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WIP: painting and sculpting general

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Thread replies: 349
Thread images: 85

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Couldn't find a a WIP thread so here's a new one.
>>
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What is happening to my fulgurite copper.

I transferred it to a dropper bottle, 30 minutes later after giving it a good shaking this is what came out.
>>
>>48357327
Other than undergoing mitosis I mean.
>>
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First attempt at airbrushing, definite wip, but im really happy with how well the citadel air paints perform. The purple was regular paint thinned with water and it really didnt agree with my airbrush. Forgive the images, posting from my phone while working.
>>
>>48357327
Did you tranfer it by adding water/flowaid/medium to help get it all out of the bottle and into the drop?
>>
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>>48357399
>>
>>48357317

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
[YouTube] How to Magnetize a Tyranid Carnifex
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Previous Thread:
>>48327223
>>
>>48357399
I believe you are not to thin those with water when using an airbrush. I believe some sort of flow aid is required instead.
>>
>>48357407
No, just an old brush and wiping the contents into the new bottle.
>>
>>48357452
yeah i need to invest in more cleaner anyway so i plan on ordering some flow improver and some genestealer purple air paint.
>>
This card is really cool
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>>48357529
No, YOU'RE really cool!
Those icicles look daunting yet fun to paint.
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finished my spirit of durthu
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>>48357630
Looks great champ!
Is this your table? Probably the LFGS, but if it is yours, consider changing the leave on the trees to match the season of your Durthu
Also, for your Durthu itself, you can get small autumn leaves to scatter around your base. I think that would look great.
>>
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How would you make this color scheme with the citadel paints? It looks a bit more interesting than the usual Iron Warriors colors.
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>>48357693
thanks!
yeah, it's the table from my lgs
where can I find some basing leaves?
>>
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>tfw you realize the "image quality" option in GIMP doesn't do shit beyond 75 and you made the everything 33% bigger than needed.
Reconfiguring and cropping original scans is hell...
Oh well, at least 40% of the pages are done now. Fucking scanning the book was less of a hassle.
>>
>>48357831
http://www.scenicexpress.com/
http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Scale_1_43__Gauge_O__Foliage.html
https://www.coolminiornot.com/shop/masterclass-scenics-fallen-leaves-fall-mix.html

After just a quick search of "28mm leaves"
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>>48357833
You will see most of my images are 50% (as denoted by "50pct" in all my filenames.
Also, when you export (ctrl+shift+e - press ctrl+w after changing the image quality scale to see the file size that the image will be exported at.
>>
>>48357317
>Shit Tier OP Can't Into Archives for the Links Edition
Praise >>48357431
>>
>>48357908
I am the one that provided the links, but I wouldn't say the only NON lazy tg'er that actually took the minimal amount of effort to at least make the post after no one else bothered for over 6 hours after the old one archived. All you managed to do was complain about something already resolved.
That my friend, is the definition of shit tier shit lord shit posting. Flattery gets you no where. Praise me as you should, but I will still call you out.
>>
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>>48357906
That's a nice tip, thanks!

But I've pinned down img.q. 75 as pretty much the same as the original scans, so all I have to do now is continue cropping the damn pages to make them identical (and remove shitty edges) so the pdf will become a presentable read. :3
>>
>>48357928
I mean, the links aren't REQUIRED to share your WIP images (where are yours?) and people usually ask for that information later regardless of it being in the OP. And it hardly covers everything, so it's hardly REQUIRED. I just copied and pasted it because I knew someone would complain. *But then you complained anyway.*
>>
>>48357956
well, try to resize images (ctrl+i, s) consistently and crop (shift+c) utilizing the "aspect ration" and size dimensions below that to keep things the same.
Learn short cuts too, that speeds things up considerably. I hardly touch the mouse when editing my images to post here.

[AND HOLY FUCK they are pushing the Store Front captchas more than ever - I refuse, I will always refresh that one - something just seems off about it, especially that they push it SO HARD. Sometimes I have to refresh over 3 times to get something different).
>>
>>48357928
>I am the one that provided the links,
and I am sure you did it out of the kindness of your heart and definitely didn't judge the quality of the OP by it.

Anywho how would I make a curved ramp (like from the highway?
I figured I would make a skeleton of some sort and just kind of build up on it with some sort of epoxy.
Any tips on what a good epoxy would be in the US?

First undertaking of a sizeable terrain piece.
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>>48357454
Did you wash the new bottle? Sometimes nee bottles have manufacturing oils in them which may spoil the paint.
>>
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>>48358017
>HOLY FUCK they are pushing the Store Front captchas
I thought it was just me who has been getting them time and time again.
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>>48358046
I did. I also literally SAID why I did it. To curtail people like you. Learn to read. Don't project your own shitty attitude on to other people.
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OP here, sorry for being a shut and not having the proper links or image, just wanted a new thread.

Also, I'm finally making progress on my army and it's making me moist.
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>>48358017
Size is already done, 50% worked pretty well and is readable (fucking originals are 7-12mg lol).

And I mostly throw the 50% pics into the 1170x1700 frame with "snap to canvas edge". Would love for there to even be a shortcut to turn "snap to" on and off, since nudging the pages a few pixles left or right is basically all I do. :(
Is there a keyboard command to "move tool" shit? It's hard not changing the horisontal positioning using a mouse. I've never used GIMP before, pretty much...

>>48357630
Neat af!
>>
>>48358136
M for move
Ctrl+a to select the entire image. Crtl+shift+a deselects. Ctrl+i inverts the selection.
Moving an item, and THEN holding control works for snap to (if I am correct about what you are asking).
Keep in mind that hovering over a tool option will usually show it's shortcut ;)
Feel free to ask more questions, though.
>>
>>48358179
Oh, command shortcuts are no probs. :) It's rather using only keyboard to move stuff with the move tool I'm looking for. Like using the arrow keys or something? Mouse is too fiddly.
>>
Modeling newby needs advice. In X-Wing you can field a TIE Bomber as a TIE Shuttle. In Star Wars canon, TIE shuttles look identical to bombers excepting the bomb chute.

I want to remove the bomb chute so the shuttle looks authentic, but I want it to be re-attachable so I can go back-and-forth between bomber and shuttle. How would I go about doing this?
>>
>>48357729
Don't know if this'll work, but I'd do a base coat of Runelord Brass, drybrush it with Leadbelcher, wash with Agrax, then highlight with Runefang Steel.
Idk I'm not that good, but hopefully this helps.
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>>48358272
When you press M, then select the thing (by clicking it once with the mouse) you should then be able to move the selection with the keyboard.
And of course, ctrl+wheel will zoom in and out so you can see to the pixel where your selection is moving.
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>>48358278
>How would I go about doing this?
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>>48358311
>HO!
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>>48358303
Wuh- Wha- Holy shit!
...I never thought of trying it. Damn if this isn't a real egg-on-muh-face moment!

Thanks! This should speed shit up considerably!
I should have a release finished within two weeks or so. I wanna get it out there because this thing is old enough to drink and doesn't even have a mention on the internets! Which is a shame, it had pretty damn high production values for a 90's indie product.
>>
>>48357928
i don't think you diserved that praise.
>>
>>48358443
Nor do I. It was a joke as if his (your?) praise wasn't poorly veiled as an opportunity to express the opposite for the OP.
I don't see your point either, but I don't think you know your point either.
The fact remains that you are still harping on a resolved "issue" resolved well before you even showed up. Good work!
>>
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>>48358533
>(your?)
Nah that isnt me. I gave up when I realized I could care less.
>>
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Hey guys.

Got my shapeways order yesterday.
Pretty nice overall. I'm especially happy with the chapter standard and the two bare heads.

The shoulderpad prototype is decent. Needs to be about a millimeter shorter and half a millimeter wider.

I also plan to update the chaplain helm because the teeth didn't come out clear enough and neither did his crozius wings or the detail on his banner.

