WIP - Painting/Sculpting/Converting General

>>48130881
first for your youtube links are fucked

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Currently painting my favourite GW mini ever.
Will post my first vostroyan in a minute.

First for dakka dakka dakka.

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>>48131067
Now with proppa dakka.

Looked through the tyranid codex. still can't decide on a color.
oh boy.

>>48131108

Kraken is the best scheme.

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finished some sylvaneth dryads

>Place order at Dragonforge
>then notice he has a six month backlog

for fucks sake...

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>>48131023

He has that thousand yard stare.

>>48129121
>>48128978
damn these are cool but I'm not trying to paint eyes like that

>>48131119
kraken is pretty good.

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>>48131108

Install Dawn of War 2 and use the army painter to help

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Little bit more progress.

My bits and kits order is late and I'm in a severe rokkit shortage, and I can't be bothered tinkering with the doors in plasticard yet.

Should I scratch out the details on the sides of the container and replace them with orky glyphs, or just leave the details on and paint them rusted over?

>>48131231
oh cool, thanks

>>48131369

nps, you can also cycle through all the different troop types, it's really helpful.

>>48131390
i'll poke around for a torrent since i dont really want the game itself

>>48131481

Fair enough, I find it hard to believe there are 40k players who do not own this game at this point.

There does appear to be a demo on steam, not sure if that has the painter

>>48131511
I'm just getting started and havnt found much chat about the games out there

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First minis since 2010

So, I'm in the makings of creating a Red Corsairs CSM army, and I wanna convert their warband leader into a real "raider/pirate/scum of the galaxy" type of guy. Any specific things that could? Maybe use some meat-things from OK (then again, they are awfully large, so maybe trhat wouldn't look good?)

really, any and all kinda of tips would be helpful.

>>48131238
It's a neat conversion but what's the point of a battlewagon if it's not open-topped and unable to be assaulted out of?

>>48131622
Looks cool?

>>48131594
You're doing Red Corsairs but not using Huron as your warband leader? Thats crazy mang. He's hall of fame tier astartes

>>48131743
Which means he wouldn't be in every warband and would have many sub commanders ;)

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(Muffled Bauhaus emanating from land raider)

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My first (and only) mini.

>>48131932
>first (and only)
Tanith is he?

>>48131156
Looking good mang, what paints did you use for the highlights on the bark?

>>48132166
thanks man
>dryad bark
>wash of agrax
>drybrush of baneblade brown
>lighter drybrush of karak stone
>thinned highlight of ushabiti bone

>>48131932
pretty good, but I feel you just gave up on the gun because it looks unfinished and/or sloppy

>>48131097
holy shit magnet tank has paint! woot!

>>48131932
Ani, ya okay?

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Had to fix GW's god awful "BLEH I'M DRACULA" pose for my 2nd Archon. Now he's 1000 times more smug and condescending. Rate?

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So with the new Scions formation is out, and me sitting on a couple of squads of them, I thought I needed to have a Taurox Prime that I didn't want to obliterate with a sledgehammer the moment I looked at it.

So I took one of the secondhand ones I had and stripped it (original paint was some wierd glittery blue; I could not have made it uglier if I tried), then tore off the track pods. The wheels I'm replacing them with are still in the mail.

Then I took the turret and rebuilt it, gluing the hot-shot volley guns together as a twin-linked array and attaching them to the turret. I had to magnetize the turret as a result, since it could no longer rotate 90 degrees from neutral, but that wasn't hard.

I also threw on some bits from a tank upgrade sprue I had lying around. If it turns out good I might do the same to the other THREE tauroxes I've got sitting around, but I don't really see it happening at the moment.

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>>48130881
Here's the first squad I painted fully

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>>48133569
newest finished models

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So after much carving i finally managed to fit a GK head on a new plastic librarian.
I did use a power armor helm but whatevs.
Dose this look fully retarded?
I went with left arm from the regler GK termis to make it easy to magnetize the staff/hammer/falcons.

>>48133682
you can call them finished when those bases are also done.

I just got done stripping an old army and I have like a hundred little pewter units...

How should I store them? I know pewter is malleable, so it would be very bad to put them into a container all together, right? or are they pretty durable?

>>48133959
bugger off you silly chucklenugget, ape fondling wet-eared limp-willy

The middle one was based after the pic, I'll do the rest of them later on, just look at the paint job on them and forget the basing, it's nothing special either way

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Alright guys, how do you think this bad boy turned out?

I think I'm going to add a thin red line along the marks on his arms to give them some depth.

>>48134027
without paint on them you can do whatever the fuck you want and as long as you're not shaking the box they'll be all right.

After painted they'll chip if you look at them funny

Quick paint job of the AoS Dragonfate Dias for use a an Orgoth ruin for Warmahordes, or for use in Confrontation. http://imgur.com/a/hps9N

>>48134180
it looks pretty neat, but fucking post the images here you lazy cunt, it's called an imageboard for a reason

>>48134309
take a clearer picture

put more green saturation onto the glow of the statues, it looks bleached

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION

I posted them last thread: >>48117541.

I wrestled with the idea of buying this myself, but as I am wont to do (and don't really have the capital to spill so many beans - even if this lot has *three* Johnnies in it!), I posted this here.

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION


Fulgrim and the boyz were from about a year and a half ago

The right are my current WIP

>>48131238
all orky stuff get s shot and patched on a daily basis right?

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>>48134335

>>48131891
"Sighs, I'm not like other marines"

nice technical work, but its seems very emo without a body to put it in perspective.

>>48133072

You're right. It is sloppy.

>>48133529
I like it, where did you find that dual gatling gun?

