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WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General To me my Brothers

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WIP Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

To me my Brothers!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
https://mega.co.nz/#F!OgpwzAKS!a5eVE6pOagTTOWEr5tEaEQ

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.co.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo 0
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>This planet is ours, witch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_b-qBTul44

>Previous Thread:
>>46854217
>>
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I was planning to swap the xiphon wings like pic related. Do you think this is a good idea guys? I think the swept wings look better.
>>
>>46888458
>I think the swept wings look better.
Then do it like that you plonker, it's your model.
>>
>>46888507
>expecting recastfags to know how to do anything
>including buying recasts

They can't manage a single damn thing without spamming /tg/ for advice. Why do you expect any different now?
>>
I want to do either World Eaters or Death Guard as my next project, which one would be more fun to do? Death Guard would have heavy weathering, while World Eaters would have light weathering and heavy blood on the weapons.
>>
>>46888458
I like it. I think most FW flyers look awkward and boxy, and those wings make it look a little more nimble
>>
>>46887352
I'm liking the color scheme anon, looks sharp, but you should definitely be thinning your paints. Some simple basing would also go a long way toward improving them.
>>
>>46888548
I see an awful lot of DG around, people seem to like doing filfy weathering a lot. Would be nice to see well-executed gore on the World Eaters.
>>
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>>46888851
My first minis.
>>
>>46888851
Do they? I haven't noticed, but my idea of gore on World Eaters is splattering BFtBG on the armor and just drenching it on the blade part of the weapons.
>>
holy fuck I'm so sick of seeing sideways pictures here lately, nevertheless 4MB ones too

someone post the picture taking guide
>>
>>46888851
>>
>>46888898
Thin your paints.
>>
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>>46889122
Your wish is my command.
>>
>>46888898
Thin your paints, work on the freehand (Are those Red Templars?), needs more layering, and THIN YOUR FUCKING PAINTS.

All in all not a bad first effort.
>>
>>46889236
thanks, wish there was more about cropping/resizing/rotating though
>>
Have any of you ever tried to paint something to look like old Asian laquoured wood statues?

If so, any hints? Hoping to get my wraithguard to look positively ancient
>>
>>46889143
That's so nice, love it.
Base is a little dull for my liking, but still a great mini.
>>
>>46889278
G-Greek lettering...

Supposed to be Sanguine Shields
>>
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anyone have an easy and cheap guide to making snowy bases?
>>
>>46889877
>always wanting things to be both easy and cheap

Pick one, faggot, because baking powder snow looks like shit and yellows.
>>
>>46889613
Get out.

But srs, work on freehand.
>>
My camera is busted right now but I have a question.

My Marines are teal and I'm trying to decide what I want to do with their bolters.

I was thinking red bolters would look nice but I might be wrong.

Should I do red or stick with default black?
>>
I recently purchased around 20 citadel paints and all the citadel tools (sprue cutter, files, blades' drill etc) for 130 aussie dollars. Did i do good or did i get ripped off. Most paints are still sealed and the tools are in excellent condition
>>
>>46890253
>Buying GW tools

You fucked up, son.
>>
>>46888072
Okay, I need some serious help here; after spilling my pot of noln oil a little, the entire thing now runs blotchy and dries shiny. Will i just need to buy a whole new pot of paint, and if so, is there a cheaper but equal black wash? Or is there a way I can fix this?
>>
>>46890253
Paints are pretty good, sans liquid greenstuff. Never get that for greenstuffing.

tools, they're better than army painter's and while they're pretty expensive overall I'd say it's worth it. I've had my set for a couple years now and it's all working fine, despite roughhandling them quite frequently.

whereas the army painter cutter I bought snapped at the blade base two weeks into use. Nearly cut open my friend's neck when it flew off.
>>
>>46888898
I love your effort. You jumped in and you wasn't scary to try freehand.
Here are some advices:
-Use different colors on the bases, or they ll look one piece with the model.
-Work on your brush control. It isn't bad at all for a first try, but I see some smudges.
-Thin your paints with water (it's free). I know it sounds like a meme, but remember its is better to do more thin layers than a solid one.
-For the love of God, turn your pics. It's a few minute effort and ll prevent anger trown in your general direction.
-Last but not least, have fun while painting.
>>
>>46890336
If it's fucked up, just get another pot of Nuln. It's seriously 4.25 USD
>>
>>46890266

The sprue cutters look good, have a solid construction, and have a unique shearing feature, but yeah, they are overpriced and unnecessary. The drills, files, and especially the horrid box cutter are probably wastes. The only tool he really got screwed on was the knife.
>>
>>46890390
Any recommendations? The Sanguine Shields are meant to evoke Mad Max Macedonians. I there a way to paint sand or dry earth without blending in with their tan?
>>
>>46890336
>is there a cheaper but equal black wash?

It's black, so it's pretty easy to match. Vallejo black, Secret Weapons MIniature black, and the closest match, Army Painter dark tone (which is Badab Black, not Nuln Oil) are all cheaper.

If you spilled your pot before shaking it, you're screwed. If you shook it well then spilled, the remaining mixture should still have enough medium and pigment in it to be a normal wash, and any shininess or frosting is due to you not shaking or painting the wash on right/letting it pool.

But if you had an unshaken pot and spilled it, you may have spilled the majority of the binder or the pigment, leaving a useless pot behind as it'll be all pigment/no binder or all binder/no pigment.
>>
>>46888898
No worse than my first. Others have covered it well, so I'm going with other comments;
-Choose a light undercoat for light colours, it'll help with even colours.
-Highlighting would breathe a lot of life into these guys
-When people say thin your paints, what they mean is that you rushed and put thick paint on to try to colour the mini, when multiple lighter, diluted coats would make a far more consistent layers.
-Use washes or inks, they really bring out the details
-Little designs like on your Marine's legs work doubly well when you do multiple coats for a more solid colour. Additionally, it looks like you might have too much paint on the brush when you are painting.

Altogether, it's not a lack of potential that's holding you back, it's technique, which can be learned with a bit of guidance. Look up a few tutorials, if the methods seem too slow or complicated, try painting spare bits/minis using the method. Normally it's that way because the layers add up to a really pretty finish.

