WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

Shouldn't the thread be called "Work on hold", since if you're posting / reading 4chan, the work totally ain't in progress at the moment?

>>49305637
>Can't paint with one eye on the model and one on the screen

Get a load of this guy!

>>49305664
but that means you keyboard is all covered in paint and/or glue that inevitably end up on your fingers while working
that's gross

also, not everyone is gene-spliced with a chameleon

>>49305671
>but that means you keyboard is all covered in paint and/or glue that inevitably end up on your fingers while working
>that's gross
Most keyboard are covered in substances most would consider to be a lot more gross than something as harmless as paint.

>>49305709
hm, am I the only one who tries to keep his keyboard pristine?

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doing up these predator themed stealth suits for my kill team, gotta do dreads for all the 6 dudes but im slowly getting there. Any suggestions how i should go about the jungle base and camo?
Also thinking of doing skills strapped to their backs and war paint

>>49305730
I dare you to pick up your pristine keyboard, turn it over and shake it.
You'll be surprised by the debris you'll find inside.

No keyboard is ever truly clean.

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>>49305742
I'd use microart bases and add some railway/military scale model plants made of plastic or brass etch, various flocks, aquarium/terrarium plants and roots for those tiny branches or vines you want to have.
Pick a random mix of those and pour it onto your base until it looks right.

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First time slapping a modification on a vehicle.

I learned quite a bit, such as how important measuring things out and one piece slabs are even for shapes that aren't four sided, hence the uneven top and the temporary filler pieces.

All this can be cut off just in case, even though I really think I only have to cut out the top. The Heavy Stubber even has a thing going on where I can easily take it out and put it back in if I want to by hand.

Unlike the multilas which I glued in and didn't realize was canted until it was long dry goddamnit goddamnit goddamnit

Honestly even though it looks slopped a lot can be hidden anyways through a god paint job if for some ungodly reason I feel too lazy to replace the top section

Yes I know the tracks and lasgun arrays are on before priming and painting. I don't like looking at vehicles without pieces on them.

>have one too many big nights out
>hands are all shaky for 4 days now, fine motor control is iffy
>can't paint

I think I've given myself neurological damage boys

not the greatest feeling ever

>>49305774
sounds more like withdrawal, mate.

>>49305747
apart from plastic sawdust and regular dust there won't be anything
i don't eat on my keyboard, it's gross

>>49305861
This is derailing the thread somewhat, but you'll find skin, hair, dust and everything that lives inside of that.
You shed. Even if you exfoliate everyday before using your keyboard Gattaca style, you'll still leave pieces of you all over the place.

Eating would just add a few crumbs now and then. The dirt is you.

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Reposting my Necromunda/Inquisimunda gang.
A few more guys to go.

>>49305773
This is actually pretty dope Anon. Reminds me of a Cromwell tank in a way.

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cyberpunk made me do it

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>>49306683
putting heavy strain on the old bitz box

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>>49306683
bashed up this deck jockey for a laugh

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Finished manhunter for KD:M, maybe I will fix some highlights and shadings

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Started dung beetle knight, finished resin ball, knight still very much wip

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So I want to make some Necron Wraiths. Terrifying old school wraiths, but better than the old metal models that snapped in half all the damn time.

I'm just not sure what bits to invest in. The heads and tails are obvious enough. I think some converted ruststalker legs would make good spindly arms. It's recreating the torso and looming shoulders that I'm stuck on.

Any suggestions, or am I gonna have to try making them from plasticard or something similar?

>>49306875
You seem to have the skills... but your paint is very grainy. Is it related to your primer?

>>49306905
Yes, the white spray I used shat all over the minis.

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>>49306902
Depends on what/where/how much you wanna spend.

Destroyer bodies work nice, they're bigger than regular necron bodies, their arms are bigger too plus they get the nice big spine bits. If you got destroyer torsos, spines and maybe a wraith tail you could easily make something cool looking.

Squid related.

>>49305773
Addition is too thick. Thin it down from left to right, then it will be better

I would want the flat side to terminate at the angle by the hatch.

Hi /wip/, I was wondering if anyone had any tutorials or links to make up some books and barrels??

I've got some d&d miniatures from reaper to customise and paint up for some friends, but I'd like to have a go at making them myself rather than making some.

>>49306902
puppetswar sell some look alikes.
Though to be honest I'm rather fond of the original models and I'm a firm believer in 'pinning makes things indestructible'.

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Thought I was so close to finished, then I take a pic and I see so much that needs touching up...

>>49307678
sandwich some plastic card between some other plastic card to make the body and the covers. Use GS to add the spine and sides of the pages.

The barrel is a bit more tricky. If you got a bead the right size or some cheap putty to make the general shape out of it's just a matter of covering it with you putty of choice and carve the woodgrain. Then you add the metal rings.

I did that for a mini I sculpted from scratch once and the barrel he was resting his foot on took forever to sculpt.

I mean if you already got reaper minis you can just buy the reaper accessories. Or some renedra barrels.
I think it was Juan Diaz, who recently started his own company, Tiny Tales. You can get loads of decorative bits and dungeon furniture for very little money from his range too.

>>49308203
First impression is that the yelllow misses a shade between the base and the white highlights.
Painting that now after you already started the freehanding might be difficult. Maybe you can just use a brownish glaze to shade it instead to introduce more contrast to the piece.

Black parts around his head look spot on though.

>>49300324

You could check out Vallejo Train Color Basic Rust. (number 73001), it's an orangy red-brown, which may be exactly what you're looking for.

>>49308256
Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Either tone down the yellow, use less, or whatever on the highlight.

>>49304714

If you want to be safe, dunk the primed Rhino in some Castrol Super Clean or other preferred (but strong, use gloves!) paint stripper.

That said, primer coats tend to be very thin if they were applied correctly. I'm 90% sure you could get away with just priming over it, especially with a colour that is presumably fairly close to white.

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Yo /wip/, what's a good matte/flat varnish I can brush on? I tried Vallejo's but it just ain't matte enough.

>>49309362
If you're in the US, brush-on Testors Dull-cote maybe?
Just googled it mind you, no actual experience, but it seems to be mentioned on a fair number of miniature forums (Dakka, Reddit, that sort of thing).

>>49308256
>>49309183
As a third opinion i think that the yellow is too dark as is. I wouldve layered it up a bit more to contrast the neutral and black colors.

