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WIP work in progress /wipg/

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Thread replies: 349
Thread images: 100

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In this thread we post our work and pray for (You)s

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>I am the hammer! I am the point of His spear! I am the mail about His fist! I am the bane of His foes!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjaYW5Cnr5k
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I bought a primus redoubt's turbo laser for reaver titan carapace weapon.
>>
dunc looks pretty JUST tier in that shot desu
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Reposting first and last time
First time with robes, don't think I thinned good enough..
How's it look?
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Still wip
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>>49902613
>>49902601
Isn't the neatest, but not that bad regardless.
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Suggestions on how to do a Lias Issodon conversion?
Looking to do a conversion for my Raptor successor chapter, don't really know where to start
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>>49902638
>Lias Issodon
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>>49902553
Lovely work, really it's nice. But it's just too clean for me. I just love to have some severe weathering on my models, even the small ones, and here you are with your Titan, pristine clean fresh out of the forges.
>>
>>49895393
>>49901314
Hehehe, well the idea was they all deep strike in from the warp where, naturally, the floor is lava. This is matt ward fluff we're talking about after all.
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>>49902960
I also love hard weathering, but it is too big for me :(
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>>49902601
>>49902613
looks fine to me.
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Building and painting 40k terrain: what other grafitti could be put on the terrain?
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>>49903800
The second bit.
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>>49903800

Imperial propaganda posters, there's plenty of resources for them around the internet
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>>49903822
I was going to put a few up once I got to a printer. Was hoping to do some bits with a brush while I wait.
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>>49903835
maybe various discreet markers for various factions? Like a stylized Genestealer cult-icon, a weirdly shaped chaos icon. things like that.
>>
Hey guys. What kind of brushes and brand of paints should I get to start my adventure with /wip/?
I thought about something cheaper, just to practice and get some skill first. Eurofag here, if that's any help.
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Reposting because last thread died shorty after posting. Trying out a word bearer because I never painted red armor before this. Base still has a way to go but liking the scheme this far.
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Alright, I think I have a decent Tzeentch colour scheme for my WH Fantasy Chaos Warriors:

-Night Lord Blue (forgeworld range) for the armour
-Grey Knight Steel (fw range) for the metallic bits/weapons

What for the leather and cape?

Also what highlight colours would match Night Lord blue, standard Alaitoc and Hoeth?
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>>49904119
Not bad at all. The robe is a nice touch. Don't know if it's some very strong shadow vut both arms have a black spoltch near the elbow crease. You might want to paint seperated pieces bzfore assembling if you don't manage to reach those place.
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>>49904270
When painting separately do you leave the surface areas to be glued paint free or does it not matter?
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My first fully painted dude, apart from the fuck awful edge highlight, how would you rate it?
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>>49904307
Painting to be glued areas isn't good, because then you're just gluing the paint together, not the parts. But you can easily scrape the plastic or resin bare afterwards. So it's trivial to fix.
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>>49903822
>>49903835
Here you go.
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>>49904270
Ah, did not notice the splotch! Always after taking the pic do those things become visible. I'll give it some cleanup when I can. Thanks
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>>49904419
>>
Can we get a brush comparison thing going? There are loads out there and so many people still use citadel brushes for some reason.
>>
So people painting Deathwatch, are you doing a blue steel effect for the left arm? I think it's pretty cool but the only way I've seen it done is in Duncan's video. I was wondering if there was any other styles knocking about
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>>49904585
kolinsky series 33
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>>49904706
For everything?
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So I was an idiot and didn't realize that you're supposed to apply base paints first, then layer paints. The carnifex I painted with pallid wych flesh doesn't look terrible, but it's just an off-white on his white primer. Can I just go over it with rakarth flesh base and then layer again, or is he fucked?
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>>49903800
genestealer cult motiff, hooker numbers, directions, x was here, random ganger signs, ganger blood for vandalising imperial property
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>>49904124
love it, although leather highlights look abit too large
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>>49903814
>Cypher was here
No, he wasn't, you fucking liar
>>
My Start Collecting box just cane in today.

I'm doing a Tau theme of black or Stegadon Scale Green armor with Tron-style highlighting in seams. Moot Green, Lothern Blue, and an orange I don't have in front of me.

What would be the best way to mark out a leader via paint this way? Alter the Tau symbol (orange instead of green)? Or something else entirely? No open cockpits or visible heads whatsoever, so the skin isn't a concern.
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>>49904878
with the t'au tau scheme the more white you have the more power you have (no racist) so maybe do yellow, or some other sharp colour
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>>49904802
depends on how thick is the coat that u already put on
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>>49904957
Just one layer. I'm not good at this.
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>>49905038
ye u should be fine.
post a pic if u want confirmation
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Colourblind guy here again - it's half term so I'm starting another project.
Pure harlequins.
I've got 24 harlequins, 2 shadowseers, a death jester, as well as a separate corsair prince and void dreamer
Thinking of doing the checks the same way I did on the skyweavers but change the colours depending on the squad, to use as markings.
Problem is that means I'm stuck with one load out and can't mix and match squads. Is there a better solution for squad markings that I'll still be able to mix and match?
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>>49905416
My previous checks, for reference.

I was thinking of doing one squad of green, one blue, one red, but all my skyweavers use green and all of the harlies from the cast of players I run do checks with grey/red instead of beige/green. Might have to repaint those checks too.
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Working on some Tau objectives for a friend, just bits thrown together
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>>49905416
well, any visual means of distinguishing one unit from another is going to do just that, so no.
>>49905435
make sure for the checks to do edge highlighting on one color and center highlighting on the other color to give you maximum contrast at the borders of the pattern
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Hey guys, I am a constant lurker here, but I almost never post. I'm working on a Reaver and want to do some weathering. IN addition to washes, I do have some weathering powders and whatnot at my disposal. Thing is, I'm pretty new and don't want to fuck it up. So I guess I'm looking for any tips you guys have on weathering stuff like this. For what it is worth, most of this isn't glued - the knee and shoulder plates are just placed on, and the entire body separates from the legs (magnetized), and obviously the carapace comes off. I'm MOST interested in weathering the metal bits - I've been experimenting with glazing them with diluted colors to add character (not in this photo) but I am also interested in weathering the carapace and other non metal bits. Any tips would be very much appreciated.
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Shamelessly copying a Heldrake conversion I saw on the internet with chinaman poison
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>>49905861
The neck's too long.
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>>49905884
The neck is fine, your dick is too short!
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Finished this, now to work on the rest of the fleet.
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>>49905897
If you can't take criticism of your models you shouldn't be in the /wip/ thread.
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Currently working on my first Dreadnought.

Need to do a lot of cleanup, the nubs and bits dont look as bad in person. Everything is currently just dry-fitted aside from 2-part pieces like the arms, legs, and the claws.

