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WIP Painting - Converting - Sculpting General

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Thread replies: 342
Thread images: 100

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>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44 [Embed]

previous thread
>>50088193
>>50088193
>>
>get GW's made to order Kasrkin
>the sergeant comes with at least two millimetres thick mould line on his head
Is this normal? Was this how metal really was? Luckily he was bald enough to green stuff hair.
>>
>>50113353
speaking of the made to order stuff, now that its all sold out are they going to make other stuff? whats the deal?
>>
>>50113353
So, these orders have started coming in I guess?
>>
>>50113481

Apparently it wasn't made to order at all, they just ran a limited run of some old minis to see if they'd sell.
>>
>>50113571
They came in on Thursday for me.
>>50113481
I've heard the plan is to do themes but the employee I was talking to said he had no idea what or when they were going to more, just that they were.
>>
How to successfully magnetize burst cannons without tearing a hole through them? The mount point is right on a seam.
>>
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>>
>>50112035
>>50112009
To not make a Winter/Arctic base too overpowering, you can do what i always do;

I always start with a bit of texture paint or sand on the base to create a Ground floor, then basecoat with a turqoise, shade it, then drybrush my way up to White from turqoise. After that, i use pigment to create a frosty effect. After that, i use Snow effects in small piles.

This gives far more weight to the Snow that is, and makes it less overwhelming.
>>
>>50113594
Damn, I haven't even got an email for my order yet. Small one too.
>>
>>50113618
beautiful work, anon
>>
>>50113618
I really like it, but do you think, regarding the blood effect, that maybe it's a bit too smeared out? I think you should add one clear line of blood going down from his forehead, it gives it a source of origination and makes it a bit more understandable.
>>50113728
I am fucking DYING to go back home, buy some clear resin and some snow texture/powdered glass and wrap these bases up.
>>
Guys, do you know a good tutorial for white fur? (like a cat for example?) I can't find shit on yt it seems. Pls hlp
>>
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>>50113353
Pic related is the original one.
I got him from ebay and still need to strip him, but seeing how he was painted, i doubt the previous owner would have bothered with mold lines too much.

Maybe they just used the old mold without repairing/replacing it and it simple wore out back then.
>>
>>50113594
Themes make most sense actually. It also seems likely since they started with guard-only. (Why not start with Space Marines... who knows)

>>50113618
Fucking awesome. For how long are you painting miniatures?
>>
>>50113804
I know what you mean. However, there are clear lines on the hidden side of the nose and face
>>
>>50113875
Around 4 years. I don't play, though, so I'm used to painting few detailed miniatures.
>>
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I'm trying out something different for my Custodes.

Its only at the basecoat stage so far.
>>
>>50113966
reminds of the sons of horus justaerin color scheme.
>>
>>50113966
That mold line on his boot though. Fix it while you can.
>>
>>50113966

You missed a few spots while applying the gold
>>
So i just primed some maroons with army painters spray primer. But i missed some parts, behind guns and stuff.
Would there be some wired problem or interaction if i covered those parts up with some vallejo polyurethane primer black?
>>
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>>50114034
its the design of the boot, they've got a kind of ridge running down the middle.
>>
Question from a newblood. If I'm painting stuff like Blood Angels and Bloodletters am I better
A.) Priming black and painting base coats
B.) Priming red for the base
C.) Priming black and then spraying red
Because I've seen all 3 methods listed and I'm unsure of what to use.
>>
>>50114388
Priming red or white is probably your best bet if you want it to be a strong or bright red. Prime it black and base it red if you want it to be a darker red. It depends on the results you want, but most likely you want a strong red, so pick a red primer.
>>
>>50114388
From my personal experiences painting red by brush over a black (sprayed on) primer I would go with option B.

A.) Takes more time, higher chance of clogging up details as you apply multiple (thinned) layers of red to get good coverage over the black. I don't mean to say it's impossible, but rather there's just more room for error with regards to getting splotchy results, poor coverage, or apply too many coats in search of good coverage.

B.) Bit more expensive as you have to buy a red spray primer. Honestly these days I always prime in the colour the majority of the model will be. My Imperial Fists get yellow spray primer, etc.

C.) You can do this if you have a can of black spray primer but regular red paint. Just be careful about clogging up the details.
>>
>>50114388

I'd prime brown, and then paint the red. It gives a better base as if you do black, but its also darker than red.
>>
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Dragon's done
>>
>>50114816
looks fukken sick, good job mate
>>
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>>50114816
The armor is copper, but ended up looking really brown in the pictures
>>
So to what temperature I can prime without isses? It's getting cold lately.
>>
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The Shadow Legion grows. Going to use them in stuff like Frostgrave and Song of Blades and Heroes, maybe Heroquest.

Big guy is a Heroclix-type model, so I swapped out his floppy sword for one made from plasticard. Strange guy on the end is from the D&D Fantasy Adventure Boardgame, not much detail on him so I tried to pick out around his hood a little.
>>
>>50114831

I was thinking of doing something similar but with screaming faces instead of a glow

Good execution!
>>
>>50114831
Really, really nice. But maybe I would try to make the gem perfectly round and smooth, since it's really visible
>>
>>50110079

So glad i haven't fucked it up yet. We'll see how i do with putty work. Hows the pose so far?
>>
>>50110079
>>50117082
>>
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>>50117589
Now the motherships done I'm painting up the Voidgates that go with it, I'm going to have to paint about 9 of these stupid things for my fleet and I'm getting bored half way through one.
>>
Guys, what wash should i use for a dark red power armor (Word Bearers)? Brown? Black? Red maybe?
>>
How do you strip off paint off of a single point on a model without messing up the paint on the rest of the model? I was trying to put stripes on a model and ended up adding too much paint trying to fix them up and now the paint is thick and obscuring the details on the model.
>>
>>50117667
I USA devland mud for my khorne guys
>>
I need a better desk setup. Painting all these fine details is hurting my back
>>
>>50117667
mix a little reikland fleshshade with some of the red shade
>>
>>50117667
Agrax Earthshade works the best, or a similar brown shade. If you use red shade it'll blend in too much. Go in for Carroburg Crimson if you want a slightly more purple shade.
>>
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DKOK guy from the earlier thread, progress on one of my gun placements, sculpted some sand bags, the base is temporary, getting bigger ones for these. Sorry for bad lighting, its already night here and i have shit for lamps
>>
>>50114926
That's good question. I have no idea, but it bothers me as well.
>>
>>50118077
looks very dark despite the visible highlights

why are they so glossy? did you varnish them for a wash?
>>
>>50114926
use an airbrush with a bottle of surface primer and flow improver, and not a rattlecan, and things will go much much better in many different temperatures.
>>
>>50118119
i have a shitty cellphone camera that really picks up on highlights and leaving everything else dark, shitty lighting doesnt really help either, no varnish. IRL they dont look glossy at all, ill try to get some better pics tomorrow, also gonna add some barbed wire when the bases arrive.
>>
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This guy is a complete basketcase.