Remember, take your time. You'll have them painted forever if you varnish them. Painting is not a race. If you put the hours in you'll love the results.
>>
>>46890500
>I there a way to paint sand or dry earth without blending in with their tan?
Hard mode: Find some really fine sand (you can even buy it), mix a pinch in a bowl with water and PVA glue then apply to base with an old brush. Let it cure. Paint it with a dark colour then drybrush with a lighter tone.
Easy mode: Buy a GW Texture paint and apply it to the base.
>>
>>46890183
orange maybe
>>
>>46890253
Tools came with a few brushes too but theyre all pretty fucked and i know citadel brushes are shit anyway, what are some alternatives?
>>
>>46890617
Tbh you still want to wash and drybrush the texture paints. GW texture paints are just "I hate money" mode, while Vallejo's are "Easy but more costly than sand and PVA" mode.


Tip from the manager of my local on GW's textures: if you're doing a big area and will use the whole pot, or you're coming to the end of the pot, you can get access to all the expensive texture you paid for by sawing the pot in half. (He went through like 10 pots recently doing a bunch of scenery).
>>
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>>46888898
>Sanguine Shields.

The one chapter that I created that became famous/popular.

This pleases Tzeentch.

Remember to give the Sergeant a purple shoulder.
>>
I'm recreating the dark eldar faction from the painting book that was metallic purple, but I'm going to go with metallic blue.
Is black shoulders/cloth and bright green venom and gun juice good complimentary colours?
>>
>>46890906
The trouble is finding the right colour purple. And that tan is paler than I remember...do you think Bone would be better?

>>46890617
I'm by a beach, shouldn't be too hard.

>>46890593
Message received. Wouldn't varnish make them Shiney though? I rather enjoy the beat down look
>>
>>46891273
Nah mate, the tan is the same one I've used in every pic.

Your models look great for first time ones mate!

I used bone for the Aquila, mostly as a subtle constrast to the tan, but if you want to use it for the whole body, go for it man!
>>
>>46891273
You can get varnishes in gloss, satin, and matte.
Just don't buy GW's 'Purity Seal' - it is awful.
>>
>>46890253
The paints would run you at $120 AUD new, that's a good deal
>>
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Was wondering if I could get any tips about this. First time working with thunder wolves. Any help is appreciated
>>
>>46890462
Sadly, I cant find any of the small pots. All thats left are the tall ones, which are 7+ usd.

>>46890510
I see. Well that sucks, since I had just gotten it. Anyways, thanks for the help on this, I'll definetly check in on those. Anyways, one more bit of help, do you have any recommendations for a black spray primer? Chaos Black from GW was pretty good, but Army painter had been rather bad over All; too thick compared to
GW's
>>
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>>46891415
Have you seen Duncan's tutorial on them?
https://youtu.be/-EIKHXgymJY
>>
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Green Knight WIP, thoughts?
Have just got him to a level im comfortable with taking him to tournaments, want to highlight further and try freehand on his barding later down the track.
Also still need to paint and attach his shield
>>
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Someone converted nightgoblins so as to be 'Tzeench Horrors'. Does anyone know offhand how hard it would be to hollow out their faces and trim off their arms and feet like pic related?
>>
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>>
>>46891594
>>46891558
>>46891415

For starters, learn to RESIZE your images and make them into a collage.

It's considerate to others and makes the thread easy to follow.
>>
man fuck yellows. it isnt even that the primer shows through or anything like that, it's just yellow layer paints like yriel look like shit on top of a base like aversun
>>
>>46891618
The arms and feet should be easy, the faces not so much. I'd get a big drill bit and exacto and just try to carve/drill it out then smooth it with green stuff.
>>
>>46891628

inb4 moronic newfags start sperging out about first world bandwidth
>>
>>46888072
>moves foot
>knocks everything the fuck over
>>
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I know the paint job is shite and definetly not Thor themed but what do you think of the wings on hammers for my dwarf warrior vet?
>>
So, I've been on a painting hiatus of about a year or so, and I just now remembered I had a pack of open green stuff still in the freezer.

Is that shit ruined, or is it still usable when I get back into working with it?
>>
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Ugh I bought the Renegade Knight box set and I want to build both them at double Gatling gun wardens but I need the bits for 3 gatling arms and I can't find any and ebay is being a shit about it (seriously they are going for like $30 a piece on ebay)

Any ideas?
>>
>>46894105
is it the strip kind where the blue and green parts touch or is it the bog tube of green stuff with the two compounds separated?

If the former you might be ok, since the cold slows the reaction, but the only way to know is going to be to let it get back to room temp and try it out.
>>
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>>46888458
Batjet/10
>>
>>46894157
Separate strips, I keep them in the same container, but they weren't touching.
>>
>>46894109
You only get one included? I would just make a different Knight.
>>
>>46894204
>not touching

Oh then you're fine. Don't worry about it.

I mean I wouldn't leave it there another year though
>>
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>>46894218
Okay, I was just worried that being in the freezer for so long would mess up the individual components. I kind of got in a bit of a laze when I ordered a desk to set up in my room specifically to paint on, so pretty much everything involved with my painting work has been sitting in a corner collecting dust, but I finally got around to cleaning up and getting ready to finally set the desk up and get back to painting and model work. I can't believe I had completely forgotten about my green stuff though, it was buried under half full bags of broccoli and fries
>>
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Does /wip/ know any good wood furniture guides? I want wood on my lasguns.
>>
>>46894109

Grav guns are $10 and marine lists need like 10+ of them so I say just pay the faggots on eBay.
>>
>>46894109
Try hades autocannons?
>>
>>46894309
I remember someone saying a lot of vostroyan guides show it a few weeks back
>>
>>46894315
I had actually though about asking around how to get loads of gravguns. But I realized my local meta doesn't really have a lot of armour anyway so I guess I dodged a bullet. Just really wanted tacticals that had any reason to bring heavy weapons along.
>>
>>46894345
I can't believe I didn't think of that, thanks.
>>
So, how many of you guys just do modelling/painting work, and don't actually play the game?
>>
>>46894416

