WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

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Primed, silvered, and ready for painting. Middle finger fell off after he flipped Horus the bird but was repaired shortly after pic was taken.

As of now he's going to be Legio Mortis with a more tan color in place of white, also some more white in general.

>>49119682
you shame me with your work ethic, looking well on its way, good job anon

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I feel the woof overtaking me.
It is a good pain.
making flesh hounds of khorne counts as, waiting on bases
ded thread

So I recently picked up an airbrush, but as I've been practicing I've noticed it feels a bit unwieldy when trying to stay within the lines, I'm trying it out on some infinity models and I'm wondering if it might be easier for me just to use the airbrush to put on a base coat, but that kind of feels like a waste of 200$.
Anyone know of any guides for using an airbrush on smaller models? Or should I keep painting by hand

>>49121119
you mask the parts you don't want to paint.
From what you wrote it sounds like you were trying to use an airbrush instead of a normal brush to paint an entire miniatures.
That's not really how it's supposed to work.
You put in the basecoats, then do some highlights or gradients and use a brush to finish the details.
An airbrush is a great time saver, especially for painting armies and large vehicles, if you bought one to paint the dozen or so skirmish models you need for infinity, I'm afraid you might have chosen a tool better suited to a different kind of painting.
Non the less an airbrush is gonna be useful. Check buypainted on youtube, or some other channel focused on airbrushing. You'll be able to see the workflow and maybe it will help you figure out how to approach painting your minis.

>>49121597
Yah I picked up the airbrush because I have a huge backlog of imperial guard, I was just wondering if there was a solid way to get all the colours on a model as a base then work up from there, from what I've gathered that's not exactly how it works. So you would recommend a buypained style where I put on one colour and do the highlights and shading, then do the rest with a brush.

>>49121745
I think you have to have a solid plan before you start. Airbrush painting is mainly logistics.

For example leaving off the shoulderpads of a space marine army with differently colored insets would be a way to save a lot of time on a SM army. Paint the bodies one color and the pads another, just go back and paint the trims by hand and add finishing touches to the miniatures.

On an IG army I'd say you can save a lot of time painting with airbrush by painting the tanks alone.
For infantry you could paint the fatigues on the models quickly and even apply washes via airbrush. Then just go back and pick out the flesh parts and you could have a quick and dirty army ready pretty quickly.
Pretty sure for a hoard army like IG you'll be thankful you bought it.

Some people like to use blutack or something like that for a temporary mask. For example if you leave the arms of the troopers you can cover the arms with blutack or a sheet of paper while you airbrush the shoulderpads.

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>>49120928
>ded thread

Hey, I had to go in to the office today.

Pic related is for you (>>49119370), OP.

How do you spray prime models with a lot of relatively hidden bits? I've got a box of Skitarii I'm assembling, and I have spray primer. Only two of the ten are put together now, so I have no problem with priming -> attaching the legs for the rest, but I've got two that already have the legs attached, and I'm not sure how to get enough in the inner cloak without drowning out the detail. Haven't spray primed before.

Advice?

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I've had one of the 2nd Edition Beasts of Nurgle forever. Took the tentacles off and made a mold of the body so I could have as many as I'd like.

Good enough for me.

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>>49122863
I have almost all my guys fully build before I spray prime, and I do it pic related.

It helps if you have a really thin painting table; you can spray from under the table and shoot spray from below up at them.

Helpful for hitting areas under dickcapes and robes.

You can also just ignore those areas for the most part if you're worried about detail loss.

Generally, I find that if I can't easily hit an area with spray primer, it's also not gonna be subject to the same wear-and-tear that more easily accessible parts will be.

You're probably safe barely even priming it at all since nothing is gonna be able to hit the area to knock the paint off.

As long as you can get the paint on there in the first place you're in the clear.

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And so I begin work on slowly cleaning up my work area after the glue dries on the organizer I think I'm going to paint it because why wouldn't I

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>>49124125
>skittle
pff

Thanks, man. I've actually got an area I can do that fairly well at, so that'll help. Just a matter of not getting paint on the "table" in question. (The little dudes are ready to prime! The one on the left had a bit of weird fit with the arm's wrist, but for my first and second real mini assembled, not too bad.)

>>49124190
that doesn't seem too stable anon

>>49124330
Like any cardboard constructed object internal support is vital...also it is wip... I kind of need to dry to complete construction

>>49124676
Also add more triangular supports

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So I tried to do edge highlighting, and realized I hate brushes for being precise, so I started doing edge highlights with a mechanical pencil.

Pic somewhat related, didnt do pencil highlights, but working on a warlord of my own

>>49124125
Thats an idiotic way of doing it if i have seen one. Find a lath or something thats like a meter long and flat. Cover it in scotch tape if its porous. Poster putty your minis on it, and then you can prime them with a can while rotate the lath with one hand and spray it with the other. Its never a good idea to keep an aerosol can in a not 90 degree angle.

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Trying to convert my 25mm resin guys to 32mm bases.

I don't think I'll be able to rebase Dante and Seth who only have a single foot resting on their base.

Do you guys think just doing something like pic related will work?
They are Chapter Masters - having them on a pedestal might be a cool way of differentiating them from the rest of my army.

>>49124774
You should prime in gold or light brown

>>49124834
Id greenstuff and put cool shit on it, but it could work. Tbh though I'd rather take the pain and try rebasing, not seeing how 1 foot stops you

>>49124849
Curious as to why? I did white and then a leadbelcher base coat, then shade down from there. Would that be to improve the gold color or what?

>>49124834
You can buy adapters that convert 25mm to 32mm for just this reason.

Dropped half of a cataphractii combi Bolter, been looking for it an hour already

Fuck this.

I'll just head to bed and strip search the studio tomorrow.

>>49124908
For that much surface area it needs to be as flat as can be, meaning as little progression as possible. That's why alot of people use airbrushes especially for armour

>>49125057
Set a flashlight on the ground. Sometimes it helps pick out dropped bits.

>>49124834
if you cut the tab off and drill a hole to pin it you shouldn't have a problem.

>>49125285
Already did so, but the room's full of clutter and I'm dead tired.

Let's hope I find it in the morning.

>>49125348
Okay, now roll around the floor naked. Sweaty bare skin is the best way to collect fallen bits.

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Im paintin my storm troopers in a British commando scheme. Here they be, nice and wip.

But I am man now and it is time to choos. Zandri Dust (like armor), Steel legion Drab (like fatigues), or Castellan Green (like berets) for the armour of my newly magnetized taurox?

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Here's their friend, Mr. Beeps the Jeep. He's waiting on a shipment of blood and skulls brand wheels to be converted into his full mrap style glory.

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>>49125419
You could always go with pink if you really wanna push the British commando theme.

