WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

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Starting off with the first of my GSC Neophyte guardsmen. They're fluffed in my head as the contracted security force for the mines/industrial sectors where the rest of the Cult lives. The rest of the cult will get the 4-armed emperor scheme, more or less.

Any thoughts or tips?

>>51149430

I like the scheme. The weathered stripe on the shoulder pad is cool. I think I'd maybe try to highlight the grey a bit more but it looks pretty nice as it is. How are you gonna paint the more severely mutated guys?

>>51149430
Paint looks very good but you could crop your photos more. I'd also base your dudes a little more forward.

>>51149706
Thanks! I see what you mean about the grey highlight, my ulthuan grey went all chalky and made getting consistent highlights a bit wonky.

The more mutated dudes will get a scheme closer to the box art, but with the same teal/green instead of blue fatigues

>>51149736
It was a quick crop job, but at least it's under a mb haha

I had originally planned on rebasing them all with sector imperialis bases I painted up, but I think I'll dedicate those to the other neophyte models.

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Reposting to answer a question for Anon from the last thread.

The Torso and arms and just Cadian
Head is Skitarii Vanguard
The Legs are from Victoria Miniatures: http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/greatcoat-legs-mk1-x5-male
http://victoriaminiatures.highwire.com/product/great-coat-legs-kneeling-mk1
The backpack is green stuff, styrene tube, cadian bits, and pewter cast guitar wire from Dragon Forge because it is so much easier to work with.
http://www.dragonforge.com/Painting%20service/for%20sale/sculpting_supplies.htm

>>51149832
Very nice, did you freehand the designs on the armor?

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Worn 'n scratched, or thick and rusty?

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Made a little collage of my current wips to save spamming the thread with all my shit.

I'm not sure whether I should paint the shoulders of the warriors to match the theme or just leave them a dirty silver. I was originally going for a basic pint job for them hence the very minimal colours.

>>51149976
I think you need some blue on them somewhere just to tie them in to the rest of the army. Maybe the center of their chests or something

>>51149976
I did my nihilahk warriors with gold shoulders/forehead and a blue stripe down the forehead. It's pretty simple and makes then look way better IMO

>>51149976
>>51150088
You could also fancy up their guns with some gold, maybe on the coil part.

The nihilahk dynasty is known for flaunting their wealth, so show it off!

>>51134473
That looks beautiful.
Could you give us a quick rundown of that armor please?

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How should I base my chaplain? Something fluffy for Imperial Fists. Is marble things too Ultramarine?

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So many spider legs, so little time

>>51150376
Who protects earth and the imperial palace?
What's that entire building made of?

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>>51150376
You should base your miniature the same as the rest of your force.

>>51150490
good luck getting those things to actually fit on a base.

>>51150490
What are those?

Just got done putting the base coat of black on my first Deldar, but I'm not sure which color scheme to go with. I'm leaning towards the green simply because I haven't used them yet, but I usually try to do something other than the poster children colors, though I do like the green with them.

Also, how do I highlight up from black? The darkest grey I have is Eshin.

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>>51150791

Fuck me. God damn it.

>>51150715
Malifaux Jorgumo

>>51150803
I feel this. I like to be special and "my dudes" a lot with minis, but after a lot of thinking and looking around just went with the stock colors (with minor changes) for my DE because I really do like them the best.

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First time modeling/painting, only had metallic citadel paints, the blue wash and some shitty walmart colors I used for details.
R8, H8, Dliber8, criticism helps

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>>51151223

>>51150636
I am planning on copping out and using cork.

>>51151261
That one of your guys is killing a golden demon is poetic, in a way.

Get some real paints, base your miniatures, try again.

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Coming along. Mostly just touch ups and staff bits now.

>>51152026
Those skulls are a bit too blue for my liking

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Got these two for a steal, in person they were not quite as well put together as I would have liked but it's not too bad, I'm just going to do cleaning and minor greenstuff work.

I've posted my Russ and 2 Chimeras recently and they'll be posted in the same Army Painter Imperial Grey, with a pale yellow dazzle scheme.

>>51152026
this made me realize ive still got one of these half painted from when i started out the hobby
it looks like trash and i dont think i can probably greenstuff it ;-;

>>51150967

Yea, I might just end up doing that. They picked a good one.

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Are you ready to experience tranquility /wip/?

>>51152185
whaddya mean?

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>>51152334

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>>51152334

>>51152423
i got a mortarch from when AoS first dropped and its really poorly painted. took me half a month to paint all the bones rakarth + ushabti bone and none of it is thinned

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i still need to finish painting the tank commander and clean up details, but my leman russ is almost finished, sorry for the shit quality and the file size.

what do you think about it, /wip/?

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Finished Aeslin, she's turned out way too shiny and i'm not really happy with anything except the skin.
I'm trying to get ready for a tournament in February and i've got loads more stuff to get done but I think I'll be repainting her in the future.

>>51153353
They're certainly tournament ready IMO, but I agree that there's more to be done on some of them, just pushing the highlights on your greeny bark into the greys would help a lot.

OTOH, you've made me want to buy this box.

>>51152752
really nice looking weathering and I like colors you've used, but that camo just looks majorly shit - sloppy,uneven, thick, the whole deal. perhaps "realistic" to some sort of imagined hasty field modification on the part of a non-art trained tank crew, but it really drags the model down

>>51152752

Camo is far too symmetrical

Any ideas for alternate tank models? I know a 1/35 Char B1b or KV-2 would make a good Leman Russ, I might be able to use a Char 2c or MKIV Tank with a turret as some type of superheavy, but are there any good stand-ins for Malcadors, Machariuses, Valdors, or Baneblades?

I want to build my own own gaming board /WIP/, where should I start?

My minis have basing similar to Mars, though there's vegetation. I was thinking having it like the outskirts of a city or settlement, with the outside of the board with vegetation and desert, getting more populated with buildings as we move in

>>51149430
A little more chipping on the grey armour but I really like the colours you've got.

Im building my Kroot Shaper, what CSM warband should i paint his trophy Chainsword and Warp Talon Shoulderpad? Was thinking just Black Legion, but shall we let first dubs decide?

>>51153866
Not MY dubs, damn it all.

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>>51153866
Space wolves

I need your help anons, I am working on a Bad Moons Ork army, and need a good idea of what colors to use for the yellow, including highlights/dry brushes, from the citadel line of paints.

>>51152160
>hull mounted plasma cannon
Is that legal?

>>51154012
If it wouldnt stand out so much on ny albino Kroot, I'd say fuck it and go with this, i still might honestly.

