WIP thread

What's everyoens techniques for painting dirty metal, or burnished brown?

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>>44477487
Depends on your setting. I could see a lot of possible industrial things in a swamp in the 40k setting. If it's fantasy then you could always go with indian/inca-style ruins, rotten wooden structures or just the local wildlife.

>>44482440
Looks pretty nice dude, i really like the deep blue in contrast to the white of the snow. If you're looking to experiment with some snow i could recommend you this tutorial to start with, also check out the other snow guides on that page.http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.de/2010/01/tutorial-snow-on-base.html


>>44484129
And here's my last update for this year. Made some progress with this dude's armour, almost finished his base. Still a lot of work to do, haven't really touched his cape or loincloth yet. I also went ahead with the blue eyes, let me know what you think of them. Next up are the finishing touches for the purple and gold.

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>>44484202
First time my picture got turned sideways, yay!

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Reposting my 16th miniature - the last thread died before any comments were posted.

>>44484373
The colors of different parts are well separated. The edges of the hammer are ok, but not so much on the boot. Did you try to paint them by tilting an almost dry brush? It is not advisable when the edge isn't relaly sharp. There are few color, for example, on the boot. If there is a flat surface that is easy to paint, try layering. The beard needs more contrast. If you used a wash, you either used a too clear one or used just watery paint. The beard is the centrail part of that miniature. I would seriously think about redoing it.
There is something wrong with the eyes. I would focus on them on your next miniature until they are perfect.
You could have painted the scales on the armor individually.
The gems doesn't shine at all. I would try to repaint it pro style if I were you.Start with black, create a gradient to clear blue on the other side, then paint the white point.

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>>44484510

Thanks for input.
>>>44484373
>The colors of different parts are well separated. The edges of the hammer are ok, but not so much on the boot. Did you try to paint them by tilting an almost dry brush? It is not advisable when the edge isn't relaly sharp.
>There are few color, for example, on the boot. If there is a flat surface that is easy to paint, try layering.
There is almost no edge on the boot. I'll try layering it.

>The beard needs more contrast. If you used a wash, you either used a too clear one or used just watery paint. The beard is the centrail part of that miniature. I would seriously think about redoing it.

I think that might be shit camera and lighting in the picture. It looks way better irl.

>There is something wrong with the eyes. I would focus on them on your next miniature until they are perfect.
Gues I gotta practice.
>You could have painted the scales on the armor individually.
Did that, even highlighted edges - again, shitphone picture. Gonna make more photos in sunlight.
>The gems doesn't shine at all. I would try to repaint it pro style if I were you.Start with black, create a gradient to clear blue on the other side, then paint the white point.

Yeah. Tried to do that with blue but couldn't. It's easier for me to do this in green (see the lense in pic attached).

>>44484233
The purple is very clean, but the metal parts are messy. I would try not using a wash, but a very dark base color and then a light color over everything but the lines that separate different parts

>>44484729
>>You could have painted the scales on the armor individually.
>Did that, even highlighted edges - again, shitphone picture. Gonna make more photos in sunlight.

the edges might be too much. Next time I would layer each square from dark at the top to light at the botom

>>44484729
Oh, and also, in those gems I think you are pushin it too much towards the edge. The end of the gradient will naturally end up covering the outer circle, but the gradients startsafter a little black

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where can I get Khorne Bezerkers that don't look like they're ice skating?

Or maybe somewhere I can buy a set of just normal CSM legs?

>>44485322
>not liking Khorne on Ice

Otherwise, why dont you use normal CSM legs?
Or third party bitz?
Or make molds of the khorne symbols on the Berserker legs and than put them on other legs?

Posting your own WIP as OP image is bad form.

>>44484129
eh anon, if you put as much effort as you did to this shield to whole model, even single box of your sigmar-dudes will be glorious and forever metioned in /wip/ threads

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You had one job.

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Working on this bitch. Still don't have a color palette together for what should be what, but it's interesting nonetheless.

>>44485910

What's Duncan gonna paint next? I fear it'll be AOS stuff, aren't the new dwarfs coming out soon?

I have no interest in that but hopefully the vids have some good stuff in them at least

>>44485910
>they tell Dunc to do paiting PURPLE WORD BEARERS POWER ARMOUR tutorial
>paints armor fluffwise

based Dunc

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Do yall think Duncan uses a plastic palette when he paints his own models? I can understand that GW wouldn't want to push a way to save paint on their own videos, but it always makes me laugh when he talks about using that shitty little plastic rectangle in his videos.

>>44486052
I wish he painted some big lizardmen dinosaur

>>44486165
I always wonder if he uses same paints and brushes or he gets new stuff for every vid

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First thing I've ever painted. It's not too great, but I think it's coming along somewhat well.

>>44486303
Definitely a workmanlike, tabletop quality. And really, that's all you ever need IMO. That's where I'm at.