Question for the recasters out there:

I'm looking to make some copies of a few resin bases I bought off ebay, because while they're nice I'll be fucked if I pay £20 for shipping from the UK overseas again, especially for a £16 order. So I'm looking to recast these fuckers, and got the casting pdf that another anon posted a while back. Which kind of mold should I be looking at for this, latex or silicone? The silicone seems like it would be sturdier and last a bit longer, but they are just resin bases with a minimal amount of huge bits that stick up above the base, so latex might be cheaper overall. Advice?

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Ha, time for Malifaux.

>>49125635
lookin good
one thing is thorn(?), dude on the right doesnt look like he's angry, more like he's in the middle of a particularly difficult deadlift the way his face and especially eyebrows are painted

>>49125674
I can't unsee that now, I think he looks more depressed rather than anything else, it was completely unintentional.

>>49125552
Silicone has a much better casting life which you'll need. I suggest casting the ground of whatever you're using and do the extra bits separately like skulls etc

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>>49125451

>>49125485
Ehh, I'm not too pressed with it. I'd rather look like a unified force than delve too heavily into historical elements. ..as fun as pink jeeps might be.

>>49125821
Y'aright, I get ya.

I'd go with the Zandri Dust for the most part then to keep their armor and their armor all one color.

For secondaries, I'd use the Castellan Green for exhaust/engine pipes and other big details, and then the Steel Legion Drab for the door insets and all the less-armored-but-still-part-of-the-armor parts.

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>>49125905
Sounds good - I'll have Mr. Beeps lookin' fresh for his kill team debut.

>>49125800
[WIP SPEAK]

>>49126098
interesting

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>>49125552
It depends how many you need.

Latex is much cheaper, but with resin it's unlikely to last very long because it gets attacked by oils and solvents, even only very tiny amounts will fuck over the mould eventually. There's also a tiny amount of shrinkage involved - which eventually sets in.

>tl:dr if you need lots of casts and want to reuse the mould long-term then make a silicone mould, if you need only a few casts in the short-term then make a latex mould.

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Painting a Kingdom Death Twilight Knight, thoughts?

>>49121597
>drop $200 on tool with no idea what it actually does

>>49128307
>fuck up the reply #

was meant to be
>>49121119

>>49128288
Don't paint on sprue, just gives yourself more work in the end.

>>49119682

This is going to be an amazing centerpiece!

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Started up my several year old Dreadfleet after me and a friend had an awesome game a few days ago.
Started with the two main ships, Bloody Reaver and Sigmar´s Wraith, these are the bases, and I have started to lay down the base colors on the ships.

>>49124834

What this anon said >>49125306.
Its modeling 101, you cut of the tab, drill a fine hole in the foot, and stick a rod in it. match that to the base and glue tight, then simply bend the rod and lock the model in place when glue is dry.

>>49124834
There are adapters.
Or you could glue the small base on top of the larger one and make it look like a hill with texture paint and/or putty/green stuff.
Since they are characters, a slightly higher base wouldn't look to odd.

>>49128307
>>49128319

Its not surprising. I have spoken to people who don't want to join the hobby because the heavy starting cost, because they actually believes you need an airbrush to do just about anything.

And as you say, judging by anons comment, he has bought a expensive tool, not really sure on what it does. Perhaps he has listened a bit to much to the "the airbrush is a magical all in one tool" anons on the board. Regardless, its an eye opener when you realize you don't pour in the magical paint and do one big stroke and its all done (like the classical chess board scene in Santa's workshop).

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Hate the centaur-looking profile of the defiler, thought it might make a good spider/crab thing. Absolutely love the shape now

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>>49128793
Soz not sure how to rotate the puctures on my phone

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>>49128811
Better shot of the carapace + stinger/exhaust, came out looking pretty tyranidy which is fine with me. Very insectile (arachnile?)

>>49128845
still need to work some more trim on to the carapace and work out a place for a heavy bolter/lascannon that looks natural and doesnt look like eyes, cause as soon as it looks like it has eyes the battle cannon suddenly looks like a NOOT NOOT mouth or one of those shooty mouth guys from zelda, idk the name

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I painted up the Slaughterpriest that came with the new White Dwarf today. Does /tg/ like?

I cannot for the life of me get the light balance right in my pictures. It all looks good on my camera then I get it onto my PC and it sucks ass.

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Can't figure out what to do with this spear tip, I wanted a soft blue blend but it just doesn't work on large areas. Same with the helmet, it's not what I'm looking for.

The magenta and dusty blue look great together and the model doesn't do them justice. I think an army painted like this will look great on the table. I'm going to airbrush it on the guardians where as I hand blended the farseer.

>>49128895
It's looking really good. I think a little bit more of an edge highlight might bring out some more of the metal parts but that's being super pedantic. Skin looks a bit dirty (and not in a good way) to me, but I'm really bad at skin.

Is the base finished? It looks a bit barren but I can imagine that working. I've never been a fan of the vegetation that you've used on the base, it's always felt a bit too big for the scale.

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>>49128964
Yeah the base is finished. I want it to be barren. It's meant to be like a desert sort of environment. The plants are deliberately chunky because they're sort of meant to look like weird green-dried plants.

Idk if you've played the Mad Max video game, but the start bit where you're in the bottom of a dried ocean...it's sort of meant to be like that. Here's another photo for judgement.

I agree on the skin, I hammed it up bad with a final drybrush. I usually drybrush such things because my care factor is low but this guy started to be one of my better models and I regret doing it that way now.

And I agree on the edge highlight - I need to get the orange recommended. The problem is, then I'd have to edge highlight my whole Khorne army and I don't love them that much!

This pic shows my attempt at blending.

Just wanted to say, bless you all in these threads for posting your good shit. These threads inspire me to get off my lazy ass and keep doing my shit paint jobs on my ork force. Haven't painted in almost a year. Feelin like it now.
Area I moved to has a Warhammer store that opened last month. Are they any good for buying GW minis, or is it better to find a mom n pop shop?

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Just washed this guy next is high lights. This is my first painted character for age of sigmar, is it coming along well?

I have been thinning my paints, honestly

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tfw your minis are increasingly getting brighter
just fuck my consistency up fampire

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>>49129993

>>49129993
How did you highlight that black? What colour is that? Stegadon scale green or something?

>>49130016
dark reaper + thunderhawk blue

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Repostan this from some days ago.

>>49129979
Did you use a gloss wash?

>>49129993

good stuff, crispanon

>>49130077
Yes yes you are great at this, but we've already seen and saved these. Would you kindly paint some other miniature?

>>49130180
I used Vallejo burnt umber. It hasn't dried yet but I don't think it comes out glossy.

