat too. Hopefully I find it someday.

>>51463387
>>51463374
Can't say I'm super fond of your bases, they're like the absolute bare bones. At least get some discarded newspapers or miscellaneous trash on there.

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>>51463427
Finally my actual WIP

>>51463431
10/10 would let her step on me in the name of the God-Emperor.

>>51463431
You're going to have problems when painting the cape under her right arm.

I like it, but fuck you for posting the headswap last thread.

>>51463431
>no crossbow
Ech.

Otherwise looks great.

Does anyone have any tips or video suggestions for painting jade?

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I can't paint for shit plus I lack focus so I have to paint a few things at once and swap as and when I lose interest.

Been painting these today, all still in progress be it minor details, washes, dry brushing or cleaning up slippage and stuff

>>51462597
>>51462771
I'll bring it up at the next Greenskins Against Animal Cruelty meeting.

>>51463482
>>51463463
Good to know her hat didn't die in vain. Thanks anons.

>>51463525
>>no crossbow
If she wasn't supposed to be a counts-as Canoness Veridyan, the crossbolter would have probably stayed on.

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Skin anon here

Is there any way to actually fill gaps once already painted? I realise its not ideal, but what would be the best method should I decide to give it a try?

>>51463620
I don't know, but that looks amazing.

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>>51463450
That's a fair citicism. I intentionally leave most of my bases plain and simple. I dunno; I just prefer bases that aren't real busy.

This and my Nomad bases are basically the furtherest I take it.

>>51463620
Greenstuff and paint over it?

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I know some of the newer GW sprays are both primers/undercoats and basecoats all-in-one, but do I need to prime if I use pic related? It's one of the older sprays.

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How's it looking? Yay? Nay? Suggestions for a good mud look?

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>>51463818

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>>51463818
I know you must've been pretty sick of cutting and arranging lolly sticks but the floor being so sparse kinda ruins the overall trench aesthetic imo.

Looks more like a trip hazard than something to walk on to avoid the tide of shit, piss and rats that inevitably builds up in a trench

As for mud, wall / wood filler works wonders, or so I've read. I believe a Golden Daemon winning DkoK diorama used it (a weapons team pulling a wheeled heavy bolter through it) and was mentioned in one of the FW masterclass books, and the following article on Librarium online.

http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/hobby-forums/113644-mud-bases.html

Everything else (including previous pics from previous threads, craters, trench lines, etc) looks fantastic, and I am personally jealous as my gaming circle initially painstaking planned to make our own trench board but few were willing to cough up the cash when the price of the foamboard was discovered.

>>51463387
i like the bases. the bases dont have to be super overdone, if they complement the model then theyre great. nice shading on the pants too

>>51463620
If you were to do heavier/sharper shading it wouldn't stand out as much, but you kinda fucked up by not doing it before painting to be honest.

>>51463620
>Is there any way to actually fill gaps once already painted?
If it were smaller I would suggest using matte varnish to fill the gap with paint. This works well when it's only a tiny gap that you missed before priming it, but... let's face it, that one on his shoulder is yuge.

You can try there, but I wouldn't get upset about if it doesn't work. These are just grunts. Next time you will know to gapfill before priming.

>>51463702
hey buddy, do you reckon you could take some pics of your gaming table, with that mat and terrain? i'm looking at getting some and i'd like to see some stuff that isnt just promo shots

>>51463416
I'm surprised by how her skirt actually does look like a leather pencil skirt with that texture and shininess.

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Not so much as WIP anymore but these are some miniatures I painted for a dnd campaign that just reached its conclusion.

Not my best work but my friends were normies and found them impressive.

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>>51464293
Reverse side

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Finished Ghurk, working on Otto and Ethrac.

Are my final highlights on these robe edges too light?

>>51463702
I would also like to know what mat/terrain that is

>>51462896
I'd recommend ending things on a drybrush, else they look dark and oily. That look can sometimes work on skeletons, but it doesn't really work there.

Also to avoid the crazed eyes look, do the opposite of what you've done. Don't dot in the black, paint the eye black and dot in the whites.

>>51463920
Got it, more planks. I need to press more minions into helping me cut

>>51464343
Looks perfectly fine to me, Anon.

>>51463029
Thin coats as the other anon said, but that can still maybe be saved with a wash. What colour on such white skin though, I have no idea.

>>51464770
Unfortunately the coat is already uneven, so I dunno if it can be saved.

I fucking despise working with white colors. They are shit tier and a pain in the ass to deal with when painting.

>>51464827
Try a basecoat of Rakarth Flesh, a wash cut with Lahmian Medium, and highlight with Pale Wych Flesh.

I've tried working with pale skin and it sucks. I feel your pain anon. Fuck white paint

>Bright yellow sucks too

>>51464262
>>51464357
Sorry, that was a shot from long ago at my flgs. I dont have any shots of the table itself. The mat is from Frontline Gaming.

>>51464287
Oh I think the dullcote was still drying at the time I took those pics. It's not very glossy in person.

>>51464343
For what it's worth anon,
I think it looks amazing

>>51463374
>>51463387
How do you do that pavement look?

Also if anyone knows how to do cobblestones I'd love to know that too.

>>51464983
You should go back over the skirt with some satin gloss or something then. I like the look in that pic.

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Need a recommendation for a torso for a khornestruction cultist warpsmith.

I was thinking the metal plague champ from the plague marine box,
But it's too heavy to wiggle with.

Any plastic recommendations? I also have a robot arm for one side. I plan on putting the cultist backpack with the wrenches hanging off of it.

>>51463740
To be safe, just prime before using that Khorne Red spray. If you use black primer, the areas that you might've missed with Khorne Red (small gap between backpack and torso, underside of miniature etc) have the added bonus of looking like shadows.

>>51465173

Have you thought about a Khorne Bloodbound torso? A few bits wouldn't be a stretch to take it from AoS to 40K.

>Plus they are in a starter kit so it should be easy to get one off eBay

Cool conversion btw.

>>51465237
>If you use black primer, the areas that you might've missed with Khorne Red (small gap between backpack and torso, underside of miniature etc) have the added bonus of looking like shadows.
That's actually what I normally do; it works pretty well. I'm just not sure I'll have enough daylight left to primer her and her Immolators. Oh well, not like I'm in a rush here.

>>51465259
Wasn't sure if I should go frumpy or tech priestly and hadn't considered full beefcake.

