WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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How does this look for a city rubble base for a Knight? There's be some random debris, rebars, bricks and whatnot as well, but this is the setup I'm thinking for the big pieces.

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Continuing my DBK repose, I've started to reputty and resculpt gaps and stuff and I'm quite happy with how it looks so far. Any thoughts before I completely glue everything down?

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>>50160823

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>>50160823
>>50160834

>>50160823
>Any thoughts before I completely glue everything down?
poser works very well.
Looking at the underside of the statues' faces from the front is kind of distracting to me though.

>>50160883
Agreed, It looks like it should tip over to the left and lay flat with the ground as soon as the dude steps on it.

>>50160778
Where are those pieces from?

>>50160923
Sanctum Imperialis from the IK: Renegade box.

>>50160904
>>50160883

Na, I'm not done with the base yet, I was gonna glue some more cork bits to make the flat bottoms look like cracks. These Scibor bases just stick out at really static 90 degree angles and I like a little fallen slant to them

>>50160778
Very similar to my friend's knight base we made for him when we split IK Renegade.

It works, do a roads under the other foot, so a rhino's width of no sand and paint a central reservation marking.

>>50160823
>>50160834
>>50160846
dope as fuck, anon!
really wish I had a KD mini, they are so damm detailed.

>>50160953
I was thinking the big square bits were the road, or some raised catwalk at least.

>>50160923
From churches

>>50160990
boooo

My first ever stuff arrives tomorrow (most likely), scared as fuck. I have 0 experience so I'm afraid I'll fuck it up.

Also, about how long does it take for the spray primer to dry? And how long for the base paint? Then the wash? I need to know how long to leave them for.

>>50161125
>scared of small plastic soldiers
I have bad news for you, anon
That's the hobby

>>50161125
>Also, about how long does it take for the spray primer to dry?

Varies with temp, humidity and thickness

>And how long for the base paint?

as above

>Then the wash?

as above

>I need to know how long to leave them for.
If you wait an hour and it doesn't look wet you'll be safe

>>50160977
They are more the floor of a building / courtyard.

>>50161125
Spray primer dries to the touch within 30 minutes. I'd leave it to cure for a few hours at least before painting on top of it.

Acrylic paints dry pretty fast. You can usually add another layer within 10 minutes.

Washes take a bit longer to dry depending on ow heavy you went. I'd give it an hour.


I suggest you take time to prep your models well, get them all ready to paint, then do it assembly line style. By the time you apply one color to all your models, the first ones will be dry and you can move on to the next color.

>>50161125
do as I did when I first started collecting and, in fact, still do

leave 'em grey
don't paint them
clear grey is better than fucked-up paintjob
paintjob can be either good or bad, put grey is faultless. yes, it is no good, but it is no bad either.

>>50161125
It all depends on the brands and how much you apply. Army Painter spray dries within a few minutes, so say 30 minutes to an hour to be sure before you can start painting.

Base paints should be dry within 30 minutes at the most. Washes depends a lot, mainly how much you apply. It could be ten minutes or an hour. But you will be able to tell when it's dry by looking at it most of the time.

>>50161152
I bet you leave the moldlines and sprue bits on them, too.

>>50161125
Forgot to mention, you should invest in a new blades for your xacto knife, a pair of micro flush cutters, and some basic files. Use toothpicks to apply the glue you're using so you have more control and dont end up with glue running all over the detailed bits.

>>50161180
no sprue bits, no, that's dirty
don't care about moldlines though

>>50161191
I wish I could not care. I've spent most of my free time the last 4 days scraping mold lines.

>>50161198
wow, your life is miserably
my minis are fabulous with their moldlines

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>>50161191
>don't care about moldlines though

>>50161215
I just want what best for my little genestealing children.

>>50161215
If you put half the effort into your army as you do defending your sloth on the internet they'd be done by now.

>>50161152

Not an option, I want them painted.
I'll never get better if I don't even try.

So guys, should I leave the primer for one night, then the base paint for an hour and then a second coat if it needs it? They're all citadel stuff if that helps.

>>50161240
oh I put plenty of effort enough. I assemble and convert new minis or make stuff out of leftover bits. moving forward is important. going back is only worth it when I improve an old conversion with new bits or disassemble a crappy old kitbash to salvage the bits

and that's a work that is never ever done, not until mini market completely dies out

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How'd I do?

>>50161258
Overnight should be more than enough. When applying bases and layers make sure you thin them out sufficiently and it wont take nearly an hour for it to dry to touch, but if you have the time to wait it wont hurt anything.

>>50161258
After priming, I'd leave them for a few hours. For paint brushing, 10-15min is enough, you'll see it on the mini though.

>>50161258
Also, what did you order anon?

>>50161319

Start collecting stormcast eternals + paints/tools/brushes.

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>>50160760
One Imperial Knight is too much.
Nearly 300cm of edge highlights, just end my life senpai

>>50161378
look at full-painted Titans and quit your whining

>>50161275
Not bad, but seems a little flat. You could probably benefit from a final highlight. Are the glossy parts near the horns and face because a wash wasn't dry yet?

>>50160595
Fabric with PVA is genius, that should give some nice texture. Searching shows plasticard is polystyrene, seems good as long as I don't do something dumb like letting it degrade to styrene.

The airdry itself cracking after a knock or during drying is the major concern, but with combining materials, the paper might work as a backbone. Maybe the airdry can fill gaps and cover seams. Thank you anon, I'm back to the experiment board, time to try making paperclay out of some crayola clay laying around.

>>50160658
Good call with gloves, sadly it's mostly carcinogens and inhalants I'm scared of. Cancer once is bad enough, especially with the neural effects chemo can have. I don't want it again.

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WIP.

The wash is oil paint, so I will clean up the messy bits with some mineral spirit. Get those lines nice and crisp.

Other than that, just need to do shoulder pads, decals, and weathering.

>>50161125
What did you order Anon?

Don't forget, we are here for you if you struggle with some things.

