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WIP/Painting Thread

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Thread replies: 330
Thread images: 97

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>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed] [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed] [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed] [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Ventilate, motherfucker
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

I'll do it tomorrow edition
>>
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I have no idea what I'm doing, but I dig it.
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It's saging, but the previous thread (>>48009226) is still only on page 8.

First time using loose Citadel static grass instead of Army Painter tufts. I officially prefer the appearance of the latter.
>>
Is the weapon turret base for the drop pod the same size as the turret base of the razorback? Looks like it from photos, but I don't have either kit to test.
>>
>>48036019
Gamergrass is the best I've found, I think it was £17 for 5 big sheets of varied tuft sizes fairly tightly packed on.
>>
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Reposting TACTICAL ladders.
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>>48036127
Wait no, it was 7 sheets. Forgot I bought some daft ones I've not used yet, like wintery grass and blobs of moss.
>>
Black armor, should I leave it as is after the primer and go straight to Highlight or should I do something to it. Going for a matte look to up the intimidation factor.
I hope the inevitable Deathwatch Codex allows me to take Terminators
>>
>>48036281
I'd at least blend a little dark grey in at the lighter areas.
>>
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>>48036281
I go for a rough highlight, wash with black and maybe do some touch ups (that highlight can be a bit rougher than I'd like), then highlight the edges a slightly lighter grey. But honestly it depend on your style so experiment!
>>
>>48036300
Okay.
How do I blend?
>>
>>48036446
Thin paint, apply a small amount, swap to a moist brush, brush the edge of the paint into the direction you want to blend.

I learned from this, actually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cw6QjE2a7A0

Just give it a few tries on sprue before you accidentally your models.
>>
How do I paint a nice metallic purple like this? It's for my space marines. Do I have to custom blend?
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Needs a little cleanup, but do you guys thing this power maul looks alright?
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Just finished these two bad boys. Was enjoyable to paint if anything.
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My recently finished Stormhawks
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>>48038445
How embarrassing.
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The super structure of a 1/700th scale USS Missouri battleship. These brass etch details will be the death of me.
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>>48038533
Going to do the details and bases?
>>
>>48038500
The model looks very nice to me, only a few things irk me.

The black is very clean, but perhaps they're too clean. I'd do some more highlights and then sponge on some Leadbelcher for a weathered effect.

I'd also do some highlighting with Runefang Steel on the guns. They look a tad boring to me at the moment.

Otherwise its a good work.
>>
>>48038548
>>48038557
That looks sweet. I met an officer who used to serve aboard the Missouri. Keep up the good work.
>>
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>>48038560
Was just having fun with drybrushing and highlighting. Debating leaving them like that (it's just those two purestrains in Deathwatch) or actually try and make them look like normal 40k models.
>>
>>48035992
I-I dig it too. More.
>>
>>48038003
I think the head of the maul looks too small. If it was just a wee bit bigger I think it would look fabulous.
>>
>>48038500
I like the missiles! But.. something about the white on the cockpit seems off. I don't know how to put it into words but it just feels off.
>>
>>48038003
god, as much as I love the Chaos Lord kit, I really wish GW would release a new one.
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Suggestions for a decent set of paint brushes?
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>>48035992
>>48038770

Something beautiful is happening.
Magnetised the weapon wrists for changing up load-outs. INQ28 in mind.
>>
>>48039001

It's like you didn't even try to look for yourself.
>>
Is there any single piece more awkward to paint than Marine powerpacks?
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Renegade Heavy Mortars 1/2
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>>48039582
Renegade Heavy Mortars 2/2

Nice kit to work on. Always loved field artillery.
>>
>>48039063
>>48035992
This is great. Make an army of these.
>>
>>48036019
the last 4 pictures are the same
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>>48039671
this board is a joke
>>
>>48038533
>How embarrassing

Id say whats embrrassing isbthe dact you said they were done.
>>
>>48039336
Not him. But I never know what to get. Like I have two brushes I can't live without but everytime I try for another it just doesn't work.
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>>48039883
It's not a very good one if it is.
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>>48035992
Dark eldar commissar?

I can't wait to see how this progresses.
>>
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Progress on ghazghkull and killa kan, both still wip, killa kan more so. Going for the last few touch up and detail passes on the warboss, taking any critique and advice.
>>
>>48040683

Faggy hat = eldar
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>>48037725
Some have luck with painting bright silver base and then layering coloured washes on top.
>>
>>48040860
Snazzy, might use som contrast bits though, little blue/green/purple for cables or summat, try and do a shoop before you put brush to model though.
>>
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Anyone have clever ideas on how to magnetize the wings on my Demon Prince?

Is it doable/worth the effort?
>>
>>48041373

You could've magnetized the whole wing assembly but it looks to be quite stuck in there already
>>
>>48041418
Naw, just poster putty.
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>>48037725
Warcolours has a purple metallic but it might be a little lighter than that.
>>
>>48039586
>>48039582
Fucking nice, but how do they load it? Kinda tall.
>>
>>48041724
They likely aren't loaded from the top, but rather the back/bottom.
>>
Finished assembling and priming most of these models, the Scion will be the first up to be painted. I put them on inserts larger than the insides of the bases partially because the bloodwretches and their splayed out poses make them a hard fit.
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>>48041724
>>48041853
>>
>>48041905
>>48041853
Ah ok, for a second I thought they had to climb to the top of the mortar and throw it down
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>>48041880
>Primer is gritty and uneven
>>
>>48041937
This is my greatest fear. That during advanced modelling I will ruin months of work because of shitty primer.
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Hey guys,

After years and years of painting with only brushes, I'm jumping into airbrushes.

What basics do I need? Can I use my current GW paints? I hear I can just thin them down with Windex.