I'll look into my AoS overflow

>>51463387
>>51463416
Anon, I need to know your process of painting these faces. Please

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>>51465134
I base coated in the darker color, dry brushed 3-4 corners of the base edge with my highlight colors, and glazed in between using a 50:50 mix. In this case, Vallejo Model Color Burnt Umber and Game Color Bone White. Then redefine the lines, make little scratches and 'splotches', and finally a bit of edge highlights

If you want a road pavement, I highly recommend Vallejo Oxide Paste. Just apply it flat on your base, primer, and paint/drybrush.

>>51465173
This looks mad, reminds me of a guy's Kroot army where he had like Kroot bursting out of the chests of Battlesuits and stuff.

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Here's hoping my little press mold works. I made sure my hands were lathered in the correct holy oils while kneading the Milliput and sung the Litany of Duplication while I pressed the molds together.

I only hope the machine spirit of the Milliput aids me in my endeavor.

>>51465662
Yeah I more meant the actual construction of the base, not the painting.

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ready to paint unless anyone can think of anything else i can add. i might do some little piles of rocks and stuff around the base.

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>>51465725

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Does this look better? Or even more?

>>51465725
>>51465760
I would mix up some sand, pva and water and spread that shit around, especially in the corners for a grittier look and dirt piles. At the moment there's a lot of rubble with no rubble dust.

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>>51465803
It really depends on how you want your trench to look.
If you're going to almost entirely cover the bottom with mud and gunk they're you're probably good with what you got there. If you're going to have a little bit more clean of a trench, you may want to add some more.

>>51465656
I used Vallejo Model Color, Calvary Red, Flat Earth, and Basic Skintone. Just need a tiny amount of that red mixed in with Flat Earth. Basecoat.

Do the eyes. Black first. Then a cold bluish grey (I used VMC, but a Citadel equivalent would be Space Wolves Grey). Finally painted the eyes back in. I always paint them looking to a direction, because for me, it's easier to paint half the eyea in than pinpoint them straight.

Finally, the rest of the face. Using the same skin mixture, I gradually add Basic Skintone as I build my highlights up - covering up and mistakes on the eyes. Also making sure to keep that eye outline.

>>51465679
Oh. I just used a polystrene sheet, scored the lines with a hobby knife, and went over those lines with a small flat file

>>51465811
thanks, do you think i could get away with some dirt texture paint?

>>51466035
That can work sure, but since that is more expensive I'd just use that in the corners and around blocks of rubble. The sand mix is just much cheaper, allowing you to be more liberal with it and clump it up more in corners.

>>51465968
>Skin
Forgot to mention that I used a very tiny watered down amount of Sepia Ink to refine the mouth.

And this isnt necessary, but sometimes I apply a VERY watered down Cavalry Red on the tip of the nose just to give a bit more tone to it

>>51464293
>my friends were normies and found them impressive
Kek, yeah I have a mate who anything he paints is praised by all his non-painting friends (I'd hesitate to call them normies as they're into all RPGs and stuff, but yeah they don't know too much about painting). He did one model with some freehand symbol on it, and in my mind I was screaming because it looks like he never went back and cleaned up the edges of the symbol with the darker background colour, but I'm like "yeah looks great man" since everyone else at the table was just praising it.

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>>51466075
hows this? more dirty?

>>51465669
You need Sisters listening to their own bolt magazines. Name them Jenny.

>>51466278
Yeah a bit more, I was more thinking about the blocks of rubble up top but yeah that helps for sure.

>>51466394
>>51466419
>>51466457
Some of the paint on the lil bugger looks awfully chalky to me, anon. Other than the he looks pretty decent to me.

>>51466312
Jenny and Johnny. A match made in heaven.

>>51466477

You should do a little blending on the wings to soften the transitions between colors, right now they just look like stripes.

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Continued working on my Neophytes. Got this faces and masks, only need to finish all of their arms.

The one on the far left is lacking a left arm only because I ended up painting the wrong one by mistake. Fucking hate keeping track of which arm goes with which when it comes to IG stuff.

>>51467174
Bane?

>>51462982
Those sexy as fuck hands though.

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Finished
I wish the riders could snap in better so I could use them during play

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Time for some jetbikes

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Group photo
Hard to photograph large flat red surfaces I find.

Quick, /tg/ I need lots of miniatures paint

What brand is the bestest?

Does anyone know where I can get some bullet belts for my dudes? I want to drape my Catachans with them but I don't know where to look. Alternatively a good guide on sculpting them wouldn't be bad.

>>51467532
Vallejo. They sell some good bundles too, including army ones which cover everything from Confederates to Chaos Daemons. I also feel like Minitare is underrated.

>>51467620
Anvil sells all kinds of tacticool bits.

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>>51467677
These should be perfect. They are resin so I can bend them too. Thanks anon.

>>51467270
I wish. Then the only way he could die is if someone managed to pull his mask off somehow. And I hear that is extremely painful... for them.

>>51467636
Minitaire are pretty great. Good value and some colours I use a lot like Angelic Blood Red.

>>51467620
Zinge industries does flexible ammot belts of various sizes.
They are cast in a flexible plastic and there's a wire inside so they hold their shape.

Catachans already come with belts slung over their bodies, you could just glue ammo from the ork or SM scout kit onto them to get a similar effect.

>>51467532
each brand has some good paints

don't be a fool and restrict yourself to one brand

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>>51467532
if you want a good paint cheap, Humbrol enamel house paint. you save heaps if you get the 50 litre tin instead of the 20. it'll last you for a fair while. just remember to wear lots of thin coats while painting.

>>51467920
>just remember to wear lots of thin coats while painting
Won't that get hot?

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15 tacticals, 10 assault marines, 5 devastators and a couple of assorted sergeants/specials and I'm FINALLY almost done with the yellow.
Now I just have to do the detailing, edge highlighting and basing... *cries*

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Help WIP, you are my only hope.

I am pretty heavily committed to raven guard, I enjoy the fluff and the models, and have recently started getting into 30k Legions, only to discover I am shit at doing a convincing black armor.

I have tried to follow some of duncan's tutorials on it for deathwatch, but my hands shake from old medical issues so getting a thin edge is very hard. Another friend suggested using a nuln glass wash, which kind of works but is still too plain, and far too shiny for the muted black that would fit Raven Guard

are there any other ways or suggestions for doing a convincing black? I'm willing to try pretty much anything at this point, and I have a full rack of tactical marines I bought for trying experiments on.

>>51467965
Testors Model Masters Lusterless spray can get rid of most of the gloss

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/wip/, I painted my first model today.