Planning on magnetising the majority of the armor so I can swap it out if I want to do a Librarian or Furioso. How the fuck do I put the extra armor on? I can't seem to find the sweet-spot of where the plates should sit. First need to get a drill-set and the magnets. Also fucked up when I first tried fitting the leg plate and tore a small part of the pegs. Has me thinking of trying to magnetise those as well
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Would Stormcast heads would fit on regular humans? Was thinking thier heads on genestealer neophytes would make a good tzeentch cultist
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>>49906031
Fuck forgot to take out a would
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>>49906031
Yeah I think they would, I've put human heads on stormcast models and they fit well
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>>49905540
Wonderful looking job so far. You should post more!

As for weathering, if the imperial armour masterclass books from forgeworld are in the MEGA I suggest taking a look at them as I recall them actually being very good.
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>>49905936
Not his model
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>>49904955
Hm...

Yellow for commanders and for communications equipment, orange for weapons, blue for defenses (shield generators, for example), green for regular armor? Maybe down the line pick up a purple and use that on the army's command battlesuit?
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>>49906217
Thank you sir! I will post more … I've been meaning to put together a lightbox so my photos aren't crap. I've got some peltasts and hoplites built that will get painted next so I'll post those and give you a sense of how underwhelming my skill level actually is :) But I definitely appreciate the compliment!

I do have the masterclass books and they are super helpful. I'm thinking about trying some oil washes and techniques detailed there. A fellow modeler gave me an idea I might try that involves mixing some darker oil paints, slathering the surface of the model, using a hair dryer to get it tacky, then wiping off as much as you can with a rag - the idea being that what you can't get at is in the crevices where you would see dirt build up anyway. So I guess I'm looking for anyone's personal experiences with using these techniques or working with weathering powders and what they learned (especially about what NOT to do). I am doing a vortex missile carapace conversion, so I might very well assemble the remainder of that model to test on before I fuck up the titan by being overeager. But I always appreciate personal experience and anecdotes.

One thing I keep reading is that if you're going to work with oils (or, more specifically oil thinners like white spirits) you should "seal" the model first in a varnish. I've also started looking into the different properties they have and how they affect oil washes. One question coming out of this - I have heard a lot of UK modelers swear by floor wax (like Future Floor Polish). But I can't seem to find it in the states. I'm wondering if any americans in WIP have found an airbrush-sprayable Future alternative that is easy to find in the states? I'd really appreciate it, along with any tips you have. For example, I usually do transfers last, but I'm thinking that this time I better weather AFTER doing transfers. How do you guys do it? Any tips or experiences would be awesome. Thanks in advance guys.
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So I'm in the process of making my first tank a chimera. I've noticed something and now I'm not sure how to progress. The back door has a hinge on it so you can look inside, however the next stage is to put the top on. I'm now conflicted as if I put the top on I wont be able to prime inside, but if I prime before I put the top on I won't be able to green stuff the joints between the top and the bottom properly. What do? Any chimera advice. Pic related (my wip).
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>>49905861
Clockwork dragon for my ttrpg games? I take 5
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>>49905934
This looks good but I can't help seeing a basketball
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airbrushing on primer is sooo much easier to apply a smooth coat than a rattlecan
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>>49906971
Do you actually plan on opening that door? How often do you think anyone will actually see the interior?
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>>49904320

sidewaysandblurry/10.
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Stirland Mud = Rhinox Hide right?
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>>49907100
yea, I felt the same way after I painted it. I'm thinking of picking out the raised areas on it, maybe break up the lines and maybe fix it that way.
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>>49906971
No one actually paints the inside unless making a diorama.
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>>49907128
I had considered just gluing the whole thing together. It's not like anything can actually fit in it right. You recon thats the way to go?
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>>49905540
Looks very nice. Don't forget the church when you base it.
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>>49907223
Mate, you know Titans don't have bases, right?
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>>49907182
That's the way a majority of the people do it. I've only seen the interior painted on purely art pieces
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>>49907464
What about the guns at the top. the diagram and way they can be put in seem to suggest they can free-float, but I also think that looks dumb and might fix them. Thoughts?
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Where can I get decent-looking smaller pauldrons for Space Marines? Completely pauldron-less doesn't look right with the joins exposed, but the full-size article is too much.
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>>49907644
A couple flavors of smaller pads here:
http://anvilindustry.co.uk/Exo-Lords/Shoulder-Pads
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>>49907223
Hahaha, needs more church !

I'm torn on basing this one. It's pretty solid as is, but I might base it anyway. If I do, I will make sure there's a bit of church, just for WIP.
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>>49907709
The Vanguard pads are actually what I was looking at; I've bought from Anvil before and enjoyed what I got.
>>
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>>49905934
game?
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>>49902668

Not the poster you were replying to, but thanks for posting this.

It has convinced me that making segemented shoulder banding out of green stuff is more trouble than it's worth. I'll just stamp out the rivets with GS, and achieve the banding effect with paint as I'd considered earlier.
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>>49907810
Dropfleet commander, that there being a shaltari.
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>>49907622
Just fix them in place. The ball joints are just there to let you place them at any angle you want
>>
Hey lads, I did a Sigmar army and I've learned a lot about painting. I want my 40k army I'm starting to look good though.
What are some good brushes? I have 2 old paintbrushes right now.
Also how do I achieve a gradient effect? Iwant to do a purple to grey fade on my Skitarii cloaks.
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>>49905936

If you can't tell when someone's just being facetious and sperg out on them you shouldn't be in the /wip/ thread.
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>>49902668

PLEASE tell me what shoulderpad is that and where can I get one like it
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>>49908005
thin the paint to the point where it's still controllable. multiple layers. gradually reduce area while correspondingly lightening tone.
>>
>>49902480
Why does he always move the same way in every video?
What is he hiding??
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>>49908731
same reason he says exactly the same shit
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>>49908731
he's a servitor programmed to paint
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>>49905861
did it look shitty with just the heldrake neck?
>>
You're supposed to use different paint to water rates depending on the type of paint, right?
Seems like layer paints are thinner than base paints.

How much water do you guys use?
1:1?
1:2?
>>
>>49908797
He holds himself back to disguise the fact that he's a Slaaneshi champion of painting.
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>>49908952
I generally just test on the palette to make it sure it's not absurdly runny
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My attempt at a slaughterpriest. The first GW Mimi I've ever painted. Mostly cheap craft acrylics, Vallejo flesh paints, army painter inks, and blood for the blood god.
>>
>>49908987
It's well done. I'd move on to real miniature paint from here, but especially for craft acrylics, it's nice looking, especially for a first time.

Where are people still getting their piles of slaughterpriests from? I don't even play Sigmar and now I want to give one a try.
>>
>>49908987
That is some top snow. How did you do it?