I do play the game but it's just so infrequent I might as well be painting only. All the stuff I buy and paint is meant for the games I never get to play.
>>
>>46894416
Me. Currently workong on my IG, going to pick up the SM start box once I finish, still need to decide on which IF sucessor I like most.
>>
How difficult are tattoos to paint on savage orcs?
Thinking about starting a savage orc army (orruk?)
>>
>>46894575
Depends on what kind of tattoo. You can either make it purposely messy to fit the Ork style, or make it clean and neat. If it's the latter, you just need a steady hand and a clear image of what you're painting. Preferably use a pen to mark the tattoo before hand and then fill it in if you want it neat, or messy too, if you want a purposeful messyness
>>
>>46894416
I don't play at all. I have a few rulebooks downloaded, but I have no where to actually play nearby. the only game shop is Emerald City, and it's a hell of a distance to go when theres not even a guarantee I will play against someone, after all the Warhammer stuff is stuffed all the way in the back corner on a single aisle, and even then it's the Fantasy that gets the most shelf exposure, while 40k is on the bottom shelf, or just single mini packs.
>>
>>46894324
Hades Autocannons aren't much easier to find but I also need the mounting for them from the gatling gun bits anyways still

Although it would look super cool and chaosy so i want to do it still
>>
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just painted my first painting, what do you guys think?

every time I see pics of someone's first mini they look fucking amazing that I sometimes think "no way that's your first"
>>
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>>46894937
If it makes you feel better, this was my very first mini
>>
>>46889877
put some form of gloss varnish on your snow flock when it is drying to make it look like wet snow
>>
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>>46894937
First models look great.... right... These were my first models that I painted 16 years ago.
>>
>>46890183
Dark or bright green would maybe look good. Its hard to say without a picture.
>>
Any got any model lines/examples of robotic dwarves? Like, robots, androids, that sort of thing.

Especially bigger designs and the like.
>>
>>46891273
Do not use beach sand. Its way too coarse.
>>
>>46895269
it's rough and it gets everywhere
>>
>>46894937
Pardon?
>>46888898
>>
>>46895269
What kind of sand do you recommend?
>>
>>46888898
I have seriously considered buying the painter kit just for those guys.
>>
>>46894986
this doesn't even look bad though

>>46893940
ROTATE AND CROP YOUR PICTURES
>>
>>46895910
Usually the best kind of modelling sand is the same kind they put in sandboxes, you can buy a huge fucking bag for pretty cheap, and it will last you pretty much your entire life.
>>
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>>46895945
Dont try to be nice anon, I know it's pretty shite
>>
>>46895924
They're pretty awesome, and snap together pretty tightly, I didn't even need to use glue save for the bolter arm for the guy on the left
>>
>>46895997
If i wasn't at work i would post my first cultist. Its not bad, its just not good
>>
>>46894937
my first mini
>>
>>46895159
>>46896066
>JUST
>>
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>>46895997
>>46894986
Also because I want to display my progress, this was about three months after my first model, my most recent works before I went on a break
>>
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>>46896066
>>46896070
this is where im at now
>>
>>46894309
http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/woodgrainel_1.htm
>>
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Slow progress on the Kill Krusha
>>
Can the Tau have gray or light blue skin?
>>
>>46896272

Yes. They're actually pale grey blue in the artwork.
>>
>>46896169
now dats proppa orky. is that a FW kit?
>>
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Thinking of making an epic tyranids army.
Would this hormagaunt work as a hierophant?
>>
If anyone could provide the skin recipe for those really bright savage orcs, you know, those ones! I'd really appreciate it :).
>>
>>46896066
What is it about starting to paint that makes everyone paint the whole base green. Im fucking guilty of that.
>>
>>46891352
>st don't buy GW's 'Purity Seal' - it is awful.
What's wrong with it?
>>
>>46896633
That's because back in the day goblin green base with flock was the norm.
>>
>>46896661
Its price
>>
>>46896661
Bought it once and it made a 10 man squad of Deathwing Knights look like sugar frosted doughnuts.
>>
>>46896661
Expensive, more prone to cause frosting, alters the colors of the end result more than its competitors.

This guy's review is quite apt: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/483928.page
>>
>>46896688
>>46896686
>>46896747
Thanks for letting me know. I assume valejo has an acceptable alternative?
>>
>>46896169
I really wanted one of these, even have the money saved but it was gone from the site before i even checked the email they sent.
>>
By the way, is this stuff mainly for dealing with metal mini's?
Is it necessary to do it on say, a regular tac marine squad?
>>
>>46896926
>this stuff?

What stuff?
>>
>>46896954
>What stuff?
The stuff with the power
>>
>>46896954
Spray varnish as discussed in the above posts.
>>
>>46896848
Vallejo's brush-on varnishes are pretty good, haven't tried their spray varnish but sprays aren't their forte.
>>
>>46896968
>The stuff with the power
What power?
>>
>>46897017
Thanks
>>
>>46897017
>>46897030
Army Painters sprays are generally good quality. I made good experience with their anti-shine matte varnish.
>>
>>46888548
Second to the World Eaters. Would e good to see the gore done well and in moderation.
>>
>>46897024
Power of voodoo.
>>
>>46897167
Whodoo?
>>
>>46896403
Sorry anon, they discontinued it a few weeks back.

Still, might be a chinaman out there with one for sale.
>>
>>46896592

Just had to check what a Hierophant actually was... I think you may find it to only be about 1/3 to 1/4 the size of the Titan you're looking to use...

What edition do you want it for?
>>
>>46896747
>http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/483928.page

I'd agree. Bought some of the GW stuff because I felt that I'd painted some stuff better than I usually can... give it a quick spray of GW varnish.... Put it in a tub of detol because it's fucked-up the whole lot. Bin the varnish and never buy another GW spray again.
>>
>>46896747
On that note, what's the best varnish these days?

Last time I was painting everyone used Testors Dullcoat
>>
>>46897167
>>46897523
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ht7QQ7JIbs8
>>
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What can i do to make minis look better? Pic related is my latest mini.
I've been painting for 3 months and am eager to improve
>>
>>46897544
Um... Epic. As in the 6mm version of 40k?
>>
>>46897834
Use more different layers on the metal and wash it, flat metal tends to look boring, you seem to have done at leasts several layers on the iron halo, so more like that, clean up the knee if possible, although that's gonna be hard without messing up the stuff around it. Do the same thing to the bolter's red parts and the rope thing like you did with the tabard. Other than that it's just a matter of more practice and brush control.
>>
>>46897834
Give it a wash, paint the highlights thinner, and be consistent about going over the sides of a raised surface (purity seals, bottom of pauldron).