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so this is attempt #1 at necron-like gems for my bases. wanted to see if I liked the red or purple more, and I think I like the red. am going to go to the park to "borrow" some sand though, since this isn't rocky enough like a necron world. any advice on how to make the gems and glow better looking paint-wise? I didn't spend time getting their shape perfected.

>>48134157
looks like he already has a thin line along his arms

>>48134551
I meant within the red layer I already slopped down

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION

This is as close to first mini as I can get, as it dates back to 2003 (after about 8 years of painting minis and a year working part time at a GW store), and between 2005-2013 I had a very long break from painting, and it took the best part of a year to get back to this standard and surpass it.

I wish I had older to show, but models like that after 20 odd years get lost, damaged or just thrown out/exchanged.

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION
2 years of progress in pic related.

>>48134180
>>48134309
>>48134481
Oddly enough the Confrontation mini look more at home in this than the AoS minis, imo.

Anyway, I'm not a fan of the scenery in general but the paint scheme on this one makes it work better than the studio paintjob GW uses.
Well done.

>>48134612
That is some excellent progress.

>>48134625
Thanks, friend.

>>48134617
Most of the AoS terrain (except the Chaos shite) looks so high fantasy that it was what immediately struck me about them. I need to get the weird sphere thing next.

>>48134550
I think the highlights make it look kind of flat.
Did you just use white? Kind of makes them look 'ashy' or just desaturated.
If you want to highlight with white you really have to go up all the way to white for it to look like they glow.

Personally I'd say they'd look a little more alive if you highlighted the red with yellow for example. More saturation.

>>48134599

He's giving you shit about the mould lines.

Looks nice, some deeper shading will help though.

>>48134684
no, I used lighter colors of red/purple. like mephiston red and a different red. I'll see how yellow works

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>>48134605

Reminds me of those monsters with the membranous wings from Beastmaster.

>>48134741
try putting some tiny extreme highlights on the corners first. The ones in your picture don't look bad, they're cleanly painted, they just don't really look like they'd be bright enough to be a lightsource.

>>48134827
how do you do extreme highlights? mix the red with white or yellow? the guide I look at mentions them too

>>48134921
It just means to highlight the most prominent parts with the brightest paint.

If you were to paint a cube with edge highlights you'd be building up a color gradient on the highlights towards the corners of the cube, were the edges meet, to visually 'sharpen' them if that makes sense.

It basically mimics how light would behave on a sharp corner like the edge of a knife for example.

The greater the contrast in that gradient the sharper the corner will look.

In this case it's just a matter to increase the contrast so the crystals look like they are actually the source of the light on base itself.

Another thing you could have a look at - completely unrelated to the highlighting thing though - could be how crystals sometimes reflect facets of themselves. That way you could break up the even surfaces with refracted light too. Just an idea though.

>>48134523
That's the Taurox Gatling Cannon, it's actually a standard part of the kit.

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>>48134605
What a 8 year break looks like when you start painting again.

Are there any good tutorials for painting beastmen?

>>48135615
http://taleofpainters.blogspot.ca/2010/05/tutorial-how-to-paint-beastmen-ungors.html

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>>48135019
alright, I tried some things. I think I'm happier with how it turned out. the white dry brush on the glow started behaving weirdly, but I'm more concerned with the stone itself. going to cut a good looking stone and retrieve some sand tomorrow for a true try. going to work on the gradient for the highlighting too. think I should make the corners even brighter too.

>>48134612
you went from 10 year old to 'eavy metal. well done.

>>48131168
Well honestly, for a first mini, it is a very good one. The eyes aren't even that bad honestly.

>>48131891
As a personal note from someone who worked with this mini and helped another friend with his; be careful with the head. It is quite a tight fit into the armor, and it barely has the clearance to make it with the mo-hawk as it was. I used a forgeworld Blood Angel head on mine, and had a very rough time with it.

Anyone got any cool ideas for how to paint a nurgle themed chaos marine army?

I have alot of standard units, some chosen, some regular terminators but I do want a nurgle themed army.

>>48131023

Which mini is this?

>>48135891

Don't think it's his first mini, just his first Vostroyan.

>>48131576

Decent paint jobs ruined by huge gaps, anon.

>>48135697
IMO The gems should be far brighter. They are the source of light for the surrounding area, and it looks like the colour they're painted is the same tone as the 'glow' area around them.

It looks good though man, keep experimenting with it!

>>48134481
Similar to this one, the eyes are super bright and the glow is a little bit muted, looks pretty nice!

>>48131975

I thought that too but I think he means that it's the first one he's done and he doesn't plan to do anymore.

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>>48136154

>Which mini is this?
Pic-related. Nearly finished basing the sucker!
Will post reverse in a second.

>Don't think it's his first mini, just his first Vostroyan
That's right! My first mini ever was a Silver Skulls marine from the combat squad box.

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>>48136304

Basing scheme will be wasteland with some scrub.

>>48135900
im aware. I shaved the mohawk off first so i should be able to get it in. Worst case i have to snap off the chest plate to get it in

>>48133204
I'll rate him a "makes me wish the FAQ didn't just nerf DE so I could start playing them"/10.

>>48135563
You need to indicate where you were at before the break though.

>>48136688
I don't have a record of that but it wasn't much better than the Rackham figure I posted.

>>48136739
Sorry I misread your post. Didn't realise you were the same person.

>>48136567
Oh, good. I did the same this on mine and still had a hard time. Needed to shave off most of the back side of the head I used.

>>48133686
Looks good so far.

Don't forget your moldlines and gun barrels.

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHA
TIME FOR DEATH

>>48137322
>Don't talk to me or my wife's son

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90% there

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>>48137448
w/ rocket launcher

>>48134550
Great stealth suit! Basically perfect camo job.