First off, he was leaning like fuck and his spear wasn't straight. So I do the thing the Reaper Bones FAQ suggests, and put him in boiling water to straighten before leaving in ice water. Except after a couple of weeks on my desk he's basically gone back, hence the convenient piece of slate.

Attempted to paint straight basecoats on as recommended, but the coverage is awful. I've also misidentified the fur on his back as chainmail, but with him having a light brown horse body and dark brown hair and tail, I'm stuck for what to paint that.
>>
>>50118217

That's just a meme, always wash your minis and prime them.
>>
Are Reaper Bones minis low quality sculpts or casts? I've seen dozens of pictures of them and they never look great. It can't just be the painters...
>>
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The Burning of Properos box broke me, so I'm gonna start an Iron Warriors army.

Here's the test scheme that I whipped up, I'm pretty inexperienced with metallic colors and weathering, but I think this is acceptable and pretty simple to paint en-mass.
>>
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>>50118346
They are rough when the detail is too small, so the best option is to buyy the bigger ones, which are amazing for a good price. This is one I painted quite some time ago
>>
does anyone have any links to open source laser cut terrain stuff?

A local store is getting setup, but they have nothing in the score or traditional tabletop terrain pieces.
>>
>>50113481
They published on their fb oage some time ago, asking what SM/CSM old models the fans wanted to see. Many peoplz asked for the Diaz Daemonettes, I saw some Johnnies lost in the mass of sweating neckbeard though.
So I guess they're looking at their options and choosing carefully which models to produce.
>>
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Fuck it, they're finally done after 2 months, Khornate Wulfen count-as.

Found a lot of new color recipes while painting these guys, pretty happy with the red and the flesh color
>>
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>>50118021
>>50117823
>>50117778

Thanks. I mixed Agrax with a little vallejo flesh shade. I think it turned out quite well.
>>
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So I'm basically done with my unit of Saurus knights, and I'm mostly happy with how they turned out.

Except for the feathers on the leader's mount's headdress. I kinda hate those, but I don't know what I should do with those.
>>
>>50118129
Or just keep a bottle of vallejo primer and use it with a brush if the weather prevents you from using a can.
>>
>>50118394
howAmISupposedToCompeteWithThis.jpg
>>
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Is the rust effect good enough? I followed Duncan's turorial but I feel like the Typhus Corrosion should have been thicker to get a better finish.
>>
>>50118129
>>50118551
Yeah, but it's not about ,,what to do when I can't" but rather ,,when I can". Apart from hot, dry summer days, of course.
>>
>>50118549
I like them m80. Those bases are nice, and it would be good to hear more about how you did them.
>>
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>>50118756
I followed the color recommendations on the box pretty close, except for mixing instead of buying paints.

light grey base for the stone. Wash in 'greenshade' (in my case 1 to 1 mix of biel-tan and drakenoff nightshade), then dry brush with a pure white.
Dirt/sand is dryad bark (i used incubus darkness mixed with dark brown, gives that very dark greyish green brown), thin layer of lorean forest, then a lot of drybrushing with a mix of khaki and zanthrid dust (the box says Tyrant skull, i found the mix matched the color well).
Go all over on the drybrushing and heavier than you do with normal highlighting as the drybrush color is the main color that you see though into the recesses.
the designs are just dark blue with layered highlights.

another pick showing how the feathers that I don't like a little better
>>
>>50118549
Everytime I see anything from this army it looks like a children's coloring book...sorry buddy.
>>
>>50118570
It looks like a bit of rust. If you want heavy rust, go over it again. There is no "good" or "bad" rust. Just little and alot.
>>
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>>50118968
the bases by themselves. The thicker white is where I tried painting white rather than drybrushing.
>>
So, I got gifted an airbrush for my birthday. Any good guides for beginners out there on how to use one properly, and tips for maintenance and cleaning? I'm nervous as hell about using it for the first time.
>>
>>50119209
Don't buy expensive airbrush cleaner. Use IPA (isoproyl alcohol) instead. Its way cheaper.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_imma6_XhA
>>
>>50119272
I'd get a small bottle, the added surfactants and such are very useful if you've got gunk in your brush that pure IPA won't get loose.
>>
>>50118346

BUy the metal ones instead of the white rubber crap
>>
>>50118394
Fucking sexy, love the NMM
>>
>>50113264
To the Anon who had the yellow painted Imperial Fist, that posted Tuesday or Wednesday? What were the colors you used for those fist?
>>
>>50118346
They aren't good sculpts.
Most bigger monsters and creatures are "good enough" though. Great even if you consider their price.
Reapers metal minis are nice and they aren't that expensive either, so i'd rather pay $5 for a human sized metal mini with good detail than buying 2 for 2,50 each but with mediocre detail (and bendy/rubber-ish material) but maybe you just need 20 cheap orc/goblin/henchmen or somehting, then the cheap alternative is acceptable too.
>>
>>50119412
>They aren't good sculpts.
Replace sculpts with "casts". The sculpts of most reaper minis is good or even very good.
>>
>>50118979
this army as in lizardmen, or my army in particular when I've posted here?
>>
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Please talk me out of giving this guy a Nuln Oil/Agrax wash.