Also skin seems a little flat. Like one tone. Might be the lighting/angle though

>>49305742
they weirdly remind me of hunters from halo since they're sorta worm looking

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Maybe this isn't the place for this question, and if so I'll start a separate thread. I'm planning for an eventual D&D campaign, and I'd like to paint some miniatures for it: at least player characters, probably major villains, maybe some common foes, too (like spooky skeletons).

I know about Reaper Bones (and even picked up a couple yesterday, and they don't seem nearly as bad as their reputation). Are there any other relatively cheap, decent miniature lines on the market with about the same scale?

>>49310682
I'd recommend checking out Avatars of War

>>49310682
Hasslefree might be worth a look

>>49310682
>>49310704
>>49310726
The thing is Reaper probably has a miniature for everything.

More expensive 'high end' D&D minis are otherworld. Really worth it for some of the minis imo.

Another cheap option to look into is Northstar miniatures.
They do Frostgrave, which comes with several plastic kits, including one for gnolls like in your picture. Aside from Frostgrave Northstar has a really big catalog too though and is pretty cheap as well.

Copplestone castings is always worth looking into imo.

Foundry might also be useful. Mainly historical minis, but like Northstar the company just has a hugely versatile catalog. And most historical ranges work just as well for fantasy games after all. They do have some mythological creatures though and a lot of fun characters.
Age of Sail, Vikings, Early to late middle ages, Renaissance, contemporary, african natives, basically everything you might find on an adventure.
Between Northstar and Foundry you should be able to find just about any animal you could possibly need. Unless you need an Owlbear then use Otherworld and Reaper.

>>49310704
>>49310726
>>49310895
Thanks for the tips. It looks like I'll mostly want Reaper Bones, though. They're cheap, they seem more readily available in the U.S., and - as much as I like the heft of a metal miniature - there isn't nearly the risk of something breaking or detail getting smashed if I drop one.

>>49311632
I'll shill for Reaper Minis all day because I like their product. The selection can't be beat for fantasy stuff, but the sculpts can range from amazing to "holy fuck what were they thinking" and if you order online nine times out of ten they'll throw some free shit in your box.

>there isn't nearly the risk of something breaking or detail getting smashed if I drop one.
Unless you're being hamfisted with them, that's really a non-issue. The exception of course are thin, spindly pieces like bows, but I've had a few reaper metal pieces that have seen weekly use for a few years now and have not had a single problem with breakage. If anything, and I'm speaking from experience, you have to be more careful when handling/storing Bones minis after they're painted because once the paint dries and the miniature gets bent the paint will come flaking off in large chunks. I've had more issues with paint staying on the plastic Bones polymer than I ever have with metal.

>>49311969
I guess I hadn't looked at their metal stuff before. For the human-sized stuff, it isn't that much more expensive than Bones, and it looks like they have an even bigger selection in metal. I'll keep that in mind.

>>49312086
I haven't bought any of their bones stuff, but I've had a long hard look at a lot of pieces in my FLGS.
I'd say for infantry and human sized pieces in general bones isn't very good. Washed out detail and a rubber material are not really worth the few quid less you pay considering how much less quality you get.
However if you have a look at Ogre sized stuff or anything bigger, stuff that normally would belong on a 40mm base and cost you 15 or more bucks, bones becomes much more attractive.

>>49310253
Face and upper arms are the only skin done. Still need to do the hands. Thanks for the tips though guys, gonna go over that collar again.

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>>49306683
>>49306687
>>49306707
nice! keep us posted on progress

work on the predator continues, next up is a wash for al the metal parts and painting veins in the marble front armour

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Colourblind De/harlies/eldar guy here, do the check colours match the other colours of the bike? Cheers

>>49313162
The checks seem more of a green with a little bit of blue than the actual turquoise of the bike.
Not that it is a bad combination mind you...

>>49313240
They're green, according to the name on the pot! Kabalite Green from citadel. Not trying to match the bike, figured the green contrasts the red while the beige is a neutral tone!

>>49313162
Where did you learn to paint so well anon?

>>49313306
on /wip/. I've been asking about colours the last few months on here. My painting before was garbage. I did white and blue sisters of battle before this because I could tell the colours apart but wanted to test myself and see if I could do it properly. Glad you think it's good!

>>49313293
My apologies then Anon, I misunderstood.
The colours don't clash and form a decent complement to the blue and should contrast quite strongly with the more muted red.
The beige (I thought they were white or cream to be honest) does the job of being the counterpoint to the green.

>>49313348
It's Rakarth Flesh for colour reference, not sure how well the picture reflects the real life colours, I'll highlight it up with Pallid Wych Flesh, the same way I did the skin on my Talos!
Thanks for the kind words

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Rough wip of one of my Moon Shinobi.

>>49307208

Ha! I did this exact conversion

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Deathwatch Watch Master - headswop with a Deathwatch Vanguard Vet.

I'm wondering how to base him, (he's on a temporary base at the moment) Does GW do any nice scenic bases anymore? (I don't think they do)

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>>49313580
>Does GW do any nice scenic bases anymore?

That's a loaded question, anon. I've heard from more than one person that their "Sector Imperialis" bases look like crap in real life.

>>49309362
Testors Dull-Cote, my friend.
I've used it on a bunch of models and it's worked wonderfully. Pretty much everything you could want from a clear matte coat, aka it's not shit.

>>49313686
I don't think they look like crap, but the production models are a little less defined and blurry than the ones you see featured in pictures. They're still nice and I think still worth the price compared to the alternatives, but if you want that crisp nice details regardless of cost (or effort to sculpt), there's other options. I'm perfectly happy with what I got.

I got myself a bottle of vallejo crackle medium. I already painted my minis with rusty base and wanted to make an effect of paint that slowly falls from old armor plates.

Unfortunately all of my tests Ive made on sprues and boxes were super failures. I painted brown base, let it dry, applied layer on medium and then later of pait that was supposed to crack. I tested it with several stages of medum: wet, almost dry and fully dried. Still no cracks. When i brushed it with paint i diluted with water it instantly went off leaving blobs of medium and paint i painted over.


Any hints?

>>49313580
Look at microart bases. They make them in plenty of sizes and patrerns

>>49313777
never used vallejo's medium.
But what creates the cracks is surface tension when the paint dries. So maybe you need to apply a thicker coat of the medium?

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>>49310682
I have been painting the minis for my group's d&d characters. (Pic related, my progress so far)

All the figures are from Reaper - most from their Dark Haven Legends line, and one player ordered a completely custom figure from Hero Forge.