>>50162271
This
>>50161360

>>50161968
Looking crisp. Airbrushed, I suppose?

>>50160778
9/10
Lose one mark for not having a tiny church.

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>>50162417
I'm good with a 9.

>>50162448
If I could suggest anything it would be to add rubble where the walkway is broken and around the beams.

Has any of you guys experience with the fit of the old metal shoulder pads?

I found 15 ancient shoulder pads in my stash but when i was about to dry-fit them on some marines i noticed that they are to small, or the shoulders to big. Was that always the case?

Or is that an issue with newer generations of Space Marines? (I think i bought these metal bits in 2nd or 3rd edition, so the minis could be different in size these days)

>>50162712
Thanks. I was planning to do that. That picture was just dryfitting where I wanted the pieces to be, I've begun actually assembling the base now.

Show me how you drybrush without getting wet paint all over. There doesn't seem to be a point between "no paint on my brush" and "still liquid" for me.

Please.

>>50161968
Could you explain what you mean by using spirits to clean up the messy bits?

>>50162823
use a paper towel, not a palette

the paper towel will absorb some of the moisture

>>50162837
qtip with alcohol.

>>50162771
>2nd or 3rd edition
They're probably not made for modern Space Marine models then.

>>50162837
It means he performs a ritual, summoning the Spirits of Hse'fhf to clean up the paint that's spilled onto the clean surfaces. Many virgins are needed. Per model.

>>50162837
Oil paint can still be manipulated long after it has dried (days even) using thinner (artist grade white spirit).

Just put a tiny bit of thinner on the brush and wipe away the bits you want to clean up.

>>50162837
>>50162870

Basically this.
Keep in mind that if you wipe or rub to much you will rub off your paint underneath it with the white spirit.
To prevent that its recommended to seal the mini with gloss (!) varnish before doing anything involving enamel washes and once thats all done applying a matte varnish to get the shine away.
It can be done without, but its risky.

>>50162771
2nd edition marines had different shoulders.
Metal pads were always smaller though. Even on the 2nd edition marines.
Only got more obvious from then on.

Maybe you can work around it, by shaving a bit of the plastic shoulder off, and if necessary hide the asymmetry behind a purity seal or something like that.

>>50162900
>>50162870
Interesting, thanks.

>>50162900
Nah, I've never had any problem working with white spirit on unvarnished acrylic paint.

>>50162930
As i said, it can happen if you rub around with that stuff to much. Most likely not from removing a little bit of wash with a brush, but personally i'm rather on the save side. I use it for weathering stuff mostly though, so i rub around a bit more with q-tips.

>>50162920
Here is a tutorial if you want more details on this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlzQhDt4TNM

Its pretty simple actually.

>>50162866
>>50162919
Thanks. I'll scratch away a bit of the shoulder part then. Its will be invisible anyway.

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>>50160760
I haven't postet anything big since crossing the 1000 point mark on my army, so here's my next big thing: 70 zombies done and done. Only took me a few days, i think i'm getting the hang of this speed painting thing.

>>50160778
It'll look good enough with some sand on it. I'm honestly suprise i didn't see more meme-spewing trolls come out of the woodwork posting churches.

>>50161378
I'm with you anon, all the way. Big projects are always the worst projects, but by going all the way we make the tabletop a better place.

>>50161968
Looks damn near perfect already Anon. Weathering will make these guys look downright excellent!

>>50161275
If you were going for a look of abject horror, good job

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Got around to doing the slaughter priest from white dwarf. really like how valhallan blizzard works right out of the pot.

I don't have a palette, will an old plate work?
Or do I have to go out and buy one?

>>50163935
I use blister packs. Use whatever works for you.

>>50163935
Get a piece of top laminated tile

>my bretonnian paladin on foot arrived
Oh baby. I love the smell of paint stripper in the afternoon.

>>50163935
http://www.fullborerminiatures.com/articles/wetpalette.html

>>50163935
nah mate you have to go out and buy a plate that says palette on it

>>50164134
>really like how valhallan blizzard works right out of the pot.

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>>50163438
The zombies look bloody great! I'm jealous of your painting speed.
I'm the anon working on the Castigator, and it's the largest model I've ever painted, so it's a new experience for me.

>>50161419
Not whining, just see above. I'm halfway through the highlights now. Time consuming but absolutely worth it.


On a related note, I'm unsure how to base it. I've got some spare Knight bitz from a friend and I'm scratchbuilding a small church, but what does /wip/ think makes a large base look really good?

>>50164170
Larger bases let you tell a bigger piece of the story, as they say. It should be based to match the rest of the army it'll be deployed with, but incorporate larger elements of that theme. Like if you're doing a forest theme, putting a fallen tree across the base might look cool. Or if you're doing a city, put a part of a house on there, or whatever.

>>50161378
>not following duncan's advice and drybrushing the metal areas

Come on man, it's one of the few situations where it works well and it's so much faster.

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>>50164170
Put one of these at the base instead of a church

>>50164351
I don't get the churches meme. Where did it come from?

>>50164043

Hmm, should I do this?
Is it easier to clean after you're done?
I have the stuff needed.

Does the paint go through the paper?

>>50160778
it doesn't even look like a church. did you even try?

>>50164432
The paint doesn't go through the wax paper, but the water goes through the wax paper to the paint.

>>50163903
Looks good.

>>50164397
well... at one point KnightAnon posted a gorgeous Knight with a snow base with some stone scenery on it. One part of it (the railings from an Imperial City terrain sprue) looked a bit like a tiny church.
When KnightAnon was pointed this out he sort of freaked out I think, which cemented this as a TG meme of sorts.

>>50164432
Paint doesn't go through paper, but water from beneath it does, thus preventing your colors from drying out. Also, easier to clean up.

>>50164397
you must be new

>>50164487
I see. Thanks!

>>50164541
Not really, but I don't look at every thread and I don't go onto /tg/ every day, so I miss some maymay threads. I've seen the churches meme for a while now, but never got around to finding out why everyone keeps saying to add churches.