>>51153454
>hasty field modification
i would say that is the idea, as i copied pea dot patterns applied by the german crews in russia, but that would be borderline "i was pretending to be retarded.jpg"

what if i do some chipping on the dots? to make it appear it was too thick and stuff like that, would that make it appear more like it was painted on the battlefield?

>>51153853
Thanks. It's the first of many, I hope to get the technique down better

>>51153866
Night Lords

>>51154093
do you have some pictures of the actual camo you've based this on? my feeling is that the "peas" are way too large and spread out, and the camo pattern underneath is wonky too

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>>51154219
> my feeling is that the "peas" are way too large and spread

you are right anon.


i hope i can fix this camo without stripping the paint, there is like a ton of weathering on it and it would be a shame to remove it.

>>51154018
Airbrush the citadel ones, start with averland sunset, Yriel and then flashgitz

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>>51151223
Well I agree that you should strip and retry with actual citadel© brand citadel© paints, but more importantly it appears that you left the hazard stripes off. There are many ways to do them and I personally use a very fine tipped permanent marker over yellow, but many people either use thin masking tape or have good brush control. I would recommend following thing guide for painting your dudes.

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This was my first necron. What do yall think? (I know about the little spot of red on the eye socket, will fix it when I get home from work )

>>51154649
Also, sorry for it being sideways. My phone seems to rotate my pics for some reason ...

>>51154649
Looks neat. Very contrasting silver/black. I've never played Necron; does the green tube come with the sets, or is it a piece of LEGO like I keep thinking it is?

also scale and rotate your images please

>>51154680
The tube comes with the set, and I would scale and rotate, but I'm on mobile and posting from work... can't do anything about it at the moment, unfortunately

>>51154725
Bullshit, I scale and rotate images on my phone easily. Get a free photo editing app for next time.

>>51154791
No need to get pissy about it, man. He probably didn't know about that.

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Just stopped at my FLGS a few hours ago - new store and I haven't been anywhere that stocks Citadel in ages.

The new pots look pretty terrible desu.

Also, they were out of Nuln Oil... so, I didn't buy anything. Next week I'll grab some (whenever they get a paint restock) and some Agrax Earthshade.

Are there other brands with comparable products to these two in particular?

>>51154791
Calm down autist

>>51154725
Cool. Is it loose or does it come on a sprue? I might need to ask my friend for some of his sprues when he gets a set if so, I've always loved that green colour.

>>51154862
Army Painter Quickshade Inks.
Specifically their Dark Tone (as Nuln Oil replacement) and Strong Tone (as Agrax replacement).
Nearly identical behaviour and look to the previous set of GW washes, namely Babab Black and Devlan Mud.

>>51154862
And get the Inks, not the dipping pots, very different products.

>>51154900
It comes on a sprue. It's a bit more brittle than the standard plastic, though, so be careful when you're cleaning it up. I only removed excess plastic from the ends so it would fit properly. Just rotate it so the connection sprue is hidden underneath.

>>51154938
>>51154954

Thanks. I'll have a look next time I'm over there.

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Trying to piece together a Techmarine with Primarch's Wrath (Relic Bolter) as I get tired of characters wielding a weapon in each hand.

How should I make it stand out from the rest of my army's (metal coloured)? I guess gold is a natural selection as it features in my army alongside black and silver but I'd like to hear unique views.

So, I know that the general consensus is that GW's Citadel paints are pretty "eh", especially for the price tag, but is there anything in their product catalog that's worth getting? Base coat sprays? Specific washes? I'm looking to get back into the hobby later this year and I'd like to start putting together a list of what to get and where.

>>51155136
A lot of citadel paints are good, the pots are bad sure but there's nothing wrong with the paint.

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update for the leman russ camo.

does it looks a bit better now?

>>51155136
The Washes are excellent and the Technicals are generally considered good.
And GWs metallic paints are still among the best if you're brush painting.

>>51155136
nun oil, reikland fleshshade/agrax earthshade, and liquid green stuff are used by a large number of diorama and model armour enthusiasts i know

>>51155249
are those tank tracks on the cupola as ablative armour? i love it

>>51155136
Washes and technicals mostly. The rest is whatever.

Are there any companies that make smaller track guards for russes and chimeras?

>>51155136
washes, metallics, glazes, technicals. The rest aren't 'eh' but I prefer vallejo unless theres a color that only GW has.

>>51154649
Looks good, contrast is sharp and the highlights look cleanly done. Have you considered how you're going to base it yet?

>>51155312
Modelsandminis ?

>>51155136
Don't get citadel's leadbelcher, I found out vallejo airbrush gunmetal is way better

>>51155136
Do you want to become skilled at painting regularly then go a head. If you're just trying to put together a modest army to play with then just stick with GW's paints. You'll save yourself time and effort and if you're buying the paints once you're only going to be saving pennies.

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>tfw accidentally assembled two (2) Corvus marines with Maximus chest armor

Almost twenty years in the hobby and I managed to get it wrong twice.

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Finally finished with this guy. Still need to paint the Volkite Blaster, but that one's still waiting for its green stuff to dry and I don't run it anyway.

I know the white is really fucking thick on the robe, but I tried some new stuff and it kind of worked and kind of didn't. Same goes for the Eradicator Ray, but I really cant be arsed right now to fix that.

Throw in some feedback if you feel like it.

I really need to get myself a lightbox of some kind. Taking a not-awful picture is incredibly hard.

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First ever finished mini, i think i screwed up... ;-;

>>51156161
I tried basing with Astrogranite Debris, but i literally have no idea how to make it look good

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>>51156161
your mini looks fine, and great for a first model.
with the granite, let it dry, then give it a wash with agrax, or nuln oil, or whatever colour you want it to be. when that's dry, drybrush it with screaming skull or another off-white, you'll get something like this.

>>51156294
do i need to lay it on thicker?

Is there any advantage to buying GW's expensive brushes or can you get something just as good from an art store?

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Gonna be stripping my space marines that I had painted (several times) since 2007. Seeing as they are 100% plastic, two squads of which are second edition marine plastics, I am going to be using simple green. No green stuff, no pewter. Just 100% terrible paint job, several layers of paint and bad life choices. And seeing as simple green is fine for plastics, I thought I'd use it.

That said, any tips? I've also got a brush prepared to scrub the sons of bitches hard. I plan on doing it one squad at a time and organizing their bitz (I've heard simple green melts super glue after a week. Fucking good.) in a container for each squad.