The rest of the model's good, in case it seems like I'm damning with faint praise ("well, the base is good"), it's just that snow really caught my eye.
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>>49909019
It is simple snow flocking. Got it at a Michael's. I glued it on with pva glue. The base built up from grey mixed with stucco texture paint. Then dry brush from grey to mid grey. Then black ink all over. Then dry brush from mid grey to white. I glued slate rocks and grass flocking first. Then I topped with snow. I used some blood for the blood god for the blood splatter on the ground below the ball and chain.
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>>49909007
Someone said in (I think) the last thread that they were given out with White Dwarf. Not sure if they meant a subscription or a specific issue, though.
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>>49909082
Cool. Thanks dude.
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>>49908915
Hole in the body was way too big, I don't have the sculpting skills to fill that much of a gap
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>>49907244
It's a meme mate
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>>49909148
Yeah, it was a specific issue, but that was months ago, wasn't it? And they keep showing up.
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>>49909007
The firat issue of the white dwarf reboot came/comes with one.
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>>49909352
>but that was months ago, wasn't it?
the september issue, i.e. the last one
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>>49907244
then what's that on this guy's feet?
>>49902553
checkmate atheists
>>
What size drill bits would I need to use for the 1/8"x1/16" magnets?

The sets im looking at dont have number guides and instead have shit like "52-70 drill sizes"
>>
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WIP Kroot specialist for Kroot Kill team list
First attempt and Kitbashing and greenstuffing
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>>49909648
3mm. You can get 2 for $4.50 at Lowes.
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>>49902480
Guys send help

So I painted about 40-60 dudes maybe. It was fun at first, and then it wasn't. This is over the course of a year.

Now I haven't touched painting anything for nearly a year, and don't really feel like doing it again. Not sure why. It was kind of fun once. I suspected regular burnout, but now it's been like a year and I'm thinking about boxing up my whole painting desk.

I begin to suspect I merely respect miniatures painting, but not necessarily enjoy doing it myself.

Anybody else realize this?
>>
>>49909733
Dont kroot regenerate limbs if they eat corpes?
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>>49910396
No idea New to 40k just thought they looked neat for learning conversions I am sure I come u with some BS to explain it if anyone asks on the table top but I would need to do some research
>>
>>49910442
>>49910396
No they dont, they eat people to learn from them.
I.E a kroot eats a ork, he feels stronger but stupider, a kroot eats a space marine, his mary sue levels increase, a kroot eats a dark eldar, he starts listening to linkin park and yelling at his mom
>>
>>49910008
I've realized it with other hobbies.

If you're boxing up your whole painting desk, I'll hold onto it for you. You may receive it back somewhat used.
>>
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first time really airbrushing for real and I am pleased with the results

GW paints do not go through the airbrush very well period, but Vallejo and Secret Weapon work great with just a couple drops of flow improver.

I do not look forward to cleaning the airbrush. Last time it took me half an hour to put it back together after cleaning.
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Heyo

A while ago, I held a dubs contest to see how I would paint these two up and the winner was blazing orange and sky blue (I also had an extra guy around and decided to do an Ultra-Nid since it was popularly requested).

Well, got a new job right after that contest and have finally settled into a new city and slapped some paint on them.

I think I'm going to lighten up the blues on Ultra-Nid (I don't own any GW paints, so I'm improvising with P3).
>>
Would anyone mind taking a photo of a sigmarine's bolterbow next to a spacemarine's boltgun?

I don't have much of an idea how large they are.
>>
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Finished 1 valhallan, started on second.
I need a better lamp.
>>
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howdy everyone. I finished painting up this cleric here that I inherited from my old man. The model is somewhere around 40 years old(my dad owned it back when he played 1st edition D&D as a little kid). And so it was suffering from some pretty severe leadrot, as it wasn't primed and secreted away inside of a tiny coffee tin so as to escape being burned by his catholic parents. There were plenty other minis with him, but he was the most intact I could find.

I touched up what I could, primed it, and now I've painted it up today. So far there's some details that are too far gone, such as the eyes, the relief on his breastplate, and the cross, as well as parts of his leggings. I'll touch up more of the minis this week, and hopefully post my results here.
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>>49911908
And here's the backside. I had rebased the mini on a 28mm geedubs base, mostly because it's thoroughly rotten original base can't stand on anything. I pared it flat with a crafting knife and superglued it on there.
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>>49909733
I like it
>>
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>>49905435
Cool skyweavers. I also tried a galaxy theme for my harlies.
>>
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>>49912821
And here I am just hoping to get good results from solid freaking colors!

Prototyping a custom Chimera. Trying to decide where the smoke launchers ought to go. Turret cheeks are right out because I need those spaces for decals. So: Front, Middle, or back?
>>
>>49912926
Solid colors are boring.
>>
>>49913028
jesus titty fucken christ

More please
>>
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>>49913048
Sadly they are unfinished. I was accepted to dental school when harlequins came out and never got a chance to finish them. I am just now taking them out of the box because I want to get back into 40k after not playing for over a year.
>>
>>49913028
How do you get checkers where both sides are gradients like that? They did that on the demo for the new Shadowseer model as well. How the fuck do you do it??
>>
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>>49913193
Well you start by painting a rainbow and all the planets like this. Then you paint a galaxy like >>49912821

And when you put the two together you make >>49913028
>>
>>49913338
Masking is key.
learn how to mask.
>>
>>49913361
Ah, so it IS a masking technique. That's what I was asking.
>>
>>49911128
You only have to strip your brush down every once in a while; just clean your cup, load with some cleaner, spray, back flush, dump. Repeat until nothing comes back out with the back flush.
>>
Anyone got ideas of what I can do with extra blast markers?
>>
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How the fuck do I paint plasma coils so they don't look like shit? Even https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lpSVZiYLuPY method doesn't look great. Should I try drybrushing it? Tried a highlighting method but this bullshit is what I got.
>>
>>49913816
Thin your paints better, keep your brush neater, take your time, and don't be afraid to use multiple layers.

The method works, you just need to work on your execution.
>>
>>49913849
Guess that's all there is to it. Tips for stripping paint off? the gun is a little small for the whole rubbing alchohol and a toothbrush thing.
>>
>>49913872
An overnight bath in Simple Green then judicious use of an old toothbrush or sonic cleaner.
>>
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>>49911128
posting update while I wait for shades to dry

>>49913447
that's what I've been told, but I am also not sure I will be airbrushing tomorrow, and I won't get a chance after tomorrow to use it until next weekend, since it is dark by the time I get home. I've looked into indoor airbrushing booths, but my home is very small.
>>
>>49913483
Give them to the other player so you two don't have to keep handing them back and forth.
>>
>>49913778

Is Duncan smug? IDK how to decipher brit mannerisms
>>
>>49914012
he is more nervous in front of the camera

but in that still frame, he looks very smug
>>
>>49914012
"Why don't I like you?"
"Because you think I'm an arsehole. And I'm not, really. I'm just British and, well... you're not."
>>
>>49913983
Yea, I only have an extra medium, I was trying to see if I could make it into something neat. Maybe a piece of terrain?
>>
>>49914012
He looks defeated from having to paint a pile of garbage.
>>
>>49907810
Looks pimping, Militia and Cults?
>>
How's this look?
>>
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Does anyone have tutorials or resources for Blanchitsu-style painting and techniques?
>>
>>49913028
>space theme looks amazing
>diamond rainbow theme looks amazing
>slap them together
>it still looks amazing

11/10 mate, keep it up
>>
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:( I feel like a retarded child with a neurological disorder when I take close up photos
>>
>>49914390
You should feel like that when you're painting. Good god, man.
>>
>>49911458
What you need do to do is straighten those fucking limp-dicked lasguns you got before I tell the Company Commissar on your heretical ass.