I'll also be making heads for a librarian and five scouts and five scout legs.
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>>48358558
>I could care less.
You certainly could
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>>48358620
oh hey, I remember you working on those. Will be interesting to see them with a coat of paint. Kind of hard to make out the detail on the translucent resin.
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>>48358648
>>48358640
Nice casts. Now you need to do a squad of Tau Stealth Suits ;)
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>>48358620
they look pretty good(fromwhat i can tell) how much did they cost you?
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What kind of respiratory protection should be used when painting? I'm serious about getting into miniatures but I don't want to inhale any fumes if I can avoid it. Surely there's something easier than a gas mask? ...right?
>>
>>48358875
There realy is none needed in normal brush painting. If you prime, airbrush with certain paints, or sand resin (ESPECIALLY chinacast) then a paint respirator is pretty safe.

pic related is what I have and it was only $20. just make sure it's rated for paint fumes and not just sanding
>>
>>48358875
Are you talking about while you are priming or actually painting?

If its the first just do it outside ideally and if you are really paranoid hold your breath as you dance around your mini or use a bandana.

If its the latter then what the fuck do you think we use to paint minis? Lead Paint? They are acrylics, nothing special or hazardous as long as you aren't drinking them or something.
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>>48358986
You really should wear at least a bandanna when spray painting outside.
When I don't, and blow my nose after, there are flecks of colour in the mucous. Good indication that at least something should still be worn outside.
>>
>>48358986
>If its the latter then what the fuck do you think we use to paint minis? Lead Paint? They are acrylics, nothing special or hazardous as long as you aren't drinking them or something.

LoL, okay there. Inhaling any of it at all is simply bad for you. Sure, you can say "it's just a little bit" but that shit isn't supposed to be in your lungs at all.
>>
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>>48358080
>storefronts
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>>48359023
or you could just hold your breath for a couple of seconds.
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>>48359023
Yeah I just use a bandana over my nose and mouth and try not to inhale much while spraying.

>>48359043
>LoL, okay there. Inhaling any of it at all is simply bad for you. Sure, you can say "it's just a little bit" but that shit isn't supposed to be in your lungs at all.

I said that for the latter which means actual painting, ya know like with a brush... Do you sit there with a mask while you paint at your desk?

Probably would need one for airbrushing.
>>
>>48359099
Or you could take those same couple seconds to cover your breathing holes. Do what you like, not my lung.
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>>48357558
Really fun to paint, and really easy too. Since there are several, changing bluish colors as background, I don't have to worry about perfect color matching.
>>
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Volkite power!
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>>48359286
>inferior martian tech
>not using terran-based warp guns
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>>48359286
Please tell me you're going to shade and highlight it
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>>48358671
>>48358695
Thanks. It was about $35 plus shipping for ten heads, four banners, and two small bits. The detail is difficult to read because of the clear material but I believe the quality is somewhere between GW's current marine kits and the previous ones. Only paint will tell but I'll start exaggerating the facial features from now on just in case.

>>48358672
I don't play Tau and neither should you ;)
>>
Thinking of making a sylvaneth army but I kinda want to do them in a style of a burned forest.
How would I do the burnt bark effect?
>>
I'm slowly building a Chaos Space Marines army and I stumbled onto this auction.

Guy is selling two different piles of CSM bitz for around 18$ a pop.

Can you guys see 18 bucks of value in here or at least things that would be useful when building a army?
I kind of want to go for it but I don't want to spend money on shit I'll never end up using.
>>
>>48359771
>It was about $35 plus shipping for ten heads, four banners, and two small bits

That seems to be alot for just a few bitz
>>
>>48359871
there'es more than 4 marines in there so it's worth it
>>
>>48359871
I can make out at least 6 metal bodies. Those alone should be worth the money.
>>
>>48359871
I recognize an Emperor Children's Lord, a bunch of Raptors and a really old Khorne lord on juggernaut. A flamer PA guy, I think, and a mace wielding terminator.
>>
>>48359952
brb snatching this auction
>>
>>48359952
>>48359916
>>48359904

Shit might actually have to jump on it then.

Any opinions on the second pile? Dude will ship em together so I can save like 7$ if I get both.

>>48359966
Good luck, its a swedish auction with no option for international shipping.
>>
>>48359966
Beware that the Khorne Lord looks to be without the juggernaut.
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>>48359901
I know but it's stuff I made myself.
>>
>>48359771
>I don't play Tau and neither should you ;)
That is irrelevant. You are still required to cast a clear resin Stealth team.
>>
>>48360003
An old techpriest? A DA standard bearer? A metal terminator, maybe a DW one? I see the standard for the old metal Sicarius (the one with the claws), but I can't see the body.
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>>48360003
fucking go for it. you can sell each of the bodies for at least $3. some are worth way more than that.
>>
>>48360035
Somebody already did
http://www.ozdestro.com/blog/not-failcast-clear-tau-stealth-suits-review
>>
>>48360154
I know, I saw some in person almost a decade ago.
However, those are not yours and do not fulfil your personal OBLIGATION to do it.
>>
>>48360119
>>48360056

Alright, I'm convinced.

Are techpriests useful in current CSM armies?
I was planning on a Infantry heavy army with one walker, but I guess its good to have options.
>>
>>48359871
only worth it if you're building a retro army

pewter marines don't mesh well with plastic marines
>>
>>48360223
Weeeell, you'll have much work to do, Techpriests are loyalist, so prepare yourself for one hell of a conversion ride.
They're not useful, btw.
>>
File: Brute wip.jpg (128KB, 1000x822px) Image search: [Google]
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Starting up with some AoS. This is my take on a brute. I didn't like the official colors of bright yellow or red with yellow flames, so I made him a bit more grimdark. Will ad blood and fix the base, then I'm about done.
>>
>>48360325
I'd like him better without blood

but it looks good
>>
>>48360325
That's just one clan's "official" colours anyway.
There are tons of clans with different official colour schemes and you can make your own within that "official" realm anyway.
Looks boss as is. Love the scar.
>>
>>48360325
I like it, looks way nicer that the bright yellow studio scheme.
I've not played AoS yet and I don't think I will but some of these new releases are really making me consider just getting a box/character to paint up.
>>
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I don't really know what to do with the lanterns here, was thinking of dark blue over the bars?
>>
>>48360488
Honestly, I would probably just do them like the re3st of the metal and then *maybe* some blue highlights on the outer edges closest to the light source, but leave the raised most part of the bar the metal colour.
>>
>>48360453

This is actually what made me think twice about AoS. To me it always felt as a Warmahordes - light, of some sort. But with the generals handbook, I hope I can get some games going!

>>48360383
>>48360409

Thanks! Well, I wont drown him in blood, Ill just do some on the claw I think, if you mix blood for the bloodgod with clear paper-glue you can even make threads of blood running from one edge of the claw to the other!
>>
>>48360488
lanterns are yellow m8
>>
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Got my first heroforge mini a little while ago, and I just got around to painting her. Hair is pretty fucked since I'm trying to get better at that, but overall pretty happy with how she turned out. Weird purple staff is because it's a magic item from Curse of Strahd.
>>
>>48360730
Lanterns are whatever you want them to be. You realize this is a FANTASY realm, right? With magic and FANTASY?
>>
How would one go about shading and highlighting a fighter? Pipes like the F-86 and various MiGs are especially featureless and vexing.
>>
>>48360735
That face has a lot of character. The eyes are well done.
>>
>>48360730
Shut up, Sinestro
>>
>>48360834

Thank you! I've been trying to get better at eyes since I avoided painting them for a long time. Have made several in a row now that didn't look totally fucked so that's nice.
>>
>>48360325
Those skin tones are awesome. Your making my WIP mega boss jelly.
>>
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>>48360325

Last for today. Now all left to do is wait until morning when I will drown that base in Scenic Cement and really harden those bushes. Ill throw in some static grass tufts as well on top of everything.

