WIP - Work In Progress General

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Custodes claim this thread in the name of the Emperor.

By empirical decree, you must post your current works in progress.

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Here's a really sloppy job I did painting my Rune Priest.

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Working on some Mark 3 Marines from Prospero as well as some Bloodbowl Orks.
The Marines just need their mold lines cleaned and their bolters drilled then they're ready for priming like the squad behind 'em.
The Orks aren't even glued together and their bases are at a friend's house, but they're at least off the sprue and assembled. Might even play a game with them when I head to my friend's to pick up the bases.

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>>50707384
Nice paint job but man, I'm really not big on the poses in the instruction manual. Something about 'em rubs me the wrong way. They look nice nonetheless.

I don't think my own little gitz will turn out half as well.

>>50707524
i'm just following the citadel painting guide, with a few minor alterations. i had to headswap the commander since i did a random grunt with the cape before i realised it was the only cape. thats why hes dorking it up with two weapons instead of something more elegant. but thanks! good luck with your sisters. i'm gonna paint mine in jet black armour with really pale skin, maybe a headswap. in the books i always pictured them as really ghostly shadows, rather than in burnished armour.

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>>50707613
>i'm gonna paint mine in jet black armour with really pale skin, maybe a headswap
Ha, great minds think alike I guess.
Both my Custodes and my sisters are going to be rockin' black armor with red and white highlights to fit in with the rest of my collection (Flesh Tearers and Graian Skitarii).

I had also considered headswaps for the sisters but gave up after not finding any that struck my fancy. Ordering an Immolator soon though, might recast the Sabbat pattern helmet outta that a few time for 'em if it fits.

>>tfw still no secret santa, and my chinese recasts have been stuck at the post office for more then a month.

>>50707789
My chinese fire raptor got sent back to china. :/

>>50707789
I can deal with no getting anything, even if it annoys me a bit (more people to participate= bound to have more people that just want to profit) but what really pisses me off is that my present still hasn't arrived, whereas the post office told me it would be in Huddinge on the 8 or the 10th max.
Either that, or the dude didon't post a confirmation.

>>50707820
>Fire raptor
>Recast

It's like you're asking for a 3 hours struggle to build it. The original is already a huge mess, can't imagine what the recast is.

>>50707831
I am waiting with some slight dread but a friend made an order for a bunch of stuff and it was cheap so I decided to take a chance.

Hey /wip/, I've just found out about Blue Stuff from Green Stuff World (http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/reusable-blue-stuff/8-blue-stuff-mold-8-bars.html).
Is it comparable to Oyumaru (https://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Making-Oyumaru-Perfect-Project/dp/B00MG5PYPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481800208&sr=8-3&keywords=Oyumaru)?

I'm probably going to end up going with the Oyumaru just because of availability, but they seem to work exactly the same. Is there any notable differences?

What the hell do I use to drill a 10mm hole? I've got pin vices which go up to 3mm so I could do it painfully by making multiple smaller holes, but I'd rather not. I'm clueless when it comes to proper drills, I've been looking at hand drills but they all only seem to go up to 8mm.

>need 10mm because thats the size my magnets are.

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>>50707384
My Greenskin green primer clogged to death, so no progress on Orks until January.

I managed to rig up a mount for the Vulcan mega bolter to count as assault cannon for my Razorback

I could assemble more deathwatch, but my razor-saw slipped, so can't really do precision work.

>>50707906
Make a simple T-handle.
Hot glue a 10mm drill bit to it.
Drill like a boss.

>>50707888
I is basically the exact same stuff, but one is tinted blue for marketing reasons.
>Blue stuff
>Green Stuff
>Grey Stuff
>etc

>>50707926
How the fuck did you manage that, tell me you weren't holding something in your hand as you used the saw on it. Get a vice.

>>50707927
I
You know, that's not too bad of an idea

>>50706907
In the same way as the rest of ya army. Always remembah that.

>>50707939
>How the fuck did you manage that, tell me you weren't holding something in your hand as you used the saw on it. Get a vice.

Well i needed to cut a plastic fuel barrel in half to use for the gun mount., suddenly the saw cracked the glue and came down.

I do need to get a proper miniature as the one i have is tiny and has a sharp edge that ruins shit it holds.

But yeah, gonna be a bitch as saw cuts are ragged shits that heal poorly.

>>50707962

You can get pads for vices. Look into the kind that watchmakers use, my dads got some and they're more than adequate for holding anything thats notbigger than a dreadnought, or smaller than a smurf hand. Fill your cuts with superglue and call it a day.

>>50707972
Yeah, my old vioce was a dollarstore piece of shit, some soert of half spring loaded thing, it jumped off the tread while trying to gape over the vulcan turret..

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>>50707939
Buy a cheapo screwdriver set where you get interchangeable drive sockets like pic related.
Buy cheapo drill set.

Works wonders.

>>50707888
You would get twice the bang for your buck from this seller, but no shipping to Straya or US.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oyumaru-modeling-Compound-Moulding-Stick-Clear-12pcs-set-/231356647299?hash=item35ddee4783:g:lvAAAOxyNSVSQ7iT

newbie, what is a dremel and what do i use it for?

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>>50708093
drilling, cutting, sanding

>>50708093
http://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Dremel-Tool

>>50707822
no, still haven't recieved it - but like I mentioned in >>50707789
I think the post office has been swamped by christmas stuff, not to go all /pol/ but >>privatize the postal service, fucking never. here's to getting it in january - desu I'm just happy I'm getting something and I'll post me opening it the moment I come home with it anon!

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Tried making a tree for TT terrain, looking to make some more stuff that can add character to a game board.

If you guys had to do a year in miniatures what would be some of the big standouts for you?

Every fucking time I go into a wip thread people are painting one of 3 things:
1. Warhound Titan
2. Ogre Thaumathurge
3. The same goddamn Khorne guy that got shipped out in an issue of white dwarf or something.

I'd just like to know where the trends come from

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Fuck, lets fix orientation
>>50708220

>>50708041

Thats a great idea, thank you

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Any good painting guides for Death Korps in general ? There are some videos for troops and riders but commissars and canons are quite forgotten it would seem

>>50708101
>>50708122
thanks. some dude said current dremels spin too fast and might melt plastic, how factual is that statement and if factual what can i do?

>>50708281
I believe most quality one have a speed setting, evne then a light tough helps.

Postman comes, no secret Santa

Royal mail pls

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Reposting from last thread, will be basing him up today.