Honestly I would just go with Reaper. With all the different lines they offer, you're bound to find something close to what you want in a specific figure.

I'm personally not a fan of their Bones figures because I find they are kind of low quality and have poor detail. The metal figures from their dark haven legends line or others are almost always fantastically sculpted with lots of detail. They also often have different weapon choices.

Just as a heads up you will probably also want to order some bases to put them on because they tend to come on rather small basses that make them unstable on a tabletop.

>>49313422
Got a picture?

>>49314023
Actually I forgot, one of the minis in that collection is actually a Games Workshop model, a Harlequin Solitaire that I repurposed as a tiefling rogue.
I would not recommend purchasing GW models for d&d though because they are fucking expensive.

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Stripped all my tau, because my backlog wasn't big enough.

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And some flesh hounds I'm working on.
Need a second highlight on the skin, for taking pictures how many white lamps should I use? I only have one atm and it doesn't do so well.

>>49314531
>And some flesh hounds I'm working on.

Looks like a great start, anon, but there's no need to smear vaseline on your camera lens before you take your pictures. This isn't that part of 4chan.

>>49311969
Do you varnish your bones after painting them?

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Anyone have any idea's for a White Scars Contemptor? Primed this guy last night, I scored a BaC box a few weeks ago really cheap and decided to add to my existing White Scars force.

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Sorry for the blurryass photo. Working on building a display board for Armies on Parade, Need to break up the square-ness of the diggy hole my hades drill will be coming out of, but otherwise looking for opinions and such, from what can be determined, at least.

>>49315305
How cheap did you get it, and where from

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On the note of dull coat.

Tried using a dull coat spray on this guy and it ended up giving him a really dusty finish.

Probably laid it on too thick, not sure if it's the brand (Testor's spray lacquer) or all dull coats.

Tried to rub the dustiness off with some medium and it just fucked up his face paint.

Anyone else had issues with dullcoat?

>>49315475

>Thumbnail:
"ZOMG Police box!"
>Full pic:
"Aww..."

Anyone have guides on scratchbuilding ruins, destroyed buildings and terrain?

>>49315475
Looks good so far but I have been advised against using popsickle sticks as wooden planks when making terrain. Can't remember the reasoning behind it though. Sorry anon

>>49316061
https://www.reddit.com/r/TerrainBuilding/
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheTerrainTutor
His videos are pretty good.

>>49311969
I've had similar problems with mine after I paint them. If I leave them in a box/container and the models happen to be leaning on one another their paint will come off and stick to the other models. Usually it's just small pieces but it's extremely frustrating. I was spraying them with a matte finish and I don't know if that contributes to this problem.

>>49316052
leave

>>49313686
go with GW anon.

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>>49316052

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>>49316052
ANON

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>>49316486

>>49313686
some people did get what appeared to be a bad batch with muddy details, easy customer service call to get replaced

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>>49316970

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>>49317600
>pic related
to you

>>49315779
either you sprayed too much, or the conditions were wrong, was it either very hot or had recently rained?
if you give it a spray with gloss varnish that should help fix the problem but you might need to repaint that bro

>>49317859
Wouldn't gloss varnish make it... glossy?

>>49318103
respray with matte varnish again, and properly and you're set

>>49314418
What did you use the strip them? Did you scrub them clean?

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Getting back to work on my csm. I've been behind for two years and I'm half debating stripping

>>49314652
I do. For Bones minis I wait about a day after painting to allow the paint to cure and completely dry. I do one coat of Testor's Dullcote on them

>>49305637

If you're waiting for paint or glue to dry, it's a WIP.
Everyone else, quit being lazy and go work!

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I just got started on these two, how the hell do people get such smooth blends? It never looks right when I do it.

>>49315779
Humidity usually causes that. I can't spray prime or spray varnish anything here in Lousiana

>>49305742
An easier way to do those cables is winding a small wire, like 26ga or so, around a larger one, I think 22ga is the one I had, and then clipping the ends.

>>49318352
Used superclean, worked great minus some few paint in cracks. Ate the primer off, barely had to scrub.

>>49318772
>superclean
Mind if I ask your process?

>>49308203

Paint looks pretty good, my biggest complaint is the mold lines on the mini.

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Made a rocky base for my old Assault on Black Reach Dreadnaught.

>>49318860
Superclean with some windex to dilute it, put in a tuberware with minisfor 48 hours and sealed it.
After 48 hours, scrubbed minis under hot water until all the paint was off, then gave them a soapy wash and let them dry. Glued all pieces back off as it eats superglue too.

>>49315520
125$ CAD tax in. Got it at fan expo in toronto, ontario, the guys were selling it pretty cheap, it's 180$ regular price.

>>49318632

Uhm... why is there a wasp's nest behind your minis?
Paint looks good, otherwise.

>>49319192
I needed something kind of dark as a background so the exposure wouldn't be all over the place and it was close at hand.

Need inspirations for armies on parade. My models are on grey rocky bases and I don't want to do urban.
Any good grey rocky wasteland/plains/field/etc pictures

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>>49319239
Stuff like this

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>>49319011

Excellent choice!

On average, how long does it take GW to restock out of stock minis? I wanted to pick up a Waystrider or two to try out some color scheme ideas, but they're currently outta print.

>>49316224
I've never had an issue with the paint actually sticking to another model, but I don't usually leave them in contact with other models for long periods of time. What I normally do is wait 24 hours after finishing the mini before I apply any sealer to them. The booklet that came with reaper's learn to paint kit suggested that.

>>49316224
Do you let them dry for 24 hrs after varnishing? I've found that if I don't do that, or the model touches anything the paint will come right off. They really need to sit out there and dry before you let them touch anything else. I've learned this the hard way with some dungeon decor that got kinda fucked up in transport from the outdoors to the indoors.

>>49314023
How did you like painting the Hero Forge mini? I've heard nothing but bad things about the quality of their models.

>>49307208
Thank you! That's perfect for it. Unfortunately, having been out of the hobby for years, buying the bits alone would rack up to 50$. Couple that with still being unsure what to use for shoulders, and I think I'm gonna go with >>49308114
And just buy some originals secondhand. Maybe it's better to show some love to some old forgotten figures anyways. I just want a way to make them more personable.

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First time painting.

Guy on the left has a long way to go.

Guy on the right is almost ready to move onto the gold paint for his chest eagle and shoulder trim. I just need to work a little bit more on him before he gets to the gold trim stage.