I followed anons advice and didn't overdo it with the blood effects, and I also did some minor detail fixes, such as the fading on the horns on the shoulderpad. Hope you like.
>>
>>48360875
>>
>>48361077

Is the armor silver with a lot of washes, or is it black with drybrushed silver?
>>
>>48360917
I was scared of eyes for a long time as well, but they were way easier and *fun* than I imagined.
Honestly, everything I have been afraid to attempt has always been way easier and way more enjoyable than I expected.
>>
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tried to make a bone cape for my ghoul king (will be going on terrorgheist). not sure if it turned out okay, thoughts?
>>
>>48361041

Thanks!
I used my airbrush for the skin though when the model was partly assembled. Go from camo green up to near white, then do edging with pure white on selected spots. Finish with a shade of Athonian Camoshade. I also re-applied a second shade on selected areas with black mixed in, and also went back and did some final edge on the face once again.
>>
>>48361121

Good to know, I'll try to experiment more. This was an attempt at red hair and it... did not go so well haha. I've been meaning to try out NMM for some time now maybe I'll do those soon.
>>
>>48361110

Its black base, drybrush from Black-metal, followed by a light drybrush of gun-metal, then a extremely light drybrush on edges and such with silver.
This was all shaded with Agrax, then edged gently with gun, and on selected dots even silver.
I wanted it to be black´ish, but still look like metal, I think it came out alright.
>>
>>48361121

Leaving the eyes as a shadow wash looks too good for me to bother trying to actually paint them as it will never look as good or be as effortless.

But I suspect I won't be able to do this once I paint female miniatures/non-gruff types.
>>
>>48361215
And you'll have a tricky time starting to learn on more delicate female eyes with all those previously squandered opportunities at practice ;)
>>
>>48361243
>implying

You better not be the same moron who said eyes were easy otherwise you're going to look like a fucking retard.
>>
>>48361300
I am the same person, and what *I* find easy does not translate to what others find easy nor are male eyes the same as female eyes. Calm down nitpicker. Is that all you have in life is nitpicking? Calm down with the retard shit, retard.
>>
>>48361300
Reading comprehension and critical thinking aren't your "thing" are they?
>>
>>48361141
the panoramic pics kinda make it hard to tell. Looks alright so far though.

>>48361148
Nice, might try some of that.
>>
>>48361382
>the panoramic pics kinda make it hard to tell. Looks alright so far though.
Not the person that shared it, but why? It's not the best choice, but you can see it perfectly in the first picture alone. The dead space on either side doesn't magically block anything and the image is in focus.
>>
>>48361362
>Tells someone to calm down twice in a row

I love when people tell others to calm down on /tg/, especially when they're the maddest ones in the thread.
>>
>>48361362
>>48361377
>acts like a cunt and expects people not to call him out on it

Keep up the great job, you're making the /wip/ generals such a better place with your quality posts :)
>>
>>48361454
How am I even remotely mad? That is called projecting.
You do realize I responded to a cunt, essentially calling out their cuntary like you just said to expect. You aren't doing anything to dispel the accusation of your piss poor reading comprehension and if it isn't you... well, you too have some shit reading comprehension as well. Good work!
And what quality have you brought to this thread? Nothing? Just perpetuation arguments? You too keep up the great job, hypocrite.
>>
>>48361186
>>48361077
looks more than alright, senpai

really like the model too, kinda want to take a crack at one myself.
>>
>>48361421
Their asking if the bone cape works. The 1st pic is the only clear pic of it, and it's a top down pic that only really shows the cape, and cuts off the rest of the model. It's hard to see how well the conversion works when none of the pics give a view of the whole model.
>>
Van Saar time!
>>
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>>48360251
>pewter marines don't mesh well with plastic marines

To each his own. I think they look just fine... or was that referring specifically to Chaos Marines?
>>
>>48361822
Aren't those all metal and/or plastic from the same era? He means mesh side by side with current plastic sculpts, I am sure.
But I don't agree with him anyway.
>>
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I did what I could to save them

Something is missing colour wise beside red and dirty white. Maybe paint the part of the shoulder pads white or gold.

Still have to do the guns and heads.
>>
Painted up a Battletech Hatchetman on Sunday. I missed a moldline going across the top of the "head". Didn't notice until after base coat was on. Too much of a piece of trash to remove it.

Also didn't realize until after I was done that I was using the Constructacon color scheme from Transformers.
>>
>>48361907
>>
Anyone have that infographic that shows how to take better photos of your miniatures?
>>
>>48361920
Jesus. I missed a lot of moldlines. Didn't even notice until looking at the pictures. My shame grows.
>>
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Hay WIP thread I'm thinking of using some of these guys as Inquisition acolytes in 40K. Is there any decent-looking way to file/sand off the Admech skull or cover it up?
>>
>>48361953
Yup, and here is what you do!
Take a file... and file the symbol off. Holy fuck, mind blowing, I know!

But yeah, simply cut it off with a.sharp blade, and then file it smooth. Then with like 800 grit sand paper sand it smooth.
>>
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trying a new thing with force weapons on GKs using soulstone blue. back is old blades without varnish, front is soulstone over runefang

crappy phone is only handy camera currently
>>
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Is there a guide to SM poses and the parts needed because all my marines are just 'point bolter' poses.
>>
>>48361586
>The 1st pic is the only clear pic of it
So you are complaining for no relevant reason. Gotcha.
>>
Does anyone have any recommendations on desk organization systems, either purpose made or adapted? I have a 48x24 table that I have set aside, but I would like to leverage some vertical space on it if I can, and make it less of a mess.
>>
>>48361864
>Aren't those all metal and/or plastic from the same era?

It's mostly Second and Third Edition, but with some later and earlier bitz thrown in. From left to right:

Metal Second Edition Mk VII Eagle Armour with Second Edition arms and Phobos-pattern bolt gun
Plastic Third Edition Mk VII Eagle Armour with Third Edition arms and Godwyn-pattern bolt gun
Plastic Third Edition Mk VII Eagle Armour with Third Edition arms and Godwyn-pattern bolt gun
Plastic Third Edition Mk VIII Errant Armour with Fifth Edition power fist and Second Edition Phobos-Pattern bolt gun
Metal Second Edition Mk IV Imperial Maximus Armour with Third Edition arms and Godwyn-pattern bolt gun
Metal/Plastic hybrid Mk IV Imperial Maximus Armour (Master of the Ravenwing torso) with metal Third Edition heavy bolter
Metal Second Edition Mk VII Eagle Armour with Second Edition arms and Third Edition Godwyn-pattern bolt gun
Metal Second Edition Mk VII Eagle Armour with flamer (single-piece casting)
Plastic Third Edition Mk VII Eagle Armour with Corvus-pattern helmet and First Edition Umbra-pattern bolt gun
Metal First Edition Mk VI Corvus Armour with Umbra-pattern bolt gun and bio-scanner

>He means mesh side by side with current plastic sculpts, I am sure.
>But I don't agree with him anyway.

I thought maybe he meant the wide variation in Chaos sculpts over the years depending on whose aesthetic they followed. The visual differences in generations is probably exceeded only by da Orks... but then again, da Orks has been around longer than any other faction in 40K.
>>
>>48362585
>Is there a guide to SM poses and the parts needed because all my marines are just 'point bolter' poses.

There is, but I can't promise you that you are going to like them.
>>
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>>48359286
Time for enamel washing
>>
>>48362750
>The visual differences in generations is probably exceeded only by da Orks
I'd say Eldar beat out Orks from RT to today.
>>
>>48362799
that entire article was great. I think it was from WD200 right?
>>
>>48362944
found in here I suppose:
>https://kat.cr/games-workshop-magazine-original-white-dwarf-magazine-issues-101-202-t9116678.html
>>
>>48362825
holy fuck that's a difference. what techniques are you using?
>>
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Adding another layer of Glow in the Dark paint over the first layer of dried Woodland Scenics Realistic Water. Once that is dry, I will pour another layer of Realistic Water.
>>
>>48361766
Where's the rest of them?
I'd be interested to know what bodies you'll be using.
>>
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>>48361907
>Battletech Hatchetman

Buckaroo, The White House wants to know is everything OK with the alien space craft from Planet 10, or should we just go ahead and destroy Russia?
Tell him "yes" on one and "no" on two.
Which one was "yes?" Go ahead and destroy Russia... or number 2?
>>
So I'm making a vindacare assassin stand-in for my guardsmen. This is a general mock-up, where in the back will be a spotter using a range finder and in the front will be the gunner with a shoulder fired autocannon with extended barrel.