Do I paint his sword? Do I just paint him like the rest? >>50115143
>>
>>50119973
if you have to wash him, use a green wash
>>
How efficient is Agrellan Earth? I hear you're supposed to glob it pretty thick, will one small pot last me ~50 bases or should I buy more?
>>
>>50120042

Can't work out if I should paint the sword either way.
>>
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>>50110764
Did the head and tabard-thing. I think I'm happy to stop here and start working on the base.
>>
>>50120190
Lookin' smooth anon.
>>
>>50120145
depends on how thick you want to go, but if you have one of the newer pots (the big ones), it should easily last you 50 bases.
>>
>>50119973
if you're giving him a wash at all, you might just wanna go with a green, look up what other people have done with em
>>
>>50113264
Quick question. I traded some stuff for the mark 3 space marines from the new plastic Horus Heresy box but I don't have the instructions for them. I'm dumb and can't tell which arms are for which guns. Would someone mind taking a picture of the book for me?
>>
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>>50119272
>>50119322
Thanks m80s.
>mfw using an airbrush for the first time
I honestly don't know how I've gone so long without one. Fucking crazy.

>>50120190
I'd change the bolter casing to another colour, personally. Help break up the black a bit more.
>>
>>50118394

What mini is that? Awesome work bro. I envy your skill.
>>
>>50121321
reaper storm giant
>>
>>50118374
Looks nice. More highlights on focus spots like Gun and face.
>>
>>50118570
You might want to make it slightly wider zones, otherwise people might miss it.
>>50119973
Do some OSL on the Ground and tombstone.
>>50120190
Very clean, possibly too clean. Don't make the bases too bright or visually interesting or you'll kill the mini.
>>
>>50117082
Not bad at all., I like where this is going.
And that starting survivor makes me jelly.
>>
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Is there any manufacturer who makes helmets in the style of the FW plague marine ones? Preferably in non-corrupt form.
>>
>>50121659
I have a similar question, im looking to make my Tau Ethrenal HQ a special character with a JoJo-esque stand, what are some sites that could have humanoid monster characters in the right scale/size?
>>
>>50121659
Oh and i think maybe Puppetswar has.
>>
so I'm nearing the highlighting stage on my carnasaur, and part of me is saying I should do a really good detail job on the scales as it's my big centerpiece model.
The other part is saying that's a shitload of scales and just drybrush the damn thing.
>>
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>>50113264
How do I fix this.
>>
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>>50122362
Please help
>>
>>50122362
>>50122385
What did you do? If it's paint then just strip the model.
>>
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>>50122385
>>
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>>50122362
>>50122385
>>50122417


>>50122398
It's primer
>>
>>50122417
>>50122456
okay strip it.
You can try again, be careful to shake well and make sure to spray at the right distance, the can should say what that is.
Looks like you prayed from too far.
>>
>>50114926
ditto this, but get hotter down 'ere
>>
This might be retarded but is there a 'recommended paints' or 'essential paints' list somewhere? I'm probably gonna start buying most of the stuff i need soon and i was just wondering if there are any paints you cant live without
>>
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So, basing. I wanted to put some tall grass tufts on the base here, but I have never actually used the stuff before. What kind of glue do you use to attach it to the base? I keep seeing to use white glue for the grass flocking, but I want tall reed like stands and that doesn't seem like it will stand up to being played with too well.

>>50117082
You're braver than I am, that's for sure. The results are looking damn good so far, though. I really like that pose, it's really dynamic.
>>
>>50120810
>mark 3 space marines from the new plastic Horus Heresy box but I don't have the instructions for them. I'm dumb and can't tell which arms are for which guns. Would someone mind taking a picture of the book for me?

It's your lucky day, anon.
>>
>>50117589
I'd like to see this one from the top, if you have a pic
>>
>>50122932
i use dis for da primin
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Flat-Gray-Primer-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-249088/100670412
and i use model color for layerin
but da citadel paints are nice to
>>
>>50122456
Jeez, how the hell did your primer fuck up this badly. Last time I saw something looking like that was some random video on youtube involving some shitty plastic toys and a blowtorch.
>>
Probably starting a Cult Mechanicus army soon, thinking of using this chromatic/metallic kind of green/blue coloring for them that people like to use for 30k Alpha Legion marines.

How do I get that effect? And how would you go about doing the Tech-Priest Dominus' and Datasmiths' robes with that kind of paintjob? It would appear kind of silly to use that shiny, rainbowy metal color on cloth.

Would something like that even look good on AdMech units?
>>
>>50122456
What the fug did you do anon? Is that primer or has the miniature been melted with a solvent?
>>
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>>50123371
>>
>>50122996
Anyone got the Mk.4 Version for this? (Betrayal at Calth?)
>>
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>>50124085
>Anyone got the Mk.4 Version for this? (Betrayal at Calth?)

I do, but at 12MB, it exceeds the chan's file size limit. I had to use Mediafire:

https://www.mediafire.com/?jcejmyr3no2llid
>>
What're the best primers for:

>red

>metal

>black

>grey

>white

?
>>
>>50117413
>>50117082
>Excuse me ma'am, but do you have a moment to talk about Monster Jesus?
>>
>>50122456
Papa Nurgle approves young one...
>>
>>50118077
FOR THE EMPEROR
>>
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>>50120190
Did the base, got some good feedback about it. On the next nine I'll make it more matte and a lighter metal or gray to contrast with the veterans' black.
>>
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>>50118537
I stick to an Agrax or Nuln oil wash when I wash my reds.
>>
How do you guys butcher up bodies for Warhammer, specifically? Looking to make some Marine bodies.

I'm not too experiencing with greenstuffing but I'm assuming it requires that and a lot of cutting? Where do you know where to cut?
>>
>>50124408
all depends on how dark you want the colors to be.
black primer=dark colors.
white primer=light colors
grey=in the middle
or you can use the many different types of colored primers. for red, red primer might be the best. same with using metallic primers for metal colors.
>>
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I'm thinking of converting 20 of Mark 3 guys from the Prospero box into counts-as Sternguard for my Flesh Tearers. I plan on decking them out in all the shiny bits and bobbles I've accumulated building my army so far (ritual flaying knives, sarissas from the Rogue Trader days, etc.) to make them look a tad bit more like veterans.

However, one thing I can't decide on is whether I should leave the helmets like all the rest of my army or paint skulls on them like in pic related.

What do you guys think? To stupid, or just stupid enough?
>>
>>50125489
If you are talking about reposing marines just cut them apart at the joints.
Then use a bit of wire to repose them, if necessary cut them of at an angle to bend a knee or an arm.
Then you usually just have to resculpt the soft armor on marines, sometimes you'll probably have to fix a kneepad or something too.
Not a big deal though. Takes a tiny bit of practice, but a wet finger is all you need to smooth GS and a knife is all you need to score the ridges and cut off the excess/neaten the edges of your sculpt.
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>>50125683
>What do you guys think? To stupid, or just stupid enough?
Neither. Just looks a lot like Night lords at a glance.
Might be a cool way to distinguish your sternguard though.
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>>50125709
>Might be a cool way to distinguish your sternguard though.
That's more or less my intention. I'm trying to make it easy for my opponents to know that these guys are hot shit as soon as they hit the table.