>>50708281
Get the cheapest one. I got mine for like, 30$ and a set of cutting sanding tools for 30($90 worth if you buy it all piece by piece)

It has a high and low setting, neither of which has done damage (other than me slipping or dumb stuff.)

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Magnus' finest coming through

>>50708494
man that blue is mighty dead.

>>50708494
So resizing is noble and all, but unless your camera is a potato I think you've resized so small that the highlights on the blue are nearly invisible.

>>50708494
You need more lighting to get rid of that graininess.

>>50708494
Your camera is shit but your painting doesn't seem to be.

That ultra beakie man is giving me a bone every time I see him!

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>>50708673

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Just finished my first ever figure, how badly did I do? Inb4 dirty nails, they're covered in paint.

>>50708761
Not a bad start! The photo isn't that gread but I see most of it.

You're doing good with the highlights but you might want to wash your bone and skin colors before applying the highlights to give the color more depth.

>>50708378
Nice cloak and beard anon, how did you get that?

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>>50708761
5 sec on a phone to make it more bearable. Think about it next time.

It's not terrible but is it the photo or did you or use any wash at all?
You end up with botched eyes and going over bones when trying to paint the crevices when you could use Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade to have a nice, thin finish.

Have you tried looking up Duncan's tutorials for Ghoul's skin and skeletons?

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>>50708791
Side view. And thanks! I did a wash right after the bases, but I accidently covered most of it. When exactly is the best time to do washes? Between layers?

>>50708828
>When exactly is the best time to do washes?
I usually do it after the base color and before the highlights/layers.

I usually go about it that way:
- Apply base color
- Wash
- Broad highlight with the same base color
- Fine highlight(s) with layer paint(s)

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Ill just repost this.
I wish vehicles werent so easy to paint

Just done my priming on:

10 BA Death Company and DC dread
BA Librarian
30k Ahriman which I'm painting because it was cheap and I like the model
Standard Chaos Lord
Discworld miniature I'm painting for a friend's birthday
Resin bases for my BA tac squad I finished recently

I've finally done a priming session without turning my hand completely black.

My resin Chainaxes for my 30K World Eaters came today, that I got from Anvil Minis, so cheers to the Anon who recommended them a few threads ago, they look breddy gud so I got about 20.

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Here's my army. Got over 2000 points of Guard with pretty much all of it painted.It feels good anons.please no bully about unpainted Scions just bought them and put them together

Also how much Ironcrust do you need to get the cracked earth effect? I feel like either I smear too much on or not enough. Please help.

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>>50708794
Thanks!

The cloak (GW colours)

Mechanicum + Black
Mechanicum
Mechanicum + Celestra
Celestra

With Nuln done as an early wash and then painted into the recesses. The combination priming was helpful for highlight placement and as an undercoat.

The beard is Celestra washed with Sepia and then highlighted with Ulthuan.

>>50709112
You need a thicc layer of the cracking paints, like scooping them on instead of painting. That board looks pretty nice.

>>50708816
I did not know he had tutorials for them. I will check those out post haste

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>>50708673
>>50708640
>>50708608
>>50708545
>>50708494

I can't blame the phone camera on this one it's just the lighting here is really bad today, thick heavy overcast with no sunlight, trying to take an ambient picture and it all went a bit wrong.

Lets try take 2.

Unfortunately I think it's the opposite now and is too bright. Goddamn winter weather.

>>50709061
Glad you like them.

>>50709254
This is better.

I think that spear guy could do with the eye on his spear getting the gem treatment, that's a lot of gold out there with no blue or green to balance it. Similarly the staff on leaping guy.

Like the way you've got the energy under leaping dude, and don't forget the pages of his book.

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got me some forge world deathwing termie pads
just in time to go with my spacehulk conversions
ordered some icons and bitz as my bitz box has been thoroughly raided

>>50709202
Thanks friendo. Would you recommend the texture paint scoop too? I heard a bit of sprue can work for it.

>>50709348

Like a lot of GW's tools (but not their knife) if money is no object, go for it. I got one because I try to buy something every time I'm in, whether it's a couple of paints or whatever.

If you've got a dead craft knife then you can scoop it with that, a lolly stick, a bit of sprue.

Tip for the texture paints (via my local's manager) for anyone doing a massive area that's going to take an entire pot at once: saw the pot in half and work from the halves, it's the only way to get every last drop.

>>50709254
I want an ultrabeakiemarine so bad

>>50709379
>Tip for the texture paints (via my local's manager) for anyone doing a massive area that's going to take an entire pot at once:

Better tip: Buy the crackling paint in 200ml pots from Vallejo or any other company that sells that stuff in large containers.

>>50707459
question since you are assembling the same models. how do you glue the arms on the marines without the bolters? Not physically but how do you guarantee a fit?
If I just glued on the two arms I would most likely fuck it up and the gun wouldn't sit right, so I glued the bolter to one arm and assembled like that.

>>50709988

probably just eye measurement, but you can just dryfit the bolter or attach it with bluetac.

>>50709988
When I do it I use superglue on the bolter then just snap it off.

>>50710017
I use superglue but I'm afraid I'll break plastic if I try to snap something off

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Got a game coming up soon-ish, so I decided to put my other projects on hold and give an old friend a fresh coat of paint.

He's almost seventeen years old!

>>50710035
And anons call my ultras old-school. Love it.

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>>50708220
Never seen the ogre here, but if i had a warhound you all will be seeing pictures of him for a month. The khorne model trend was because it was a cheap, nice model.
If you are going to make more of those trees try to use more cable and make more branches.

>>50709337

Thanks, yes, these lads are not fininished.

I tend to base my stuff once most of the things I'm happy with are done even though it's not 100% finished as it allows me to get a feel for how its going to look overall.

there's more work to be done on these lads (for one their huge powerpacks + cloaks), the book on leaping guy

Lighting on their crimson cloaks, and their staves need work as you say as it just a lot gold right now.

>>50708041
That's a fucking great idea!

Nice base as well.

>>50707384
>empirical
So some dude on the street orders me to post? What a heretic.

>>50707906
>get a 10mm pistol
>fire into plastic.

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90% done with my Solitaire here. I really like how his color scheme came out.

Does anyone know where I can get some good human slave models? I wanted to get some to go with a Dark Eldar themed table, and the official ones are kind of lacking, especially when it comes to variety.

What's a good kit to get for 28mm/heroic female conversion fodder besides Witch (A)Elves/Sisters of Slaughter?

I'm not to worried about head or hair sculpts, mostly care about body proportions.

Help would be greatly appreciated. The GW website often crashes my tablet's browser, and I tried googling third-party but only found metal conversion parts sellers instead of full plastic kits.