Thoughts or suggestions for additional bits to add? I was thinking of adding a servo skull to the Spotter's backpack.
>>
> Still new to building models
> all my SM models are leaning too far forward.
Is there a way to avoid this?
>>
>>48361953
Friendly reminder to be careful when working with resin, as the dust can be very harmful in an irreversible way. Use a mask, anon.
>>
>>48363635
I'm usually against such far-off 'counts-as', but this could be very cool.

Maybe pop it on a 40-50mm round base?
>>
>>48363823
Amen to that. plus 100 fold for chinacast. I was not even sanding a model, just slicing off some mold lines, and then as I slice just the smell of pure gasoline hit me hard. Wasn't my model either, was assembling it for a buddy who got it off ebay. put the mask on real quick after that.
>>
>>48363635
how about a signum?
>>
>>48363719

You have to glue them with their toes off the base. There's no way to fix it. I'm guessing you probably have the really old tactical squad where the hands are still attached to the arm.

This is why my army uses 100% forge world resin and assault marine legs. They're all walking or running forward and standing upright instead of doing GW's retarded power leans and squats.
>>
>>48363927
The feet aren't the problem, it's getting the torso's lined up right and i just can't get it right.
>>
>>48363927
Those squats are required in order to jump up 3" levels between floors on ruins with all their weight.
>>
>>48363842
i will try a 40mm base that way I can have the gunner lay down to shoot.
>>
>>48364126
Maybe a bike base for the length of the gun?
>>
>>48364054

That's the only way they'll be able to assault the tanks on the third floor with their one-per-squad krak grenade!
>>
Trying to paint yellow on black as a beginner and it's going about as well as pic related. I was trying two coats of Averland Sunset and then two layers of Uriel Yellow. Should I just go out and buy Lahmian Medium? I feel like I'm painting cheese.
>>
>>48364245
>Trying to paint yellow on black

Why do people keep doing this? It's pretty common advice to not do this and yet everyone still does it.
>>
>>48363268
Second layer of Glow in the Dark paint ripples has been applied.
Embrace the Glow!
>>
>>48364265
as the original poster, I can at least say for me that I tried using Daemonic Yellow primer to horrible results on my test dudes and defaulted to using a black primer since I knew I couldn't fuck it up. This is an old 3rd edition marine that I'm fucking around on because I've got 25 Calth Tacticals primed in black and I'm trying to make their alternative color scheme work (primarily black with yellow shoulders and helm)
>>
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my first attempt at basing/ my first fully finished model. It's not great but i know shit all about basing. Not really happy with the model grass i have but it's all i could find.

Any CC is welcome.
>>
>>48364363
I actually kinda like the mossy grass you have there.
Take a sharp knife and/or some tweezers and scrape the stuff off the rim. Then paint the rim again a nice solid black.
Not bad otherwise.
>>
>>48364363
Also, always disable the flash on your camera when taking pictures of your miniatures.
It is *never* useful and *always* looks terrible.
>>
>>48364410
yeah i want to make a light box but i can barely afford models and paint, let alone something to aid in taking pictures of my mediocre work.
>>48364388
will do, thanks.
>>
>>48364443
>>48364328
My lightbox was made from cardboard and a sheet of black bristle board I got from the corner store for a twoonie.

Cut 4 piece of cardboard 1'x1' and glue them together with a bottom, back and two sides leaving the front and top open.
Cut a sheet of the bristle board 12"x16" and place it curved from the bottom from to top back.
I just made a larger one with a fresh sheet of bristle board and a Home Depot moving box that an ex-housemate left after moving out.
>>
>>48364362
>defaulted to using a black primer since I knew I couldn't fuck it up

I dunno the current results look kinda like you fucked it up. What about grey or white primer?
>>
>>48364558
This was two coats of Averland and one coat of Yriel. My brush control is awful. Should I be using a small brush for this kinda thing or a bigger one? I wish I could take a painting class for minis somewhere.
>>
>>48364588
I'm sorry bro but I gotta say it: thin your paints. That's the major problem here
>>
>>48364588

I used a small brush for layering marines for the longest time. Now I said fuck it and use a big brush and it works fine. It just means extra clean up when you get colors in spots they shouldn't go which takes less time than trying to paint an entire marine with a small brush.

Big brush doesn't mean thick paint though, you still have to thin your paint. If I were you I'd try using a brown base then yellow on top of that. If you don't have a brown try thinning the yellow more until it's quite watery and slopping it on. Then let it dry for a few minutes. When it's completely dry, slop on some more. Do this three to five times and it should end up a smooth and solid yellow.
>>
>>48364521
>>48364443

Pictures of my super cheap lightboxes.

Also, protip: tape a piece of parchment paper over your light source(s) to help defuse the light and reduce refection on your models.

Open in an image editor (re: GIMP if you want something free) and crop it, resize it (reduce resolution - ie to a width of 1500 "max" when sharing here; mine are usually 500, 750, or 1400), run it through colour correctiong (Colors->Layers->Auto), and finally export the image as a jpg reducing the image quality to 50-75%.
>>
>>48364631
would you use water or some sort of medium?
>>
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Guys can we talk about what you all do while painting and our painting "rituals"?

I have this massive problem where every time I sit down to paint I get really depressed and I kind of feel like I'm wasting my time. It's possibly because I have no one to game with. Does anyone else get this? How to counter?

What activities do you do while painting? I usually just listen to music, but last night I tired watching shows.

It's possible I'd do better with painting being the background activity to something else. Idk.
>>
>>48364643

Medium is always better than water but you can do it with water.
>>
>>48364654
>I have this massive problem where every time I sit down to paint I get really depressed and I kind of feel like I'm wasting my time. It's possibly because I have no one to game with. Does anyone else get this? How to counter?

I don't really think about it. It's going to be so long until my army is fully painted that it's not a real issue, and by then I can probably find a random guy at the store or new players will start playing and I can play them. Painting is what I spend most of my time doing anyway.

If I finish my army 100% and really can't find a game, then just start a second army that you can loan to people or play against with yourself. I have played a lot of video games and card games that don't have a solo play mode without an opponent so maybe I'm used to it. E.g. playing M:tG but not having time to go down to the card shop, or playing a PvP game that has a very small and dying playerbase. Guess I'm just a player who is forced to become a collector a lot of the time.
>>
>>48364654
I listen to audiobooks. TONS of audiobooks. You would not believe how many books you can burn through while painting.
>>
>>48364685
>Guess I'm just a player who is forced to become a collector a lot of the time.
I know these feels. Big time. Maybe I will just try not thinking about it.

I'd paint drunk if it didn't fuck my quality up.
>>
>>48364643
usually a flow aid medium (NOT a Matte Medium from Golden or Liquitex like sometimes incorrectly suggested here - although you can surely get a transparent drying Flow Aid from these two companies - which is recommended actually).
Or Lahmian Medium which is GWs flow aid with what I suspect is a tiny bit of a matte medium in it.