>>51155249
this looks much more "to scale" and is a big improvement!

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>>51156365

I should also add, some of them have at least two-three layers of paint, the newer ones aren't even primed. I'm guessing it'll be an easy though long process.

>>51156337
it looks fine, but maybe take it off the rim, that makes it look a bit untidy, but thats just preference. really, you just put it on as much as you like. if you have any, maybe put in some small rocks or things as detail.

>>51155834
the base is neat, and I like the blue glazing on the armor. the white/cream looks THICC and chalky, washes in some spots pooled too much and look shitty (axe, servo skull, plasma coil, etc)

How do you all keep your brushes clean?
I've been away from painting and playing for a year and just cracked out my brushes and they're fucking caked in red paint (spot the Khorne fag). Tried cleaning them in nail polish remover and it ain't getting rid of the toughest paint

>>51156490
after using them rinse them and wipe on a paper towel until i cant see a trace of colour

rinse them all in a brush soap every few weeks
its more about prevention i think

>>51154954

How is one supposed to use inks? Just water them down?
I've used some Vallejo inks in the past and they seem to have waaay more pigment than a regular wash does.

>>51156418
Thanks. I admit, I do have to look into fixing my shit when it comes to those coats (backside looks even thiccer and dirtier) and washes pooling too much on open surfaces is an issue I can't seem to get right, even though I used a 1mm diameter brush for applying it, not some house painting equipment.

The plasma coil was just me trying out how a 5 color progression with a guilliman blue wash would look like. Evidently, I'm probably just going to stick to Duncan's simple 3 step plasma coil method. Almost impossible to screw up and always gives acceptable results.
Thanks for mentioning the skull, btw. Forgot to highlight it, which would explain why its that brown.

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>>51157240
Inks are used to tint or blend colours (reducing contrast) while washes are used to shade the rececess (increasing contrast). I have used inks like a wash but afterwards I need to go back and repaint the base colours since the model looked too dark brown.

Pic somewhat related. I used red inks to shade the cloak and a blue ink around the eyes and nose.

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Looking forward or up

neither and I should kms?

Hey can that anon who posted the candy color marine post the picture and explain how he did it again?

>>51157944
WOAH THAT HEAD IS relatively HUGE

>>51157944
There's a plastic one coming at the end of the month. Unless you plan on fielding two...

>>51157944
Up.

>>51158052
He's already got it, I don't think he'd be willing to buy a second.

>>51158052
Omniscient Oracle needs kairos and a friend
Meet friend

>>51157944
forward, but you should cut off at least half of the length of the neck

>>51157944
Up, for maximum WRYYYYY

>>51158206
It's absolutely being cut down, but screaming forwards or up is what I want to figure out atm

>>51157944
wheres the head from? looks cool.

Show me nontraditional Khorne schemes. Preferably AoS / Fantasy.

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>>51158295

>>51156365
I usually let stuff like that sit for a few days (up to a week or more, if I'm particularly forgetful) in a tub of LA's Totally Awesome (a cheap, yellow cleaner from the local dollar store). After that, a good brushing with Isopropyl Alcohol (I use 91% myself) and a stiff brush should take off just about anything.

I will say that I have also had a few arms and other glued attachments come loose or drop off completely after the first soak, but nothing that can't be fixed.

Good luck, anon.

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>>51156161
another close up detail shot, i cant seem to figure out how to do highlights properly

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I'm throwing around ideas for a Necron-themed base and eventually came up with this. How does it look? Ignore the tomb blade.

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>>51158613
Close-up of an "unpainted" version to show the curves.

>>51158295
Archaon's Mount

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>>51156182
>I tried basing with Astrogranite Debris, but i literally have no idea how to make it look good

Jim: He sent him down for a "chat" with the astrogranite!
Bob: That's right, Jim! Looks like our "star player" has taken a sudden interest in the state of the pitch!

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>>51156490
>How do you all keep your brushes clean?

Obligatory

>>51158613
>>51158633
The base isn't a miniature in itself, it's merely a base. If it draws attention someone's missed the point.

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>>51158722
But yet, there's bases like these (among many, many others) - what purpose would they have if not to draw attention?

>>51158600
As far as highlights on cloth goes, it probably wouldn't be as bright as a highlight on metal. But the way you've done it makes it look like the cloth is supposed to have a white border, which still looks cool.

As someone that's never painted miniatures, I say it looks really cool.

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Trying to listen to daddy duncan

Judge me idk how to base yet

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>>51159383
His back. Also resized.

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>>51159383
Looks pretty nice, have you tried highlighting the armour?

As for basing, just buy basing paint, or glue slate or cork onto the base. Like pic related, I've since finished these guys but I thought that's be easier to understand.

>>51159508
I dry brushed the front armor a bit with necron compound. How would I highlight It? With more gold?

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Does anyone have any pointers for drybrushing very small details like the yellowish runes on this tree-rev

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HE HAS RISEN FROM THE GOLDEN THRONE AND GRACES US WITH HIS PRESENCE!

ALL PRAISE HIS NAME!

>>51160273
I was just about to post almost the exact same thing.

Duncanmind

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My very first mini. Invested some time though. Any tips?

>>51154051

I assume the previous owner wouldn't build it like this if...
(google image search executioner)
God fucking damn it

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>>51160273

Hey there, /wip/, newfag here. I'm new to modelling, and new to 40k in general. I love everyone's work, and I've been stalking these threads for a while. That said, I've never actually understood if everyone's love for the Dunc is sarcasm or not.

Do people actually love him and his advice? Or is it all some big joke I'm not catching?

>>51153866
Dark angels.

>>51160893
The Dunc is the reason any of us are even remotely good at painting anything.

And that's no joke. Also thin your paints.

>>51160893
no it's not a joke

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>>51157944

>>51161127
kek'd

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finally done with the pack apart from drill barrels and I can't be arsed right now

>>51157944
up holy fuck that's stunning

also how do you already have this

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Hey fellow /wip/ers, I'm sitting here painting, cleaning my brushes off with water, and was wondering two things. Has anyone used stuff like pic realted? Does it work, or is it just snake oil?

Also do they sell solutions that you would use as substitutes for plain old water than like instantly disovles the paint on the brushes AS you paint. So if I"m changing from like red to white paint, using the same brush, something I can use instead of water to do a much better job at instantly removing the paint more so than water does?

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What do you all think ready to be hit with the varnish?

>>51158746
not the guy, but...

As long as the base adds to the model and does not distract, I think it is fine. It should compliment, not compete with your eye.