>>50164487
Don't confuse ChurchAnon with KnightAnon over at /hhg/. ChurchAnon can paint, KnightAnon can not.

working on some long neglected orks and grots. Got some Space Wolf and Blood Angels themed grots (I just haven't put the fetishes and medals on them) and some Bad Moons with yellow camo done on parts of them, though it may be hard to see in the pic.

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>>50164594
whoops then I forgot the pic

>>50164585
My mistake, I thought they were the same Anon.
Don't follow the discussions at HHG too closely, just look out for some good bits.

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>>50161555
Thanks for the input
The glossy parts are from coating it in Future then coating it in matte varnish. It's not totally flat like the paints are but necessary to keep the paint on. Here's what it looked like before varnishing. A lot of what looks like glossiness on the body in that pic is actually from the highlight pass I did.

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>>I told you about super glue.
>>I WARNED you, dog
Woke up this morning and found this happened overnight to my canopy. What should I do? Suicide?

>>50164939
Might just have to sacrifice your interior and paint them a shiny black.

>>50164703
paint black over the white. make it oil and dirt.

>>50164939
I don't think there's any real way to magically fix frosting after the fact.

If the frosting is on the outside, you could try polishing it off of the plastic with a tiny bit of acetone on a q-tip. Acetone will fuck with the plastic, but only if you leave it for too long. Or try with non-acetone nail-polish remover if you want to be safer, if less effective.

Also why didn't you use plastic glue?

>>50164939
There is a way to fix the frosting, but you'll need to be careful.

You can remove the frosting effect by gently wiping it with acetone and a soft cloth.

The downside here is that acetone eats polystyrene plastic (ie. everything that's not canopy), as well as the paint.
So if you can remove the canopy from the model and then try the fix, if it's on the model you risk damaging the plastic.
You can glue it back using acrylic glue or White Glue / PVA.

As for the source of this info: Warsenal Pro-Tips flyer thingy included with their orders, so I assume it's legit.

>>50165096
>Also why didn't you use plastic glue?
Doesn't work on clear acrylic plastic, that's not styrene plastic, so plastic glue won't work.

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>>50165096
oh also also;

DON'T DO ANYTHING ON THE MODEL UNTIL TESTING IT ON SPARE GARBAGE SPRUE PLASTIC FIRST. GET SOME SUPER GLUE. FROST UP SOME SPRUE. THEN TRY VARIOUS WAYS OF GETTING IT OFF.

BECAUSE YOU DO NOT WANT TO FUCK UP AN EXPENSIVE MODEL BASED ON INTERNET ADVICE

>>50165123
For real? And acetone doesn't eat it as much as the standard polystyrene? Interesting.

I guess haven't worked with a clear canopy in ages. Last time I did was a model F-14 back in the 90's, and I didn't know shit about modelling back then.

>>50165158
well, it's what Warsenal recommends for their laser cut acrylic, so I think it indeed does't harm it.

Styrene is probably the softest type of hard plastic, clear acrylic is pretty tough in comparison.

One other way of protecting the canopy would be dipping it in Future Floor Polish (Pledge these days), a thin coat of floor way will keep it much better than almost anything else you can put on it.

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Getting one half of my Tau Kill-team done. Other half is 11 Fire Warriors, gonna prime them White after soaking.

How do you folks figure i should go about painting a DDPAT on these lads?

I'm really really really enjoying the work on bases. I need to get some clear resin and crushed glass to pimp them out further.

what's the best way to strip plastic and metal minis of paint and glue? It's just regular superglue, I've heard that acetone works but softens plastic and that brake fluid works but just eats the plastic, so both of those sound ideal for metal but I have no solution for cleaning the plastic that makes up 2/3rds of the minis I own.

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Almost finished my new board, Johnny! Its fully modular.

What do you think?
Should i add something?

>>50165304
For metal, acetone. Strips everything.

>>50165316
you should add some post packaging and send it to me

>>50165316
Probably a bit too late, but I think the bright/rich blue of the water is a little out of place.

Otherwise, I'd say a little more in the way of vegetation? You have the scrub grass and a few ferns, but nothing in the size between those so the ferns/succulents stick out.

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>>50165316
this is awesome. super jealous.

>>50165304
dettol

>>50165365
Yeah, i thought of making green water at first, but then i went full contrast. Didn´t regret it.

>>50165316
On a scale of 1-10, where 1 is the mona lisa and 10 is a brick, how careful do you have to be with that scenery?

>>50165389
dettol for the plastic minis or the metal minis? or both?

>>50165664
You must have some bits lying around. Paint them up, then try cleaning them off. Worst case scenario you've wasted some bits you weren't using anyway.

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>>50165096
Yeah I didn't figure plastic glue would work and the fit was poor and required some serious hold to stick.
>>50165125
I think I have some spare canopy to test with - I'll try the acetone and a q tip, if it doesn't work I guess it's >>50164975

Thanks for the help. Ill try it out tonight.

>>50165542
>On a scale of 1-10, where 1 is the mona lisa and 10 is a brick, how careful do you have to be with that scenery?
I used to work on building sites, bricks are surprisingly easy to damage. You can't really drop them from any height and expect one to be ok. Unless you meant engineering bricks instead of house bricks I suppose.

>>50165316
Geiler Spieltisch, Bernd!

you could add some more gimmicks like the occasional skull or skelleton or things like that... you should also add a tutorial concerning how you did the water...
/envy

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So I still need to put more definition into the red, clean up the gems a bit, and edge highlight a tiny bit. But the first few are about there. Trying to think on how to fix up the spears a bit (didnt like black/silver boltguns)

>>50165542
The structure is made of filler, sand and paint. It´s pretty hard and durable. I would say 8.5. Check the videos out. This guy has some good advice.

How to:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jTZ6QZV-z0

How hard is it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAcLEmbzpmk

>>50165767

Step 1: Paint different blue tones
Step 2: Vallejo Water Effects

No rocket science.

