WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

Are there any guides or at least good examples of how to make shapeless swirly magic magickness / energy swirls?

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>>50143528
>how to make shapeless swirly magic magickness / energy swirls?
Well. Not sure what you mean.
But you can get all sorts of elementals as miniatures or markers for spell effects for different games.

As for making stuff yourself, anything goes. I guess you could start with a wire armature and some hot glue for blobby stuff and roll out some putty and arrange it somehow while it dries.
Milliput might be good for stuff like this since it dries rock hard.
Look up some tutorials on sculpting fire.

>>50143622
yeah, that's similar to what I meant. something like Nagash's base ghosts, just without faces. swirly stuff.

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been trying out some grey armor. Look alright so far?

>>50144147
I like it. But be careful, with everyone and their grandmother trying out NMM a basic grey armor could easily be misunderstood as a failed NMM attempt.

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I'm in the middle of assembling my GSC and decided to spring for the sector imperialis bases, and I suppose the best thing to do is to paint the bases first.

How do you guys attach a model to a base that's been painted? scrape away the paint a bit? Pin them?

Also, what material do you use for tacking models to temp bases for painting? The blue part of greenstuff?

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>>50144236
>The blue part of greenstuff?

No, what you probably want to use is "Bluetac" Thats some kind of poster putty.

Stuff like that comes in different colors and brands, so just get something cheap from your local store.

>>50144176
Ive tried NMM and I know I can't pull it off. It looks really good for people who can do it, but I can't.
I do like doing OSL effects tho.

Has anyone ever tried painting Celestial Lions? I like how over-the-top their paints are and only having 1 official surviving member that's pretty much the only black marine in the cannon as far as I know would make for a perfect special snowflake chapter master.

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This duder (which perhaps stupidly I chose as a test model) is almost finished, just a bit of touch up/detail work and decals whenever the fuck they arrive from FW.

>>50144748
Lookin' smooth!

>>50144748
I like it, looks really neat! maybe the staff could use some work, though.

>>50144748
it seems to be that the styles of the plasma gun and the rest of the model clash a bit, though it may be just me. other than that it all is painted really well.

>game tomorrow
>want to finish army
>start painting
>get diarrhea
>run to toilet every 4 minutes

I wish I could paint while taking a shit.

>>50145187
is your toilet so small? not even a sink there or something you can put a piece of cardboard on to make a makeshift table?

or if it's really runny you can sit in the bathtub, butthole over drain hole, a board across the borders, paint on that

>>50145227
Who shits in their bath?
What kind of person are you?

>>50145227
Problem is that I'd have to paint on my lap since nothing is in range to put my stuff on. And I sure won't risk one of my models falling off my lap and somehow getting into the toilet.

And it's not fluid enough to just shit down a drain.

Not like I'd even try that, holy shit man.

>>50144236

You're not going to see the base below the miniature....

And if you use strong enough glue it won't fall off. Like superglue? You don't need to attach the model by scraping paint away, but you could pin if you REALLY wanted to.

Has a anyone ever used colored primer here to basecoat a vehicle? I'm getting frustrated with brush painting my Rhino and I'm considering just grabbing a can of Krylon colored primer so I can get a smooth green base coat.

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>>50145187
>>50145227
>anon your paintjob looks like shit

Asking this in Warhammer threads.

How does the size of the island of blood Magee on gryphon compare to the Phoenix? Similar or big discrepancy?

Pictures would be great but I'll take what I can get

>>50145244
I am a person without diarrhea, so I can paint at the table and don't have to make choices like that

>>50145269
well, if you change your mind, you can drink a lot of water and eat some laxatives, that should fix the drain problem

or you could just run to a dollar store real quick (wear brown pants just in case) and buy a tray with tall borders - paint on it, it will prevent models from taking a shit-dive. don't paint metal minis for the time being though - unlike plastic they will actually sink through shit

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>mostly paint Warmahordes stuff
>occasionally pick up a commission here or there to paint a few pieces of 40k
>have urge to paint 40k army (not play, I hate the rules with a passion)
>In between jobs so food is more important.

My style of painting doesn't even fit 40k models anyway, but the itch is still there.

>>50145395
>food is more important
casual amateur.

>>50145383
The IoB gryphon is quite small, the size of an horse, even if the stretched pose makes it look bigger.

>>50145430
I've been through my phase of "hue hue time to buy 17 new models fuck now I have to eat noodles for a month".

Actually considering how fat i'm getting I should probably go back to that.

>>50145490
see? SEE?!
I passed that phase too once, and started getting fat. now I'm back to expanding my armies and i'm getting fitter.

food is overrated anyway. you can go without food for day or two with little problems.

>>50145227
>>50145384
You seem to have lot of personal insight on the matter Sir.

>>50145474
Thanks

>>50145569
spent some time on /b/, you wouldn't believe the shit you see.
people burning their dicks in microwaved feces they were trying to fuck for example

I wish I could stay home and paint today

Being a wageslave sucks sometimes

>>50145625

I've actually considered bringing in a cutting mat and some paints so I can actually do something in my lunch hours instead of reading clickbait.

>>50145625
I know that feeling.

Tried to get VPN access so I could work from home sometimes while my boss was in no fucks to give mode because he was leaving. New boss started before he could approve it.

I don't have VPN access now.

At least I can browse WIP

>>50145490
>Actually considering how fat i'm getting I should probably go back to that.

Well, if Han Solo (dumping his - sorry *your* - shipment at the first sign of an Imperial starship? And he calls himself a smuggler?!?) would pay you all that money he owes you, maybe you could finally afford to eat *and* buy miniatures.

>>50144788
>>50144825
>>50145163

Thanks!

Yeah the staff I'm not happy with for sure, plasma I've not decided on yet - I have some tactical supports to paint so I'll play around with stronger glows or brighter greens.

Cheers for the feedback

>>50145324
Yeah, it can be hit or miss depending on the colour - I've seen people do ultramarines like that.

Any tutorial in creating minis with paper,bottle caps and stuff like that? i want to create some final fantasy minis

>>50144553
Thanks. I have some of that but it just doesn't seem very strong

>>50145301
I was a bit worried that if I superglued the feet directly to paint, there's a chance of it all flaking off under stress.

>>50145625
>>50145706
>>50145731
I usually have a few toolboxes I'm bringing back and forth between home and work. I'm thinking about setting one up with all my modeling tools (need to anyway) so I can scrape dem moldlines and get paid for it.

Anyone else having issues painting with Pallid Wych Flesh? I either thin it too much and it comes out watery, or it always shows brush strokes. This is the only paint I've had these kinds of issues with. Even just flat white colors are easier than this.

>>50146480
>Any tutorial in creating minis with paper,bottle caps and stuff like that?
I don't understand.
What kind of miniature could you even build with paper and a bottle cap?
Do you mean something like printing a picture and gluing it onto the bottlecap as makeshift gaming piece?

Cause for actual miniatures you better start wit a cork, wire and the modeling clay of your choice.
A knife, your finger and a needle will do for most sculpting, if you want to get fancy you can get a set of wax carving tools cheap on amazon.