>>49130097
Actually i just guessed the name but it's Vallejo something or other brownish wash equivalent to the popular citadel brownish wash

>>49129993
How did you highlight your black?

>Some kid finger paints a space marine
9001 replies

>Decent painter posts a slow progress of WIPs showing high level blending and interesting basing
0 replies

>>49130785
see >>49130023

>>49130785
Here
>>49130023

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Hey there, small update here. Just in the middle of finishing up these guys, lots of details to go: All the leather, tires, wear & tear, cables, brass & iron, eyes & cables, bones & horns... but at least i can see the the light at end of the tunnel.

>>49129131
I'd give those bits of cork a wash with agrax earthshade or strong tone, just to make them look more realistic. The blending on his hand is nicely done, and while your speed painting is allright, i think that the picture doesn't do you any favours.

>>49128913
Already looks pretty good so far. But i second the plan to airbrush your guardians. The army would just take forever to finish if you should you blend all of your guys like this.

>>49129979
It looks quite okay for a tabletop standard, but the flash makes it hard to judge. Look into the how-to-take-a-picture-guide, it should be somewhere around here, you won't regret it.

>>49129993
>>49130077
Both of you produce outstanding paintjobs that show off the very best that /WIP/ has to offer. It's always inspiring to see work like this. Thank you.

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>>49131376
Also some progress on my happy little lord.

>>49125348
Just spent another hour looking for it, nothing.

Anybody know a ghetto way to fix half a combi bolter?

>>49131501
strap another gun to it to turn it into a combi-weapon?

>>49123114
love those guys

>>49125674
>>49125707
I thought it looked like he was gingerly walking over something sharp with his bare feet there. Probably unintentional by the sculptor, but I guess it would take an accident to make a Malifaux humanoid look at all graceful or even naturalistic

>>49131544
Well, combi bolters are basically two bolters strapped together, thing is, I've only got Tigrus and Godwin bolters, idk which would look less crappy...

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Just got a lightbox, trying it out along with some GIMP white balance correction. Thoughts on the model and the picture?

>>49131667
I was personally more thinking of something like a melta or plasmagun.

heyo, needing a bit of painting help, i got myself a raging heroes kickstarter models (dark elf sorceress) which i would like to paint like a witch to use in pathfinder (green skin witch)

using gw paints what is the best way to get a light green tone for skin? and what would be the best complementing colours for the cape/robe and hair?

>>49131830

Vibrant or pale green? Red always goes well with green or you can use a secondary color with red in it, like purple or orange.

>>49131987

i think vibrant would stick out more

as for colour scheme: green skin, red cloak/robe(bright or dark?) and dark purple hair. Would that work?

>>49132078

If you're going to do a red cloak on vibrant green skin and bright purple hair, darker is better or it will look like a mess of colors.

>>49132119
hmmm,

for skin (keeping in mind that as i play aos/40k i use gw paints) waagh flesh, caliban green wash, and then a lighte rgreen? (skarsnik maybe?)

for cloak i could do khorne red first, wash, layer mephiston red, wash again and then highlight wild rider red?

and for hair, i have no clue as i rarely paint purple.

>>49132220

Skarsnik is very pale, you'll want something more along the lines of Moot Green/Warpstone glow.

>>49131730
The weapon looks a bit bland. I'd add more detail to the hilt to make it a bit less of a solid yellow.

>>49132233

looking at warboss and warpstone, maybe i should swap em around ? warpstone first then warboss? warp is way darker.

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Just finishing the base coats on my Black Templar. I wanted to create a squad full of complete zealots.

I want to freehand some basic art on his tabard. I need ideas. I'm thinking a sword vertically through a ork skull but I'm open to ideas.

>>49132779

You reaaaaally need to clean up first

>>49131730
hard to know what to suggest, is it done or WIP?
its a nice clean job of a basecoat, but needs more shading. washes + blends or edge highlighting

eg the skirt thing needs shading, and i'd be tempted to do something more interesting with the...umm.. tuning fork bit of his head (behind the eyes), like a colour blend.

So I'm building a land speeder for space marines and I'm trying the best way to do subassemblies for it. Any Ideas?

>>49133484
It's been washed multiple times and the metal's been highlighted, the rest of it needs some more highlights I agree. I don't want to try and blend anything on his tuning fork for fear of fucking up the fleshy bits all over it.

The skirt does need work, at the moment it's just a dark grey basecoat with a black wash, a blue wash and then another black wash over it.

>>49132327
I agree on the weapon, I just didn't want to add any more gold to the model. I might try and work in a silver or repaint the whole thing a starry blue.

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>>49119370
RIP AND FUCKING TEAR!

In all seriousness though, this was a fun build.

>>49131667
I give up, can't find the damn thing.

First I'll try to copy one with green stuff, barring that, I'll try to make a ghetto version with either a Godwin, a Tigrus or a storm bolter.

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>>49134173

DYNAMITE!

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>>49130285
I'm now working on these but I'm not happy with the ghostly parts, wanted it darker, may start all over.

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>>49134255
Go for the stripping bro. Producing mediocre work is just the worst. Take what you need, learn from your mistakes and git gud.

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Wip green skinned witch
Cloak needs wash plus highlights and boots, gauntlets accessories and staff needs painting, thinking bronze. What do you all think if you can make anything from potato quality

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>>49130014
>>49129993
What did you do for these bases?

I want to shamelessly steal it for my orks

>>49134173
The chainsaw arm looks weird in that possition

>>49135186
With that arm, I see it as a happy excited little doom guy running to the next place he can RIP AND TEAR at with his new toys.

>>49132779
I would have set the side arms of the cross over the Black Templar eyes instead of beneath.

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Witch is Done!

>>49136003

right... just noticed face is too shiny, fixing that now, applying another layer of warboss green, then wash biel tan (without shinyness and then done!)

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There's no way he'll be finished in time for the game tomorrow, but at least he will count as "painted".

>>49132779

A bit heavy on the edge there. Next time, thin your paints and use the edge of the brush tip. I'm talking precision work. Same with the following layer and so on. You just need to touch it.

>>49134255
Dunno what your vision was, but I'd say it looks pretty good.
In any case I like it.

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My first Skitarii squad (and my first squad ever)'s just about done.

Featuring: Ranger Alpha, one real arc rifle, one conversion arc rifle (first conversion ever), and two regular riflemen.

Tomorrow once they've cured, gonna try and clean up the converted arc rifle, hopefully not break it, and paint 'em.

Did I do okay?

>>49139108
You got some moldlines to clean and a few sprue nubs still clinging on, but that's par for the course for newbies.

My only real advice is you should go a little easier on the glue - less is more when it comes to this stuff.

It's better to have to hold the parts together for half a minute to get them to stick because you used too little glue than it is to use huge drops of glue on a model and get it done it in a few seconds.