>>50710905
Every time you post this I try to think but there are sadly very few. You could try the sisters of the thorn, but they're all mounted.

OOP Sigmarite Sisters on ebay are pretty nice.

What is your project? It would be helpful to know what you want to make, because male bodies can be used for a lot of projects, especially in armour.

>>50710900
Hasslefree has lots of semi-clothed and nude women.

Brother Vinni has some lewd slave girls too.

>>50711038
What about men who looks like they are doing forced labor as well? I want to go for prisoners of war that they are forcing to do shit largely for entertainment. Thanks for the tips though, I will need to look at those.

>>50709988
I just dryfit the bolter and adjust the arm posing while the glue between the arm and torso is drying. It can be kinda fiddly but as long as you're not too rough with it I've found it ensures the best result.

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>>50708378
And he's done. Fun little project and a nice break from power armour.

>>50711009
I have a multitude of female small projects, but I'm mostly lacking in feminine-sized arms and torsos to work with.

The fewer things like large sleeves and cloaks to have to work around, the better. Like, the GW woodelves basic archer set is good for torsos, but limbs have too much stuff on them and not a lot of non-bow arms.

I don't quite need nude, but the less clothes and accessories, the better for me to sculpt over (or carve away accessories)where I need.

Can't do eldar, since those space elf amazons are as tall or taller than Marines.

>>50711102
Nice, that from the GW LoTR stuff?

>>50711251
It's the new(ish) sculpt for The Hobbit, yeah.

It's a minor miracle in that it doesn't look like he's suffering an allergic reaction to bee-stings in the face, but on the other hand it's finecast and the mold lines are a bitch.

>>50711307
If it was easy it wouldn't feel as rewarding to complete. ;) well done m80

>>50711242
>since those space elf amazons are as tall or taller than Marines
Witch elves are as tall, if not taller than eldar. As an example, the death hag is about a head taller than a space marine in the patented space marine squat.

But anyways the sorceress bits in the dark elf black dragon kit might be something to look at. Legs aren't much use, but the arms and torsos are basically naked.

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My last work was fixing up the Fortress of Elegance. It had lost some bits - some permanently - during its 10 year tour of duty in the FLGS display case, from where it got sent to various missions without my knowledge or consent, like a 1 year stint in a cultural history museum and some sort of video report on gaming.

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>>50711344
The nubs on top of the sponson turrets were gone completely, so I replaced them with spare smoke launchers. Luckily my custom mixed lavender paint hasn't dried out in 10 years.

>>50711358
Pretty Marine allies?

>>50707926
Sweet turret

>>50711368
Yeah. Someday I'll paint the actual Pretty Marines, too.

>>50708068
Bummersaurus rex.

>>50710841

>90% done
>More like 45% done

You got the basics done, that being said, you have all the right colors on all the right areas (no spilling) which is a great start. But you need to ad some shade, because otherwise this model will only look flat, especially the white. After shade, start with your highlights, and finish with some fine edge highlights. Ad a tad of weathering if thats your thing (at least put some dust on those shoes).

But it is a great start, _Ill give you that!

>>50711322
I've yet to see any Witch Elves/SoS in person, so I assumed they were similal normalish height to other WHFB elves. I take the marine powersquat in mind when I consider model height, as when not in squat they are notably taller. I also take toe-extenders into consideration, like on Witchelves and Herliquins, since I'd be removing those.

I'll throw some bits from the blackdragon into my shopping card at bitzbox, but that's not exactly a great kit for buying to get a load of conversion fodder.

Thanks for your help, by the way.

Hi guys, /r/inging the Everchosen painting guide. Its not in the links in OP's.

Can anyone help an anon out?

>>50711447
Eh, he colored everything within the lines, that's the hard part. Edge highlighting and a wash are 10 minutes' work.

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>>50711453
>I assumed they were similal normalish height to other WHFB elves
So did I, but scale creep hit the newer elf models kinda hard. They're head and shoulders above normal humans, which may or may not be a good thing depending on what you want to do with the models.

>>50709112
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzkFgRTOWZA

>>50710035
Love it, classic 3rd/4th ed and would love to see that across the table from me.

>>50711242
What about Victoria miniatures or other Not-Guard sellers who have some females in their range?

>>50711661
as a newer-fsg than most. What makes these classic 3rd/4th edition style ultramarines? The white heads on the termies? The chevrons?

>>50711597

Elves are bigger than humans, but I don't think they're supposed to be THAT big. Space Marines are about the size of a normal human or slightly bigger since humans are bigger than they should be in GW scale.

>>50711713
White instead of gold and red weapons for the most part.

>>50711740
ah, fair enough. Thanks.

>>50711726
>Space Marines are about the size of a normal human or slightly bigger since humans are bigger than they should be in GW scale.

Or maybe Space Marines are just to small? (There is just not ONE scale for all GW things)

That elf is fine in my opinion. Its just that everything in AoS is bigger these days. Those standard Blood Reaver barbarians are bigger than Space marines too.

>>50711713
The colours are very saturated with really stark blacklining, yellows are used instead of metallic golds and bolters have red casings. Classic af.

>>50711770
>Its just that everything in AoS is
Cauldron of blood was a 7e fantasy release, man. Give me a minute to find a regular human, you'll see how silly the size difference is.

do you assemble then paint or paint then assemble

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>>50711523

hahaha well thats a joke if I ever saw one.
On the other hand, it all depends on what your aiming to get out of this hobby I supposed.
Hell, for all I know, you could be one of those who just buys a can of "dip" from the army painter and tries to set a new speed record with a 4/10 tabletop quality.
The hard part is to re-do most colors up to about where he wants them AFTER wash. To blend the colors so that it looks natural. To get that black not to look flat, yet still not look grey.

How do you think pic related would look without shades or highlights, and do you think this guy painted him all flat and said "Finally! Only 10 more minutes to go!"... Git gut anon, git gut!

>>50711813
Yes.

>>50711804
I know, but as i said, the elf is fine. There is literally no reason at all that an elf needs to be the same size as a human.

Besides, the Elf is from Fantasy, the Marine is 40k. Both are roughly 28mm heroic scale, but thats it. "28mm" is not a proper scale at all. GW doesn't scale their miniatures anyway, just look at their tiny tanks.
In most cases you get lucky because the sizes are close enough so conversions of different races/factions work, but overall there is no reason to believe everything GW does has the same scale.

>>50711813
Depends on the model.
Some are easier to do in sub-assemblies.
Some are easier to do as a whole.

>>50711790
This. No fancy modern painting techniques and a certain color scheme. They just scream "classic".