I think the base you showed would be fine, but I think if you gave it bright green light around it or painted it bright green...it would definitely detract from your models.

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>>51161196
GW's choice to make this a haircut has always bewildered me

>>51160893

It's not a meme, his advice is solid, techniques simple, can even surprise painting vets with some hints and tips and speaking as someone who bumped into him at warhammerworld in 2016 is a genuinely lovely bloke.

>>51157944
*deep breath*
WRYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY

>>51161127
Fuck my sides. They're in the warp.

>>51161237
varnish? they dont look ready for that yet

>>51157944
Wait how do you have that head? The model isn't available yet. Who are you time wizard?

>>51161275
its off the archaon model

>>51158746
To look realistic and complement the model.
>>51159383
Clean lines so far but slap some highlights and/or washes on my boy
>>51160273
Aime af t b h lad
>>51160665
This is great for a first model honestly, I have very few criticisms besides perhaps an overreliance on drybrushing which tends to produce a fairly low contrast muddy looks, although in this case it could be deliberate. keep it up lad

>>51161272
Dang it, I'm worried about rubbing off the purple as that was airbrush work, and delicate. Other than the eyes what do you feel needs done?

>>51161237
You have 4 flat colours and the lines are shaky, so no, unless that's the standard you want to paint your models to, in which case why post them in WIP

>>51161301
id say hit it with a wash, pick out some more of the details like the chest pieces or pipes on the helms

some parts dont even look touched with paint, like the marine helm on the spike

some highlights after the wash would help too

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>>51159617
I build up red in this way.

Wazdakka Red > Wash with Agrax Earthshade > Painting Wazdakka again, leaving the shade in the recesses (watch Duncan paint like this, you'll understand) > Highlight with Evil Suns Scarlet (again, watch Duncan paint highlights), final edge highlight of Wild rider Red and then glaze with Bloodletter Glaze (basically wash it).

>>51161324
Flat 4 colors? The power armor plates are 5 colors. That transition. Hexed lichen to warlord purple, to squid pink, to dead white. Then washed in Baal red.
The gold is bright brass, with a Gehenna gold low light washed in Reichland fleshtone

>>51161401
Well then I can't see it because you need diffuse lighting, right now the transitions just look like natural lighting.

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>>51161401

>>51161427
Probably a lighting issue. I think I'll hit up the gold trim a bit more tomorrow after work pick out any piping I missed and...Damnit! I missed a skull right front and center on that guys chest. How do I miss such an obvious one. I guess that happens when your painting till this late at night and running the risk of falling asleep painting.

>>51161482
The entire pole on the meltagun guy is also white, skull and all

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Some /wip/ for some 5th edition Bret Grail knights. Missing shields, but just ordered some on the ebays...

What do you guys think so far? The white was really a bitch to get going on black primer...

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>>51161509
I tried watering down my paints more than I did with my previous models, and I think I"m getting the hang of it more...

>>51161509
>>51161529
looks smooth so far; good shit

>>51158394
Wrong, wrong, wrong wrong.
Wrong, wrong, wrong wrong.
You're wrong, you're wrong.

drcox.jpg

>>51161509
Good ass white.

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>>51158394
Holy...christ.... I hate what GW has become... BUT this is..a gorgeous model...

>>51158394
it's quite the paintjob

>>51161507
Yikes yeah. I need to get that space marine helmet. Maybe make him a blood angel? A nice splash of red?

There is the question of that fringe? tassel? What ever that thing is called that fluffy decoration any idea what color would look good on there? Red? Blue?

I want the army to have a sort of Vampire vibe to it. Maybe black?

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>>51161558
>>51161571

Thanks. Just learning how to control the more watered down paints. Like preventing them from running too much,

When you guys paint with thinned paints how long do you wait to apply another coat?

>>51161602
you feeling alright lad?

>>51161602
Probably just be consistent within the army, the guy behind's tassel is already blue

Lotta skellies and necrons on tonight. Good times.

>>51161621
Wait...I thought that was a top knot. Aka the guys Hair. Seeing as how they are Slaaneshi I figured weird wild hair colors work.

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tfw every time you settle on a colour scheme you see something else and start wishing your infantry wasn't already based and varnished.

Has anyone used those 98 cent cans of spray paints at Walmart or Lowe's to prime a model? I hear about it on dakka but the only stuff I find that's 98 cents or so is enamel. Am I missing something?

>>51161616
Sotta I was hopeing to have them ready for the game table by 5pm tomorrow. That doesn't give me long to finish them.

>>51161244
I wonder what it's called.

>>51161721
Get Duplicolor automotive primer, failing that Krylon brand. If you're feeling lazy and have the spare cash, you can opt for Army Painter colored primer.

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Almost finished painting my jetbikes

>>51161810
Sexy.
Don't put scatter lasers on them. PLEASE.

if i wanted to start a regiment themed around scattered survivors of the fall of cadia, what would be a good scheme? i was thinking grey/orange to hide in the ruined brickworks.

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>>51161836
Obligatory

>>51161836
Cadia literally exploded. There are no ruins.

>>51161887
Someone doesn't know shit. It split.
There are big chunks of Cadia floating about with automata still fighting Chaos etc.

>>51161721
i used that stuff to prime my little brother's tau last month

worked okay, but the finish was very gloss

>>51155582
Time to start another army
>>51161233
Trementine is a excellent paint remover and you can use it to clean yor brushes afterwards too.

I want to field a Wrathful Crusade for my BTs but don't want to spend cash on a squad of Scions. Still have my old as fuck "learn to paint" Ultramarine model things and was thinking if I might be able to convert the 5 of them into a squad of Scions somehow.

Anyone got an idea where to start with that and howI should do it with minimum expenses?

>>51162155

Where are you based out of Anon? If we could figure it out, I have a box of scions I have no intent on using. If you're in the US I could ship them to you.

>>51162189
Germany, unfortunately, so shipping would probably cost around 15-20$ already.

I really appreciate the gesture, however.

Noob question here: What is the most efficient way to spray a basecoat? I feel like I should do that before I put the miniature together but after I cut the sprues, but that sounds cumbersome, having to keep turning small bits wet with paint...

>>51162229
After (partial) assembly, depending on the model.

>>51162229
Different anon here with also a spraying question: when planning to spray a Leadbelcher basecoat, how should I undercoat the mini first? By hand with Imperial Primer or just spray some Abbaddon Black underneath or is there some other trick to it?