>Get idea to make Marine army entirely of Rogue Trader minis
>Find chaplain on bike complete for cheap.
>Buy it
>Instant regret
>What the fuck was I thinking, how could I pull that off, it'll take forever.

Now I don't even want to make an army cause it'll probably become moot once 8th comes out.

Im going to be making terrain for my table. I want to make some burnt out tanks and destroyed artillery positions, what are some good (and preferably cheap) companies to buy from for this purpose?

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Nearly done with some sternguard.
>>Sgt: "pass me a space beer"

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>>50166031
secret weapon makes a blasted out tank and junk walls. they also have a tablescape and bases if you want to go overboard.

>>50165918
that sounds pretty reasonable. I think I'll look into that Vallejo thing! Thank you, kind sir!

>new guy, worried about how to apply primer
>watch the warhammer tutorial guy
>he says to get a long wooden stick (what the actual fuck) and double sided tape
>just stick them on there and move the stick while spraying
>this is literally the official tutorial

I don't have any of that crap.
How am I supposed to just "find" a long wooden stick?

The only way I can think of that doesn't involve weird shit is wearing latex gloves, hold the miniature and then spray.

>>50166098
>4MB
>Uncropped
M8.

>>50166160
Id rather make my own. Also they look a bit too futuristic for what I want. Im going for ww2

>>50166098
Is the pizza good?

>>50166239

>The only way I can think of that doesn't involve weird shit is wearing latex gloves, hold the miniature and then spray.

That´s exactly how it´s done. Do not forget to shake the can for a minute or two. Don´t spray if it´s too cold or too hot.

>>50166268
Yes.
>>50166244
Im sorry, my dude.

>>50166239
Get some heavy cardboard, you unimaginative fuck

Does anyone have that Space Marine Chapter chart with the numbers? Somehow about six spare marines have materialised in my bits box and I figured I may as well paint some random chapters for practice.

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Is this the gist of painting?

I'm trying to get better and I'm not sure how to really paint properly in the first place.

>>50166623
Yes

Reposting since last bread died before I could reply.

I'm looking for Marine-sized bird heads. Not ornamentation, but Lord of Change style. Anyone got ideas where I could find this?

>>50166862
Check the usual suspects like Puppetswar and such.

>>50166874
Yeah, I've looked around. Can't find much.

Anyone know how big the Herald of Tzeentch's head is? And how hard it would be to "close" his beak?

>>50167087
>Anyone know how big the Herald of Tzeentch's head is?
too big

cutting up tzaangors would probably be a better fit, size-wise

>>50167149
They're all snap-fit-ish, right? Could I feasibly cut some heads without doing too much damage?

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>>50167238
from the looks of it, two of the sculpts have separate heads

>>50161275
Goats pupils are vertical

>>50167414
depends on the ___goat

>>50166239
Go to a hardware store and buy a wooden stick. They have many varieties!

>I spend $80 on a plastic mini and $20 for a can of spray primer, but a $1.99 dowel rod is a fucking crisis

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As someone totally new to painting miniatures and looking to get a few done for D&D, should I invest in tools at my FLGS, or will sets of small brushes and acrylics from craft stores do it for me? Can you thin paints with water? What's the best way to get started so I can have miniatures that are good enough to look and play until I improve further?
Pic related, my first attempt a couple years ago when I got into the hobby and slapped unthinned student-grade paint on a reaper mini.

>>50167743
>should I invest in tools
Set a budget and invest in tools. Maybe you ll like it and get int the hobby.
>Can you thin paints with water?
Yes, don't let spoiled rich kids persuade you otherwise.
>What's the best way to get started
Read few simple tutorials, follow those steps, and above all have fun.

>>50164939
superglue is used to take fingerprints from glass and shiny surfaces for exactly this reason anon. There's not really a good way to fix it.

>>50164939
guess it's time for a winterized ship senpai.

>>50166098
>BROTHER SERGEANT, WE HAVE DISCOVERED THE HOLY PIZZARIUS
>PASS ME A BEVERAGE, BATTLE BROTHER
>TONIGHT, WE PARTY

>>50166623
It depends. As a general recommendation, thin layers starting off ARE the best way to go. As you progress and get better, you will learn which paints need to be thinned, and which paints are basically thin enough in the pot. For example, some of GW's base paint range is actually reasonably thin in the pot, and requires much less watering down. The P3 paint line requires next to no thinning for the browns and skin tones as well.

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>>50164939
Nah, forget the acetone; here's what you do.
>pop the canopy off (carefully)
>simple green strip
>obtain polish: metal polish or toothpaste (not gel). Something mildly abrasive.
>polish dat shit
>keep polishing
>oh shit, superglue's gone but canopy is all swirly, wat do?
>obtain pic related
>Not US? Obtain whatever your acrylic floor polish is called
>pour that shit in a cup
>dip canopy, let dry (1 hour is safe)
>repaint canopy, reglue (canopy glue or white glue this time, ya dingus
>???
>PROFIT

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gold

It seems like the Leadbelcher Spray from GW isn't available in Canada.

What's an alternative silver basecoat spray I can use? I'm attempting that Alpha Legion scheme that's been going around that layers blue and green glaze over a silver basecoat.

>>50168592
with an airbrush, any silver can be a spray

but also check army painter and vallejo to see if they have any rattlecans that tickle your fancy

How would you go about 40kifying a WW1 era plane? Not for Orks, imagine a low-tech human frontier world.

>>50166239
Go to your grocery store and get a bag of barbecue skewers. They're usually small enough that you can just use a bit of glue to attach it to the miniatures foot. I usually leave them on the skewer while I paint too so I don't have to touch the mini. Snap the skewer off when you're done and file off the left over glue from the bottom of the foot and you're golden.

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Working on some Iron Warriors.

thoughts?