I'm not sure if I like it.

>>51464293
Is that a "Tuvok" elf, or a drow?

>>51467952
That yellow is flat as fuck did, highlight and shade it.

>>51468019
Your highlighting red with white? Mix like 5-10% white into your red (yellows better than white) and highlight with that instead. Other wise an excellent paint job for a first timer. Keep up the good work.

>>51468050
correction: *basecoat* yellow is done.
still gotta do a wash and a highlight

>>51468050
I used Evil Sunz Scarlet. The white is my attempt at freehand text. Thank you, anon.

>>51468019
Not too shabby at all for a first time, not too shabby at all. The paint ain't too thick, the wash doesn't look too bad, and the barrel is drilled. I can't see too many highlights, but the photo quality doesn't really allow for that anyway.

Only real kinda meh spots are the eyes and the basing; less is really more when it comes to those terrain paints. You should also do a color around the rim of the base to clean it up. As for the eyes, that is just practice. You have to have a LOT of brush 'n paint control to get them looking real neat.

Overall, great job for a first mini anon.
Word Bearers or Flesh Tearers? Backpack seems more Word Bearers but I want to be sure here.

What consistency should paints be? Obviously water is too thin, but straight out of the pot is too thick. Help a retard out

>>51468096
Don't try free handing at this point, it won't end well and will just disappoint you. Learn to walk before you can run.

>>51468024
(poster here) its a shitty picture desu. It doesnt look like an elf irl at all. It's just supposed to be a dark skinned human

>>51467965
Edge highlighting isn't a matter of having "shaky hands" or not. It's a matter of having the right amount of paint on the brush and using the brush correctly.

>>51463740

None of the GW sprays are primers, not even Corax White and Abaddon Black. If it says they're an "undercoat" that's because you're using some foreign region's site instead of the UK/NA.

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>>51468098
Yeah, I screwed up on the eyes and base. It's a lot harder than it seems to try and reach in there with ceramite white. On the base, I need to wait for the texture paint to fully dry then I can use Agrax Earthshade and drybrush Terminatus stone on it. I realized I used way too much though. Gonna color the rim of the base Steel Legion Drab.

Oh, and I tried to do the HH WB vet scheme, but with blue eyes so this question wouldn't be asked. I'm gonna not do the black helms and try green eyes with my next model.

>>51468116
Yeah, I realized that when I tried to follow Duncan's tutorials on the stuff, then noticed how bleh mine looked. Gonna ditch my attempt at chaos runes, and maybe keep trying the text.

>>51468130
have any tutorial links with more detail then? duncan's are ok but seem to imply some kind of technique that I haven't been able to grasp, so if you have anything better I'm willing to give it a try again with better information.

>>51468106
When you don't see brush strokes when brushing them along a pallet.

>>51468218
Text is super advanced dude. Focus on shading, highlighting and getting even coats of paint within the areas.

>>51468106
milk
use milk, the saying goes 'thin consistently with milk'

>>51468308
Yeah, good point.

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Reposting an idea I had

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Converting a hellbrute to have an autocannon and redoing the power fist. What detail should I add to the fist? It's a Nightlords one.

>>51465968
>Flat Earth
Sorry I meant Cork Brown

>>51468106
Milky

>>51468357
Greyfax, out of production Archon, Valkia, Fantasy Khorne Lord, Be'lakor, Skullcrusher?

It's a neat concept but I'd restrict your bits to "plastic stuff you don't need to purchase a character clampack for" or it's going to be a very expensive conversion.

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>>51463387

>>51468357

Looks fucking stupid just use Valkia with a head swap.

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BATTLE SLUTS SQUAD, ASSEMBLE! Hopefully I'll be able to knock out Celly tonight too.


The Milliput recasts of the Sabbat-pattern helmet seem to be hardening this time, Omnissiah be praised!

>>51468396
Make it so that the fingers have longer talons/blades on them.

>>51465173
sm torso with bare arms? maybe the chaos tank crew one with the cables drooping for the back half that you could modify. Metal havoc champ with the bare head and eye augments is the one I plan on using, might be along the lines of what you're looking for and it seems a bit smaller than plastic torsos so it could fit nicely with "human" legs. Like other anons said, AoS khorne guys might be viable options to make a grease monkey type of guy, maybe throw a goggle head on top kinda thing.

>>51468396
If you could get a large skull bit, that could cover the area nicely. I'm thinking either tyranid or the one that comes with the AoS megaboss but that one's probably hard to get. Maybe flayed stretched skin covering the area?

>>51463431
where's the head from?

Non-snapfit Cultists: What do you use that's not Cadians or Forge World's Renegades?

>>51469601
Immolator kit. It's one of the heads for the turret gunner.

>>51469602
Empire Flagellants

What brand of primer is the best?

>>51469635
Oh, cool.

>>51469602
push fit cultists, a hacksaw, and some green stuff

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I painted this today but I'm still new to all this so I have no idea how to do a good wash. I wanted to make some of the flat areas look acid-etched but I just ended up brightening up the whole face and barely getting any of the detail I wanted.

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>>51469739
It came out a little better on this side, but I like the way the other side looks more.

Any suggestion on how to do a better wash? I'm using alcohol to dilute the paint and am slowly brushing it over the surface so it has time to trickle down; invariably, when I get a good contrast then the area I don't want to highlight has paint on it, and when I try to lightly wipe it away it all smears/comes off.

>>51469739
Should have used a darker green. That being said, it looks REALLY good, like, if you were to apply more to the areas closest to the necron green band to imply lighting a little more, THEN wash with Nuln oil, or an extremely watered down black to get it closer to black oblisk your probably wanting, i think it would be just dandy!

>>51469761
Seeing the other side now, i really like that effect. Whats the original material? Is it just foam or is that wood?
>>51469767
Based commas, please stop plaguing my run on sentences.

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>>51469767
Darker green, really? I thought that the Necron's thing was very vivid, acidic-looking green colors. I don't have nuln oil, but it looks like a very dark brown? I think I should be able to mix it of so. I would also have thought that a black wash after the green would mute it, but I'll try it and see what happens.

Thanks for the suggestion, if I don't make another of these I think I'll just strip this and repaint.

>>51469786
Thanks. It's made from cast polyurethane - I tried making it hollow but it didn't work out too well, so I just made it solid. Feels pretty nice in the hands as well.