Paint white by painting it a very light grey and adding white in either very thin layers or just as highlights. This is also how you paint yellow.

Get a uniform paint job on the storm bolter.

You're going to have to restart on the base though, I don't know how to salvage that.
>>
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>>46896592
I think the body size is probably about right (Maybe a little big actually, but Epic has never had consistent scaling anyway). You're going to want to pinch the body together a bit, chop the head and add a neck if you're aping the FW version, though.
>>
>>46897834
Looks pretty solid already now, maybe just thinner highlights and more variations in the highlights and layers.
>>
>>46898291
Cool, thanks
>>
>>46889877
fromthewarp dot blogspot dot com slash search slash label slash snow
>>
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>>46897880
>>46897932
>>46898309

Thanks!

>>46897932

Yeah i forgot to mention base isnt done, that's half dried astrogranite, gonna wash and drybrush is so it looks like this:
>>
>>46889877
Anon I can give you this easy and cheap remedy for your problem! All the hobby stores hate me for this one weird trick. You request that someone post a guide image! That's it, the birds will go wild :^)
>>
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>>46897544
>Just had to check what a Hierophant actually was...
>>46897877
>Um... Epic. As in the 6mm version of 40k?

Pic related. I have a feeling that gaunt is gonna be *way* too small.
>>
Purple and silver loyalist marines: yea or nay?
I'm going to avoid discussing fluff because that would inevitably derail the thread.
>>
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What's everyone's favorite spray primer? I just sprayed all my infantry with a can of Pic-related and then a can of Army Painter stuff when I ran out. Both seem to be pretty good, but the Army stuff is a bit glossier (even for a matte) and the Rustoleum is somewhat rougher. Then I touched up creases and moldlines I had missed with Imperial brush primer, which mixed well with both primers.

I still have plenty of other stuff to prime, so I'm open to suggestions.
>>
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>>46898916
>that's half dried astrogranite

"He's sent 'im down for 'chat' with the Astrogranite!"
"That's right, Jim! It looks like our star player has developed a sudden interest in the state of the pitch!"
>>
>>46899349
I just add a bit of extra water to the colour that takes up most of the model and slather it all over.

Green for my guardsmen, a good number of different colours for my marines becasue I still can't figure out which chapter and brown for beastmen.
>>
>>46897017
Vallejo spray varnish is the next best thing to dullcote. Just don't use it when its cold or it will be more satin then matte.
>>
>>46899508
No problems with the paint not sticking? I'm painting a bunch of necrons and wouldnt mind just starting off with leadbelcher
>>
>>46899508
That's not priming.
If you don't also use a primer your models are unprimed and you should feel bad.
>>
>>46899569
If you're painting necrons and want the super easy way out, just follow up your spray primer with the GW leadbelcher spray.

Don't skip the actual spray primer though.
>>
>>46899597
>GW leadbelcher spray.
I'm tempted to, but it's a whopping $20 for one lousy can lol.

I may go that route for the vehicles, though. I'd like for the base layers to be as smoothly applied as possible.
>>
>>46899508
That's not a good idea anon. Primer isn't standard paint. It's specifically designed to attach itself onto the surface and provide a layer that paint can then be applied onto without it rolling right off.
>>
>>46899569
>>46899576
>>46899728
I haven't had any issues with it so far, but I have only done this with plastic. Dunno how metal or resins reacts.
>>
>>46899728
And then there is Army Painter whose primers are 100% color matches with their paint range to ease up the painting.
>>
>>46899777
I'm finished prepping my resin "finecast" crap, thankfully. So much more work compared to the plastic stuff. If it doesnt get broke and warped in shipping, it's full of bubbles and miscast.
>>
>>46899569
>>46899616
http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=15
Gun Metal, costs less for the same amount per can AND is a primer in itself, cutting down costs and time even more.
>>
>>46899508
>>46899777
I'd like to see pictures before I believe that it looks even close to acceptable.
>>
>>46899830
>http://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=15
Damn, wish I saw this a while ago. I just had too much money and too little experience and decided to go with citadel stuff.
>>
>>46899876
>I just had too much money and too little experience and decided to go with citadel stuff
That's basically Games Workshop's modus operandi.
>>
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>>46899894
>I just had too much money and too little experience and decided to go with citadel stuff
>That's basically Games Workshop's modus operandi.

"There is no innocence ... only degrees of guilt."
>>
>>46899876
Not to worry, in my experience Army Painter primers suck the big one. They're finicky as hell, just hit up a walmart or something for rustoleum/krylon satin finish primer.
>>
>>46899961
i use their combined primer/base colours.
the first one i did was a white, and i did something wrong and it made my models all fuzzy. too hot a day maybe. I use the gunmetal colour one but i find it tends to pool easily and apply too thick.
>>
>>46899894
>>46899916

I'm learning this lesson far too often lately lol.

I can't wait to put it all to use, though. I'm putting off painting until the 40k league at my lgs starts up since you get points for painting models. I hope to post ridicule-worthy first models here soon.
>>
>>46900089
thats a great incentive to paint.
>>
>>46895677
Hahaha
>>
>>46899851
I can't find the cable for the tablet to get the pics onto the computer, and I've already spend more time looking than I feel like for a post like this. I've done it the way I do since for the periods in which I have had to "prime" my dudes I have lived in an apartment in the kind of neighborhood I don't feel like bringing my tiny plastic dudes outside to use a spray can, and I care enough about my health to do it inside. Further, I have tried using black primer before, with the result that I had to then coat 95% of the model in several layers of green for it to not look like shit. And I need 150 green dudes, with green fatigues and green flak armour. So fuck that noise. This way, I simply just coat the whole thing in green, wash the fatigues and paint a darker green over the armour and then go to work on the details and I like the results so far. Hell, I even tried priming my blood ravens black once, and then same story, almost all of the model then needed a billion layers of red to not look like shit. With spray cans I also have to get a lot of guys ready and prime them all at once, letting them dry, turn them around and give them another go, and still there's bits of grey I will have to cover up anyway, every time. Instead I can just grab a guy or two, slather them in paint, and when I'm done with the second, the first one is ready to go. To my experience I get better coverage from the start anyway than if I had to spray and then basically do what I would other wise do to cover up the small hard to get places, which takes about as much time as just painting it in hand from the get go.
>>
some wips
>>
>>46900438
Your anecdotes are kind of pointless without any results to show.
>>
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Just drybrushing this fortress i found at auction and won for £6