It really depends on what you are doing and want to achieve. You can even utilize dish soap to achieve effects along the spectrum of what I am talking about here.
You can have your paints flow nice and evenly over whatever surface you are applying it to (with your flow aid), you can have it be a tiny bit wishy-washy generally staying on the surface you are applying it to, but with a bit of movement from the surface into the depths, you can have it mostly flow off of the raised surfaces into the recesses a la GWs Shades by using substantially more flow aid than for the nice even coat mentioned first, and you can have it flow almost completely off of any raised surface and almost fully into the recesses by adding the tiniest bit of dish soap to the previous method.
>>
>>48364654
Oh, and if you learn to paint well, as opposed to "creatively," you can gain a lot of legit admirers and even people that have connections to other gamers. And by this, I mean follow the WarhammerTV tutorials and learn a little color theory. Neither of which are difficult.
>>
>>48364762

Lahmian Medium is a satin medium. Gloss and satin mediums work fine, it's matte that is problematic. Acrylic thinner medium and the medium in acrylic paints is just satin medium.
>>
>>48364685
>or play against with yourself
does this work? i remember playing against myself with Legos, which never turned out well because I always picked a favorite I'd make win
>>
>>48364654
I listen to audio books (currently starting book 5 of The Wheel of Time) or podcasts, taking regular breaks (15 minute breaks every 45 minutes of hobbying).

I also like to smoke marijuana while I paint but some people here freak out at what others do.
>>
>>48364799

You do have to make a conscious effort to play your absolute best when using your less favorite side.

I also would get pissy when my favored side lost whenever I played YGO by myself.
>>
>>48364769
>follow the WarhammerTV tutorials and learn a little color theory

Everyone here should take a moment to *read* about Color Theory.
http://www.colormatters.com/color-and-design/basic-color-theory
>>
Painting these for a guy at my flgs, probably in exchange for a couple grey knight models.
>>
>>48364801
>book 5

shit that series took me almost my entire teenage years to get through

fuck it's long
>>
>>48364835

Is that silver VMA metallic or the new Citadel stuff?
>>
>>48364837
Yeah I know eh? I read the first 8 as they were published, but now this dude and lady are reading it to me from the beginning. It's going much faster now that they read while I paint.
I am just finishing chapter 57 of 58 from book 4.
I am really enjoying the re-listen actually. Really brings me back. They were my first real jump into reading as a child and those characters really grew on you after 5000 or so pages.
Can't wait to get past where I left off.
>>
>>48364856
it's citadel leadbelcher. Though the middle one is leadbelcher->ironbreaker->nuln oil
>>
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>>48364631
>>48364663
>>48364762
>>48364796
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm honestly trying to be less shit at this hobby. I just ran to my LGS minutes before closing and got a pit of Lahmian Medium. Anywhere I can go to find out how to use it? Nobody working was a painter sadly.
>>
>>48364923
think of it as a regular paint without any pigment in it. so if you add one drop of lamian to one drop of any other paint, it's twice as runny but the consistency wont fuck up.

I only really use it for when i need to thin metallics since regular paints are fine with water
>>
>>48364923
Ideally by using a dropper and on a wet palette.
Add some paint to your palette with a dropper, toothpick or old brush, add a couple drops to your paint to make it a milk like consistency.
If mixing to a wash/shade consistency, I do so in a concaved plastic pallette and add much more Lahmain to it so its transparent, but does not pool when applied to the model.
Definitely try to get some droppers next time youre at your local craft or hobby store.
>>
At work so I can only post the reference pic

Just finished sanding the "stones" for the base of the building. It's going to be terrain for mordheim/warmahoards
>>
I'm planning "coal mine" terrain for my Genestealer Cult/Space Hulk models. Does anyone know of some kind of small crystals or maybe even ground glass that I could use to simulate carbon crystals?

Also, do you guys think it's worth sawing off the terrain from my Space Hulk Genestealers to fit them on bases? Or should I just leave most of it, with overhang?
>>
>>48363532
I'm gonna use the Deathwatch Overkill Genestealer Hybrids with head and weapon swaps. I'll probably do what I should've done with my Orlocks and magnetise them all. Pic related is the start of my gang boss. He'll get a plasma gun and sword.

I haven't got much other in the way of pictures, on account of being on the wrong continent from the rest of my stuff, but on the other hand I could get bits without paying shipment across the pond.
>>
>>48364923

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeu7t2Jqc3k#t=0m45s

This guy uses Lahmian Medium on camera ALL THE FUCKING TIME. It's like the only thing he uses to thin his paints.
>>
>>48365181
his voice is so relaxing. also one more stupid noob question: should I be thinning EVERY paint? I just tried lahmiam-ing a little averland sunset and it got pretty...not basecoat looking.
>>
>>48365334

There's never any harm in thinning a paint. The only stuff I can say is safe to use without thinning is airbrush paint like Citadel Air, Forge World paint, Vallejo Model Air, etc. Washes and glazes also don't need to be thinned but you can thin them.

You should always be thinning "regular" paints, especially Citadel Layers and Bases, and even Vallejo Model Color or Game Color.

The special Citadel technicals can also be used without thinning as water may ruin their properties like the grime paint or the chunky dirt.

Citadel Bases are thicker by default as they're supposed to cover things like black primer more easily. I would recommend thinning them with only a tiny drop of water or thinner until it is smooth and not mushy or chunky. You don't need to thin it down to be as thin as a Citadel Layer paint as that defeats the purpose. It will still work when it's that thin, you're just going to have to do repeated layers of it to get a solid color.
>>
>>48364443
Don't listen to him, Anon. Scrape the excess basing off the rim and paint that motherfucker Goblin Green. Doing it any other way is just wrong.
>>
Guys, I'm looking for some help. I've been cooking up this idea about a Texas/Cowboy themed Imperial Guard squadron and am trying to figure out a good blue for trying to paint denim on them. Any help towards this would be greatly appreciated.
>>
I just got my 1st order of Chinacast in. How do I prime them, like normal GW plastic or something more heavy duty?
>>
>>48365643
>or something more heavy duty?
A nice wrap of duct tape or a thinned layer of krazy glue should do the trick.
>>
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I'm going to make a display of all 18 legions, 2 blackshields, and 2 lost legions (the lost will be painted like marble statues).

These are (from top left) Iron hand, imperial fist (Templar), white scar, word bearer, Raven guard, iron warrior, dark angel, alpha legion, night lord , and death guard.
>>
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Anyone here ever done a Gundam? I have to do one next project. He wants it 'classic and weathered. The model was only $20 so I'm thinking of doing two in a diorama.

Ive never built Gunpla before, Im a bit confused on how you pose them. Is it like building/posing a Contemptor, only with 100 pieces?

Im not super stoked about this either, Im not a fan of Gundam.

>pic of kit I bought
>>
>>48365643
>clueless recastfag

Fucking lol. And you still try to claim the reason you're buying recasts ISN'T because you're so dumb and poor.
>>
>>48365818

Open the kit to see what you're dealing with. They have thousands of components and are fully poseable. You don't just set them in a pose and call it a day.

This also means you have to paint, or at least prime each component individually. Snap the two calves together and spray that, spray the hip and knee joints separately, then build, etc. It's a huge pain in the ass. And 100% of gundam painters use an airbrush and don't do shit like highlighting for the same reason.
>>
>>48365642

Probably Alatioc Blue, mixing in Pale Wych Flesh for your highlights.
>>
>>48365825
Nah my m8 was ordering some and I thought I may as well order some OOP minis in the same order
>>
>>48361077
add some checks on panel or two, and you're golden, great job with the skin and weathering.
>>
>>48365853
don't listen to that judgemental shit eater. you don't need to justify anything to anyone let alone That Guy.
Wish the models around in water with a little bit of dish soap, rinse them off and let dry.
Prime as normal.
>>
>>48365775
What colours did you use for the alpha shoulderpad?
>>
>>48365900
Incubi darkness for the lines, sybarite green, and averland sunset.

I need to give it a green wash so it blends in better with the armour.
>>
>>48365611
I don't have that shade but I do think Brown or green would look better than black.