>>51160893
He is the emperor and I want his boipucci so bad

>>51162366
>not letting duncan firmly grasp your brush and stroke the tip to a nice point

>>51161678
>get my first marines at age 8 or some shit
>not sure how to either assemble or paint
>get more when 11 or some shit
>paint em blue because they were on the box
>these blood raven guys are pretty cool
>fuck i hate painting red and i'm not sure about blood ravens
>lel flesh marines
>tallern flesh with ogryn flesh wash on their armour
>know what's funny?
>pink marines with yellow beaks called pink flamingos
>how about grey? I really like space sharks

Latest idea is wannabe desert rats. Desert coloured, landspeeders and attack bikes to emulate SAS jeep raids, and three predators, one of which will have a guy in the hatch being handed a cheese sandwich.

Did anyone else not get their "Secret Santa" gifts?

>>51162258
Leadbelcher spray can work on straight plastic, but if you need the extra grip, it's chaos black first.

(Source: Stated on the WHTV stream)

>>51149430
nice work, waiting on deathwatch to start a GSC army. Are the guardsmen neophytes cheaper in points or are lasguns preferable to autoguns now? Also do they come with mining lasers and that stuff or is it only guardsmen stuff like launchers?

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>>51162706
>Did anyone else not get their "Secret Santa" gifts?

Beckenham anon (source of the totally sexy Mantis Warriors Johnny in the OP image) and I had a side deal where he and I exchanged gifts, but the "regular" SS didn't work for me. I know the lad in North Chesterfield, VA, got his because he posted it here, but I never received anything from whomever drew my address.

>>51163458
>Johnny anon got fucked

Now that's not cool at all people.

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It's an ugly planet, a BUG planet!

>>51163730
I'm from Buenos Ares, and I say _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _!

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Work continues on yet more malifaux stuff. Now this is basically done time to paint a tree monster.

>>51163458

That parcel took about 3 weeks to arrive. I was having Kittens!

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>>51163857
KILL 'EM ALL!

>>51163492
I dont like him forcing johnny so its fine by me

>>51164021
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIGHCoVzqtk

>>51164066
You're happy that someone who actively contributes got screwed over in something that's supposed to be about good will and community.

>>51162706
Still in unset limbo last I heard.

>>51161750
Mah niggah, Duplicolor car primer is my go-to.

>>51164148
The Valkyrie and Vendetta do kinda look like the drop ships if you meddle a bit with the tail, maybe I should get some.

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So, I stripped some old OOP Eldar a few weeks back. Decided afterwards I'd keep these (even if I don't play them) as I think they'll be fun to paint and the resale on OOP minis just isn't worth it IMO.

Anyway, I decided to start painting an old school Warwalker (like pic related, but with scatter laser and lascannon). Going with metallic green as a base. In WIP's opinion, would red or magenta work better as a secondary color? Also, is there a good way to highlight metallic colors?

>>51164207
I paint coloured metallics with ghost tint paints over a metallic basecoat. As for highlighting I do all of that before the metal gets tinted

>>51163942
I'm aroused.

>>51164207
>would red or magenta work better as a secondary color?

Depends on the exact hues of red, magenta and green.

>Also, is there a good way to highlight metallic colors?

Add silver basically. Or in this case a pale gold might work.

Alright, this post is probably going to be somewhat obnoxious but here goes:
So, I'm picking up my Triumvirate on Saturday. I've checked the Cawl painting video and the official recommended paints for the entire set that was posted over in /40kgen/ today and came to realize that I (obviously) don't have nearly even half of the paints recommended. If anyone can be arsed, can they try to judge if the stuff I already have is going to be alright for getting those paintjobs close to the original and what I should absolutely still pick up?

Anyway here goes:
- Burnished Gold (Auric Armor Gold)
- Yriel Yellow
- Gehenna's Gold
- Chainmail (Leadbelcher)
- Runefang Steel
- Scab Red (Khorne red)
- Blood Red (Evil Sunz Red)
- Abbaddon Black
- Imperial Primer
- Scar White
- Bleached Bone (Ushabti Bone)
- Codex Grey (Dawnstone)
- Mournfang Brown (Bestial Brown)
- XV-88
- Zamesi Desert
- Administratum Grey
- Ulthuan Grey
- Calthan Brown (also Mournfang Brown?)

And a few Greens, Blues and the obvious Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade, which aren't really worth listing. I'm mostly worried about the skin colors, Celestine's armor, wings and generally most of her parts. Also, not sure if Gehenna's Gold and Auric Armor are enough or if I need some in-between gold paint, since they're on almost opposite ends of the "gold spectrum".

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Some bloodbowl skaven getting there. Got the orc and human teams to paint also, and deathwatch overkill next week. Who knew starting up a games club would be such an effort.

>>51164207
>Eldar minigun
How old is this?

>>51164822
That's a 2nd edition scatter laser I think?

>>51163156
Guardsmen neophytes only come with an upgrade sprue that has alternate heads and grenades/knives for their belts.

Points-wise I think they're the same without upgrades/special weapons.

>>51164822
>>51164934

Yes. 2nd Edition scatter laser is correct. Model is from the 90's I believe.

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A son of Dorn reporting in

following this scheme here:
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Desert_Raiders_Chapter

>>51164981
interesting, they appear to be the same unit ruleswise guess it's just a fluff difference though why you'd buy them over a box of hybrid neophytes I don't know. Especially since you could just have allied guardsmen anyway.

>>51165056
I'm annoyed that I have a shit load of nonassembled guardsmen and I would have to buy MORE just to get the upgrade frame instead of buying just the upgrade frame

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Trying to get over a block at the moment, I'm getting really tired of power armour and vehicles and the distraction minis (zombicide black plague) that should be a nice break are stupidly delayed.

Hoping to get over that by doing a high effort job on this squad. I'm thinking red pistols and hazard striped swords, which I know some of you guys will be happy to hear.

>>51165056
Well one of the core formations for the decurion is an infiltrated guard regiment, so it's nice to have something that reflects that. Plus when you have ~60 neophytes to paint up it's nice to have some variety.

>>51165087
They're available on ebay, and one comes with the GSC leman russ, too.

>>51163458
I got mine. But, I feel bad because I have no idea if the one I sent was received. I lost the tracking number and haven't seen it posted.

Anon from Greenville, TX. Did you get your gift?

>>51165207
I looked yesterday and couldn't find any. What did you type in the search bar?

>>51164822
Looking through the "collector's guide", it appears I nabbed every Harlequin from the 80's as well as a "War-Demon" dreadnought from '87. Going to be a long road of stripping and repainting...