What greens should i use for when applying moss and weathering effects?
>>
>>46900438
Just post from the tablet. Surely you have wifi?
>>
People have been hyping up Vallejo metallics in past threads, but I can't remember which range.
Is it Model Color or Model Air that supposedly has amazing metallics, even for brushwork?
>>
>>46900781
Model Air's silvers are amazing, although iirc some people aren't as hyped about their other metallics.
>>
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>>46900720
You are correct, i'm an idiot.

I really need to practice my faces.
>>
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>>46900893
Here's the side of a russ. Gonna paint it over with a darker green though, it's too light.
>>
>>46891273
Bricklayers sand is what you want. If there's a building site nearby just ask if you can have a zip lock bag worth.
>>
>>46900438
You're trying to prime a bunch of guys on a board or a box or something right?

Forget that.

Get a few feet of 1x2, stick a piece of double sided tape to it and stick a squad of guys on (don't cram loads of models on) Being able to access them from almost all angles and being able turn them upside down makes priming a breeze.

You can step outside (I'm usually in the doorway to minimize wind) blast a coat of primer on and done.

You can get colored primer if you want.
>>
>>46899469

Hahaha jesus christ
>>
>>46901001
Also, if you're struggling with the first coat then go dryer - almost to a drybrush. Much easier to get coverage like that.
>>
>>46900712
I'd try stippling / sponging brown and green inks, focussing on the recesses where moisture would collect.

Definitely a 'less is more' situation though, do a very light pass and then review.
>>
>>46891618
Plenty easy if you have a rotary tool or a drill.

Slice or saw the face off even with the hood then carefully drill out the flat where the face used to be.

If it's a little rough inside you can paint some plastic cement in there. It will soften up the plastic and it will smooth out a bit.
>>
>>46901001
I might try this next time I need to prime a load of guys. Thanks for the advice.
>>
>>46901001
I went this route for my warriors, but I taped them on the edge of a box. The only Issue I had was some overspray, but I just took a brush to them when they were dry enough to handle and took the loose dust off. Damn windy days.
>>
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If my recasts looked this bad, I'd *beg* for The Emperor's Peace. Backwards bolt guns? What the hell?!?
>>
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>>46901204
>Backwards bolt guns
>>
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>>46901204
how do you fuck up recasting this hard!?
>>
>>46888458
Just remember to paint it white/ light gray with red edge stripes along the sides of the torso and wings.
>>
>>46891628

Two pictures in a row doesn't derail the thread. I agree about picture size though.
>>
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>>46888072
Hey /wip/ does anyone know if there are charts out there which show a comparison between different brands of paint? Not a quality comparison but like a comparison showing which paints from different brands are similar in colour?

Weird question I know but I'm looking to finish my BA hanomag and the tutorial uses vallejo paints but I dont wanna buy vallejo paints when I've got citadel paints sitting there
>>
>>46895997

fix moldline on slugga and boot + elsewhere
drill barrel
put paint where it's supposed to be, the green bleeds over on his gloves and teeth.
>>
>>46899349
Most of the guys at my gaming club swear by white knights squirts (that's a real fucking thing here in Australia).
>>
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Testing out my new light/photo setup.
>>
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>>46900712
>mfw I always wanted to get one, but then found out they're OOP and no longer could find one without paying up the wazoo for it
>mfw the new fortress costs more than all the 40k terrain I'd ever need and looks like WoW and Darksiders had angry sex
>>
>>46900893
These are at step 1 right?
>>
>>46902721
Christ, would you stop posting the same picture over and over again?
>>
>>46902877
My apologies, they are just the models I have around atm and wanted to test out this lightbox.

To be fair the one on the left is newly painted.
>>
>>46902008
>Hey /wip/ does anyone know if there are charts out there which show a comparison between different brands of paint?

Yes.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>>46902008
>BA hanomag

Hanomag? Is that Yiddish for "Blood Angels Honour Guard"?

Oh. Is it a steam locomotive, then?
>>
>>46902008
Litterally first result googling vallejo gw conversion chart.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart
>>
>>46891628

>being on Australian internet

You guys really have nothing go for you
>>
>>46902922
sorry bae didnt get that when I typed in something, cant remember what it was though

>>46902915
Thanks bud. Hanomag was the name given to the sdkfz 251 cause it was hanomag who built them first
>>
>>46894937

My first mini looked pretty damn sweet, it was the DV captain. I did spend like 50 hours on him though since I had no idea what the fuck I was doing and had to correct stuff all the time.

I also used Army Painter's old formula which is super thin. Fucking angel green basecoats over black took 12 layers.
>>
>>46903041

And >>46893346 wins their point.

Resizing and collaging your images continues to be considerate to others.
>>
>>46889877
I use microballoons+PVA and varying amounts of white/blue paint. Great for anything from fluffy snow (quite a bit of white) to wet melty snow (almost no paint).
>>
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>get neuropathy in hands from chemo
>says I won't be able to properly use my hands for at least 2 months
Well fuck you, I'm starting a dark eldar army.
I'm not even done building and it took me 8 hours to build these guys about.
Only fucked up the shoulder on one of the guys, look forward to painting
>>
>>46902915
>>46902922
welp just searched the paints in the color chart on dakkadakka and they're not there

Middlestone (Vallejo 70882)
Light Brown (Vallejo 70929)
>>
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>>46903364
>That pic

You asked for it!
>>
>>46902800
http://www.renedra.co.uk/productlist.php?category=12&secondary=34
Not the same obviously, and they're not cheap, but they do look nice I think.
>>
>>46902915
>>46902922
Not him, but thanks for the link! I've been searching a bit for another conversion matrix that includes Minitaire paints, but haven't been able to find one; has anyone found one yet?
>>
>>46902696
>white knights squirts
Wow, what an unfortunate name. Neckbeard post-taco bell would have been better.
>>
>>46903364
Hope you show them nerves who's boss, Anon.
>>
>>46903374
>welp just searched the paints in the color chart on dakkadakka and they're not there
>Middlestone (Vallejo 70882)

For this I'm seeing "Deathworld Forest", which is the new equivalent for "Gretchin Green."