>>50169109
maybe some more detail on the tooth, and I think there's a mold line on the pack but I can't really tell

>>50168502
Nice gold ya got

>>50169109
Applied over an entire army for tabletop level? Looks great.

For display? Terrible. But obviously you don't intend it as a display army, so moot point.

Consider doing full on shading (mixing black into your darkest color of metallic) on your characters/HQ options instead of washing the model and drybrushing it/edge highlighting.

>>50168848
Male it boxier and add skulls.

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wagh

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>>50166257
if you happen to have some tanks you could try Oyumaru.

>>50169386
explain?

>>50169409
it's a thermoplastic that you can heat up to make soft as beeswax, which you can use to make molds of whatever you want, and then press green stuff into. It works well for resin too if you have some.

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I chipped out for a SDE expansion set while at a con, just to get a bunch of chibi style minis. Should I keep this one as an angel, which would probably only be good for playing an aasimar or something like, or cut it down to just an archer?

>>50169409
Oyumaru, also called instamold, is this stuff (a type of resin maybe?) that goes really malleable when placed in hot water. You can use it to make press molds like shown or even do minor recasting of bits. Quite useful if you need an extra power weapon or meltagun or some such.


>>50169386
What's the white filler stuff used under the tank?

>>50169586
sorry, not my image so I don't know.

>>50169586
I got some of this stuff a few months back but never bothered with it. Greenstuff is too expensive for me (almost 50 bucks for a small roll) to make weapons or shit out molds of stuff I make.

>>50169621
if you're using it for terrain, you can get plumbers epoxy putty from hardware stores or even some grocery stores, it's effectively the same and costs about ten percent of what GW charge

>>50169621
Have you tried searching for kneadatite?

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Kneadatite-Yellow-Epoxy/dp/B00O7XUJJ8/

>>50169641
Plumber's putty is more toxic and much much grittier than greenstuff. Some types can get hot when curing as well. It's fine for terrain though.
>>50169621

Kneadatite is the proper name for greenstuff, under no circumstances should you buy it from GW. They mark it up something like 1000% or so.

>>50164053
And remember it has to be Games Workshop branded

>>50169621
It works great with resin, too, which is probably cheaper than that much greenstuff. I've used it to cast everything from bases to cosplay accessories with resin, as long as it's an open faced mold it's easy as shit. You could probably make multi part molds but those are much harder to get resin to cast correctly in without air bubbles and shit.

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did the white on the emblems and chests, and washes on the reds, golds.

>still to do
soft armor
bone (chaplain
plasma
touching up the final bases
highlights until I can no longer stand to look at the models

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my contest entry is coming along nicely.

>>50169672
>>50169648
>>50169641
>>50169729


I am familiar with Kneadatite, although it's called Knead-it over here.

Will it form the same kind of edges that Greenstuff will in a press mold? I've only used it to make putty bases.

>>50169866
kneadatite, or at least the kind of that brand, is the lime/blue putty that is green when mixed together.

it is the same as GW's greenstuff, but it is 15 USD for a huge tube of way too much rather than 15 USD for an ounce.

>>50165786
>dat uncleaned sprue connection on the spear on the guy on the right.
BRUH, WUT YA DOIN' BRUH. THOSE FUCKERS ARE EXPENSIVE. CLEAN YER MOLD LINES YA ANIMAL

>>50165664
dettol will strip paint from metal, resin, and plastic equally well, but if you let resin soak in dettol, it eats away at it. a day or two is fine, but two weeks is not.

to remove superglue, put in freezer overnight and then try to pop the joints apart with the flat of a knife.

>>50165786

Come on dude, clean the fucking mold lines and DEFINITELY CLEAN THE BITS OF SPRUE OFF

>>50165786
THIN YO PAINTS DUDE.

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Do you guys happen to know where I could find this in Yurop? I can't import it from the US and it is really hard to find over here for a reasonable price.

Alternatively what would you recommend a Dutch anon to start out with?

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>>50165377
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!

>>50170223
that looks terrible. Thin your MSpaints my man.

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>>50170291
lol. The results look quite nice, though.

>>50170331

Got bitched at for using these in a tourney once.

Guy said i was trying to block LOS.

Fucking hyper competitive assholes ruin everything.

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Just got done with this ugly sumbitch.

>>50169750

Da Lord of no-periphical vision

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>>50170349
That person might win games, but are they really winning?

>>50166623
could this be the new op?

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>>50170415

I like it, but I circled some parts that need work. The shading on the arm looks weird and needs to be cleaned up imo and it looks like you have some chipping on the head.

Also I am not a fan of having his decal on both sides, but thats just my opinion desu

>>50170415
>>50170606

Oh and I think he needs a base

>>50166031
>>50166257
>Im going for ww2
Warlord games has at least a few burned out half tracks and I'm sure they also have some fortified positions.
Not super cheap though.

If you were just going for generic stuff I'd have said try going through the toy aisle and cannibalize one of those hotwheels box sets. Finding something ww2 specific pretty much narrows it down to miniature companies though.

Depending on how important scale/accuracy is to you, you could try looking through the bargain bins at your local model train shop. Around here those shops usually have a table of stuff that was left over. If you are gaming in 28mm that would come around to 1:56 but I figure a 1:72 model could work too if you have broken it apart into several pieces and scattered it around a crater anyway.

>>50170606
>>50170617

Oh, thanks. I don't like doing up the skimmer bases because I feel like leaving it clear makes it as "realistic" as possible.

>>50166239
>The only way I can think of that doesn't involve weird shit is wearing latex gloves, hold the miniature and then spray.

Priming each mini separately will waste a lot of paint. Buying a piece of scrap wood from your local hardware store is gonna cost a buck or two at most.
Anyway if you have boxes or cardboard in your house at all you can use those too.

>>50170211
you can order reaper stuff from battlefield berlin.
Don't think shipping from germany to the netherlands would be too much.

>>50170211
>>50170663
Fantasywelt.de also stocks Reaper. Just in case Battlefield (which i can recommend too) is out of stock or something.