I'm really coming in blind here.
>>
>>48041978
Yay for Nurgle.
Gritty? Naw it's a bad rash
stray hair? Yup
Gone on too thick? Flesh oozing like wax.
>>
>>48041937
>>48041978
Yeah that sucks hard. I've managed to save some badly primed models by dry brushing them (literally, no paint) before the primer had really cured. Helped cut down the dust.
>>
>>48038500
did you attempt marble instead of plain white? If so, it's interesting, not quite there, but a cool idea.
>>
>>48039586
do you have a blog? I swear I already saw this this morning.
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>>48042063
Aye. I did that too with a few metal orks I had lying around. The basecoat turned out dusty so I vigorously brushed the largest particles off with a large brush and painted over any scratches with a brush.
>>
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>>48036135
I see some of them are crooked and think pic related.
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Not sure what this will be, but any feedback on what to add?

Was thinking more blades along the spine
>>
>>48040683
OP here,
I feel like she's a dire avenger whom fell away from her craftworld and joined an inquisitor. She has kept antique parts of her equipment because I spose she's most effective with it, but now uses imperium equipment in place of damaged or lost aspect gear.
...or some writefaggotry like that.
>>
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My first finished paint job. It could be better but I like the color scheme. What details am I missing?
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>>48039336
Why do you say that?

Should I have used different words to ask the question? I'd course I've looked around, but I was hoping for opinions from /tg/ to explore or direct me in what I've seen.
>>
>>48038792
Do you think it's because of the larger block directly underneath it? Would it help if I shaved it down some?
>>
>>48042535

Tentacle Grape/10

bonus points for white cloth and blue-metal tentacles
>>
>>48042661

Windsor & newtons is what you want, but you can find cheaper ones on aliexpress
>>
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Took /tg/s advice and I think it turned out well
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>>48042796

before for comparison
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>>48041373
I think you're looking at your own solution; glue magnets to the backpack, then sculpt sockets around them.
>>
>>48042041
Windex contains ammonia. Ammonia eats chrome. Airbrushes are covered in chrome. Don't use windex.
>>
has anyone got examples of the technique where you paint layers over silver actually working? As I'm about to try it and I have no idea if I'll do it well
>>
>>48042994
which technique exactly? Are you trying to coat the silver or let it shine through like when painting a gem?
>>
>>48042994
Just make sure it's a wash/ink, or a regular paint diluted heavily with medium.
>>
>>48042535
Spikes along the back, like spines. Possibly add pieces of tattered cloth or something else to make that back slightly more interesting.

But by the Omnissiah, that's cool.
>>
>>48043031
Letting it shine through, I was going for
>>
A few pics I got shot of my Khador.

I like red. A lot.
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>>48043154
>>
>>48043213
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>>48042550
Ya did good anon.

My only real criticism is a lack of highlighting. I can see some highlights, but thin, sharp, bright edge highlights really help with models. Going over the edge of the gold and metal parts with bright gold/steel would really make them pop.

Also, the red is very flat and could use a lot of attention. With a couple layers of increasingly brighter red but over smaller and smaller areas you could make that haft and that topknot really pop, but at the moment they just kinda look dark and boring.
>>
>>48042041
What brush are you starting with? Iwata Eclipse is still my most used brush and a great starter.

I dont use Citadel paints for airbrush, Ive had problems with clogs when there shouldnt have been. Start building a collection of Vallejo is my advice regarding paints.

Cleaning and troubleshooting will be your biggest obstacles. Ive been airbrushing models for about 3 years, and cleaning is priority #1. I cant stress this enough.

Watch some cleaning tutorials for whatever brush you buy. Take extreme care with the needle. Always assume theres dried paint in the tip if you are getting a bad spray. Disassemble and clean often.

Not all colors are equal. Some will require more thinning than others. Its a trial and error thing. You'll have sone growing pains, but its gonna be worth it.
>>
>>48043154
yay non GW in WIP. i paint both gw and warmahordes so good to see some variety. great looking army man
>>
>>48043381
cheers man. I paint up both myself as well, but /tg/ loves GW so hard
>>
>>48043450
Have you considered adding a bit of metallic paint to the rivets on that juggernought.

Typically panels like that get painted after assembly, and the paint globs up around the rivet's bottom, while the paint on its top is the first thing to chip off. Just a thought from a metal-working fag.
>>
>>48043531
I haven't touched him in a long time. These got taken just after a tournament I had stayed up 16 hours painting everything in a mad rush for. That's why there's also orange over fucking everything. It comes off like a rust effect, but in reality I just overshot with my airbrush at 4 in the morning and couldn't be fucked fixing the paint.

I will paint over the rivets though, I generally do do that.
>>
>>48043608
Fair enough, was just askin about it
>>
So I layered a guy in leadbelcher, then silver, and now I'm just layering agrax over agrax over agrax to see if I can get a glossy brown (kind a minotaurs look, I guess?) So far he looks back up to leadbelcher in terms of brightness and a tad more brown

I'm honestly just using old marines to try and learn techniques
>>
>>48043746
If you want glossy brown GW literally just released a glossy Agrax.
>>
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>>48043450
Maybe if people that did not paint GW things started posting their WIP you could remove that stick that is lodged in your ass out.
>>
>>48043776
That sticks lodged pretty far up anon. Wanna give me a hand getting it out?
>>
>>48043789
Sure lend me one of your unpainted Jacks and I will pull it out.

Then you will finally have something painted.
>>
>>48043770
I'm just trying to learn the technique, man

probably not gonna use it much in the future, just think it'd come in handy to know
>>
>>48043836
Washes and paints are innately matte. Hit it with a gloss like ardcoat afterwards or mix it into the paint.
>>
>>48042796
pretty good, but why are all highlights layered, but the shoulderpad is not? Or is it an illusion?It really looks blended
>>
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Progress pic, still missing bits on him and I have to convert him to 40k and try a spirit theme once some bits come in. First picture ive ever taken with my homemade shitty lightbox too. Suggestions?
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>>48044210
>>
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>>48044233
I know hes missing a leg chunk. I may be using LEDs for some additions in the future.
>>
Still need to work on bases, but otherwise done
>>
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Current WIP, finished 20/40 since Monday
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>>48044210
Build up your layers until each colour is solid and unblemished. Get rid of your mould lines. Work some dark colours that aren't metals into the model to break up the bright colours and make them pop more.
>>
>>48044342
I think the mega armour needs a secondary colour, it has too much yellow.
>>
>>48044426
The loincloth is yellow just really terrible angle to show it off, and the model will be getting a healthy dosage of either blue or green spirits to fit a theme I want to try. But in the meantime maybe I should brighten up some bits. As for the lines I assume you mean the shoulders? if so his chest and back are two seperate pieces that arent glued together yet theres a gap due to this ill comb back over to see if theres others I missed. Any color suggestions to break it up?
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>>48038704
You forgot to remove the mold lines
>>
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Made a beatstick for my chappy.
>>
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>>48038704
>Was just having fun with drybrushing and highlighting. Debating leaving them like that (it's just those two purestrains in Deathwatch) or actually try and make them look like normal 40k models.