>>50146620
Pallid Wych Flesh is very translucent, so you're going to have coverage issues quite easily.
Maybe create a base to work from that's closer to PWF?
Say 75% PWF, 25% some high coverage white and then layer up from there?
Not sure if that would work, but a base that's similar should help hide any brush strokes more easily.

>>50146781
I'm doing an undercoat of Rakarth Flesh. Think that's close enough? I was thinking maybe do an average coat of PWF then a second thinner coat to improve coverage too. It just makes for a ton of work and it consumes a ton of paint since I'm painting a swarm nid army with it.

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Basecoats about finished. Now to start the fun of highlighting.

Not sure if I want to have her be a brunette, or go with blonde.

>>50146862
It could work, but for an entire swarm that's a lot of extra work... The paint is a secondary concern given the number of models involved.

Maybe try airbrushing that stuff?
That should give you more even coverage from the get go, and a lot quicker for a swarm of 'nids.

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>>50143622
haven't seen those instructions yet, pretty sweet! Thx!

Anyways: Made some progress on my harlequins. First full Troupe will be finished soonish™...

>>50146954
Where did you get that lady from Anon?

>>50146954
>brother-sergeant Valerius rallyes the local peasent militia to fight the heretical Tau-empire xenos...

looking pretty sweet! they already look good the way they are... what are you planning to do with the bases? Well, blonde always works for me...

>>50147047
Hasslefree minis, should be.. Alicia, I think?

>>50146960
I agree, an airbrush would definitely be a better option. I guess it's time to invest in one at this point.

>>50147061
Sold out on their website btw

Battlefield Berlin has her in stock though if you aren't afraid to order in germany. I don't know any other source.

>>50147058
Bases will likely be the standard fantasy grassy knoll. Not entirely sure. Got a bunch of others waiting to be painted afterwards, so I've some time to decide.

>>50147162
Yeah, Hasslefree's just gone through a big halloween sale and (I think?) a kickstarter, so I'm not sure what their stock's going to be like for november.

>>50147145
Yeah, I'm looking to buy one this Christmas as well. Are there any good beginner guides (including a shopping list or smth) out there?

>>50147195
Dr Faust on yt has a couple of airbrush related guides.

>>50146517
To play devil's advocate; I would pin. If you follow >>50145301's advice, you're relying on the bond between the paint and the base. Plus, unless it's a show mini, you have to assume the mini's going to be dropped/knocked around at some point.

>>50147232
I've been trying to avoid pinning with my models, but I might as well learn to do it right at some point. You're right though, I do expect these minis to be dropped at some point.

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>>50145227
>you can sit in the bathtub, butthole over drain hole, a board across the borders, paint on that
>mfw picturing the scene in my mind

>>50146994
They are cool anon, love the scheme.

>>50147333
What is the sauce of that gif?

>>50147213
Would airbrush users here recommend the method of applying shade and highlight first, then basing over that, or applying shades and highlights over the basecoat?

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>>50147362
The second is how i do my imperial fists.

>>50147362
>What is the sauce of that gif?
Hero. Jet Li film.

>>50145490
>saving money by buying noodles instead of potatoes/rice/legumes/in season vegetables/cheap cuts of meat
>losing weight by eating noodles instead of the above, calories in calories out

Enjoy your wasted money and vitamin deficiency, you lazy cunt.

>>50145625
Be careful what you wish for. I've been a NEET for over a year living off of savings and my motivation to paint is close to zero.
It's so easy to procrastinate your painting from "later today" to "tomorrow" in an endless cycle while doing things that provide more short-term entertainment such as video games/TV shows/movies/fapping etc. Without sadness, there's no joy and so on.

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Noob here, Would one of these forge world Cerastes knight heads fit on a paladin or an errant? if not, how much and what kind of work would be needed to get it on.

>>50147359
thanks!

Kinda digging how this DIY banner ended up.

Tho I totally forgot to decorate it before washing it.

>>50147770
I imagine the connecting joint will be fairly similar, but I have no idea if they're actually the same or not.

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>>50147940
Fug

Is there a painting guide for 30K Dark Angels anywhere? Google seems to be failing me.
Just starting to assemble my Burning of Prospero box.

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I'm making a Daemons of Tzeentch army with an allied renegade Knight, and I need to make the Knight more Daemon of Tzeentch-ish. He's mostly there to support my Screamers while they fly around and fuck shit up, so I was thinking I'd make him look like a Screamer. I've got a good idea of what I want to do, but I'd love to hear what you guys think.

Pic related is something I posted a couple of weeks ago when I first started coming up with ideas on making my Knight look more Daemonic, and I think I'm gonna stick with this. I'm also thinking lots and lots of eyeballs around the armor, and I'm gonna add a bunch of teeth to the armor plate on the battle cannon to make it look like the barrel is coming out of a lamprey mouth.

Thoughts? I also need a color scheme for my army. Something bright, but not too loud if you know what I'm saying? Possibly a soft lunar yellow primary with a nice rich blue secondary.

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>>50148074
>paint black
>affix wing decal to shoulderpad

>>50148074
Look up a tutorial for black and do that. DA are probably the least complicated Legion to paint.

I'm new, give me the retard's painting guide.
Mainly what I need to buy.
So far I think I need a black spray thing to put first, then base paints then a wash.

Is that right?

>>50148515
U the guy of the aos general? Looks pretty okay. Take a look at some of the basic GW painting guides to get a feel what they're doing. Also, check YouTube, warhammertv for example.

>>50148549
>U the guy of the aos general?

Yep.
Okay, thank you.

>>50148515

Primer goes on first, it helps paint stick to the model. Doesn't have to be black, depending on the main colors you want your mini to be.

Base goes on second, this is gonna be the main color of your model.

Washes are next, they'll shade the model.

Layers are for brightening up spots on the model, like for building up highlights.

You'll also need some clippers (wire cutters work great) as well as a scalpel to clean mold lines.

Watch this video for a good idea of how the painting process works:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enUqWuU-Nns&list=PL3lM6q3XSpms-TJ_KfVt6RkBHM0yO-F8M&index=18

>>50148573
Longer answer:it depends on the army and on the color scheme you are going for. As a start, I'd get one black, white, brown, blue, yellow, red, silver (maybe gold/bronze) and green color. If you want to paint skin, one skin color. If skulls or bone, one bone color. Additionally, for the main colors of your model, get 2 or three different shades of that color, so you can get consistent highlighting results without mixing (I would suggest Vallejo colors, as they're cheaper than GW and come in superior bottles). Also, get based Nuln Oil and Reikland Fleshshade, maybe one more shade of your choice. I'd advice you to get original GW shades, as they are better than most of the others on the market. Get one medium sized brush (2) and one finer detail brush (0/00). Important: read how to handle brushes properly. Also get one rattle can of the primer of your choice. Some ppl recommend a cheap brand (can't remember which), I personally use army painter spray. Really important is to thin your colors and try to be as accurate as possible while painting,even if you need multiple layers. And don't get discouraged if your first models look like shit, you'll progress pretty fast.

>>50148786
That should be like 50-60$ and will get you pretty far

>>50148646

Thanks.

Forgot to say, I'm going to buy the citadel starter set and it includes a "starter brush". Will that do or do I need to get another brush? I'm mainly worried about the small details.