Otherwise, they look very nice. You should feel quite proud anon.
>>
>>49914438
That's what I mean. The act of taking a photo manifests a feeling cause by painting very poorly.
>>
>>49914187
Very regal
>>
>>49912926
Rearmost position looks best, in my opinion. They look weird in all three, but at least it's rear-heavy anyway.
>>
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>>49914390
That's perfectly acceptable work
Of course that's assuming that mini is the size of a grain of rice.
>>
>>49914226
>tutorials for Blanchitsu-style painting and techniques
Blanche uses a lot of strong black white contrasts and loves his ink washes.
Basically he paints on minis like on canvas.

Copying somebody else's style is always difficult, but in this case you just either got the skills so paint or you don't.
This might sound mean, but if you have to ask how to do it, you probably can't.
>>
>>49913778
I don't think Dunky is smug. He seems humble.
>>
>>49914187
The face is wonderfully done! What's your process?
>>
>>49911205
Someone was just asking about you last thread. Keep it up and always rumembah ta thin ya paints, 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush.
>>
>>49914633
I'm aware of the general theory and effect. I was looking for tips on specific ink wash compositions, or how to do foam stippling, etc.

I'm not sure anyone can really copy Blanche's style, but at least knowing the techniques can help.
>>
>>49905984
Hey mate. The arm plates really just sit on there, there isn't a snug fit. Here's a closeup from GW's site. If you look at other pics you'll notice the Death Company dread is also using an arm plate as an athletic cup. It doesn't sit well there at all.
>>
>>49914693
>I was looking for tips on specific ink wash compositions, or how to do foam stippling, etc.
In that case look at the old GW paiting book from it think 2004. In that book they go into quite a lot of detail about inks, washes glazes and tints.
If you read anything earlier they also refer to their own inks, which were actual acrylic inks. Quite a bit different to use than the washes they sell these days.

And foam stippling? Do you mean for chipping effects and such? Just take a tiny bit of foam, from a blister pack for example, and add a bit of paint, rub/dab the thing onto a piece of paper until the preferred amount of paint comes of and go to town. Use a pair of pliers if you got huge hands so you can use it like a brush.

A very good resource for 'grown up' painting techniques, like using oil paints and the like is basically any military scale modeling page.
Lots of really great information about environment effects, weathering, and god knows what else.

Most people just never look beyond what GW sells, which is a shame since broadening your horizons just takes a quick google search and the information is free and readily available.

But yeah Blanche in general just loves his stark contrasts, browns, red inks and tiny checker patterns.
Maybe the best way to 'learn' his style is to hand up a few reference pictures while you are working on your projects and incorporate elements from his work into yours.
>>
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I'm working on a shopping list for some Sylvaneth and I'm hoping some kind anon can help me out. I tend to use appropriately named paints whenever I can, so my bark is gonna be dryad bark and sylvaneth bark, that kind of thing. In the lore the elf-looking bits canonically they look like green-tinged elves.

Can anyone show me kislev flesh (formerly elf flesh) with waywatcher green glaze over it? If anyone is feeling up to it I'd like to see it before I buy both y'know?
>>
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About to do a howling grif army with the rest of my calth set, already sprayed all of them red.
How do i paint a good 'darker' yellow using primarily averland sunset without fucking myself over? mainly what wash should i suse with it and should i recess or all-over wash it
>>
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>>49915037
>already sprayed all of them red.
You should have done the yellow first.
Would have been way easier. Red over yellow covers well, yellow over red is gonna be a pain in the ass to paint.

Anyway, you'll probably have to paint multiple coats now or use another basecoat anyway to get an even yellow.
I'd only wash the recesses. Yellow has to look clean to look good imo. Slathering a wash all over won't look good unless you plan rehighlighting everything afterwards.
>>
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>>49915037
>>49915092
sorry, didn't mean to post that reaction image.
>>
>>49915130
Does it matter what quarters i make red or yellow?, im making the right leg yellow for example, im painting based of the pic i posted
>>
>>49915163
>Does it matter what quarters i make red or yellow?
Not really.
FW sometimes changes the schemes quite a bit.
But Ultramarines and Blood Angels underwent several changes in their schemes too.
Other chapters like the Raptors even got several schemes to choose from.

If you want a fluff explanation, Insignium Astartes mentioned that Chapters are supposed to change it up every once in a while to screw with enemy intel, which of course is completely bonkers since you can always clearly tell who is in charge.
So aside from there being a reasonably fluff excuse for the discrepancies you can just pick whatever you like.

No right or wrong here.
If I were to paint Blood Angels I'd always paint them in their 2nd edition color cause those looked best imo.
>>
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More work on my killa kan, should i make them more dissimilar? critique wanted
>>
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Here's my progress after 5 mins, this is the first layer of yellow, thinned using wet palette,
Surprisingly p, the yellow went on the red very well considering, anyway, another thin coat should be fine. What washes should I use for the red and yellow or should I stick with recess casandora?
>>
>>49915236
Dunno. If you warband uniformly uses the stripes keep on using it.
If not you can use dags, checkers or flames like in the olden days.

Lovely stuff though, very nicely painted.
Personally I also think the old metal models had a bit more charm, but that might be nostalgia speaking.
>>
>>49915092
i found it best to wash yellows with orange or light red paints, keeps the vibrance and doesnt make it look muddy, see my post: >>49915236
Not the best example but thats how i do it for my orks
>>
>>49915257
Thanks, ill look into the other decals, stripes are just so easy to freehand. And yeah, new killa kan models look shit compared to these old ones, have a few more coming in shortly
>>
>>49914573
That's what I was going for, thanks.

>>49914654
I found one of the old painting guides listed up top at a used bookstore and I used the technique in there for the eyes. Other than that, Agrax and a steady hand.
>>
>>49910581
Underrated post
>>
Not sure if this is the place to ask, but I'll be painting up some pre heresy Thousand Sons soon and I'm not sure whether to do gold or white rims on their shoulder pads. What do you guys think looks better?
>>
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>>49903814
I bet Cypher doesn't go around writing his name on fucking buildings. Asmodai would find him way too easily.
>>
>>49915337
Probably just a ganger thinking he needed a cooler streetname than Flavius and in for a surprise once the green Thunderhawks pull up in front of his home.
>>
>>49911205

>didn't prime
>bad coverage
>armor plates are one solid color
Anon, I'm disappointed. I was looking forward to seeing these and it looks like you took maybe 10 minutes total to paint them.
>>
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How does /tg/ rate my wet blending? (Everything else very wip)
>>
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>>49915547
>>
>>49902553
>All turbo lasers
You're a fag and you know it.
>>
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>>49903800
MARINES LOL
>>
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I just got back into playing, picked up dark eldar and bought a shit load of models including a tantalus.