Also, what color should I do these spikey bits and the secondary plating on the smoke stack things on his back? I don't want them to be exactly the same color as the rest of the carapace/armor but ill if I should highlight them with a lighter bone color or do them a totally different color like purple, green, yellow, red, etc.
>>
>>48365950
Thank you
>>
>>48365951
Forgot pic
>>
>>48365884
>judgemental shit eater
>misspells judgmental
>doesn't realize he's being a judgmental shit eater when he calls someone a judgmental shit eater

Fukken' K E K
>>
>>48365836
Huh. Is there any reason I cant just glue it into a pose and then paint it in one go like a traditional model?
>>
>>48365951
I was just fucking with ya m80. Once upon a time it was in-vogue to paint bases bright fucking green. Nowadays bright green bases are mostly done as a throwback instead of a legit base.
>>
>>48366007

You could, but pretty much every gunpla hobbyist leaves them poseable. Being able to change and pose them is half the fun, and what distinguishes them from a statue. Like taking someone's magnetized space marines, and then gluing all the magnets together.
>>
Retarded imperial fist guy again. This was as good as I could get after painting 4 old Marines yellow. Gonna try to work on my 30k army tomorrow...god help me...
>>
>>48366002
Yeah, good come back. "Kek" indeed. Spaz on spaz.
>>
>>48366044
damn, seeing it blown up that huge on my desktop monitor hurts. does Citadel make a Hemlock Medium I can drink to end this suffering?
>>
>>48366012
gotcha. i was thinking a green along the lines of the skin, or i think i have doombull brown, would look nice around the base so it's less of a dramatic change to the mossy stuff.
>>
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>>48366044
dont worry about everyone giving you shit, we've all gone through this part of the hobby where you learn mostly through trial and error. you'll get there :)
>>
>>48365775
As a Dark Angels player, both 30k and 40k, I would very much like to know where the parts for that model came from. It looks awesome, perfect fit for the knightly 30k Angels without going all 'muh robes n shiet'
>>
>>48365884
Thanks anon
>>
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Hey. |
this is my first time Converting and Painting a tank.
How did i do? i have done similar ones to this. and some infantry. but they are largely the same.
>>
>>48361907
Not a fan of the model, but this is really well painted!
>>
>>48361893
What unit are these?
>>
>>48366280
i have more Pictures.
>>
>>48366046
>unironically uses the word spazz
>keeps responding to bait because he's so fucking buttmad

Keep digging that hole deeper, it's a good look for you. You're so cool!
>>
>>48366430
not him, but you really sound young.
>>
>>48360003

Some heavy weapons, some wolf guard miniatures and a bunch of transport bits. Both are not "great hauls" but they're pretty reasonable for what you get. Ultimately I prefer new kits for all the extra bits you get, these kinds of auctions usually disappoint unless you can get them cheap.
>>
>>48366181
Its a mk 2 assault marine. The winged pistol is from the blood angels tactical box. The sword and arm and backpack are from the betrayal at calth set.
>>
>>48360488

Go over the bars with some guilliman glaze and be very careful. They only have to be slightly darker to create an effect.
>>
What are some good products to do dusty weathering effects? I'm still fairly new to painting so I'm not sure what it's called even.
>>
>>48366571
Letting it sit in a cabinet for six months
>>
>>48366571
weathering pigments, FW has some, but theres other companies that do them as well
>>
>>48361300

Eyes really are not that hard except on /tg/ people don't respect eye sockets, use thick paints and don't give their minis round pupils

>put down basecoat of bone or ivory, depending on the brightness you want
>put down a small round dot with an ink pen or a tiny brush with barely any paint on it
>paint eyelids in flesh color above and below
>use a small amount of wash on the eyelids to create depth

This is the first mini I ever finished, it's really not that impossible to do this.
>>
>>48361893

You should pick out iconography in gold, rivets/pistons/joins in platemail and add thin orange highlights along the lines of the armor.
>>
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>>48366044
Anon, my brother. I believe in you. Prime white and use two coats of yriel yellow. The layer paints are nice and transparent and when properly thinned give a nice smooth surface.

Watch warhammer tv tutorials and observe duncan paint anything for technique. There is as nice imperial fists tutorial as well. You shouldn't need to worry about lahmian medium. Adding paint to your brush, removing excess, getting some water on the tip, twisting the brush a bit to get a nice tip and smooth out excess. This should be enough. Make yellow your bitch.
>>
>>48361953

Do you mean henchmen? Acolytes are young inquisitors in training. If they're henchmen, you don't have to shave off anything because Inquisitors have all kinds of henchmen from different affiliations. These are the people who can kill planets, they can requisition a few elite troops.

Personally I'd use them as henchmen and add an inquisition symbol as well as personal inquisitor heraldry to them.
>>
>>48366280
Your paint seems a bit grainy, but it seems to work well on a tank
A solid effort for your first time anon, keep it up
Please post some more pics of your army
>>
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>>48366731
these are my Scions, i had a tonne of trouble with the eyes, Is there an easier way to do them?
>>
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Need some suggestions for a medieval warband's colours. Something relatively easy that I can give a wash of Agrax too.

Was thinking maybe dark green and mid blue.
>>
>>48366044

Stop trying to cover the marine in a single layer, it doesn't work.
>>
>>48366747

Essentially
>white base
>pool blue wash in the recesses
or
>wash blue + small light blue or white dot in the center
>>
>>48366890
Thank you very much, i will retry it soon.
>>
>>48360488
Where's the tree from? Looks lovely.
>>
>>48366919

Judging from the floor faces something japanese styled, probably Kingdom Death
>>
>>48366928
yep its KD.
>>
>>48366919
The Lonely Tree from Kingdom Death: Monster.

It's price is painful for how little game content it provides.
>>
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>>48366959
but it looks nice

Actually all of the Kingdom Death models look great, I fucking love the nuclear dragon
>>
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Finished painting my Castellax/Kastelan stand ins. These guys were a joy after nothing but infantry for a while
>>
>>48366977
Dragon is top-tier expansion but always sells out super quickly.
>>
>>48366978

I do like them but a few small things are bothering me

>the battle damage looks weird, I'd make the edges darker to show the in-universe "primer" underneath the paint
>the green lenses have no depth, hit the recesses with a green wash
>blue could use some highlights

I like the concept very much and I'm just nitpicking at this point
>>
>>48367022
Thank you anon! Now that I really look at them you've got some very valid points.

The blue I use for the armor/cloaks in my list is Caledor Sky -> Teclis Blue, I'm not sure what I'd use to highlight that color, since Teclis is the lightest blue I have. Maybe just Teclis with a little white mixed in?
>>
>>48367118

For edge highlights you need a pretty drastic color change so I'd go for temple guard or a less drastic lothern blue.

Do some sprue tests before you actually apply them, it would be a waste and hard to correct if you did it on the mini right away.
>>
>>48367210
That's a great idea, I kept all my sprues to run through a meat grinder and make rubble. I was planning on going to the hobby shop tomorrow anyways to pick up a pile of Sentinels, I can get the paint then.

Thank you anon(s)!
>>
>>48367267

Just remember, small amounts of paint on the brush by wiping off excess and use the side of the tip at a 45 degree angle instead of the tip to paint the edges.
>>
>>48362902
You've evidently not seen many of the old ork stuff.
>>
>>48364245
Yes buy medium.

And lay down some brown before the yellow.
>>
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Just finished my first Chaos Marauder Horsemen... didint realize it was so labor intensive...

keep hating on me Tau fags--I'll be playing Age Of Sigmar at da club while you cry with no bae
>>
>>48364654
Podcasts are great. There's plenty on various games and tactics or stuff like the giant bomb cast for vidya.

I might look into some audio books though I assume some of the 40k ones got done.
>>
>>48360003
Man vet aldrig, muahahahahahah!!!!1
>>
>>48364801
Do you find your painting gets a bit worse?
>>
>>48365075
My girlfriends father collects and polishes semi-precious stones. We got a bunch of black crystals off him for her necron army.
He had a big jar he bought off a guy. Maybe see if you can do that, be warned though silicon dust is serious shit. Like really sick very quick sort of deal.