>>48137427
kek

>>48131622
It's part of a larger Speed Freeks army. It's gonna have a Big Mek with a KFF with a min squad of tankbustas, with 4 rokkits on the battlewagon itself. I think with the invuln save it'll be a fun little rokkit platform.

Other than that it'll be a nice show piece. I'm making a big vehicle-only Armies on Parade display on a dirt track with all my vehicles. This will be the only vehicle without any Orks operating it on the outside, so I'm gonna have it in a pit stop with a bunch of grots working on it while the buggies race around.

>>48137448
I like the open engine. Where's it from?

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My first fully completed mini. Dunno what to do with his eyes though. Any tips?

>>48138853
>fully completed
that blacktop base isn't very original, I'd suggest you try something else

>>48138853

Considering this is your first mini, this is very good. As suggested above, look into basing guides as with a good base this will be a good quality job overall.

The buckle in the middle looks a bit too bland, but that could be the photo. Might need a highlight.

>>48131576

I still hate the skull-bike-cannon, but rad regardless.

>>48133682
Their no where near finished until you have at least attempted the base

>>48138968
How do you highlight gold?

>>48139361

silver

>>48138853
Looks pretty spankin! Reminds me of Kongol from legend of dragoon.

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Still a complete beginner (my second miniature) but I'm really pleased with my WIP. Painting the teeth was both horrible and absolutely great!
Anything that should be improved?

I fucked the armor up half a year ago so there's no breastplate...

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Hey tg.
Just got back into 40k
Been dreaming up an idea for an inquisition army, heavily converted with empire bits. This is a Wip of a crusader.( Sorry about pic quality, can't use computer atm, had to take pic of screen.) What do you fatguys think? Wanna get feedback before I order the bits. Also, do you think a steam tank can be decently converted into a chimera?

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>>48130881
1st and one of recent things I've painted

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>>48139703
God damn phone
Hopefully this pic is upright

>>48138925
>>48138968

Not him, but I feel like I'm the only guy who actually prefers the look of solid black bases. I even think a black glossy effect would look nice. Makes the mini look like a showpiece or something.

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slowly working up my contemptor dreadnought to be chaosy arms are magnetized at the should and elbow for easy swapping of weapons still need a lot of work on the backside as well critiques so far?

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>>48139767
a bit better pic on the face/mouth/and ribcage coming out from the armor

>>48139643
you should learn stuff on smaller units, jumping staight for big dudes is not the best idea

>>48139807
I know but I really want to get the Bloodthirster finished before starting Warmahordes

>>48139717
Alright /wip/ time for a confession, I've painted maybe 30ish models and I still haven't based a single one, I'm not sure where to start.

Usually I'll assemble the model, glue it to the base, then prime and paint.

What order should I be doing this in if I want to base models? I have the basics to be basing them, static grass, sand etc. I'm just honestly completely lost as where to begin.

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I want to make a Nob for my Ork Kommandos that looks like Ahnold in pic related. Problem is, I don't know where to get a decent torso from.

Kromlech makes barechested ork torsos, but you buy them 6 at a time. And I suspect they're boy-sized, rather than Nob-sized. I've looked around for various fantasy-orc and barbarian minis that might work, but haven't really come up with anything good. Anyone have any ideas?

i do some base coats on the base as i basecoat the model, but leave the detail till the models finished. if you get a bit of paint on the feet of your model it's no problem since mud on the shoes of your dude is to be expected

>>48139703
>>48139735
Neat idea but why are you taking a pic of a computer screen with your phone?

>>48140339
Computer internet was down

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>>48130881
My first versus my most recent.

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First dudes I ever painted from 2008.

It's been a long, terrible road to get to acceptability.

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>>48140523
Then my most recent fellas

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>>48139881
I'll say what I do with bases.
Spread some pve glue on base and add some kork parts or sprues (if you go for junk base like pic rel). Then add some more glue and dip base in sand (i use regular sand I got form vacation in jar). After it dries, I brush paint it with black primer, then paint brown, add some washes and drybrush it with light brown or grey.
Add tufts of grass if you want.

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My first ever dude and a semi recent dude.

The original model probably gives away my age a bit...

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>>48140877
looks like this when finished

>>48137322
Sweet mould lines, i'll take a guess and say that it's a recast?

>>48141722
Not them; it could be, but forgeworld also tends to have a broad range of cast quality, which can include being as bad as finecast initially was.

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2 Vostroyan snipers I had begun at the start of the thread.

>>48142111

Straighten that barrel, dude.

>>48131576
Did you use a wash on their skin? It looks kinda flat and plain on some parts.

>>48134341
>US based

fuck it ;_; I'm not paying 50% of the minis price for shipping.

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION

Oh dear lord! I feel like 'Carlos - here to punish you'. These are from the late 1970's and early 80's. (Don't blame me - this was all OP's idea...)

These are Lord of the Rings Orcs - by Heritage Miniatures (IIRC - but I'm not 100% certain.) No matter who made them, they're some of the most 'Craptacular' minis I own.

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>>48142478
The one on the left (in white) is definitely a Heritage Mini. The 'shiny' Monk in the middle is an old Ral Partha mini - and I have no idea who make the one on the right.

>>48142201
But then he'll be aiming at the back of the other dude's head.

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>>48142499
And perhaps the most 'Craptastic' Troll and Hobgoblin minis ever - again by Heritage. (The hilarious part is that they offered 'Prepainted' minis that looked worse than my paint jobs if such a thing is imaginable. It was like they hired blind epileptics to do the painting.)

Eye-bleach not included.

>>48138853
>first miniature
> FIRST
Anon I sense a bright future ahead of you

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>>48142536
And of course - one of my favorites for 'WTF minis'... Pic related.

>>48142111
When I roll to hit he's the one who missed.