Genestealers, as their name implies, steal genes. That's why the ones from Ymgarl (pic related) look like giant leeches with legs. Who's to say that particular colouration is not the result of exposure to whatever they're mining on Ghosar Quintus?

>>48039671
>the last 4 pictures are the same

They are, from left to right:

6). Shading and highlights added to boltgun's red casing, terminator honours amulet painted gold, fixed where paint had rubbed off helmet (visible in #5).
7). Mithral Silver/Runefang Steel applied to highlight some shiny metal bitz. Gem on amulet painted green. Chapter symbol added to left shoulder pauldron (not visible).
8). Army badge added to right leg. Command insignia added to right shoulder pauldron (not visible). Backpack cloak attached.
9). Static grass added to base.
>>
>>48042289
You try sticking matchsticks onto square dowels perfectly
>>
>>48044210
your lightbox needs more light
>>
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I'm painting a scibor dwarf general as a gift for a friend, but it got pretty stale...
The armor is finished, but the lightining is so light it gord unnoticed. Do you have some suggestion to add details? I already added some damage battle, but seems it's not enough.
I was thinking to use some nihilakh oxide, but I fear to ruin the model.

What do?
>>
>>48045587
I recommend you repaint the complete armor silver and use gold, not copper for the embossed details.
>>
>>48045382
I realise this! Haha Im using a poorly made one from a box and some cloth I had. ill be upgrading soon.
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>>48045120
For a moment I thought this was a space marine helmet in the vein of what Thousand Sons and World Eaters.
>>
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Nearly finished imperial fist praetor, touching up and weathering's pretty much all that's left.
>>
What artistic medium is a good substitute to practice model painting? In addition to pen and paper, I have access to a tablet and some acrylic paint. I heard someone recommend adult coloring books, but I wanted to get /wip/'s advice before deciding to invest fully in the hobby.
>>
>>48045918
>Nearly finished imperial fist praetor, touching up and weathering's pretty much all that's left.

That's lookin' sharp. Does he have a mustache? Is that the original head, then, or a swap?
>>
>>48045587
>$3 made in China Reaper figure
>Fucking Relic Knight boxes behind everything
>Suddenly one of the ass kicking $60 Scibor bear riders
Glad to see that people sampling all sorts of models
To answer your questions try using a heavier black wash and then mixing whatever base paint you have with silver, and then going over all the lines one more time.
>>
>>48045947
>What artistic medium is a good substitute to practice model painting?

Honestly, I don't think there is one.

>In addition to pen and paper, I have access to a tablet and some acrylic paint.

What *kind* of acrylic paint, anon? The kind that are best for 28mm-scale models are made to scale down well if you use them right. The kind you get from art supply and craft stores - even *real* art supply stores that sell the "good stuff" - does not scale well to something that puts "man-sized" at about an inch-and-a-half tall.

For a similar reason, model railroaders who crave realism don't use real water to represent bodies of water at HO scale; it doesn't look like water! They instead use wax, plastic, or resin.

>I heard someone recommend adult coloring books, but I wanted to get /wip/'s advice before deciding to invest fully in the hobby.

Shilling aside, if you're willing to pay MSRP, Games Workshop sells a kit with three multi-part Space Marines and enough paints to paint them to a good tabletop standard for $33US. I wouldn't mind having those models in my collection, and I already own hundreds of Space Marines!

Really, though... does your city/town/village/hamlet have a local game store where miniatures games (regardless of genre) are bought/sold/played? Start there. Even single-employee-manned Games Workshops/Warhammer stores may be willing to teach you some of the basics; it's an investment for them, and a learning opportunity for you.
>>
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>>48045679
That's definitely something I'll put on the to-do list.
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>>48045959
It's the original head with the mohawk trimmed off and a moustache greenstuffed on. It's supposed to be a muttonstache, but it's kinda hard to see with the gorget.
>>
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A? B? C? Write-in?
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>>48043776
"We'll deplete the world of pewter by 2006"

Lost it.
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>>48046141
B makes the most sense.

A doesn't fit the frame and the back tires of C are too close.
>>
>>48046141
I'd say B.

Also, are those LEGO wheels?
You monster.
>>
>>48046141
B. Compare the Cadillac V-150 to the Cadillac LAV-300.
The 150 mounts a 20mm cannon at most, while the 300 mounts a 90mm. What you've got looks more like the former of those two loadouts, so there's no reason it'd weigh enough to require a 6x6 chassis.
>>
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Ever so slowly, the juve comes together.
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>>48046141
B looks more realistic, C looks more scifi. A looks kind of weird.
>>
>>48046190
>Also, are those LEGO wheels?
>You monster.

What's wrong with sneaking LEGO bitz onto the grim dark battlefields of the 41st millennium?
>>
>>48046215
I should note that the hull and weapons will go through some heavy modification, as this will be a Chimera stand-in
>>
>>48046245
I love those old dreadnoughts so much. I wonder what it would look like painted to a modern standard.
>>
>>48046248
Is it even large enough for that? Anyways, God speed anon.
>>
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"You can't just carry around skulls, it's too edgy!" they said.