>>49139234
Yeah, I figured that out around the point where I started converting the second arc rifle. I think the second squad is gonna look a lot nicer. I'll file down a few more of the nubs before I paint it.

How do you guys feel about battle damage/dirt/grit on tanks. Currently painting a chimera for my catachans and I'm unsure if I want to attempt to paint a mud effect on the treads and the bottom area of the tank

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>>49139263
Toenail clippers work perfectly to remove all the lil sprue nubs if you want to take the cheap and easy way out.

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How's my first dorf?

>>49139326
Well, other than sideways and unshaded, I mean

>>49139311
Good to know, actually. I've been working with limited tools; clippers, an oversized utility knife, and a needle file, plus glue. So cleaning up the nubs was a little difficult. I'll give those a shot

>>49139268
Like most things, it can look really good if done well.

I'd check out some of Vallejo's Weathering Effects range.

They can creat some pretty good effects on the cheap side and they have a pretty large selection

>http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/language_changed/family/34

>>49139326
Pretty clean painting there m80.

I'd say give him a wash, do a few highlights here and there, and base him and you're good to go.

>>49139326
Paint the little rune on his axe, go get some kitty litter/sand/tiny rocks and put it on his base and paint it. Do you have another shade of brown you can use? Change his glove color or the handle's color it melds together. I like his little helmet it's pretty cute

>>49139440
I noticed the glove and handle problem, too. I'll try to fix it when I get home from work tonight. I've got sand, but some kitty litter sounds like a good idea

>>49139398
Hot damn that crushed gass looks nice. I guess I won't be finishing this Chimera today after all

>>49136003
Mind relaying name of that mini? Great pose and hair.

>FLGS only has big ass jugs of agrax for $7.50 a pop
fuck off GW, there's no way I'll use all that in a lifetime, just let me spend $4 on a little pot

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>>49139386
>I've been working with limited tools; clippers, an oversized utility knife, and a needle file, plus glue.

Yer on the right track! Get yourself a smaller, more nimble hobby knife with cheap blades you can swap out frequently after they inevitably dull or break. A pin vise is a necessity for drilling gun barrels and inserting pins between parts that don't like to stay glued together; just don't get the cool looking one with collettes on both ends like I did. The mold line remover is optional, but it's nice to have a tool that won't extract its pound of flesh if you slip or drop it.

>>49140000
>big ass jugs of agrax
>no way I'll use all that in a lifetime

Just do what everybody else who frequents our thread does and lament at the waste when you knock it over and spill half of it.

>>49140243
yeah I've already spilled my nuln oil, but I still have some left and it was one of the small pots too

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Working on bases for my dudes.

I got the paint colors for the top down for the most part, now I'm just experimenting with colors for the rim of the base.

I did a few up in a few different colors here, what do you guys think?
I'm trying for a jungle look moreso than the Spring meadow.

I like the Castellan Green with the Agrax Wash the best so far, but I'm going to try Steel Legion Drab and Dryad Bark too before I commit to a style.

>>49128608

I never bothered with Dreadfleet, but that water looks really nice Anon.

>>49140592
Castellan and Agrax matches best.

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Watched Lord Duncan's video on painting camo for these bad boys. Think I overdid it on the drybrushing but it looks okay so far. Going to put some crushed grass/mud on the treads. Should I go through and paint all the rivets silver/boltgun metal or leave them like they are?

>>49140829

Leave them as they are. Aside from them being already fixed there before the time the tank would have been painted, not doing them will save your sanity and avoid crushing your will to ever paint again.

>>49138285
I want them to look more or less like the official studio paintjob.

>>49140912
Duncan already commanded me to hit each rivet with a blob of agrax earthshade so my sanity is long gone

>>49124190
>game color and model color on the same shelf
You make me sick.

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>>49140592
I like the Rhinox best.
Or black.
I like the rims of the bases to be a contrast color in order to 'frame' the mini if that makes sense.

Anyway here is some inspiration for the jungle parts of your base.

Btw nice choice of Chapter. Flesh Tearers are one of my favorite chapters.

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>>49125485

At least glue in a reservior so the model can constantly leak oil all over the place. Otherwise, what's the point of historical accuracy?

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>>49128435
>Don't paint on sprue,

Prime/ basecoat on sprue.
Partially assemble/ base/ paint.
Assemble/ finish.

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>>49131131

Poorfag OC player struggles mightily for days mastering the basics.
/tg/ cheers him on to final victory.

Non-player spends a month airbrushing a model to look like the one in the tute.
No one cares.

This is as it should be, anon.
Welcome to /tg/ newfriend.

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>>49121119
What pressure are you running at?

I use a Porter Cable compressed with a built in regulator. It's minimum pressure is a bit under 20 psi. It works fine for painting vehicles, large pattern camo and base coating figures but for really fine lines like some camo patterns I plug an auxiliary low pressure regulator into the compressor's regulator and run at around 10 psi and use very low flow from the brush. I assume you have a dual action brush, use very low pressure from both the compressor and very low flow at the brush

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>>49134255

If you want it darker, that means you add - not subtract. If you're thinking of stripping anyway, there's no downside to trying another layer of colour to get the result you like.

Hey duders, I just picked up the new Kill-team kit today and Im having a hard time sticking helmets from other kits, and the chest pieces for that matter, any one else had any nifty ideas to put other helmets on them?

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Did most of my Twilight Knight, still a few things to fix but what do you guys think?

>>49140243
that looks like a proper comfy hobby knife
wish my pin vise drill had the same sort of handle

>>49142541
>wish my pin vise drill had the same sort of handle

I would actually advise *against* getting the one that I did that has collettes on both ends. It takes about 5 seconds for that other end to start digging into your hand and really make you wish you'd both one with a proper knob or handle opposite a bit that can be switched out.

>>49141123
That was a sizinng test paints will be segregated no worry

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Salamanders rhino, still alot of touching up to do, and painting more color into flames, and putting on treads, but I like the greens and using a pencil to highlight has worked way better than a brush.

>>49139108 here. Primed 'em up. Do I need to wait the full 24 hours for it to "fully dry" before I start painting, or am I probably good around the 12 hour mark? I don't want to super-rush them, but it'd be a lost day of work, and I doubt there'll be much difference between 12 and 24 for total dryness if they're dry enough to handle in one hour.

>>49143236
I'm sorry but no, that highlighting needs a lot of work. What I do is instead of usig the tip i use the broad side of the brush and that only clips the edge. I dont really understand how you use a pencil for highlighting, do you dip it in paint?

>>49143236
That green highlight would look much better after some simple green, as in dunking that shit for 12 hours and striping the THICC paint.

Git gud at painting, scrub.