>>50711865
>In most cases you get lucky
They keep their ranges in scale with one another deliberately, you know. It's not accidental.

>>50708911
If your looking for more of a challenge you could do something more with the dozer blade. You could also do some squadron markings. Or you could give the gunner a brighter uniform so he pops a bit more.

>>50711945
Most of the time they do..

>>50711855
Anon, you have no chill

Take a breath get up from your computer and take a short walk.

Dude posts a model he's proud of you dismiss his efforts, someone disagrees and you accuse him of 'dipping'

That's a heinous accusation

L2Chill

>>50711855
It would look almost as good in 10% of the time. Don't be buttsaveged that modern collectors can get similar results faster using clever techniques and good use of the tools available rather than grinding it out like it's some sort of special achievement to do things the hard way. it's not, it's just retarded. Go collect a million warthog tails in WoW or something.

>>50711855

>I am a huge sperg with a shredded gaping anus

I'd tell you to see a proctologist but he's just going to tell you the same thing I am: stop taking it from black guys wearing inside out rape-axe condoms.

Stupid naive question here: how exactly do you put transfers on models?

Bought a Blood Bowl team that came with a sheet, and I've just realised that, in all my years of painting, I've never once used a transfer.

What's the best way of using them?

>>50712384
You use water and then matte varnish

>>50712384
>Get a breakfast bowl with warm water
>Get a sharp knife

Apply satin or gloss varnish to the place on the miniature where the decal should be.

Let it dry

Cut the desired decal out of the transfer sheet as neatly as you can without damaging it.

Drop it into the bowl of water and let it swim inside for like 40 seconds

Take a bit of water on a brush and moisten the surface on the mini with the gloss coat on it

Take the decal out of the bowl. It should "swim" on the top of the background paper now.

Use your finger, tweezers or a brush to shove it onto the miniature and into position there

Use a q-tip or a dry brush to soak the excess water away and let the decal dry

Once dried, apply a coat of decal fixer and after that a coat of matte varnish.

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MTO Daemonettes just arrived

the first time working with metal for quite some time. Scare of missing mouldlines intensifies

>>50712384
Start with a painted, gloss varnished model. Cut out the transfer you need and put it in water for a minute or so. The "sticker" will get loose and start sliding off the backing paper. Get it out of the water before this happens, just as it starts to curl a bit. Put the backing paper against the spot where you want the sticker and slide it off the paper onto the model with a brush. As long as there's a bit of water between the model and the sticker, you can adjust its position. Then drain the water with a dry brush until the sticker is set. If working on a curved surface, you might get creases in the sticker. You can melt the sticker material down with Micro Sol or Micro Set, which are made specifically for this. The sticker melts and deposits the pigment straight to the model. Not necessary unless you get obvious creases. Once everything is completely dry, cover with another layer of gloss varnish. Matt varnish to taste.

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right ones nihilakh still needs some work but besides that almost done. or am i, any suggestions

now starts the part that i hate.
body is ready and now you have to paint all those magnetized weapons.
carnifexes are the worst, yay i finished it now to finish all those 50 sets of talons and weapons.

>>50712561
I never magnetized my tyranids because of that. Fuck painting a thousand spare arms. I'll just take the less flexible army.

Get some heraldry on those shields, m8

>>50712561
>>50712615
Just paint them one by one as you need them?

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>>50712683
nah if i let them be i think that i have tons of unpaited shit to do and then i end up painting nothing at all

>>50707314

http://blackhandpainting.blogspot.com/2016/11/kingdom-death-stone-effect-tutorial.html

1) Sans the crack effects, which he says takes real skill to pull off, how hard is this to cock up as an absolute beginner.
2) I may want to strip the models and repaint them if/when I get better: do the preferred methods of cleaning paint from HIPS (soap and water or some kind of 99 cent store green cleaner, apparently) damage the plastic with repeated use, or would I want to strip the model and repaint it only when I *know* I can do it well?

>>50713858

The thing with Kingdom Death Minis is that they take quite a bit of skill just to assemble. I would hold off on painting them till you had some practice, as there are a lot of fragile fiddly bits that might get damaged with repeated stripping.

>>50713858

If you're worried about that stuff, I'd recommend buying some cheapo test models to practice the technique before committing to your nice ol' KD:M stuff.

>>50713909
>>50713922
Thanks, I have like eight months to git gud before the core arrives.

>>50713937
Exactly. Have you painted at all before or are you totally new?

>>50713937

With 8 months you could reach a pretty decent level of competency if you dedicate yourself to practice. Getting okay at mini painting isn't really that hard. Prime -> basecoat -> ink wash -> highlights will give you pretty okay looking minis even before you turn to the more advanced techniques.

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>>50712481
>got email today telling me mine are in the mail

I've been waiting for this day for years. Finally my legion will be complete.

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>>50709988

>>50709988

I had to do this:

1. Glue bolter to right arm.
2. Glue/hold bolter arm to model
3. Immediately hold left arm to model so it lines up
4. Make sure bolter arm dries in that position, and you can take off the left arm.

The left arm glues on easy once bolter arm is on.

>>50709988
I use a very tiny bit of superglue and then pop the bolter off after. Never had plastic break doing that.

Realised recently, that despite collecting CSM for 4 years the only model I'm happy with is my DP - due to my impatience I painted all my stuff sloppily and ended up repainting them 1-2 times and still disliking them. So I started repainting everything for good this time - actually trying to make them look great... Oh my fucking god is it overwhelming...

Any tips on painting a lot of stuff successively and not going insane? Decided to go with painting in 5s, not 10s like I normally did.

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>>50707314
Here's my company champion kitbashed from bitz.
Gonna use the rules for a Lone Wolf, because fuck yeah 2W EW FnP Fearless. They often do surprisingly well considering they can only have 2 fenrisian wolves as squad mates and no transport.

>>50714623

I sometimes take it down to just 3 or even 2 models but just going by 5 and taking as long as you need to seems to work. It'll get done eventually. You can speed things up by forcing yourself to do at least one step a day otherwise you might go "well Im going fuckin slow anyway" and end up procrastinating for months.

>>50714623

I'm painting my stuff successively and not going insane...albeit very slowly. I manage to do one guy a night, as batch painting is fucking horrifying (in my mind). Sucks all the life out of painting. I like to do one guy at a time, but that's just my recommendation.

>>50714749
I do one guy at a time too.

It goes slowly, but at least I'm in no hurry to play, and I make little stories on my head for each of my Bitter Boys. Every scrape and bullet mark has its story in my head, since I'll spend like 3 hours, sometimes more, on and off on a single dude.