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Sup /wip/

I was planning to do up my eldar something like this. However after doing so I wasn't really happy with it in a general sense. Considering some other schemes, maybe less busy but I've always been absolute shit at choosing colors.

Any suggestions onsome something that would also look good on Dark Eldar, Corsairs, and Harlequins in addition to craftworlder?

>>48142594
know what u mean, models painted like this look great individually but lack uniformity and because of this don't look as good on the field.

do you want a combined force of Dark Eldar, Craftworld, Corsairs and Harlequins?

>>48140882
>before and after
Man, with that paint scheme it looks like a totally different mini, well done.

>>48142668
The plan is for a "craftworld" that had their craftworld destroyed and straddle the line between the different Eldar Factions being a mostly Fleet-based groups of Raiders.

Tabletop wise I'd be running a lot of Alldar.

The idea was the Nebulae paint-job would work with that narrative but I had them sitting all painted up for a week and a half and just kept looking at them and not liking how they looked so I tossed them into the striping bucket and am currently thinking about what I could do.

>>48138853
For a first mini that's pretty astounding, but that's far from complete. Try carefully highlighting flesh and fix that black furr

>>48142732
you could go for a standard bright coloured theme but with heavy weathering to go with the narrative, it would be somewhat unusual for an eldar army and might work well.

>>48142594
>Sir...we don't know were we parked the fire prism...I think it was after that second asteroid but I can't see it

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>>48130881
>got guy on left for 50 cents a model
>got guy on right for 6 dollars a model
How times changed

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>>48140320
>I want to make a Nob for my Ork Kommandos that looks like Ahnold in pic related.

>What did you do with Sully?
>I let him go.

>Kromlech makes barechested ork torsos, but you buy them 6 at a time. And I suspect they're boy-sized, rather than Nob-sized. I've looked around for various fantasy-orc and barbarian minis that might work, but haven't really come up with anything good. Anyone have any ideas?

Find a recaster who can make you one of the many Thrud the Barbarian miniatures to cut up.

Anyone have pics of the new GW dwarf kits (longbeards, ironbreakers, etc), in more dynamic poses? I want to start an army for AOS, but they look so static.

>>48142751
Yeah the flesh I'm not too thrilled with. I'm surprised at how difficult it is to cover smoothly.

What can I do to fix the fur?

>>48142478
>>48142499
>>48142536
>>48142557


Nice minis, grandpa.

Does the last guy have a dick and balls hanging out

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Huh... our guys in India are off today for the Ratha Yatra festival. The English word "juggernaut" originates from "Jagannath", referring to the massive, unstoppable "ratha" (chariot) bearing the idol of Lord Jaggannath.

Who says /tg/ can't be both fun *and* educational?

>>48138853
>>48143541
The flesh isn't bad at all. You could use a darker wash in some of the recessed areas to create a stronger illusion of greater depth and muscle tone. As for the fur, don't go mono black / gray. You could easily mix in some other colors like a warm dark blue or even some of the warm reds in the cloth to make the fur and his hair a bit more 'life-like'. Very few things in nature are truly jet black or pure white. The horn on the skull on his left shoulder might look a bit better if you repeated some of the warm tone of the skull in the highlights on the horn rather than that flat gray for example.

>>48138853
Jesus fucking christ. We have a messiah.

>>48143232
>Find a recaster
Why? Heresy sells various versions of him regularly.

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>>48143694
>Does the last guy have a dick and balls hanging out

Indeed - he has 'freed willy'! (You have to wonder about who took the time to sculpt a tiny set of junk on mini like that...)

At least I got a little better at painting over the years.

>>48139767
>>48139780

Looking great!
I feel like laybe the right leg could use some battle damage or bones/tentacles/mutations sprouting out of it, since it's so straight, its lack of features shows.

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>>48144143
>You have to wonder about who took the time to sculpt a tiny set of junk on mini like that...

Maybe it was his job to do so.

>>48140882
I've seen your Chaos Chosen several times, love it every time.

>>48144143
Those blue weapons go surprisingly well woth the color scheme. The comissar is gorgeous as well, although I don't recognise the mini.

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Well Im just going to call it quits.
In my opinion they look fine from the back so when I play them at least Ill be happy

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>>48139881
>Alright /wip/ time for a confession, I've painted maybe 30ish models and I still haven't based a single one, I'm not sure where to start.
>Usually I'll assemble the model, glue it to the base, then prime and paint.
>What order should I be doing this in if I want to base models? I have the basics to be basing them, static grass, sand etc. I'm just honestly completely lost as where to begin.

You *could* go back through and flock them all now. This has the advantage of making the bases in your army uniform, but honestly? It's really lazy and doesn't look that good.

For fancier bases, I normally put the solid basing material (rocks, sand, cork, etc.) on the base, glue the bottom of the model to it, and prime both in one go. You can leave the base sitting in its basecoat while you do the remainder of the model, and finish it up (highlights, drybrushing, static grass/tufts/foliage) as you're putting the finishing touches on the model itself.

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>>48144363
There's just a hint of blue in the 'Settler's Gray' of their uniforms that helps give them a cohesive look. As for the commissar, it's an early one from the RT era. It was designed to use the old (OLD) plastic IG arms - the right arm is one of them, and the left arm is an old Beakie powerfist. An old marine backpack was added too. Here's a slightly better shot of him as part of a lighting image I did for a friend.

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>>48144363
>The comissar is gorgeous as well, although I don't recognise the mini.

You might not be old enough. It's a First Edition Commissar ("Commissar 4", part #072117/10) with a plastic Second Edition Space Marine power fist.

>>48144475
Bingo! Well done. Your eye is spot on. :) I wish I had a bunch of the old RT era 40K / WFB beast men and the old Penal Legion Troops. They weren't always the most detailed minis, but they had character.