I wanna paint them in a Waspish style but I'm not sure how to make it look good/how to make the black not just blocks of black. I was gonna add red to the palette for gems etc
>>
>>49915592
Silly anon, it's got only one turbo-laser. The rest are laser blasters.
>>
>>49916187
Black with yellow edging on the armour maybe?
>>
>>49916253

Yeah it jus seems to fall a little flat, maybe I'll add a little orange in
>>
Can anyone answer me why tau stormsurges feet don't stay on?

Mine keep falling off, i'm probably going to have to pin him
>>
>>49916443
pic?
>>
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Some test Blood Pact I made using gs cultists, some Cadian arms, and harlequin masks.

I've bought a skitarii tank as well to make into a Blood Pact stalk tank.
>>
>>49916187
>I wanna paint them in a Waspish style but I'm not sure how to make it look good/how to make the black not just blocks of black. I was gonna add red to the palette for gems etc

Have you considered doing kind of an abstraction of the pattern on the animal in a dark eldar style, with sharp points and a tribal feel?
Basically dudes clad in black leather and sporting yellow armor with the wasp patterns on them. Maybe use a dark brown instead of black on the armor.

Personally I'd use a green or teal instead of a red, kind of makes them look less colorful. Two primary colors might look too happy for deldar if you get what I mean.

The wasp pattern would look awesome on jetbikes.
If you build some hellions and jetbikes these heads might look cool too.

Keep us posted, sounds like an awesome project.
>>
>>49913778
always rememba to thin ya paints, and get a fine tip on ya brush.
>>
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>>49914390
THIN IT AND REDO.
>>
>>49916695

That sounds like a good idea, I think the design will work on all the vehicles its just gonna be a struggle to make infantry look good i reckon.

Plus im gonna have to strip 5 warriors 2 venoms and the tantalus since I pussied out on the wasp theme with them and did a purple to green wet blend effect on them.
>>
>>49916695

Also those heads are cool, I wonder if there are any scourge sized insect wings as that would be a pretty cool conversion too.
>>
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Update on the harlequins - have since fixed the kneepad and the gem on his chest. Does the colour scheme look ok?
>>
>>49914510
Thank you! Bending metal is pretty scary but I guess it's a good representation of
>s3 ap-
>>
>>49917469
they're gorgeous Anon, the gem looks nice and deep red, the turquoise / white check pattern looks really nice.
>>
>>49915163
Quarter it however you want, but make sure it's consistent across the army.
>>
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So I'm almost done with a Keeper of secrets I've been working on for some time now, and have had a custom Chaos looking base just for it around that I had planned to use.

Both the Base and the model is now painted to the best of my abilities and kinda proud of the result.

The problem I'm facing is getting the bastard to stand on the base.

The base is so busy it's near impossible to find a place to anchour it's feet.

I'm left two options basically: One, add a kinda lump of greenstuff to make a base for the feet and paint them up like the base. or two: Remove part of the resin base to make a flat surface to place the feet on.

I'm not sure what option would give the best result, anyone had similar problems?

I realize I should have done better testing on the base before painting but I was so hooked up on painting I screwed up.
>>
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>>49904419
>>49904439
>>
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>>49917900
>>
>>49917842
make a surface that matches the base out of greenstuff. measure and make sure it will hold your booby daemon on it and hold it stable.
>>
>>49915414
I primed them gray and I'm not even close to done, hence why I said I just "slapped some paint on them."

It will still be a little bit before I get them finished. Just wanted to chime in that I'm not dead and haven't forgotten.
>>
>>49915239
I'd use a brown wash of some sort as it will look good on both red and yellow. In addition it will give a unifying look to the mini as a whole.
>>
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>>49915337
>>49917916
>>
>>49909733
Looks great! Love the pegleg.
>>
>>49917900
>>49917916
>>49918040
In the grim darkness of the far future... we are still using Microsoft publisher apparently. These look awful.
>>
Where can I get some static grass in non-grassy/psychedelic colors?

I was stripping some models earlier, and I accidentally threw a base covered in static grass into the simple green mix, and when I got it out it was this really trippy bleached turquoise color with some purple spots in there here and there, and I realized how awesome that's gonna look on my new Daemons of Tzeentch army.
I can't guarantee duplicating that result again so I'm looking for grasses that actually come in those colors. Can anyone help me out?
>>
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>>49916726
I tried to clean it up and make the lines more vibrant. Still looks like a gay retard did it, but it was a fun experiment. I need a finer tipped brush.
>>
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My first attempt at osl. Did not turn out like i wanted, anybody got some tips?
And holy shit, why does everthing look so bumby in photos? I promise that it's smooth irl
>>
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2nd done, on third
>>
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I know I keep posting them but I love these sculpts, hope it's not annoying
>>
>>49919037

I would suggest you look at some guides and step by steps.

I can see what you've tried to do but Light doesn't work like, it should be brightest closest to the object and then fade out. you've just kept the same colour.

It doesn't look a bad first attempt.

Just google OSL painting
>>
>>49919037

The CMON guide in OP post will help, not just with the OSL but taking proper non blurred photos
>>
>>49919219
Yeah, using my phone right now, new camera should be getting here during the week, i'll build a lightbox then.
I tried to mimic a step by step tutorial, but obviously i should try to paint light when there's actual daylight out.
>>
>>49913778

Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!
>>
>>49918982
>more vibrant
This was seriously the last thing it needed.
Highlights (as seen on the lasgun) are supposed to be a /brighter/ colour than the main one. Yours are inexplicably darker. Look for Warhammer TV on YouTube and watch some painting tutorials. It's not just a meme that Duncan is good, he's genuinely very helpful.

Apologies for asking, but might you be colour blind? Or maybe you're just gay and retarded
>>
>>49919537
I'm just gay and retarded. I saw the cell shaded carnifex earlier and wanted to experiment outside of my normal gay retard color scheme of traditional highlighting. As we can tell, it did not work well.
>>
>>49919626
Cell-shading is something that can definitely work, but it's not an easy thing to pull off, as you noticed.
>>
My old mate varnish cracked the paint on all my dudes last night. What do?
>>
>>49916614
Very nice!
>>
>>49903800
>xenos eunt domus
Fucking kek.
>>
>>49919732

Test any varnish product you use so you don't risk losing hours worth of work.

Oh wait...
>>
>>49913778
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!
>>
>>49914390

Never take close up macro shots of your work, never.
>>
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>>49905485

Nice!
I think you nailed the aesthetic.
Well done, anon.
>>
>>49920408
Filename should be Tremendous desu
>>
why paint base, shade and base again?
Why not base and shade with a darker color before putting on the actual color?
>>
>>49905934
COME ON AND SLAM
>>
>>49918000

As long as you're slapping, slap white. If you want to end-up with a red/ orange/ yellow that doesn't look muddy, paint or prime those areas white first, and put the colour coat on after the white has dried.

Have fun!
>>
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dumb noob babby question.

I'm looking over the painting guide mega but it seems to be all about Warhammer while I just want to paint D&D minis that come unpainted in the board games like in pic.

is there any differences in painting a D&D mini from a Warham mini besides size? (I assume wargame minis are bigger) like different resin/plastics mean you can't so and so brand of paints or you can only this kind of brush?
>>
>>49920729

Simple answer; no.