>>49142507
nice subtle colours and clean lines, looks good Anon.

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bones battleguard golem aka eberron warforged. haven't varnished it yet, thinking spray matte. using it for an upcoming game.

cheap craft paints from michaels and army painter inks. mini number 50 or so. slowly working through the bones from the first kickstarter.

>>49144143
Thanks anon, painting KD minis is way too much fun.

>>49142507
i really like how the hair came out. well done.

>>49144032
Harsh faggot

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>>49143236

>pencil > brush

wtf are you using?

>>49143236
strip it, start over

>transition from WHFB to Infinity
>want to up my painting game
>spend hundreds of dollars on new supplies and an airbrush kit
>spend hours researching proper modeling and painting techniques
>practice on a few test models, then strip and retry
>finally finish a model after two months of this
>take a nice high res pic for WIP
>looks like complete ass

welp

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>>49143236
Sell it on eBay so I can save it.

>>49145163

i know that feel.
plus the added confusion of DSLR pic = shit.
phone pic = surprisingly okay.

still havent worked that one out.

>>49145268

I fixed up some of the issues I noticed with the pictures, then took a picture from farther away. It's a bit more presentable now, but I need to give it a nice matte varnish spray tomorrow before I'm comfortable showing it off.

>>49143236
Unlike many other harsher critiques, I will say you've got creativity Anon.

You may wish to thin your paints next time, and while using a pencil may be found as more effective, careful brushwork with fine tips of smaller brushes may achieve a closer effect.

Have you tried watching any videos by our Lord and Saviour Duncan (PBUH)? I know it seems silly to reference even now in his time of ascension, but he always offers great technique, advice, and tips!

>>49144268
I'll tell you what, I personally love Warforged, and that's a rather inspirational paintjob you've done. Good work Anon!

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WIPs of some of my DKOK army im slowly building, the commissar death rider and tank are chinese knockoffs, tank was in a good condition and had to do very little repairing, still trying to figure out the color scheme for it. For the commissar i had to waste bucketfuls of greenstuff but oh well, rather spend 15 dollars for a knockoff than 70 dollars for an authentic one.

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>>49145360
and a finished ghazghkull, basing is WIP, ideas what to add to it?

>>49145430
flesh looks a little glossy

>>49145554
yeah i guess its the poor light and even shittier camera, need to build a lightbox and invest in a proper camera, only used vallejo paints on the flesh, hasnt been coated.

>>49143236
Do you suffer from some kind of disease? Just so we'll know /wip/ isn't making fun of someone with a muscle problem.

>>49134255

For good ghost effect you'll want to inverse the colors, so bright shadows and dark highlights

>>49134455

I like the hair. Loads of details on that staff and other accessories so I would honestly use a lot more colors on that. Personally I'd do the paneling on the armor in bone with a glaze of broken white and I'd probably base the metallic looking parts a light brown and then go over it with a warm gold color.

I can't really tell what the haft of the staff looks like, can you take a picture of her back?

>>49145430
Looking great, I do like way you use the yellow there!! Maybe you could make it look like he just stepped on a grot or make it look like he just smashed through a barricade or something.

>>49143236

Fire is red, the sky is blue and the sun is a yellow ball with a smile is the vibe I'm getting here.

>>49145233
Do you have a pic of the finished rhino after you re-painted it?

>>49146462
Sadly yes, i have arthritis in my hand, it was why I tried using pencils because good brushwork without a brace was impossible. I figure my issue was more on that I was painting over an older color scheme.

>>49147431
The base color isn't bad but the main problem people are making fun of you for is the edge highlighting. I dont have a medical problem but I have shaky hands, when I edge highlight I do it very very slowly. It's a grueling pace but in the end it works for me.

Maybe you can come up with a ghetto sling or some kind of contraption? The colors aren't bad it's the execution. honestly anon I'm rooting for you. Good Luck.

>>49147431

More like, you are using WAY too much paint on your brush and it isn't thinned properly. I have days where I can't stop shaking due to neurological issues but even then it doesn't make my paints thick. You should be able to at least use the belly of the brush at a 45 degree angle to apply edge highlights on the big plates and messes can be cleaned up after with the basecoat color.

>>49147755
Again, I think it may have been more that I was painting over another scheme, I suppose I'll strip and just try to redo without the extra layers.

>>49147805

A previous paintjob doesn't make your new edge highlights half a centimeter wide.

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>>49145233
>>49147247

>>49147837
I understand that, I was referring to the first part of your post. Why bother working on the highlights if I am just going to remove it all anyways?

>>49145233
Is the best way to strip tanks like this to literally just dump them in a bucket of dettol? Or is there an easier way? I have a defiler and a land ranger that my 12 year old self painted like a drunken blind man, and it would be nice to recover them

>>49146483
you mean fire-like? I can't find any examples of ghosts painted like that.

>>49146483
I have never seen or heard of that, got any pics?

I feel like I'm missing something but I'm new to painting. Is there a paint on sealer? I found Testors Dullcoat but it's only in spray on format, not paintbrush applicable.

>>49148677
>I feel like I'm missing something but I'm new to painting. Is there a paint on sealer? I found Testors Dullcoat but it's only in spray on format, not paintbrush applicable.

Vallejo varnishes. They're technically meant for airbrushing, but you could apply those with a brush. Available in several different formulations, in Matte, Satin and Gloss.

>>49148677
Revell has brush on varnish as well as Vallejo and other scale modeler companies. 60ml of Vallejo should cost around 4€.

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what is the easiest way to switch colors when air brushing? Going to be trying it for the first time today / tomorrow and need help with it

pic related is what im airbrushing

>>49148984
I'm not fond of Sigmarines, but damn that's lookin good.

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>>49148955
Spray until no color left, fill in water, spray till its through.. then fill in cleaner/alcohol/white spirit if you think its needed. Repeat with water/cleaner mixes until whats coming out is clean.

Having a bowl like pic related really helps but it can be done without it too.

>>49148984
Haven't you posed pics of a Sigmarine painted that way before?

>>49149092
Yes, I loved the colors, so I am painting another one

>>49149115
I knew i have seen this before. Looks great, just as the first one.

>>49147897
how do you glue the top hatch on at that angle? There are grooves to align it!

>>49149082
i own one of those. Was just wondering if i had missed some key critical step in the process but it sounds straight forward. Is water the best choice or is the cleaner / alcohol better?

>>49149207
Well, water is free, everything else costs money.. so i would mainly use water.
It takes longer ofc.
Using a mix of 80-20 won't hurt though.

Once you are finished i recommend using cleaner to finally clean your airbrush.

Got my Farseer and Warlock green stuff'd up and ready to be primed today.