Otherwise secret weapon and a few other companies make plastic crystals check those out.
>>
>>48366334
Dreamforge Valkir, being repurposed into Sisters of Battle with off-brand power armour, I believe.
>>
>>48366471
And like a shit head
>>
>>48357729
I would drybrush up to a bright silver then wash it many many times with nuln oil.
Putting on the wash your options are;
Airbrush thin layers letting each fully drym
Put medium in the wash 50/50 so you an stay in control of it. Again let it dry before adding the next. There might also be some brown metallic in there so a coppery metal baseboat might do it. trim in Black/dark grey and the stripes are self explanatory but put them under the wash.
>>
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Hey /wip/, I figured this was the right place to ask this. Planning to sell those two necromunda minis, can't really find for how much they would go.. mostly on the local craigslist equivalent, don't wanna be bothered with ebay for a dozen of minis lying around in a box at my parents
>>
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my two squads of guardsmen, but i finished the cadian arms before finishing the whole second squad.
>>
>>48367540
You have evidently not seen old eldar stuff. I've been in 40k since the start. I've seen every single model they have produced for 40k. You could throw old ork models into a current ork army. You cannot say the same for old rt Eldar by any stretch. Harlequins have changed more than orks.
>>
>>48368607
where are the bodies from?
>>
>>48364265
Meh, I get a perfectly smooth full coverage with yellow once black in two easy coats. Honestly I don't understand why anyone has trouble with yellow. I showed my Herald of Tz earlier and am doing 11 horrors, 4, 3 screamers and 1 DP yellow and its been nothing but easy. I normally recommend a brown base for yellow, but honestly, that's just good colour theory and only for depth if you aren't fully blocking the colour in as a base.
>>
>>48368654
victoria miniatures
>>
>>48367752
From what? Pot? The exact opposite. The effects of "reefer madness" still echo all these decades later.
>>
>>48364654
I put dancing jav videos, silly action movies, podcast, audio books.

>>48366625
Sadly the models it self do not have many icons, unlike marine models, joints and rivets are non existent.

The guns might help. Black casing and mithril silver on the gun bits.
>>
>>48364245
try using revell paints , they are ideal paints and stick on whatever color and surface you desire.Hell , if youre desperate , you could apply them without any basecoat and they'll (probably , not guaranteed though) stick.The thing is , they are very different from GW's colors and require Turpentin/Nitro/Revells own weird shit that is identical in every form but has three different names and bottles for thinning and also don't quite match the Gw colours without a little tinkering
>>
>>48368815
there are 2 kinds of revell paints though:
enamel paint and acrylic (= water based like gw) paint.
You don't have to use revell if you want enemals btw.
>>
>>48366280
why is your hull mounted flamer upside down?
>>
>>48368965
Same reason a giant hair is right beside it ;)
>>
>>48368761
>>
>>48369081
Honestly, some of you here would really benefit from it.
>>
>>48368574

If you have the full set and you clean them properly with acetone you can get 4 to 6 dollars a mini quite easily depending on which gang you have
>>
>>48369042
Because women can' t model?
>>
>>48369168
No, OP is balding.
>>
>>48366044
Jesus prime it fucking white. You're trying to paint them yellow, a very light color. Why the fuck would you prime them as dark as possible to prepare for that?
>>
>>48368574
>Hey /wip/, I figured this was the right place to ask this. Planning to sell those two necromunda minis, can't really find for how much they would go.. mostly on the local craigslist equivalent, don't wanna be bothered with ebay for a dozen of minis lying around in a box at my parents

The top model is one of the multi-part House Orlock gangers released by Fanatic after GW stopped caring about Specialist Games... although rumours are that Necromunda is likely to make a comeback under the new Specialist imprint. Just a regular ganger with a lasgun - if you're *really* lucky - might get you as much as $10. The more valuable models are ones that can pass as leaders or heavies with big shootas or burnas, or multi-part kits that still have a selection of weapons available to them.

The bottom model isn't for Necromunda at all, although I can totally see using her as an Orlock heavy. It's Rocket Girl, one of Colonel Schaeffer's "Last-Chancers" penal squad. His entire unit of twelve models goes for $25-$30 on eBay. I suspect they are no longer as popular as they once were because there aren't any really special roolz for them like there used to be.
>>
>>48369220
White is just as bad/good for yellow as black. You'll still need two or three coats.
The key is thinning it properly and removing excess from your brush before hitting the model and doing smooth thin coats, not rushing. Basically how you should paint any colour.
>>
>>48364328
>"Listen here you little shit -"
>>
File: 20160720_083232.jpg (465KB, 2300x1346px)
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Okay /wip/, here's my current project army so far. The ghostkeel in the back is different, yes. The base doesn't match fully, and the gold paint isn't the same either; I got it back when it first came out and painted it up (and severely over-weathered it in the process) and just started the rest of this stuff in the last 2 weeks. I'm much happier with the newer paintjobs and will be repainting the ghostkeel eventually...probably. It might just stick around as a reminder of what happens when I get too excited about weathering things.
I can get closer shots of individual models if anyone wants some. Sorry about potato image, my lightbox got lost in my move and I haven't gotten around to making a new one yet. Plus I wouldn't make an army sized one anyways.
>>
>>48367656

Looks awesome man!
>>
>>48369392
>"Down here they ALL float!"
>>
>>48365818
It`s a plastic kit with tiny little pieces that you basically built, kind like a lego kit.

Their poseability is usually pretty shit. People usually buy plastic plataforms with handlers that attach do the model back and then make them on flying poses or whatever, like pic related. You can also build your own, of course.

I really like gunpla. That reminds me I still have one model waiting to be built since january 2015.
>>
Done. Next one will be Balance or classical Crusade
>>
>>48369167
>>48369261
Thanks for the info ! I think I ordered those 10+ years ago, on GW's website. Looks like they won't sell for much, but I'll try.
>>
>>48369486
Turned out most excellent!
Love the snow covered skull.
>>
>>48365775
What are you gonna do for the iconography on the Lost Legion statues? Make them look defaced, like someone smashed off whatever symbols had been there?
>>
>>48369641
If they are statues, I think only feet should remain with crushed rubble around with maybe a few barely recognizable pieces remaining.
>>
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>>48361946
this one?
>>
>>48369428

Just because you have a Stormsurge doesn't mean you get to skimp on having three Riptides in your army, anon.

Lookin' good, though!
>>
>>48369786
I honestly don't plan on using it unless my opponent pulls out a LoW. I just wanted it because I think it looks cool.
And thanks anon, glad ya like it.
>>
>>48367007
which is why I was happy to pledge for 2 of them.
Same goes for the tree.
Should start assembling some of the stuff I got, as there's quite a bit...
>>
>>48368618

Just different opinions then.

I'd wager you're an eldar player. I'm an ork player and have never been into eldar. I have a decent amount of the old ork stuff and it looks like lumpy abominations half the time to me whereas eldar just seem like less refined versions of the currents.

Sounds like our opinions are reversed.
>>
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It's not finished, but a quick test here proves the foamcore easily supports the weight of all the paint bottles.
>>
>>48368761
Haha nah man. I live with people that smoke tons. I find they become useless at the most trivial shit, but they seem to be very heavy users. I was just interested.
>>
>>48369168
I've found the opposite to be true, and girlfriends or female friends I get into the hobby have been frustratingly good immediately.
Anecdotal of course.
>>
>>48369845
>I Love Daddy
Awwwwwwww

Yeah. just glue a back to each of those steps, connected to the front of each on. That'll give it the support it needs.
>>
>>48369916
Gender doesn't matter at all. Guy, girl, mule, it doesn't matter.