To my knowledge the Flesh Tearers don't decorate their Sternguard in any specific way so I'm trying to find little ways to make these guys look tougher than your average Tactical.
>>
>>50125694

Specifically I'm talking about corpses. Like the ones they do in Forgeworld Dioramas? I assume it's the same method?
>>
if the guy wondering what gold to use is still around, this is that retributor armour base gold.

to everyone else, here is my model based with retributor armour base gold.
>>
>>50125754
Oh, yeah. The same thing completely.
If you are trying to do a guy striking a saturday night life pose or lying around dead doesn't matter. The same principles apply.
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>>50122498
>>50123327
>>50123385

They sat in a jar for several weeks
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>>50126313
a jar of WHAT, anon!?
>>
Halp.

My paint thinner separated from the paint in my make shift wet pallet Tupperware after leaving it alone for a day. And then when I mixed it I think it got even more water from the pallet and became even thinner. This was the first time I used paint thinner. What happened? What did I do wrong?
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>>50126357
50/50 split of this and water
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>>50126397
>>50122362
>>50122385
>>50122417

Well, you might be fucked. You probably should have taken a toothbrush to the models while they were fresh out of the Simple Green. And a 2-day bath would have been plenty...

Now that they're dry, I'm not sure scrubbing will save them.
>>
>>50126397

Redo the soaking process, take them out after 24 hours and clean them with a used toothbrush under a lukewarm running tap. Simple Green shouldn't damage the plastic but should separate the primer and super glue.

Did you buy them second-hand? I'd trash the ones gooped in primer.
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>>50126421

Yeah I tried to tell my brother to get them out of the jar sooner (these are his models not mine) but he didn't.

Apparently he bought some Army Painter primer and it fuck up, so he put them in a jar and forgot about then. I would remind him about it and then he would forget again.

Now I'm trying to help him clean up some of his models. I've got some paint thinner anything else you suggest.
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>>50126499
the first time i used armypainter primer i sprayed from too far away and it got all gritty.
it is also very hard to strip, a lot harder than brush primer or rustoleum.
>>
>>50126499

Don't use paint thinner it will damage the plastic. It's Simple Green or bust.

Dude if your brother can't handle fucking spray paint, buy acrylic gesso. You literally cannot fuck up with gesso.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso
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>>50126489
>>50126518

So you think resoaking it work
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Just finished my first model and want a bit of critique, the blending on the force sword looks better in the photo than what I feel it does close up, advice on getting a smoother blend?I see the sudden transition of colour too much.
Planning to move it to another base once I decide on an environment
>>
>>50118570
For something that's rusted very slowly over a very long it's about right.

For more aggressive old rust you need more texture.

For recent aggressive rust you need more orange both drybrush and washed into the cracks.
>>
>>50126560

Yeah, its the only option you have m80
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>>50118570
typhus corrosion and ryza rust is a good beginners rust

if you want to progress you need to look at painting rust with multiple shades of oranges, browns, reds, etc.

also i think rust tends to build up more in recesses, whereas you have the rust on the edges- the edges come into contact with things more often, and thus scrape to clean metal.

my attempt but i think this was before cleaning it up with drybrushing etc
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>>50126563
>a bit of critique

How about not using a 5,37mb 9072x4032 pic. I'm not even on my phone but it took ages to load.

The sword looks good, but i might look better if the medium colored parts would be equally long as the light and dark blue parts. Hope that makes sense.
>>
>>50126397
>50/50 split of this and water
don't mix it with water, use it straight

Simple green isn't going to harm plastic, don't dilute it. You're just making it worse at stripping the paint.
>>
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>>50125084
Looks noice, have more pictures?

Added more sandbags and took better pictures, also nearly finished death rider, need more highlight and cleanup
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>>50126792
first HWT i did, then six months on, and six months on again.
>6.8mb
jesus man
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>>50126833
lighting kinda fucks it up but looks cool regardless, saved it as a PNG out of a habit
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>>50118526
>Khornate Wulfen
>>
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Hey, starting up some harlequins and mocked together a rough colour scheme for them so I thought I'd run it by you folks.
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>>50126626
100/0 you retarded fuck
>>
>>50126669
Apologies about the picture size, just went highest quality on phone. I see what you mean about the blending, it does transition very rapidly and should be more gradually. Thanks for that.
>>
>>50126313
>for several weeks
Fuck that shit. Brake fluid for 30-45 minutes is enough, just don't be an idiot around that shit and take basic safety measures.
>>
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>>50119388
this one?
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Am i being a retard or are decals for space marine shoulder pads a nightmare to apply?
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im spamming this here too because i really cant find someone who can help me.

Do you guys have any idea of what base color they used for this pattern of flecktarn? there is something that get close in citadel or vallejo paints/washes?
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I'm working on this big bastard today. I have no idea what I'm going to paint the Tassels or cloak with, any suggestions?
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>>50127570

Looks like a leather brown like Army Painter makes, covered in spots of black and something akin to Ryza Rust, which is orange with a hint of brown in it.
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>>50127575

They are decorative, so leather should work. If you're going Salamanders, you can put some sigils on it too.
>>
>>50127570
Looks very close to "autumn oak leaf" ss pattern.

http://desu-usergeneratedcontent.xyz/tg/image/1446/00/1446005056324.pdf

Maybe thats helpful for you.

There is also the "smoke pattern" which looks similar in its autumn version:
http://www.artizandesigns.com/guides/new/painters%20guide%201939%20German%20Rauchtarn%20autumn.gif
>>
>>50127590
He's Alpha Legion, I haven't painted the head yet.
>>
>>50127568
Nope, you are fine, the decals just suck. A trick to make them a little more flexible and easier to apply is to use airbrush thinner from Vallejo to soak them. I don't know why, a buddy of mine said he does it, I tried it and it works.
>>
>>50127620

Micro sol & set are specifically made for that purpose.
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>>50127581
>leather brown like Army Painter makes
i need to give it a look, thanks! And ryza dust you say? i used different oranges in my tests but ryza could work really well if i menage to water it down enough.
>>50127606
I think thats an inveted flecktarn pattern, something that mixes the SS pea dot pattern and the early 2000 german flecktarn with those oranges. which is actually pretty cool


uhm, do you guys think a steel legion drab with a agrax wash or a camoshade could work too?
>>
>>50127620
I have some thinner left, i'll give it a try. Thanks for the tipp!