>>50148786
I really wish more companies made comprehensive starter packs like the Army Painter pack. I love their package, but I just can't actually recommend their paint.

It's great to be able to just say, here, get this, it'll cover everything you need to paint for pretty much ever, at least until you're ready to start working with some advanced shit and by then you'll know what you want. But, unfortunately, their actual paint is weak shit, so I can't really recommend it.

Does anyone have advanced tutorial for bronze?

>>50148877
Yeah I never used their paints, only the primer. But so far everyone told me their paints are shit, so I'm staying away from them

>>50148823
Get 2 or 3 more brushes.

One intended for "drybrushing".
Also get a size 1 and a 0. (look for sable brushes in the $3-5 price range here)
These won't be the best brushes ever, but they are good enough to not completely suck and if you handle them correct they will last a while. If not, the damage to your wallet isn't to big.

If you plan to paint lots of big stuff like vehicles, consider a bigger brush like a 3 or maybe even a 4 too.

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Iron Without!

>>50148948
>>50148877

What exactly is shit about their paint?
While i only used some of their spray cans and a single bottle of brown wash so far, a friend has 2 or 3 of their paint sets and never complained.

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I don't have a gw shop within 100 miles of me, and I can't paint for shit. Wat do?

>>50148957
>One intended for "drybrushing".
Another anon here, what kind of brush would you recommend for this air quotes "drybrushing" thing?

I'm... not going to lie, I have an easier time doing wet blending than I do with drybrushing. I don't understand it, either you don't have paint on the brush and it does nothing or you do have paint on the brush and it's like slapping paint on the mini in a retarded manner.

I'm not certain what I'm doing wrong, and I suspect it may be the brush I'm using.

>>50148986

It's fine, really.

The difference between all the paints from all the differences are just different shades of grey.

You'll be fine with Army Painter, Citadel, Vallejo etc etc

It doesn't matter.

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>the emperor and his custodies are now being produced by gw and have their own codex. They are ridiculously OP but the look kool as fuck.
Wat do, /tg/?

>>50149050
Nah u can drybrush with every brush, but it will take a toll on it, so a dedicated drybrush is advisable. You either use too much or too little paint, when it seems to not do anything, do some more strokes on the mini and you will see an effect. I normally use my finger to get rid of most if the paint from my brush.

>>50149050
A drybrushing brush obviously.

something like this:
https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/L-Drybrush

Since he seems to be a total beginner i figured he might drybrush a lot in the beginning.. which would kill his brushes very effectively.

Maybe he figures out how to wet blend over time, but for a starter, drybrushing is a solid technique.

>>50148986
So, I'm >>50148877 and I actually did start with the Army Painter mega paint set, because it looked like a great value. 42 pots of paint and some brushes for $100, that's a ton of paint in a huge range sure why not. And for a long while I loved it and even recommended it to friends, with one of the poor sods buying it, just because I never tried any other company's paint range and so lived in blissful ignorance.

But, as I kept painting, I occasionally found that it lacked a color I wanted, so I supplemented. I found a nice ivory and a nice chocolate brown in Vallejo, along with some flesh paints, and as I used these I realized they were so much better than the Army Painter stuff. The AP paints took literally two to three times as many coats to get good coverage, thinned down to the same exact consistency, and they had a very gloss, plasticy finish to them compared to the matte finish that Vallejo paints have. I felt pretty sheepish after realizing that, and eventually ended up buying into another paint range after messing around for a bit.

tl;dr; they have poor coverage and a crappy finish to them. They're better than craft store paints, but not as good as Vallejo / GW / P3. However, their washes are actually downright excellent, so at least that's good.

>>50149137
I'm not a fan of the new GW drybrushes, does anyone make them like the small drybrush before?

>>50149168
I was just the first thing that came to my mind when i thought about a link to a drybrush.

Army Painter and Vallejo also sell brushes, maybe they have what you want. I have one made by vallejo and i think its fine, but i have no idea whats wrong with the "new" GW ones so idk.

>>50149137
If you're sending someone to the art or hobby store for brushes, he might as well get some sort of flat shader for drybrushing instead of ordering Cidatel shit seperately.

>>50149191
the new ones are square and flat. The old one with the blue bit at the end had a fine tip and was more like a short normal brush that was a bit firmer

>>50146954
The old Bretonnian men at arms are some of my all time favourite models, especially the spearmen. Lucky you!

>>50149159
Keep in mind they updated and expanded their range of paint quite some times.

I remember when army painter had like 20 different paints. Now they have like 60 i think.

I use alot of Vallejo, and some of their paint is great. I love their Game color "extra opaque" stuff.
Some other paints (for example the "German Camo Dark Green" from the model color range) is like you describe: poor coverage. It takes at least 2 coats to cover.

About your starter sets.. i think all companies do them.. GW has starter sets, vallejo too. For example (ignore the store, just some random result from google)

http://www.lukestoystore.com/Vallejo-Paint-Starter-Set-of-16-Bottles_p_105.html

They also have huge sets with their whole range

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Been trying my hand at sculpting. Working on some Darkest Dungeon minis atm.

The Necromancer is still wip in regards of painting, just got done basecoating and stuff. I know the proportions are a bit wonky and the paintjob needs work but its my first sculpt. Any cc?

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>>50149490

Oh, and ignore the base, its just a placeholder for now.

>>50149510
the facehole is a bit small, but overall, its really cool!

>>50149490
It's a good start. Planning to use it in a game ?

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>>50149560

Really? I thought the facehole looks way too bulky compared to the original.

>>50149568

Actually I've been messing around with a set of rules for a Darkest Dungeon -inspired boardgame with a few friends. Gonna use this in that if we ever finish the ruleset.. Unless I start from scratch and make a new necromancer that is.

What's WIP's general opinion on Next Level Painting tutorial videos?

I really like the guy's presentation of the videos. The painting seems really solid too, although he focuses on airbrushing a bit too much for my liking.

Hey guys, just got in a bunch of secondhand minis I ordered and they're in rough shape - all the bits are here, but there's superglue all over the busted bits so they don't QUITE fit back together.
Suggestions on how to fix?

>>50144147

Are you going for the classic Collected Visions colour scheme for the Sons of Horus? If so, I'm duly impressed, since I can't think of anyone post-2008 whose painted their SoH grey rather than minty fresh.

>>50149232
>>50146954

These are Bretonnians? Jesus Christ, they look 100x better than the gormless dirt farmers in the newer (kek) plastic kit. Bless the Perry brothers for their work.

>>50149867
>he gormless dirt farmers in the newer (kek) plastic kit.

These were done by the Perrys though.

>>50149838
I actually didn't had that in mind. Pretty nice coincidence!

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>>50149102
>Wat do, /tg/?

Include them in my Unbound Imperial army.

anyone know of any commission services that

1. Don't just airbrush the entire a thing into a mess
2. Don't drybrush highlight
3. Offer quality at a sensible price?

Based in Europe or UK a preference.

No Russians

>>50150426
Check http://tabletop-basement.blogspot.nl

>>50149102
How many points is the emporer? And how much money

>>50150406
You can run them in a battleforged army now ;^)

Ya even get some nifty bonuses and the tears of chaos players.

