WIP / Painting General

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Also, repost to get things moving.

Dracothian Chariot. Should I put a banner in the back of the combat platform? The two guys are already pretty tightly packed on there, adding more stuff might be too much. On the other hand, most chariots in the game have some sort of banner there...

>>47712699
Thank you. Your efforts are appreciated.

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>>47712699
Red is pain.

But at least it isn't yellow.

>>47712800
am I the only person that finds red, white and yellow not only easy, but fun?

>>47712800
Yellow>white>red>anything else.

>free day so decide to clean up and prime some models
>go to paint
>my two main colors are basically out and lumpy
>have to go out for dinner in three hours so it isn't worth me driving thirty minutes each way to get more
>super busy weekend

So now I am stuck here doing the metalics that I prefer to do last.
I won't use a model unless it at least has some of my major colors on it.

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>>47712800
>Red is pain.

It's not so bad if you prime white. You can get a really bright Second Edition red if you prime white.

>But at least it isn't yellow.

Wisdom.

>>47712830
Life is hard

>>47712830
>>have to go out for dinner in three hours so it isn't worth me driving thirty minutes each way to get more

Yes it is. 1 hour round trip leaves 2 hours of painting and dicking around in the store before dinner.

I'm a procrastinator myself so I can see when people are just making empty excuses.

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>>47712826

Just got my first three fliers for 40k and primed them all white and then >>47712830.

They are going to have alternating colors and I don't care how bad it may look.

>>47712859
>2 hours of painting and dicking around in the store before dinner.
>Trying to paint at my FLGS during le Magic Night

Since school is out these bastards are there at open and on Friday they are there in droves. My store is much bigger than any of the GWs I have been to and most other game stores but last weekend I went on Saturday when they don't have a Magic Event and there were at least twenty of them playing.

>Knight almost done.
>The god damn battle cannon just does not want to look right
>Repainted it three times but still not good enough.

Making a Slaaneshi knight is pain.

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>>47712818
I'm actually with you on red. I just needed two coats of mephiston red to get a strong color on my blood angels.

WIP don't judge to bad.

Alright WIP, I have decided on Imperial Fists as my 30k loyalist legion. I'm capable of painting yellow to a fairly reasonable level and not pulling out my hair in the process but it takes a long time with my process: Grey Primer>medium brrown basecoat>thin yellow layers upon layers upon layers

Is there any way to speed this process up? Does priming white make that big of difference compared to grey? Is priming brown an effective option? Should I add an intermediate step between a brown basecoat and yellow layers? Any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

>>47712877
Oh God are you the anon with the Purple and Yellow Ravenwing?

>>47713009
The most obvious faster way would be using lighter brown and grey. I think i once saw someone prime white>wash sepia>highlight yellow>edge yellow and it looked actually decent, but i can't guarantee. (Is airbrushing an option?)

>>47712938
Maybe avoid painting ultra realistic veins on its throbbing penis cannon....

>>47713009

The broad strokes of your painting plan seem alright, but I'd recommend putting a yellow brown as an intermediary between the brown basecoat and the yellow layers. You'd reduce the amount of layers necessary quite dramatically I think.

>>47713068
No I just happen to be painting the Ravenwing Fliers as Purple, Yellow and White because I want them to stand out against the Blackness of my Codex painted bikers.

>>47712836
On the matter, does anybody have some good bright reds,which don't have that orange tough of wild rider red,to advice?

>>47713009
Army painter do a nice yellow primer, that followed by a sepia wash gets you a decent yellow base to work off.

>>47713109
Unfortunately no. The closest I can do is coloured primer spray cans. How light of a brown do you recommend? Now I'm thinking: primer> medium brown > light brown> yellow

>>47713009
Prime it with Army Painter Bone colour then do the shadows with slighty thinned agrax eartshade / lamia medium then go all over the model with cassandra yellow and then edge highlight with dorn yellow

>>47713009
Yellow primer, paint ink/wash into all the convenient lines and crevices Space Marine armour has, then slap whatever yellow you're using onto the flat bits.

For Space Marines I would nearly always prime in the colour they're actually going to be.

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First attempt at converting a Ravenwing bikebrarian. Im not thrilled with it. I went with the right caster arm over the sword to keep the librarius iconography on the shoulder, but that forward facing purity seal is bugging me. My green stuffing went a bit off as well.

Suggestions for improvement if i do a round two?

What paint on matte varnish do you guys use?

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>>47713219
I see that no amount of rotation appears to keep this image from flipping. Sorry about your broken necks.

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>>47713150
>On the matter, does anybody have some good bright reds,which don't have that orange tough of wild rider red,to advice?

Evil Sunz Scarlet is in between that darker Mephiston Red and Wild Rider Red (which really does look orange if you use it by itself). It's a layer paint, though, so the consistency is also different from Mephiston Red.

Any tips for painting Space Marine bikes? Bought a box today.

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>>47713182
Im lacking the edge highlight right know because i didnt manage to get my hands onto it but you should end up with these

>>47713261
I thought evil sunz was red too,i saw a tutorial where someone used it and it really looked orange.

>>47713009
http://www.mengelminiatures.com/2015/11/tutorial-heresy-era-imperial-fists.html

I was planning to follow this when I do my Fists.

>>47713150
Army painter do a bright as shit pure red.

Okay so just now getting into this hobby here.

How do I decide what color primer to use? I only have black glossy primer.

>>47713326
I meant orange obviously.

>>47713316
Imo, spray priming the sprue then painting the model in component sections prior to assembling fully was really efficient for bikes

>>47713373
How are the mold lines on the pieces? Easy enough to remove while on the sprue?

I'd check but I'm on the subway right now and it's crowded.

>>47713342

Depends on what color your model is. Grey is a good all around primer. You should use flat primers not glossy.

>>47713219
Looks fine to me. That looks like the Dark Vengeance librarian by the looks of it so its already shitty monopose.

Mine was my first "conversion" but I didn't put enough care into it and this he doesn't have an arm on the handlebars.

Since then I have converted the Blood Raven and White Scar from Overkill into my other two Biker Librarians in the conclave.

>>47713230

Army Painter. Vallejo's is too smooth to the touch.

>>47713390
Thrones models themselves? They are grey.

>>47713421
>>47713390
The models themselves*

Sorry, I'm on my phone.

>>47713421
What colour primer you use can depend on what colour you are going to paint the model.
If it's going to be mostly white or yellow overall then black primer with be a total pain, for instance.

>>47713421
It depends on what color you want to paint the models. Darker colors should use black primer to save time but honestly anything can be painted on any black, grey, or white primer. Just depends on how much time you want to save.

>>47713451
Is there some way of deciding which one to use? Do I just use the color that is the closest to what they will be overall?

>>47713471

You can buy a colored primer from Army Painter if it's that difficult for you to decide.