>>50127639
That i would have to order which takes a while.. so i'd rather paint the legion symbol as a freehand.

Thanks though!
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>>50127650
Its really hard to tell. I'd rather go with some kind of field grey (a more green-ish color) as a base than with steel legion drab, but maybe my screen is a little misleading.

Do you have no old "test" mini? Maybe apply the camo to a primed plastic spoon first if you don't have one to be sure.
>>
>>50127672
oh, well damn anon the spoon idea is superb, i was using this poor cadian a friend lend me for testing and the poor thing is starting to look like a bloated eldrich abomination with all the non thinned paint i slapped on it.
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>>50127568
If you haven't watched it already: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I36AWCdNJCY
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>>50113264
my first army, fucking kill me
>>
>>50127952

It's alright
>>
>>50127952
Doesn't look to bad. Base the suits and give your sand a bit of dark wash/bright drybrush to make it less flat and the whole group will look great.
>>
>>50127952
Granted there's a lot of room for improvement but if you drybrushed up some proper basing for them they would look 300% better.
>>
How long should I leave Army Painter sprays to dry for
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It's hard to tell on a picture, but is this paint looking pretty thick? Had terrible trouble even getting it to stick despite obviously having primer and thinned it down to a point where I needed to apply like 4 layers to even notice it everywhere and yet it seems a bit cloggy.
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First kill team done
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>>50127952
Please stop smoking anon, we worry about you.
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>>50127952
What happened with the white battlesuit. {spoiler} What keyboard is that.
>>
>>50127570
Been looking to do a camo pattern on my warzone Bauhaus somewhat like that to break up all the reds of their uniforms and armour, this picture will be very helpful as a scale reference. Thanks anon.
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>>50123020
>>
>>50126560
Yeah, what happened is the simple green made the paint foam up a bit, and leaving it in there and letting it dry made the paint set up in that state. should hav brushed it off immediately after taking it out. Just put it in full strength simple green again and don't forget about it.
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>>50127180
I think so yeah?
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>>50128964
Thanks, these look so good. Excellent choice of color palette.
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So my Army Painter Plate Metal spray splurted out near the end when it had been spraying fine before hand, anyone know what caused this and any solutions.
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>>50129360
Looks like some paint droplets built up on the nozzle while spraying and that eventually let go.

Could have been caused by the humidity or some dirt on the nozzle opening (from previous times spraying for instance).
Can't really prevent it, but you can keep an eye on it and wipe it off occasionally to make sure the build-up doesn't go too far.
Cleaning the spray head each time you use it would also help stop it from happening again.
>>
>>50129360
Have you been clearing the nozzle regularly?
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>>50129458
this is literally the first time I used it
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>>50126599
>>50128971

Thanks.
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>>50129334
Thanks, aside from all the tiny details this scheme is pretty straightforward to do, being able to prime everything purple with a spray can saves me so much time.
Army painter primer does seem to be a bit hit and miss though in regards to it actually going on ok.
>>
>>50113264
can I just water down chaos black to use as a nuln oil wash or is it that different
>>
>>50129304
>Averland Sunset over white basecoat (usually 2 thin coats)
>glaze Lamenters Yellow
>wash Agrax a lot in the deeper grooves and 1:1 with water on the flats
>edgehighlight/weather as you please
>use Purity Seal Varnish, to get rid of the extreme shine
>>
Just ordered some stuff from a nice person from china. Its the first time i did this. What can i expect?
>>
>>50130398
Depends in whom you ordered from
>>
>>50130407
>>50130398
Yeah it really depends on which chinaman and which kit. The quality of their casts and resin varies too much to give one answer.
>>
>>50130407
I think its Z. Someone in here gave me the contact email when i asked a question about Lokhir Fellheart, so if you are reading this: Thanks.
I didn't ask for the name of the china guy so maybe it was someone else. $3 for the mini and $3 for shipping isn't to much damage if it goes wrong though.
>>
>>50113264
Are there any youtube terrain tutors other than TheTerrainTutor worth watching?

I want to start with basics, fences, boxes, small trees. Stuff that is easily made and can be used in many games.
>>
>>50113618
He's looking quite palid, anon. I love the cool shadows you have, but he's got some death-flesh going on.
Also, how about some texture on the cross? A soft hatch would give it an embroidered effect.

>>50113966
Breddy gud. What are you gonna do for the eye lenses? I vote for green-blue.

>>50117413
His center of balance is shifted, so he looks like he's gonna tumble. Turn out his left foot to give his left side more support as it moves forward. Also, the left hand looks too bent forward. He looks really cool!!

>>50118549
Pretty nice! Your sharp edges (spearhead, claws) could use some extreme edge highlighting though.

>>50122456
S-spongebob??

>>50126563
Drill those pipes.

>>50127575
Creamy white leather with bronze metal, or black with silver metal.
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>>50130499
CommisarGamza- make trash from terrain series
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>>50130531
but those pipes are antennae
>>
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A /wip/ Nurgle sorcerer kitbash/conversion I did this morning.

Thoughts?
>>
What shade would be best for dipping Blood Axe Orks? I want to see if it works as well as I see it can on Beastmen & Tyranids.
>>
>>50130552
Fast, without useless talking, cool ideas.
That's exactly what I've been looking for, thanks mate.
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What replaced foundation paints with the name overhaul? Layer?
>>
>>50130827
PURPLE
CAMOUFLAGE
>>
>>50131689
Are we talking about the paints with the extra pigment that give really good coverage? Those are 'Base' now. Things like Khorne Red, Bugman's Glow, Averland Sunset, Naggaroth Night, etc.
>>
What should I work on today after I eat some food?