>>51469602
beastmen + victoria guns and a few guard hands, necromunda chaos cultists, necromunda goliath gangers, empire flagellants + fw cultist arms

Would someone be able to tell me Z's newest email, I've got the old one and already messaged it for an order but just incase I don't hear back from it as it is quite old now

What can I use to take off primer that won't eat plastic minis? I used Army Painter white spray primer and it turned out kind...fuzzy? Grainy? I never had a problem with AP primer before, but quick research shows that I'm not the first one with this issue, especially with white.

I wouldn't care if it was little shit, but it's on my Valkyrie so it's kind of obvious. Simple Green will take the paint off but doesn't seem to even touch the primer.

I have a bunch of ink from I can't remember when

What exactly IS store-bought wash? Really thinned paint? Thinned ink? Can I get away with just using my existing ink?

>>51469824
Not that guy, but that kind of bright colour works when it is a light source illuminating the rest of your miniature. With a some osl or even just green edge highlights on the black you could make it work.

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Recasted helmets came out decent. One was salvageable, the other I'm going to have to redo. Should be pretty easy to do though.

I just hope the weather is clear tomorrow. I really want to get all this primed

Post your servitors, loyal techmarines and inquisitors. Admech need not apply.

>>51470039
The washes that get sold now are ink + matte medium + flow aid, basically.

>>51470039

It's thin matte ink.

>>51470015
using primer at high humidity causes it to clump midair. i had the same problem the first time I used it. gave them two soaks in the commonwealth equivalent of simple green, Dettol. soaked em for a couple days, took em out and scrubbed em in metho, put em back in, eventually got them back to plastic. it's a bitch to take off primer though, takes ages.

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WIP of my Hazardous Environment Troop Sergeant, got these guys for Christmas.

Also, I don't think i'm gonna use this free shipping voucher in time, so here it is 98430be. It it expires in two days, hopefully someone uses it.

>>51470015
I'll just repost a youtube comment on this subject:

Simple Green and Super Clean have worked poorly for me even on acrylics. What actually works well almost every time is non-acetone nail polish remover. You can strip a model with this stuff in 30 seconds with a toothbrush and the whole reason it exists is to strip paint from womens' nails. There are some caveats though. I have only used it on metal and GW plastics, I probably wouldn't use it on anything weaker. And if you leave it on plastics too long it will start to melt, you can't submerge the models. Just scrub with a brush for a minute or so and rinse it off in the sink, and it won't cause any problems or weaken the material. I'm sure a lot of people don't like the idea of this because it sounds risky, but I have stripped entire armies with this method having zero problems besides the very first time when I stupidly submerged a model for a couple minutes. And of course this should be done outside, with gloves and glasses on, because the brush will sling paint droplets everywhere and I'm sure that stuff can't be good to breathe in for prolonged periods. Non-acetone nail polish remover is ethyl acetate based, actual acetone will of course melt plastic quickly. Another few pitfalls are that if the paint is thick, it can create a sticky paint sludge on the model. This might make some people think the model has melted, but that's not the case. What you need to do when that happens is make sure that you have lots of fresh nail polish remover on the toothbrush. The sludge seems to be a result of the nail polish remover becoming saturated with paint, so you have to dip your brush in the bottle regularly to keep it from gunking up. You may need to let the model dry (I use a heat lamp) before you try again, this makes the sludge easier to remove than when it's wet.

Addendum: I use Sunflower brand. Tried using another and it didn't work, but that was methyl (not ethyl) acetate.

>>51470532
looks clean, but I dont like that his hands are the same colour of his flak armour. i think you could convey them being gloves with something a little more natural looking

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>>51470532
>WIP of my Hazardous Environment Troop Sergeant, got these guys for Christmas.
Looks nice.
With a set of different legs these would work well as Stormtroopers too.

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>>51466394
>>51466419
>>51466457
>>51466477
Looks like rainbow dash you fucking gayboi

>>51463620
Paint tattoos that covers/goes along the gaps, makes them less jarring. Dark tattoos though.

>>51464827

For pale skin:

Rakarth flesh
Reikland flesh shade all over
Then tidy up with rakarth flesh basing all the raised areas, leave recesses.
Then a fine highlight of the details with palid wych flesh.

>>51468019
I'm digging the New Delhi basing.

>>51463620
I imagine using the white modelling putty Vallejo makes (or Mr. Hobby) should provide you with a surface your paint will go over just fine.
It would be slow work though as you'd need to apply it neatly and without spilling too much as you can't exactly sand it down afterwards.

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Rate my feline fur

Gonna start layering skin after work tomorrow

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>>51467952
I just tried to paint yellow over the runes on this test marine for a Brotherhood of Darkness warband and now I'm ready to mcfucking kill myself. Needless to say the mini was ruined and is now soaking in a bucket of super clean.

Damn, I really like the idea of this warband but my painting abilities are not up to scratch, or I probably need to buy different paints but fuck that I've spent way too much money on this hobby already, I have bought hundreds of dollars in paint. It would have taken forever to do a whole army like this anyway, I have several rhinos too. This is the fourth time I have switched warbands because it never comes out looking right or I sour on the scheme eventually. I just don't know anymore.

Kinda want to do The Cleaved but I know I will almost instantly regret painting them. I guess I'm looking for a warband with a cool gimmick scheme that isn't just solid colors.

>>51470808
Man, the older Chaos SM kits look absolute ass compared to the new releases like TS.

>>51470820
meh I like them, the nu shit is reaching absurd levels of bling that I don't necessarily care for. the chosen and raptor models are bordering on laughable.

maybe the helmet on that model looks weird because I cut his horns off and he still has the nubs, but I drilled multiple holes in those so they look like weird "speaker"like earpieces.

>>51470808
First of all it sounds like you had a kneejerk reaction.
This hobby is about patience and learning the skills to realize you vision.
If you throw up your arms and give up at the first sign of challenges you'll never get anywhere.

>Damn, I really like the idea of this warband but my painting abilities are not up to scratch,
Did you take a picture before throwing it away? 90% of the time feeback is the way to go when trying to figure out how to improve your work.
>or I probably need to buy different paints but fuck that I've spent way too much money on this hobby already, I have bought hundreds of dollars in paint.
You don't need new paint, you need the patience to learn using what you got.
>It would have taken forever to do a whole army like this anyway, I have several rhinos too.
With practice comes speed.
>This is the fourth time I have switched warbands because it never comes out looking right or I sour on the scheme eventually. I just don't know anymore.
As I said you'll never get anywhere either if you just give up all the time.