>>50150426
It's gonna be hard to find what you're looking for, most of the time, greater quality means higher prices, especially in something as niche as miniature commission painting.

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Wip of my scout heavy bolter conversion

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IMPERATOR VULT

Now, if only it wasn't so fucking cold outside so I could spray him and and his sibling Knight.

>>50150933
:(

>>50148974
First time I'm seeing someone from /tg/ painting or even possessing those, good luck.

>>50144748

He looks great, did you use a metallic blue or a blue glaze over metal?

>>50150954
I fucking love those stubbers.

>>50151436
Why's that? I just drilled the barrel.

>>50148646
Good video link.

>>50151257
Both actually! I was experimenting with just using Scale75 alchemy metallics, but unfortunately they're too pale. Could probably get the same effect with straight silver.

>>50148363
I'd suggest making any fleshy parts actually have a flesh tone, whilst making the actual knight armour match up with whatever the color scheme of your army is. Use the eyeballs for particularly bright colors to add a contrast.

Or inversely, make the flesh match up with the rest of your daemons, and have the knight itself look toned down. Still go with the eye highlights though.

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Just got my first batch of minis. I'm gonna start with these Gobbos but I've been wondering about the coloration. Which does /tg/ like more?

>Gray, clammy skin from living in caves and only venturing out to find prey
>Classic Green skin for blending into forest and hills
>light orange/yellow skin for living in burrows on mountain tops or in deserts

>>50151715

Goddamn resize your pictures.

>>50151715
Gray would be cool, green would be easiest to paint though.
Unless I'm misinterpreting your post that might be a factor on your first batch of minis.

Check out the op for some painting guides though.
Might give you an idea on how to tackle each version, if you are interested in some inspiration.

>>50151464
Not yours in particular, I just think that the knight heavy stubber looks baddass af.

>>50151781
Ah. Yeah, stubbers are cool. And putting them on giant robots as secondary weapons is also cool.

>>50149490
This is great! What else are you planning on doing and how did you model this guy in the first place? Its the first time I've seen anyone make Darkest Dungeon stuff (you should do the Ancestor next).

So after watching a few videos, the easy way to thin paint is to put some on a palette and then dip your brush in water and then mix it. Right?

Fuck, another thing to find and get, I don't have a palette.

>>50151995
Use something that doesn't absorb water.
Like a tile, a plate, an old cd or something of the sort.

Anybody making/made any terrain? wanna share some pics?

>>50151995

Oh, I forgot, guy on warhammer video tutorials said you have to do 2 coats sometimes. Is that right? Like, let it dry then paint again over it?

>>50152038
Exactly.

>sometimes

If it isn't covering the first time.

>go out to buy varnish
>get glossy varnish
>store only has matte varnish as spray
>no point in buying because of the weather

Guess my models will just have to be shiny until spring.

>>50144748
Alpha legion or?

>>50149232
Yeah, they were some of (if not) my first models, too. I've had the billman on the far left since.. '97 or '96.

Shame their shields are so expensive. I'm going to need seven or eight of the things, and they cost like ten bucks for two on ebay. Might have to cheap out and get ones with molded icons.

>>50144748
I was wondering, do you thin down the glaze even further when doing this or use it as it is?

Also, how big of a brush do you use for applying, as the amount of paint the different brushes soak make for hugely different results with stuff like that

>>50147439
How do you get such a smooth yellow? I'm trying to paint some Seraphon yellow atm and its coming out with a nasty green look.

>>50147746
I was a NEET once too. I was stressed out all the time and have few comforts.

Now I am a wageslave. I am stressed out all the time anyway. I can buy all the toys I want but have no time to play with them. I just watch the days of my life slip away as I work late night after night, get asked to work weekends, etc.

I don't know which is worse.

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Thoughts on my Seraphon color scheme?

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So sorta rushed through it but I'm satisfied with how it turned out for just a troop. Anyways, I present Brother Purest and his many purity seals.

>>50153273
Looking mighty good.

Could've used a few more seals though, maybe like only 1 dozen more.

>>50153307
Oh, the day may come that I add more seals but for now the amount of seals I have are limited.

>>50153327
You are doing Emperor's work, most purest of brothers.

Will you just have him as a side model for display or are you actually going to use him during play as well? I'd totally put him into a Kill Team list if I were you.

>>50153373
Thats the idea. Will be playing him and for sure have him in a kill team list. All I have are death company guys, not sure which theme to go with next for the next model.

>>50153406
Which Kill Team arr you building for? If you play by HoR rules and want a silly squad overall, you could make one of them your Team Leader as a Sergeant with Jump Pack, give him a Back Banner and instead of using a traditional banner use a "boss pole" looking thing with all kinds of xenos heads piling up on top of his jump pack.

>>50153517
I am actually pretty new to 40k in general and never played kill team. I know what it is just never looked into the rules. Really I made this guy because I was getting bored of production line panting and just wanted to make a funny dude. But yeah, if I am going to get into kill team I will be playing him.

>>50153586
Ah, I see. There's basically 2 Kill Team variants, the official one and a community made one by Heralds of Ruin. GW's only allows you to take normal squad compositions, so basically choosing a Death Company Squad in your case, with the biggest differences to normal 40k being that you are limited to 200 points and have a very limited Force Organization Chart while every model counts as its own unit. There's also specialist rules you can assign to those models that let you choose a free special rule for that model.

HoR's rules are much more customizable, allowing to directly pick the models you want to use instead of having to take a whole Death Company squad and giving every model a plethora of extra rules and wargear normally not available to them while being limited at 250 points. You could technically have your team consist of a Termie Sergeant, a Death Company assaulter, a devastator with a lascannon and a Vanguard Veteran carrying a banner. Way more fluffy and open for special snowflake models if you ask me.

It's fun, you should look into it if you like to occasionally not spend 3 hours on a single match.

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>>50148363 here with a little progress. Sorry for the shit pic but I think you guys get the idea. Got a lot more sculpting work to really bond that maw to the rest of the titan but I think this is sufficient evidence to say this is going to look pretty awesome.

>>50151686

I was actually a little concerned about the whole skin/armor color. Seeing as how Daemons are mostly naked, my main color scheme for the army is gonna be what goes on their skin. I definitely agree with you that the Knight's armor color should reflect the color scheme of the army. However, I hate to do regular flesh tones for the skin on the Knight for 2 reasons:
1. I feel like normal flesh color won't go well with the very vague idea of a scheme I have in mind.
2. It's a Daemon engine of Tzeentch. Any skin on the Knight is going to be warp spawned by Tzeentch, who doesn't do normal colored skin.

Had 2 weeks off work to get my tonsils out, thought i'd get loads done and do some silvertower mini's. 6 days in and ive not even picked up a brush, i did not expect this to be so painful and debilitating. What i wouldn't give for a normal nights sleep.

>>50154214

I know what you mean, anon. I had heart surgery a few years ago and I was out of work for 3 months and I'm just like "fuck yeah I'm gonna get sooo much done!"

Nope. Even if the pain meds hadn't shortened my attention span to nothing, physical discomfort really takes away the motivation.