>Light Brown (Vallejo 70929)

This one's a bit tougher.
>>
>>46903141

I don't give a fuck about your third world internet, stop going off topic and keep it about WIP.
>>
>>46903694
thanks I forgot to post the pic the middlestone is the hull and the light brown is the benches
>>
>>46903776
>thanks I forgot to post the pic the middlestone is the hull and the light brown is the benches

Maybe ... Kislev Flesh?
>>
>>46903883
he mentions a flesh wash once the colours are dry. So yeah maybe Gretchin Green, Snakebite leather or vomit brown and then a flesh wash.
>>
>>46889236
I think this WD article is very interesting regarding that.

http://www.blacklibrary.com/Downloads/Product/PDF/white%20dwarf/WD_How_to_Photograph_Miniatures.pdf
>>
>>46904006
Thats pretty helpful thanks.
>>
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>>46904006
>>46889236

Or you can just halfass it with a folded sheet of A4 paper (or a year-old amazon invoice in my case) and an online picture cropping/ resizing site.
>>
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I plan on painting a Wraithknight in the style of Eva unit 01, how feasible would it be to create a fitting head for the model?
>>
>>46904675
>that heat effect on the autocannon barrels
>that chipped paint on the side door steps

Very nice attention to detail.
>>
>>46904675
Yeah do the same with an infantry model not a fucking tank.
>>
>>46904731
Thanks, but I just realized that I completely forgot about the dozer blade thing. I even spot a part that's unpainted. Good job, me.
>>
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Slowly getting the base layers done on my Frostgrave warband.

Mostly Bretonnian models with some Empire kitbashes.
>>
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Also making a few more models for Inq28, I love the new Genestealer Cult plastics.
>>
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>>46904732
What, why should an infantry model be any different?
>>
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What do you lot think of my felinid?
>>
>>46904809
Because depending on your camera configuration it's not always just point and shoot.
>>
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>>46904842
And the back of the model.
>>
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>>46904842
Go post that in the 40k general.
>>
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>>46904726
>how feasible would it be to create a fitting head for the model?

That would rock.

I've seen some Pepakura stuff for Evangelion, but I don't know how well it would scale to the size of a Wraithknight, especially with the kind of materials we normally use here in WIP. Still, it could be worth looking into for some ideas.
>>
>>46902912

Define new, i've seen this in every WIP thread for days now if not weeks(?)
>>
>>46904844
Well my camera is my 'private' phone, an old Iphone 4S. I assume that anything better than using a camera obscura and tracing it with pencil can reproduce similar quality images.
>>
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>>46904842
>>46904866
>>
>>46904842
>>46904866

Disgusting, would not play against.
>>
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>>46904985
>>46904980
>>46904868
Hey I'm sure Slaanesh would approve...
>>
>>46905123
Dude, even Slaanesh knows that there are limits.
>>
>>46903364
Hope all goes well :)
>>
>>46905123

Khorne would approve more, for all the rage the opponents/spectators would get afflicted by
>>
>>46903364

Drybrush instead of edge highlight
>>
>>46904842
>>46904866
Aside from the heresy, the head looks out of proportion with the body
>>
>>46904842
>>46904866

Kill yourself, furry faggot
>>
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Finally finished these bastards.
Still have so much to paint
>>
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>>46904731
>>46904771
>that green on the tow cable hoop
>>
>>46905448
That bare head looks pretty damn good.
>>
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>>46905364
Hey thanks for the honest feedback, I'm hoping that people won't notice when that one model is placed up against my other mutant cultists but I'll have to wait and see.
>>
>>46905482
Well, fuck.

Thanks, that's getting added to the list of flaws I've already found looking at the pictures.
>>
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Doing some quick random monsters to fill my bestiary.
>>
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>>46905548
>Thanks, that's getting added to the list of flaws I've already found looking at the pictures.

I know those feels, anon. I was resizing this picture when I suddenly realized why there was a fully painted First Edition Rhino exhaust in my bitzbox.
>>
>>46905548
sorry to piss in your cereal anon, cracking job mate
>>
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Experimenting with a companion to my weird wolves.
>>
>>46904675
thats amazing, some great work
>>
>>46905858
That head gives me a wendango vibe, like the cleric beasts in blood borne
>>
>>46905548
Why is it that we only see these flaws in the pics and now when just looking at them?
>>
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Feeling ambitious, any tips on how to make these? They'd be for my mechanicus army, the eyes are from being part of the biologis division
>>
>>46905858
That looks pretty rad actually. Where's the skull from?
>>
>>46905858
>typical GW female model
>>
>>46906162
Tons of greenstuff and despair.
>>
>>46905555
that looks cool as hell, how did you do that?
>>
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>>46894937
Its certainly grim, keep at it anon!
>>
>>46905858
I would also like to know where the skull is from. Been looking for a source for hats for my wolf-cult crypt ghouls.
>>
>>46904842
Yiff in the Warp, Heretic
>>
>>46903383
Johnny Anon... Why are there filthy xenos in your house?
We'll see what the inquisitor says when I tell him you harbor aliens.
>>
>>46903364
Good luck Anon. I hope all goes well. Take the models to your consultant and show him what you accomplished in the face of a challenge and that you are a manchild.
>>
>>46906580
>Johnny Anon... Why are there filthy xenos in your house?