Trying to think of a complicated answer. It's all the same concepts, just apply it to other types of models
>>
>>49920473
Because GW only releases select colors and wants you to use more paint so you can buy more paint.
>>
>>49920729
The big thing with 'board game' minis is you'll almost certainly want to put down a primer coat to ensure that your paint sticks to the mini and doesn't wear off right away. You might try a light gray spray primer as it will allow you to easily paint up to brighter colors or down into the darker range easily.
>>
>>49920729
They should be basically the same. D&D minis are plastic as far as I know, so 40k rules still apply. Do you happen to know the height? 40k and most other wargames are 28mm, I believe most D&D miniatures are 32mm or 54mm depending on scale.
>>
>>49920400
Me specifically, or in general?
>>
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>>49918783

Not him, but you're not being helpful, Sport. Feel free to contribute something more than your unsolicited opinion.
>>
>>49920473
shades can sometimes not look right if they aren't applied evenly, so you want to wash over everything.

You could base with a darker color, but then you'd have less subtle shades and also need three colors instead of 2.

>>49920794
stop this meme if this were true duncan would not be telling people to thin their paints
>>
>>49920729
Board game miniatures frequently use a softer type of plastic.
Priming is needed usually, and be careful not to bend the miniatures after painting, as that could snap your paint right off.
The paint will flex a little bit, but it's generally rigid once dry.
>>
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>airbrush on layers
>it is looking good!
>go to apply some highlights with a brush
>paint is sooo thick even watered down to where is running
help
>>
>>49920797
I'm not sure but WOTC basically just reuses the minis they release in the booster boxes but unpainted. so your assumptions should be accurate
>>
>>49920835
He tells people to thin their paints on a dry palette. Thinning gives the paint more surface area on a palate in order to dry out faster than if you weren't to thin the paint, making a user have to dip more often into the paint, using more paint. Not to mention, he always wants multiple layers of paint.
>>
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Ambush!
>>
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Got a new camera, hows the quality?
>>
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>>49920901
The Canoness is not impressed.
>>
>>49920880
He tells you to thin because you're less likely to fuck up and give up entirely.
>>
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>>49920929
Luckily, the Arco-Flagellants have the perfidious Dark Eldar cornered. The Hekatrix does not seem intimidated.
>>
>>49920920
It's fine, but the rules of photography still apply. The more light the better. I don't have the guide but someone will help I'm sure.
>>
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>>49920920
Last post in thread i promise
>>
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>>49920787
>>49920795
>>49920797
>>49920850

thanks for the tips. I'll remember to get a primer when get the paints too.

the board games are really fucking good for getting bulk minis. 40 for like $35-$65 (usually low $40)
>>
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>>49920944
Not even slightly intimidated.
>>
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>>49920880
I give up
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>>49921002
Where's your scenery from?
>>
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>>49921002
And the Scourges watch from the rooftops, taking bets.
>>
>>49921037
It's the Terraclips sets. I believe they're no longer produced, but you can still buy them in some places. Really handy for apartment gaming.
>>
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Doing final cleanup today on my third Marine and then gunna paint my dreadnought while I wait for my magnets and drill to come in.
>>
>>49920997
Very true anon, but you generally lose a bit of the fine detail, but they're certainly good practice material and it's a cool way to make the game your own.
>>
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>>49920956
Keeping posting anon, they look good.

Not great, but good, and I wanna see you improve.
>>
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>>49920834
Will I agree with you, it's good to see not-WW2 posters. That's why I did they myself, we don't see enough everyday-life ads on the remnant of imperial cities.
>>
>>49921031
I'm not saying "dont thin your paints" I'm simply saying that the way lord duncan shows how to paint uses materials much faster compared to someone using a wet palette or non GW paints.
>>
Why are watercolor brushes like the Series 7 preferred over acrylic brushes from the same manufacturers? Aren't mini paints acrylic?
>>
>>49913778
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!
>>
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Tried again on painting plasma coils. This time on a combi-plas because I dropped the plasmagun down the sink while stripping it.

How'd I do?
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>>49921097
Thanks anon
>>
>>49921180
Mostly because the Acrylic Brushes are all synthetic fibre brushes, and the Series 7 are all high grade Sable brushes (Kolinsky Sable for the most part).
Natural fibres keep better than synthetic ones, and natural fibres are less rigid.

I'm fairly sure it's in part a preference thing, but as long as I've been in this hobby (going on 20-25 years now) the preference has always been Kolinsky Sable brushes, not synthetic acrylic brushes.
>>
>>49921265
>droopy lasgun

I don't know if you can help it, but if you can, undroop that poor barrel.
>>
>>49921313
I cant, at least safetly. I tried it on one guy and the barrel starting to break, even with just minor bending.
Its one of those "It doesnt move or moves too much" type of metal too.
>>
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>>49921248
1. Cropping the image a bit with something like Paint (which is easy to do with the free 'advanced' version of paint) will help folks see your work more easily and give you better feedback.

http://www.getpaint.net/download.html

2. You might try one more layer of very light blue-white applied / dry-brushed to just the top most edges of your ridges to give it that 'white-hot' look.
>>
>>49921378
Heat and twist.

The "moves too much" can be exploited with lateral movement too.
>>
>>49921405
Ill try that with the next batch, thanks
>>
>>49920901
>>49920929
I considered getting that cardboard terrain a while back. Is it fun and/or practical to play on?
>>
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>>49917469
Troupe master mostly finished. Wondering the best way to highlight checks - the chest ones are too small for me to highlight them normally I think
>>
>>49921002
>2.12 MB, 4000x2664
fuck off, resize it beforehand
>>
Sup /wip/ , I want to do a ranger/forest green type scheme for my tau. Have them based in a forest or jungle environment.

My question is , what colors should I use? I haven't painted green before and I'm not sure what to base or use as a secondary color. Any ideas?
>>
>>49921658
It's pretty decent. Setup requires a bit of time and pre-sorting of the pieces though. For a 4x4 table with multiple multi-story buildings, you need 3-4 boxed sets, and 3-4 boxes of connectors, so it's not cheap either.
>>
>>49921781
Castellan Green makes for a nice base.
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>>49921395
I followed up with White Scar doing just that.