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>>48144547
>I wish I had a bunch of the old RT era 40K / WFB beast men

Decades ago, when you could still ring up the cheery ladz in Notts and pay them over the phone with a credit card for individual models and bitz, I ordered a Beastman Packmaster (among other things).

He's the one on the left in this picture.

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>>48139881
>What order should I be doing this in if I want to base models?

I actually do it a bit different that most folks I'd guess. I do much the same as you - I glue the mini (often minis arms and/or head which I paint seperately) to the base, and once I have the mini primed, and base colored - I'll add in the basing. Where I differ from a lot of folks is that I don't use sand and PVA. I've actually got a glass jar where I mixed my base green acrylic color and added sand along with an agent to slow the acrylic drying process. So when I put down my green base I'm also texturing the base at the same time. I can then add some darker green spots using a more liquid dark green. After that a quick dry brushing with some light green and the base looks table top ready from a short distance. (Mini on the right). After that it's just a matter of adding flocking / static grass / small stones, and other details as desired.

>>48144399
The models look fine but I don't really like the brown colour you've chosen, to me, it doesn't really look like it fits in with the rest of the scheme.

>>48144765
Tried to make a dark maroon to a dark red but I fucked the transition and mixing and it was more brown than red

>>48144073
Is it really that difficult for people? All i did was watch a couple of videos and follow their steps.

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I recently came into possession of this guy and I wanted to build him but I can't stand how goofy the Manticore looks. Are there any other mounts that the Chaos Lord would look good on?

>>48140320
You could make him boy sized but make him more boss looking another way. Being a kommando maybe he isn't as big but way more kunnin.

>>48140882
Haha hey khorne bro. I started with those same dudes myself. I've got a neon pink one.

>>48145112
Yeah, most newbies are idiots or kids. Slap paint on shit and only then ask questions. Not like you can't learn almost anything on YouTube now days.

>>48145324
I still struggle with paint consistency, and covering with smooth layers of paint that covers poorly. Like gold metallics and lighter colors. Idk how to fix this.

>>48145465
>gold metallics
paint over a brown basecoat

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If tournaments have WYSIWYG, if you have a Stalker Pattern Bolter, it should be an easy "Counts as Bolter" or "Counts as Sniper Rifle", right? Although the this monstrosity was made out of a scout's shotgun and Bolt pistol arm parts, how would it do?

>>48145465
You may want to try thinning your metallics with a medium rather than water. I use water with gold/silver myself, but getting the right consistency can be tricky. I usually thin it to the point where the paint wont stick, then add a tiny bit of paint straight from the pot to thicken it to the point where it works well.

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Two more deathwatch done.

A son of antaeus, and a black dragon.

>>48145530
>Stalker Pattern Bolter
Does anybody besides that one Special Character (I think Telion, but I could be wrong) actually use it?
Also I would use Stub Gun with extended barrel, because that's what sniper rifle is.

>>48145609
That SoA has been through some shit by the look of it.

>>48137427
Underrated as fuck.

>>48145530
Honestly just chuck a scope on a bolter and itll look fine. Or buy the sternguard kit which have bolters with scopes and straps as well.

>>48131975
I got the joke anon. Don't worry

>>48131481
get retribution. it got all the factions.

and it still gets played a lot.

>>48140877
>>48144421
>>48144740

Thanks for all the advice guys, I live near a beach so getting some different sizes of sand should be easy enough. I think I'm going to try >>48144421 's method of adding all the things to the base, attaching the model and priming all in one go. I assume I paint the bottom like I would the model, base coat, highlight etc.

My last question is what do I do about models with that large sprue on the bottom that's meant to be slotted into the base? For that matter what do I do about bases with a large slot in them? Fill it with greenstuff, tape over it, something else?

>>48138853
How did you paint the flesh?

>>48145997
Bugmans glow, then one light layer of cadian fleshtone. Washed with reikland flesh shade and then another two thin coats of cadian.

>>48139735
I like it!

>>48146051
Thank you good anon.

>>48145964
>I think I'm going to try >>48144421 's method of adding all the things to the base, attaching the model and priming all in one go.
I'm a different guy, but I do it the same way. I like to add a coat of thinned down wood glue or whatever else you are using to flock the base in the first place before priming though, just to be sure everything stays on the base.

>I assume I paint the bottom like I would the model, base coat, highlight etc.
Pretty much.
Some people who do their bases after priming just ink/wash unpainted sand and drybrush that.
You can also get dyed deco sand from ikea, which makes painting it a little quicker.
There's really no hard and fast rule. If you want to do asphalt basing you could cast some plaster, smash it and glue that down on your base. Really depends on what you are going for.

Some people use unpainted coffee grounds for earth for example.

>My last question is what do I do about models with that large sprue on the bottom that's meant to be slotted into the base?
Make sure it fits into the base (sometimes they are bent or a little to large/thick) and then use it to superglue your mini to the base.
If you don't want the mini flat on the base just snip if off with a pair of pliers and pin the mini to the base.

>For that matter what do I do about bases with a large slot in them? Fill it with greenstuff, tape over it, something else?
These are all viable methods. If you use a kind of tape that you can glue other stuff on it's fine to just add a strip of tape and then continue as you would usually.
You can use putty to close the gaps too. It's a little more expensive if you do that for an entire army though. Sometimes filling the gap with putty and then inserting the slotta into the base helps if the tab is too thin for the mini to be properly fixed to the base.
Personal preference I guess.

>>48145964
>>48146172
oh yeah and in case I missed the point of your last question about the slotta bases, once you inserted the mini to the base the gap should be filled.
If the top is a little uneven or there are some small holes the glue and sand are usually enough to fill those gaps.
If you really have a big gap on there you might have to fall back on the other methods, but generally speaking you won't have a lot of extra work with slotta bases.