Well see if I give a heck.
>>
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>>48046371
>I love those old dreadnoughts so much. I wonder what it would look like painted to a modern standard.

I think the newer plastics and even the old 2nd/3rd Edition metals spoil us with fine detail. I've considered recasting the old Contemptor, but honestly? That's a lot of metal for something that just isn't that attractive!
>>
>>48046245
The only way it's okay is if they're detachable. Glueing LEGO is a cardinal sin.

Although to be fair, I did find one of those old rounded swords recently. I might just be able to sneak it into a Necromunda model.
>>
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>>48046371

Old models painted with modern techniques are my fetish.
>>
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>>48046644
>Old models painted with modern techniques are my fetish.

In my defense, I based them with flock because I wanted them to match the rest of my army.
>>
So I'd feel ashamed if I spent 25 bucks on the citadel hobby drill and I tried looking for cheaper alternatives on ebay.
Came across this which explicitly states is not suitable for "hard things". Do you think it can drill citadel's tin alloy?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/311605719662?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
>>
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>>48046644

Fergot ta ask: are these the plastic ladz from Space Crusade?
>>
>>48045918
I need a helmet for that guy but I'm having trouble converting one.
Would a standard Tartaros armor head work for him?
>>
>>48046718
Looks like it. I've got a few of the Chaos Marines knocking around from a box I got when I was like 5, those models are pure sex. Simple moulds but god damn the helmets, the powerpack, the pauldrons, just everything looks damn good.
>>
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>>48046823
>Simple moulds but god damn the helmets, the powerpack, the pauldrons, just everything looks damn good.

Space Crusade was never released in the US. I got my hands on a few of the marines second-hand, and since I could never really use them for much, gave them to my son. I would love to have the entire game and those awesome Chaos Dreadnoughts!

I have plenty of the weird proto-40K weapon options for them; not just bolt guns, but assault cannons, missile launchers, fusion guns, lascannons, and conversion beamers. I'm thinking some of those would look great on some more modern Mk VII models.
>>
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Posting some progress on my Blood Ravens terminator librarian.
I am still trying to decide how to do the shoulder pads thought. Do not want this too look too ultramarine or blood angel.
>>
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I fucking made it blurry.
R8 m8s
>>
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Close up shot.
Gemstone paint was more orange than red, would rather freehand gems next time than use paints
>>
>>48046982
>Do not want this too look too ultramarine or blood angel.

Considering you made his whole body blue, that might be kinda hard. Still, against a sea of dark red ladz, he should stand out. Might I suggest you paint both shoulder pauldrons that off-white colour da uvva squadboyz use on theirs, and apply a chapter icon to his left pauldron?

Also, a suitable back banner, or maybe a giant book displaying the chapter's symbol... that's just the kind of over-the-top ridiculousness that WH40K is famous for!
>>
>>48047057
>a giant book displaying the chapter's symbol

Did your model come with this bit?
>>
>>48047032
>>48047050
it's decent for the tabletop
>>
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I started sculpting some nurgle terrain a few days ago. This the first of a couple of larger pieces I'd like to make. It needs a lot of work but it's coming along. Any critique/suggestions?
>>
>>48047050
gemstone is ok to be orange, but you did the opposite way: darker side is on top, lighter on bottom.
Add a little dot of withe on the darker place--->profit
>>
>>48046105
Thanks for the response, I only mentioned I had acrylic paint because I thought someone might suggest using it to practice painting composite layers. I was aware that modeling paint was of a special variety. I don't want to waste money, but I understand your point that the best practice is direct practice.
>>
>>48047223
It looks like a big bent over cock (with spikes). Are you sure it's nurgle and not slaaneshi?
>>
>>48046141
I'm not sure what scale you are using but A looks like it should be massive for its environment, like a wheeled land ship.
>>
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>>48047057
>apply a chapter icon to his left pauldron?

Sorry, >>48046982, this is not a model that I own, but a quick Google search reveals that the left pauldron is emblazoned with the Crux Terminatus. It seems like it would be a waste to scrape that off for the sake of adding a chapter symbol. Besides, terminators normally display the chapter symbol on the right pauldron anyway; maybe you could do something Blood Raven-ish with it?

If not, there are always back banners!
>>
>>48047233
I was following duncans tutorial though, he said blob it on the bottom and push up.
>>
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>>48047302
I guess it's personal preference then?
I saw it again, and he said it only for the blue, for the other ones he says that most color must stay at the top.
Final result is not bad anyway, just add the little white dot
>>
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>>48047302
>I was following duncans tutorial though, he said blob it on the bottom and push up.

Is that the tutorial for the new gem paint? Maybe it's supposed to work differently.
>>
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>>48047287
>>48047057


Thanks jhonny! well unfortunatley the right shoulder pad is obscured by a book. So my idea here is to paint the right kneepad in bone color and paint the blood ravens symbol. Like my previous librarian.
>>
>>48046141
I like C
>>
>>48047223
nice big veiny penis
>>
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>>48046388
Its roughly the right size, a bit thinner but should be the same length and height.
>>
>>48047444
why are the three different gems done differently from each other?
>>
>>48047267
>>48047509
>>48047223
This, might as well go all out and build a whole set of Giger terrain.
>>
>>48047547
It's just different techniques.
>>
>>48047547
To demonstrate various methods.
>>
>>48047573
but you can use either technique for any colour?

For instance, a purple gem could utilise any of the three?
>>
>>48047599
Well yeah
>>
>>48047620
Uh... yeah, ok then
>>
>>48047267
I thought everything chaos related had to be slightly phalic
>>48047568
Not a bad idea. I was taking more inspiration from rotting trees and fungi but I like the biotechnology look of Geiger
>>
>>48047685
>i like the biotechnology look of Geiger
>biotechnology
its called 'dicks'
>>
>>48042535
i need to know what parts he's made of, besides the dominus kit.
>>
Hello People, I would like to paint my lizardman army with a similar scheme, maybe a little more orange, How you guys would male it?
>>
make it*
>>
>>48047831
body appears to be an old tomb kings kit, tendrils are from talos/chronos
>>
>>48047831
Tomb kings stalker, pain engine tendrils, skitaari bits
>>
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I just sprayed my chimera with a army painter desert yellow and it feels like shag carpeting.