>>49320581
So far so good for a first time. Your edge highlighting is a bit thick and shaky, but that will sort itself out once you become a bit more experienced and relaxed. Did you prime them in dark blue or did you paint the base coat on?

>>49320713
Primed in black with the Citadel black prime (using brush).

Next time, I'm thinking of going to a store to get black primer spraypaint. Priming with brush was a pain, and I want to use spraypaint for priming next time. But i don't want to give GW $20 for a can of primer, so I'm thinking of alternatives.

As for the edge-highlighting, it's so hard to keep my hands from shaking, and sometimes the paint runs out on the brush tip while I'm highlighting and it ruins everything.

>>49320752
GW's black primer isn't a true primer, it's just black paint. Krylon matte black primer will work wonders, just make sure it says primer. Primer has a bit of grit in it that enables it to really stick to the surface of whatever you're painting.
If your hands are shaking, try bracing them between your body and the table, rest your elbows on the table, or just adopt a comfortable posture that will keep yourself steady. Paint in short bursts until muscle memory develops.
Keep your brush moist, not sopping wet, and paint small sections at a time, reloading your brush frequently and that should mitigate the paint running out. Don't load your brush once and try to paint every detail all at the same time, especially with a dry brush.

> i don't want to give GW $20 for a can of primer
New to the hobby and you're already learned a valuable lesson

>>49320945
Alright, thanks for all that. I'm about to head to bed, but I'll keep those things in mind.

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An attempt at highlighting the coat was done, some clean up's happened, though is there a right way to paint commisars?

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Just started painting my 3d printed reinhardt. Just working on layering the metal. Did the face to get that out of the way. His head is ridiculously tiny

>>49321340
Mini looks great. You plan on using him for a game or just a showpiece?

>>49321424
Just a showpiece. Or I might throw him down in a game of 40k as lysander for shits and giggles.

>>49321340
How did you get a 3D printed mini that doesn't have jagged, visible print layers? Did you have to give it some kind of chemical wash to smooth it out?

>>49321499
Nope, I'ts a beautiful new material from shapeways called high definition acrylate. It's made for miniatures. I got him made for 30ish bucks.
http://www.shapeways.com/materials/high-definition-acrylate
3d printing has surely come a long ways

>>49318566
if your glue / paint is drying, GRAB ANOTHER MINI AND GET TO WORK!
lazy-ass fatguys...

>>49313580
Go with micro Art scenic bases, I use them for my chaos demons

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Wip I'm having trouble with my basing. I was thinking something like a salt flats style base for my storm troopers. I definitely over killed the dry brushing on this one, but ant recommendations or better ideas? I was thinking something deserty or grasslandy.

>>49318447
He looks fine, he just needs to be finished. What warband is this?

>>49315779

Brush on some 96% alcohol, that should melt the varnish enough to let it settle smooth. Don't let it pool though.

>>49320581

Clean up the insides of your edge highlights by mixing some medium/varnish with the basecoat blue and going over the insides where it shouldn't be.

>>49322905
>wasting perfectly good alcohol on minis instead of drinking it
you are hopeless, people

>>49319850
>that shade of yellow
How, anon? Not the hazard stripes, but the armor bits.

>>49322905
Sure it won't melt the paint as well?

>>49323239

It will flake off the paint if you use a lot. Just lightly brush a little bit on and don't let it pool anywhere.

How would you guys go about highlighting the gold Aquila on the Emperor's Children contemptor? I considered Runefang, as usual, but it would look pretty bad to have such a large amount of silver on the golden chest piece of a dreadnought. Any ideas are welcome.

>>49323369

I usually mix a little gold in my silver highlight, to create a sort of white gold. I only use silver for the most extreme ends of the edges and tips of the wings.

>>49323369
EC?
have it glow with a rainbow of neon lights

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does anyone have a simple tutorial for smoke/flames? I'm not happy with the washes mixture I did with pic related

>>49323718
Kind of cheating, but I generally when spraying the basecoat do white from the top and then black from the bottom.
Every color from there is drybrushed on and it keeps the grainy/gritty look I expect from smoke.

>>49323718

That's because fire is almost entirely white and yellow while yours is mostly orange and red.

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>>49323948
I was actually thinking of a pic related effect. But yeah it would need more yellow tones in the recesses maybe?

>>49323973

Take a close look at what makes this fire look like fire. The centers that glow are white, surrounded by almost white yellow followed by orange. With fire it's almost impossible to go too bright.

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Basing my ghostkeel.
Figured I'd post here before I shake off the excess in the morning and the grass goes totally flat.

>>49324073
...That's totally Draigo's face in the background.

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>>49307678
Got exactly what you need.

>>49323973
When in doubt, look to Duncan. With the Tip of the Day serie, he churns out little tips everyday.
https://youtu.be/gsQHbfD8eoU

>>49323718
that'd look pretty good if u go over it with matte varnish and smoke pigments

>>49324243

thanks a lot!

>>49324243

Honestly, I love Duncan but fire has to be bright for me.

>>49319226

well that just begs the question why the fuck do you have a wasps nest close to hand?

>>49324959

>this pleb doesn't have a painting wasp nest on hand

Embarrassing

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So this guy is very much in Wip but hes coming along nicely i think, also he is damn fun to paint

What do you guys think so far?

>>49324959
It's actually a yellow jacket nest.

>>49325140
Looks pretty clean so far.
I know this is just a basecoat, but what is your flesh painting technique? I have found myself with a lot of fleshtones to paint and I like seeing how other people do it.

>>49325411
ive went after duncan´s advice from one of his starter box of AoS videos

basicly rekarth flesh -> flayed one flesh -> reikland fleshshade

>>49325539
So is that dark->light->darker shade? I use mostly vallejo

>>49325583
yup pretty much, even though reikland fleshshade has some reddish tinge to it

>>49325583
I'd Invest in some good washes, Vallejos are traditional washes (and as such, work just fine), the ones Games Workshop and Army Painter make are like a cross between a traditional wash and an Ink, they have differently.
They're amazing though, almost like skill in a pot.
I suspect Army Painters Quickshade Ink set is the cheapest way to get started with a bunch of them.

They're simple acrylics for the most part, so they're perfectly good alongside your existing Vallejo paints.

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>>49325951
Repoastan before I get home and do some more. Gotta Flash Gitz yellow those flames up.

Has anyone got experience with Necron Compound? I've got a pot of it and I'm interested to see how it would work on bare engines, as opposed to Necrons themselves.