Black primer for armies that will be black or dark [color] like Dark Angels in dark green.

Grey or white for armies that are yellow, red, white, or grey or will be a light army like 2nd edition bright blue Ultramarines or bright green Salamanders.

>>47712994
nice. but one critisism.
FLIP THE PICTURE UPRIGHT.

>>47713518
Different anon, but I do have a question about those.

Which would you (not just you, but everyone) say is "lazier", using those, or airbrushing your basecoat on? My LGS is divided on this for ??? reasons.

>>47713547

Army Painter is lazier than airbrushing because with airbrushing you have to set up your airbrush area/booth and you also have to clean the airbrush and change colors eventually which is a pain in the ass.

Airbrushing in general is lazier than normal painting, but if it's just for priming or basecoating, shaking a rattle can for a minute then spraying is much lazier than getting your airbrush ready.

>>47713518
>primer from Army Painter
Not that anon, but I've had nothing but trouble with these. Why should I go with Army Painter when I could use Krylon, save money, and have to use one extra layer of paint?

>>47713419
Thanks, I have some Vallejo stuff and I wasn't too happy with the test results.

I used to have some excellent stuff, but the label came off the glass bottle years ago and I cannot remember what the fuck it was called.

>>47713547
who cares. work smart for YOU. fuck what others do if it's not what you prefer after trying the options yourself and forming... I know it's a foreign concept here... your own opinion

>>47713584

Because Krylon doesn't have as many colors nor does it have matching paint bottles.

If you don't know how to use AP you're just a moron. Try watching their youtube tutorial or reading the directions on the can. It doesn't spray like other brands but it's also not difficult. It's also more resilient to accidentally drenching the models in paint or spraying in bad weather compared to other brands. I consider AP the retard sorter spray. If you fuck up with AP, you're a retard or you did something wrong.

Spray lightly from a very close distance.

>>47713598
Hence the
>??? reasons

People at my shop like to argue about the DUMBEST shit.

>>47713573
See, I actually want an airbrush so I can use it just for priming and basecoating (the parts of painting I hate doing).

>>47713339
Thank you, doea anybody have experience with army painters' paints? Also is their demonic yellow bright as well?

>>47713619
>See, I actually want an airbrush so I can use it just for priming and basecoating (the parts of painting I hate doing).

Go look up a youtube video on how to change colors or clean an airbrush.

You will probably change your mind about getting one just for basecoating. A more convenient solution would be to buy a single action or bottom-fed spray gun like the crappy one GW used to sell.

>>47713642
Ah, I didn't know those exist actually.

I'll have to check those out instead then.

Hi, first time using green stuff...how much it takes to dry? literally 4 days passed an it still behaves like soft rubber.

>>47713387
Hm. You can probably get them off fine, I recently used the ravenwing elite bikers box so that's not gonna be an accurate measurement. I don't remember having issues with my regular Biker box

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Anyone else painting the Silver Tower stuff? Posting my progress from this evening since there aren't many images in the thread so far.

>>47713749
I'm guessing you didn't have equal parts. Is it pure green or does it have yellowish or blue tint?

>>47713749
>literally 4 days passed an it still behaves like soft rubber.
Then you didn't mix it properly.

After about an hour of working time it'll start to get stiffer and less sticky. Then it takes a good 10 to 12 hours at least to cure fully, but after 24 hours it should be as hard as it can be.

The blue part is the hardener, if you mix more blue you get GS that cures faster, but is a bit less sticky, if you use more yellow you get more working time and more sticky putty, that also doesn't dry as hard.

Heat can accelerate the curing.

>>47713795
Pretty good skin job anon.

>>47713798
I have literally equal parts of yellow and blue, and the yellow is homogeneous. Maybe I used too much water to wet the surfaces and my hands?

>>47713876
>and the yellow is homogeneous
Fuck, meant the green.

>>47713829
And how hard should it be? I mean, is not sticky now, and even if I squish it it returns to its form, but is like I said, rubber

>>47713867
Cheers, still a fair bit of work to go but I'm usually pretty good with skin which is why I started with these guys.

>>47713936
I would just add a little touch of highlight, but that's just me loving extreme highlights. It's pretty realistic and nice already. Also did you prime them with gesso? Primer looks very matte.

>>47713319
what do u use to hold the minis on the corks ?

>>47713901
>And how hard should it be? I mean, is not sticky now, and even if I squish it it returns to its form, but is like I said, rubber
It will never cure to be rock hard, if that is what you are worried about.
It's always gonna be a bit soft. If it's not tacky and does hold it's shape it's probably cured. How hard it ends up depends on how much blue you mixed with the yellow.

If you'd prefer something that dries hard as a rock i'd recommend looking into milliput. It feels a lot more like clay (as opposed to chewing gum like GS), you can dilute it with water until you can use it as a wash and once it's dry you can cut, drill, sand or do whatever else you need to do with it.
I like to do bases with milliput and miniatures with GS for example.

>>47713987
looks like foot holes. nice.

>>47713966
I've only done one layer on the front left two so far, they'll be getting more of a highlight.

And it's Halford's grey primer, which is an auto primer if you're not from the UK. I've been using it since the 90s, it's still the best stuff unless you really need a different colour.

>>47714018
So I won't be able to use sandpaper on GS?

>>47714053

You can sand dried greenstuff.

>>47714042
thank you

>>47714053
Yeah you can.
Will generally work better if you planned ahead and used a little more blue in your mix though.

I'd recommend wet sanding with a really fine grit though. If you use something to rough you get kinda crumbly tearing stuff going on due to the rubbery nature of the material.

Sanding is totally fine with GS though.

There is another putty commonly called brown stuff that most sculptors prefer for hard edges and mechanical stuff since it dries harder and you can work with it in a similar fashion to what I described with the milliput.

For your general purpose sculpting on conversions and the like you're fine if you stick with GS though.

>>47713529
Yeah i didn't put any effort into this picture. I took it because a friend wanted to see my models. Only posted it here because it was what i had on hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUBtItceuec

Good to see St. Duncan isn't dead.

>>47714361
YES! YES! PRAISE DUNCAN!

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i found a cool way to base this rackham nemesis clone. one of my gaming friends also has one so we challenged eachother to a paint off

>>47713245
definitely trying to crane my neck to get the best view of your blurry, run-of-the-mill, basecoated nonsense

>>47713342
just starting? Google: color theory and click the first link. read it. continue your work with a better understanding of the colours you're using and how they work together.
Grey is a good base for reds.
Brown is a good base for yellow.
Black for darker resulting models, white for brighter schemes, but remember that you can paint grey or brown over that black or white before continuing with the main colours over top.
Google zenith priming as well.

>>47714415
I don't think I've seen rackham in these threads before.