Fuck my luck.
>>
>>48047530
Nice Ragnarok my comrade.
>>
>>48047223
you need more pus dripping wounds and boils on your dong tree.
>>
>>48047223
Good start.

I'd add a lot of boils and a little bit of white static grass for fungi.
>>
http://imgur.com/a/vTCyg

Deathlord Mortarch we got going. would love some feedback
>>
>>48049871
Stop taking pictures with light flashes, do the effort to get a few lamps and maybe a white background.
Otherwise it looks neat for the most part. I can spot a few places with gaps, but i'm guessing they will be covered up.
hope you decorate the base too.
>>
Working on some chaos terminators with grey knight halberds. Any suggestions on what to do with the weapon hand that has the purity seals? Half tempted to leave them and just have chaos scribbles on them like with dark apostles. I have switched the halberds with the pole-axe heads from the chaos knights kit and am making the storm bolters combi-plas.
>>
>>48047267
nurgle's original symbol was a cock and balls
>>
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Working on getting 2k points of KoW painted up. Have some brok mounts done, now Im working on the riders. There are some fuckups but Im more interested in just getting everything painted. After everything is done I can worry about minor things.
>>
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>>48051085
Everything else I have done for the Dwarf/ Salamander allies atm.
>>
>>48044503
ur a grot
>>
>>48049871
>http://imgur.com/a/vTCyg
>posting a link to an image on an image hosting website on an image hosting website
what is wrong with you
>>
>>48051186
here take my upvote
>>
Interesting tip, when removing paint, either it is a flat area or dont do it at all... Unless you are planning on removing the paint of the entire model.

I fucked up a very hard to get model like that once. Thankfully you can get it for 10 bucks on ebay.
>>
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Getting back into painting again from a years break and painted up a test model for a Sons of Horus army.

Not happy with it, kind of feels bland and boring to me.
I'm thinking of just making the shading darker and the highlights brighter.

If that won't work I guess I could do a more dramatic transition between the Lupercal Green and the Sons of Horus Green zenithal highlights.

Any thoughts or tips?
>>
>>48051289
what?
>>
>>48051903
I like the OSL. How did you achieve this?

Looks like you've got some dust or some kind of shit behind his knees.
>>
>>48051966

Yeah, somehow some dust got into the box when I primed him, didn't really care as he's just a test model.

The eyes were painted White Scar -> Trollslayer Orange -> washed Reikland Fleshshade -> Yriel Yellow line in the middle of the lens -> another smaller line of White Scar.
>>
>>48052015
ok thanks, but the OSL?
>>
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My goodness. I've been working on my first unit for a long time now.

These models are so detailed, and my hand is so shaky
>>
>>48052022

Oh sorry, that's just thinned down Trollslayer orange painted as a highlight underneath the lense. Made it in 2 layers, the second line thinner than the first to create the impression of a transition.
>>
best compressor for a Badger patriot hopper-fed airbrush?
>>
>>48052037
I would think painting them on sticks doesn't help you, as any minor movement of your hands/fingers will result in a large movement of the object being painted. How about using a wine bottle cork? You'll just have to reposition the packs a couple times.
>>
>>48052081
>>48052037

>attach to sticks
>attach sticks to pill bottle or other similarly sized cylinder either by glue, putty, or sticking stick through hole
>no touching of pack required
>>
>>48052144
>>48052081
Now that I'm trying to hit all the details I've mostly just been working with them laying down like that. But I do have corks to put the sticks in, and did have them standing up when they were getting full base coats.

Right now I want to hit all the little details all over the unit, then do a wash off most of the surfaces and then highlight. It may take a long time at this rate though
>>
>>48052144
>literally 'why not both?' the post
Yaaaay!
>>
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>>48052215
SOMETIMES BOTH IS BETTER
>>48052210
I've considered using one of those third hand things for painting details on, replacing the alligator clips with something more gentle
>>
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Newbie here, I have a few questions.

1. For my first Warhammer 40k model how is it?
2. How do I get the small details while not having the paint run
And
3. The lettering on the right side, I'd like to have it be white slate with black lettering, how do I manage this?
>>
>>48038533

Those are some nasty mold lines, anon. And you're absolutely not finished painting those either.
Pick out some details.
Come on, anon. They show potential. Don't be so lazy, put some damn effort in!
>>
>>48052605
>For my first Warhammer 40k model how is it?
That's a really nice flat yellow you got there, good job. To add depth to it easily you can take agrax earthshade and paint a thin line of it into the recesses such as the borders of the rectangles and the toe segments.

Other than that, you've went out of the lines a little, make sure to tidy that up as I swear the human eye is designed to instantly notice mistakes like that. I think the purple could do with another thin coat over it as well.

>How do I get the small details while not having the paint run
Put less paint on your brush for small details, and your paint shouldn't be thin enough to run out of your control.

>The lettering on the right side, I'd like to have it be white slate with black lettering, how do I manage this?
Like I suggested with the agrax shade, but with nuln oil instead. Build up a strong white colour through multiple thin coats then take a small brush and a tiny bit of the shade and drop it into the lettering. It should flow through the magic of capillary action.
>>
>>48039063
The one on the far right would make a cool Eldar corsair captain.
>>
>>48052073
Aspire TC908
>>
>>48051085
Those are really cool, well done.
>>
Does anyone know the height, width, and length exactly of the citadel crusade carry case. I'm poking around for cases of equal size i can fill with the plucking foam. I'm really new, but I figure I'll be needing the storage space eventually with a full army
I was just going to use a number of gun cases i have around, but it'd be easier to just put it all in one box.
>>
>>48052605

Yellow is widely considered to be one of the most difficult colors to work with, so good job making it appear even and smoove.