>>51165264
Usually "genestealer upgrade sprue" would work. You're right though, looks like they're gone for now. I've noticed they're availability fluctuates pretty wildly, GSC stuff are hot items.

>>51165321
Their* availability.

I'd just give it a few days/week

Where do I find a Johnny for my Deathwatch collection ?

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I recently asked what to do with some H columns for my Barricades terrain. Heres an update on them. Painting is about to commence. Theyll be heavily rusted with an original color of light olive brown.

Posted in HHG, but dropping here as well as somewhat related:

Does anyone have any swell ideas for an "uncorrupted" 30k counts as for a Palanquin of Nurgle?

Maybe like a throne on treads or something? I'm stumped.

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Hi /WIP/
I need to get SoB backpacks (I have 2000 pts of infantry with no backpacks)
I could not find them on eBay for months (except one or two, overpriced af)
I decided to cast them
Redpill me on casting /WIP/
What material should I use to produce en masse (100+) for a reasonable cost??

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How is my greenstuffing? I feel like it's getting a little "furry". Any tips and tricks? Sorry I couldn't change the resolution on my phone.

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>>51165640
Regs Palanquin for reference.

>>51161584

> I hate what GW has become

Are you a timetraveller from 2014? GW under Kevin Roundtree is exponentially less shit than the dumpster fire it was under Kirby just a few years ago.

>>51165655
Looks good in places and a bit sloppy in others. A bit of definition would go a long way to making it not look like greenstuff.

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>>51165640
Try to get your hand on the dead termie on throne from Space Hulk and work from there.

>>51165640
>"uncorrupted"
>Palanquin of Nurgle?

Does not compute.

>>51165824
That is an awesome idea, but not 30k enough and I imagine it goes for all the moneys on ebay.

>>51165857
"Counts As" you silly billy.

>>51165640
What does the palanquin of nurgle actually do?
Could you count it as a giant survey drone or communications hub for example?
Think along those lines. I can't think of any reason why somebody would be carried around like that in 30k, so you gotta get a bit more creative with your approach imo.

>>51165903
That still doesn't explain shit. Maybe if you told us what you were planning, people might have a better idea of what to suggest.

So I'm wanting to start painting some minis I primed a year ago, they are a bit dusty. Will they be fine if I wash them or do I need to use some Air duster to clean em

>>51161930
So it's all good to use enamel spray?

>>51163458
>Beckenham Anon
Are you missing legs to some MKIII marines?

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>>51164175
How much does that stuff usually cost you?

On a side note here are my tau vespid. The first ever squad of models I've tried to paint. Spraying them white made the base coat of grey hard to put on.

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Need some ideas for heraldry on my Exarch's shield. Freehand and swords is where im leaning.

>>51165923
Large base, very bulky, +2 wounds and +1 attack.

That was my worry, sitting him on a throne might make him look a bit daft. Maybe a bit of weird looking 30k tech might be a great way of fitting the required bulk. A Comms relay or aomething along those lines might be a cool idea.

>>51165942
Well I'm just trying to scout ideas at the moment, hence the ambiguity. It has to be something non-chaos, that fits the 30k aesthetic. My first instinct was for a mount of some kind, but the above anon raised a good point.

>>51165655
The bit on his left arm looks a bit weird, considering it'd be growing out of a metal plate. I'd advise that you either cover the entire plate or remove the piece (I think you can, can't you?) and greenstuff from his arm instead.

>>51161584
>I hate what GW has become
has become? gw has been amazing for the past few years.

>>51166026

No, don't use it.

Evenin' guys.
I'm going to be getting these orcs and converting them with 40k bits into snakebitas.
What do you think? I'm also going to convert some to fantasy/age of sigmar the same way.

http://em4miniatures.com/acatalog/Copy_of_Fantasy.html

>>51166546

Sculpts look pretty old and not very good. Well, they're cheap at least.

>>51162706
Didnt get mine desu

>>51166570
That's the point. I plan on using em to fill out a horde as something quick and easy to paint.

>>51165643
milliput/greenstuff mix in a press mold: I'm sure some other anon remembers the correct ratio.

>>51166546
I think the GW wildorcs would be a lot easier to convert since you could just plopp the 40k hands, arms and weapons on them.
If these sculpts are smaller or just don't have hands that are the same size your job already is a lot harder.
I mean they are certainly cheap, but if you are gonna invest all the time and energy to convert them, you don't want them to look cheap too, if you get what I mean.

>>51165643
damn i love that red. how did you do it anon?

also a certain recaster has them for .18 cents a pop if you know where to look

>>51166684
I've got a good mix of oldhammer in my army and these seem to be oldhammer sized. I think with some sluggas and shootas that they'll be fine. My army's fluff is that it's an waaagh made by ghazghkull

>>51165643
>Redpill me on casting /WIP/
>What material should I use to produce en masse (100+) for a reasonable cost??
If you got say five you can do a silicone mold where you could pull another five from the mold every 20 minutes.
Basically doable within 7 hours or so assuming minimal miscasts.
Thing is silicone is the most expensive thing about the whole casting process.
With a kg of resin you can do several hundreds of bits though. So it all evens out.

And for doing something like an old metal bit you don't even need an elaborate two part mold or something.
Just do a splitmould and you should be fine.

>>51165643
Silicone and resin casting for producing that many.
You're looking at a startup cost of around 200$.

>>51166859
>You're looking at a startup cost of around 200$.
Not sure if that is because you are using dollars, but in € you'd be looking at about half of that.
From what I remember people talking about here places like micromart have starter kits for casting, that are quite a bit more affordable.

For casting one specific bit you also don't have to buy several kgs of silicone.

>>51166912
Yea it's because I'm using dollars. Also, wiggle room.

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>>51165643
~$50 on Amazon; Oomoo 30 silicone and Smoothcast 300 come in a pack. Two component silicone mold and two component (white) polyurethane resin; the former takes a day (12hr) or so to cure properly, while the urethane you can pop out of the mold in 10min.

The amount of material you get with those $50 could let you make probably 10 backpacks at a time, if not more.

>>51166946
>Yea it's because I'm using dollars
I wasn't talking about currency conversion, I was saying your estimate seems to be to high.
Maybe getting the essentials is more expensive in the us though.
But unlike in Europe you got these fancy starter kits I keep hearing about so that might be a way to save a buck, is what I'm saying.

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More spoops, various hexwraiths in various stages of painting.

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>>51167081
Wraith I did quick for a game, super disappointed with that seam.