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Painted the first bash of cultists for a possible alpha legion project
Nothing fancy since I'll need a horde of them

>>50714623

Approach it one model at a time, from nicest stuff (HQs, Elites, etc) down to the stuff you care less about (cultists, troops). Don't think about it as an army, just making each single model look good. Though this problem is why I'm ultimately happier painting D&D minis than armies.

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>>50714924

>mfw people think 3 hours to 1 day per figure is slow

>>50715045
This. It depends on size and other factors, but to lovingly go over a HQ you can easily spend more time than that.

>>50715068
I managed two tacticals in roughly that (minus bases) like a week ago, but yeah, I'd anticipate at least 6 hours on an individual mini that I care about.

Whenever I get the urge to assemble and paint some miniatures I just check out this thread and immediately postpone it to next year.

Got some unopened chaos warriors I bought back in winter of 2008.

>>50715045
>tfw took a week of 4 hours a day to make a single goblin
>tfw i turn and see my grey sea

Duncan or Wargamer?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0idifJANDAI

vs


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKNCr9z1oQs


Who does the better job?

>>50708911
You should do something with the weapons. They look like plastic.
Give them a wash and then a highlight.

>>50715152
Oi, stop that. Get your butt in there and build some stuff

>>50715152
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1saRjbWOQLc

I don't know how /wip/ feels about Uncle Adam, but his message about not getting discouraged is pretty solid. Stop insisting that you must be as good as the best right away, do what you can and we can guide you to the level you want to achieve.

>>50715200
>tfw I paint just as slow
>tfw try to avoid grey tide syndrome by keeping everything sealed
>tfw I turn and see a stack of unopened boxes
>tfw I turn the other way and all I have is a couple of painted squads that took years

Hold me.

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>>50715152
...postpone it because you see people's first paintjobs or postpone it because you see nice stuff that you think is beyond you?

Either way, you're going to die before you paint those warriors if you don't start sometime, so I leave you with the inspiring words of asiatic clam man.

>>50710137
You should wait for your coats of paint to dry before you apply more paint.
Patience pays off

>>50715315
Postpone because of flashbacks from making a mess with glue, colors, plastic shavings and having to wear a respirator because cant paint outside during winter.
I think I killed off entire clusters of braincells during my teenage years when I glued and painted in a room with bad ventilation because I didnt know better and had no access to the internet.

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The best way to paint loads of things and progress at a steady rate is to have a routine.
Every night I finis working at my desk at about 8, by the time I'm done eating, cleaning and putting everything in place it's 9.
I then paint for an hour, and go to the gym at around 10.

This way I painted more in the past 3 months than I did in 2 years. It's also important to set yourself some small objectives, like doing all the basecoats on this model tonight, tomorrow it'll be washes and the base, and the day after the highlights, etc.

>>50711770
but the blood reaver are the same size as old school fuck old marauders

>>50715497
come at me!

>>50709341
how shitty was it to get all the BA iconography off? i was thinking about this but they just looked too coated in gewgaws

Lincoln anon I just put your secret santa package in the mail, you probably won't get it by christmas and for that I apologize! Busy season at work

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>>50715494
Well you know now, you know that brush primers and airbrushes exist, you know that ventilation and other ways of minimizing solvent exposure exist... so get going if you think you'll enjoy painting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo-z1gqzJMA

Here's a video tutorial on how to paint those warriors that's aimed at beginners, and here's what the first model that Duncan (the guy in the video) ever painted looked like.

The journey of a thousand miles starts with painting a single miniature.

>>50715652
Thanks.
Also that photo brings back BAD flashbacks lel

Secret santa question - any Brits post anything to the USA? (using standard international) Did it arrive yet? How long did it take?

Black primer vs grey primer?

>>50715497
Got a build log first but when I get to painting I'll need a break at some point. Rollin!!

>>50715752
grey is more safe, black is for painting all dark colors on your mini, just like how white is better for painting bright colors.

>>50715652
Can someone analyse what went wrong with his old marine?
Like what are the mistakes he made there?

>>50715818
>unthinned
>beginner hands cant hold steady
>probably only one large brush

>>50715818
He was probably around 7 years old.

i need ideas, i want to convert a counts as inquisitor karamazov without using dreadnaut bits. i'm thinking just having a bigass duder instead(like maybe a converted stormcast or ogryn or something? something to fit the statline), but ideas welcome.

>>50714924
I love them anon. They're almost the same colors i wear every day (black/electric blue) but still subtle

>>50708281
It has the potential to, yeah but it may come in handy in the right situation (I'm impatient and I'm usually using it in a spot that won't be seen so I melt the shit out of some plastic and break/cut off the melty spots). Like the other anons have said, most come with a variable speed and you can avoid it. I'm not sure how well resin conducts heat in the same way using one on a metal figure does, may cause the entire piece to heat enough to become malleable in some parts.
Dremels do their job primarily through speed while getting through tougher materials will benefit from the use of an actual drill. For instance, pewter minis need the torque to actually get the bit do bite into the material and a dremel tends to only get progress when it begins to melt it. Metal also tends to get stuck in rivets of the drill bit much faster with much less depth achieved than an actual drill.

>>50715818
>Can someone analyse what went wrong with his old marine?

Yeah, he can https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/14/my-first-model-part-1-our-own-duncan-rhodes/

>>50714694
Looks horrid tbqh

>>50715818
same problem basically every kid painting has

too much paint on the brush

>>50715497
Rollan for something cool to convert my leftover marines into

>>50715752
Black primer with zenithal white >>50709185

>>50715525
HOSPITALARS. I accept this duty. somoe screencap this.

>>50715895
because? Help him out instead of just shitting on it.

>>50715934
>Scythes of the Emperor, small chapter credited as first to land in Tau space during Damocles crusade
>Main army is Tau
>Giant Power Scythes to distract me from no melee
/wip/ please... no, i cant handle it.
Only thing stopping me is dirty Ultramarine genes

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>>50715964
Gotchu famalam.

>>50710035
Based af

>>50716059
The scythes od the Emperr are embroiled with the Tyrannids as of now. Lost most of their chaper and are trying to rebuild.

There's a novel about their inception coming, from Goulding, and a short story about them going into a hive ship IIRC.

>>50715979
Why don't you instead of being a fucking white knight nonce.

It looks horrid, I don't have to explain why or spoon feed how to build a good looking model.

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>>50716059

Come on NERD you know you want to do it! Bawk bawk chicken!

