WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

>local professional painter compliments my marines' paint job
t-thanks

When was the last time someone made you feel good about one of your projects?

>>49702309
When the bastard plastered all my models on the store Facebook without asking

No one responded last thread...
Can I make rubble piles and floor/rock gravel ground out of plaster or is there a drawback?

>>49702398
the downside is it's fucking heavy and brittle, otherwise no

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ork skorcha guy from last night. took /tg/'s advice and touched up the skin

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dirtied up the tires with a thinned recess layer of balor brown brushed over with skavenblight on the raised surfaces.

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Working on my Rangers...

>>49702590
Really digging how that red coat looks.

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In the middle of working on this here cock. Does he look okay? I was trying to do research on the actual bird but they are so vibrant and I wasn't sure how to recreate it. The orange really pops and the darker feathers are okay I guess.

>>49702762
>war chicken
I never knew I'd like this so much.

>>49702590
These look great so far. Much cleaner and nicer than mine are. How'd you do the arc rifle effect? Just a drybrush?

>>49702762
I just want to say i'm proud of /tg/ for refraining from making the obvious jokes for the duration you've been working on the model

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Corsair Reaver Band for Kill Team or maybe allies. Kit-bashed from leftovers instead of paying FW prices.

>>49702820
sorry in advance
>>49702762
that cock goblin has some mould line problems sir

How do I submit a pic from my phone without it coming in upside down or some shit?

>>49702368

I suppose he should have asked you before posting models that weren't his, but why does this bother you?

>>49702762

You've got a big cock, anon.

There are gaps and mold lines.

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Youz in da wrong neighbyhood 'oomies.

>>49703760
Overall refinement could be neater, but I can't find a single thing were I'd go "you did that wrong".

These boyz look ready to get krumpin!

>>49703814
Thanks, been working on a green tide backlog. Painting boyz all day is rough.

Planning on working on custom terrain for my LGS. Right now most of what's there is total junk. Modular, urban terrain, for their monthly Kill Team game and for open play. If I'm building it in tiles, what should I use as the base? Looking for 6"x6" or 12"x12", and fairly robustly built. I don't imagine plasticard would work well for the latter part, would it?

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Mostly done Walker for Dust. First time salt chipping, and I tried a different technique for just about every panel. Still a lot of refining, but it's coming along. Not gonna use this one in a game (because it's...lacklustre on the table) so I figured it's the perfect model to test the chipping on.

Time consuming, but easy to do. Learned pretty quickly that less is more, and that taking the time to grind the salt unevenly makes it a lot more believable. The first pic, the flat side of the cockpit, was the first attempt, and you can see how it looks too regular (almost like a camo scheme). The panel behind it that's protruding was the last piece I painted, and the one I like the best.

Also the asshat I bought it from glued the gun, armature and armor plates on with fucking steel or something, I couldn't get them off, so that's why there's no detail on some of the bits.

And yes, there's a big fucking seam on the hull below the turret, but eh. I'd have to sand it down and repaint it, aaaand not gonna do that.

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Panzer IV Predator is coming along nicely.

>>49702572
Looks rite proppa orky

Unrelated, am I the only one who doesnt like the kromlech ork scuplts at all?

>>49704466
I don't really like them either, their faces just look too droopy to me.

Anyone got an updated where to buy magnets and shit? Miniwargaming link is dead for me.

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Finished my first miniature today, for the most part. I still need to touch up some parts after looking at it through the photo.

I'm very proud of it, even though it looks like shit in this photo.

I think the biggest issues were that my Primer that came with the set was bubbly and chunky as shit when I opened it. I'll go by my local GW and see if I can get a replacement for it and the other paints in the set that were globby.

>>49704603
A lot better than most peoples first minis m8. I'd recommend a shade and dry brush of a step lighter shade of blue.

>>49704592
You can get a metric ton of them for super cheap on ebay - a couple hundred for 10 bucks, usually. Just find the size you need and take a look, I'm sure you'll find them there quite easily.

>>49704662
I hadn't done the blue shade thatcame with the set because I was worried it'd be TOO dark.

They're also the only colors i've got.

>>49704714
Thats the reason for the lighter shade of blue, the shade is supposed to stick around in the crevices where your brush cant get to such as the belt buckle, the tubes on the face, and the edges of the knee pads. Try mixing a little bit of white with your blue, or just getting a tiny bit of your current blue on your brush and get most of it off, then lightly brush it against the armor.

>>49704755
Well I used the shade on the crevices exclusively, instead of full coverage.

I'll definitely try the white+blue mix tomorrow

>>49704803
Yea, you don't want to be shy with it since you can pretty much fix anything that goes wrong.

Late night bump.

>>49702572

How did you get the side of the front wheel to look like rubber? All the little texture scuffs and stuff, its cool

>>49705983
10am isn't late night friendo.

>>49704603
get some gold on top of that bronze.

>>49706040
i primed it black, washed with nuln oil. after i dirtied it a bit in the recesses with 50/50 water and Balor Brown, i did a heavy drybrush with skavenblight dinge for the greyish colour on the rounded edge of the tires

>>49703916
maybe buy the premade 2"x2" tiles from a company like secretweapon- you can get a pack of four or five for like, 100 AUD i think? about 1/5 the price of GW. then you can just make buildings and place them wherever.

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>>49704466
i dont mind their gobbos. but the orks, while having a bit more detail, can be trickier to paint.

although i have probably spent like, 500 AUD on kromlech stuff.

>>49704126

Needs a longer barrel & shurtzens imho, but good job anyway

>>49704126
Glue on a few more 40k bits.

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Just finished the swag ass shoulder plates

>>49706476
you DO know you're going to have to buy/craft a snarling wolf's head to serve in stead of the one supplied, right?

>>49706491
Mines being 3d printed as we speak :^)

Let's say you had a bucketload of fantasy Humans, Elves and Dwarfs to paint, and were rushing them with a basecoat and a wash of Agrax.