>continue doing detailing and cleanup on DV DA tacticals I started the other day
>airbrush my DV chosen blue
>GS and conversion work for some other WIP in Progress projects
>strip paint off some dudes that need to be redone, start doing the details on their 20 brothers
>>
>>50131689
Base.
>>
>>50128573
damn, nice job on the Minotaur shoulder badge.
>>
>>50128573
Neat job
>>
>>50131740
paint stripping
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>>50128573
Nice job, how did you do the snow / slush on the bases?
>>
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>>50129360
Here's what they ended up as
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>>50129360
>>
>>50132014
Mold line on the top of the back pack on the right-hand side model.
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>>50132094
Theyre test models so I don't care about mould lines, and they're tests for a 30k army so they're condition matters even less
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got some work done on my land raider, fitted the extra armour and sponson on the other side and made the first piece of replacement armour for the underside
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>>50131930
baking soda + pve glue
easy to make and cheap as fuck
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>assembling BoP
>first box of minis ever
>glue on the head case before I glue on the terminator head
GOD
FUCKING
DAMNIT

What do you guys recommend to dissolve super glue? I wasn't using plastic glue so I'm not completely fucked
>>
>>50128909
Not him, but the keyboard's a Razer BlackWidow. Looks like one of the backlight models; I've got the first run from before they introduced them.

>>50127952
Some of your models are good. Some are messier. You'll get better, don't worry.
>>
>>50132919
Cold can make super glue brittle. The Castol Super Clean I use to strip paint off minis also dissolves super glue.
>>
I've heard on here that sable brushes are very good, but all the acrylic brushes are made with synthetic hairs. Is there a reason for this? The only sable hair brushes I found at my local store are watercolor
>>
>>50130667
i like it
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>>50133058
so an overnight stay in the freezer and I'll probably be able to split the parts apart with a knife?
>>
>>50130468
Ya that was me. I got a greater bloodthirster of khorne and some slaughterpriests from him. All casts were great quality, the slaughterpriest with hackblade is indistinguishable from his GW cousin which I got from the WD. But, as I said before, some people report some horrible miscasts as well. Depends on the mold he uses, if its a fresh one etc... Wishing you luck! And don't freak out if he doesn't send you a tracking no, or if the tracking number reports your stuff as being in new Zealand or whatever. It will take some time, but it will arrive. If you want to look further into recasts, Google yoyhammer.
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got a beginner question, i have assembled my first unit but i have not stuck them to bases as i want to do bases separate, what is the base way to paint a model that doesn't have a base attach to it. iv seen people just putty them on top of a can or w/e but wouldn't that make painting the feet difficult? any feedback is appreciated
>>
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First time painting in 3 years. What do you guys think?
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>>50133177
Try it for an hour in the freezer first, if that doesn't make it brittle enough to pop off with a hobby knife then do it overnight. Most of what I've read is people leaving it in the freezer for their work-day and then disassembling it when they get back from work.
>>
>>50133241
>always remember to thin your paints
on another note, is it glossy or is that just the camera?
>>
>>50133214
Drill holes into the feet, put some wire in and stick them into a piece of cork.
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>>50133270
ok, but what if the model is standing on one foot and he is in a jumping motion so only hes toes are touching the base. wouldn't it be difficult to drill holes without fucking the miniature up.

pic related
>>
>>50133268
Shitty camera and varnish.
>>
>>50132919
There's a lot of water locked into superglue as it sets, which expands quite a bit in the freezer and destroys the bond. An hour should be plenty, especially for a small area.

Just remember to put stuff into bags as you don't want to lose bits.
>>
>>50133328
What's wrong with your faaaaace?
>>
>>50133328
Erm I guess especially then you would like to pin his foot into the base as he wouldn't get enough contact to glue properly? Just don't drill to deep 1mm should be enough.
>>
>>50133424
ok thnks
>>
>>50125207
3d printed shoulder pads?
>>
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>>50133241
>>
>>50133241

Lucius the Extremely Greasy
>>
>>50133493
Yeah, got them off of Shapeways. They are the highest quality of 3d print offered but there's still a slight grain to them. I had to take a file and make sure they were smooth before priming them. I'm so happy with them I ordered some of the IF Breacher Shields next. I'll be using them to turn some of my BoP Mk 3 marines into Breachers!
>>
>>50114816
he fucking screams the 80's, I love him!
>>
>>50118526
Do you have more Khorne Dogs?
>>
>>50134053
D'ya like dags?
>>
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1st quarter of my Dryads. Not sure how to base them yet.
>>
How do I use masters soap to restore a brush? I bought some and worked it into a larger on the bristles before rinsing them and leaving them to dry, anything else I should do? I'm new to brush maintenance
>>
>>50134462

Long pale green grass with red flowers in it
>>
>>50134525

I use lukewarm water to soak my brush, then rub all sides of the hair onto the brush soap and lather it up. Doing this a couple of times after using the brush will slowly return its luster and rinse out loose pigment. It won't take the pigment out of the ferrule in large amounts though, if the ferrule is completely fucked you now own a drybrush.
>>
>>50134553
>>50134462
Short colorful red trees with green seeds on it
>>
>>50128573
how did you do the tiles? i'm trying to do some prosperan bases and i'd like to get a clean tile look like that. is it just scored plasticard?
>>
>>50130200
i dont think it'll settle properly
>>
>>50114816
>>50114831
Beautiful - both the conversion and the paint job.
>>
>>50134755
Those look like the Sector Imperalis bases to me.
>>
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>>50132030
Added some black
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>>50132919
First off, don't assemble before painting if these are your first minis. You want to paint separate pieces that you assemble at the very end of the process when everything else is done. Drill a hole in the bit, put a paper clip in said hole, add some glue, done, you have a way to handle your piece easily without putting your fingers on it and without making any part hard to reach. Don't forget to scrape the paintwhere you're going to glue when you're done.

Remember to dry fit before you glue as well, to get a proper idea of the position before putting it together for good. Use blue tack, and common sense.
>>
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>>50134462
i like those anon, the vibrant green reaaly makes them pop. don't know how to base them, do something summer'ish with bright greens and flowers

>>50132719
found my demolisher cannon! the russ hull is just a hulk atm but it will look as good as new when im done. also added a flag and some jewelry chain to my commanders bannerpole and primed him black (wich ruins him on the pic a bit)
>>
>>50130200
washes are more like ink than paint, so thinning down a black paint wouldn't get a black wash.
Also by the time tou could get the paint to the right fluidity the paint would start to separate
>>
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>>50134128
>D'ya like dags?

Dags? What are dags?