>>49315475
The boarded windows are a nice touch maybe add some hobo fire out front by the door and some sand bags too

>>49318447
trust me the fact you even bothered painting a hellbrute is commendable

>>49326198
Necron Compound is a metallic Dry paint of GW, so I assume it'll drybrush well, which should mean you can do pretty nice effects on bare metal engine blocks.

So I bought an airbrush, and the thing keeps getting clogged every five minutes. I've ran it through my ultrasonic cleaner and tried hard to get it clean, I've taken it part completely and reassembled after cleaning everything but each time it's the same story, works perfectly for five minutes then the paint stops coming out, even with the container full.

Anyone experienced with these things that have any idea what could be going on?

>>49327338
Is your needle pulling back properly?
Are any of the seals, either around the nozzle or between the trigger and the cup damaged?
How is the nozzle itself doing? Any damage to the delicate steel tip?
When clogged, does air still flow when you pull back the trigger, and does that cause bubbles in your paint?

>>49327425
It's pulling back as it should and nothing is damaged.

Air is flowing through when it's clogged, but I have seen some bubbles in the paint, could my paint be too thick maybe? I've got it about the same thickness as milk, about 50/50 paint/thinner

>>49327656
What size needle / nozzle are you using?

Well, the bubbles in your paint might be because air can get to the paint (the air still coming out is going through a bypass, which is normal), but the paint doesn't flow from the cup to the nozzle. So it's getting stuck somewhere along the way. So I'd start looking in that area for whatever is causing your clogging issue. Somewhere between the cup and the nozzle.

And the consistency of milk sounds about right, so that should flow through just fine.
What pressure are you using?

A question, I got a tank or two (forgeworld) and normal plastic gw tracked superglues to them, but they aint spaced correctly so there is a obvious gap, with it snap of in the freezer or am I risking the whole model doing that?

>>49327817
It should at least weaken the bonds enough to get them loose.
The resin and plastic should both be fine with the cold.
Just make sure you put it all in a bag or something, as anything glued to the model may come loose.

>>49327795
0,3mm

It's a really cheap airbrush I got off a friend to try if it's something I want to invest further in.

Any tips for cleaning the connection between the pot and the tip? I can't disassemble that far, so I'd need to get something in there.

Using 20psi

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Anyone have guides for different ways of painting ork skin?

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>>49328100
>Base in Waaagh Flesh
>Wash with Biel-tan Geen
>Highlight with Warboss Green
>Highlight on the highest raised areas with Skarsnik Green

That will result in skin similar to the pic you posted

>>49328067
try increasing your pressure to about 30 PSI.
20 is low for acrylic paints (they're a little sticky), if you're using something like Alclad MEK paints then 15-20 is pretty normal, but you need more for acrylic paints.
25-30 PSI is probably better for your airbrushing.

>>49328275
I'll try it man, thanks for the help.

Managed to get a small pipecleaner like thing and I'm cleaning the connection to the tip with alcohol now, hopefully that'll help.

>>49328456
Looks like it's the actual screw in tip covering the end of the needle that's clogged, no idea how to clean this but at least I've isolated the problem.

>>49328665
Nuke it in your sonic cleaner, if that doesn't help, try adding something like Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner (to the nozzle tip, not your sonic cleaner), let it soak in it a little while.
That should have enough "bite" to get shit loose, and it won't eat your seals like Acetone would.

>>49328962
Drenching it in some methylated spirits overnight, then I'll try and nuke the hell out of it and hopefully I'll be painting after that.

>>49329002

Or just increase the pressure to 200 psi and shoot the neighbor's cat.

>>49329002
check your seals after the methanol bath, the alcohol can dry them out. Rinse and clean with plenty of water.

>>49329040
it's an airbrush not an airgun.

>>49329071
That's a good tip, I'm usually lazy as shit getting the alcohol out when I strip models and such.

>>49329109
No problem, I hope you have trouble free spraying in your immediate future Anon.

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>open new pot of primer
>immediately knock it over

>>49328100
I did twelve orks with 4 different base colors (waagh, caliban, castellan, zandri dust) and three different shades (nuln, devlan mud, gryphon sepia) and ended up with each ork looking slightly different.

Albeit pretty dark.

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Hi all, finished my first harlequin bike. Thoughts on the colours and composition? If I've made a mistake please point it out too, usually I can't see them very easily.

>>49329450
That is one bad-ass looking bike and murder-clowns Anon. Looks great.

You may want to clean up the rear seat (under the standing Harlequin) a little bit, as well as the engine pod beneath that.
That doesn't make it look bad though, but my eye just fell on it.

>>49329450
Middle guys legs are thin your paints tier.
Highlight the seat
Otherwise good job, looks nice

>>49328100
>spray whole ork brown (to make it easier)
>basecoat with Avaland Sunset - 2-3 thin coat to set up that yellow
>glaze whole skin with Waywatcher Green
>wash whole skin with Biel-Tan Green
and you have already shaded and highlighted skin. If you fancy some crispier highlights, take any bright green and mix it with any bone colour 1:1.

How much would someone charge to commission a Thundertusk? Someone quoted me $75 and I don't know if that's high or low

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>>49329272
I can't not do this with brand new pots of black wash. Especially since gw made them taller and more likely to get caught on my finger.

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>>49329552
>>49329872
Fixed the highlights on the seat, and working on fixing those legs now.
3 more of these bikes and a voidweaver to go, then I can get back to painting things that actually have bases

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>>49328100
>Base waaagh flesh
>Drybrush warboss green
>Drybrush skarsnik green
>Wash with holy agrax

>>49328100

Duncan just did a daily tip on how to do orc skin bud. It was posted earlier in this thread.

>>49330101
>Gee bill, why does your mom let you have TWO power klaws?

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Alright, so I've only ever built a basic gundam before.

Am I missing anything to build this kit? I have a sprue cutter(a hand-sized pair of wire cutters), an x-acto knife and fine-grade sandpaper, paints, paint thinner, spray paint(both base and enamel), brushes, and glue.

>>49330220
Looks like you have a pretty complete package Anon.
Happy modelling, the included instructions may be of some use for assembly.

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paintan bloodcrushers and bloodletters!

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>>49330008
Say no more

>>49323518
Thanks, mein friend. I'll give that a shot.
>>49323532
It's Heresy Era, so a little bit before they became ravers.

Do anyone know a bit site that sells Imperial Guard tank traps? Kinda need a good few.

>>49330610
>I cant spell I meant TRACKS!