>>50149730
update: I've heard Easy Off Oven Cleaner is good for removing superglue, as well as some paints.

If no one has any advice I'm gonna give it a shot on one of the minis, I'll post it in whatever thread's live when I do it.

>>50154159
I'm just going to ask: how does one even paint a fully assembled knight, or most models in general, and getting into every crack? I have trouble to even paint assembled marines and usually do them piece-by-piece.

>>50154336

That's all magnetized, torso detached from the legs and the arms detach from the torso. I had to glue the carapace on for the head conversion but that's the only thing that's glued on right now.

>>50154214
youre either a little bitch, or something is wrong. That shit is not that bad

>>50154436

Can you not start shit fights in WIP please?
Thanks.

>>50154436

Well evidently i'm a little bitch. The first 2 days i couldnt sleep for more than 10-15 minutes at a time since swallowing was so painful. I'm getting 4 hours now but as soon as these pain relief meds wear off i wake up immediatly. Not to mention the constant ear ache. I'm glad you had an easier time of it.

>>50154275
I should start feeling better after 7-10 days i'm told. I cant imagine what 3 months of that shit would be like, it fucks with your head procrastinating so much, atleast i find it does.

Managed to eek out the new white dwarf for 3 nights in a row reading though so that was good!

>>50154520
nigga that aint right, is your shit infected?

>>50154436
How people react to surgery varies quite a lot. Even something as tame as tonsils (or shit, wisdom teeth) can lay one person up for weeks or even months, where another will be ready to go within a day or two.

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I'm still struggling with making faces properly, but I'm really proud of how the hair has come out for the blonde one.

>>50154705
really clean looking. They have a bit of a cartoon look which is cool. The paint may be a little thick. The eyes and glow on the plasma are kinda shit, otherwise pretty damn good

>>50154705
Maybe go with a micron pen to dot the eyes? They look very Rick and Morty-esque right now.

>>50154705
I'm sorry, anon, you did a really good, clean job.

But I can't stop laughing at mutton-hawk there.

>ಠ3ಠ OOOOOO AYE

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Rebased a Rogue Trader marine on 32mm base and preparing to add him to my Salamanders. For some reason I'm super hyped to paint this goofy looking bastard.

>>50154796
He looks like he's wearing tapdancing shoes under bell-bottoms.

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>>50154796

If you bought the old tactical squad blister box, you got several of that model - "Brother Sheer". There are at least three of them in this picture.

>>50154796
See if you can get a few more and make a whole squad of them.

Then, see if you can find an ork player and play the Battle at the Farm for a little time capsule into the past.

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Alright, so with that one black-and-gold terminator down I decided to switch and finally work on the Chaplain. Just slapping on the base coat today. Still a couple things to do I'm not decided on yet (the skull-tipped sticks hanging off his right hip, the casing colour on the plasma pistol).

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>>50154520

I ment to add, i've been looking at my ironjawz mega boss on foot. I painted the faceplate seperate from the model so i could get better access to his face, now when i re-attach the plate there is a massive join seem where the two pieces of the dinosaur thing bone is, any idea how to fix it? I must have fucked up since i presume you need to undercoat liquid greenstuff to paint over it?

>>50154705
thin as fuark

great work

>>50147585
>>50145804
>>50145546

I love /tg/ sometimes, thanks cunts.

>>50154543

Nah atleast I don't think so, I'm no spring chicken though. 35 this year, as I understand it for whatever reason it takes longer to heal than for a teenager/child getting the same procedure.

>>50154932
This is really coming along anon, surprised you got the yellow to come out as clean as it is with that black primer.

>>50155056
oh yeah, when your old that shit will rock your world

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Felt like normal horrors don't really scratch the itch of monsters or real Daemons, tried converting some. What do you guys think?

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>>50154705

>>50155081
>Don't talk to me or my thousand sons ever again

>>50155081
Oh that's a nice idea
I was thinking of making ssme horrors in the style of nyarlathotep.

>>50150954
MORE
PURITY
SEALS

>>50154705
Practice anon. Thin tip on your brush with a nice wet coat of the paint you want for an eye. Then slowly zoom in on the point you want it. Good rule to follow is to have the eye big enough so that it touches the top and lower eyelid.

>>50155139
Right? All you do is
>Take head
>Chop off top with eyes
>Flip upside down, glue to body
>Green stuff closed
>Make a throat on the bottom by pinching the GS between your fingers, round it out a lil bit
>Snip arms from shoulder bits, glue shoulders in place
All done!

>>50154767
>ಠ3ಠ OOOOOO AYE
What did he mean by this?

>>50155175
It's supposed to mean he looks like a wild Scotsman.

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Well, now I have 7 out of 27 boys and girls painted. The helmet is a little glossier than I'd like, but shit happens, my varnish will matte it out anyway.

>>50154881
They're kind of pricy on ebay considering they're mostly just a novelty to me. I got this guy for 5 dollars but they usually run in the 15-20 dollar range.

>>50155068
I wish I was that magic. I use a yellow spray primer for the bananas, plus a few layer of extremely thin Yriel Yellow.

>>50154733
Any ideas to improve the plasma glow? I was trying to capture the blast of light and heat from the coils as is fires. Maybe tighten up the dry brushing to stop it overflowing too much?

>>50154739
>>50155151
I'm practicing as much as I can on the rank and file before starting on my characters.

>>50155020
>>50154767
Cheers, I really love the goofy hair sapce wolves have

>>50155089
Magnificent!

>>50145395
First, clean your keyboard.

Second, try using a shader, maybe a watered down drakenhof nightshade on the cape, it looks really stiff. Also, I'd clean up the left hand of the mini, you accidentally got some silver paint on her glove and her fingers on the left hand sort of blend in with the glove. Maybe give the haft of the sword a little touch-up.


Otherwise, it looks really good. Nice work OP.

>>50155016

Would love some suggestion on how to paint the axe too. I've just based it leadbelcher so far and I've no idea where to go from there. For such a big weapon it seems abit shit to just do it like a normal weapon, rune fang steel bulb oil wash etc.

>>50154932
The skull sticks are rolled up scrolls.

>>50155288
>>50155288
I just think it needs to be more subtle, try glazes instead of a drybrush next time

http://handcannononline.com/blog/2011/08/05/tutorial-advanced-object-source-lighting/

>>50148974
I'm very interested to see how you work out the paint scheme. I have no idea what direction to point you in, simply because I so rarely see these models.

Godspeed OP.

>>50154159

Since you're already gotten yourself a hellmouth, might as well stick the rest of the tentacles on.

>Where?
>Wherever! Its Chaos!

I would also sculpt more flesh over the mechanical bits like the shoulder joints and hip joints.

I really like the hood look of the knights and I thought you were gonna keep that and put the head underneath it, but oh well. I could imagine the hood having some teeth going around the rim.

>I'm practicing as much as I can on the rank and file before starting on my characters.

Good idea. I followed this guide with how to do faces, may help you out.

http://www.thewaaaghstudios.com/tutorials/facepaint.html

>>50155236
Even a squad of five is pretty cool, but yeah I feel you.