Which single Citadel flesh paint is the most versatile? I think I've narrowed it down to Kislev Flesh or Cadian Fleshtone.

Like, I can add a hint of red to make it more pink for the Dwarfs, or shades of white and yellow for the Elves.

>>49706738
i think prime white and wash with reikland fleshshade.
for pale flesh, one coat and a highlight of pallid wychflesh.
for humans, two coats and a highlight.

add some carroburgh crimson for joints and details

>>49702762
Looking good. Are you gonna make its claws a different colour to the rest of its feet?

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>>49706950
I was thinking of just doing a lighter yellow? I'm not sure to be honest.

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>>49702309
>When was the last time someone made you feel good about one of your projects?
Nearly everytime I post it or some of the models.

>>49702368
>When the bastard plastered all my models on the store Facebook without asking
That's nothing. I had random people download my photos and post them on other boards as their own projects.

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>>49707150
your krieg make my krieg look like shit

>>49707179
Its true, and yours ARE really good.
That dude just isn't human, must have one more pair of hands and eyes.

>>49707150
I cannot understand what the point would be of posting someone else's minis as your own! Albeit, those look fucking rad, so if someone was to do it I would not be suprise day someone doing it to them!

>>49707150
could you detail us a step by step of how you did those treads?

>>49707179
>>49707203
lol, thanks, but if you look at my Krieg in detail, you'll find that I really just cover them in green color, black wash and some lazy drybrushing. The bases and mudd on the minis is also pretty lazy and quickly done. It's just that this makes them all blend together pretty well. I sometimes wish I had more patience for non-metal metalics or something like that.

I think your Krieg look good, though I don't think the combination of blue and green works that well. Personally, I'd base them a different way, but that's just preference.

I love to see Krieg in other colors than mine!

>>49707238
Couldn't understand it, too. You'll sometimes find someone posting a pic in a thread like this and people will think it's his and he'll gladly accept the compliments ...
But the biggest copycat was some French dude. He had a whole thread on some board about his new project, with all of my pictures. When I posted something new in my project he'd immediately post it on his thread, too. Some people on that board didn't even believe me. Ah, I took it as a compliment, it was annoying, though.

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All done but the base.

>>49707286
No magic there, same as I do my bases and the dirt on everything else:
Woodglue, fine sand, fine saw dust (irregular sizes/different grades make for irregular looking mud), some drops of water, depending on the thickness of the mix
Apply and let dry.
Paint with different tones of brown (I put two drops of different browns next to each other and dip the brush in both, sometimes only one, ...) and after that, wash with a dark brown or black wash.
Lastly, drybrush with the same brown tones to cover everything from lightly to heavy.

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first model I have painted in ten years.
before I started I watched a lot of Duncan's videos and done the same stages as he did.

>>49707335
well done, i find it hard to achieve a bright green that consistent. what paints did you use?

>>49702762
It is a start.

Thin your paint a little more and clean those mold lines

>>49707375
your first model in ten years is better than a lot of peoples models after ten years of painting.

good job!

>>49707376

Thanks, anon. The skin in Waaaghh Flesh, covered by Warboss Green.

Beil Tan Green wash over everything.

Re-highlight with Warboss Green.

Fine highlights with Skarsnik Green.

>>49707375
looks really great, but the blues could use some more thinned down highlights, the contrast is pretty stark.

>>49707460
I agree, I painted some dark blue shade over a light blue base coat, but the result didn't go like I hoped

>>49707490
the gold looks amazing, though. and I agree with >>49707384
because there are so many 'blogs' on places like bolter and chainsword where you see some dude who's posted for 5 years and still is painting the same exact models that look like what a 5 year old would paint. while your model looks a bit above what I see in tabletop standard.

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Just started collecting blood angels, how am i doing? also any tips for edge highlighting black?

A lot of the pictures in this thread are 404-ing for me, how come?

>>49707539
Dude awesome, how did you do the claws?

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What color should I use for those fuckers hairs? Green is horrible, I was thinking brownish yellow but I'm not really sure... the one in the middle has hairs painted purple and white as the rest of the body.
Halp

>>49707965
Assuming the swords are going to be a different colour, I honestly think the white looks good. (That is the pure white of the left and right models, not the purple-white of the middle dude.)

>>49707505
I simply did what Duncan is doing, shading the base coat and add some highlight and edge highlight on top

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So, a friend gave me a large bag of mutant chronicles plastics (the ones Prince August sells/used to sell) and I was wondering how I could use those to make some bitchin Imperial Guard.
I don't really like their stock look so some conversion ideas/links would be most desirable.

Pic related, one of the few images I found on the internet of said minis converted.

>>49708095
The swords are going to be blue or something. So, white is good...should I then make some shadows in grey? Pure withe with no details is boring

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>>49706083
Was 2am where I was, so neeehh

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The more I look at it the more I don't like the 3 claws. Looks fine from the side but from the front something just looks off.

So 3 claws, 2 claws, or full on Mad Cat mode?

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>>49708550
>or full on Mad Cat mode?

Need you ask?

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WIP of my minotaur army for age of shitmar.

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>>49709056

>>49708550
madcat feet best feet you filthy clanner

>>49709065
A Clanner would never use the vulgar term "Mad Cat."

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What works best with a dark blue: Copper, brass, or gold? For a skitarii/cult mech army.

>>49708550
it looks off because you need a 4th claw off sideways. All claws pointing forward with 3 claws doesn't work. Look at chickens feet, even they have that 4th little nub off to the side

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WIP Magus.

I'm finally getting around to finishing him, just did the staff figure.

It's weird, I have painted the gem and it looks like a typical gem in person but its not showing in the photos, weird.

>>49709097
I'd like copper plus you would have the option to use oxidation and tie it back to blues

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How do I stop washes from leaving that annoying smear on large flat surfaces?

>>49709381
Don't paint them on large flat surfaces? Washes are supposed to go into recesses so take a small brush and paint them there instead of slapping them onto the whole mini.