There are loads of ways to approach this, making it easier or saving time.
For example you could save the runes for your champions.
Or you could use decals to speed up your process. You could use brass etch runes or space wolves scriptors with that kind of armor.

In any case you gotta figure out first what you want to do. Then figure out a way to overcome your problem. And as I said, you don't have to figure it out alone.

>>51470868
>With practice comes speed.

I have been doing this for 4 years and am still as slow as the day I started, dunno why but I have read every speed painting trick in the book and still paint grandma speeds. Granted I did have my army mostly done once but . . . it was kinda bad. And the model was basically unsalvageable, I would have had to do so much fixing that it's better to just strip and try again anyway.

>For example you could save the runes for your champions. Or you could use decals to speed up your process. You could use brass etch runes or space wolves scriptors with that kind of armor.

I wanted it on the whole army, I was imagining a horde of dudes with cool over the top busy as fuck runes everywhere and vehicles that look like Lorgar ran out of papyrus and just started using rhinos. As for the brass stuff, that could get expensive. I appreciate the feedback but I man I can just imagine taking an entire year to paint this army and fucking up constantly and it fills me with dread. I'll sleep on it.

>>51470909
>and fucking up constantly
That's what I mean man.
You already had a decent mini here >>51470808
So you took it into a direction you didn't like. Bid deal. That is what testers are for. It's the whole point.

Now you know what not to do.
And as for time - you could first paint the basic marine scheme, black armor red trims, and then take your time to add the runes to each model.
Sit down and do one marine each evening. After ten days you'll have a fully scribbled up squad.

I get that it can be frustrating, but don't give up so easily. Imagine how satisfying it would be to look at an entire army's worth of these guys instead.

>>51470909

Some people are just slow. I am too. But even us slowpokes have sped up significantly compared to the first time we tried painting a certain technique. Even if your painting rate is unacceptably slow, you're still banging out details and basecoats faster and neater than you used to be.

Some people simply have an upper limit of their speed. I know I could go faster but I'm a perfectionist and when I go slow I make very few mistakes so I'd rather keep it that way than go fast and spend a lot of time doing touchups.

>>51470840
>>51470820

As someone who's currently painting Rubrics, I gotta be honest. The poses, the detail and everything are amazing, but painting& highlighting all the gold bling is giving me handcancer.

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Do any of you happen to know good sellers/manufacturers for metal miniatures in Europe (or that ship worldwide without charging insane amounts of money)? I'm looking for a good figure for my D&D fighter but I can't find anything that actually fits the character.

I recently got some stuff from Spellcrow but they don't seem to have any good male fighter figures. I really like the female one I got though.

Just picked up a Start Collecting Necrons box to gift my brother the Overlord from it (store had no normal Overlords or Lords left and he doesn't play but loves Necron design).

Gonna let him pose it the way he wants, then painting it up for him. Are there many options for customization in that kit to let him fiddle around a bit and get a variety of poses and are Necrons as easy to paint as I think they will be? (Base Leadbelcher, wash Nuln Oil, go over it again with Leadbelcher, drybrush with Necron Compound or something along the lines of Runefang Steel, add the gold and green details)

>>51471589
You can try Reaper although I don't think that their newer minis are metal anymore.

>>51471799
>are Necrons that easy
Yes.

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finished this guy finally

Any c&c is apreciated

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Hey. Quick question. I'm getting War of the Ring in a few days and I wanted to mark the minis with oil-based markers.

Is this a good idea if I want to (someday) properly pain them?

>>51471933
Nice transitions on the skin anon, specilly on the neck. If i have to cherrypick i would say that the wood in the staf is a little rough, and the runes could use a thin yellow glaze to smooth the transition.

>>51467382
>>51467404
>>51467486
Oh fuck Dealder anon you followed my suggestion, Well it looks better than the old skull, I hope you like it.

>>51471589
As the other guy said, you can buy reaper minis in europe, they they are an american company.

Check out Hasslefree, Red Box Games (tre manor's line also available from the HF page), Northstar, Foundry, Warlord, Gripping Beast and Perry. Otherworld sell a range of iconic/generic D&D archetypes and creatures.
A few of those are historical manufacrtuers, but the work just as well in D&D.

Personally I'm a big fan of the Foundry Saxons and the Perry metals.

>>51471589
>>51472338
>Personally I'm a big fan of the Foundry Saxons
Derp, I meant the Normans.
Sorry about that.

>>51470808
Cleaved seem like they would be just as much if not more work than Brotherhood. As another anon said, maybe save runes for the champions and HQs but I was thinking maybe just save doing it on the whole body for them and give everyone else a touch here and there on individual armor panels. I'd also say try out starting them with orange instead of red and then add some tiny bits of yellow where lines intersect. From far away, the runes are just going to blend in, especially with the red armor trim, save going all out for the more important members of the army.
For your vehicles, what kinda paint scheme were you thinking for them? Covering them with runes seems like a nightmare and super busy. Looking at a rhino, I think the vehicles could be cool with the trim color being the main one and the recessed panels on the sides and front could be where you introduce the black patches and fill them with runes to tie them back into the army.
Aside from that wall of text, hey if this experiment into painting your dudes has you completely burnt out on BoD, take a step back and figure out some of those key faction decisions and stick to em. Hell it's chaos, you could have squads from multiple warbands, find what looks fun to paint and stick to it through a squad and see if you like it enough to keep going.
I get the feeling man, it's easy to get disheartened after investing so much and things not turning out as well as you'd like, just gotta take a break sometimes or just power through.

>>51465669
>Milliut
For me Milliput (60%) and Greenstuff (40%) seems to work fantastically, I also use plastic clamps to press the mold while inside the lego frame

>>51468269
I wrote this post the other day. I can't imagine whatever Duncan says is much different but I haven't watched so I don't know.

For any kind of detail with an actual defined edge like IG armour you don't use the tip of the brush. You have the brush perpendicular to the edge and use the middle of the bristles to drag along the edge. The edge does the effort of keeping it straight for you as long as your brush isn't overloaded with paint.

Paint should be thin enough that it effortlessly flows off the brush. Thicker paint means you need more force to get it off the brush which means you're more likely to make a mistake.

Taking your time is incredibly important. You don't have to highlight every single edge of the miniature in one go. You only need a little bit of paint on the brush and after lightly dipping it in the paint you should be wiping some of it off. Less paint = crisper lines. Part of taking your time is also only doing small movements.

So you quickly get into a rhythm of getting paint > wiping and twisting to reform tip > doing a small segment > cleaning brush > repeat.