>>50714694
Sorry to say that, but the axe is just too big, especially held like that. Also not a fan of the wolf head. Love the little details dangling from the armor and the icon atop the backpack tho

This guy is doing it wrong, isnt he?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PAslAsYn7YI

I dont think thats how you use weathering powder.

>>50716128
why are you even here

>>50716128

le epic reply bro, die in a fire!

>>50716237

Of course it is. What, do you think all weathering powder has to be applied as a wash? The dry method is probably by far the majority of how it's used. Then it's either sealed with varnish, drip sealer via pipette, or simply left unsealed as a display piece.

>>50716295
To look at people's work and comment if I like it or not.

I didn't like his, and it appears to have hurt your feelings. Do you need a hug? What about a mug of hot cocoa? Everything will be ok anon.

>>50715734
That is St. Duncan's very first model. View it as inspiration that anyone can improve.

>>50716349
I'm not the guy you replied to first, I just think you're retarded

>>50716237
There are lots of different ways to use weathering powders.
you can brush it on or pile it on to add texture, you can use it before or after putting down a fixer.
You can rub and smear it and do whatever.

So no, I don't know what exactly would constitute 'wrong' use of pigments really.

>>50716372
Think what you want, that's the beauty of this place. I'm not going to start crying because you expressed an opinion.

>>50716349

uh oh Lads. Coldsteel himself has decided to pay us a visit, things are going to get "psssh nothin personal kid" for a while. Bare that in mind when you get your edgy responses

>>50716349
>Everything will be ok anon.

Why would you just lie like that?

>>50716421
I'd rather you just fuck off if you're gonna post useless shit desu

>>50716349
>To look at people's work and comment if I like it or not.
You know wether you like it or not mean jack shit if you don't give a reason for it.
This is commonly called constructive criticism.

Without the reasoning for your judgment, there is no way to determine how to improve on it, or even wether to take it into account at all.
Because sometimes people just like different things and the very thing you were trying to do is something somebody else doesn't like.
Not taking criticism is something you have to learn as well.

Anyway this is kindergarten tier stuff, nobody should need have explained to them, especially in wip where people go to get feedback in the first place.

Anyone know a good guide for weathering using oil paints?

>>50716457
Unfortunately not anon. Especially when it's this easy to farm (you)s

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Painted the black parts, added some decals. Next will be all the silver bits. Should I pick out all the rivets in silver? Would probably make it pop.

>>50716549
Youre going to edge highlight it, right?

Is there any miniature that was improved by weathering ever?

>>50716549
just put a drop of holy agrax or nuln oil around each rivet

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>>50716625

Probably some boring marine model with tons of blank spaces got better with chipping. Even regular fags like pic related don't look WORSE from the weathering.

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>>50716479
I first apply a gloss / semi gloss coat to the model, if the surface is rough you'll have a hard time working with the oil. Aside from oil washes(Oil paint and turpanoid) which you can tint any color you want for whatever weathering effects, I also am a huge fan of AK Interactive streaking grime paints. You just paint them on where you want them and then use turpanoid to play around with them, take it off, smear it, streak it, whatever. The gloss coat is nice because as long as the model is sealed you can remove anything you do with enough thinner, can literally take it all off and start over, its very forgiving. Heres a tank I painted in this way, I wanted it to look like it had been rolling through a sewer.

>>50716625
Anything ork related.

>>50716611
I think I'll do the black, not sure about the grey. I plan on heavily weathering it. It'll have burn marks, chips, scratches, really want it to look like its rolled through hell and back.

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>>50716625

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>>50716625
almost everything is improved by weathering, but it depends on your painting style.

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My Engineers for Guild Ball

>>50716910
>Engineers
>not playing Fishermen

Get a load of this landlubber.

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>>50716928
>Playing Fish
>Not blowing up things and attempting to reignite the war
Look at this dummy

>>50716675
Thanks anon, good tips.

>>50716675
gloss?

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>>50716955
I use this type of Pledge through my airbrush, it used to be Pledge with Future Shine. Its a great product, makes a nice gloss coat for decals and weathering, and can also be used to make washes.

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Doing minor conversions to make Heresy Era Thousand Sons

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>>50717215

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>>50717227
Heads and kopesh are recast from the scarab occult kit. They are almost a dead ringer for mkiv heads

>>50716625
Depends, anything Empire and Ork related looks good, for Tau and Eldar I prefer crisp as fuck though

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I took the weathering a bit further.
Hows it looking now?

>>50717125
>nice

You mean best on the market. There is no acrylic gloss product that gives as glossy or smooth a coat as Pledge. It is every airbrusher's holy grail.

>>50707926
make sure not to apply force with sharp things, if you have to at least do it in a safe direction. almost had to the hospital cause i was bleeding so bad. dont make the same mistakes i made anon, its only sort of worth it.

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I also did the same thing to the old one
i think it looks ok now

>>50714694
I've had pretty good luck with Lone Wolves as well but I usually put them in termie armor, how has the claw and axe been working out for you? The axe looks just a tiny bit too big but other than that I think pretty cool.

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Working on a couple kroot hounds while i try to come up with Gue'vesa color schemes.. i really do like these models.

>>50717125
Why would you use gloss instead of matt for weathering or any vehicles?

>>50718383
Gloss finish has a very smooth surface, which makes washes and fluids in general flow much more smoothly.

Matte finish has a very rough surface in order to reflect less light, which also means any washes will have a harder time flowing into any crevasses, as there's nothing to help them do so.

Usually, after washes/decals are dry, the whole thing is then given a message coat to bring down the shine and set the layers underneath.

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Dark Angels novitiate John Rambo is complete

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>>50707384
this guy here. phone died as i tried to take a better photo. copying the style from the painting guide with a few alternations, i tried my first ever attempt at freehanding anything. it looks better in the picture then in real life, though. i was thinking of using guilleman blue glaze to hopefully blend out the little fuckups, but what do you guys think?

>>50717672
those lenses look great.

>>50707237 this was just a preliminary test to see if I got the mold right I used the cheap clay so as to not waste to my green stuff also which milliput do you use? I may have gotten the idea to do this from your Tempest Scion if you are indeed the person I am thinking of

>>50712891
wtf how many arms does that have/how do the wings attach? i like the bone/carapace bits though.

>>50715497
rollan

>>50712891

That shit looks like a JRPG optional boss.

>>50712891
Honestly I'm just impressed the tail is strong enough to hold that all up.

>>50718804
I didn't know but damn, you are right. Those are some nice lenses.