Cute idea. Please tell me you didn't glue the plastic before priming it.

>>47713598
you don't HAVE to engage the argument.
and you'd just be sharing my opinion. I imagine logic doesn't win these folks over anyway.

>>47713795
Yessssss. Keep us posted

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Early shot of a salvage project.
Decided to practice my black highlights on it before I paint Overwatch.
Still mostly just blocking out colors though.

>>47713795

What's that recipe, Haven't painted the Acolytes yet for fear of painting (human) skin

>>47712818

You probably aren't trying to paint it over black in one coat

Newfag here. If I want to prime a model black (since most of the model will be dark,) but have some pale skin exposed, should I find a way to obstruct the exposed bits while priming and then somehow get white primer on that part? Or is going all black just fine?

>>47714990
just base those parts by hand after priming.
either go from brown or grey depending how pale you are going and paint the skin color on top of that.

that kind of masking only really makes sense when you are using an airbrush. With a spray can you don't have nearly enough control over what you are doing.

>>47714990
You should ideally leave the head unglued and paint it separately, priming it white or something.

Masking might be tough if there isn't a clean straight line to the head, but it's worth a shot. Personally I'd just prime black and not worry about it. Simply do an extra layer or two of brown, which goes on fairly easily over black, then your flesh paint will go on easily over brown.

>>47714962
No, I am not, because that is a poor way of doing it. Hence my alternative offerings.
And for the record, I have painted red over black perfectly fine in 2 or 3 coats max with Mephiston Red and Mechrite Red.
But, the smart way to do it would be to lay down a base of medium to light grey over that black and then paint the red over that.
Or, if doing yellow, do a base of a warm brown over the black first.
Work smart, not hard/bad.

>>47715048
>>47715051
Alright cool. The heads came connected, so I don't really have that option, but I'll know if I ever end up with that opportunity to do that.

I suppose the same logic for painting separately applies when there's a part that would obstruct the model otherwise.

>>47714990
no, you would do a thin coat of the BASE to the colour you want to build up to.
So, like Bugmans Glow or Ratskin Flesh as the base and thinly build up to the end colour you desire.
Sometimes I use a medium grey mixed with a purple as the base of my more grim skins. I might do a grey/brown/green mix for the base on undead or very unhealthy skin. But very thin washes in key areas before the final highlights also really help to add depth. Like, a thin purple/red/both under the eyes, etc.

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Painting up stuff for my Guildball team while I wait for my resin bases.

>>47715071
i am planning on doing yellow stuff and read about this brown basecoating a lot,but i never understood:
why brown and not white?
would zandri dust work as a yellowish brown?
i would like my yellow to be as bright as possible so i am asking to understand better

>>47715284
>why brown and not white?
simple answer is that you get a more even result by using successively brighter colors.
If you paint white over black you will get some splotchy areas.
In the end it doesn't matter if you paint 4 passes of white and then do yellow, or work your way up through a dark and medium brown to a tan to your yellow.
I really depends more on your painting style and what you can do with your paints.
If you got a chalky white with bad coverage using brown is just easier.

Does it matter to the final result? Yeah it can affect how it looks. Does it mean one way is inherently better than the other? No.

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>>47714403
>YES! YES! PRAISE DUNCAN!

May He watch over us all.

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Muh worn bronze

>>47715284

brown means if you go too thin or miss spots it'll look like a shadow, whereas white will just look wrong

>>47715317
ah right, i expressed myself poorly, i meant priming white vs brown over black primer. WOuld painting yellow be easier on a brown coat than on a white primer?

>>47715382
damn, that's a nice color.
I love how dark it looks, proper ancient tech

>>47712774
I don't believe you need a banner for it but why not check and see if it looks good?

>>47715382
Church/10

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>>47715382
did you really put a church on that base?

>>47715372
>May He watch over us all.
maybe not the best idea. pic related.

>>47715388
If you prime white you simply circumvent the work of layering up to something you can use as base for yellow.
Yellow tends to be kind of transparent since the pigment in most yellow paints is not that strong.

Essentially the same thing applies, the question is just do you have more areas that are gonna be yellow than not on the finished model.
Painting black over white is easy, painting white over black is a pita.

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>>47715382
wouldpurgehereticswith/10

>>47715427
>>47715440
I did it for church anon, although I'm fairly new to WIP generals so I might be missing a meme
>>47715423
thanks, was a fucking nightmare pushing warplock bronze, hashut copper and fulgrite copper through an airbrush though, the worn look was actually an accident that I just went with.

>>47715485
>>47715385
thank you both, i will be priming white as usual then, since i like the brightness it grants, hoping i will be able to make the yellow even

>>47715284

You go from darker to lighter, not darker to lighter then darker.

Anons, in your expert opinion, is Leadbelcher steel colored or silver colored?

I think my friend might be color blind despite being pretty damn good.

>>47715763
Steel.

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Relatively new guy here.
How would I go about recreating the base of this model?
I know it most likely just sand glued onto a regular base and primed and uses has a layer of Skarsnik Green, but what paint is it based and drybrushed with?

Same guy as >>47715897

Do you guys think a using a base of Waaagh! Flesh for the base and Niblet Green drybrush would be good?
Should I stick with Skarsnik Green or should I use something like Warboss Green? A combination of the two?
Opinions please, I'm fumbling around in the dark here.

>>47716361
use a lellow. it will look greenish. and the very topps will be right.

>>47713795
Can you please give a run down on how you achieved that skin? It looks fantastic.

About to get my copy of silver tower, and want to achieve a similar quality

>>47716481
You mean for the drybrush, right?
So I something like Hexos Palesun instead of the Niblet Green?

With new rule changes, I'm highly motivated to make a primarchs wrath Bolter captain for my fists. Anyone have some good ranged captain inspiration laying about?

>>47715488
this is fantastic, but that jacket is amazing

>overcoated with black primer
>model is white and silver
This isn't going to end well, is it?

Currently trying to get the the cloak to turn out white, thinned out some valejo white and put a good layer on it, going to see how it drys and try and do it again where it came out poorly.

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>>47716538

>>47717034

Do grey then white.

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>>47715897
>How would I go about recreating the base of this model?

1). Glue fine basing sand to base
2). Paint Warboss Green
3). Drybrush tips of simulated grass with a mixture of Warboss Green and whatever yellow (Yriel or Flash Gitz are both good) you have handy

... and Bob's yer uncle!

>>47715388
It's easier on white. But you wont get the shade in the recess unless you go back and do it yourself.

Go look at a bunch of yellow minis. You can see the people that just do a flat yellow VS those that get some nice shading in there.

You can bandaid with washes though. Just depends how much you care.

If you want pure easy mode you just rattle can some yellow, wash it then basic edge highlight. Then do your other details. But like I said it can look funny if you don't go back and shade.