>>48146172
Yeah I'm not quite sure what kind of basing I want just yet. Luckily the model count is very low, only 6, I guess I just need to decide on a theme.

The "army" is a Fisherman's guild ball team so I can take it in a few different directions. Right now I'm leaning towards either a dock or maybe a beach, if I did the beach though I'd probably want to try and get some water effects on there as well and that's a whole new can of worms.

>>48144470
How did you get the greys on their uniforms?

>>48146346
The gray base color is called 'Settler's Blue' it's a pale warm blue-gray color. I spray primed everything a neutral gray, base coated in Settler's Blue, then did a wash in a warm reddish brown (sepia). Once that was dry, I hit the gray areas again lightly with plain Settler's Blue and then did a very light dry brushing with Settler's mixed with a lighter warm gray. (I try to avoid just adding white to colors as it doesn't make them 'lighter' - just more washed out and pastel looking.)

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>>48146315
For that I'd really recommend looking at vallejo's product range.

Their textured paints range has a sand past, that is very fine and you can sculpt it to some degree.
And they have a watereffect that you just have to squeeze out of the bottle. You can dye it with pigment or paint as well if you like.

If you are going to do the whole water on the base thing you should have a look at this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjKx08dpkzo
Hollowing out the bases is a way better approach than trying to build a resin proof barrier around your base with tape or something like that.

For the dock idea I'd just start collecting coffee stirrers (you can get a box of 2000 for 5 bucks or so too).

>>48145617

Apparently, my Blood Ravens have.. procured some Stalker Pattern Bolters.

>>48144399
Any possible ways I can improve this outside of stripping?

>>48146812
It's a little hard to see details in your latest pic, but I did see one of your earlier shots.

> Any possible ways I can improve this outside of stripping?

Hell yes. You don't have to waste all of your current work. Investing in a few decent fine detail brushes and then taking good care of them can help you sharpen up a lot of the small details. With practice you'll get even better at fine detail. (A couple of tips: One - don't jam your brush into the paint up to the ferrule {metal collar} keep the paint flowing like ink and smoothly brush it on, regularly cleaning out the brush with water before continuing to paint. Paint drying in the bristles near the ferrule is what destroys a lot of paint brushes. Two - clean out your brush with good brush clear to remove any leftover paint at the end of each painting session. Taking good care of a quality brush can get your years / decades of good service out of them.) So you can easily go in and add highlights, fine details etc. You mentioned you weren't happy with the back carapace armor color. Try glazing. You can put very thin layers of color on top of it to slow change the color towards the one you want without putting thick layers of crud on top and losing all your details and previous work.

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>>48147184
Forgot my pic for the brush cleaner...

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>>48147184
And they make both gloss and Satin finish glazing products to mix with your target paint color. Just make sure you let each glaze layer dry completely before attempting to put on the next. Also realize that it will be better to put on more thin layers and slowly modify the color than on thick layer that can obscure the details underneath.

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>>48147213
>>48147184
I just got my hands on this yesterday, have yet to try it. Will this suffice?
How do I make a glazee? I have some lahmian medium and khorne red and Id suppose brighten the red is the first step.
Thanks a lot for the input, ill try to invest in some better brushes. I use an army paint detail brush and some artist brushes from Michaels (arts and craft store)

Working on a vehicle for GorkaMorka.

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>>48147310
Forgot pic.

>>48147288
works well for me

>>48147321
needs more damage on the hull itself.

>>48146642
Vallejo's stuff is OK if you're just toing small quantities, but if you're doing entire armies you're better off looking for textured artist's gels. It's the same stuff, but uncolored; cheaper by quantity (you can buy it by the tub, if you really need that much).

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Guardian greenstuffed to be similar to the new genestealer hybrids, to act as a juve for my upcoming Van Saar gang.

This greenstuff didn't exactly come out as I wanted it, but overall I think it's pretty okay. Gonna go for a much brighter colour scheme for the proper Van Saar, though.

>>48138853
Poor Hathrek, the Silver Tower book ending was sad.

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Finished the first layer of highlights on my Tzaangor (Ungors) skin.
Now on the the second half (the Gors).

>>48144106
That's Boris fampai

>>48148296
Smurf's less known mean cousins.

>>48147288
>How do I make a glaze?

Glazes are simply multiple thin layers of semi-transparent paint. The glaze mediums you can by are acrylic binder without any paint pigment. By mixing in small amounts of color you make a mostly transparent glaze. Applied slowly in layers it starts to change the appearance of the colors under the glaze.

As for the soap - if it's designed for paint brushes, it's probably OK. Natural hair brushes (like expensive sable brushes) need to have the paint removed, but you don't want to strip out all the natural oils, etc from the bristles with anything really harsh. I've seen artists actually use hair condition on natural hair brushes after cleaning them to help extend the brush's working life span. You probably don't have to go that far - just don't clog the brush with paint while you're working, and clean out the brush well before putting it away when done painting.

>>48144475
>human bomb
Well, that's one unit type I can understand getting squatted.

>>48148320
Okay I admit I never actually read the comics in WD, but he looks pretty much identical to me.
So for conversion fodder he should be good enough, right?

>>48148330
haha that is what I was thinking while painting them.

Is it possible to use heat to straighten resin after priming and painting it?
The sword on my Fulgrim model is slightly bent after a couple of months of inactivity since he was built, primed and basecoated, and I wouldn't be happy if he isn't perfect.

I don't mind repriming and painting the sword, as long as it's straight and the paint doesn't melt into goo.

>>48148353
Thanks a lot mang

Corvus Hammers on Death Company counts-as power mauls.

Anyone have a problem with this?