The Blood Angels have to fight *somebody*! It can't all be "paintball exercises" between squads.
>>
>>46906480
>>46906162
Malifaux brass spiders, or clockwork spiders, and similar modles, combine with comparable female minis of your choice after chopping them up just right
>>
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got done basing my Genestealers, gotta figure out what I want to paint next.
>>
Is there a way to get the genestealer cult without shelling out for death watch overkill?
>>
>>46906777
Yes, lots of bits sites and resellers are selling the box's contents separately. You can't buy just stealer cults straight from GW though.
>>
>>46906380
>>46906546

The skull is from the old metal/finecast Logan Grimnar, it's completely separate and meant as base decoration.
>>
>>46906862
Ah, darn, that won't exactly be available in large quantities then. Cheers for the info.
>>
>>46906502
Thanks, but do what exactly?
It's just a basecoat + wash + drybrushing.. No advanced stuff at all, like I said filling out the bestiary with Bones models. Trying to get a whole bunch tabletop ready at the moment.
>>
>>46906847
>>46906777
What faction would do best with the death watch army? Also are there dreadnoughts I'm deathwatch?
>>
>>46902841
Yah, or various stages. Shit picture aside, the melta dudes and the black dude with the knife look fine with the naked eye. I've had trouble making high lighted dark skin without making it too light. I keep painting them in batches of 2-5 and then often forget to return to them when I do something else while they dry, so I have a bunch of them in varying stages of being finished. Also thought about trying out different techniques. Was playing around with not using metallics and getting a more cartoonish exagerated look.

This was mostly to show that the green base coat sticks fine.
>>
>>46906777
some people will probably buy the box and sell off some or all of the minis. might get lucky and find them on a site like Craigslist or Ebay.
>>
>stripped models last week
>left them on my tabel
>come down now
>decide to prime them
>realize i forgot the mold lines AGAIN
fucking hell
after i shave these off would i want to touch up with some brush on or just do a quick spray again
>>
>>46906935
Use a brush or your base will be really thick and clog detail.
>>
>>46906893
The Deathwatch units aren't great, desu.
The Deathwatch do maintain dreads in the fluff ( http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Deathwatch_Dreadnought ), but you'd need to get access to them via some other flavour of power-armoured allies. This is a /40kg/ question though.

>>46906935
Just touch up with brush-on
>>
>>46907077
>>46907082
alright thanks lads

i really should get a magnifying glass or something so i stop missing these
>>
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>>46906777
>Is there a way to get the genestealer cult without shelling out for death watch overkill?

Just buy them off eBay.

>>46906893
>What faction would do best with the death watch army?

Assuming you're not going to just throw them into an Unbound list, they are Inquisition units. Da roolz as presented in White Dwarf 109 include 2 HQ's (Ortan Cassius and Jensus Natorian), 3 Elites (Edryc Setorax, Antor Delassio, and Garran Branatar), a Fast Attack (Jetek Suberei), and a Troops choice (Squad Donatus). Right away, this sounds like the makings of an Allied Detachment depending on who you want to take.

Alternately, you can take all the marine models from DW:OK as a single Formation called "Kill Team Cassius" for 535 points, but they must form a cohesive unit and can not separate.

I thought it might be fun to paint up Squad Donatus and stick them in a drop pod I take as a Fast Attack choice from my own army just so Rodricus Grytt could tear something up with his frag cannon. It's not like any of my dreadnoughts ever last long enough to do anything with theirs!

>Also are there dreadnoughts in deathwatch?

I don't ever recall seeing any, and it really wouldn't make any sense - once you've done however many tours with the Ordo Xenos that you sign up for, you go back to your home chapter - but that doesn't mean they couldn't come up with some crazy roolz anyway.
>>
>>46906935
>>46907127
>>46907082
>>46907077
Speaking of, how do you guys get rid of mold lines? I've tried using a hobby knife, but it seems like I'm just as likely to just make ugly cutting marks or otherwise fuck something up instead of fixing the problem.
>>
>>46906862
Loving this crazy shit dude. Care to give us some insight into how you did those braids on your man-faced-wolves
>>
Are these guys who sell New in Box squads on ebay legit?

I wanted to get some boxes of units I won't ever use to kitbash but can't find the bits individually.
>>
>>46907219
>they are Inquisition units

Pretty sure they're actually 'Deathwatch' faction units. 'Deathwatch' is listed as a faction on the new Psychic powers cards.
>>
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>>46907221
>Speaking of, how do you guys get rid of mold lines? I've tried using a hobby knife, but it seems like I'm just as likely to just make ugly cutting marks or otherwise fuck something up instead of fixing the problem.

It's expensive, but the Citadel mold line remover works very well. It is very solidly built. Additionally, there's no sharp edge to cut yourself if your fingers slip.
>>
>>46907292
>See this picture
>Look at my hobby knife
>The tip is broken off
>Look at space marine on my desk
>He has a fucking xacto blade tip embedded in his hip
MAXIMUM EDGE
I have no idea how that happened or when it did.
>>
>>46907292
I might actually be willing to get this, I have about 50 marines piling up, oldest from when I was 10 or younger, and they've got mold lines galore.
>>
>>46907292
You actually gave them money for that mold line remover?

Someone should punch you for that
>>
>>46907271
>Pretty sure they're actually 'Deathwatch' faction units. 'Deathwatch' is listed as a faction on the new Psychic powers cards.

Huh. That's an interesting new addition. The faction symbol looked so much like the Inquisition's symbol that I just assumed they were counted as part of the Ordo Xenos, and by extension, the Inquisition as a whole. Nonetheless, if you want to take some of them as an Allied Detachment, you still have plenty of choices.
>>
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Since Bretonnian and Imperial knights are no more, where does one find bit to build himself some of these wonderful anachronistic mish mash armour and two handed sword? I think the helmet in particular is really neat. Love the painted armour thing and it has made me wanna field crusaders along with the inquisitor I have been thinking of kitbashing together.

>>46907355
Power armour ain't no joke.
>>
>>46906883
oh the way you worded it I was kinda assuming you laser cutted it or something
>>
>>46907261
>Are these guys who sell New in Box squads on ebay legit?

They're ... probably as legit as anybody else on eBay, why?

See, here's da fing, boss: eBay has roolz, but the place is so big, and in some cases you'd need expert knowledge, for them to police everything. Those Forgeworld Imperial Knights from the Russian Federation? Yes, of course they're recasts - just like the ones from Greece or China - but people want to buy those at recaster prices. They're not going to report the sellers, and even if they did, they have no grounds to do so - only Forgeworld or GW could really do that, since they hold the copyrights.

>I wanted to get some boxes of units I won't ever use to kitbash but can't find the bits individually.