Like so.
>>
>>49921759
I'm trying to drive this Taiwanese cooking site out of business by wasting all their bandwidth. Don't tell anyone.
>>
>>49921864
All your doing is driving my eyes out of existence by making me stare at slowing loading image
>>
>>49921897
I'm sorry you live in a 3rd world country, anon.
>>
>>49914390
>thin your paints
>washes are your friend
>it's alot easier to paint unassembled models
>dont try and paint directly over black
>mold lines

Other then that it just takes practice. Take your time to clean up your models properly, and don't be afraid to build up your colours. Good job and keep it up!!
>>
>>49921835
That's what I was thinking, a nice rich green. What about secondary colors? I know brown is probably the most common, so maybe bane blade or gorthor? What about grey, do you think that would work?
>>
>>49921925
Different anon, but 4chan images have been getting slower and slower to load over the last few months. Rest of the internet's fine, far as I can tell, this place needs more hamsters in the wheel.
>>
>>49922166
Hiroshimoot is doing it on purpose to try and trick more people into buying passes and donating to 4chan. It's irritating, because I have a fairly decent internet connection and images used to load for me very quickly, but now I often wait up to a minute before the damn thing even expands.
>>
>>49921925
Yeah, Canadas pretty shitty
>>
What colour should I base with for light skin tones if I prime in black? I always struggle going from black to light colours and it just makes things muddy and the paint gets too thick.
>>
Why do people even use black primer?
What advantages do you even get from using a dark primer?
>>
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r8 my Artemis.
>>
>>49922626
I just primed some stuff white for the first time, I'll let you know whenever I get around to painting them.
>>
>>49921839
Focus is a little off, but it's hard to hold both the model and the camera still at the same time. Hopefully you like the added detail.
>>
>>49922211
feels like 1995 all over again

can't say I'm too fond of this development, even if we were warned he'd pull something like this the second those reins got handed over
>>
>>49922626
Black Primer means you can have the deepest recesses shaded already, and black works best for metallic colours, as those tend to be quite a bit uglier over white or grey.

Hell, when airbrushing, Gloss Black is often the best base for metallic paint, as it ups the shine quite a bit.
>>
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Working on my skitarii vanguard, and the wood on the rifles seems to be a detracting bit. It feels like the brown is just enough to distract with an additional color on the radium carbine without contributing to the overall scheme. Any anons with ad mech experience care to give me some advice? I was thinking of going with a metal rifle the whole way around it, but I'm not sure.
>>
>>49920860
running sounds like too thin, not too thick
>>
>>49922006
Well, there's 12 shades of brown, for better or worse. Gorthorn Brown looks better to me; I'd say if you're going for something flecktarn-inspired, I'd use Castellan, add Gorthor, and sprinkle some Straken Green over the top. That'd get you a nice three-tone camouflage that fairly closely matches real world woodland.

>>49922791
I used Rhinox Hide for the wood on my initial rifles and decided it was a bad idea. Later on, I moved to Warplock Bronze for the "wood" and stuck with Leadbelcher for the raised detailing. Since I was using Warplock Bronze for some of the details anyway, it worked.
>>
>>49922844
Interesting idea, although I'm not sure I'm confident with my ability to paint camo schemes. I drew inspiration from this
>>
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>>49922844
And would want them to have this sort of look, I think that would be pretty interesting
>>
>>49922929
>>49922947
Camo schemes don't tend to look very good, so no worries. If that's your intention, Castellan Green highlighted with Elysian Green. Symbols look to be a metallic gold or brass, maybe Liberator Gold? Unfortunately Castellan Green is the only real green offered as a base paint, so I can't really suggest anything to get the muted color of Scout Troopers.
>>
>>49922719
The result is much better in the WHTV video because... well I'm not Duncan.

It's an acceptable result for the time I put in, my skill level, and the tiny detail that's there. Although I'm gonna have to git gud pretty soon since I'm building a DA army.
>>
>>49922963
Hmm I'm not sure either but I'm going to give it a whirl. Thanks for recommending the colors, I'm horrible with color choices and usually stick to the box art.

I think I'll do the infantry units in the more vibrant green scheme and the suits/vehicles in a more grey scheme like the trooper. Maybe I'll even change the bases up a bit, lots of foliage around the infantry but include more logs and water around the suits.

What do you think of basing for flyers? Should I just leave the drones on clear stands?
>>
>>49922963
Death World Forest may be a good green for this effect?
>>
>>49922626
it is easier to get darker colours constantly.
>>
>>49913778
Always rumembah ta thin ya paints 'n get a nice, fine tip on ya brush!
>>
>>49922668
Artemis looks coked out of his fucking mind here
Also, spend a little more time on his sword to clean it up a bit, perhaps do some highlight on the runes
>>
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>propainted
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>>49923280
... ouch!
I have that pair of miniatures (Kingdom Death's Satan Twins), but that paintjob...
That's a crime against art man, do not post such filth...
>>
>>49923280
It looks like they stepped out of a grainy VHS tape.
>>
>>49923280
300 dollerydoos
>>
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>>49923322
Btw where the hell can I find this game?

looks intredasting as fuck.
>>
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>>49922844
So I'd warlock bronze the base of it, and use leadbelcher to highlight the 'wood' and brass scorpion for the detail work?

Another related question is I'm going for a Mezoan color scheme, which is crimson and gold. The crimson I'm pretty solid with Khorne Red, Evil Sun Scarlet and Fire Dragon Bright for given their scheme and fire association, but there are several different golds out there ranging from Retributor, and Gehenna to Auric. Which can an anon give me an opinion on would world best with the red pallet I described? I tried Retributor but the base was so yellow, I don't know if the layer or shades make it darker. Meanwhile Balthasar gold looks like Copper, and Auric is pretty damn bright as well as a layer. Gehenna looks like it might be good but my bottle looks like it's split between red ink and goldish sludge that does not mix.
>>
I'm going to paint up a gold and purple skitarii force. Do you guys think I should go with grayish light purples like daemonette hide or full on Genestealer purples.
What paints should I grab for either? I'm clueless right now, the GW range only seems to have dark purples, hardly any light grayish stuff unless I'm being an idiot.
Also what do you think of red for the electrics/powered parts?
>>
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castrol super clean is safe on resin right?
>>
>>49923280
I've been painting for a month and my Shit looks better than that. I'm downright offended.

Also
>300$
Then my shits worth 800$, hall of fame painted
>>
>>49923470

Yeah but it destroys super glue if I remember right
>>
>>49923354
Kingdom Death: Monster will be launching a second kickstarter on black friday in november. The core game will either be available in the kickstarter, or there will be an indipendant wave-2 preorder for it.
>>
>>49923354
Important point, those miniatures are not part of the game.
They're pin-ups which Adam always had made to help fund the game itself (which does not have such sexualised miniatures).
The Satan Twins were a stretch goal for the kickstarter of the original game.
They don't have game content, but it was a promise by Adam to make his interpretation of Satan if we hit $666,000 (we blew past that, we ended at $2 million).

The game does have cool Body-Horror monsters and some really cool humanoid miniatures, some of the best in the industry in fact.

As for Kingdom Death: Monster (the board game) that is currently sold out through normal channels.
You might be able to find a scalper copy for several hundred dollars, but consider that the basic game cost $400 from the Kingdom Death store, scalper copies will be way more than that, DO NOT FALL FOR IT.

Now, on getting it for a half-decent price.
Adam has announced a Kickstarter for the 2nd printing of the game.
That Kickstarter will launch on Black Friday (November 25th this year if I recall correctly).
Do not count on getting it for less than $275, as that was as low as Adam went with pre-orders the first time around.
And that price may well be reserved for "Early Bird" backers only, he'll want to actually not turn a loss this time.

Us first-run backers got it for far less, but that was before everything was finalised.