>>49709097
Gold is used all the time, and brass isn't too far off. Rarely do you get the chance to do pure copper, and Mechanicus forces are perfect for that.

>>49709381
Use a glaze or a heavily thinned down dark paint.

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Hey /wip/!

I got into the hobby a little over a year and a half ago playing Grey Knights, and I recently grabbed a kit of Termies to try out better my improving skill.

Now, looking at a guy I did at the start and one I'm working on now, I'm rather horrified at the old one, which leads me to wonder if I can fix him.

How should I go about stripping the model? He wasn't primed (I know, I know, but I was new) if that helps, but I'd really like to fix them. Any recommendations? Preferably something that wouldn't erode the details too much. Thanks

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>>49709573
>How should I go about stripping the model? He wasn't primed (I know, I know, but I was new) if that helps, but I'd really like to fix them. Any recommendations? Preferably something that wouldn't erode the details too much. Thanks

Use pic related - soak the model in some in a glass jar. Leave the mini in overnight and then - wear some rubber gloves (like kitchen cleaning gloves) and some eye protection and use an old tooth brush. Hold the model under some running water and brush away any of the remaining paint. Castrol Super Clean is used to remove grease and oil from engine parts. It won't damage plastic or metal. However it will debond super glue joins, and you don't want it on your skin or in your eyes.

>>49709139
Nice! Now I have no choice but to capture and enslave you to paint all my Nid cult minis! (As for the gem, it's similar in value to your background so it doesn't stand out. Odds are good if you shot the mini against a lighter or darker background the gem would stand out more.)

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New Space marine chapter I'm working on.

>>49709731
THIN
YOUR
PAINTS

>>49709731
uh?

>>49709731

Cream / white is a brave choice.

Your paints need a bit more thinning, apply them to palette and aim for a milk consistency.

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WIP of a Fenrisian Wolf.

Not sure if I'm going to use it. Might use it as a Chaos Hound in KT or something.. I don't have Space Wolves.

What do you guys think? The pictures became a bit darker than it appears. A friend suggested applying black to the topmost parts of the fur.

Also, what colour should the eyes be?

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>>49709804

>>49709818
I was thinking yellow/hazel, but the entire wolf is almost that colour. Would that really look good?

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>>49709804
Wolf eyes should be an ochre yellow.

>>49709828

it needs to be a brighter yellow and yes it will look good but you need to be careful, you need to steady your hands, poorly painted eyes can fuck up a model.

>>49709783
Thanks, going for a bone color still a ways from done

>>49708550
I like the third one best. Like >>49708981

>>49709830
Wolf eyes vary in color from green to brown to yellow. But technically speaking fenrisian wolves are not really wolves but alien animals which just happen to look similar to terran wolves... so their eyes could be any color you like.

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>>49709139
love the blending and colours

>TFW you need to take a long break from painting because the screen on your window is damaged and bugs fly in as a result.

It's either that or paint outside, and I don't think I wanna do that in this weather.

>>49710029
Go buy a pair of $1 panty hose and fix it then?

>>49709878

>not really wolves

that's right

>but alien animals

haha, no.

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End my life.
I haven't even hit the quarter mark.

>>49710086
That's gonna be really, really heavy and fragile.
Also, why is there so much debris in the middle of the building?

>>49710094
I still need to build the remains of the second floor, going for ruined and collapsed building.

>>49710029
fix it man, what are you doing with your life

>>49710171
>>49710052

Just recently changed jobs, absolutely no funds, medical bill I need to pay, and still live with my parents.

I'm hoping shit will improve when I finally get my first paycheck, but >student loans.

>>49710086
Ooo a gingerbread rubble!

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building a Trukk from a pair of dollar store jeeps and some bits.

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>>49710260

>>49710260
It looks pretty good but you went overboard with the glue.

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>>49710244
>When the arts and crafts store has no foamboard in stock but hundreds of clipboards for 50 cents a piece
Surprising durable, gotta see how it treats paint though.

>>49710076
You might want to read the HH books

>>49710329

I think you need to re-read them.

>>49710086
>plaster

Why not using styrofoam?

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>>49710329
>Expecting me to read that trash when u could just look up wikis

>>49710357
Some of the novels are really nice though

>>49710350
Hates spraypaint, poor texture, very obvious to tell when its used.
I wanted a moldable putty that wouldnt cost a fortune. In all honestly Im not worried about the fragility as im just using it for display and armies on parade.

Duncan makes everything look so easy.

>>49710414
depends on the paint and the actual foam you use though.

after seeing this series of videos i'm 100% convinced that styrofoam is superior

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_t0iLaWtp9M&list=PLydMENLBrqdqAUgdD_CcS9DWBtMYVbhiH&index=11


>In all honestly Im not worried about the fragility as im just using it for display and armies on parade.

It will be super heavy though..

But good luck.

>>49708550
you missed one obvious 4th possibility for layout which might work:

two squared toes on the front, and a claw on the rear.

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This is my rough out together together for a canoness I've been thinking about. Unfortunately, I filed too much under the combi and I have a hole that I should be able to fill with GS. It's the top I'm concerned with.

I want to keep the wing, but don't know how to make it look right.

Thoughts?

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>>49710260
>>49710280

Added more bits and primed it. Planning on painting it in bad moonz yellow

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>>49710759
>>49710281
Yeah, hopefully once its painted it won't be apparent. If the texture stands out I can see if I can paint it to appear as rust.

>>49710534

That gun looks like utter shit.

For fucks sake, cut the weapon from the hand and buy a fucking combiplasma from any bit store. They're cheap as shit.

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>>49710759
>>49710780

>>49710780
>>49710759

That engine needs wires or exhaust pipes that link it to the hood by the sides.

You also need a roof badly. Or a rollcage that has the shape of a roof.

You could also add doors in the form of Ogryn shields or even Storm Shields

>>49710785

It's not hardly finished yet...