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Tried turning two of my wulfens into Norse werewolves/bears for Blood Bowl. Thoughts?

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I posted the other day about trying out OSL for the first time. Here is the finished Malifaux crew that came from that. I still feel that the fire could use some touch ups, and I was definitely a bit heavy handed with my OSL in places, but I think I'm getting better. This is all done by hand with no airbrush, starting with the Death Marshalls and ending with the Witchling Stalkers, which I think turned out best.

These were done in under a week for a tournament, but now I'd like to revisit them and do the necessary touchups. Crit welcome of course.

>>49330610
Same pls.

Trying to make vanilla IG tauroxes, don't like the SOB tracks they come with standard.
(Yes, they're halftracks)

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>>49330656
Shit, uploaded the wrong size, mb.

>>49330610
>>49330687
I can't find any specifically for IG, but you may be able to use regular model tank tracks, provided you have the dimensions for the tracks that you need.

>>49321545
bro, it is made of the same stuff that super glue is. that is amazing!

>>49330220
You might need more paints than that to get good results. Another finer brush too.

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Working on a mimic right now, can't decide if I like the trim or not. Should I make it brighter? More yellow-er?

>>49330673
Your witchling stalkers remind me of Dr.Zoidberg.

>>49330051

These are gorgeous, anon. Finding this inspirational

Do you guys that play warhammer make your models first then build list based on them? Or vise versa?

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>>49332530
the steps i take towards building an army are as follows

>Become interested in collecting them because of pictures/story on /tg/
>Play around in Battlescribe with different lists for a few days
>Buy and assemble these units
>Let them sit in a pile unpainted after losing interest and starting a different army
>eventually sell them on ebay

repeat every few months

>>49306852
For something like this with a lot of flesh, do you end up using black or white primer?

>>49330220
looks good just take your time and have fun. you might find that acrylics are more enjoyable though, i sure did.

>>49330372
thats a funny looking 5 dollar bill

>>49329272
>using paint pots like a caveman instead of dropper bottles.

>>49332721
Not that guy, but I personally use white. Colors over white tend to look more saturated than over black.

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>>49330220
this anon here:

I feel like I made a grievous mistake not painting my pieces before building them. Nonetheless, I'm having fun with this, and I've only sliced my thumb open once with my knife.

still, one learns from mistakes, and I'm not intending to play with these anyway.

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>>49323146
>that shade of yellow
>How, anon? Not the hazard stripes, but the armor bits.

OK, so we're just talking about the greaves, feet, gauntlet, and face:

1). Black undercoat for whole model
2). Thin coat of White Scar over da yella bitz
3). Averland Sunset
4). Wash with Seraphim Sepia
5). Clean up with Averland Sunset again
6). Highlight with Ushabti Bone

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getting closer to finishing this guy, not sure what to do with the hair though, if I do it black then it'll blend in too much with the clothes but I can't think of what other colours might work.

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>>49330220
>Am I missing anything to build this kit?

Well...

>I have a sprue cutter (a hand-sized pair of wire cutters)

Those look almost exactly like mine. I think you will find, as I have, that the really nimble cutter like GW sells can more easily get into the tight spaces on their sprues. That being said, there are plenty of other companies besides GW/Citadel that sell the exact same thing, but for less money. You will probably do well with the sprue cutter you have, though.

>an x-acto knife

That yellow fing? I think you would benefit from a pencil-shaped X-acto knife with an easily-replaced (and cheap!) scalpel-like blade.

>fine-grade sandpaper

Excellent choice. You will also undoubtedly over the years come to appreciate multiple sets of needle files. You can get them fairly cheap if you shop in the right places. Also, I say multiple sets because sawing on plastic inevitably fills the teeth of the file with melted plastic and ruins them... but that's OK, because you bought them for cheap, right?

>paints, paint thinner

If you're used to painting plastic robot or car models, then you may be (seems obvious that you *are*) familiar with enamel paints. Lissen ta >>49332748, though. You will get better results at 28mm scale with water-soluble acrylic paints like the kind made by Citadel, Privateer Press, and Vallejo. Having to use a solvent to thin your paints and clean your brushes when yer done is gonna get old really quick.

>spray paint

Remember to watch the humidity and temperature outside, keep yer rattle-can *inside*, and shake it very well so the glackett can mix the paint up nice and good fer the spray-coat.

>brushes

You've been to Michael's! Hope you got a good discount! You will find that the nicer, more expensive brushes work a whole lot better than the cheap Craftsmart ones that come in the bags. They both have their uses, though!

>glue.

Good choice. I have that exact same kind on my desk (not pictured).

>>49329272
youre first problem anon, is youre brush priming like a fucking savage

>>49333925
Yeah, I'm noticing that it's difficult to get into some of the pieces(especially the arms and weapons)

the paints I got were the ones recommended at michael's. If I need to get paints again, I'll try acrylics. If I need more brushes, I'll get more of the single expensive brushes.

I already noticed that I'm going to need at least some white for skulls and some flesh colours.

thanks for all the tips, though! If and when I get better supplies, I'll look into some more fine cutting tools. The xacto knife and bolt-cutters are doing the job for now, though I have cut too deep a couple times.

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Did a couple of test models for an army, intend on finishing the rest of the squad soon. Any advice? Bases aren't done yet. I've tried to be sort of subtle with the highlighting and deliberately avoided edge highlights. What citadel/valejo/whatever paint would be a good color for edge highlights with a dark red?

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>>49334266
>What citadel/valejo/whatever paint would be a good color for edge highlights with a dark red?

So, my base paint is named after my chapter's Chief Librarian, but I actually start with Evil Sunz Scarlet and go up from there. Maybe for you, since your red will be noticeably darker than mine, that you might go up to Evil Sunz or maybe even as far as Wild Rider Red.

Probably don't need to go all the way up to Troll Slayer Orange, though, unless yer lookin' fer a glorious death.

>>49334704
Thanks for the info, I'll order some. Would you recommend Wild Rider Red for edges?

>>49322051

You got me, anon.
NO EXCUSES! THE EMPEROR EXPECTS!

>>49330372

Get a little eye dropper for those kinds of spills.

>>49330999

Mimics are supposed to have long spindly arms and legs and a mean ass drop kick

>>49335148
>i've only ever seen a mimic in dark souls

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>>49316086
Popsickle sticks sticks are harder, probably more difficult to keep a wooden texture. But all of that is balsa wood.

>>49326265
Thank you, I might still. Have added some sandbags.