>>47717067
I'm the new guy, I currently only have black primer and I have to pull the trigger on an airbrush before I buy more.

Fourth mini from me is coming out tonight hopefully, first of a two part commission for my friend.

>>47714361
>10 dislikes already

Who the fuck are these faggots who subscribe to GW just to dislike the video?

So when I was newer I did my Terminators in yellow (a darker more golden yellow) on a grey primer and it wasn't that bad but now trying to do the same yellow on large flat surfaces of a white primer is actually hell.

I am thinning as instructed on youtube but these brushstrokes are real. My LGS owner even gave me a free Large Citadel Base Brush because I was going to try and do it with a much smaller one.

>think i have four of a weapon in my bits box
>only have three
damn it

>>47717351

Just slop on tons of yellow wash or glaze instead. If you fuck it up and it doesn't look smooth you can just paint yellow on top of that.

>>47717372
I have never used glazes the right way but it may worth a shot.
Hopefully I get a game this weekend so I have an excuse to run back to the shop.

I'm currently trying to figure out how to do leprosy on skin, does anyone have any advice or suggestions? I'm trying to make it for my zealot rabble but I'm not really good enough to greenstuff something like that.

So I was curious. Would it be a good idea to wash the model pieces right after all the mold line cleanings, cuttings, sawings, and general clean up work to wash off all the excess dust and shaving?

>>47717655

I'm a neat freak who always washes oil and dirt off my hands but I think it'd be a bad idea in general to get all that release agent on your tools, hands, other models, and work station. Just rinse them first thing you do, before even cleaning or cutting them off.

>>47717655
you can brush/blow the dust off fairly easily

it could be used to eliminate the oils from handling the parts during cleanup, but unless you have really greasy hands it seems like a wasted effort to me.

>>47717675
I did that, but should I bother washing them off after the cleaning and cutting and prepping (right before actually priming/gluing, ect) or will a stiff puff be enough to clear them off?

>>47717713

I just use a clean toothbrush and canned air or my breath to blow off shavings.

>>47713795
Are you the guy that posted on the 40k subreddit with your acolyte a while back? Your skin looks familiar and I love it.

>>47717351
It could be the brush. Do you have access to something higher quality to test?

Not the anon that asked the question, but fuck me I always forget to do give it a brief rinse after I've become obsessed with cleaning it up. Always get that fine grit that shows up just a little bit underneath the paint that's only noticeable to me.

>>47717151
You don't have to be subbed to react to something.

Either way it increases the video visibility. All interactions do.

>>47715897
That's a base painted green and then flock put on it. It was how people based in 2nd edition

>>47717780
>It could be the brush
But the brush is brand new. This is the first paint Ive used it for. It seems as good as the brushes I was buying from the Arts and Crafts Store.

I think it is the long flat areas of these fliers.

>>47717826

He's probably implying your brush isn't high quality. Maybe try thinning with acrylic medium or flow improver instead of water. Yellow is supposed to be a hard color to paint no matter what but I've never experienced the problems people tend to have. I just do a couple thin layers and it turns yellow.

>>47717627
If you have a pin vice (little hand drill) you can drill into the skin just a little in a few patches.

Then brush just a tiny amount of plastic glue to melt and soften the edges.

Works for corrosion on metal too.


Do it on sprue peices first till you get the hang of it though as it's obviously a destructive process.

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>>47717846
I am thinning with Lahmian Medium from Citadel. The brush and paints (mostly everything I use for hobbying) is Citadel as well.

Are citadel brushes not good?

The brushes I started with, only use a few of them still.

>>47717655
It's not a terrible idea. Just warm soapy water and a soft tooth brush will do the trick.

>>47717879
Anon, do yourself a favor and buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465614933&sr=8-1&keywords=master%27s+brush+cleaner

Also, Lahmian Medium doesn't necessarily thin paints, but it does make them flow better.

>>47717879

Citadel brushes aren't great but they're not bad. You shouldn't be having any problems so I don't know what's going wrong.

Citadel brushes are probably much better than generic art store brushes since GW started making all their brushes sable.

>>47717879
Silly question but you're not leaving them in the water are you?

>>47717826
It is a citadel brush so it's not going to be super great.

There are other things you can try like >>47717846 said.

What if the idea of painting minis appeals to me but I don't want to give GW my life savings?

>>47717932
Go on Ebay or scout for local yard sales. If you get lucky you'll hit a gold mine of some guys old minis in a yard sale for only five bucks.

>>47717894
I have a feeling I'm using this shit wrong because it has done nothing for my brushes.

>>47717932
Don't be a fucking retard and buy multiple boxes at once?

>Expecting a hobby to be cheap

Why do poorfags do this?

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>>47715440

>earning the dubious moniker 'Light Brigade'

I have a new goal.

WIP 1/2

>>47717932
Didn't you ask this in the last thread and get an answer?

Simply buy your favourite thing from any random company and paint it. It isn't hard.

>>47717932
the give your life savings to another company and paint those models. still gonna cost you a comparable number of $s.

>>47717962
they probably just complain about anything and everything

>>47717968
Oh noes spoopy ghost!

Try to get some more flesh tone in there so he isn't so washed out by the light sourcing.

>>47717932

there's lots of other companies that produce miniatures, if you want really cheap check out reaper bones

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>>47717968

WIP 2/2

Just a few more details and the base to go

>>47717894
Is it really worth getting for such a small thing? I've been cleaning them with a dry shampoo or soapy dish water.

>>47717900
I am just a shitty painter I think.

I built most of my army using Already Assembled minis besides my first lot and some monopose shit. These three fliers are the first things I have had to put together myself in a while.

>>47717912
Some of the very first brushes I bought used with my very first 40k lot I did but they were the old wooden handle with colored tip on the end and have now been decommissioned.

>>47717962
It's not even an expensive hobby, I'm a poor fag and have thousands of models from over the years.
Hobbies get waaay more expensive than this.

>>47717962
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoovPge1Rq4

>>47718022
Very. It'll last you a GOOD while.

>>47718022
>I've been cleaning them with a dry shampoo or soapy dish water.

Jesus christ no!

>>47718022

It is worth it. I'm not that guy but myself and thousands of other painters use this product. It's a couple bucks for one cake that lasts forever and comes in a neat self contained screw tub.

It not only cleans your brushes but helps keep them sharp and save old damaged brushes.

Don't use regular soap, that will ruin any brushes you have made of natural sable or hairs. The harsh oils from soap and dishwasher liquid will strip the natural oils and make your brushes stiff and brittle. Only use these detergents on acrylic plastic brushes. The brush cleaner is a gentle soap with a conditioner meant for brush hairs.

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>>47714887
Got some more work done. What should I do with the ammo cartridges on the right arm?