Oh... *dogs*! Ya, I like dags.
>>
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>>50119388
VGC orange fire, golden yellow, moon yellow
>>
>>50135699
Those Megaman marines look awesome, though I'd have used blue
>>
>>50135699
This looks actually, non-sarcastically pro-painted. Do you airbrush or brush-brush? Is the head on the far right from the Cataphractii terminator? Did it take a lot of work to adapt into a regular marine's head? What's your lighting setup? I love the soft light.
>>
>>50135770
airbrush for yellow bits, brush for everything else

head's from a start collecting tac squad. I just kitbashed bits from it and the BaC box to make an assaults squad. Will use prospero box to make devastators when it arrives.

lighting setup is hard light from 2 sides (2 daylight bulbs, one on either side of my desk)

>>50135718
waiting on superglue to arrive so I can magnetize the flamers
>>
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Finished my kalabite warriors for my wood ships. Not sure if I should add snow or not, or some water effects to the bases.

Opinions?
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Making some new Daemonettes by mixing them up with Witch Elf parts and quite a bit of converting.
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Do you gloss before you dip? With what and why?
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my white paint has gone missing, but I found two really old pots of pic related. There is still the tiniest amount of moisture in the pots, enough the the glob inside feels soft and sticky. What are the odds they can be revived and used?
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>>50136823
>my old gw "inks" from ten years ago still make a slosh when shaken
>even some of my old GW screw tops have a little moisture left
holy crap
>>
WIP, I'm at my wits end. I primed half my army in Army Painter Bone Primer and halfway through I switched over to white primer and now I need to strip the 30+ models I've primed Bone. I've tried almost everything but nothing gets it off.
I've tried:
Simple Green,
Super Clean,
Dot-3 Brake Fluid,
& Rubbing Alcohol,

Nothing has made the primer budge. Any other suggestions for getting this shit off?? Thanks.
>>
>>50136984
if super clean and an ultrasonic cleaner together can't do it, it is fucked.
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>>50135986
Look pretty decent but also a bit chalky or thick looking paint.
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>>50136823
>>50136917
I forgot how stanky old GW paints were. That smell brings back a lot of memories.
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>>50130667

i like it, would look much better if he put the weight of his body on that staff, he kinda looks like he's falling forward.
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Hey, so I got bored of production line painting and decided to paint a few marines with their own theme. My first guy will be covered in as much purity seals as possible. Literally every part for him was picked due to how many seals were on there. But I am at a stand still, not sure which head to go with, any thoughts?
>>
>>50136823
That can usually be revived. Drip down a few drops of clean water and/or Acrylic (Lahmian) Medium and stir it with a stick until it feels good.
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>>50137330
I put some distilled water in each of them, going to let them sit a bit, and then give them a thorough mixing.

I'll see how they do.

I could not open the old screw tops on some of my old metallics (tin bitz, beaten copper). I am guessing the paint inside is long dead.
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>>50135153
I do dryfit, and i'm aware of which models will have pieces that obscure other bits of the model (bolters etc)
but I currently don't own brushes or paint because I was going to make a big purchase of brushes and the paints I intend to use at the same time. thanks for the advice though, now I know to pick up some paperclips and cork
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>>50135699
>those even coats and crisp edges
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>>50136522
I endorse this idea
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>>50114831
Go to bed Maleficent, you're supposed to be dead.
>>
If I wanted to just achieve this beige gradient-ish effect, could I just use a cheaper airbrush ($30-$100)?
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>>50138049
even a nice airbrush will only be about a hundred bucks

but then you need a compressor too, which will be 40 to 100 depending on whether you go tankless or get a model with an air tank (the air tank is better).

and a few other supplies, like flow improver, cleaning supplies, etc.

Trust me though, it is worth it. Airbrushes will up your painting game so much. So easy to do smooth coats, gradient blends, OSL effects, etc.
>>
>>50138049
You could just put down some plasticine sausages and use two a differently colored spraycans.
Just don't overspray until the paint gets runny.
>>
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I have a pope of swole muscle and big stick now.
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>>50138094
Thanks for the response. Yeah, after looking it up a bit I learned that painting harlequin vehicles pretty much demands an airbrush if you want to get those cool gradients, and I want to paint my guard army too.

I have a tanked air compressor, but it's a bit more industrial in scope. Could it work, or would I want to get something else specifically for airbrushing?

Lastly, do you have any recommendations for entry-level (but quality) airbrushes and compressors (specifically for models)? Looking around on google has yielded less than I would have thought.
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>>50137504
Yeah, the screw tops were worthless. They're most likely dead.
>>
>>50129644
The purple was the basecoat? I assumed it was a wash. I'm looking to try to get a similar effect on my KD flower knight.
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>>50137287
Rightmost helmeted.

Shave off the blood drops and give him a purity seal on each cheek.
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>>50138180
as long as you have the fittings to attach it to your airbrush most compressors should be fine. I use some model of "Master Airbush" brand tank compressor... they make a lot of different models that are all basically the same.

Many people swear by the Iwata Eclipse model of airbrush. I use a Badger Renegade Krome because I read good things about it. I've been happy with it so far.

You will want a gravity fed airbrush (paint pot on top). Also it should be double-action with a pen-style (no gun trigger). The double-action means you push down on the trigger to start the air flow, and pull back to start the paint flow. This allows you precisely control how much paint you are putting on the model and lets you get a really smooth blend.

You will also want a bottle of airbrush cleaner (they come in liter bottles for not that much) and a bottle of Vallejo Flow Improver. The flow improve can be added to any paints to make them flow super easily through the brush. Finally, you will need a set of airbrush brushes for cleaning it You could use something else I guess, but they are cheap and really handy.

You can also get some surface primer in bottles, but that's optional. Once you've airbrushed on primer, you will never want to use a rattlecan again. So easy to get a smooth thin coat...
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Liking how this one turned out. Just have to stick the damn chapter symbolon his shoulder still but I'm pretty much otherwise done.
>>
>>50137287
>covered in as much purity seals as possible

Please, someone tell me they have that "retarded Astrates chapter" screencap and post it.
>>
>>50138678
>>
>>50138657
Thanks for the help, much appreciated
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>>50138507
I like it, might be hard to make it fit but I will certainly try to get at least 1 on there.

>>50138678
I all ready named him Brother Purity.