To get white/black effect, I would recommend building up white from gray, then applying a black wash to the lettering

Good luck. Expect to suck dick for a lot of models, but trust me when I say that every model gets more and more satisfying.
>>
>>48053039
if they don't have it on their website they're generally responsive in email.
>>
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>>48037725

Copy this, but use purple.
>>
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So all the new Sylvaneth coming out in AoS caught my eye. I really like Dryads, treeple and bugs so I decided to start collecting some. As stated, I really like Dryads so I tried to convert a Treelord Ancient into a giant one...
>>
>>48053235
I emailed them but they may not reply till tuesday.
>Games Workshop NAS Customer Service will be closed on Friday July 1st for Emperor's Day and Monday July 4th for IndependenceDay. We will resume normal hours of operation on Tuesday, July 5th.
Gonna email the Uk email to see if they give me the same reply
>>
>>48053841
>Many thanks for contacting Games Workshop Customer Service, we aim reply to your email within 24 hours, however, during busy times it may take a little longer. If your enquiry is urgent please call us on 0115 91 40000 during the hours below:-Monday to Friday - 9.00am to 6.00pm (GMT)

Well then, if you're in the US and need to ask GW anything, make sure to email the UK one
>>
I need to paint a large crystal
I've never done crystal or similar before
Other than small decorative gems

Any painting videos where someone does a large one? Like, Tiberium or Starcraft minerals large?
>>
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>>48054039
You mean something like this? I think Micheals sells these, up to like the side of a baseball
>>
>>48054039
if its for terrain i'd consider using real crystal. What color, how translucent, and what size? if you have a dremel sizing will be easier. same with shape
>>
>>48054108
>>48054106
It's part of a pewter model.
It's a crystal, not rock.
I've done small gems like on armor, but nothing this big.
Think natural cave emerald pillar or something.

Doesn't have to be gem-crystalline. Real emeralds like you'd find a cave are pretty cloudy.

I've seen people paint just "stone", and marble. That's about it. Not sure how to approach natural gemstone.
>>
>>48053841
Sweet. My birthday is Emperor's Day
>>
>>48054139
if you wanted a green crystal that has some translucency on a terrain I'd look into something like this. They're fairly easy to cut with a diamond cutting tool on a dremel. and you gotta keep it oiled as you cut or risk cracking it
http://www.ebay.com/itm/630g-110mm-Emerald-Green-Quartz-Cluster-/152143065651?hash=item236c6ef233:g:QZYAAOSwud1W~dnm
now with a person, i imagine you're looking into around 1cm or so? You could possibly knock off a small piece and cut then polish it into shape. but thats iffy just due to the size
>>
>>48054212
No no, it's part of the sculpt.
I'm painting a sculpt of a giant crystal.
Otherwise that's the kind of thing I'd go with.

Frosted though! That would work if I could figure out how to make a lightly colored frost.
>>
>>48054229
this may lead you in the correct direction http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1200
>>
>>48054322
Bingo!
Looks like the technique GW likes to use on weapon blades. That's perfect for a metallic style.
I'm going to experiment on some scrap to see if I can't get that frosted emerald look to work, will post if anything worthwhile comes of it.
>>
>>48054370
I'm working out making a tzeentch corrupted terrain with bismuth in the meanwhile. Probably not soon as my army isnt even done
>>
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Still need to do some detail work on these boys.
>>
>>48053708

Giant wood tits, anon?
>>
>>48042221
Yes I do.
guardiansotc.blogspot.com
>>
>>48054180
Happy birthday, Anon.
>>
Got a bit of "frosting" underneath a transfer on a shield, i.e. you can see the see-through bit.

Anything I can do, paint over it maybe?
>>
>>48055344

If it's underneath, you fucked up. Should've used micro sol and set, followed by varnish
>>
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Glowing Necron guts, yay or nay?

I have my Warriors painted up, but last night mused with the idea of making their ribs and eyes glow.

I still had my 3 test models and gave it ago

All 3 of them had their inner chests painted warpstone glow and the one in the center had a further highlight of moot green, although I fucked that up as I was painting in low light and didn't mean to get so much paint in his eye sockets.

Basically it means going from whats on the left to something similar as on the right

what do you think?
>>
>>48055542
doing a mix of intensities might work well, since you're making them all rusted and old looking
>>
>>48055542
Looks pretty fuckin' good, anon. Make it so.
>>
>>48055542
ye glowing!
>>
>>48055542
I too, am in favour of different intensities of glowing.
>>
Does anyone know of a place where I could score some coral/coral replica that's small enough to place on a 25mm base? Or alternatively, a tutorial to craft my own?
>>
>>48055542
does painting a necron squad take like 5 minutes?
>>
>>48055562
>>48055563
>>48055565
>>48055585

Appreciate the response guys, thanks I'll go for that, and the idea now of the different glows really works for me

>>48055596

The warriors? It's quick, real quick.

Spray Silver primer.
Nuln Wash
Nulk Wash
Rust Pigment
Runefang steel highlight
Bases
Glue in neon rod
Shade the power tube on the Gauss rifle

Excluding drying times, it's about 90 minutes for 20
>>
>>48055542

>the rust is only on the moving parts

What
>>
>>48055542
Got to say, those are the best looking rusty necrons I've ever seen. I'll go for different intensities too, that in large numbers will make it look more like a pulsing glow I think.
>>
>>48055636

I know, I know, buuuut... for "my guys"

It's a sentient Xenoc rust "virus" that was released when my Dynasty stormed a Xenoc world to awaken another tomb. It's trying to rust them into statues starting with the joints. The Dynasty canoptek scarabs fight a never ending battle to remove the rust as it regenerates itself.

My phaeron is looking for the cure.
>>
>>48055667
>Magic rust
>>
>>48055667

But Necrons have webway teleportation gates, they can just walk from tomb to tomb
>>
>>48055699

Rust nanites and pls, no bully.

>>48055706

Not the dormant Tombs, afaik?
>>
>>48055643

Thanks mate!