>>47718090
stop wasting time asking and JUST DO IT
it's a magazine, just paint it how you think then judge it or ask here if you *honestly* have no clue.

>>47717961
>>47717978
>>47718008
Thanks

>>47717975
No, it's the first time I post here IIRC


>>47717962
I live on a third world shithole you shitlord

I'm not sure they're even sold here, probably not outside of the very largest cities. What to you may seem like a reasonably priced hobby would be a fucking money sink to me, and I'm not precisely poor by my country's standards

>>47718189
How the fuck am I supposed to know where you live, you fucking shitboot?

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>>47718133
I wouldn't have asked if I had any idea what to do.
Black seems boring since the model is mostly black, any sort of metallic is going to look out of place.
I suppose I could go with more red but that doesn't seem right either.

FUCK ME FOR LOOKING FOR INPUT RIGHT

>>47718133
This nigga is right, just do it. We don't know what you mean when you're asking what to do with it, do you want to change it or are you just asking what to paint it?

>>47718229
I didn't expect you to, therefore why I called you a shitlord rather than calling you a fucking shitboot. It's a meme, friend.

>>47718189
What country?
If painting is your only interest there's probably a bunch of companies that make way nicer models for cheaper available to you.

If it's spain you'd be in luck.

>>47718189

ah shipping might kill most of the reaper cheapness then, depending which 3rd world shithole you might have locally produced stuff

My new bottle of Valejo Dead White has like, grit in it. What do I do about this?

>>47718241
That gold/brass looking colour you have on other spots.
Put a black line running down it if you want to break it up a bit.

>>47718309
Argentina actually. At least we coincide in language

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Dear WIP fags, I find myself in need of your sage advice.

Allow me to give some context first though. You see, I DM a PF campaign for some close friends and for combat we use mini's. I've been collecting WH for years so my collection can provide everything except models for the PCs.
Those I buy, convert and paint specifically for the game after consulting with the player on the model and colours used.

A player recently rejoined us after a two year absence and his new PC is basically an Arthurian knight in shining armor, riding a dinosaur because he looked at one power metal album too many.

The model's based on a Dark Elf Dreadlord on Cold One, with the body and head from the Empire Greatswords and the arms and swords from the Empire Captain.
I'm reasonably pleased with it, but I'm having some trouble with the colour scheme.
The player picked "muted gold and Italian racing red" as the colours of his heraldry but didn't care about the colour of the dino.

I took a photo and Photoshopped it to work out some ideas (yellow substituting for gold) but I'm having trouble deciding which scheme for the dino to go with.

Second pic to follow

>>47718309
>If painting is your only interest there's probably a bunch of companies that make way nicer models for cheaper available to you.

Don't count on it if you're looking for 28mm non-historical. The only ones cheaper are different scale and/or genre.

For some reason the 28mm heroic/sci-fi/fantasy market is super expensive compared to the others. It's not just GW. PP, Infinity, AoW, RH, DA are all expensive.

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>>47718355
Second pic, this dino is green instead of brown.

>>47718355
>>47718368

brown

but feathered would be the absolute best

>>47717968
Blueberry, my absolute favorite flavour of librarian.

>>47715897
Does that bolter have a telescopic stock?

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>>47718034
>Hobbies get waaay more expensive than this.

If I took all the GW merchandise in my collection and sold it on eBay for good prices, I could probably buy one of these purebred show dogs...

... but no way could I afford *two*!

>>47718414

Yes because the old model it's based on had one. They had wire stocks too I think.

Stocks that the marine never uses...

>>47718343
Of course it was gonna be the argenmierda gaucho the one complaining about the price,

Suck it up and spend that money or just don't get in the hobby, but just don't try to do everything cheap and mediocre, Even if you're accustomed to it. This hobby has an entry price point, and it ain't dirt cheap.

Waiting on bases to come in for My Orcs and Goblins for AoS. Gonna have to rebase everything. Don't know what color I want to go with for my Army though. When I was originally painting it I had Blue feathers as a theme on the goblins, but now that I'm adding orcs and Night goblins into the army I think i may want to branch out into something else. I just don't wanna do pink or yellow for a bit. Any suggestions that would go nicely with that orky green?

>>47718343
Well check out infinity by corvis beli.
Reaper are a general option.

Being south America makes it a bit harder.
There's plenty about, we have some companies in the OP see if you can find some local suppliers.

Also there is always tons of facebook groups for second hand stuff.

>>47718424
Upkeep on a high maintenance animal is going to be considerably worse than that of some wargaming miniatures, though.

>>47715261
Where did you get those little leaves

>>47718483
I think he was agreeing with me.

So that would reenforce the point.

>>47715261
>>47718506

Ooh I am also keen to know.

>>47718396
Feathered would be best, but my GS skills aren't up to that challenge. Or any challenge beyond gap-filling and covering "oh shit my file slipped" marks.

Also, GW called them Cold Ones. I guess a nice down blanket was lost during the design.

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>>47718431
>Yes because the old model it's based on had one. They had wire stocks too I think.

The old "Strike Force sprues (pic related) came with six shoulder pauldrons, three backpacks, three combat knives, and three Phobos-pattern bolters with stocks. Yes, most of the time, you ended up cutting the stock off.

>>47718483
>Upkeep on a high maintenance animal is going to be considerably worse than that of some wargaming miniatures, though.

Indeed! Purina Pro Plan is *not* cheap!

>>47718559
>>47718506

Basecrafts maybe? A couple companies all make fallen autumn leaves in 28mm.

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>>47718506
>>47718559

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/310-miniature-leaf-punch-punches.html

>>47718622
Oh lovely. Thanks kind anon.

>>47713795
very clean, nicely done

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Requesting aid

How do I make it look like this cloak was dragged through blood at the hem?

This is nothing but a base coat atm, over a really bad primer job.

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So heres the progress on my Masked Rider Ork. All the weapons laying about him have been magnetized for his arm (first time using magnets too!), so he can swap out weapons, next stage is to work on the scarf so that it fits and looks nice around his fat Orky neck

>>47718704
Maybe take your blood paint and water it down a lot and kind of soak the end of the cape in the paint? If it's dragging through and just soaking in the blood it shouldn't be really dark

>>47718704

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TRBq7GVnJM

He does a technique where he drags the brush along the blade. That might help.

>>47718712
Nice, the combination of that zoggin' 'uge gun and the slugga made me chuckle

>>47718782
Yeah, I didn't want to bog him down with a lot of weapon options, so it was either the deffgun, or a buzzsaw, and then I remembered, he's a zoggin' Ork, and having a fuck off big gun for an arm is pretty much priority.

Seeing plasticard and green stuff conversions before they're primered or painted is like seeing a hot woman before they put on their makeup.

>>47718813

I'd say it's more like seeing a clock without its case.