>>51468184
wut does it mean?
what do i need to undercoat muh minis?

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It would seem someone from around here might be featured on the offical GW social medias.
Congrats yellowguy, love your IF.

>>51472644
>When your senpai notices you
40keks

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Posting a shot of da boyz who are off to help a bunch o' grotz pretending to be orkses, just finished the bigtrakk supakannon.

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Painted up a model for a friend who wasn't sure if he wanted to start collecting Sigmarines.

>>51473011
Actually a pretty spiffy use of the new metalics, well done anon

>>51473011

Thats gonna be pretty cool once its finished, nice job anon.

>>51467965
Drybrushing would be your best alternative to edge highlights.

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Think It's done. Some of the blue highlights are a little thick, but I can't fix that on the gradient

>>51473011
From the thumbnail it looks like the Lord of Darkness from Legend. I was mildly disappointed when it wasn't.

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Tried my hand at making a spraybooth for under $30. Works even better than my old legit one thanks to an actually strong fan. Filter was pretty easy to make too.

>>51470808
To be fair, this is an ugly ass scheme.
It'd take a really good painter to pull it off.

Maybe not the best to start out on?

>>51472978
Really nice work anon, is nice to see some kitbashed tanks fully painted for a change.

>>51467965
Prime black
Do a pretty agressive drybrush of dark grey
Do a light drybrush with a lighter grey
Then redoo all the armor with the black of your choice leaving the edges.

I have never tried this, but a think it could work for shakyhand painters.

Hello wip bros. I picked up gangs of commoragh over the weekend and I'm starting to think about how to paint the minis. Since the models are supposed to be gangers and racers and street thugs, I had an idea to paint the bikes like some some shit out of fast and the furious. Has anyone done anything like this before?
I don't have an air bush, are there ways to achieve candy coat or snazzy glossy motorcycle paint jobs etc with just brush techniques?
Is it a bad idea to make each bike totally unique? I thought it might be cool to have each bike's paint job look personalized by the rider, and use the rider's clothing to tie the gang together. I'm slightly worried the different colors might stick out and look like shit tho.
No plans for starting a DE army, so how they look on a 40k battlefield is irrelevant.

TL;DR Can I make dark eldar jetbikes look like race cars without an airbrush? And if they're different colors will it look stupid?

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WIP Warhammer IIC, going to be working in some khaki or tan "raindrops" into the dark blue splitter patterns when done. Thoughts?

Got a question for you guys. So I'm painting my first metal minis (only ever dealt with plastic/resin in the past) and I thought I had them cleaned up well, but after priming one of them a mold line that looked like it had been removed is showing up. Looking at the bare metal it looked clean and I didn't feel a noticable difference, but it was running down an area that had a lot of other detail going on. Once I put on the primer it popped right out

Basically I'm wondering if it would be ok to try and clean that up and then spray some more primer on the area or if I should strip the whole model first and try again

>>51475005
>are there ways to achieve candy coat or snazzy glossy motorcycle paint jobs etc with just brush techniques?

No, you really need an airbrush if you want candy coating. Glossy you can do with brush on gloss varnish, but obviously it won't look as good.

>>51475098
You'll discover that you always miss at least one mould line. You can scrape it off and re-prime, although it'd be better to have some brush on primer for touchups like that, to prevent flooding the detail with a spray primer.

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>>51475005
Grav low riders.
Space Elf cholos.
East Los Commorangeles.
Look up Groupe Car Club and Lifestyle Car Club if ya wanna take my joke seriously.

>>51475098
You can, not like me, who finds moldlines when im edging.

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>>51475005
You can try the silver base+multiple glazes technique.

>>51475005
wonder why GW never really cashed in on some kind of wacky racing game. There'd be some real iconic cars like genestealer limousines, ork trakks, tau pirahnas etc.

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Finished my first chaos spawn, got 5 more to do.

What colours do you guys use on bone? I only used two, rakarth and screaming skull. Can someone recommend something else to use in between or as a better base?

>>51475412
look up Gorka Morka and weep that they haven't reprinted it yet.

>>51475412
>>51475554
Or Battlecars from their Dark Future line in the 80's.

>>51475139
>>51475302

Ok thanks. I'll have to test some techniques on the spare hoods and see what looks good.

>>51467382
>>51467404
>>51467486
to me it looks fine except for the sail. the sail stands our big time and makes it looks really amateurish. the rest is passable although a bit flat. you should treat all of the metallic bits the same way you treated the spike at the front of the barge.

>>51472978
this dark muted scheme you've got going on is wonderful

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Work continues on the boss. Hard to see what's changed since, but I'm about ready to start on her crossbow and power pack.

I did just get a package in the mail that may distract me a little, however.

>>51475589
>>51475554
or the various vehicle racing events they'd hold at Games Days

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Just finished my Hive Tyrant with Kitbashed TL devourers. I think I'm finally getting the hang of working with Pallid Wych Flesh.

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Working on old black orks box converted as 'ard boyz/nobz/dunno i just liked them even if they aren't "boyz compatible" torsos/arms

>>51475414
That's really cool. What did you use for a head, just a pink horror without eyes?

>>51475414

Maybe try the P3 Menoth white base/highlight?

>>51473820
That's actually a good idea. I've been pondering how to make some kind of setup for spraying in my apartment without getting it everywhere and providing good ventilation. I'm definitely gonna have to steal this.

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>>51475986
Yeah, its what im doing for my regular horrors aswell, turn the mouths upside down and cut off the eyes. I really dont like the goofy horror faces, they look alot better this way.

>>51475992
Will give it a try, thanks

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Anyone know how to make a chunk of floating rock like this? I have an Anvil Of Doom I'm working on for The 9th Age, and wanted mine to float to explain how a giant anvil on a stone base with a forge managed to make it to the battlefield.

Poll time. Do you attach weapons to your dudes before you paint them, or leave them off to do later?

http://www.strawpoll.me/12233762

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>>51476047
Pic related is what's going on it, plus extra workers if I have enough space. It has to fit on a 60mm round base.

>>51476047
styrofoam. i would probably put a small clear rod under it to give it a better sense of floating. you can also paint a shadow under it.

neat idea for a base.

>>51476074
I assume this means if the weapon isn't covering the chest or making something else harder to reach?

>>51476081
How many inches off the base do you think would look right?

>>51476047
It'd be as easy as cutting some foam and mounting it really, probably with a support rod embedded in the middle. As for making the foam on the bottom look like realistic earth, you'd have to spray paint a base coat on it. There's something in aerosol spray paints that I can't remember the name of off the top of my head, but it erodes foam slightly and can be used to make that lumpy, natural textured look. Alternatively you could use textured paint over foam if you're worried about spray painting.