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Hey guys, new to painting minis in general, but would anyone know how to go about getting that kind of "Covered in ash" look on minis? Kinda like Pic related in Dark Souls 3, how everything is just covered in that white ash, I love that look as it makes things feel extremely ancient.

>All these assembled models
>below freezing and can't prime quickly

Fuck me

>>50717215
I spy with my little eye a War Sphinx

Any chance you're casting them sexy rotor cannons?

How well do 1/35 models scale with 40k? What's the optimal scale for non-GW stuff?

>>50719161
drybrushing with light brown or grey

>>50719363
Depends on what you are after
28mm roughly translates to 1:50. So 1:35 figures are much taller. Because we are also dealing with heroics certain accessories like gas canisters and weapons can look right on a 28mm figure too cause they have huge hands and weapons.

Generally speaking 1:50 and 1:48 or 0 scale if you are dealing wiht model trains is gonna be approximately right in terms of scale, but will have more delicate details.

However the vehicles in 40k are somewhat undersized anyway.

So mix and match.
Exposed interiors and open seats usually call for 1:35 stuff, tanks or larger vehicles work in the smaller scales too.

>>50719486
>28mm roughly translates to 1:50
1:56 that is

>>50719501
>>50719486
Neat, thanks.

>>50719486
1:48 figures definitely work. In Bolt Action you see a lot of people using 1:48 tanks because they actually look more in place than the official tanks, which look like clown cars in comparison to most of the guys.

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2 questions, /wip/
First, how many layers of matte varnish are enough to seal down a transfer? Will one coat do it, or should I go for two?
Second, how much gloss is too much gloss?

>>50719621

One coat should be fine. And although annoying for your second question te answer is 'it depends'. Usually one coat is fine, but sometimes two if you were painting something you want to look super wet or oily

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>>50716663

>>50715497
Rollan for something to paint tonight while I wait for putty to harden on some conversions

Can I make him Deathwatch?

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Sudden rainstorm dashed any and all attempts to spray prime some models, so I built some much needed cover for a friend's board. Each one is fairly big, measuring about 11.25in (~28.5cm) across each of the front sides and has ~60 square inches of wiggle room on the second story.

Hopefully this cover will accommodate all the models and armies who'll play on the board. We have a nasty problem with the current cover where almost all the big 'nid uglies can't fit in it.

Hopefully this one works a lil bit better.

>>50719838
great work for cardboard man, i reckon terraining is as fun as modelling

>>50719486
1:35 is about 1inch taller than 28mm. Its very noticeable on the board.

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Working on my Scions after close to two years of procrastinating. Progress so far, been batch painting 18 of them at once. Thoughts?

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Used some GW texture paint for the first time today to base my Acolytes. I think it came out pretty well, though I fear the mud doesn't go great with my more colorful paint scheme. What should I go over it with to help fix that?

>>50720458
mud is good for a colourful scheme because it sets off the colours. the base should complement the model, which it does. that being said, give it a wash of nuln, agrax or camoshade, then a drybrush of something like screaming skull if you want it to look the best it can.

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>>50720458
Here's a pic of all the ones I did. Didn't do the full squad cause I realized I forgot to paint the rocks on some and it would be harder with the basing done.

>>50715652
How do we know Duncan didnt just paint this the other day and post it as a "see, you can do it!" type of thing

>>50720418
>after close to two years of procrastinating

Brother!

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Work progresses, pins are fun, got some components for making a ghetto drill arriving in the post. I haven't decided yet whether to magnetize the weapon arms or pin them straight through, or a combination of both.
>really impressed by how strong pinning makes something, the head has 3 sunk 2mm rods about half a cm into the ball joint and I can hold up the entire torso by it without any give

Really want to recast a unique count as army.

>>50708494
Any tips how did you make those green gems and lenses?

>>50719621
You should always be applying gloss before and after decals.

Matte before tends to make the film more visible and matte after runs the risk of fogging the decal.

>>50715497
rock n rollin

besides a steady hand, any tips on painting quartered shoulder pads? I've cannot seem to get the hang of it!

>>50715497
fukket

>>50721066
When I did them in the past, I'd start with the tip of my brush slightly off-center. When the brush pushed against the shoulder pad, it'd even the difference out with the width of the stroke.
It's 2 AM and I'm not sure I'm explaining this well. Does that make sense?

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Goddamn I love DG. They're a joy to paint because you can get away with massive wash patches, uneven colouring etc.

Anyway these guys are done, bar highlights and basing.

has anyone tried using real blood to add viscera to their models?

>>50721211
Heard it dries dark brown. Also, cow's blood smells bad in warm environments.

>>50721211
>inb4 jizz paint for slaanesh army

>>50721211
most blood dries to a light brown, so it wouldn't be that great, it would just look like someone got light shit splattered on them.

Got an offer of $50 on my SoB Seraphims. 7 total models, including Celestine "The Living Saint"... Should I sell?

>>50721434
No.

>>50721211
they have a paint for it, if you wanted a blood effect.
in case you didnt know.
the only other reason i could think of is you have a large amount of blood lying around?
if it's your own blood, i suggest making a blood qu'ran, like saddam did.

>>50714694
>>50714703

Wow holy fuck. I post this before bed and wake up to a good old fashion flame war!

In honesty it is way over the top. I threw it together from the spare bitz left over in my SW upgrade sprue. Originally had a normal axe, but then when I harvested a dreadnought force weapon to make that Crozius, I had the head of the halberd and thought "Fuck it, this is my executioner and he needs something really meaty to wave about and stand out on the board with."
Hence the xboxhuge axe was made.

Normally I try to do my conversions a bit more subtle, such as >>50707385 Which I know the sword arm is at a terrible angle, but this is the second Rune Priest with the robed body, bolt pistol arm and head with the same sword pointed up, so it's all I had to differentiate him.

>>50721830
I just cut myself with my hobby knife while cleaning up a piece, and just wondered how it would look but didnt want to smear blood all over something like a retard.

>>50722116
on that topic, i used blood for the blood god to bloody up a couple of white dice i had, and use them for DnD. i keep them in a little wooden velvet-lined box, and whenever my party (when i DM) are in a very difficult situation, i let them make a roll with the blood dice, which gets a big bonus to the roll, but..

at a cost.

>>50721160
These look fantastic anon. The glowing eyes really sets them off!

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>>50721160

>>50712066
>It would look almost as good in 10% of the time

Maybe if you're blind....

>>50715652
Good advice, but please don't airbrush without proper ventilation. You're still atomizing paint and it's still destructive even without all the additives aerosols add.

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Anyone recognize the parts for this? mostly wondering the head.