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>>48130881
Post my first mini? Okay then.

>>48148761
Not bad at all, just remember to mix your paint with water on a pallette or something before painting and don't use too much of it. Better paint the same spot twice than slap tons of paint and lose details.

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>>48148353
Wow this actually works.
Red is actually more pleasing to look at.
Just need to neaten up and I'm set, thanks again!
Left is glazed, right isnt

Thread theme song
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SUC8vTEYYg

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>>48148864
Yeah, this is the latest one I've done. I haven't had time to work on them though. Plus it's pretty hot outside, so I'll meed to work on the rest of the models then wait til it's cooler outside to spray them with primer.

>>48149347
why does everyone look short fat and pudgy with giant feet in the 41st millennium?

>>48131168
Sorry I can't really tell what it looks like through that frosted lens.

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My first ever minis; some old school Bauhaus Venusian Rangers for Warzone.

Christ, I painted these things like 19 years ago now. While I'm certainly not the best painter in the world, I can say I feel I've gotten at least better than what I was doing with these guys.

>>48149384
"heroic scale"

>>48149260
>Warseer national anthem

>>48149450
have any non-heroic scale space marines been created? not by gw obviously.

But if everything in 40k is heroic scale, then the armor we see on space marines is fatter than it should be.

>>48149561
lmgtfy "true scale space marine"

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>>48148430
Neither did I, think I'm a bit young to have seen comics in WD. Here's Boris, should suit your purpose pretty well.

>>48149698
not sure what you are after, but there is a guy that sells garage kits to convert action figures.

Aside from that true scale is kind of a relative term.
The height mods as you call them operate under the assumption that they are true to scale in relative terms to the rest of the range.

A regular gw model would be true in scale relative to a 25mm model. So there's that.

Just for keks, I think I need to make a squad of 2nd edition plastic space marines. Already have five of 'em regular old bolter boys and a missile launcher, didn't the paint set have a sergeant, three more bolter dudes and a flamer?

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Left: the first mini I did, maybe four or five months ago? The two orks are the most recent.

>>48151492
>Left

RIGHT. The Battlemech. Duh.

>>48147730
I really like the looks of this

>>48131238

>Should I scratch out the details on the sides of the container and replace them with orky glyphs, or just leave the details on and paint them rusted over?

How about a mix of both? One or two blasted off with battle damage, a couple obviously ignored, and maybe a couple that have been deliberately defaced?

With my Deathskulls, I tend to put blue "face paint" on their various decorative skulls.

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>>48149561
Scale 75 have the Ares in their KS game Fallen Frontier. They are humanoid space marine types in 35mm.

>>48151492
The mech looks better

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Does this look like a decent Tau paint scheme? I'm looking for something similar to this.

>>48148720
opinions?

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Finished the brokk riders. There are some fuckups, some moldlines, and some smudges but im happy enough with them for the tabletop. Trying to keep up the pace and get my 2k of dwarves painted in the next month.

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>>48148720
>Corvus Hammers on Death Company counts-as power mauls.
>Anyone have a problem with this?

They shouldn't.

>>48152675
>opinions?

'Ere's wot da roolz 'az to say about power weapons:

>If a model's wargear says it has a power weapon which has no further special rules, look at the model to tell which type of power weapon it has: if it's a sword or a dagger, it's a power sword; if it's an axe or halberd, it's a power axe; if it's a blunt weapon like a mace or staff, it's a power maul; if it's a spear or lance, it's a power lance.

Seems to me that while there are specific roolz governing the use of corvus hammers by certain Dark Angels models, in the hands of anybody else, they should fall under the "blunt weapon" category, and hence count as a power maul. They really don't look like swords, axes, or spears, and aren't big enough to count as thunder hammers.

>>48152280
It looks like a horrendous colour scheme for anything

>>48147321
If you can, it would be greatly improved by removing the hood and putting in a stupid big engine that is half out of the hood.

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>>48153004
>If you can, it would be greatly improved by removing the hood and putting in a stupid big engine that is half out of the hood.

It would remind me of another loud obnoxious green dude whose engine hangs half out of its hood.

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AWAKEN MY EMPEROR

Some stuff I still need to do but for now I'm pleased well enough

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>>48147321
>>48147418
>>48153004
liek dis?

>>48145609
>"Eh? Ehh? Come on bro."
>"Shut up, I will not 'pound it'."

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Do you guys use any 3rd party bases for your models? Looking at possibly picking up some for a khorne demonkin army.

Ancient Sands from secret weapons minis possibly

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>>48145530
Sniper rifle scopes laid out over the top of the bolter with the muzzle shroud cut down and put over the muzzle of the bolter.
Just remember the irony of cutting up sniper rifles to make sniper rifles.

>>48154588
Those look nice.
I've been looking for third party forest bases but searches have been fruitless

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>>48150101
No, the paint set had a monopose tactical and a chaos warrior; you're probably thinking of the 2 tactical squads that came in the 2nd edition box, they were outfitted as you described.

>>48154588
Damn I wish there selection of 30mm was better, that being said what they're putting out is great

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about to finish up my hand sculpted slaanesh chaos spawn I think its playable at least nees some more blending and details.

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>>48156116
with mark

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Weathered versions of either of these two?

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I need an angel mini, recommendations?

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Wip of my wip army, Raven Guard

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>>48156164

>>48156147
i was going to paint mine like this until i couldn't find dark purple spray and later decided i didn't want Tau

>>48156147
I'd simplify it. Keep the purple fatigues, but pick either powder blue or hot pink for the armour. Then just do a few its or pieces as the other color.