Little further along, got to be a decent enough weather for priming.

>>49334266
Dude are you running bloody magpies?

>>49335212
Yup.

>>49335235
kys

>>49335235
Cool stuff.

>>49335325
Thanks

>>49335324
No :^)

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>>49321195
>not a Prefectus-ordained black coat with red trim

As for actual criticism, looks good to my eye. The paint on the sword looks a little grainy, but that's easily passable.

anybody know if cadian lasgun arms will fit into skaven clanrats? I need some non-melee mutants.

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>>49313686
In my experience, the only way they look good is with this method:

> Base Leadbelcher
> FUCKHUEG amounts of Reikland Flesh Shade
> Weather with your choice of Rust from forgeworld.(My favorite is Red Rust)

>>49334037
>giving the jews at GW $17 for a can of spray primer
>not mixing your own for your own airbrush

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Sorry for the shit pic, but I think it's fine for my question. What colors should I make the cracks in the ground? I was thinking a kind of ambient lighting of some sort, something I can do with my airbrush.

>>49336373
Also how should I got about making this a full on terrain piece? I was thinking on adding some rocks to the more muddy areas and some stairs on the center of the sides, like a big clockwork plaza.

>>49315475
whats the white stuff you used for the ground texture?

>>49334266

Eyes could use a little work but they look pretty sweet, anon. Keep it up.

>>49335175

but... how else are they going to bear hug you into their mouth?

>>49328100
>base waaagh flesh
>layer warboss green
>THEN wash biel-tan green
>highlight skarsnik green
>Then fine highlight ushabti bone

The base, layer, then wash gives me a nice greeny green than a dark green. And youz want da greeniest right?

>>49330999
Looking good so far. I could see brightening the edging on the chest.

I just painted that mini a few weeks ago. I went with purple organic parts, bronze for the coins inside, and silver trim on the chest.

>>49336641
Just a mix of drywall spackle, liquidnails, water, and ground scatter(Flock, ballast/sand/tiny stones/mulched sprues)

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>>49305773
>replace the top

Just cover it with a cleaner-looking piece of PC.

>vehicles without pieces on

It wouldn't have busted both your hind legs to spray them black before assembly, dude.

Both problems - and the crooked ML - stemmed from you half-assing things by rushing. You've seen how this results in anguish down the road, so try to be more relaxed in your approach and remember that there is such a thing as "tack welding" on larger projects.

Keep us posted.

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Finished the Maghariba Guard a couple nights ago

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>>49337488
And here's WIP for the Twilight Order Knight Pinup

Anyone use Army Painter's Quickshade? I've got a mess of Orks I need to paint and fuck doing it the right way, I wanna take shortcuts.

>>49337753
Haven't used it, but seen it get enough shit from /wip/ that I'd think twice about using it.

>>49337753
basecoat everything completely
go outside and set up some newspaper on the ground/surrounding area, and make sure you wear either an apron, or clothes you dont care about, and put on some heavy rubber gloves
take miniatures by the base, dip them into the pot, take them out, and shake the excess dip off of them
it'll do the job, but it doesnt look great
my suggestion is you production line your orks in squads of 5-10, it'll look a lot better

>>49337753
I used it plenty of times, but i brush it on just like a regular wash instead of dipping the mini in.

You have to keep in mind that the stuff is a mixture between wash and varnish (satin) so your minis will be somewhat shiny afterwards.
That works for some kind of minis, but others require a coat of matte varnish afterwards.

>>49337488
Oh yes

>>49338071
I seem to recall a tutorial on dakkadakka forums about using furniture stain/varnish on minis to save a few dollars instead of quickshade. Never tried it, but I imagine it's roughly the same stuff.

>trying to layer celestra grey on a drop pod primed with Vallejo light grey spray
please end my life, for it is not worth living at this point
this primer is the perfect colour but I swear to Christ it repels paint like a cross repels vampires

>>49313580

This is gorgeous

>>49330673

You made the right call making the glow brighter

>>49336373

>sees a dick
EVERY TIME

This may be a bit off topic, so please excuse me, but roughly 2 weeks ago there was a thread in which an Anon lamented that there was vaporware map creator/editor that never got released.
In response, I suggested I could probably create something like it and I'm maybe a day or two away from a functional prototype (with a rudimentary interface and some features like lighting missing).

Since it's not exactly Painting/Sculpting/Converting, I'm guessing it wouldn't fit into /wip/, but since it is a /tg/ related work in progress thing, I thought I'd ask if people here think I should post the prototype here, or just create a separate thread when it comes to that.

Thoughts?

>>49338965
>Painting/Sculpting/Converting
i don't see requirement for those only in OP
you're free to post whatever you're working on if it fits /tg/, i'd say

>>49338987
Well, it's in the thread title, but alright, I think I'll post it here then, thanks.

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Waiting on some base inserts. Happy with how he turned out. Still need to work on his bottle but i'm kinda lost on how to make it better.

>>49339290

Look up how to paint vials, maybe that'll inspire you

>>49325140
i just got that model earlier today from the White Dwarf magazine I purchased. His left arm was a bitch to glue together. That chain and ball especially...

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There wasn't enough trees in my jungle, so I made some logs. Got carried away with the foliage, but I'm happy with them. The third one from the top isn't quite done.

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Also a closeup of my spooky scary samurai, who aren't done either.

>>49339567
>>49339580
Very nice, are that aquarium plants or did you use something else?

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>>49339641
They're decorative plastic plants from flower shops, dollar stores and thrift shops. Aquarium plants tend to be too bright and thin for my taste. Also these are way cheaper.

>>49339672
Thanks. Looks really nice what you have built there.

>>49339672
I also used dyed lichen as cheap, effective clump foliage. You can get bags of that stuff for very little money after Christmas, at least around here.

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>>49339680
Thanks. Hunting for useful junk is part of the fun of building terrain. These jungle idols are souvenirs, I found the big one at a garage sale and the small one on eBay.

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too much blood on the jetbike?

>>49340525

The problem is not the amount but the pattern. Jetbikes move at very high speeds but your pattern looks like a daemon prince grabbed it and bashed some poor loyalist fools into a paste.

>>49330372
At least it will bring out the detail in your table.

>>49340525

Needs more entrails, I'd say.

>>49340552
>>49340525

To clarify, for example on the blade vanes it's better to make a single bloody neck-width impact zone with long streaks of blood to indicate the feeling of speed

>>49340569
hehe good idea <(o.O<)

>>49340552
any advise on how to make it look more realistic? maybe longer thin lines of blood?