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>>50722414

>>50722494
If the foreman is a xeno, who do I report him to?

>>50722479
I'd almost say that the head is from a Kingdom Death : Monster armour kit, as those have a lot of very pretty female heads, another option would be Malifaux miniatures.

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My SoS test theme. that I'm gonna ally with my 13th company wolves

>>50720489
Skin looks flat, needs a highlight or a dark grey or something.

>>50715538
was fun! I loved scraping off blood drops
yeah still not finished
order various bitz to cover certain parts

Hey Anon from Spain! You SS gift is ready to get picked up at the post station.
I recommend you pick it up soon because i don't know how long they will keep it there.

>>50722561
>KD
I thought the heads would be much too big to use in 40k. GW does have kinda wonky proportions though. Mostly hoping someone recognized it, since It looks familiar.

>>50722700
KD is 32mm, but with realistic proportions, rather than Heroic 28mm like GW does.
As such, it probably lines up just fine

>>50722722
>but with realistic proportions
I feel like that should be appended to "MORE realistic proportions"

kingdom death's got a fairly wonky scale of its own

Noob here - quick question. What glue should I use to make plasticard stick to a model? Should i drop some green stuff between them? Doesn't feel like plastic glue works very well

>>50722779
okay, it's certainly not perfect, but a lot more realistic that anything GW throws around.

>>50722799
Plasticard to what? when in doubt, superglue, if its plastic-plastic, I'd try cement

>>50722722
>>50722779
>>50722805
Mostly the female stuff, I think, Its a shame because I love the monsters and most dudes, the hentai proportions for females are just so out of place on the same table :/

>>50722805
Right, but just about anything can seem realistic next to the heroic scale.

>>50722799
>>50722834
Specifically I want to bend a small piece around limbs to change the appearance of armor or such. Suppose I'll try superglue then

Why do people keep sayung that? The females also come in normal proportions you know. The modular armor kits makes both 'regular' men and women. The hentai pinups are optional fun pieces that don't have anything to do gameplay wise, you buy them because you like them

>blending purple on sue's cape
its a pain, but goddamn does it look good
pics tomorrow

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>>50722834
>Mostly the female stuff, I think, Its a shame because I love the monsters and most dudes, the hentai proportions for females are just so out of place on the same table :/

You're confusing the pinups with the female survivor sculpts.
Yes there's nothing too realistic about the pinup sculpts other than big booties and even bigger breasts.

The female survivors however look nothing like that, just check the ladies in the image attached.
The armour kit females are also fairly normal in proportion, but I don't have a composite image handy for those.

>>50722869
>The females also come in normal proportions you know.
the base game/armor set females, yes

>>50722479
is not one of them. Hell if I can remember exactly what sculpt it is, though. Largely because they keep fucking with the site and removing their older miniatures.

>>50722863
be very light <3

>>50722869
I'm not against hentai fun, its just weird to have them in the same game as great gritty monsters. though I guess that makes it closer to actual hentai -_-

>>50722905
See, just going through the store, I didn't realize there was a difference, obviously the pinup tag, but things like the cleric and witch disciples I assumed were just part of the game. Are those then just figures without rules attached and the expansion packs are the ones that actually add to it?

its nice to see some guycandy though

What on earth is the wait time for a citadel glaze to dry?, I applied a thin layer of blue and waited a hour and when I went to apply a second layer, the first layer came off with the brush.

>>50722964
Its gonna be awhile

>>50722964
it takes awhile

>>50722928
>See, just going through the store, I didn't realize there was a difference, obviously the pinup tag, but things like the cleric and witch disciples I assumed were just part of the game.
>Are those then just figures without rules attached and the expansion packs are the ones that actually add to it?

At present, anything not explicitly marked as an expansion on the store does not have game rules, other than a fun promo gear card or something on some of them.
Kingdom Death was a miniature company long before they did the game and it's the stuff that kept them in the black when KD:M blew its budget up.

Those pin-ups sell like mad.

The Cleric and other "generic class" sculpts like the Fighter, Wizard and Necromancer were a fun side project of Adam and Lokman Lam.
They're essentially pinup D&D miniatures. They are character archetype sculpts.

The Witch Disciples... now there's a pickle... The Flower Witch is a monster within the KD world, and one that could one day become an expansion.
Her Disciples would come with that in all likelihood. Again, as enemies, not survivors.
So in a way, that could be an exception to the usual rule that the normal humans in the game look normal.

Many of the monsters on the store may at one point get rules for the game, they're just not incorporated into the game yet.
The Wetnurse monster may be an exception, as it's a little too controversial, as is the Forge God probably.

>>50722981
>>50722985
2 hours? 3 how long?

>>50723024
shoot for 2, possibly 2 and a half if its a heavy layer

>>50723024
Last time I used a citadel glaze it took around 3 hours to completely dry

>>50723011
Ah, thanks, I've been considering them for a while, but they seem perpetually out of stock for most things, probably very limited production runs? I really like the reverse pinup they did of the twilight knight.

I ordered a chinaman one for dirt cheap on singles day, I'm expecting the quality to be shiiiiit, but at least he could pass as a grungy npc I think

>>50723028
>>50723029
Damn that's gay, I see why people buy the tint set to mix the paint in the pot.

>>50723033
Anything made of resin on the store usually has production runs of only 400 or 500 copies, 250 if it's very large model.
The first release run come with numbered certificates of authenticity and 4' x 6' art cards.
Those miniatures sometimes get an Encore run, which brings another couple hundred copies but lack the certificates.

Anything made of plastic (and as such is a recent release relatively speaking) is considered a "general release" and will generally restock semi-regularly with production runs usually being a 1000 units or so per restock.

>>50723033
And the Reverse Pinup Alison Twilight Knight (ie. a normal model based on the pinup version), has a plastic version.
So I would keep an eye out for restocks of her during events such as Gencon or during the seasonal sales (ie. Halloween, Black Friday and Christmas).

>>50723064
>>50723073
Alright, thanks! I'll keep an eye out next time I'm shopping and am good enough to do the figures justice , bought a good amount of infinity stuff, metal takes simple green baths much easier than resin anyway, slowly getting good.

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>>50708494

Anyone have that guide for black armour with brown highlights? Looking in the OP but can't find it.

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>>50723555
This one?

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New Thread

>>50723898

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I actually really like how this ice turned out. Didn't think painting over crackle paint would work this well.

>>50718968
>>50719088
dude i was just pointing out how i magnetize all the weapon options

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>>50723616
Based anon, may Duncan smile upon you.

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>>50722494
>>50722414

>>50723208
kek'd