I will be backing this 2nd KS, as Adam will without a doubt add some new stuff I want to get my hands on.
>>
>>49923354
>>49923520
To be fair, that price is more about the rather limited run of these models.
Adam only had 500 of them made, they sold out in minutes.
They might get an Encore run at some point, but no guarantees.
>>
Any examples of guardsmen in death world forest instead of castellan green?
The latter seems a little dark.
>>
>>49923544
>buying a 400$ board game

Am I far gone enough to do it?
I don't know...

>>49923545
>$275
Man oh man.
I don't think I should, I don't even have friends to play it with :(
I should stick to paint minis and be by myself.
>>
>>49923521
thanks

alternatively, is there anything I can do to salvage the model?
>>
>>49923745
>>$275
>Man oh man.
>I don't think I should, I don't even have friends to play it with :(
>I should stick to paint minis and be by myself.

You can play the game by yourself, the game supports 1 through 6 players, though there are modifiers for 5 and 6, as you have more fighters on the board at that point.
Solo may well be a little easier, as there won't be any discussion on how to spend resources among the players.
>>
>>49923417
Gene stealer purples are good solid colors, deamonette hide is a nice inner robe color for them though. You mean the various lenses and the radium parts? A good contrast while staying in alignment with the purples. Gold I'd use for details, but I'm not too sure I'd use it for the main metal like the helmet and armor. A clean silver would be better for that imo.
>>
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I want to use the new Ironjaw megaboss as a termi chaos lord.

But he doesn't have a head-bit, just a face.

Any clever ideas /WiP/?

I was thinking of maybe trying to add a top half to his neckguard and make it look like a closed helm of somekind
>>
>>49923840

Use an obliterater/mutaliator face

Dremel it's face off and create a hole for a chaos termi head

File his face off and greenstuff a big tzeenchy eyeball on the scarred up remains
>>
>>49923745
You can legit play it singleplayer, or you can use it to go to your FLGS and make new friends. Girls seem to dig this game, no joke.

>>49923840
nigga that's an expensive model to use for a conversion like that.

Remember that orks have a hunched posture, so replacing the head will still look awkward since the shoulders will be oddly positioned. In addition, orks have long arms.

What exactly about the megaboss makes you want to use him as a base?
>>
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>>49923280

lol I've got a small folder full of stuff I found on ebay listed as "pro painted". Pic related.
>>
>>49923821
Cheers mate.
I think you're spot on to be honest, gold wouldn't work as the main metal, I'll try storm host silver maybe.
Just a quick question to anyone reading, how hard is it to paint yellow recently? If I were to just want a bright yellow for small details.
>>
>>49923470
Yes, it will NOT damage resin, epoxy putty, or the like. But it will debond superglue joins. I've used CSC on plastics, metals, and resin models without issue. Other than stupid thick Testors enamel paints, CSC has removed pretty much everything else without harming the underlying mini or model.
>>
>>49924140
For yellow you're going to want something that it can actually cover as a base, which isn't a wide array of colours.
You'll want to paint those details in a cream or tan colour or something so that your bright yellow can actually cover it properly.
>>
>>49924201
Alright, thanks. I think I'll grab some practice models then, wouldn't want the expensive ones looking rough.
>>
How heresy is filing bayonetts and bayonett lugs from lasguns?
>>
>>49924336
What will your poor guardsmen do when their commissar tells them to fix bayonets?
>>
>>49920729
I've painted those exact minis. There's a scale diffrlerence. Most war games are heroic and dnd minis are realistic but otherwise exactly the same.
>>
>>49924000

He's bulky and I want a termi that looks intimidating and because I have expendable income and poor impulse control

Ha, not really. I buy from China.
>>
>Lahmian Medium vs Vallejo Thinner Medium

Someone convince me to get one over the other.
>>
Does simple green go bad? I think I have a 2 decade old bottle my grandfather had. Do you need to water it down?
>>
>>49924336
...Now I'm convinced someone has magnetized the bayonets on their IG Lasguns and before any assault painstakingly affixes them all
>>
>>49923840
>But he doesn't have a head-bit, just a face.
Not sure what you mean by that.
But I think the heads from the hellbrute kit would look good on a chaos termie lord
>>49924000
>Remember that orks have a hunched posture, so replacing the head will still look awkward since the shoulders will be oddly positioned. In addition, orks have long arms.
>>49925099

The posture is okay I think since termies also have the bulldog statue.
Just have to rebuild the back entirely with exhausts and the like to to make it look right.
Adding proper marine style shoulderpads - just bigger - would also go a long way to sell the look.

Dunno how much bigger the Orruk kits are but maybe you can kitbash it with one of those walking armory guys. Forgot the name. Dudes in termi armor that had their weapons fused to the armor.
They've got bits and bobs of bigger armor. The chaos prince kit comes with some useful bits too I think.
>>
>>49921704
Use a sewing needle instead of a brush
>>
>>49925138
Lahmien works. I put that shit on everything.
>>
Hi wip, im going to be building the 1ksons half of the burning of prospero box, as well as making some companion chaos familiars and Spire Guard- I want to base them as if theyre fighting in the battle of prospero itself. I'm going to do a red and white brick street theme, but I was wondering what are some other touches i can put in to make it look like a warzone? blast and bullet holes obviously, but i was thinking maybe burning tufts of scrolls or broken machinery, does anyone know where i can get these kind of little basing bits?
>>
>>49925138

One comes in a dropper bottle, the other requires a clean brush any time you decide you need more of it.
>>
Should I strip 4 dreadnaughts, 20 tac, 5 terminators, and a Chaplin I painted 8 years ago and have them painted the same colors as my imperial guard? Should I strip my imperial guard too? I got half a bottle of simple green.
>>
>>49920860
>Get done with a squad of orcs.
>Go to spray with varnish.
>Grab the white primer instead.
Could be worse, anon.
>>
>>49925712
I mean if you want to, they're your dudes
>>
>>49925566
Well, I actually already own some Lahmian Medium, but I transfered it to a dropper bottle. I'm mostly wondering if it's just better to get Vallejo's stuff if it works as good or better and avoid the hassle of trying not to spill the Lahmian.
>>
>>49925138
Why wouldn't you just buy a bigass bottle of liquitex?
>>
>>49926040
Unless you're talking about a thinner medium that they make and not Flow-aid, I didn't know they made a medium. I have a bottle of flow-aid I dillute into smaller dropper bottles with water. To my understanding lahmian is better to thin for blending while flow-aid+water is better for general thinning or multiple thin coats.
>>
>>49913778
always rememba to thin ya paints, and get a fine tip on ya brush.
>>
>>49926100
Yeah, to be more clear i just mean any artist/craft store medium that can be found ranging from ultra matte to gloss (here in Southeast US this is mainly liquitex and golden), which you can dilute if desired with water and/or flow aid/retarder. Is there something magical about lahmian? I thought it just fell somewhere along the spectrum of acrylic mediums, which are readily available for 10x better price/volume ratio. Can anyone corroborate whether there's anything special about lahmian aside from the complimentary bumdrilling you get with every GW purchase?
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