I wish I'd decided to collect old lead/pewter even just a few years ago. My wallet aches.

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>>50155192
>It's supposed to mean he looks like a wild Scotsman.

If it's not Scottish, it's CRAP!

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgzfxs_if-it-s-not-scottish-it-s-crap_shortfilms

>>50155348

I thought about the tentacles but they look a little too Slaaneshi. I'm trying to make him fit in better with my Screamers. I like the flesh idea, I'll probably do that.

As for the hood, it is more recessed than it looks in that picture and I'm probably going to cut away some of that green stuff too. I basically just mashed a bunch of green stuff on it to plug the gaps so that when I do some actual sculpting later I don't just accidentally push it back inside the torso.

>>50155444
Brother Sheer has been rescued from the Warp and is ready to fight once more!

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>>50155940

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Blue Valhallan guy here

I'm not at my desk nor in the country where my desk is atm and this chimera has been bugging me and stabbing the back of my brain for a while now.
Is there anything that looks odd or isn't good as far as tank body scheme goes? And for future variants any idea for new different looking dozer blades?
I honestly just feel disappointed in how much unlimited creativity can be put in just painting a duder but when it comes to painting a metal box on wheels I just feel like there's not much else I can do. Or maybe I'm too amateur with vehicles atm. Was thinking going further with the weathering? Only done a brown drybrush on the bottom of the hull, Maybe putting some snow in cracks or something, but wouldn't it melt quickly?
Tldr how to make chimera look better

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>>50155988
platoon colours on the right side of the turret, maybe?

It seems good enough already, though. Transports aren't really supposed to be especially eye-catching.

>>50156043
How do platoon colours work? Can they be whatever they look and in what specific spots?

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>>50156098
fairly simply

If we're going by old standards, that chimera would be white company, red platoon, 4th squad. It can also be represented with a small circular badge (the ones you see on transfer sheets)

Hey does anyone have the new Sisters of Silence assembly instructions and could post a shot of them? I got some off eBay and have no instruktionz

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I'm starting to think our patron saint may ACTUALLY be a servitor.

Look at the way he moves the few seconds he's on screen. It's like he's never seen human beings before in his life.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN8tic_7M30

>>50156446
maybe he's just an awkward nerd, like 90% of everyone who plays 40k

>>50156453
I don't doubt it, I just feel bad for the guy. I'd want to tell him how much his guides have helped both get me into and improve my painting, and maybe see him loosen up a bit.

>>50156422
http://imgur.com/a/yeKEl

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what do you guys think?
Im thinking about doing some minor details like scraps against the paint and what not.

>>50156657
>http://imgur.com/a/yeKEl
thanks! you're my new best friend

>>50150933
sexy. I was gonna buy some of those myself but pussied out.

>>50156702
No problem m8

>>50156700
The face could use a wash, but you did a great job at smooth coatings and shiny gold!

>>50156704
Anvil do some great stuff for conversions, need to order some more bits soon, though it does help being a brit as I can get their stuff without being raped on postage, also their studio is only half hour from me and if you give them a heads up you can visit when ever you like

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Hey /wip/
I'm converting my Space Wolves into Skyrar's Dark Wolves at the moment and I was wondering if anyone has any cool kitbashing ideas that I might be able to use? Right now I've got a couple things on tap for them. I'm using Chaos Warrior helmets from fantasy for most of my guys, Blood Crushers of Khorne for my Thunderwolf Calvary, and I'm going to make a Blood Throne of Khorne with wolves attached for Logan Grimnar/Svane Vulfbad.

>>50156749
I would mix in some CSM bits, namely pauldrons, backpacks, and weapons. Not sure on the exact dimensions, but the chaos warrior shields might work as storm shields for anything smaller than a terminator.
>>50156700
Could use some edge highlights. Aside from that it looks like a nice, smooth paint job

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>>50156446

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My latest finished Ork. I'm still having trouble figuring out the exact amount of primer, and the exact amount of medium for thinking my paint. It's different by the pot, so I have a lot of trial and error ahead of me.

>>50156899
My general approach to thinning paints, at least GW paints, is a mix of 3:1 water to paint ratio. One drop/brushful of paint, 3 drops/brushfuls of water. Works like a charm.

You can go thicker paint for things like edge highlighting and painting rivets, or even thinner for larger areas.

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Heya friends. Never painted anything before, and I've just finished the first coat of this'n here town guard (His buddies in the back are coming later) this isn't so much a post about what's wrong with the mini, since I can see there's quite a few patches that the paint has decided to ignore.

Rather, is there anything I've done to this guy with color scheme or details (Shading out the eyes, for example) that I should avoid on the others? Thanks.

Also if anybody could confirm or deny that these splotches of missing paint are the result of too MUCH paint thinning it'd be appreciated. Still getting a hand of this stuff and I feel like that may be the problem.

Picked up a can of high gloss spray paint from Tamiya to use on my 40k vehicles. Anyone ever used this stuff before?

>>50157490
Also, apologies for the huge+sideways image. I forgot to turn off the HQ setting on my phone (Which is ironic considering the photo still looks like ass)

>>50157490
From the looks of it, you didn't prime the model before painting. Those splotches are the paint not adhering properly to the metal.

Typically people use rattle can primer, brush on primer, or gesso to give acrylic paint something to stick to.

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>>50157512
For the first time in my short life, I can truly step back and appreciate the beauty of my own stupidity.

Thanks for the quick reply. Guess it's a mistake I probably won't be making twice, at least.

>>50157569
everyone starts somewhere, don't worry about it

If you've got a local hobby shop, they'll probably have spray primer in the same area as their paints.

>>50157596
>>50157569
Or if you want to save a few bucks while learning, try Krylon's flat black primer. Just make sure you follow the instructions.

>>50152548
>goes to a store

You know, Amazon and Ebay are quite popular these days

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I'm currently working on making some bigass gun emplacements for an apocalypse game

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>>50157762
and one with a marine for scale.

>>50153076
>I work late night after night, get asked to work weekends
Found your problem. Just say no, or find a new job where you can say no.

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>>50155988

With chipping, scratch marks and mud/snow your choices are nearly unlimited for tanks.
Give one or two (i have no idea how many tanks you got) a simple camo scheme (maybe a lighter blue or a grey)

>Maybe putting some snow in cracks or something, but wouldn't it melt quickly?

In RL, tanks get pretty hot on top of their engines. Elsewhere the snow would settle.
See pic related. But keep in mind that crews usually want to keep their machines free from snow (and mud) during winter as much as possible, because once it freezes in the wrong place (for example over their viewports or in the tracks) over night they are basically fucked.

Check this video for some really easy weathering techniques.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYEnKPy7P10

That guy has lots of other (better) tutorials on his channel, but i think this one shows best how simple it really is to make even a toy-like 3€ kit look good.

Where can I find a bird head and wings that would fit a space marine body?

I want to make that Raven Guard dude from the inside cover of the 40k rulebook.

>>50157775
Awesome idea. Now get to work and cover up that flat surface with some 40k bits

>>50157790
there are a lot of problems with the industry I am in. Despite unemployment in the sector I work in being under 3% nationwide, employers have collectively learned that they can still treat their employees like shit.