>>49706439
Waiting on a turned aluminum barrel to come in the mail, my PaK-40 kits came with them and now I never want another plastic gun barrel if it can be helped.

Currently working on un-fucking the Schurzen; the mounting brackets are a joke and do not match the turret geometry properly. Got the shits up so had some fun dry fitting the wheels and tracks instead, and chaining down more track units. While thinking of ways to make it more Chaotic I figured heavy chain securing everything ties it into the rest of the force as they also have random bits of chain, as does the Dreadnought.

>>49706461
Will do, I want a couple Chaos icons in places and some trophy spikes, but not too over the top. Also thinking of having a chainsword/axe tied down with the other tools for a little more 40k flavor.

>>49710837

Its shit. Accepti it and buy a plastic combi weapon.

It's not just the cut and paste. It's the terrible design that doesnt make sense and the HUGH MUNGUS size, which is absolutely out of contezt for what combiplasmas are.

Just cut the hand from the body of the gun and glue a fucking decent combiplasma. It looks terrible as is and there's nothing you can do to change it from where you're at.

>>49710808
I think while those are decent suggestions they're not really necessary. I especially like it open topped.

I will say he should probably do another pass with the primer. Good that you're working with thin coats, but you should probably make sure that white's solid.

As for the decision to go Bad Moonz - well, no accounting for taste.

>>49710897

Wether you do it open topped or not, the lack of at least a rollcage (the outline of a structure) at least in the front seats make the truck look like feeble, weak vehicular crap.

Like a plank with wheels.

Those rims are also too wide for how thin the tires are. Unless it's an urban truck, of course

>>49710534
That is comically big and I can't see her lifting that thing, let along aiming with it.

>>49710759
If you get a driver and a gunner in there it will looks pretty swell. Still good job, would loot.

>>49710808
I'll experiment with some ribbing with a canvas roof (made of paper perhaps?) for the back, see what I can do. It could very well improve the looks if done right.

I do have a spare storm shield I could add as A driver side door. I'm not interested in adding a roof over the cab in this design though. Maybe the next one. This project was inspired by a contest from my flgs. Its been such a joy I'm considering making a fleet of them and eventually a whole warband.

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>>49710964

>>49710897
I did notice it needs another coat, it has to be pure as the arctic snow before I start the yellow.

>>49710916
I agree wires into the engine would be a nice touch, I'll look into it, what material would you suggest for that effect?

>>49710950
I do have a driver and a gunner that have yet to be installed. I'm painting them separately and will install them as one of the last steps.

>>49711042

Thin tubes or thick cable tubing painted silver will do.

>>49710980
Ooh, ok, that's feasible! Thank you!

>>49710759
>>49710780
>those gigantic rims with low profile tires
Can't tell if horrible or proper pimp for Bad Moons.

>>49711061
Now contemplating spinning rims...

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I want to convert Bloodreavers into various types of gladiators.

Does anyone know of any bits to use for tridents, nets and javelins in an appropriate scale?

>>49711072
>spinning rims with blades
propa orky

>>49710837
It's just way too long, dude. Either buy a premade combi like >>49710860
says or do something else entirely. Got any spare plastic plas pistols? Try integrating the that with the bolt pistol, and possibly the foregrip and barrel from a normal bolter.

>>49711073
Dark Eldar Wyches.

>>49709731
Are they from the chapter Black (but should've been primed white) Templars?

I'm just waiting on my "Start Collecting!" set to arrive with a variety of paints.

I always see you guys advise "THIN YOUR PAINTS" but if I'm honest I really have no idea how, or, if I do, how to make my paints thickness consistent throughout the whole model, assuming I paint it over multiple sessions.

Any general advice on painting Tau is also more than welcome - thinking of going for a sky/teal blue design with white helmets/secondry colours

thank

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>>49711073
Wyches have shardnet and impaler

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>>49704055
great to see DUST stuff. not much love for the game any more.

>>49711141
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EogxYu8dgzY
this talks about thinning with water as well as using the various mediums to thin.

>>49711141

Just thin your paints anon.

With water, duh.

3 thin coats of paint > 1 coat of non-thinned paint

>>49711141
What I go for when thinning my paints on a dry pallet is almost milky: thin, liquid, but still clinging to surfaces. If some of the base layer is showing through after your first coat has dried, that's actually a good sign you're doing it right, and you'll apply a second layer and so on until you've got nice coverage.

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Casting a whole venerable dread.

plz r8 or h8

I know that i fucked the middle section of the front plate and I know exactly what I did wrong there (cut a second slit in the mold and the green stuff filled that rather than the actual space) so please just talk shit about the rest instead if you can.

Whats some good paints to get to start with?

>>49704603
Here.

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Ok I posted the board unpainted yesterday saying I'd paint it today and everybody said the board looked unpainted.
Here it is painted. Need to finish 2 skyweavers and add freehand to the second raider sail. Thoughts?

Why is like every single image displaying a 404 whenever I try to open it? Is this some more Hiro bullshit?

>>49711469
Those are some nice looking Dark Eldar.

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>>49711153
Well, with Parente nuking Warfare, it's hard to get folks into it. Damn fun though.

And I have an enormous backlog I'm working through right now - just about the entire Axis range, aside from a Wotan/Flamm-Luther. Those things are apparently made of gold and cost a stupid amount these days.

>>49711093

Yea, I have a plasic PP lying. Around somewhere. Guess. I'll just have to order combi weapons then.

How many come in the Deathwatch box?

>>49704466
Hate their faces but everything else i've seen looks okay.

>>49710185
duct tape the shit if you have to, I fucking do everything in my power to keep bugs out of my personal space

>>49711370
you may as well just buy one with the materials you're putting into a dred that won't look good in the end anyway

>>49704055
>>49711153
>>49711532
>tfw I'm sitting on a pile of Hermann and Luther that will be perfect for DarkMech Ironstriders/Dragoons/Dunecrawlers once I get off my ass and convert some infantry to go with them
Original plan was to run them as Armoured Sentinels and Minotaur tanks but now AdMech is a thing.