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>>48156177

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Starting with the armor today, only a few days until I'm finally finished after assembling the model half a year ago

>>48156147
again, no

>>48156116
haha great, but I still would have preferred eye boobs

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>Really good at painting
>Can make armour and skin look good
>Try to paint a face
>Paints turn to chalk on my brush


Every fucking time

Kill me

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>clean and assemble 10 bloodletters
>now need to do 10 more
>then another 6 for my bloodcrushers
I'll paint, someday.

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So, I'm planning on trying to make a miniature that is inspired by the King in Yellow, basically pic.

I'm not sticking to it 100%, but I want the basic pose(arms outstretched, draped robes, etc)

My question comes in about the robes: I've never done full body robe work on a model before, I've just done some tabard stuff for marines and the like. Should I use the same methods and materials(greenstuff) for full robes, especially the hanging sleeves off the arms? Or is there another, better way of doing it?

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Im making a Blood Pact witch diorama ( blood pact are from the gaunts ghosts series). She'll be standing over a pool of boiling blood. And her hand will be split open like she's slowly transforming into a daemon.

>>48156863
those are some sick IG

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>>48156546
Kill me

>>48156546
give him a helmet or just get over it anon. It looks fine imo, face is great, hair is a bit weird tho.

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gargoyles are the most annoying low pts models to paint
prove me wrong

>>48157005
You went for a Skrillex/Eidolon copycat, but you got a middle-aged man with a poorly attached toupée.

>>48157213
I could mount an argument for goblins/grots given you have to expend any effort for something worth 2-3 points.

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Just finished this. Am I going to get laughed off the table for my painting, or just the conversion?

Also, should I add a glow effect on the swirl in the middle of the chest too? And I considered adding clump foliage to the branches on the shoulders/ back but I'm not sure if that's a good idea or not.

>>48157213
they were when they were metal

Plastic tyranids are pretty relaxing to paint though, I can breeze through a unit of thirty in no time at all. It's things like marines that drag on forever because of all the highlighting.

>>48156863
where did you get those heads?

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION

>>48157395
I like the conversion. The colors are a little too bright though. I'd probably put some agrax over the whole thing.

>>48157395
Excellent

>>48157522
Thank you. I actually did agrax it, the browns at least. I Biel-tan washed the greens. Did I just over do it with the highlights?

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>>48130881
>POST YOUR FIRST MINI EDITION

That warrior on the left.

>>48157693
mind showing some more angles? It looks awesome!

>>48157740
of that first warrior I painted? Or my Tyranid Prime conversion in the middle?

>>48157793
big Prime conversion!

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>>48157904
This is what I've got of him. Glad you think he looks awesome, thank you.

>>48157005
haha oh man... that is bad.

his face looks stupidly big too.

Armour looks great, however.

>>48156863
already looks like a diorama. You've got all those IG posing for a photo shoot in the front with some bitch, and in the background you've got some madman running full speed toward the bunch to start murdering.

>>48157917
That Tau nearly made me blind

>>48156863
he's a big guy

>>48157005
I told you not to do it.

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Does anyone have any tips on sculpting hands with green stuff? I want to bulk this guys hands up a bit.

>>48157496
Not him, but they look like harlequins to me.

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my recently painted heroes for SDE

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and some more of them

>>48157496
There's all sorts in there, looks like harlequins and dark elf executioner masks make up the majority.

>>48157213
fuck you

it's boyz

all the fucking details on their armour
metal panels, straps, shirts, undershirts, leather armour, belts, fetishes like bullets and skulls hanging off them

i shouldnt have to do this many details for a fucking mob unit

>>48158327
dat ass

>>48158362
this git got it right

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>>48158378
gobbos is much more better ta paint coz dem boyz is simple

>>48158362
100% this. Orks probably have the most detailed infantry in the game.

>>48156863
I like it.

theres a bloodwitch character in Blood Pact, but she's dressed as a widow in a tattered black dress (and blood stains), with a veil covering her lack of face ( I think she has a giant sucking hole for a face or something equally horrifying)

>>48156546
I'm on the other side of the line - I can do skin really well, but armor never looks good for me.

>>48158380
Pretty cool, but more work needs to be done to disguise his shoes.

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>>48158539

Yeah, I haven't started "armoring" them yet. I'll put a bunch of chopped-up plates around the edge of the soles. And I think I'm gonna copy the original Tater Titan and actually keep the stripes and laces--but give them a bit of the plates-and-rivets treatment too.

And just for due credit, the original that I'm ripping off is from http://www.irondogstudios.com/images/tater/mek_tater.html

>>48158380

You're not going to like this, but I think the jaw is too flimsy and doesn't stick out enough from the surface of the potato. It needs to be a great, hefty thing in order to give it the right orky appearance, like >>48158592

>>48158592
oh... its been done already...

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>>48158652
A few times.

>>48158592
The armour plates around the shoes really help with the overall look, especially since it mirrors the boots on the ork boys. I also think you should add extra details to the body armour plates (like you've already done on the crotch door) to make it look more like a ramshackle machine. Looking good so far though!

>>48144143
Glorious paintjob famalam.

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>>48158696
Another good one

>>48158717

Once all the main work is done, there is going to be so much riveting...

So much.

>>48158753

I don't envy you at all... Make sure you post pictures when it's all done.

>>48148401
nice face masks

>>48158742
that one is the best one because it doesn't actually look like a mister potato-head, atleast not as much as the other ones.

>>48158823
defeats the purpose a bit though, don't you think?

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>>48130881
Not my "first" minis, but my first infinity models

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>>48158823
Yeah, but I bet that one doesn't have a secret grot entrance on its behind.

>>48156158
>unironically playing anime sluts

>>48154611
So, explain to me what the silencer is supposed to do when the barrels have flash suppressors/compensators before them.

>>48158984
They tell the machine spirit in the bolt round to keep it down a little.

>>48158928
where are they from?