Also did some work on my Warp spider exarch Wraithlord, cannibilised one of my warp hunter kits I never got round to build for the shadow weaver barrels and put them on a missile launcher base. Gonna have them mounted on it's shoulders and have the blades of 2 wraithswords on either arm.

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>>49148430
>>49148586

Google isn't really helping right now but it's essentially the same as lava effects but more subtle and with colors of your choosing. It's a bit difficult to learn, since it requires loads of glazing and subtle transitions but if you can pull it off, it looks like you have a glowing ghost.

>>49149690
>>49149690
That file name...

>>49149263
Posts pics you fag

so I got a few tanks but the primer came out a-bit gritty
I think it will just end up more noticeable
anyway to save them or should I strip and start again ?

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>>49149822

Tomorrow child. It's cloudy as fuck and getting dark. Here have a pic of my Daemon prince instead.

>>49149982

Is he behind the average hillary voter? Nice streaks on the sword, it feels very silent hill levels of creepy.

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Working on my dirty dirty thanatr, hopefully this doesnt come out upside down. I still need to highlight and weather the gunmetal areas and his mortar but otherwise im pretty happy with how its turning out

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>>49150169

And on his base, also hopefully not upside down

>>49149690
But even the lava goes from dark to light instead of light to dark. All the ghosts seem to follow dark to light too, I want to believe but I'm not sure if it's true.

>>49150196

All glow effects go from bright to dark, this is just applying glow effects to the entire mini.

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what are some good tutorials to help me to paint eyes?

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>>49150570
These are the only two I know of, depending on what you're going for:
https://www.reapermini.com/TheCraft/12
http://www.destroyerminis.com/paintingeyes/

>>49150570

For what scale?

>>49150671
28mm heroic scale (40k / WM/H)

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>I really wish i had a better camera
Some anon asked me how big Vargheists were, just wondered what people think of my painting

Any ideas how to take better pics with just an iPhone?

>>49151159
you're halfway there already, mostly diffusing the incoming light so it comes from around the model.
You already provided a flat background to force the camera to focus on the models.
Build a light-box and you'll be golden for the most part.

If your camera app has a macro-mode, use it, but the Depth of Field of a phone camera won't be very good for that sort of thing.

>>49151159
The sun must hit a white surface behind the miniature so that the light gets reflected and illuminates the miniature in a more homogeneous way

>>49151238
>>49151274
The light box i can do, the amount of light is pretty much shit tier
Outdoor photos it'll be then

Thanks

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A pile of clay of greenstuff later I pooped this out. happy enough but feels like it's missing something

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>have a game planned in a month
>have to paint three tanks and a handful of infantry for it
>instead of working on them I bought some classic bretonnians, deathwatch and am fiddling around with my overkill set

>>49143236
strip it down. start again.

>>49148141
dissisemble and strip

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Here's my first attempt at anything other than speed painting skaven. Shitty cell phone pic because that's all I have and the blurriness makes the model look better anyway.

>>49152106
>Here's my first attempt at anything other than speed painting skaven.
Looks like it was a success. Nice work.

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Chaos lord wip. Thoughts? Not sure what color to do the cape or sword.

>>49152106

Lovely, what infinity faction is it from/

>>49152986
it looks like it has weird hairs glued to it around the waist. are those brush hairs that got stuck or cat hairs?

>>49153131

Haqqislam, it's one of the newer Naffatun.

>>49153133
i think it was just a stray cat hair i don't see it on the model right now.

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why has /WIP/ never mentioned Wrath of Kings? These minis are more affordable than both Warmahordes and GW stuff but maintain a high level of quality with minimal mold lines and still super cool art design. In my opinion they trump Privateer Press for sure. I picked up a box of these guys to paint and they're already a breeze to put together. Should be a fun project.

>>49149207
>>49149082
>>49148955
I have a bunch of https://www.amazon.com/Squeeze-Condiment-Open-Tip-Polyethylene-Durable/dp/B009D9Z7TS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472941799&sr=8-2

I fill them up with water.

Typically when I want to switch the first thing I do is turn the airbrush on it's side and spray water into the well to get most of what's in the well out. Do it over a Tupperware container or something.

Then I'll spray out some water then I may pull out the needle and wipe that off before I switch paints. It really depends on what paint you're using some some types a paint cling to the needle more than others.

Also I hope you have a decent Airbrush because if I bought a cheap one (Like a Masters Series) you are gonna have a bad time.

Use Paints made for airbrushing or use Airbrush flow improver to thin paints. For metallics only use Airbrush Rated Metallic, never Flow Improved thinned Metallics.

>>49154465
Right.....and lets say I did buy a masters series? Am I fucked even if i just want to do base coating with it

>>49154546
Play with the consistency you thin it to, you can probably get it to behave well enough for airbrushing by finding a consistency that works.
If it's a metallic... Use the widest possible needle you have.
I've found that using an 0.4mm needle you can spray some pretty rough shit on your models, and you can always go to 0.6 if needed.
Most airbrush metallics are designed for 0.2 or 0.15mm needles.

>>49154661
what bout washes and inks? can i spray those or do they need to be thinned?

>>49154367
Post pics

>>49154719
No "pigment" as such (they're inks), the particles in those are tiny and won't bother your airbrush, spray away.

>>49146593
I just spit beer

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I painted and clear-coated my Skittle Rangers. First squad I've ever done box-to-painted. I've got a couple other angles/better lighting as well, but I'm just gonna post the one.

Lessons I've learned already from this:
>Never trust GW to include enough bits
>Corollary: Never trust GW bits to convert nicely (hence the second-from-left's mashed together arc rifle)
>Runelord Brass doesn't even come close to Warplock Bronze, and Warplock Bronze is the greatest paint GW offers
>Ceramite White is a bitch
>Paint the inside of the cloaks BEFORE attaching the legs (and paint the legs while you're at it)
>Faces suck.

Any advice/commentary besides that?

>>49154982
Oh, and for what it's worth, my cell camera is garbage. The paint doesn't look nearly as thick IRL.

Just finished up a half-black dragon figure for one of the members in my D&D group.
I'm still getting the hang of basing beyond just basic flocking.

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>>49155026
Of course I forgot the pic. Here it is

>>49155077
Nice. What mini is that?

>>49145360
Looks great anon
Keep up the good work

>>49155094
Thanks.
The mini is Na'Kaat Female 1/2 Dragon from the Reaper Dark Haven Legends line.
https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/na'kaat/latest/03403#detail/03403_w_1

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Is this kind of brush ok to use for thinned base paints on large areas like pauldrons? Was using it to brush in lines similar to how I do for work with housepaint but maybe that's not ok for johnnies

>>49156116
You can use that kind of brush.
Flat brushes are usually more suited to drybrushing or something like that.
If you paint you have to be careful. Especially with a low quality brush (which synthetics are) you might have so much friction between your bristles that you introduce airbubbles into the paint.
Especially if you are trying to work fast you'll basically get a tiny bit of foam in your paint.