Sure I could switch jobs, but it will be the same anywhere I go.

>>50143319
How do you choose a final colour scheme?

I've so many potential ones rattling about, but picking just on'es a bitch.

How do you keepyour paints from running off into unwanted places at that thinness? I already have trouble dealing with that when mixing 1,5:1.

>>50157837
Real bird head/wings or stylised helmet/jump pack?

>>50158028
Just dip the tip of the brush, don't soak the entire brush and slather it on.

>>50158025
come up with a bit of a story for your dudes and see if that offers you any guidance.

>Who are your dudes? How long have they been around?
>What makes them interesting?
>How did their faction begin?
>What are your dudes' greatest achievements?
>Any notable people or events in their history?

>>50158058
can i do one too?
I'm about to start up a Skitarii army and i don't like having crunch without the fluff.

>>50152655
No dilution, no. I put on as much as I'd do for a controlled wash, in that I try to avoid pooling unless it's a shaded recess, and try to get an even application. You kind of just push it around the model.

>>50158058
How does that help chose between khakis and camo?

As is it's a Blood Axe band with a fair bit of looted AM gear, basillisks, apc's, russ's, looted heavy weapons and grots with lasguns/helments.

>>50158083
writing lore for your dudes is always encouraged

>>50158089
>Blood Axes
How about leopard print camo? More importantly, have they looted enough AM gear and tactics that you could get away with using the AM codex instead of the Ork codex?

>Blood Axes loot SM gear
>come across "da book o fightan propa"
>put groups of nobs in 'eavy armor, with kombishootas, in a looted rhino and call it a "taktikull skwad"
>custom built flash gitz using parts from some eight different grav cannons
>"An dey don't know wot fear iz"
>uses Codex: Space Marines

>>50155072
>35
>old

Underage pls go

>>50157758
Yeah, Amazon and eBay really need supporting to keep the table top community alive in your local area.

>>50153216
Yeah your lizard man looks cool.

>>50153273
You misspelled purge anon!

>>50158146
>AM codex
Nope, besides i can mimic pretty much every IG/AM vehicle with ork rules, the Big Trakk vehicle has chimera chassis stats and aproximate weapon options

Here's the camo theme mockup.

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>>50158182
Thanks, here are some knights from the same army I'm working on

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>>50158195

>>50158211
I swear they look less thick and yellow irl, more averland sunset

Is it just me or do Secret Weapon dropper bottles get clogged super easily? I don't have this problem with Vallejo dropper bottles...

>>50158223
averland sunset is such a pretty color

>>50158223
All the colour you've got going on in t he background is messing with your camera.

Try a plain backdrop.

>>50156446
Oh holy fuck, I didn't realise that they showed Freki and Geri.

They look awesome but are probably going to be way over priced... Especially compared to very similar 3rd party models.

>>50158234
If you move paint from pot to dropper it all gets a fair fir of air during the process, you also might want to clean out new droppers before filling, the mold release agent messes with paint too.

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>>50158238
Better pic

>>50158275
Still cant see the right color, oh well.

>>50158260
what? like I bought a bottle of Secret Weapon paints (red rust... very nice color by the way!) but it clogs up between each use with dried paint inside the dropper.

Why would mold release agent be inside the paint?

>>50158288
It's just general advice if you buy empty droppers for your GW paints.

I didn't know secret weapon did paints, only though they did washes and effects.

>>50158222
I painted camo on orks once. I found it to not look a bit full and boring. Camo is designed to obscure details which is sort of the opposite of what you want to do with painting tiny figurines. Khaki/olive drab pants and white shirts might look nice and still have a military vibe.

>>50158298
they are pretty new. They've got some really nice colors, but the dropper bottles they come in clog a lot.

I've only personally tried Red Rust, a very red brown that can be a good base for either reds or browns, but I've heard a lot of good things about Tire Black, a slight off-black with a satin finish

>>50158303
The blues will be a fair bit stronger, it's just the B&C painter that has an automatic shadow tint in it's texture

>>50158319
>a slight off-black with a satin finish
Oh nice, sounds great for black armour so you can still add shadows.

>>50158327
they have an off white as well, weathered wood, that seems interesting. GW's white spray, Corax White, is also a slight off-white, but they don't seem to have it available in non-rattlecan form.

>>50151815

I used a metal armature and FiMo Air, its cheap (at least cheaper than gs) and really easy to sculpt with. I used some random bits from my bitsbox for the details like the skulls and the scroll, although I would have liked to sculpt those aswell but meh.
Next up is probably Sonorous Prophet, I've already got some ideas for that. And after that I was thinking I'd try to do some heroes. On the other hand I've got a hankering to sculpt the Collector as well...

>>50154705

I don't get why people insist on doing eyes on minis this scale. Even a great paint job like yours gets eclipsed by the googly-eyes.
Just shade them and stuff. It's not realistic to see the eyes at this scale.

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>>50156446
He looks too happy to be a servitor

>>50158438
https://youtu.be/FayBHOhucf0?t=1m27s

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>>50158146 Thank you.
> Who are your dudes? How long have they been around?
About 150 years. a relatively new offshoot of a Forge world, trying to seek out a new home with the help of some unoccupied Imp guard.
> What makes them interesting?
Not your Typical Skitarii, focus more on Digging in and holding ground over gathering data,
I.e. Capture and secure the area first, before you take samples.
> How did their faction begin?
They needed to leave on account of rising internal conflicts on their home forge world.
ever since they have been looking for a mineral rich rock to sit on.
> What are your dudes' greatest achievements?
they saved a lost and isolated IG regiment, thus they paired up. and eventually found a knight along the way.
>Any notable people or events in their history?
Not really, barring the leaving.

i had a moderate idea to base them on my favorite Champion in league. i know, how dumb of me.

i mean, satin blacks and off (and bright) whites, with bright pink blue lenses, light blue line details and stuff.
dark toned steels too.

>>50158591
oh
they are Skitarii
i forgot that :c

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>>50155089

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>>50155089

>>50150954
>not having a gasmask to spraypaint in-door
casual amateur

>>50158664
>gasmask
It's called a spray booth.

>>50158664
>not installing a jet-powered wind tunnel in your home for professional ventilation
Why even bother?

>>50158692
>hahaha so funny
except gasmasks are easy to get and are a realistic approach

as my trainer says "there is no "i can't", there's only "i don't want to""

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Now I understand why all lamenters were killed

>>50158700

>My trainer

Dude are you a fucking Pokemon?

>>50158728
hm, how do you call the guy who makes you work out, want to die, and then work out some more in gyms? in slavspeak it's "trainer".

>>50158737

Yeah it's called a personal trainer in english, I'm just having a laugh m8.

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C&C on this custodian that i've almost finished?

>>50158793
looks shiny
watch out for magpies, i'd say

>>50158725
Because they were faggots?

>>50158793
Would use in army/10

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>>50158303
I paint my boyz kharki and i think they come out pretty well.

Anyone in the UK know where's the best place for cheap 32mm bases?

I've got loads of Blood Bowl to assemble and I figure I might as well put old models on the new size.