Where are you, and from which country(ies) would you consider buying?
>>
>>46907572
I'm in the US, it's just none of the stores in my area sell at anything below GW price.

If I can't save money, I'll suck it up and go to the store.
>>
>>46894937
Thin your paints.
>>
>>46907219
Unbound? Not him but I'm getting back into 40k after a hiatus
>>
>>46907572
>devastator sergeant with a power fist

Who thought this was a good idea?
>>
>>46907657
At least they had the good sense to give him a bolter instead of the myriad of sergeants and with fist and bolt pistol.
>>
>>46907657
Me, when I built my first box of devastators. Other japes include an assault sergeant with a combat shield and power axe, and a death company with literally every special weapon option from the sprue used so they average like 40+ points per model.

Basically, putting stuff together in a way that looks cool when first starting out is a silly thing to do.
>>
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>>46907653
More /40kg/ questions but
>>
>>46907657
>>46907795
>>46907803
This is /wip/. The Rule of Cool comes before winning here.
>>
>>46907561
Oh, sorry no, that would be a bit cooler :P
>>
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>>46907572
>Mfw I'm just realizing my dad played 40k when I was a kid
I had no idea what those boxes were back then.
>>
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>>46907803
>>46907795
>be 11 or some shit
>hell yeah two bolters
>cool as fuck
>>
>>46907932
Tits or GTFO.
>>
>>46908010
>>>/b/
>>
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>>46907292
I never thought I would see the day when someone endorses Citadel mold line remover... Jesus fucking Christ
>>
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>>46907614
>I'm in the US, it's just none of the stores in my area sell at anything below GW price.

You can find online retailers that will give you a discount if you look hard enough and, well, there's always eBay.

>If I can't save money, I'll suck it up and go to the store.

Here's anuvva fing: do you go to your store regularly enough that the owner/manager knows your name? Do you ever play games there? Dropping some coin locally might not be a bad idea. That's how I ended up with the Citadel mold line remover that >>46907433 is throwing such a shit-fit about.

>>46907653
>Unbound? Not him but I'm getting back into 40k after a hiatus

>>46907831 is right, these are /40kg/ questions, but honestly... don't you feel a cut above here in /WIP/? I always considered this somewhat of a classier place to be.

An "Unbound" army is one in which you choose the squads and characters without regard to army organization; you essentially "bring whatever you feel like". By contrast, a "Battle-forged" army consist entirely of legally selected formations and detachments from one or more factions, and combining them may grant you specific bonuses or cause uvva roolz to come into play.

>>46907657
>devastator sergeant with a power fist
>Who thought this was a good idea?

When this model was released at the end of First Edition, it wasn't nearly as ridiculous an idea it had become by Third Edition, where da roolz for power fists (and, indeed, just about all melee weapons) changed radically. Back then, a Space Marine squad cost around 300 points. An extra 10 points for a power fist (which didn't strike last like they do now!) seemed trivial.

Besides, since he bears no chapter-specific insignia (several sergeant models from that era *did*), he is perfectly suited to leading any group of regular squadboyz you have depending on how you paint him.
>>
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continuing the manticore
>>
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>>46908115
>>
>>46908078
>don't you feel a cut above here in /WIP/? I always considered this somewhat of a classier place to be.

So fucking true but I feel bad for the non-GW guys when we go full-GW.
>>
>>46907433
>>46908064

The Citadel mold line remover isn't worth the money, but it IS better than the back of a hobby knife and/or a flat file for removing mold lines. Don't talk shit if you haven't even used one before, otherwise you're just another retard regurgitating ignorance on /tg/ because "hur dur fuck GW".

The mold line removal tool isn't really worth it because it can't reach certain spots making it completely pointless and overpriced, but if you're just removing mold lines from large models, it's faster and easier than scraping with a knife.
>>
>>46908180
>but it IS better than the back of a hobby knife and/or a flat file for removing mold lines
Okay, what makes the Jewish piece of metal with 90° angles better than other piece of metal with 90° angles or a sharp edge?
>>
>>46908398
Kabalistic metallurgy, of course.
>>
>>46908180
you can literally get better results using a butter-knife.
>>
>>46908398

It's thicker.

You can buy actual moldline removal tools elsewhere from Citadel that are thicker and heavier than an exacto knife but come with a sharp point unlike the GW one.
>>
>>46908398
>>46908539

Like he said, don't talk if you've never even used one. Butter knives don't even have a 90 degree edge.
>>
http://www.micromark.com/seam-scraper,7547.html

Complaining about GW prices just shows you are ignorant of the world.
>>
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>>46908641

Micro Mark! There's a company that sells good stuff! I just haven't needed to order from them in quite some time.
>>
>>46908566
You don't need a blade, that's why I said "piece of metal". Hell, it doesn't even need to be made of metal, I could probably use a fragment of circuit board if I wanted.
>>46908579
(You)
>>
>>46908723
>what makes a tool specifically designed for a task with an actual handle better than a piece of scrap with a similar shape?

I don't know if you're just asking random dumb questions or if you're really too stupid to figure this out.

Nobody said you NEED GW's tool to remove mold lines. But there's a reason every single automobile has round wheels instead of oblong ones.
>>
>>46908723

Maybe you should try using it and then you'll find out why it's better. Don't know why you keep posting if you don't even have any knowledge or experience on the subject.
>>
>>46908765
>Nobody said you NEED GW's tool to remove mold lines
And that's why it isn't worth the investment
>>46908783
>Don't know why you keep posting if you don't even have any knowledge or experience on the subject.
I have seen it in use, seen the cleaned models models and it fails to impress. Only thing you really have is how it "feels" in the hand and if people really think it's worth ~18$ then fine, but you niggas are crazy
>>
>>46888072
I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but what painting services companies would WIP recommend?
>>
>>46909834
>would WIP recommend?
Your own hard toil.

Might want to give country, proposed size of army, desired finish, budget etc.
>>
>>46909854
>>46909854
>>46909854
New Thread
>>
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>>46901204
WHAT THE FUCK
>>
What do you guys use to clean your brushes? I've been using Windex/Water lately but i think it's fucking up my brushes.
>>
>>46910654
Water and master's brush cleaner.
Thread posts: 324
Thread images: 83


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