Generally speaking I'd reserve that kind of stuff for scenery or vehicles. Large things.

If you want to speed up painting the pauldrons on your marines, just leave them off and use a spraypaint in the appropriate color to paint them. It's the fastest way to paint them.

>>49152106
Looks breddy nice. Wish I could do mine as well.

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finished my first ever figure

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>>49157460

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>>49157483
also this

>>49157531
Those look really good for starting. Can we get a side view of the ripper base?

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>>49157599
da emprahs finest

>>49157645
I like it! I'd just make sure to clean up those mold lines on the figure (especially the legs) before priming them.

>>49157729
yeah i got the marines from the stores old figures, so whoever owned it before me didnt get rid of their lines.
the white one is going to get turned into bio-titan food when i eventually get it

>>49139353
Thanks>>49154982
Practice practice.

Also, an easy pale unhealthy skin tone is rakarth and agrax. Instantly looks good.

>>49157960
Practice practice indeed. I've still got the other half of the box, plus another one coming in soon, so I've got material at least.

Good to know; I wasn't entirely sure how to go about skin, so I just used what I had on hand. It turned out okay IMO, but could've been better.

>>49154367

Looks like they have a good mini to dollar ratio for those starter boxes. Might pick up the Nasier one just to have some more dudes.

Is the game dead?

Out of curiosity, since >>49154982 shows my weird-bad arc rifle conversion in the background: what's the best way to convert arc rifles? I have a pile of Skitarii infantry bits and some Victoria Miniatures resin lasguns, but that's about it right now; likely picking up the Skitarii Start Collecting box, so I'll have a few more parts then.

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Just have weathering powder and fixing up the legion symbols to go and the guys are done

>>49159340
They look great, man. How'd you do the armor itself? I need to do a similar effect on a vehicle soon.

>>49159384
The chipping? Just get a piece of sponge (like you used to get in the back of blister packs), dab it in some paint and lightly dab it on the model in places you expect to see wear.

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>Tfw poison oak itching while i try to paint.

>>49159482
Makes sense. The shade of off-white itself, is it just a regular paint?

>>49159616

Yeah, although I've got a few different layers going on there. It's mostly Vallejo, a base of Leather Brown primer with Bone White and Dead White airbrushed over it. Then it's a wash of Gryphonne Sepia with Bone White and Off White drybrushed over the top.

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>>49145360
I like the death rider, mainly the brown/red fur/skin color.

May I ask what you needed all the greenstuff for? I was thinking of buying a chinacast death rider formation by Christmas and want to know what I'm in for.

>>49145430
Add nothing, I think this is perfect.

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>>49119370

I'm doing some traitor Imperial Guard in a Tzeentch themed army and I need some suggestions. I've got a full battleforce of Cadians and a full battleforce of Catachans so I'm looking for ideas for the rank and file troopers. Obviously not everybody's gonna be able to have feathers and crazy mutations out the wazoo, that would be a fucking ridiculous amount of conversion and... well, if everybody's special, then no one is.

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>>49150169
>>49150190

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Flames of war US Para engineer platoon, coming along nicely. Still have to do webbing, touch ups and washes/highlights, but they are getting there.

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>>49140661

Nether did I. We tried scenario 1 when I bought the game, and it has stood down the cellar for years until now, simply because other miniature wargames took to much time.
But I have to say, now that I have tried it out, it is absurdly fun! We did 4 straight scenarios yesterday and all in all Id give this game 8/10 for pure fun factor.

Heres a photo of the last scenario, the bottom one was the hilarious amount of damage cards my opponents dwarven warship was hauling before getting destroyed! I just had to get it on picture.

>>49147247
Not repainted it yet. It's only been sprayed with a base coat.

>>49148141
I put it in a tupperwear tub of dot4 brake fluid.
Use caution as despite it being mostly pine oil, it's pretty toxic. Gloves required or you will chemically burn your skin.

I know dettol is safer, but I find that turning paint to goo is really annoying during the cleanup process and usually means I need to use white spirit on my sink to clean that after.

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>>49159320
I actually love you Arc Rifle conversion m8. It's just the Arc Pistol attached to the end of a Galvanic Rifle, right?
It's simple but effective.

What about doing something similar with the Radium Carbine and the Arc Pistol.

Pic related for a quick mock-up in paint, not sure if the sizes will work irl however.

>>>49161355
That's actually exactly what I did. I made the cuts too uneven and used way too much glue, is the problem.

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>>49161403
Meant to attach pic

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>>49161403
>>49161414
Shit, maybe attach one to the Galvanic Rifle then?

Shit Paint mock-up once more.

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>>49161505
Slightly better edit.

>>49154982

Untidy, desu
Inconsistent coats of color, ragged edges

>>49161546
Yeah, I can probably make that work in the future. I'll have to wait for my next box to come in.

>>49161566
Ragged edges, yeah. I got to the point where I was going back and forth with the edges enough I just left them how they are. Meant to just have flat white edges and the robe itself be red. But I've been working with a fairly large brush, so I did... okay, I guess, with that in mind. Are they good? No, not really. Are they better than I expected? Absolutely. Did I learn enough that the next time around probably won't look as bad? Yep.

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Fuck it, these guys are finished.

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Why is the Slaughter Priest so big?

If he was a bit more buff I'd use him as an ogre.

>>49161979
Not a clue, he also towers over the other AoS Khorne guys in the marketing images, so I assume he's blessed or something? He's literally the size of an Ogre, just not as rotund.

>>49161979
Its simple: Larger mini = higher price. Have you seen its regular pricetag?

>>49162068
Yeah AU$50 for one dude is insane.

I wonder if its not sold at that price and GW had a bunch to get rid of so they stuck it on the magazine.

>>49161932
They look lovely.

>>49161932
Simple, yet efficient conversion for the scythes. I love it.

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>>49161979
>If he was a bit more buff I'd use him as an ogre.
Better yet, make him a Primach.

Haven't painted in about ten years, what's the best way to prime? I've got some citadel spray from years ago which is still in good order.

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What's your favourite video by our dark lord?

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>>49149263
>>49149822

Here you go, Need to fill in some more gaps and cover the base in some sand then I can prime it

Had to repose the left leg to make it appear moving. Had 2 warp hunter kits left over from years ago and thankfully they come with a fire prism weapons sprue (Only part needed for the warp hunter was the back door) so took the shadow weavers of that.
Had a spare wraithsword from a Wraithseer which I'll be painting up after I've finished my 2 seers which will be in the post below..