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Update on test model. Did the base colour (still needs a few touch ups) to test the colour scheme I was thinking of. Tested out some of base stuff (hence why base stuff is worked on long before the miniature itself is 100% done.

For whatever reason, when one or two rocks touched the glue they turned black.

>>47718813
I love seeing them, because they allow me to really see the inner workings of particularly complicated conversions, so I can see how the creator used the plasticard and plastic tubing. And seeing modeling work with greenstuff is neat to see too.

>>47718858
The thumbnail makes it look like he's completely naked except for a banana hammock and his hat.

>>47718341
I'll give it a shot. Good looking out.

>tfw enjoying building my METAL BAWKS more than my actual marines

is this a sign i should have gone with mech-guard?

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>>47718940
No. You've just been taken over by the spirit of the boxserker.

>>47718962
Next stop: building METAL BAWKS from inside a metal box while wearing boxing gloves.
For the true box aficionado

>>47718962
sorry i meant a rhino
not those silly things

>>47718241
fuck you for posting procrastination shitposts, yes. there are such thing as stupid questions.

>>47718483
you say 'though' yet you are just agreeing

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>>47718999
Your words anger the boxserker.

>>47719144
...
i may need to buy some of these dumb boxes now

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>>47719159
Your words please the boxserker.

I'm actually just a big fan of terrain and fortifications in general, desu.

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Mini 4

I may have been a bit ambitious for my skill level

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>>47719337
And backside

>>47719350
Waaaay too much. Like the bottom 8th at most.

You also want to feather it rather than just use wash. It just looks like he fell in a vat of waist high cordial.

>>47719384
explain more what you mean when you say feather it

But I had to consider that my friend who I'm painting this for is basically a chuuni so his reaction is probably going to be "Dude, that's so much blood. That's metal as fuck"

I'll see about doing it better on the second try.

Which means I'm probably going to be keeping this particular cleric, since he chooses the better of the two.

>>47719415

what's a chuuni?

>>47719337
>>47719350
Nigga.....


NIGGA.

>>47719469
Japanese term for 8th Grader Syndrome

Someone who loves stupid, edgy shit.

>>47719483
?

>>47719337
Oh jesus, I just looked at his hand again, and saw the overpaint I did on the chain. That looks fucking terrible. And I don't think there's even anything I can do about the hand.

Learning experience I suppose, so it goes.

Good minis wouldn't be impressive if it didn't take time to get good, and this is at least good enough that I'll put it on a table.

>>47719337
>>47719350
Unless he's wading through a literal ocean of gore, his cape, it shouldn't be anywhere that high.

>>47719492
Thin....thin the paint.

Please.

>>47719728
Most of what you're seeing isn't unthinned paint, but the fact that I fucked up the primer so colossally badly. Sprayed too close and thought it was a good idea to get every nook and cranny. Went on so thick that the primer actually cracked during drying. Tried to scrub it off and put a fresh, thin coat on, but it didn't work so well

And then there were numerous spots where I just fucked up painting enough that I had to put too many layers on. I'm trying to adjust the colors of citadel paints with valejo paints, which are substantially thinner, and I'm struggling with consistency and runnyness.

Also putting white paint on black primer is hard, especially when the primer rubs off on my fingers even if it's dried for two days, and I keep accidentally getting black fingerprints on the white cape.

So... can you... stop using... ellipses...?

>>47719700
see >>47719415

Also, he could have fallen

I caved and bought an ultrasonic cleaner. I've got a handful of marines in a 1:1 simple green to water. After 8 more 3 minute cycles I will rinse one off and post a pic

>>47719896
>Ultrasonic cleaner

Explain.

>>47719977
it vibrates a fluid, sometimes water, usually a cleaning fluid, which shakes all the mess free, in this case simple green vibrating off the paint

>>47719977
>doesn't know what an ultrasonic cleaner is

Bro do you even vibrate rapidly?

>>47719977
a small 30 dollar device intended for cleaning jewelry and other stuff. It vibrates.

You put liquid and the things you are cleaning, then turn it on. This model shuts off automatically after 3 minutes. I want it to run for 30 minutes, so 10 cycles.

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>>47719991
>a small device
>It vibrates
>You put liquid
>then turn it on

>>47719984
>>47719985
>>47719991
Learn something new every day.

GOD BLESS TECHNOLOGY

>>47720011
then what?

>>47720011
no vibrator I've ever owned has had a compartment that can fit a tactical squad

>>47720038
>I want it to run for 30 minutes

>>47720070

You put the tactical squad in your vagina/anus, Anonymous. Then you use the vibrator to ram them in like you're loading a musket.

>>47719896
Patiently awaiting. Just got my guys out of a 3 day dunk in simple green and there's STILL some paint on them here and there. I guess what I use for primer is really good.

>>47720084
nah

>>47720094

OH SO ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU'RE THE EXPERT AT ANAL MINIATURE ARTILLERY?!

>>47720088
it's weird

I had a model with 10+ layers of unthinned paint, with at least three of those layers being spraypaint on way too thick in undiluted simple green for two months and it only got down to the 6th layer or so.

but then a more recent model went in some rubbing alcohol for 5 minutes and scrubbed clean, white primer and all. I've never seen rubbing alcohol remove primer before.

Anyway, cycle 8 should be finishing up soon.

>>47720129
I diluted it with some water to "activate" the soap. And using an electric toothbrush, I managed to break a few pieces and end up with lots of very minor "eat away" on the models.

>>47720106
nah

>>47720129
Any progress on how it looks? Visible paint off?

>>47720129
oh em gee I cannot wait to hear all about cycle 9!

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>>47720157
30 minutes and some scrubbing removed most of the paint. Not a super clean like I would like, but for that I will probably have to use super clean.

>>47720286
Hey, it takes a hell of a lot less time for better results than mine.

>>47717091
What are you talking about? Washes are shades

>tfw you put a tactical squad in a tub of simple green about 7-8 months ago and cant find it

I've moved house about 3 times since I put them in, so they're probably in a box somewhere, but I'm kinda scared of what I'll see even if I do find them ;_;

>finally finish putting my rhino together
>can see finger oils all over it
i knew i had oily skin but fucking christ
warm soapy water will clean that off yeah?

>>47718622
Holy shit this place is a goldmine.

>>47720286
>using a rhino cupola as a storm/combat shield
That's fucking genius, I'm totally doing that.

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my orks wip, taking any and all advice!

>>47720353
you'll see some space marines still caked in paint

>>47720409
I like the deff dread. How do you plan to base them?

>>47720409
You've done a fantastic job on the metal bits, in fact I'd even ask for tips on how you did those.