>>50170642

Thats fair.

>>50170632
I think what I will do is tomorrow I will go to a few toy stores to see what they have. Walmart and Target never have anything like what I will need. I also think there is a train store hidden in the next town over. Ill go see if they have anything like that.

http://www.kabuki-studio.com/knights-of-legend/209-celestial-knight.html get your God-Emperors while you can

>post progress on my models
>no replies
I know I don't deserve a reply, some mold lines were showing, and my paints were too thick, but it still hurts

>>50170797
>No picture
>No link to another post

>>50170804
I'll post another one tomorrow if I get any time to paint then, but i might not because I usually have to work late on wednesdays at my shit job


but my post was this one
>>50169733


my base coat came out too flat. The highlights looked really heavy when I was airbrushing, but when it dried they dulled out so much, and especially after the wash was applied it ended up looking like a solid green, rather than three layers of different greens, which it was.

>>50170827
>>50169733

They look fine, but the the white wings need another layer or two

>>50170853
>>50170853
The chest emblems was white with a sepia wash and really needs some white highlights as right now it just looks cream colored.

the shoulder emblems on the other hand... I think they looks kind of awful. Other than putting another thin coat of white I am not sure hot to fix it. The very old pot of Skull White paint I was using was not cooperating and the paint would go from runny thin to visible brush stroke thick in about 30 seconds. Maybe if I put more distilled water in there and give a real thorough shake?

>>50170663
>>50170687
I'll check those out. Thanks!

>>50170930
Try painting a light grey (dawnstone comes to mind) and then layering white over that. That way the grey shows through the white instead of green or black.

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Is Imperial Primer any good? I've heard horror stories

Can't use spray because my room has shit ventilation and it's perpetually pissing outside.

>>50170955
Its workable. Cons are its price and its tiny pot.
Get Vallejo instead if you can. Cheaper, bigger bottles and has various colors to choose from

>>50170939
I should have tried that. Not sure why I didn't. I have a pot of mechanicus standard grey.

Something that people recommended that worked though - mixing metallics. Vallejo Silver base coat, then brushing on a very thin rough 50-50 mix of gw gehenas gold and vallejo silver, then washing with sepia. It stuck great to the models and came out nice, or at least I think so anyway. Going to highlight with this brighter gold color I have, then finally with the painfully bright looking vellejo gold.

Also is it just me or has 4chan posting been really shit the past couple days?

>>50170955
I use Vallejo Black Surface primer. It comes in a big bottle, but I would assume it is similar? I use it with an airbrush though...

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>>50170955

I dont spray because its always dark when I can work so I use pic related. Its fantastic and drys thinner than normal paint despite the fact you dont have to water it down..

>>50170955
So mine is weird.
It's quite thin and doesn't give an even coating of Black, even when really well mixed.
But with it's thin low pigment coat, you can paint onto it well and it adheres nicely.

I have a suspicion it it like a black wash with PVA mixed in or something... but it doesn't seem to re liquefy when in contact with moisture from painting the next layer on.

>>50169733
>Dark Angels
>Bright Green

>>50170990
I guess they will get darker once a wash is applied.

>>50170663
>>50170687
It seems like they don't have it. I guess I'll just ask my local store if they can order it next Friday.

>>50171012
Why do you want that specific set though?
Can't you just order a set of paints and 3 single bones minis?

>>50170990
I used the darkest green I had over a black. There were some highlights on the base coat, but you can't really tell. It just looks green.

>>50171000
They have wash on them already. No gloss or anything, and it was applied really thick too.

They are just really bright I guess.

Sorry I fucked up so much.

>>50171024
Don't worry Anon. They aren't bad and once based they'll look great.

>>50171022
I could but I read that it comes with a pretty good beginner's guide. Just buying some paint at my local store and ruining some old minis I have is my back-up plan though.

>>50171069
Have you checked the OP? Its full of painting guides. Just saying

>>50165738
That desert tan, sexy as fuck!

>>50169750
It's so ugly, and I'm not talking about the paintjob...

>>50170238
Here it comes, super hero landing

>>50170238
he looks so much like Disney's Tarzan

Is there a WIP like book of tips or notes? I've taken bits and pieces of advice from the last few threads and it's really helped me out in my work (I prefer reading notes to videos unless it's on the actual painting of whatever model I'm doing.)

>>50164487
does anyone have screenshots of this KnightAnon freak out?, i remember seeing it ages ago...

>>50171516
I'd like to know if theres a list of recommended or essential paints

going shopping tomorrow for my first load of paint/supplies

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I'm from Buenos Aires and I say purge 'em all!

>>50171647
Its best to buy what you need when you need it.

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By the emperor how horrifying.

>>50171819
Nothing acetone can't fix.

>>50171828
since when acetone fixes ugly models?
unless they are plastic, of course

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>>50171842
dont you dare diss old school hobbit snipers you fucking nerd

>>50170797
Here's a shorthand guide to /wip/ for you:
Model is amazing: a lot of positive/neutral replies
Model is great: a couple of positive/neutral replies
Model is good: no replies
Model is ehh: a couple of neutral replies
Model is bad: a couple of negative/neutral replies
Model is shit: a lot of negative/neutral replies

If you get both positive and negative replies, the art style and/or techniques used are likely subjective, take criticism at own risk.

>my first ever stuff arrives
>try to open citadel paint
>have to use a bit of force cause the damn thing won't open
>pops open
>get some on my fingers

Not a good start.
What a waste, it was the gold expensive paint too.
Is there a trick to opening them?

>>50171881

Dont forget people telling you to take better pictures.

Also to improve the thread be sure to comment on everything.

>>50170223
aaaaaah, that's how the battery teacandle smoke works

>>50170827
I don't generally look at space marine models because they're usually pretty much all the same unless somebody REALLY fucked up, but I do like that paint rack you've made.