>STORE FRONT STORE FRONT STORE FRONT STORE FRONT AGGHHH
>>
>>48369845
>>48370090
Damn it internet. I can't read or hear the word daddy without making it sexual.
>>
>>48366012
One of these days I'm going to buy a box of Tactical Marines and paint them as the hilariously bright old-school Ultramarines complete with green bases.
>>
>>48369845
aww, it's so sweet that you love your daddy
>>
>>48366105
Is that image supposed to prove that you've gotten anywhere?
>>
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>>48357317
So I posted these guys about a week ago and I decided to go back and do a bit of basing. What do you guys thing? Shit, or acceptable for a horde of guardsmen?
>>
Do you guys know any 3pp that makes a big plasma cannon? I need a plasma executioner turret, but goddamn Leman Russ one never listed on ebay.
>>
>>48366430
Why are you justifying being a twat by calling it bait? Jesus christ you're the cringiest fucker i've seen on this board in a long time.
>>
>>48370238
Pretty shitty if you ask me.
>>
>>48370195
>Is that image (>>48366105) supposed to prove that you've gotten anywhere?

It looks like it was painted with gloss enamels, so I'm guessing it's where he came from, much like the RTB-01 beekee in >>48370251, which is actually one of mine.


>>48370238
>So I posted these guys about a week ago and I decided to go back and do a bit of basing. What do you guys thing? Shit, or acceptable for a horde of guardsmen?

The guardsmen themselves look great, but I don't think you did your paint jobs any favours with the basing. If that *is* texture paint under the static grass, it's not providing enough texture, which is the point of using it - especially if you shelled out for Citadel's texture paints, which are not cheap. The static grass is so sparse, it doesn't really look like... well, any kind of grass I've ever seen. How did you apply it?
>>
>>48370320
I took suggestion from a friend who's basing was pretty good. He said to take a paint bush you don't intend to use anymore, dip it in elmer's glue and put brush it onto the base, than pour on the grass and shake off the extra. A ton of the stuff came off so maybe it was a shitty idea to get the glue on everyone than put the grass on everyone.

For the record I didn't expect my first try at basing guys to go particularly well.
>>
>>48370238
GET SUM MOAR BASING ON THERE.
>>
>>48370238
Not bad at all. Some of the eyes look a bit iffy, but they can be a pain to do and no-one's gonna notice in the middle of a big unit. Solid tabletop quality, which is far better than a lot of people do.
>>
>>48370401
>I took suggestion from a friend who's basing was pretty good. He said to take a paint bush you don't intend to use anymore, dip it in elmer's glue and put brush it onto the base, than pour on the grass and shake off the extra. A ton of the stuff came off so maybe it was a shitty idea to get the glue on everyone than put the grass on everyone.

I had a similarly disappointing result when I used thinned wood glue. I should have used clear-drying PVA instead. I then took a chance on using cyanoacrylate gel, and it came out OK (pic related), but I think pre-made clumps made separately (you can buy them that way, if you're lazy like me) and then stuck strategically to the base look best of all.
>>
>>48369641
>>48369711

Either
> plain statue marines with no iconography other than II or XI on shoulder pad. Eyes forward, one with bolter across chest. The other with sword in front stabbed into the ground ( a subtle way of showing one was a shooting army, the other melee orientated)
> the reason they were destroyed. Ie one is covered in eldar weapons. The other a mutant brute ( or chaos mutated). I'm open to theories/ideas here
> looking down with cowls over there heads, no weapons, no icons. I have dark angel hoods I'll use for this.

Anyone got any ideas?

Also on a side note I'll be doing a knight errant, and a Ashen Talon as my 2 blackshields
>>
>>48370401

That's how you are supposed to do it. Though, I usually used watered down PVA glue rather than straight up out of the container, and put it on fairly thick, then immediately afterwards dip it in your grass/gravel/basing material.
>>
>>48370462
I guess I'll scrape the bases clean and give it another try. I'll probably have something to show in a few hours.
>>
>>48370489

You should be able to soak the base of the model in water, and the basing shit should fall off.
>>
>>48370463

Both were tainted by the touch of chaos, that's canon.

>primarchs get sucked into the warp and dumped on different planets
>destroys the worst ones
>still leaves 9 to get corrupted
>>
>>48369916
that wasn't a serius post man. I just wrote the first possible answer to the post i replied to.It was supposesto mean his implication wasn't clear.
>>
>>48370238
just a little point, the lfamer guy has its gun drilled, but you painted it orange and it's too easy to see it was drilled. Paint your holes black so people can't esily tell how deep the hole is.
>>
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>>48370238
The men look decent, the bases look like shit.

Get whiteglue and glue some sand onto them. Then paint that sand with a sand/earth color and apply a wash (agrax earthshade).

Then apply the gras. Bigger, denser blops of gras instead of covering the whole base with a few pieces here and there.

Pic related are historicals, but also a horde army. Basing them like i described is pretty fast and looks kinda decent without taking to much effort.
>>
Can someone show me a size comparison between Stormraven Plasma Cannon and dreadnought plasma cannon please? How big each of them are compared to regular marine figure?
>>
>>48365818
Gunpla/plamo general: >>>5795066
If it's $20, I have to assume you're dealing with a High Grade (HG). They're snap fit, but generally painting them isn't too much trouble (the newer kits tend to be designed to be portioned out for paint).
>>
>>48370547
Fair enough. With /wip/ being the way it is lately it's getting easy to assume the most malicious intent.
>>
>>48369845
no offense but I would think your model painting would translate into other types of painting too, but that text is pretty sloppy
>>
>>48370238
This. >>48370734
It's simple, but it looks nice. Bigger models definitely need something else on the base to add a little character, but some cork painted up as rocks works perfectly.
>>
>>48369486
Shouldn't the pile of snow near the skull have a shadow too?
>>
Alright /wip/ what's your favorite sculpting putty/clay
GS
Milliput
Sculpey Firm
Procreate
Something else?

I found procreate to be real nice and milliput to be really goofy to work with (Probably because it's water soluble). I've heard people say super sculpey firm doesn't hold detail as well as GS or Procreate but I find that hard to believe
>>
>>48371526
GS from greenstuffworld
>>
>>48371550
GS is nice but it's quite springy when adding features. Takes a bit of skill and time to get used to it
>>
I personally quite like Apoxy Sculpt, but it's working time is a bit odd and freshly mixed it acts almost water-soluble. But it is a lot cheaper than GS. Can't say much about it's ability to hold detail as my sculpting skills are nothing special.
>>
>>48364328

The 4 Heralds of Tzeentch have all be base coated, and now time for washes then highlights.
>>
>>48371577
i have to admit i mostly used it to fill gaps so far.
>>
>>48371658
>Now with picture!
>>
>>48357630

Anon this looks superb
>>
>>48371240
It's not a pile, just a hole, like the one in the original near it.
>>
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>>48369220
>>48369314
Trying to do pic related on left for my imperial fist veterans, figured it would be easier to prime black since the majority of the model would be black anyway. If I were going to do a fully yellow fist army...I just wouldn't, I know I'm not experienced enough yet. I'll try out a few more test Marines today but as long as they end up looking tabletop quality I'll be satisfied. My first attempts last month looked like shit.
>>
>>48371577
Try brown stuff and mixing the two.
>>
>>48371674
Moonbro is litterally perfect
>>
>>48372015
Oh, and the smaller one to the left is, conveniently, too small to have that kind of shadow
>>
So I'm the guy that had the guardsmen with shitty bases earlier. Though I would just say that I've been working on re-doing the basing. I still need another hour or two to finish it but I'm willing to say that it looks like it's going to come out much much better this time around. Will post pics when it's done.
>>
>>48372029
you could prime the head and shoulder pads white separately, that should remove the hardest part of the problem. Though that knee will still be a pain to get right.

*yay, more storefronts*
>>
>>48372234
Nice. Thats good to hear anon.
>>
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>>48372234
>I still need another hour or two to finish it but I'm willing to say that it looks like it's going to come out much much better this time around. Will post pics when it's done.

Excellent! Looking forward to seeing it in our NEW THREAD!

>>48372491
>>48372491
>>48372491
Thread posts: 349
Thread images: 85


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