>>44486223
>>44486165

Probably new stuff for every video, I mean why wouldn't he just grab fresh brushes and shit? I think he uses a wet palette off camera, or at least extenders etc. I remember reading an interview with some ex Eavy Metal guy and he said that they used all kinds of paints and shit by other companies when they painted, not just Citadel stuff. This was also back when you could actually see non-Citadel paint pots etc. in the pictures on White Dwarf on the background. Now that doesn't obviously happen, but I have a feeling they use paints by other companies too. Same thing with brushes, pretty sure they all use Kolinsky brushes behind the scenes.

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>>44486303
Eyyyyy, it's that guy. I just painted another pose of him as my first model too.

Keep at it man. Also washes are godly. And try supergluing the mini to a cork; the cork can't hold the glue so it pops off easy afterwards and then you just need to file the glue off the bottom. Much better than that alligator clip, no marks on the model afterwards and you can rotate it freely.

They aren't schedualed to released any new Ork Models anytime soon right? I was gunna buy myself an ork army.

>>44486839
anon... I'v got some bad news for ya

>>44486948
What? Please tell me they aren't so I don't have to wait.

>>44486388
Forge World is very open about using Tamiya airbrush paint to get some of their sicknasty metallic colours like the metallic turquoise for AL or metallic red for TS.

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>mfw
SEND HELP

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>>44485605
>Posting your own WIP as OP image is bad form.

I think it's kinda fun.

>>44487082
He could have at least got the links

>>44486563

>And try supergluing the mini to a cork; the cork can't hold the glue so it pops off easy afterwards and then you just need to file the glue off the bottom.

Unless the mini is really big and or heavy, no need to glue it, just use blue tack.

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>>44484179
Here is a guide to dirty metal from Privateer Press's Forces of Hordes: Trollbloods.

>>44486948
a-anon? What is it?

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Done

>>44487437
Dude, please.

Please dude. Guy. Please.

Do something to that blue eyesore. Put some effort in. Anything.

That is painful to look at.

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Rawr

>>44487475
Imma give it a CoolMeme™ approval

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMjJ3eOXCa4

>>44487463
Explain

>>44484129

Is dat sum Mrs Skellers?

Reminds me of the excellent cell-shading type work on those skaven.

>>44487463
Post your own models and/or give advice instead of being an ass

>>44487020
>>44487311
Not that anon, but the Orks are most likely not getting anything new this year except for maybe some new formations similar to the AM in the Kauyon.

>>44487437

Yo listen up, here's a story,
About a little guy who lived in a blue world...

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Well fuck, I knew snow looked like shit.
I don't know how to base, give me any base idea, I need suggestions

>>44487463
Fuck. At least explain why you think its an eyesore. Damn

>>44487714

Get woodland scenics turf in a variety of shades.
Glue on base, blend and spread around
let it dry
repeat if necessary.

>>44487714
That might still set up a little bit as it dries, but I'm not sure.

>>44487046
buy less, paint more
seriously dude, this many walkers, bikes, lootas... I'm soo jello but I like my way smaller but fully painted waagh more

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>>44484129
I just finished these guys 1 of 5

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>>44488276
2 of 5

Here's to more models in 2016

>>44487750
that guy is being a cock. this does look a little rushed though. Especially around the eyes, on the joints, and on the fangs you can see a number of areas where paint went on sloppily. Also the blue looks pretty uneven (which may be due to the wash you applied) and could really use some brighter highlighting. Likewise for the goblins, which don't really gel with their mount. You did bring the blue in as a spot color which is good, but on the whole its ended up looking like a kitbash, due to the jarring color choices of the spider clashing with the muted and naturalistic tones of the gobbos.

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>>44488305
3 of 5

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>>44488348
4 of 5

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>>44488383
Custom bota bag 5 of 5

>>44488336
I think it looks good, but the washes seem a little funny.
Then again, I like bright colours

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How hard is it to paint metal models, as compared to plastic?

Fuck Corvus Belli

>>44488412
>>44488383
>>44488348
>>44488305
>>44488276

Your paint is too thick and your ability to paint inside the lines is poor-to-nonexistent. You've also massively overused Nurgle's Rot in the last image, why is it on his cloak and hilt?

Overall, nice basing but your models need some serious cleanup, if not just straight stripping and repainting.

>>44488480
There's literally no difference once you get the primer on the mini. If it's a big metal mini, then your hand may get tired while holding it for a while, but otherwise that's it.

>>44488480
Literally the same, metal ones are just more time-consuming to prep

>>44488276
>>44488305
>>44488348
>>44488383
>>44488412
paint seems to be thick and whole paintjob is messy and unfished, lack of higlights and anything that catches the eye.

Only thing I can approve is wood on shield. Looks very realistic, just like a real wet, polished wood with natural pattern.