The issue I see is with the skin. The arms look semi-fine, but the faces are very glaringly off. From my guess, you are only using two colors for the skin, and the second color is just far too off from the base, not a smooth transition, and the highlighting on the face is a bit all over the place, makes it look like your Orks have some kind of skin disease.

>>47713795
Nice flesh brah.

>>47720409
Doesn't look like the placement of the highlighting on the faces correlate much to the actual topography of them.

>>47718712
Crop your picture anon. Every phone either has a built in edit option to do it or can download a light app to do it.

>>47720461
I didn't realize the edge wasn't cropped until after I posted it.

>>47720409
its weird, because your deff dredd and the armour are all awesome, but the flesh bits are fucking terrible, might want to find a tutorial for ork skin

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For the Warmaster! Lupercal!

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>>47720465
No problem then if it was a mistake ad not just laziness.


Anons, am I remembering correctly that Windsor and Newton Series 7 are *the* best brushes to get?
I've finally learned some good discipline with keeping my brushes in decent quality by not letting the paint get up to the metal shoulder and proper cleaning.
My collection of brushes over the past 8 years is like 30 brushes now with at least 12 of them being completely fucked... but that was from my beginnings. Most of them are Humbrol because you get a decent set of 4 synthetics for £4.

I may get a double payday this month so I could drop a decent amount on a set of good brushes.
I was thinking from sizes 00 to 4.

Looking for any advice.
Will get some of pic related if I did get new brushes, despite my concerns it is repackaged skub.

>>47720500
Majority rule seems to be that W&N series 7 brushes are the cats pajamas. I personally got a couple Army Painter brushes, which are neat cause they have triangle shaped handles.

>>47720426
>>47720433
>>47720459
>>47720474
thanks, these are my first minis, not an excuse ofc, ill try to fix the skin paints, the middle nob is almost finished but barely touched the ones on the side. metal bits i do by first washing the edges with nuln oil, then just do random small strokes with ironbreaker to make chipped look, try not to make anythign too symmetrical, then wash with nuln oil again the metallic bits. dunno if this helps. i havent decided on basing yet, our local retail shop has very little basing materials to choose from, ill me going to london soon and find my self a GW retail shop and buy basing materials from there. Also gonna get a Death korps of krieg army started soon

>>47720500
>Anons, am I remembering correctly that Windsor and Newton Series 7 are *the* best brushes to get?

I have a pair. It's good shit.

I also have a slightly cheaper W&N sable hair brush. It's good shit.

Is the S7 better? Uhm, hm, maybe.

So whether the series 7 price is worth it, hm, hard to say. But then again, brushes last a while, so it won't be a major expense all said and done.

Also, my sample size of two S7 and one "normal" isn't exactly great.

One thing I noticed with these good brushes compared to the pretty cheap synthetic hair ones I've used before is that since the tips are so much finer, I go up a few brush sizes for the same work compared to the cheaper brush.

I don't see much use for a brush of every size from 00 to 4, but if it works for you...

>>47720500

Raphael 8404 are better. W&N S7 are second best.

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I don't adore the classic mounted wight king so I thought I'd use the Dark Marshal from lotr as a stand-in, one can only hope it doesn't look too ass.

>>47720541
>ill me going to london soon and find my self a GW retail shop and buy basing materials from there
GW basing materials are nice, but you can also use all kinds of stuff to base. I like to use a mixture of spare bits, pepples, baking soda, and super glue.

Most basing materials you will want to apply before painting though

>>47720608
>>47720575
>>47720525

Thanks anon. Looking at the Raphael brushes too, they seem cool.

Trying to save some older brushes in the meantime.
A couple with dried paint stuck at the base of the bristles.
Got one soaking in acetone to see what happens.
They are synthetic so I expect it will fuck them completely and damage the bristle, but it can't hurt to try on one.

>>47720433
I think the colours he picked are very fine, i like the contrast,but you are right his highlights are all over the place.

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wip of yan lo

>>47713795
Nearly finished building it. Added a few heroes to the box (Auric Runemaster, Necromancer, Battlemage, Wight King, Lord of Plagues) and converting the second Pink Horror with some books and scrolls.

Painting it this summer.

overall the performance of simple green varied wildly. Some models were pretty clean, others it barely affected, while some just had the paint get goopy then re-harden. It takes a lot of scrubbing, and doesn't ever get the model pristine.

I am afraid to try Super Clean because it causes nasty chemical burns, but I just want clean models without too much hassle.

>>47720851
mostly very nice, but it seems like you have some dust caught in your paint/primer which definitely throws things off a little

>>47720851
That's a lot of shit in the paint. And Motörhead concert noise levels, you'd think it was photographed on 200 grit film.

Any idea on how to kitbash servitors?

I bought the new Enginseer clampack since it seemed like it could be a pretty good Techmarine proxy in my Flesh Tearers/Skitarii army, but I'm not sure how I'd make his servitors.
The only spare heavy weapon bits I have are Grav Cannons since BA are fucking worse than trash and can't take them in any form.

Anyone have any experience or advice in this regard?

Anyone have a good recipe/guide for leather pouches, belts and the like?

>not painted for 10 years
>collected 40k
>always wanted to do WHFB
>vaguely knew about AoS
>didn't know they gutted the actual range of miniatures available

I'm so disappointed it hurts.

>>47720917

Rubbing alcohol isn't caustic and strips pretty fast. Don't soak them too long though.

>>47721112
I've used it before, but it doesn't seem to remove must stubborn primers

>>47721102
I really wanted to get into WHFB too. I nearly caved and started my army literally days before AoS dropped.

The only army that interested me was Tomb Kings.
I still want to play them but it'll never be I guess.

>>47721102
What do you mean 'gutted'? You can still buy most of the old minis in GW stores or at the worst in other tabletop stores. A lot of the models haven't even been changed yet.

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Not really a WiP. But could be very soon.
Managed to get this lot for £10 at a car boot sale yesterday. The grey knights are 99% still on the sprue, the paints are all in good condition.
I'm torn though. Should I sell the grey knights or should I build them?

>>47721180
GK sucks and got pretty bland with their 7th edition codex, sell them.

>>47721163

I've only checked the website so far, I assumed my local Gamesworkshop's range would have reflected that. That's a relief.

>>47721163
Less than half the range still exists, battalions are gone and two entire armies have been wiped off

>>47721205
Oh right. Do nids still suck? Thats all i've ever had in 40k and I have A LOT. I sold all my paints to fund motorbike parts, was quite happy to get some paints yesterday. Might get back to painting them. Bit pointless if they're rubbish though. Gamesworkshop just seems to annoy everyone.

>>47721260
Nids still suck. Unless you take 4+ flyrants. But they're still only OK at that point

>>47721209
Yes and no. It depends what armies are still currently available. All armies have rules in the new book and a lot of the old boxes are still there, but armies like Tomb Kings aren't currently available (I'm guessing they're doing something with them because they gave rules and have hinted at it).