>>49711370
Honestly just buy one cheap from thewarstore for 20% off or ebay and strip it if you have to.

>>49707956
I've got an airbrush, so it only takes like 30 seconds, first layer was Kantor blue, then tbunderhawk blue, then Pure white

So, it's getting cold and rainy. And I have shitton of unprimed stuff. To what temperature it's resonable to use spray primer? How about humidity?

Anyone else here have this absolute hate for painting Space Marine backpacks?

I happily put tons of time into detailing even any regular tactical marine until it comes to the fucking backpack.

No idea why that is but god do I hate them.

>>49713157
I'm just doing the metal bits on my Blood Angels today. It's annoying. There's too many little bits that you're not sure if they should be metal or red.

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Well fuck. I'm back in the hobby.

Been gone for about 4 years, haven't played a game since 5th, and now Genestealer Cults.

Fuck.

Whatever, I didn't want money anyway.

I cleared off my desk and examined my paint collection.

Vallejo: Fine
P3: Fine
Coat d'arms: Fine
Old-ass 20 year old pots of Citadel: Fine
GW pop tops: All fucked, even the sealed ones.

Enjoy some salamanders, these where the last things I pained about 4 years ago, hopefully get around to painting some more.

>>49713227
Those are some BRIGHT-ass Salamanders, but damn if they aren't good quality.

>>49713293
Everything I paint is pretty bright, I got bored of looking at dark, brooding tabletops and armies of black and purple.

>>49713227
Salamanders are *black* not black.

Otherwise very nice.

>>49713138
No higher than 82-85*F and humidity would be preferred at 0%, but my can says below 65% which is horse shit, if it's over 40% don't even try.

>>49713138
Anywhere up to 90% is okay, if it's cold enough to be uncomfortable then you're likely to have issues

>>49713386
(das racis)

Is painting miniatures bad for the environment? I feel like the answer is yes but I haven't looked into it, kind of closing my eyes and sayling "La la la" at whatever may be the answer.

>>49711469
The large flat bits of rock could do with something to break them up a bit, like scattered rocks or corpses or skulls or something. Lava looks alright, could maybe do with a bit of a smoother transition between the red and yellow.

If you hadn't already painted it I would have said to use crackle medium and make it look like the whole board is solidified rock floating on lava.

>>49713227
>>49713367
I love the bright green, it's just right. I've had the desire to make a loyalist Kill Team for a while, just to have fun with a simple scheme like that. Still torn between Salamanders and Blood Ravens though.

>>49713604
Acrylic paint isn't that bad, it breaks down. Usually the stuff you'd use to strip minis is pretty safe unless you're using gasoline or break fluid or crazy shit.

Honestly, I think the biggest impact is the metal/petrochems used to make and ship the minis, but everyone should have fun hobbies so don't feel bad about that. There's way worse hobbies for the environment out there

>>49713604

If you are that concerned about the enviroment, you should kill yourself.

Or seriously, consider that you have been gaslighted by a cult.

>>49713604
It's mostly negligible. Acrylic paint isn't inherently bad and the amount of aerosol released into the atmosphere isnt in any large amount.

Every hobby in today's society is harmful for the environment in some way or form. Keep recycling your bottles and keep up with environmental codes and you'll offset whatever footprint painting will leave.

>>49713679
>>49713712
>>49713730
>responding to obvious bait
kys

>>49713763
>Discouraging an interesting discussion of environmental repercussions of painting minis
>No u

>>49713604
Less harmful than the plastic minis themselves.

I'm trying to learn how to alter magic cards, starting with expanding full art lands into actual full art.Any basic tips I should know before I start burning through all my paint? Should I like, spray a varnish on the card before I start painting it so it doesn't warp?

>>49710534


I gotta agree with other anons. The gun looks disproportional and weird. The top not meshing is the least of your problems.

>>49713227
You painted them brown instead of charcoal black, which is weird.

>>49713227
Those are some nice Salamanders. I mean, the paint job is great, they might be contributing to the eventual heat death of my retinas though.

>>49713813
CTR pls go back to /pol/

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I still have the grip of the double vibroblade and some touch-ups to do, but I have my Royal Guard Champion mostly basecoated. He's getting a Kir Kanos color scheme.

>>49711469
It's a whole lot better than yellow. Maybe add some more sand/gravel/grass tufts/general texture if you have the time?

>>49713157
They're fiddly and annoying, yeah. They look good when the model is finished, but I never liked painting them.

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>>49711758
>Yea, I have a plasic PP lying. Around somewhere. Guess. I'll just have to order combi weapons then.
>How many come in the Deathwatch box?

Combiweapons? Which Deathwatch box are you talking about? The regular five-man squad has only a single standard bolter/uvva fing (plasma/melta only - no burna or grav) combiweapon, but if you get the generic 10-man kill team, it doubles your normal number of sprues, so you get two. If you got them as part of the Death Masque boxed set, you also get Watch Captain Artemis, who has a bolter-flamer combiweapon called "Hellfire Extremis" which belches out bio-alchemal flames that are Poisoned (2+).

In the Deathwatch: Overkill box, which nets you Kill Team Cassius, Ennox Sorlock (the Iron Hands Veteran) has a combi-melta.

>>49715431

Hrm. I'm going to need a total of 6 combi-plasma for my command squad and canoness. Extras are gravy for normal squads.

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>>49715795
>Hrm. I'm going to need a total of 6 combi-plasma for my command squad and canoness. Extras are gravy for normal squads.

You might try eBay bitz sellers. Also, while some may bear Space Marine veteran insignia, it might help you to know that the Space Marine Sternguard Veterans box has two each of single-piece combiweapons (pic related) of all four normal types (melta, plasma, burna, and grav).

>>49712342
Ooohh, with some work I think they'd work wonderfully for Admech, the light walkers especially.