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Does anyone know where I can find more details about this paint job? I'd like it look at it more in detail but Pinterest is a garbage site with a garbage interface - this is as big as it gets, and the link directs me to Google Images. I know it's a Stormcast Eternal, but that's it.

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>>51167108
Similar, might be later in painting or just a different model. Here, the link's actually dead.

>>51167108
I'd just check out some nmm tutorials and replace the colors with turquoise.
Google around for the sanguinor tutorial.

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>spend a bunch of money on high quality silicone for a good mold
>absolutely filled to the fucking brim with bubbles

I never had this problem with the alumilite silicone

>>51167165
>High-quality silicone
Brand/model? Would like to know to avoid it.
I'm getting "okay" results with Amazing Remelt; would probably do better if I didn't use plasticine and my models were dryer.

>>51167187
oomoo 30

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>>51164207
These colors compliment each other.. r-right?

Phone takes terrible pics. Sorry.

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>>51167198
>oomoo 30 bubbles
Are you sure you're mixing/pouring it properly and that it's a relatively fresh batch? I don't want to sound condescending, but I had the same problems until I reread the instructions and tips a few times.

-don't whip it/mix too fast, you'll introduce extra bubbles. Use a wide/wider stick to mix it so you don't have to move it around as much
-make sure it's a little warm when you mix it, it becomes less viscous and bubbles rise to the surface easier
-make sure you pour REALLY high; like, almost a foot or so above the part you're molding - the bubbles pop when the stream is very thin and you get a smooth mold.

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Guys, what skin color scheme to use? I cannot really decide...

>>51167061
Can vouch for Oomoo; stuff's pretty easy to use. A couple of words of warning though;
1. The stuff's got a limited shelf life after you open the cans (half a year to a year maybe). Use it or lose it.
2. The molds themselves won't last forever either; if the casting process doesn't do them in, age and the drying process will. Keep your masters!

>>51167287
That first one looks a fair bit better.

>>51167245
looks alright to me, especially for the old-school models

>>51167287
left, with more highlights on the red

>>51167311
Yes, I forgot to mention: HEED THE LIMITED SHELF LIFE WARNING. I live in a warmer (but dry) climate, and was constantly afraid of using up my oomoo because I didn't know what I was doing, I felt I would waste it, etc. - well, now I have a chunk of almost-unusable silicone because I didn't use it in time. I can brush it on, but it's no longer liquid and the consistency of hot chewing gum. I'm finally ready to use it again because I have things to use it on and experience with the Remelt, but all of that was wasted because I was hesitant.

Polyurethane's still good, though, as long as you keep it capped.

>>51167165
>>51167267
>-make sure you pour REALLY high; like, almost a foot or so above the part you're molding - the bubbles pop when the stream is very thin and you get a smooth mold.
this is a good tip.
I've seen somebody do this by putting his moldbox under the corner of a table and putting the cup on the edge of the table and poking a hole in the cup.
A little adventurous for me, since I don't want to clean silicone off my floor, but it's a good idea non the less.

I just use a shitty old brush and cover my master by hand with a coat of silicone before dumping the rest into the mold and doing all the other stuff you can do to get the air out.
Works too, all you need is some turpentine to rinse out your brush though.

>>51167267
When I made the mold it was a bit cold, and part b seemed a bit chunky

Ill try warming up the bottles a bit before making a new mold.

>>51167383
I might try this as well

>>51167335
Don't mind the red, it is gonna be the same, or the wings, gonna paint those later, just the skin: one is steel legion drab on everything, black wash, then ushatbi bone for the details. The other one is rhinos hide everywhere, then only in the raised parts steel legion drab, then iyanden sun and sunburst yellow

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Dumb question: How legal are these to sell?

I want to get into making my own terrain and accessories such as this but don't want to get screwed over by GW's lawyers. I'm seeing all sorts of stuff like this where it may-or-may-not be Warhammer related and instead be "totally generic I swear" gritty scifi terrain, but the large spike is a complete, obvious rip off of the Eldar webway portals. It's even named "Elven Dais".

Is it alright if I make original designs in the sense that it's not recast and not an exact copy of a GW product and has an original name (like Space Elf portal instead of Eldar Webway), or is this a pending lawsuit? Because the site seems to sell a LOT of not-quite-ripoffs and they're still around.

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>>51167475
Pic related as well. This is less a copy of the webway portal design, but it's very clear what they were going for.

>>51167468
Ah, well I still say left

>>51165643
You might consider these but they are a bit expensive alternatives as well. Could help sgts stand out but I'm unsure of how the size lines up on them compared to marines.
http://maxmini.eu/conversion-bits/torsos-and-arms/gothic-backpacks-bits

>>51167475
>>51167494
the only way GW could C&D that was if the scenery used original iconography (the ying-yang thing is not copyrighted) or if they obviously copied and entire design by GW.
Since GW never made Eldar scenery to begin with that cannot happen though.

So it's completely legal and there is nothing they have to worry about.

>>51167619

But it showed up in Dawn of War, which was made by GW through Relic. Can that count?

>>51167475
Just call it an alien portal

>>51161196
I like these. Is that battlefield in a box terrain?

>>51167648
>But it showed up in Dawn of War, which was made by GW through Relic. Can that count?
That's more complicated.
I don't know from the top of my head how it looked in Dawn of War so... I dunno? As long it only looks similar and not completely identical it's not like you can claim a general design language. Shapes and forms are not copyrightable. Something specific is though.

And even then, if it is 100% the same thing you'd have to be able to have a look at the contracts between relic and GW to determine who would have a claim to that specific design, if at all.

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>>51167475

People making their own terrain? I have a question. I use CAD to make a lot of stuff for fun. Right now, for instance, I'm working on a Tau power generator, like the one in Dawn of War. It's not even close to finished, though.

What programs do you guys use to make things? I've been using Freecad so far, due to its similarities with CATIA, but it's finicky at times, especially when I need to put details on curved surfaces (don't know how to do that yet). Is there a better program out there?

>>51165640
Dreamforge has these "mules" that are essentially a walking flatbed with mechanical legs and sensors on it (two different head options). It could be modified if you don't like the legs (they're a bit dainty). Worst case scenario, you've dropped around $25 on a buncha bits you could use elsewhere.
http://dreamforge-games.com/collections/everything/products/eisenkern-stormtrooper-accessory-set

>>51157944

For those asking ...
Look at the Archeon Everchosen box.
1 of 3 heads in there.

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>>51167748
Blender. I'm looking into using Freecad or OpenSCAD, though, because it's an actual CAD program.