>>47721283
Probably worth just selling everything I have then?
I think I like the concept of this hobby, just not the execution.

>>47721180
I doubt you'll get much for the sprue unless you put a ton of effort into selling it (each bit type in lots on ebay), and even this I doubt you'd make very much profit out of it considering your initial investment.

I'd keep and paint 'em just for varieties sake, as they're pretty fun set to work with. At the very least you could just use their bits for conversions, terrain, or dioramas. The box comes with a ton of bitz you could easily use as rare stuff like Force Staves, Power Lances, two-handed Power Swords, Wrist-Mounted Storm Bolters, Artificer Armor, Heavy Flamers, etc.
It's a veritable treasure trove.

>>47721297
Yeah, I'd just get rid of it all at this point.

>>47721297
'Nids might be getting a new codex soonish so I'd at least wait until that drops to decide on if your sell or not.

There's not much holding them back from entering the mid tier of armies, so it's likely that the fixes that they do get will fairly easily bump them up into it; they mainly just need to get a few things cost dropped and a few things buffed up on top of getting the standard goodies that have all come standard with the newer 'dexes.

Even without an update, there's a lot of armies on the same or similar power level as them such as CSM, BA, DE, and Guard. All these armies are in the low tier atm, but are still perfectly playable.

Just hope your new codex doesn't give you the same treatment as Orks.
Dear God, those poor unfortunate souls...

>>47721359
Even armies like guard and CSM can be good, it's just more restrictive in comp play.
Also this is /wip/, not /40kg/

>>47721121
Rubbing alcohol is around 70 proof most of the time. As mentioned earlier in this thread you need 96 proof.

>>47721373
Fair enough, but hasn't competitive 40k always lacked variability in terms of army composition and strategy for the most part?
Does 40k 7e just have less variability when compared to the editions of the game that preceded it?
I'm legit asking, I don't play 40k competitively and I'm relatively new to the game anyway so I honestly don't know.

>>47721373
It depends, really. If your opponent is using formations, Any pre-necron codex is fucked. CSM and BA won't stand a chance against Gladius, Decurions, Tau/farsight formations, or even ravenwing formations. DE at least have some decent formations with haemunculus covens.

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Start my IF's standart bearer.

>>47721487
What are you using for the basing?

>>47721453
At the ultra-competitive tier it has that issue, it's far from the most balanced game. It's not worthwhile just throwing out or selling units just because they're sub-optimal, though, since it's more important to have fun than winning. Especially if you're into the more /wip/ side.

>>47721487
>Standart bearer
>No Standart in picture

0/10 wouldn't care to let fall

>>47721487
The paint could be thinner, the layers smoothers and you seem to have problems painting inside the lines, but that's a 10/10 chipping effect.

>>47719415
Sorry I went out.

You'd thin your paint down like crazy. This makes a glaze. You then paint this mostly transparent mix on in layers letting each dry fully between.
You apply more towards the bottom, this would give the desired effect.
Check out painting budda on youtube for a visual example.

does normal citidal plastic glue work on finecast?

>>47721824
it's not plastic so no.
You need superglue for that.

>>47721855
right-oh cheers, trying to get back into thehobby and never had anything finecast before

>>47721877
Yeah, finecast is basically GW's own special resin recipe.
So anything that works for resin should work for finecast.

>>47720409
As others have said the skin is way off.

But I would probably buy it if you told me they were nazi zombie orks.

>>47713795
Tell us how!

Is this thread mostly europers and aussies? Because there were like a hundred posts in the dead of night for america

>>47722065
Amerilard here, I just drank too much coffee and can't sleep. It's 4am here.

>>47722096
It's 7 on the east coast and I woke up for work and found my shitty mini buried after barely getting half a night's sleep.

>>47722065

Usually lot of bongs in anything with a Warhammer focus.

>>47722123
At least your army's getting worked on.
I only have one mini left on my "to build" backlog and the only reason it hasn't been already is because it's still in transit.

As for things I have to paint, I have over 9000 points worth of models.
Don't end up like me.
Save yourself.

>>47722150
Good thing I don't play 40k and I'm just painting for fun for D&D. I literally can't end up like you

Ignoring I still have 10 minis sitting next to my desk for painting.

>>47722162
God speed D&D anon,
God speed.

>>47717069
dude, just what in the world is wrong with your plastered, cemented models?

>>47722239
Are you talking about the textured paints? Not him,but it looks like badly priming or maybe the model itself has that texture.

>>47722239
What do you mean by "plastered, cemented"? Are you referring to the poses or the paint?
The poses is like that because the two models in the left are solid metal and were simply molded in the pose you see.
As for their paint (and the pose of the model on the right), he was intentionally going for a more retro look for his army, not the realistic look you see today.

His models look just fine.

do you have to do anything special to finecast before basing?

>>47722127
> Post another /wip/ from a bong

>>47722335
Glue a fucking Nickel to the base so the damn thing doesn't fall over every five fucking seconds.

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>glue together 700+ points of gray sm plastic boys
>spray them black
>paint them gray
>stare out window and consider hanging self
>gray highlight

>>47722360
When I was new I primed all my Death Company white.
I had 25 of them.

>>47714932
>>47716520
>>47721976
It's just Dwarf Skin base with a layer of Elf Skintone (Vallejo game colour names I'm afraid, I dunno what the GW equivalents are these days) the models are so detailed that most of the work is done for you to be honest.

>>47717769
Nope, not me.

>>47720911
I'm intimidated enough by just trying to paint the stuff that's in the basic box.

>>47722291
i mean it looks like he was priming them with sand

>>47722344
meant like base painting but thanks for the advice

>>47722459
Wash them thoroughly

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work continues on the Hellblade.

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No one responded, but how's me nob?

>>47713795
awesome! I started painting their skin as well using cadian flesh, but shit is not really covering the black primer, so I need to use like 2-3 layers until it covers properly.

>>47722656
He's got an undrilled barrel.

>>47722669
It took 2 solid layers and then a couple of thinned down ones over grey to get a good base on those guys, flesh tones seem to cover pretty badly regardless of what paint you're using I guess.

>>47722656
Looking good. The only thing I'd say is that when you use an enclosed armoured head for an ork they can look a little odd because there's not enough green skin on display. That's my own personal preference though, obviously.

>>47713342

>glossy
>primer

Wat

>>47714489

The game is dead, most of the models are "meh" and not a lot of people knew it ever existed in the first place.

>>47722752
You can get gloss primer, there's usually three types (matt, satin, gloss) when it comes to automotive spray primer.

I don't know what the specific uses of the non-matt types are though.

>>47722752
Viable if you were painting with chrome paint.

>>47718343

I am so sorry. Maybe you can make some out of clay, my black friend?