>>51476089
Actually referring to if it is. Think a Marine bolter or something like that. Some people want to paint all the detail, some just want to paint what they'll actually see.

>>51476074
Not just the weapons. I leave at least one whole arm off, the backpack, and generally the head.

>>51476074
I used to but I don't anymore unless it's on an outstretched arm like a chainsword or something. Getting a brush in around the arms and gun of a marine to paint their chest details is too much of a hassle when I can just paint them separately and assemble after.

>>51476047
Have you considered using a Balewind vortex? Pretty sure that it might look a bit too magical for dwarfs though but its an idea for an alternative.

Otherwise a styrofoam. One thing you could do to make it look like it was floating is having roots poking out of the dirt beneath it and trailing to the ground, as if a chunk of earth was ripped from the ground, they would work as good support too.

>>51476148
Shit. Imagine I voted no then.

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>>51476195
Yeah, the magic effect is why I wasn't into the Balewind. I was thinking more of a heavy metal album look, using color and effects plus crumbling earth.

>>51476133
I'll try that out with some foam I have. Thanks for the tip!

>>51476038
I'll have to remember that as I dont really care for the plastic pink horrors as well.

>>51475414
I usually go
>Zandri Dust
>Ushabti Bone
>Pallid Wych Flesh
>White Scar
On my bones with the amount of paint and coverage depending on if they're decorative bones or teeth or such.

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Getting started on my gang, which is coincidentally from Commorragh.

All the riders are going to have Harlequin faces, as the best bikes are harlies.

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>>51476074
Regular troops like marines: backpack off, one arm + weapon off.
Everything else I do in as many subassemblies as possible to guarantee that every fucking detail is painted.

Big and fancy question /wip/

How do I make flowers for my bases? I don't need a lot so I don't think I should buy those plastic flowers

I've heard some tea bags are full of flower-looking stuffs, is that true? Can I buy them in the supermarket or something?

>>51476596
Army Painter flower tufts.

>>51475942
That paint scheme is sexy as fuck, the more I see it the more I like it

Thinking about getting an airbrush, but I can't find a compressor, mainly because I'm not sure what to look for. I've been eyeing the iwata neo, since it has generally good reviews but I'm not looking to spend more than 200-225$ for everything.

So far I have on my list
Iwata neo
Vallejo airbrush cleaner
Vallejo flow improver
Airbrush cleaning cup

>>51476704
My only advice is get gravity feed.

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>>51476704
Thinner.
Cleaning tools.

For the compressor look for one with a tank, basically. You should really look for youtube video reviews and advice on novice airbrush sets.

For instance I have this one.

>>51475942
Those other mini's are from NoHassle, yes?

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My DV Terminator Sergeants converted into Librarians (still deciding between storm bolter or dual melee with Mace of Redemption)

>>51473011
How'd you do that?

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Almost all of the homemade Wh40k Terrain is now built and painted. Gonna work on applying dust on the lower parts of the buildings with a color that matches the gaming mat so theres a more seamless blend between buildings and the mat.

>>51476703
Thanks! Hopefully I can keep it together with the rest of the model.

>>51476841
Yes, though the lady in the pencil skirt is from Infinity. Really crisp casts, they're going to be a breeze to paint once I figure out a scheme.

Some time ago an anon posted his/her alarielle that looked incredible. The beetle had a shiny green/purple carapace and he had linked the paint he used but I cannot for the life of me remember.

Anyone have any idea what paint it was?

>>51477247
You know what i like about your terrain? It not only looks good, but it looks easy to play on since you dont have many piecea of rubble on all th floors and what-not.

Great job!

Any of you fa/tg/uys post on the Warhammer/40k subreddits? They usually give pretty good criticism and frankly a lot of the stuff in here is better than what I see there.

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>>51477397
Thanks. I've tried to keep rubble and faction items near walls or barricades so they dont get into the way of model placement. The end goal is to have most buildings show sign of faction occupation. In our local circle that means Guardsmen, Tau, Eldar, Dark angels and Deathwatch.

>>51463029
>pale flesh
rakarth flesh
fleshshade
flayed one flesh
pallid wych flesh
and as everyone else suggested THIN THOSE COATS. Yours looks a bit thick.

>>51470727
I would bump it up to flayed one flesh and pallid wych flesh for pale skin. since Rakarth flesh is a darkish grey color.

>>51463387
>left and right
Ezra and Sabine?

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Been working on some plague bearers today

Does painting minis develop any marketable skills?

>>51477893
Attention to detail, time management and organizational skills come to mind. (You are talking about bullshit job interview answers, right?)

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>>51477749
WHY DIDN'T YOU GREENSTUFF THOSE JOINTS?!!

Anyone have a good tutorial on painting NMN?

I have some shiny green carapace I want to paint but I have no idea where to start , no one seems to make green Metallics either

>>51477482
Can i see your Tau-Occupied ruins? I need pics, for science (also because i collect Tau conversion pics)

>>51478156
I cant drag em out today but its basically leftover weapons, backpacks, helmets, grenades, "deactivated" drones and so forth. They are placed as if its an area where forces can go and restock on damaged/used items. In time i will add some faction signs on the buildings or maybe some imperial propaganda posters on the street-faced walls

my first pic has a building with Farsight-enclave items although its sorta grainy

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Squack

>>51470780

Nice and clean anon

>>51478329
Thats an odd looking Kroot, aint it?>>51478233
Well i trawl here regularly, so im sure I'll get to see them eventually

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>>51478411
You definitely will. Im having a friend over in a few days where we will dedicate half a day to painting terrain. So the work done so far will be posted here.

Pic related. the base of my Imperial knight is themed after the streets of our terrain with a Guardsman heavy weapons team that tried to hold off the knight.

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I just finished painting my Khorne Lord here, and now I'm scared shitless at the prospect of basing him. I wanna do a snow base but I've never worked with flock before and I bought a small pouch of it at a hobby store. Do I mix it with glue or just put the glue down and sprinkle it on top? I've seen guides that advise both.

>>51478457
why would guardsmen be holding off an Imperial Knight? Some kind of trade dispute?

>>51475414
I use Steel Legion Drab or Sylvaneth Bark as my base

>>51473820
Instructions please?