>buy ghostkeel
>assemble legs
>one hip keeps slipping while attaching the feet
>feet slip as a result and instantly lock on
>last time i tried to reposition feet on a suit after gluing it broke the feet
>the foot is now securrd by a hasty looking millimeter or so of greenstuff wrapped around the contact points

So anyone want to give me pointers for greenstuffing a base together? Maybe lava?

>>50172146
Corkboard would be decent for a craggy lava base, not sure what would be best material for the actual lava, though.

>>50171890

>open stormcast eternals
>the pieces are fucking tiny
>I knew they were small but didn't realize they were THAT small until I saw them in real life
>instructions don't seem clear enough or I'm too stupid
>will have to cut, glue and paint those tiny things

Oh god...
What have I done...
I don't think I'm going to make it lads...

>>50172189
The kit I'm working on is 200-odd pieces for a single model. You'll be fine.

>>50172360
My kit is 400 bits for half a model! And I have to prime in the snow while going uphill!

>>50172372
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeXMKygwSco

>>50161152
literally why are you here

>>50172526
i'm here for pictures for inspiration for conversions, duh

>>50172372
Memes aside, infantry isn't too bad once you've done the first one or two. Some minis are rougher than others- compare Fire Warriors to Gaunts, for example- but you'll get the hang of it.

>>50172622
Painting my hordes of gaunts is a fuckin' chore though.

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>check primer
>15-25 celsius

Oh you gotta be shitting me.
What are you supposed to do in the winter? Or summer?

>>50172663
Gesso

>>50172622
I've found my bloodletters a joy to paint. Now modelling the little fuckers... I've never actually had a model do it's title before but those bastards let my blood alright.

>>50172663
Several options:

Best:
>airbrush

Somehwat ok:
>Brush on primer

Hopefully it turns put well:
>put the can into warm water for a while and then spray and hope it won't go terribly wrong

Chemical attack tier:
>spray indoors

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First five tac marines done

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>>50172829
alternative angle

>>50172837
Gat damn that's smooth, anon

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>>50172829
>>50172837
Assault marines I posted here a while ago (still flamerless due to lack of superglue for magnets unfortunately)

>>50172848
what happens if I take the mask off that rightmost one?

>>50172863
he'd be a big guy

>>50172848
Can we get closeups of the two helmetless marines?

>>50172933
no, cuz I haven't painted their eyes. I suck at that, and I'm embarrassed about it.

>>50172944
give 'em sunglasses
can't go wrong with sunglasses

>>50165316
That's awesome

>>50161275
Trim the grass, it's distracting. Otherwise, it's GOAT

>>50161968
Sexy yellow man. Does the mini on the far left have shade on his left hand?

>>50162823
>Duncan
Paper towel, work the bristles into the paper. Use a cheap/old brush.

>>50163935
From bottom to top: cookie sheet, damp paper towel, parchment paper. Shit stays liquid forever because the water keeps it from drying out, and you can stick it in the freezer after you're done painting.

>>50165234
Nice bases! Be careful with that glass anon-kun, or find the diy snow image.

>>50169733
That's some nice cloth you got there.

>>50170238
DROP THE BEAT!

>>50173069
well spotted. He didn't, so I fixed it here >>50172829
>>50172837

>>50172829
>>50172837
>>50172848

Beautiful. I normally dont like yellow but these are great. The chipping and dirt on their feet are superb.

As for eyes, I prefer to not do them and just have a shady brow

>>50172829
Very neat job and an amazing contrast with the bases! I love them

>>50173159
the chipping is just burnt umber and off-white over/under, sparingly

the weathering is a tamiya weathering kit (looks like a little woman's make-up kit and comes with a brush/sponge thing, ezpz)

>>50173228
Im going to have to get that kit them. Thanks anon.

>>50173256
the specific one is tamiya weathering master sand/light sand/mud

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Got this glue, I took off the plastic thing and a metal rod came out with it. When I took a closer look at it I realized it was a tiny pipe, probably to apply glue easily. What did I do wrong? I put the pipe in again, it doesn't move if I'm careful so I think am okay. Kinda.

God damn it, nothing is going well and I feel like a complete retard.

>>50173301
Somebody once told me that the pipe is supposed to be removable to clean it if it gets stuck. But yeah, just put it back and use it normally.

>>50173301
u did nothing wrong, that pipe is not glued/set in so it'll sometimes get pulled out by accident. Don't worry about it.

Also, if it clogs, the easiest way to unclog it is to hold a lighter flame to the needle until it does a little flamethrower thing out the tip. Then u know air can travel thru it.

>>50173329
>>50173336

Oh, I see, that's good to hear.
I just assumed I fucked up because all this model stuff seems really hard to me. ;_;

>>50173383
Chill senpai, it's supposed to be a relaxing hobby

>>50173383
I genuinely can't tell if all this posting is supposed to be satire or not

>>50173301
Related question, is there a reliable way to break this plastic glue's bond to un-assemble a model without damage?

>>50173544
nope
it's not a glue, it's a compound that melts the plastic and fuses it together.

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Anyone got any idea for creating a porcelain-like look? I've been fucking around trying to get it to work for a bunch of Infinity miniatures, but all my efforts so far look like ass.

>>50174457
gloss varnish over your desired color.

>>50174457
airbrush off-white and airbrush gloss varnish

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Working on my Renegades, been painting for a while but I'm pretty critical of myself. How would you say I'm doing?

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WIP, i have to work on the highlights and the metal

What would be a good cape color for a light grey colored model? Im thinking red or black would be good for it, but dont really want to do either of them,

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>>50175732

>>50175738
navy blue?

>>50175732
>Lamenters

Godspeed you, paint Emperor.

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>>50175738
>red
>but dont really want to do either of them

Red seems like the best choice to me, anon. What is your aversion to it?

>>50172829
How you do those bases anon?

>>50175858
Ive done red and black capes on several other models before, and just want to have a nice change of pace.

>>50175533
I think that Chaos star on the russ there is very neat-o.

Would it be possible for you to get pictures of the cultists in better lighting?