Still working on the base coats and I have some cleaning up to do. Really stuck on what colours I want to ropes to be and not sure if I like the colours I used for the wax on the seals.
>>
>>50138741
I now realize Brother Purer is a far better name.
>>
>>50138741
Thank you a lot, anon.

You don't happen to have the screencap of the entire original thread, do you?
>>
Is this little x20 lens I got for my phone gonna make my models look better for you guys or will it be more obvious how thick my paint is?
>>
>>50138678
Take the knot!
>>
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I painted two units, tech thralls and a typhon.
>>
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>>50139020
And tech thralls.
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>>50138657
Are master brand compressors shit? There's a Master TC-80 available to me for relatively cheap.
>>
>>50139063
I use a masters tc-20t and it seems fine. It isn't the quietest, or the loudest, and can keep the pressure in the tank steady between 40 PSI and 60 PSI.

Not sure about their airbrushes though.
>>
>>50139020
What the tank in the left with the twin linked cannon?

Also does anyone here have a good guide for painting nurgle power armour?
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>>50138666
need to get the white on his shoulder just a bit thinner but I like how the eyes turned out
>>
>>50139441
That white took me around 30 minutes to do and god knows how many layers. No idea what it is, possibly the metal, but it just jumped from "almost see-through" to "thicker than a latina's ass" for seemingly no reason.

I had that shit thinned down to a point where I could barely tell if I even had any left on my brush.
>>
>>50139043
Well done! Nice, smooth coats. Any closeups of the thralls?

>>50139233
>Nurgle [power] armor:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xy7AoKAywHk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urm-lWXxtJ0
>>
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http://gameknight.com/?p=3095

>$330 of Plasticine
>'I am proud of this purchase and will make a blog post about it'
>'I have made a terrible mistake'
>>
>>50122989

Is that Kingdom Death? Isn't it supposed to be underground, would grass grow there?

I think white glue should be fine depending on where you place the tuft and how huge it is. I wouldn't think superglue would be much better, since you're gluing it to a painted surface...
>>
>>50139824
Yes, it isn't underground though. There's a tall grass terrain type that the monster spawns with a lot of. Thanks, consensus seems to be that white glue will work fine. It's painted and gloss coated with a matte coat on top of that.
>>
>tfw buying a Tech-Priest Dominus for 5€ unassembled

Feels good.

Should I wait a bit with starting my AdMech army? Have heard talk of people thinking there'll be some interesting shit in the new IA for them and don't want to end up building a lot of stuff just to not use it in the end.
>>
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progress on my dvark angels, along with every color I've used on them.

Still need to do the basecoats for the whites (emblems), blacks (soft armor), Nuln Oil (Duncan's Holy Oil #1), red wash on the red bits, sepia wash on the emblems, then go through the laborious process of highlighting the crap out of everything.
>>
>>50139891
Is that a chaplain up there? Looks great, what did you use for him? Some AoS parts I'd assume?
>>
>>50139890
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea, but you never know. Could always pick up a few troops units like skitarii rangers/vanguard or something just to get some practice with painting.
>>
>>50130667

Night gobbo torsoes — making the best chaos hunchbacks since 1998
>>
>>50139913
The Relictor from the AoS starer, along with a storm bolter from one of the Dark Vengeance Terminators, and a banner topper from... somewhere. Not sure where.
>>
>>50139786
>playing agricola

that was his first mistake, that game is boxed autism
>>
>>50139943
Was planning to not even use Skitarii for my army, only Cult units.

Then again, I probably should start practicing on something since I am >>50123371 and need to try that technique somewhere that's not a 25€ Kastelan first, after all. Though the whole cloth issue would still be there with Skitarii.
>>
>>50139233
the tonk is a legion falchion
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Just finished painting my first unit. Made a lot of mistakes, but reasonably happy with how they turned out.
>>
>>50140354
>>50139634
Legends cheers moites
>>
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This x20 snap on zoom lens is very silly. Anything further away than this and it doesn't focus.
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Here's the iPhone camera without the lens.
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>>50140699
>>
>>50140731
>Guardsmen Harold was never the same after the battle of the Slaaneshi nightclub planet
>>
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>>50140789
>>
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>>50140800
>>
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>>50140731
>>50140800
>>50140817
>>
>>50140587

did... did you paint them while they were taped to that cardboard strip?
>>
>>50141154
No i just wanted to stand them up and i haven't finished the bases yet.
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>>50141154
it wouldn't be bad if he did. It gives something to hold on to and makes it easy to go at a whole squad of troops assembly line style
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>>50141438

I tried a couple 4-man lots stuck to popsicle sticks but I found it a lot easier to do with them stuck individually to bottle caps
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>>50141566
I tried 5 man squads on paint stirrers, like the kind for stirring house paint. It works OK. Much easier than trying to handle the bases, but having individual handles for each miniature in the squad is easiest for me I think.

I don't like holding miniatures by the base. It is actually kind of hard to get a steady grip like that without putting my hands all over the model too.
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What color would you guys suggest for the eye lenses?
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>>50141668
purple
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>>50137504
Water is not so good, a spirit like acrylic thinner is the best.
>>
>>50141668
green, like the other eyes
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>>50139949
Nice try, but that's a Skaven plague monk.
>>
>>50136984

Real primer bonds to the surface of the plastic
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>>50141668

Definitely purple, you already have green on the model
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>>50141737
>>50142881
I don't have purple, but i'll try to mix some.

>>50141923
>the other eyes

I thought these are gems, but now that you mention it..
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>>50142910

Glowing orange can work too but purple would be ideal.
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>>50142913
>Glowing orange

I doubt i could paint that so it looks good.

Can you recommend me a purple color from the current gw range? I was out of the hobby for quite some time and all my paint have different names from the ones on their website.
>>
What primer is best for shiny metallic paints? Is there a silver primer?

Been usin Imperial Primer so far, want to paint a metal looking army soon tho.
>>
>>50142934
>Is there a silver primer?

Army painter has one. (Plate Mail)
>>
>>50142922

Glow effects are easy though.

>bright orange base
>draw a white * type striped star in the center
>wash orange, lightly tinting the white
>small dot of white in the center

This works with any colors though.

Personally I use vallejo most of the time, I think royal purple is the same as genestealer purple. That's a nice one. Get some drucchi violet for the wash. You can mix your own variants for small things like eyes.
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>>50142969
Thanks Anon.
I'll see what i can find at my lfgs tomorrow. I think they stock Vallejo too.
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