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>>49163185 following on

Will be painting these 2 up before my Wraithlords, need to clean up the primer then I can get to work on Yme-Loc goodness.

Bought an old warlock of ebay and replaced his pistol with a modern one, looked like he had a fucking laspistol before.

Farseer is made with the Bonesinger model as a base (I won it ages ago back when GW stores were fun) and the head and spear come from the plastic farseer.

>>49162571
I like Krautscientist's versions of Angron, his whole force has a great gladiatorial theme.

>>49161932
post higher res m9
they look good

>>49162861
Left-handed paintbrush.

Short, informative, and easy to watch now and then for review.

>>49160127

justaburp

>go to game store
>ask dude about varnish
>"here's citadel purity seal, it's all you need"
>"is doing a layer of gloss followed by a layer of matte a thing"
>"no"
>buy the thing
>internet
>"purity seal ruined all of my models use this thing or this other thing"
>"actually purity seal works under the right conditions"

Did I just throw money in the trash, or is this salvageable?

>>49165375
purity seal, like most spray varnishes are quite sensitive to humidity and heat.
If the weather is not too hot or humid it should work fine, just remember to shake the can like mad before use.

>>49165375
>salvageable

It is. By using matte varnish after it. Its glossy as fuck.

That being said, be extremely careful with the humidity. It is known to create frosting effect if humidity is not right.

I recommend ordering a bottle of matte varnish by vallejo to brush it on after you sprayed your purity seal.

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This is sort of /wip/ adjacent, but for fun I'm working on a small website for cataloging miniatures.

Right now it's pretty basic in terms of functionality, so I thought I'd ask you guys what sort of stuff you'd like to see. I'm already going to add a finished date on there, but I'm open for more fields. I also am going back and forth on whether Status should be an open form field for more flexibility or a dropdown list of preset statuses for easier use and searching.

I'm also up for any other ideas of stuff you guys might like.

>>49165533
Maybe price. So people can brag how much they saved on a nice ebay deal.
manufacturer/where to ge it maybe

>>49165533
>>49165599
this sounds nice.

Maybe add an option for whole squads with how many minis are included.

Has anyone had success with a brown / yellow / black color scheme for nurgle marines?

Have you guys seen this?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2066522358/miniature-holders-and-grips-for-painting-and-sculp

What do you think?

>>49165533
Under "Details", add a field where people can list the paints/whatever they used. So we can avoid a stream of "how'd you get that shade".

>>49166322
Neat idea and all... but I do this already.

A $0.75 dowel rod cut to about 4" lengths, $3 worth of double sided adhesive stickers, and a 2x4 with holes drilled in it. Prime them, stick them in the 2x4 to dry. Come back later, take them out and use the dowel rods as a holder like in that kickstarter. I can do 12 models at a time with it for less than $5.

how do I scratch build bases for jetbikes? I lost mine and I don't want to buy. I have metal rods but I don't know how to make the round base part.

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airbrush anon here, tried to use my airbrush with my purple inks and it didnt work. The air was coming through and the pressure was right but the ink refused to come out. Tried to thin it down and it did the same thing again. Is my brush broken or am i doing something wrong?

Kit related

>>49166470
The metal bar is what makes this ks item so interesting actually.

An empty pot of paint with a dot of blue tac can be used to simply hold a mini as well.

>>49166626
Have you tried any other paint yet?

Does anything come through? Plain water?

>>49165599
>>49166129
>>49166451

These all sound pretty sweet. I'll start working on getting those put in.

I'm not sure when this bitch will be in a functional state, but I'll keep /wip/ posted.

>>49166656
tried cleaner, nothing came out

Does anyone know what size gamesworkshop paints are? I'm looking at picking up a paint rack from hobbyzone.pl and ive no fucking clue what size citadels latest range is. Is it the circumference of the pot that gives the measurement in millimetres? Sorry for being a retard.

>>49166688
>>49166626
Question, you pressed down on the lever right? Then air comes out, did you also pull back the lever while pushing it down?

It's a dual-action brush, pulling back regulates how much paint comes out by pulling back the needle. It's a motion that takes a little getting used to, but you'll pick it up soon enough.

>>49166688

That's really weird, sounds like the feeder itself is clogged or air wouldn't pass through

>>49166626
I think I have the same airbrush, and I was having a similar issue with gold paint. It would only come out in short spurts for some reason, leaving a really awful, inconsistent coverage on my mini. Same with the red paint I tried to use. A real pain in the ass this thing sometimes.

>>49166820
Yes, push down and pull back the level. >>49166822
i think the feeder is clogged but i cant figure out how to get in there to look
>>49166861
It worked yesterday with my blacks and greys. It is a real pain in the ass but i only really use it for base coating so its ok.


If i wanted to trade up to something better what do you all recommend?

>>49166861
>>49166626
... how narrow is the needle / nozzle set in that thing if it clogs that easily...

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Finished my Gideon Tank at last!

>>49166808

Aren't there any pics?

36mm is what you need:

http://www.hobbyzone.pl/en/modular-workshop-system/45-om05b-paints-module-36mm.html

look at the fucking pic Anon. 26 is Vallejo/Dropper bottles and 41 is Tamiya glass jars.

The pics are there for a reason.

>>49166898
.3mm needle

>>49166897
Can you unscrew the feeder cup? If anything is clogged it'll be there. Another question, are you using the top or bottom cup?

As for replacements, that depends on what's available. I personally really like my Evolution 2-in-1 airbrush from Harder & Steenbeck.
It's an expensive brush, but very versatile, you get an 0.2mm and an 0.4mm needle set with it.

>>49166954
Well, 0.3mm should not be clogging from paint easily. That should accept just about anything short of craft-paints.

>>49166956
No you cant. Its molded onto the brush. Top of the cup. I didnt get a bottom

>>49166984

The internals are all steel right? If so, try a little nail polish remover.

Is agrax earthshade and nunl oil the "paints" that I'm going to use the most?

>>49166933

Sorry i was being retarded, just realised that the fucking postage costs more than the product. Fuck that :|

>>49166984
That's really odd, the air goes through that to the nozzle, so if air is coming out, it's passing by your paint when you pull back the needle.

Hold the brush up to your face and watch the needle, does it move back into the nozzle when you pull back the lever on top?

(note: don't blast air into your eyes, dangerous)

>>49167047
You'll use more but the bottles are bigger, so provided you don't spill one, they last awhile.

>>49161290

Nice paintjob, but you slack on the base which really draws down the overall appearance.

Don't get me wrong, full flock base used to be ok.... like 1990, when the trim of the base was also painted green, and models where all chunky and ugly and sold 1 and 1 in metal blisters. These guys deserves something better.

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What do you think, tg?

>>49167249

Looks like a pretty normal keyboard to me