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Need some help.I am trying to achieve the circled finished product in pic related. When the chart is asking me to layer Straken Green and Nurgling Green is it asking me to paint layer 1 and 2 as highlights? Or is it asking me to paint layer 1 overall and layer 2 as highlights? If I try to paint layer 1 overall it never comes out as circled finished product, but as a much lighter outcome? Someone clear this up for me please.

>>51167311
second warning--that white resin shit gets pretty hot when you mix it--do not spill it on an unprotected bodypart

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>>51168372
Blender probably better for actual soldiers with it's sculpting instruments. I'm currently trying to do just that - you still need to do a lot of work on a low poly model if you want the end result look at least okayish.

>>51168617
I don't sculpt because I don't have the skill for it, but I've heard (and seen) Blender has decent sculpting tools. Are you using just a mouse, or did you get a stylus/tablet to work with? I feel like that's necessary but am unsure.

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>>51165035

>>51168673
Mouse. I have stylus but it is old and shitty. My mouse has much better precision. The image above isn't even sculpted - it's just an average low poly model with applied smoothing and multiplied polygons.

Basically you get references and draw a character from front and side (at least) and then start creating a low poly model using this image as reference for your 3D project. You may need some additional drawings of more complex parts. After low poly model was done you may start sculpting.

If I don't kill myself in the process by virtue of losing skin from my head together with hair that I periodically rip out I hope to get one ready model and try to make a small steel mold.

>>51168878
>small steel mold
Are you doing this at home, or sending the model out to a company? If the first, I envy you. If the second, wouldn't the cost be prohibitive? I've always been told that metal/injection molds are "very, very expensive" but that was for mass production on gigantic machines, so I'm unsure what a one-off mold for home use (casting, I assume?) would cost.

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So /diy/, I've been digging around my stuff since I want to get into painting and knew I had some brushes - found these. Can't say I'm not disappointed, but I was a kid and didn't know what was good and what wasn't. There's at least a couple of good brushes in there, though.

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>>51168966
More importantly, however, I found a LOT of old paints I had from when I was a kid. Is this "type" of paint anything even remotely usable? They're not all the same brand but it looks like they're all acrylic. If I watered them down, do you think these would be usable for a while? Or should I just wait until I can afford Citadel/Vallejo paints? It'd be a shame to waste these, there's about 30 different colours in there.

>>51167774
Ah yeah, might be a tad dainty, but cool nonetheless.

>>51168966
oops, typo, /wip/, not /diy/.

>>51169004
They'll be fine for terrain, but you really do want to use paint designed for miniatures on miniatures.

The pigment is smaller in miniature paints, which lets you thin it better and also means it dries smooth. If you try to use those paints on minis, it will go chalky and lumpy and will be a pain to thin.

>>51169004
They're acrylic paints, same as citadel's brand, but the quality of the pigment may vary wildly.

I use "folk art" brand brushes because they're cheap, come with plenty of detail brushes in the set, and I dont care if I mess them up.

>>51169004
"Yes."
It varies from paint to paint, but I have used some of that stuff in the past to varying success, like how I was able to do some decent leather with Americana browns, but the reds were terrible for everything.
Also: great as terrain paints.

>>51157944
Forward is better. Up looks like he stepped on a loyalist lego

>>51169048
>>51169073
>>51169078
Okay, thanks. I am planning on getting Citadel paints, just waiting for some disposable income first.

>>51168924
My brother made milling-machine initially to make musical instruments but he rarely creates them. So you can say it's at home. And I will make a small mold for resin (maybe some harder polyurethanes). Considering that we have access to small thrown away steel pieces from a factory it's more or less costs as much as machine costs running (and its parts deterioration).

But it is of course not a professional mold for plastic - this are not a thing you make easily at home. And weight 30+ kg.

>>51169167
>home milling machine
Ach, I envy you. I want a CNC but can't afford one yet; trying to convert my 3D printer and dremel into a very jury-rigged 2D acrylic/wood cutter.

As somebody just starting, is "miniature paint" absolutely necessary, or can I just water down regular old house paints?

>>51169397

>>51169048

>>51169397
The models aren't really cheap enough to ruin that way IMO.

>>51169397
>house paints
Like the paints you paint houses with?
No.
Gods no.

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>>51169397

Please don't do this.

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>>51167287
I listened the guys in the shop.
Now I regret it.
Strip it or just cover it again with color?
Or just keep it?

>>51169676
You've embraced a very cartoony scheme now, with a lot of value and hue contrast. Finish that model by really pushing the contrasts on the red and see how you feel.

>>51169676

Why is there random spatters of yellow all over your mini? Looks god-awful.

>>51169676
This can be worked with, I think it'd look great shifted slightly redder, yellows to a more orange-brown and reds just brightened

What are some good paints to get for painting skin tones?

Only play AdMech and Space Marines, so the only skin I ever painted were 2 heads I mixed skin color together with Ushabti Bone and some other crap and the hand and face of my Dominus.

>>51170197
Bugman's glow for a base, cadian fleshtone for the layer, kislev flesh/pallid wych flesh for highlights, fleshshade for shade

>>51170478
>Fleshshade for shade
>Shades only sold in 7,50$ canisters
>need it for Greyfax, Celestine and the Geminae only
There's not really a use for that outside of painting skin that Agrax Earthshade wouldn't do better, is there?

>>51170641
Fleshshade is almost mandatory for skin, the good news is that for easy-mode skin you can just apply it straight onto white and get perfectly adequate skin right there.

>>51170700
Huh, that's neat. Guess I'll just stick to that and save myself the money for all the other paints.

Thanks for the advice.

>>51170723
Fleshshade can also be used to wash gold, so it won't be a total loss.

>>51170764
True, or anything you want a reddish wash for instead of the browner agrax

>>51167061
oomoo is nice but imho you want to use Mold Star 20T... i find it to be a little cheaper (from where I buy it) and its quite a bit more flexible and thus less prone to cracking.

I'd also reccomend checking out the smooth on website to find local retailers of smoothon stuff, there might be one in your city/town/area... I've found they charge less than amazon...

if you're 'lucky' enough to live in a big enough city you might have some stores (like Compleat Sculptor in NYC) that you can just walk straight into and buy the stuff

>>51170940
I'm lucky enough to live in a city where they (Smooth-On) have a headquarters of Reynolds Advanced Materials (IIRC), I just haven't been able to make it down there yet.

>>51166178
THAT'S real fuckin amazing. What about a heart with crossed swords through it? Or one sword? With the gold and white, it could look like a Biel-tan riff