>>48055562

Knocked it out of the park with that idea, loving it.
>>
Is there a store that sells Tamiya? I need metallic blue and green for my Alpha Legion, but I can't find anywhere that might have it.
>>
>>48056611
Amazon sells Tamiya. Something you may or may not know, but I want to bring it up anyway; Tamiya doesn't hand brush well (it's alcohol based acrylic, tends to dry on the brush). You'll want an airbrush.
>>
>>48056644
Oh dammit, I don't have an airbrush. Would you know of anything that might be a good equivalent? Maybe Vallejo metallic medium and french blue?
>>
>>48056656
Not that anon, I've only had experience with Tamiya Smoke, but it would go on easier with some medium. I think you need their own brand, though.
>>
>>48055542
They look quite harmless. Good job on that.

On a more serious note, they look awesome. Please teach me your angry robot secrets.
>>
>>48056656
There's the ghetto version of it, basecoast bright silver then use blue/green wash/glazes
>>
>>48041724
>2016+37984
>haven't invented breach loading yet
>lost technology from the dark age
lol part of me says I wouldn't be the slightest bit surprised with this.
>>
>>48056668
I've never actually used Tamiya before, it's just what people seem to use for AL
>>48056674
...Would that work? I've got some Guilliman Blue that might could on a silver model
>>
>>48042550
nice grey knight with thunderhammer
>>
>>48055636
>>48055667
I thought it was dust accumulating in the joints, going by the red sand they're standing on.
>>
>>48056745

That makes even less sense
>>
>>48056834
regenerating skeleton robots don't grease their joints?
>>
>>48054392
>using pieces of bismuth on a tzeentch army

shit that's a pretty good idea, shaping/filing down pieces of bismuth to replace certain panels on rhinos, pieces of daemon prince armor, etc might be awesome
>>
>>48056898

They have nanotech, living metal, control gravity and can snuff out suns for shits and giggles, I doubt they use grease and even if they did, it wouldn't make sense to have dirt on the moving part. Around it, sure.
>>
>>48046718
>>48046823

Yeah, those are the Space Crusade Chaos Marines. Think I need to paint mine up after seeing those. I've painted the Orks, the Dreadnought.... actually... most of the Alien stuff is done. Might try getting Forge-World stuff for the marines though. The Original sculpts are a bit... squashed.
>>
>>48046898
I think it might have been... though I could be wrong. Certainly the US got a ton of HeroQuest stuff that we never got... which is now worth many $$$$.
>>
>>48056961
Just remember that while remarkably non-toxic for a heavy metal, you still should have mask on while sanding and varnish it afterward.
>>
>$11 for 70 skulls
I can't say I'm not tempted
>>
>>48047965
>How you guys would male it?
nice big veiny penises
>>
>>48057025
o-ok

damn if it's all health hazardy and shit maybe i won't bother
>>
>>48057010
>I think it might have been... though I could be wrong.

The only ones I've ever seen here were brought back from the UK by ex-pats or purchased from the UK at great expense. What we *did* get was *Advanced* Space Crusade, which pitted the old mohawk scouts against those gangly First Edition Tyranid Warriors... but that game was just a pathetic shadow of the original.
>>
>>48055596
I use 14 different paints/shades on my warriors.

That's without the base. The drying time alone between colors is 140 minutes, further time between layers of the same color, then time spent cleaning up and doing detail work like the eyes, the chest symbol, and freehand strips on the shoulders and forehead, plus edge highlight and drybrush where appropriate.

I crank out a squad in about a week working on/off when I can.
>>
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>>48057333
>*Advanced* Space Crusade

Forgot picture.
>>
>>48057353
>140
nigger, what
>>
>>48057316
You should be fine unless you work a lot with the stuff. Just read up on it before starting.
>>
>>48057376
You dont allow your paint to dry for a good ten minutes between colors? Less is fine for coats of the same color, but when I switch I let it dry for a bit longer.
>>
>>48056983
It gathers in these parts, gets stuck there.
>>
>>48057397
If I'm applying to the same area I give it 15 minutes to dry, often I'll put a couple colors scattered around at the same time.

But 140 fucking minutes? You let them sit for over two hours?
>>
>>48057410
>But 140 fucking minutes? You let them sit for over two hours?
lol no, i meant ten minutes for each color, 14 colors altogether.
>>
>>48057410
I think he meant cumulative, over the course of a project.
>>
How deep am I meant to drill barrels? It's my first time doing it and I've just fucked up two bolters trying to do it
>>
>>48057427
Enough to be able to get some shade in there to add depth. A few millimeters should be fine.
>>
>>48057451
Looks like I went too deep then. I started out using the wrong sized drrill bit as well, so I don't think that helped.

Fucked them both on the same bike as well :(

Think I'll drill some more craters along the the front of the bike and make it look like the rider drove into a hail of bullets
>>
>>48057527
You could always use it as an opportunity to try out greenstuff. I guarantee you that you'll be able to make it look as good as new with minimal time and practice. You can even drill the green stuff afterwards and get the same effect you were going for.
>>
>>48057553
Think I'll pick up some greenstuff and get to work with that then, cheers for the help
>>
>>48038548
All dat PE. I wish you luck. Good to see a fellow scale modeller.
>>
>>48057427
>How deep am I meant to drill barrels?
>>48057451
>Enough to be able to get some shade in there to add depth. A few millimeters should be fine.

At this scale, for regular run-of-da-mill bolt guns, that's usually good enough. I think it's neat, though, when you drill the barrel deep enough and them come cross-ways through the ports on the sides of the muzzle to make it completely hollow.

This is difficult and unnecessary on little fingz like Godwyn-pattern bolt guns (and a good way to ruin them if yer not careful!), but looks pretty cool on heavy bolters.
>>
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>>48042535
Found more bits, added this little guy before bed last night.