>>50176118
Thanks, and I'll grab you a pic later, got a DVD session to go to

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>>50160760
Van Saar colour test. Lighting's a bit crap, though. Sorry for that.

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>>50171890
holding it in your hand and prying it open with your thumb allows you to open it slowly while still holding it steady

>>50171890
>>50176326
>Is there a trick to opening them?

I find that facing the opening away from myself as I pop the cap eliminates the risk of splatter on myself or my clothes. Same trick works for those little cups of Yoplait yogurt.

>>50176326
7/10, thin your paints m8

>>50176206

His stillsuit is fitted "desert fashion". Who taught you how to do that?

>>50176206
Looks great. Really makes me want to get a squad to use a cultists/renegade infantry

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>>50176391
That's what I like about them, the very Dune-esque look to them. On top of that, just paste normal heads on them and carve off the 'Nid symbols.

>>50176408
They're truly perfect for Necromunda. I got mine from the Overkill box, so they're a bit limited, but the new sets come with pretty much all the options you want. In general, the kits are really nice and slot together well, even if they take ages to paint (though that may just be my choice of colours).

And this time, I'm magnetizing them. Otherwise I'll be making about thirty before the campaign is over, and I need to stop somewhere.

Where is the best place to buy online or in stores sable brushes an anon mentioned in the last thread? Anything better than hobby lobby, Michael's or Amazon?

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>>5017553 Are you using IA 13 or the Vraks list?

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I just got some chipping medium, anyone have experience in using it with fantasy minis?

I want to do shields and armor like they've been painted but have been in a battle since then, but I'm worried that it will just look like I forgot to varnish the mini.

I'm working mostly with bronze, wood, and pig iron for Tomb Kings. I'm specifically wanting to start with Arkhan's armor, so its purple paint on bronze armor rather than just some goofy looking purple metal.

>>50176699
Gonna use vraks at first. Unending host caught my attention

Considering getting the GW Tint set, any opinions on whether its a good buy?
I do worry about not being able to get more pots of tint if I want to expand my collection and not being able to ever get the same tone in a particular paint. It would ruin the uniformity of my army.

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>>50164611

>>50176819
Tends to work better with large models.

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>>50176978
Damn. Oh well, I can probably still find a use for it.

I saw these and thought it'd work.

>>50176519
>carve off the 'Nid symbols
except you didn't

>>50160778

that church between his legs looks really narrow and skinny

>>50176519
I been doing this with traitor guard

Does purity seal work? What are the riskes?

How can I restore my brush tips? Got a bit sloppy and merc'd my S layer brush and OOO brush.

Also, what do you personally consider the say, 5-7 brushes you really should have for painting size/shape wise?

Third question off the top of my head, I suck knobs at edge highlighting, would I be better served using a drybrush technique?

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WIP on Drac Mac Syro

>>50176206
man that looks great, where did you get that head from?

Does anyone have a good guide on making it look like a mini is bursting upwards through the ground?

>>50177938
I've had good luck restoring brushes using brush soap, but if paint has gotten in the ferrule it's not going to work and you should just use it for drybrushing.

I do everything with either a #2 or 3/0 brush myself. I have some shitty large brushes for doing terrain and really big stuff with.

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>>50166467
here go

>>50166239
When doing shit tons of infantry to an OK standard, I put duct tape on a yard stick, and spray primer.

>>50166239
>what the fuck is a tomato stick/broom handle/2x2/random piece of scrap wood
>what the fuck is double sided tape that is less than $5 at pretty much any store/hardware store

This is the generation we live in

>>50166239
Looks like we finally found the lowest common denominator of the Warhammer fanbase.

>>50166239
>>50167703

You don't have to buy the wooden stick, they are free. Walk into any home improvement warehouse or house paint store and grab a paint stirring stick.

Buy double sided tape or a pack of poster putty.

>>50168848
Add imperial glpyhs and aquillas if for imperial, add tentacles if chayoss

>>50178194
Oh, hey, I follow your tumblr. Didn't realize until now that you also posted in here.

Just bought my first minis from red-box, they looked pretty good, can't wait to get them and give painting a shot

>>50179366
Which ones did you get?

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>>50179382
A few, pretty generic characters, i have bad taste

>>50179508
Penis

>>50168848
All of the above, but also add rivets and metal. Thickening the thin details might be good as well.

>>50179618
My bad, should I delete the image?

>>50177161
True, that's why I called him a colour test.

Any other QLDfags struggling to paint in this heat? Every time i mix some paint it dries up and shit keeps caking up on my brush ;_;

>>50178976
roll

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I think I'm getting the hang of eyes now.

>>50179673
Nope. Its not sexual so s'ok

>>50178976
R O L L I N G

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>tfw your platoon gets assigned the crazy sumbitch commissar who uses a flamer

Just working away on some commissars. Anyone have some ideas for how I can add some flashy stuff to the base? I've got some gravel type stuff and some nice arid grass tufts that I think will add a nice touch but I'm also considering a scorched skull or something for ol burnyface. He was my original commissar when I started and his extra crispy brand of motivation has kept my guys in line ever since. Would like to do something nice for him, especially since I'm repainting all his gear.

These guys are only about halfway done, so Im still getting around to all the weathering, drybrushing, final layer of gold trim, etc. just figured I'd ask for advice on the basing now while I still have time to work on other stuff

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youse guys like atlas recovery vehicles?

point and laugh. /wip/
Point and laugh.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mad-Max-Themed-Deluxe-2000-point-Ork-Warhammer-40k-Orks-Army-Commission-Service-/252353323601?hash=item3ac16e2251:g:GNUAAOSwgApXDSo-

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For comparison's sake.

File: chaplain1_v2_cc.jpg (132KB, 1328x1494px) Image search: [Google]

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>>50180354
Finished the first wash. Now I have to highlight it, glaze the yellow. Rewash, rehighlight, and second glaze it.

>>50178976
>>50180056
rerolling and polite sage because that shit is impossible