>>49340625
thanks I'm going to try that :D

>>49340644
>>49340632

Here's blood at low speed, higher speeds would be even more stretched out

http://www.shutterstock.com/video/clip-11889230-stock-footage-high-speed-camera-shot-of-an-blood-element-splatter-isolated-on-a-white-background-can-be-pre.html

>>49340632
Longer lines that go in the direction the bike is going would help. Also, the blood is a bit too evenly distributed along the edges. I feel like the front of the bike and the blades would get bloodier than the sides.

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Finally finished my seers, Honestly not my best since It's been so long since since I was painting all the time, and I prefer armour rather than cloth.

Finally can move onto my Wraithlords now.
Farseer was made with the bonesinger model and had a head and weapon swap from the Plastic Farseer kit, Warlock is an old one with a modern shuriken pistol.
I need to repaint my Corsair Princess's sword to match the new scheme. If I ever go back to playing I'll use her as either a Princess or Autarch. Only put her in the photo since she was the last "character" model I painted before going on a 4-5 year break.

>>49340525
This has nothing to do with your paintjob, but why are the blades in the back aimed backwards? In case you want to back into someone for some reason? Can jetbikes even go backwards?

>>49340670
thanks :D

>>49340678
I guess you're right. Having so much blood on the sides makes no real sense.

>>49340710

The grey looks good, the highlights on the orange are a bit too subtle for my taste. All in all solid paint jobs.

>>49340726
I don't know what GW was thinking either ...
Painting the model I wondered about that too.

>>49340710
As the other Anon already pointed out, the orange looks a bit flat in some places.

I'm not an expert for Eldar, is there a reason you painted one of their power blades blue and the others green? The blue one looks way better.

>>49340726

In the fluff, they are extremely maneuverable so I recon they'd speed up and make a sharp turn to slam into their target with the spikes

>>49340710
Could use some bolder highlights and darker shading. Both the gray and orange looks pretty flat. Could be unflattering lighting.

>>49340816
That actually does seem like the kind of unnecessarily difficult and elaborate way to kill someone that the Dark Eldar would love.

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>>49340746
I'll work on the orange then, Thanks
>>49340807
Only reason was the Princess was painted years ago and now I don't have any turquoise at the moment so I ended up going green/jade instead. Think I did a better job on my wraithblades since they have a better edge for highlighting.

>>49340854
A matter of taste. I didn't critique your painting on the green blades, i just like the blue color more.

Overall you pulled of a simple yet great looking color scheme. Same on the bases, nothing spectacular, but still looking good. Well done.

>>49340632
Think of rain on a windshield while driving

>>49340842

Well, the jet-bikers spend most of their time racing in the first place so I recon just plain old hitting the breaks will catch some slow newbie biker.

How much is 36 inch movement in actual distance anyway?

>>49330372
you're only supposed to use a little bit on your brush, using that much shade will really clog up the details on the table

>>49333642
Green and blue are possible, because they're all cool colors. A teal could be interesting! What color are his eyes?

The shadow on his left thigh is pretty dark - a glaze would help blend it into the highlight you have. Everything else looks great.

>>49337488
Fantastic edge highlights!

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>>49313580
>>49313686
The gw bases are very easy to paint. I don't think I spent more than 5 minutes total painting time per base. The only problem is having to hide all that great detail underneath a big fat model.
1/2

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>>49341567
Plus they suit the DW theme well

Anyone have any experience with glow effects? Specifically, eyes. How would I go about achieving glowing eyes? Should I not bother?

>>49342930

It's basically the opposite of highlighting. You start with a white or almost white center and glaze your color around that in increasingly darker tones, creating a transition from very bright to moderately bright at the edges.

>>49343096
That's a lava or glowing crystal type effect. Anon asked for glowing eyes, which isn't the same kind of effect.

>>49329133
>>49329071
Airbrush working perfectly now, the methanol plus some poking with a tiny needle solved the clog, doing some fire dragons for testing.

Thanks for the help!

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>>49342930
>How would I go about achieving glowing eyes?

From the painting guide links in the OP, get yourself the CMON Ultimate Painting Guide. There's a step-by-step tutorial on pages 73-77.

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why does my paint keep building up thicc and then tearing? i thin my paints a lot

>>49343586
are you not waiting enough time between coats? That's what it sounds like.

>>49343252
That is great to hear Anon, lets hope it plays nice from now on.

>>49343127

The principle is exactly the same though. Bright center, less bright surrounding area and your brain will do the rest. For lazy glowing eyes on something like zombies or another type of horde unit I use white base, colored wash, dot of white in the center but it just doesn't look as good.

>>49343586

Paints need time to dry and degas, but really pictures or what paints you're using + what you're thinning with would help us analyze the problem much faster.

>>49343648
yeah, that's it i think

>>49344022
no pics but i'm using citadel paints air and normal, thinning normal non-air paints with lahmian medium

>>49344043

I don't have any experience with the air paints but I'm guessing that's part of it considering everyone has been using non-air paints of similar quality for decades now without this issue.

>>49336373
Bump

>>49330220
Stop using those shitty wire cutters and get a pair that are flush ground. You're just making work for yourself.

>>49336235
What are you mixing primer from?

>>49337753
I use it for scenery sometimes because it's tough and cheap. Really not great for miniatures and with the huge range of good washes I don't see the point.

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One more to finish them off.

>>49345445

The beards could really use some darker shading though. I see they're highlighted but the the difference is so small it's hard to see.

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sergeant and guardsmen.

i think i will stick to this color scheme for my autistic oc donut steel regiment.

>>49345702

Don't forget to clean up the rims of the glasses

>>49345741
Oh damn! i noticed this now.

should i just clean them or try a red drybrush for some glowing effects?

>>49345817

Honestly, they aren't bright enough for a glow effect right now so you'd have to fix that first. Since the whole model has a camo vibe going on I'd just clean them.

>>49345581
I'll try a darker wash to add some depth. It seems to currently just be blending the highlight away. Or maybe a more extreme highlight?

>>49346593
I always do an extra layer of highlight after the wash for this exact reason.

>>49346593

I think if you use a thinned black wash to darken the shadows, then wipe off any wash off the raised areas you should get enough contrast.

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New thread:

>>49346974
>>49346974
>>49346974

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What can you do to spice things up for Fenrisian Wolves?

I plan on giving one an eye patch in honor of MGS5. But what else can I do?