Going to work on it more tonight, radio antenna for sure and maybe hoses/tubing
>>
>>48057912
Not sure I'm a fan of that addition. It spoils the shape of the model, rather than it being a menacing curve forwards it now looks unfocussed.
>>
>>48057912
Sorry for the sideways pic
Rotating it made the file too large

>>48057935
I feel the same, wanted to make sure that it wasn't just me.
>>
>>48057418
I think that's what people are so baffled with, since you said "between colors", so it sounds like 140 minutes to dry per colour.
>>
>>48058043
lol, that would make painting a squad of warriors a month-long ordeal. I have enough problems gathering up motivation to paint them as it is.
>>
>>48057404

Have you ever seen a piston or a joint? That's just not how it works
>>
Any reccomendations other than Reaper for generic fantasy models?
>>
>>48058375


www.secretweaponminiatures.com/
www.bitsandkits.co.uk
www.foundationsofwar.co.uk/
www.darkartminiatures.com/
www.ironhalo.net/store/catalog/
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www.maxmini.eu/store/index.php
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www.miniaturicum.de/
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www.gamezoneminiatures.de/
www.gcmshop.com/
www.pegasushobbies.net/
www.spellcrow.com/
www.wargamesfoundry.com/
>>
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>>48058405
Many thanks anon
>>
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Perrrkele
have a fun and productive weekend guys
>>
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>>48058450
y...you too

nearly finished, still gotta clean and detail the bony bits and overall clean up
>>
>>48058450

Candy :DDDDDD
>>
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>>48057981
>Rotating it made the file too large

I can help with that.

Reminds me a lot of the robots in the Animatrix segment "Matriculated". Peter Chung's stuff is cool!
>>
>>48057981
>Rotating it made the file too large

So scale that shit down while you're at it. Hell, you should do that anyway. It'd be a huge pic even if nice and sharp, but most of it is blur and noise.
>>
>>48058569
i can always trust you to show up, hello my friend and have a good one

>>48058542
looking really crisp there dude and nice work getting that yellow to stick out so good on red basepaint
>>
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>>48058542
and some WIP nobz
>>
>>48038704
Those actually look cool as they are, as other anon said they do absorb genes so it's conceivable to have wild ass colors like that. Also what's your process for that I may steal it (accidental pun I swear) for my Spess Hulk bugs.
>>
>>48045918
That is some sexy tartaros pattern armor.
>>
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also fin(n)ished some craters and new lighter gaming board
>>
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>>48059059
>>
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Turning a couple of CD spindles into water tower terrain pieces.

I've opened and re-saved with my PC so they should be correct orientation.
>>
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Also got these both off ebay for about £15 together.
They are now stripping in brake fluid. Will post after result tomorrow.

Looks like the thick one was Red, then Blue before Black. About 3 mm of paint thickness.
Cut off all the details like the scroll and Aquila.
>>
>>48059105
I feel sorry for that model, it never asked for this.
Good luck striping it.
>>
>>48058542
>>48058450
dayum your clean precise lines are making me jealous
>>
>>48058750
Man those heads are bad.
>>
>>48059234
>>48058691
>>48059219
Thanks!
>>48059234
What about "WIP" dont you understand? Its just basecoat in 2 of them, 3rd requires final touch ups and cleaning
>>
>>48059284
Not the paintjob, the heads themselves, it's a problem with most third party ork heads, all look like they have agressive bone cancer of the jaw.
>>
>>48059313
Ah, i see, the heads i got as a gift from my roommate, some old edition metal heads i thought looks better than the new nob heads
>>
>>48058405
>generic fantasy
>no otherworld miniatures
my friend pls
Also westwind has more or less generic dwarfs, high/dark elves and humans. Brigade games have celtos stuff, which is really oldschool and less generic, except for the undead.
Might also add warhansa, sgt major miniatures, thebattleforge and the assault group.
>>
>>48059398
also darkswordminiatures, if you aren't looking for whole armies, but groups of adventures (and the best owlbear model out there).
>>
>>48057910

>This is difficult and unnecessary on little fingz like Godwyn-pattern bolt guns (and a good way to ruin them if yer not careful!), but looks pretty cool on heavy bolters

It's piss easy on normal bolters, providing you don't have parkinson's.

>>48057427

Use a pin (or the tip of a scalpel, or something similarly sharp) to center the hole before you drill. Perfect barrels, every time.
>>
>>48058450
>finn
>not drinking energy drink energy
How does that taste anyway?
>>
>>48059080
What are you using for the base?
>>
>>48059603
In my much younger years I mucked up a fair few bolter barrels. Is it possible to greenstuff it and drill that or is it too soft?
>>
>>48059105
The poor machine spirit.

Also that hunter killer missile is backwards isn't it.
>>
>>48060025
I would use plastic tube the same diameter as the barrel an just drill the muzzle break holes. It would be stronger and easier.
>>
>>48060282
Solid idea, I'll give it a try. Cheers.
>>
>>48056611
My Manga shop sells them
>>
>>48047155
Thanks m8 what I was going for 2bh.
I'd tabletop good though or what's it comparable to?
>>
>>48060052
It sure was until I liberated it. I'll do before and after tomorrow morning UK time.
>>
>>48046524
That middle one has seen some shit.
>>
>>48060864
And loves it! Look at that crotch bulge!
>>
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How do I paint this? I greenstuffed some for my dread, now I have to figure out how to paint it.
>>
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>>48059105
The less gunked up one is already stripped.
pic related.

The worse one appears to have been fully painted as followed as I brush away layers:
Black base.
Red with black templar transfers
Yellow
Blue
Black again with raven guard transfers.

My first 5th hand model...
>>
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>>48061580
>The worse one appears to have been fully painted as followed as I brush away layers:
>Black base.
>Red with black templar transfers
>Yellow
>Blue
>Black again with raven guard transfers.

Sometimes that happens in this hobby.
>>
>>48061571
You're kidding right? The glasses show you how to paint it right there with a reflection effect.
>>48061580
Carry on brave anon and show those models some much needed love.
>>48061852
Shame that Turn Signals on a Land Raider stopped updating
>>
>>48062010
>shame that some awful badly drawn webcomic full of random epicness xD stopped updating
>>
>>48042796
i dig it, except for the shade on the pauldorn edge, it needs more blend
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