>>51467174
They look like normal guardsmen, sans the helmets. You might want to add those purple veins to their head, or lighten their skin up, because as is they just look like regular dudes that like wearing bandannas, gasmasks and goggles. Like Hivers or something.

>>51478623
its allied with Dark angels so we usually go with some sort of Fallen who turned a planet against the Empire from my perspective - and from the guardsman player then the Dark angels are just a manifestation of the God Emperors wrath for some sort of transgression

>>51478718
Isn't that exactly what 4th gen hybrids are supposed to be like?

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>>51478622
Mix it with glue THEN sprinkle it on top, makes a nice, thick finish.

>>51477247
What's it made out of?

>>51470692

Well, it is a commission for a furry, after all.

>>51476038
Huh. Thats a neat idea. Those do look a lot more terrifying....

>>51478807
That DOES look pretty good. Thanks anon.

>>51478859
5mm sandwich cardboard with medium hard foam in between.

i followed Terraintutors guides all the way

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3kZVVOPqwjA&list=PLohbeH3fTP1ukLXKz_wOPD9-jK6RmMfqU

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Hey, I just scratchbuilt a new landraider, C&C please

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>>51478992

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>>51479020

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>>51479047

>>51479067
Man, I don't wanna be an asshole, but those Tacticals look really awful.

>>51478805
Thought they were typically a bit paler. Guess I was going off the GW miniatures a bit heavily, but it just seems a little peculiar in my eyes, like people will keep commenting on them asking if they're proxies or something.

>>51479174
Could be worse. You can at least make out details on the model, so it's not smothered in paint.

>>51479020
Are those sponges?

>>51478992
>>51479020
>>51479047
>>51479067
Cute, I can dig it.

Did you document the building process as well? How long did it take?

anyone used black/grey gesso to prime a mini before? I'm seeing extremely mixed reviews about it.

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>>51479446
i just black liquitex gesso. i've had no problems with the marines i've primed this way.

>>51472093
Wait you mean like a sharpie? Or something else?

>>51479611
I mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Painters-Opaque-Markers-WA7518/dp/B001CE5I0A

>>51478805
Most up-to-date fluff talks about them as hairless with strong facial bones and maybe a faint hue to the skin, but otherwise entirely human.

>>51479651
I think you can paint over it or switch out bases, but better to paint them to your liking to recognize them of course

>>51478992
>>51479020
>>51479047
>>51479067
It's the best proxy model I've ever seen, better than a coke can by far, but I hope you never intend to bring that to a FLGS.

Also yeah, those tacs look awful.

>>51477749
>>51477959
>people who don't use plastic glue

>>51477139
those guys look pretty cool. Could you take a pic of the back to show what you did for the psychic hoods?

>>51479287
Assault rates in the US 'could be worse' but that doesnt mean they arent bad.

>USfag, so can confirm

>>51479863
Plastic Glue is clearly snake oil and a crutch for lazy painters.

>>51479863
Plastic glue pleb detected

Get on my Wood Glue level, feg

>>51479760
Yeah my question was mostly - will I get the markings off with some pain thinner or something like that without damaging the plastic.

Don't really know much about painting figures but I thought you need a primer and stuff so I wondered if adding those markers on the figures might be detrimental to painting a figure properly.

>>51479880
But if you are lazy about applying greenstuff it's great. It's fine anyway for tabletop quality, and it has the other benefits of limbs not popping off with the slightest bit of pressure or joints weakening at certain temperatures.

>>51479917

SNAKE OIL
N
A
K
E

O
I
L

If you're using that, you can go ahead and buy an airbrush or fuck it - BRUSH SOAP.

>>51479988
Snake oil implies it does nothing, it doesn't do as advertised, you can clearly see that plastic glue works fine.

>>51477925
Ha! I gave those exact skills in an interview sheet when they asked me to talk about it.

>>51467486
Your skull still sucks.

>>51478992
>>51479020
>>51479047
>>51479067
Mate, we've seen your shit ages ago. Pack it and go home it's still shit.

Move along people, it's just bait.

>>51479988
An airbrush is snake oil...?

What the fuck am I reading?

>>51467486
Oh man that sail...
>flat white stands out like a massive tumor
>crude drawing of a skull that looks like the work of some drunken Imperial Guard squad

>>51480168
Someone who doesn't know what "snake oil" exactly means.

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>>51479864
Hey thanks. I cut their back torsos and after some cutting and smoothing I stuck the remaining front torso on Grey Knights backs. Also used the Blood Angels librarian crux terminatus after removing the blood drops.

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Zenithal priming is neat. You can't even see it when right side up, it's actually quite fascinating.

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>>51480486
Same figure, right side up, with no external light. The shadows line up completely.

>>51480486
>>51480504
Moldlines reeeeeeeeeeeee

>>51480504
What is this sorcery and how does it end up helping if you're gonna paint over it anyways?

>>51480524
Meh, these are throwaway painting practice for me. Trying new techniques, not going for a golden daemon. And really, outside of the one on the gun it's pretty fine, and that one's small enough it's fixable in the painting stage.

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>>51480548
The idea with zenithal priming is to paint with translucent coats, either washes or glazes or very thinned down paint, so that the natural light highlight is carried through to the final result.

Pic related is not my model, but is an example of it which has been posted online.

>>51480579
Eh, sounds neat but way too gimmicky for my tastes. Also looks too shadowy in my eyes.

>>51480224
That was my guess. You've married the bits very nicely, I may steal. Somewhat related - have you painted any DA and if so have you used Caliban Green spray? I'd pay the exorbitant price to save myself lots of time if the color really is a good match with the pot paint

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>>51480224
And a really bad picture of my Interrogator-Chaplain.

>>51480554
Yeah, the grey I used ended up being too dark and too close to the black. If I were to try it again I'd use a lighter gray, so hopefully there would be a more gradual and less harsh effect.

I'll post the final mini when it's done, though.

>>51480613
>have you painted any DA and if so have you used Caliban Green spray?
Nope, haven't painted anything yet but I'm gonna make them the Angels of Vengeance chapter which is kinda like the Death Company in colors.

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Finally done putting this guy together. Bugger took me all damn morning.
He's still subassembled and blu-tack'd together, but I wanted to see just how he looks all put together at least once before I prime him.

>>51475269
I don't usually look at my models when I'm masturbating.

New thread.

>>51481827

>>51480611
The correct word you're looking for is _traditionnaly_.
Underpainting is a very classical technique used by the great masters when trying to convey subtle colour variations or depth. For example Ingres is famous for his paintings of skin and it's all down to underpainting.