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Working on some dead guard men's for my aop board.
Do they look dead? I didn't want to just cut off their limbs so I tried repositioning joints to get a corpse appearance

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Opposite angle

>>49716166
they look french

>>49716166
>when your regiment lost their Commissar but crates with Amasec remained intact

>>49716166
The two on the top right look pretty dead.

The rest look like a little kid threw his action figures around the floor.

>>49716215
How should I go about getting rid of the action figure like pose then?

>>49707335

Really pops, love the bright red with the bright green. Please post more when. You get 'em done, love to see how the unit looks all together.

>>49716192
the dead cant surrender

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Still working on it, seems a bit too bright so I might try another wash of nightshade to get it out of Ultramarines territory.
I need to get a better camera, what do you guys use to take pictures?

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>>49716419
smart phone with decent back drop or/and lighting

>>49716066

I'll have to take a look at it then. Idk if I want to buy a bunch of stern guard boxes, but if I can get them for cheap, then maybe just for the bits. Maybe I can sell the bodies or something.

>>49716666
>Idk if I want to buy a bunch of stern guard boxes, but if I can get them for cheap, then maybe just for the bits.

I think the combi-meltas and combi-gravguns go for the most. Combi-plasmas and especially combi-flamers are less valuable. The kit only comes with five bodies, but is sold at a premium price for all the options you get.

>>49711370
If you are going to cast use MIliput so much cheaper reg yellow grey trust me

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Hey guys got a couple questions.

For one, does the spare tire look better in the front, or...

>>49702590

Only gonna up from here anon. Great fucking work.

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>>49718330
In the back?


Also, I've picked up a trash taurox in a trade and need to figure out how to seperate the tracks from the chassis to mount more wheels. Any ideas?

>>49718330
>>49718355
try on putting it on the sloped back or the side behind the exhaust because both of those look worse then leaving it off.

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>>49718355
Finally, these wheels that came with it look kickass and are better scaled than the Victoria Lamb. Anyone know who made them? They have no markings to denote a manufacturer other than "DW 35059" on the sprue gate.

For bonus points, some dumbass glued the missiles to the top of the vehicle. I need to figure out a way to salvage the top or else it's gonna have a tarp thrown over it.

>>49717284
Makes sense. Sisters will never get a Grav weapon anyway. My kingdom for sisters getting a Grav flamer

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>>49704603
Here once again.

I tried my hand at dry-brushing a bit and then shading but I kinda fucked up. I think my shade is too dark or something because even when I try to not let it puddle it comes out splotchy even though i've barely got the brush loaded.

Also touched up the bronze with gold and painted the eyes red which i'm also gunna shade a small amount tomorrow.

My photo for the new stuff is on the right, but the llighting is much worse. so my apologies.

>>49713386
>>49714191

4 years ago the HH books that retconned their skin to obsidian black weren't even released

>>49714983
Fuck that mini looks nice... is it from Imperial Assault?
i've read the Kir Kanos comic books almost 15 years ago

>>49716166
They will look better once you placed some sand or texture paint around them so their positions are less artificial on that flat surface.

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You guys finish up your armies on parade board yet?

Its only 5 days away you know

>>49718579
Looks better. Remember, the only way to get to Carnegie Hall...

>>49718579
Looks bretty gud, and try loading the shade on the brush and just try to drop the shade into those crevasses. Another tip with the eyes is to paint a bit of white in there and then go over it with some watered down red so it looks like the eyes are glowing.

>>49710780
>If the texture stands out I can see if I can paint it to appear as rust.
Not rust. Embrace the imperfection and paint it as shitty welds.

>>49719628
>>49719628
I was planning on doing that, I just wanted the red base and then was gunna shade, then white, then thin as shit red.

I just wanted the reds to really pop.

How much does WYSIWYG matter in a game? I haven't played for a very long time and I'm building a veteran squad who all will have some variation of plasma/melta weapons and power swords but several of them are waving their swords around because it looks cool. Do I need to slap a plasma gun on them somewhere or does it really not matter.

>>49719938
entirely up to you and your opponents.

Recently discovered this gem of a tutorial. Thought i would share it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FayBHOhucf0

>>49720133
>2013

Do you really think this never made it in here?

>>49707150
did you ever make that thing out of lego to make your nurgle rope quicker?

>>49719938
It 900% depends on your ability to keep track and be consistent. If you can do that I'd be happy to let you proxy whatever.

>>49720143

No

but i do think it was forgotten

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silver drybrush over black primer. I think i'm improving guys, what do you think????

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>>49719938
between my friends and I this was acceptable as 'veteran guardsman'

>>49704126
What's the scale of this Panzer?

>>49720537
1/35

>>49720553
thanks mate

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>tfw paint is always too thick and everyone's face looks like it's melting off

>>49720709
you can use water and/or thinner to thin your paint anon... just in case you didn't know that

>>49703621
I'm a little late but if you open it in an image editor of some sort and then save it the orientation should be fine.

>>49720398
But anon, that's a cushion.

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>>49720854
>he doesnt drybrush his cushions
it's a purse though

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>>49719252
Yeah, it's Imperial Assault. The box art for the mini shows the color scheme as Carnor Jax (and an early demonstration version of the game actually called the mini Carnor Jax, but my understanding is Disney said no to using that name before the game was released). It's my favorite sculpt in the game, although the pose makes it tricky to paint some areas. I decided on the Kir Kanos color scheme basically on a whim.

At 15 points, he represents 38 percent of a skirmish list. Most of those high-cost figures are definitely not worth it, but the Royal Guard Champion can be. Brutality, Executor, and Speed 6 give him the possibility to squeeze out some extra action economy.

Sorastro recently made a painting tutorial using the Carnor Jax color scheme, using a dark purple instead of black, like the box/card art. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyoIuvIS9EU

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Waiting on a couple of Goliath's to arrive in the post and using spares from the Metamorph kit to upgrade some Overkill Acolytes.

I'm really tempted to paint my Goliaths either yellow. as a real industrial vehicle would be. Or maybe orange.