Best I can see on ebay is about £5 for 20, which is a fair bit really. Got about 50x40mm bases for like £3.

>>50154159
You should make it like a scallop or whatever where theres a fleshy organism stuck to the inside of a shell. like, fleshy tendons and tentacles drooping down from the cockpit area into the machine (because corruption would start with the driver, lets be honest)

>>50159240
No, only GW's own and some conversion kits.
32mm is only used by GW so the markets is not that big for them.

>>50156446

CUHS-TOAD-DEES???
Is that how you say it??? I've been saying it wrong all these years

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Completed the basing last night, and a few touch ups here and there I can say he's finally done. Pretty chuffed with how he's come out, a real show piece for the army! Thanks for the help /tg. :)

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>>50159354
He looks right at home with the rest of the lads, ready to hunt some Fallen and whatever else is in the way! >:D

>>50158725
Looks good though

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C&C on my halftrakk?

I still need to work on closing the crew compartment, and maybe some work on the rear.

>>50158591
I Would like some C&C and suggestions, please.

>>50159602
if i saw a trukk like that on the table i would high five the ork player.
that looks great, but it need a little more riveting and plates of useless steel on the front.

>>50159602
Looks very orky. Well done!

Since its pretty high because of its wheels and tracks that gap between tracks and wheels looks a little odd.
Maybe you can glue some kind of fuel tanks or a box down there to fill it a little?

>>50149102
Make a Donald Trump conversion of course.

>>50159602
Good job anon. It has decent details bitz added without going overboard and cluttering it up.

>>50149102
I don't even play GW games, but i would buy the Emperor as long as the mini looks awesome. I'd prefer a FW release though.

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>>50159643
There is a nice mini you could use for its head

Just found out the windows can be removed, so they were.

>>50159620
It doesn't really show well on the picture but the body itself is already made of plates.

>>50159639
I do have a tank to stick in one side, might have som gubbinz for the other side too.

>>50159655
Yeah, it's hard to hit the balance between blasn and busy.

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>>50159602
>>50159639

I found a fuel tank it fell of a trukk, and some odd gubbin from my bitz box, think it was part of a deff dread arm.

>>50159794
Looks good!

Reposting:

Sorry if i come across like a total noob, but how do i apply varnish?

I have a can of army painters anti-shine (which is matte), but its snowing outside, so i can't spray.

I also have satin, gloss and matte varnish from vallejo in their airbrush bottles (i don't have an airbrush though).

When i tried to applied the satin varnish by brush, it felt very thick (i did shake it) and there were bubbles everywhere. Is that normal?

What exactly is the correct order? I read somewhere that gloss/satin varnish is the stuff that actually protects minis and then the matte varnish is just used to remove the shine.. is that correct?
How long will the varnish take to cure? Same as the spray?

>>50159836
Never shake paint-on varnish, that makes bubbles, stir instead.

>What exactly is the correct order? I read somewhere that gloss/satin varnish is the stuff that actually protects minis and then the matte varnish is just used to remove the shine.. is that correct?
yes
>How long will the varnish take to cure?
Depends how thickly you add it
>Same as the spray?
no, spray has solvents that evaporate faster than the medium in brush on paints.

>>50147480
>>50147362

anon is wrong, its cao cao in the Romance of the Three Kingdoms tv show

>>50159854
Thanks Anon. That explains the bubbles.

>no, spray has solvents that evaporate faster than the medium in brush on paints.

Could i mix it with airbrush thinner or some white spirit maybe?

>>50159867
No.

airbrush thinner is just to promote flow and white spirit win ruin the paint.

>>50159893
Thanks.
I tried all 3 varnishes and they are already save to touch. No visible bubbles left too. The only strange thing is that the mini with the matte varnish feels more shiny than the satin one. Only the gloss varnished mini shines as expected.

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I screwed up.
I like the claw that come out from the chariot, but those rotating blades are too freaking much. They should have been gold.

I have no experience in repainting stuff.
If I make them gold now, will it be noticable? Like, would it become too thick and lose all the details?
Should i put the chariot in degreaser and start all over?

Which wash do I apply to white surfaces? I'm beginning to paint my minis this week and I'm going with a white/red colour scheme for the most part, and washes always just look so good.
I've got a sepia wash, would that be ok or is that too brown?
Thanks for any advice!

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>>50160302

>>50160313
This looks rather complicated and it's my first time painting minis (hence why I wanted to use washes, because they looked so simple to use).
Plus I'm using Army Painter colors.
In my case would I apply the Sepia Shade first and then go over it with the white color again?

>>50160339
if u want to paint white, the secret is to NOT paint white. Use grey (as in the example, just do less steps)

>>50160354
Ahh, ok. I though I could just prime the mini white and then add a wash to keep it simple though.
Looks like I'll have to do it like this... but thanks for the advice!

>>50160383
prime light grey, wash, then layer a brighter grey :) dont get discouraged, youll make it!
Still, white is a bitch to paint and one of the harder colors to pull off. Good luck!

>>50160383
its annoying to paint white, because you can't easily highlight white. a wash will just dull the white and make it look brown. so it's generally easier to work up from grays.

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Getting there. Insomnia does wonders for productivity, though there's something to be said for macro photography's ability to show you where you fucked up.

Pretty pleased with the blonde hair. Haven't had to paint a non-space marine/fully-enclosed-helmet human in a few years, wasn't sure if I still knew how.

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'oy WIP, I put together some cardstock minis (potato-quality pic related; not printouts, 3D minis based on cardboard). Gametable quality - especially since I've never done any kind of modelling before.

Main reason for paper is wanting to make some minis, but I'm going to be sensitive to chemicals for a few years (no polyclays, or epoxies, gotta be careful with paints and glue too). Overall, it's been an interesting experiment, especially since my search-fu has failed me about paper at mini scale.

I've been looking into airdry clays, but they seem too brittle for small and thin stuff (blades, handles), so paper it is until I find something more durable. If anyone has tips on durable airdry clay, I'd appreciate them.

I'm pretty much in the deep end learning everything at once (making, painting, photos), and I highly appreciate the sticky up top, painting would've been a lot harder without it. Stay classy /tg/, and thanks for making this available.

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>>50160555
Unpainted armature and head here. Seeing a photo of the painted ones, dang, I gotta improve my painting. Practice makes perfect.

>>50160555
you can cut blades and stuff out of plasticard and stick them into airdry clay though
combine materials
don't forget you can use fabric, especially if you soak it with PVA glue (i don't think you would have problem with it), so it holds all folds and stuff

>>50160555
Not sure what your health situation means, but wouldn't wearing a pair of gloves protect you from whatever you have to stay away from?
Or are you allergic to rubber gloves as well?

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>>50159662

>>50160664
the opponent has to place 12"x1"x10' wall on the battlefield when Trump deployed

>>50160676
>Immediately renegotiate your weapons rate of fire. You now fire 200% more bullet per bullet.

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>>50149102
>>50159643
>>50159662
>>50160664

People keep saying there's an Emperor mini out but I cant seem to find it.

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EVERYONE, GET IN HERE
>>50160760
>>50160760
>>50160760

>>50160765
you can't order me around!

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>>50160781
Please?

>>50160800
no.