>>49720949

>I'm really tempted to paint my Goliaths either yellow. as a real industrial vehicle would be.

I had been thinking of doing some in grey, but you've helped me to see the light. Thanks, anon, yellow it is and can only be!

>>49720193
yes just like schnauzerfaceminis seems to forget he has a youtube channel. i wish he posted more.

>>49720949
Please give the radical genestealer a skateboard.

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Built this guy at my lgs for a pose competition for an elder kill team. Just starting them, usually a gk player.

What are some good detail brush sets + travel case?

>>49721310
Any travel case.

The only detail brushes worth their salt are w&n series 7 sable brushes, about £10 each from size 000 to 1.

My second one has finally died after 6 years of abuse.

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>>49719364
>You guys finish up your armies on parade board yet?

I only painted the one army, I already entered it two years ago, and haven't painted enough new stuff for it since to make it substantially different.

>Its only 5 days away you know

I know. I'll bring my good camera.

>>49719364
An army based for a moderatly rocky snowy wasteland does not make for an interesting base
I could do a cave entrance for my Tau but I would have to paint my Tau
also
>Orks
>using roads

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What green is this?

>>49721785
Orks use streets in one of the ciaphas cain novels too, just sayin

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This is a bad picture but this is my first model I've ever painted. I know it's terrible but I was just doing it kinda winging it. What are some easy tips towards painting better? And how can I use washes without fucking up the model? I plan to paint bolt action not Infinity but these guys are great.

>>49721785
>Orks
>not using something that gets them to the next scrap as fast as possible
Git detected.

>>49721796
That entirely depends on what the hell paint range it is. Looks like light olive. It's probably Death World Forest, maybe with Straken Green or something as a layer.

>>49721796
Looks like Deathworld forest to me.

>>49720709
A point thay many people forget is that even if you thin your paints, you have to make sure you don't overload your brush.
You shouldn't get any paint past the tip of your brush, and not much of it. You'll come back to your palette more often, but you don't drown your minis in paint that way.

Best way to get through painting a bunch of robots in metallics? It's beginning to get a bit monotonous painting the same colour over 100% of the model before I can do any of the fun bits.

How's the leadbelcher spray? Would I spray it on like a primer or does it need a primer? How's the army painter plate mail metal primer?

>>49719244
Wrong

>>49722504
>Would I spray it on like a primer or does it need a primer?

You can do without but using a primer is better ofc

>How's the army painter plate mail metal primer?

Its both, primer and paint.. so you can skip one step.

>>49722552
This magnificent bastard again!

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Almost finished Junka!

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>>49722630
And giant hairy squigs (count as snakebite grot tanks).

>>49722630
>>49722663
Damn nyugga! Can't wait to see the latter up and colored. Post another pic when you prime them, I wanna see how the conversion comes together.

I love anything that combines Ork tech with beast-taming.

Stripping paint with household objects, is is possible? I got a bottle of rubbing alcohol

>>49724161
sure

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I'm glad its over.

Damn, this rubbing alcholo is fucking awesome, just ate through the paint like it was nothing. You saved my day again WIP

>>49724383
don't soak your stuff in that, or it will eat the plastic tho

>>49724412
I knew a guy who said he'd been stripping and repainting the same minis for years. What kind of stripper do you use to achieve that without just eating out the detail on the plastic??

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>>49724544
not that anon. but this shit works in 24 hours. No details lost to date for me, and this is after 60+ minis.

>>49724564
What sort of figured have you used it on? GW details tend not to be too delicate for instance meanwhile malifaux models will shatter at a particularly spirited fart. What were the models made out of?

>>49724412
I don't leave it in long

Why do metallic paints always seem to be goey and weird, really hard to water down and use? I've been using citadel paints and I can't get the silver to be reliably useable.

>>49724622
shake it more, really give it some

>>49724622
use a medium

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>>49724609
Quick comparison shot of models that have been subject. Plastic, pewter, and FW resin all went fine. (Lord Zhufor on the right was almost entirely caked in blue when I got him)

No loss of detail to date.

>>49724681
A medium?

>>49724702
Impressive. Thanks anon.

>>49724813
A person that can talk to / channel the dead.

>>49724813
Pigmentless paint. Used to thin paints without changing their properties.

>>49724813
A shirt between small and large.

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>>49707179

I disagree, you simply have two different takes on the army as a whole.
While >>49707150 sure looks grimderp, he is getting this effect at the cost of variety. He uses a main green, to cover 80% of the model, apart from small details (that also blends in the colors of this brown/green). The base is then also the same color as the secondary color (brown), which makes it even more mono colored. Don't get me wrong, it is a grim looking army, with a weathered look. But it has spares of striking colors and a lot of the minor details is gone amiss because they follow the same flow as every other color.

Yours however is, from what I can tell, well highlighted, you use striking colors and have a much cleaner look to the models. And this doesn't necessarily have to be bad and can easily be fixed later on, as weathering is the last part of your project. Try dusting on weathering powders of different browns, wiping of excess, and lay down the dirt where it should naturally be. Simple, yet effective to get a bit more weathered look.

>>49707956

He did airbrush while not knowing you start with the brightest and work down to dark. Thus the splatter of white (common mistake).

>>49707539

As for edge, fine detail, small amount of easy controlled paint, and use edge of the brush and lightly hit the very edges. Re do this step with lighter highlights about 1-3 times, brightest on brightest points and so on.
Also tip for your airbrush, use masking tape on the black, save the red X, and highlight it with the ab, will look great, finish with edge black.

>>49721796

Olive drab, I think the GW name was Cadian camo or something like that

>>49725259
I think the splatters work in this context to be honest. May not have been what he was going for but looks pretty nice.

Could work very well on something that's meant to have stars too.

I have macragge blue, balthasar gold, mephiston red, abaddon balck, & white scar. what scheme should I go for? Preferably mostly black

>>49709928

Thought Id never say this in WIP... but that anus is gross... In a good way!

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baal predator done. i want to do weathering but is need to practice first on a spare lemann russ and watch more youtube vids

>>49725986
Great straight lines, quite clean and nice to look at. However, I think the edges need some heavy, clean highlights with a sideways brush

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Salamanders guy here.

well fuck, painted up a genestealer to tabletop quality to derust and got it just right, went to matte varnish it with my 3+ year old bottle of vallejo matte varnish and its turned it cloudy.

my genestealer is now denim coloured :(

time to buy a new pot of matte varnish.

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Chosen are finished, 7 of which form my kill team

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>>49726706

This.... This is what you have to fix.

>>49726706
dont fret too much, you'd already screwed up the model by leaving those massive mould lines on before you even put paint on it.

>>49726806

Lovely effect on the eyes, very spoopy.

>>49726845
I reaaaaallllly don't care about mold lines on a test model.

>>49726838
I have no idea why chrome decided to flip it before uploading.

>>49726806
These are great paint jobs but it also makes me think all new painters should start with Nurgle models because you can fuck up a ton and it just adds to the effect.

>>49713227

Nah man, I remember these guys and the flaming rhino. It has to be less than 4 years ago. 1990 was 30 years ago.

>>49727089
>Nah man, I remember these guys and the flaming rhino. It has to be less than 4 years ago. 1990 was 30 years ago.

Shit really? Fuck, I'm miscounting somewhere. It all seems to morph into each other when all you do is spent the days working and masturbating.

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Refurbishing the Goliath into a truck for Diggaz. Still WIP, and it will have more skulls and decorations and stuff.

Dry brushing or layering.

Which is better?

>>49727134
depends how textured the surface is. typically layering but if you are doing bone, fur, textured metal drybrushing looks better.

>>49727134

Depends

Layering is great for something with a lot of smooth surfaces.

Dry brushing is better for things with a lot creases, crevices, and hair and such.

All in all, I use both, but will be the first to admit that dry brushing is faster and often yields much better results for stuff like fantasy minis.

40k and military stuff? Layering is better.

>>49727134

Drybrushing is for when you have a textured base, such as wings for instance. Layering is for making the light appear natural, and create highlights this way, lets say a cape as an example would be a good use for this technique.

>>49727134
Drybrush when you want a rough and messy look

>>49727134
You can do layered drybrushing, just depends on the surface you're working on.

>>49727134
Guys

Basecoating or highlighting.

Which is better?

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Haven't played in about 5 years now, finally found some people local who have some interest in this game (for some reason which is beyond me) so i decided to grab some greenskins and try painting again, still got a bit to go to finish these up but the bulk of em' are done.

R8 or H8 my first attempt back after 5 years.

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>>49727396

Would it be a bad idea to glue a penny to my 25mm bases so they don't fall over? Fucking realm of battle boards keep making my shit fall over.

>>49727488
If you have slotter bases, a 2p piece fits just right.

>>49727488
use a 2p, it's 25.1mm or something like that.

>>49727488
I don't see why not but it's probably worth specifying what kind of penny is available to you.

>>49727419
Nice purple Hulk pants

>>49727545
>>49727557
>>49727579

I should mention that i'm gluing an american penny to the bottom of the base.

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Not too sure where I want to go from here, does anybody have any suggestions?

>>49727618
Glad someone noticed, that was exactly why i did it, entire force is getting done that way.

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>>49726511
thanks anon, i'd see that technic on a razorback on display in my local warhammer store, not shur if i like it. i shall see when i go weahter it, it also needs some small touchups and looking at the pics i see i missed some details

>>49727396
>>49727419
i like those anon, put some nuln oil on the metal bits and yo can go WAAAGH!!!'ing

>>49727731
they're dowsed in soft tone army painter ink, lighting doesn't do it justice but they look dirty and gritty.

>>49721546
Have fun denton guy.

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Also another from hulk smash ork bro, made a board to go with them orks, now to make orky terrain for it. any suggestions/ideas?

>>49726806
I'd love to see a more detailed description of how you did these dudes.

>>49725218
Why does he have a plasma cane? Does he need that plasma when he pimp smacks his ho's cause they didn't earn enough money that evening?

I'm giving you shit, that's a nice model. The robes look great anon.

>>49726806
>glow effects that aren't illuminating 3ft in every direction
Fucking finally someone else gets it.

Does anyone in /wip feel uncertain about how to paint a model once they've primed it? I've got some Warp Talons that I could paint red for my Word Bearers, or I could paint them blue and gold like Night Lords. So many options, I feel paralyzed by indecision.

2 things:

1: Bought a metal Grimaldus the other day, got no Servitor Cenobytes and was wondering if anyone got any ideas what I could use to convert my own, without green stuff if possible cause I really dislike working too much with it. Was thinking either roboting up some scouts, guardsmen or chaos cultists with a few BT bits

2: Friend of mine that is starting out asked me to paint his Anrakyr for him, if possible with a white-ish primary color instead of the normal grey/silver. Anyone got any tips for what colors would fit that category while sticking somewhat to the blue vibe he has going on?

>>49707539
To edge highlight black, use a grey that contrasts about as much as your other highlights will, messily apply it to all of the edges, then clean up those lines with black paint until you get them as straight and as thin as you want them. There isn't any consistent way to get them laid down perfectly on a flat black with one brush stroke, but just a little patience gets good results.

Try to use a grey that is slightly tinted with a contrasting colour as well. If your secondary colour is red, then either a green-grey or blue-grey is preferable.

>>49724975
Thanks for the not-shit answer. I'm dumb and don't know about these basic painting things.

>>49728609
>play Black Templars
>prime with Imperial Primer
>slap Chaos Black on every model
>add some red/white secondary colors randomly over parts of the model
>done

The only real decision-making I have is what skull and cross to paint with which of my handful of relevant colors.

>>49729213
I play white scars, easiest decision in my life.

>>49729343
It looks like 2 thin coats of averland sunset with a palesun drybrush and yellow glaze, in that order.

Remember to thin your paints!