>>44488480

The paint chips much more easily and you might find you need more coats to cover, depending on your primer and basecoat.

You'll need to heavily varnish it if it's intended for gaming.

>>44488534
I think I took the pictures too close and in not so good lighting. I thin my paints and dry in between coats.

>>44488276
>>44488305
5/10
>>44488348
7/10
>>44488383
>>44488412
6/10
Thin your paints, get a better brush for eyes, one of the pointy ones, get a knife and scrap the side of the base and paint it black, it'll make it look a lot better

>>44488509
Nurgles rot is rained down upon the enemies and gets every. You are crazy, take a picture of your models at the same distance and see the same result.

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Continuing work on my wizard guy. I think I may lighten his beard overall, but otherwise I guess I'm happy with how he's turning out.

>>44488729
I think it looks fine, you're just retarded.

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>>44488777
>>44488751

Don't post pics in a thread where people critique others work and then get mad when flaws are pointed out.

I know for a fact it isn't just the camera making things looks worse because of the loss of detail in the armour - a hallmark of thick paint.

You received constructive criticism and now you're whining like a child. Get over it.

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>>44488777
Why do I even bother

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>>44484129

>>44488851
Paint is not too thick, your not here to see it or feel it asshole.

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>>44488751

Also, this is not some effect caused by the camera. You've got blue all over your black.

>>44488897

Honestly this is just getting embarrassing now. Your models don't look good and you should practice more if you want praise. I'm sure they're fine for tabletop and if you're happy with them then great, good for you.

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>>44488532
>Literally the same, metal ones are just more time-consuming to prep

Ya fergot "No plastic Johnny", anon...

>>44488770
Nice work anon, what manufacturer and scale is this?

>>44488927
That is dirt or typhoid corosion not black; he is suppose to be dirty

Happy new year, Dinguses

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Oh boy the viciously critical people are round.

Rate my stupid little Dwarf fuck. I would rather improve where I can now rather than realising there is something I could of done better AFTER I painted half an army.

1/4

>>44488986
It's not new year idiot

>>44488956
Thanks! It's about 32mm scale and it was made by the now defunct Rackham miniatures.

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>>44488991
2/4
Why can't the captcha always be this nice and straight forward?

>>44488968

Look at the glove, unless your new defense is that anywhere you messed up was supposed to be like that.

>>44489000
it is in my country.

>>44488991
Your paint is too thick

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>>44489006
3/4

I am not sure how I could do little drawings on paper better. I am thinking of using a dark grey instead of black next time, do you think that will make it look less "fisher price"?

>>44489000
>being this autistic
Did the 40k general get in?

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>>44489026
Turns out the 4th picture is just it with the Cannon. I thought I had another angle of the thing, but I may as well post it.
I know where I fucked up with the cannon for the most part. That's what happens when I get to eager to paint something I get lazy while assembling it.

>>44489016
What bit looks to thick? Or are you just fucking me about

>>44489016

No it isn't, they look really good.

I don't think I'm being 'viciously critical' when I gave some constructive criticism and in return was called crazy, retarded and an asshole. The last thing I need is people memeing about decent paintjobs turning this thread into a petty squabble.

>>44488276
>That skeleton thinking about the unlife

>>44489002
Oh it does have that style about it. Really nice work bro on the face in particular.

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>>44489061
No, no, I don't think you being viciously critical is a bad thing, it is what I want. It's why I like posting and reading /tg/ - people don't care about any form of reputation or whatever, so they are more likely to be honest.

Also better picture of the cannon, but the picture is still shit. I need a proper camera.

Also I learnt for next time to put a bigger fucking magnet in the cannon base, so it holds the dwarf on stronger.

>>44489110
The same guy thought my spider was shit >>44487437
and I though it looked tabletop, and so did a bunch of others, though im just redoing the base now
Hes just trolling, yours looks good, better than mine But youz a stuntie, so zog off git

>>44489026
I reccomend using a very fine tipped marker for stuff like that. However, your brushwork looks good to me, I like the clipboard detail.
Overall, nicely painted models - maybe a little more wash on the metal helmet/hammer to remove the shininess, but that is picking nits.

>>44489159

The guy who called your spider an eyesore wasn't me, and I'm not trolling. You aren't seriously saying you think those Chaos Warriors are well painted?

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>>44489208
>I reccomend using a very fine tipped marker for stuff like that.

First thing I thought of, too, although given my knowledge of Dwarves, I'd imagine he *did* use something this sized.

First Sentinel.
Soooo assembly and paint or paint then assembly? Any general advice?
I know that it's a usual mistake gluing in the pilot before painting him.

>>44488991
Looks pretty good in my opinion, there is nice shading in the recesses and I like your choice of colour.
However, I would recommend adding a tiny bit more on the highlight side, just a small amount of extreme highlights to make the colours pop just that little bit more. Right now, the colours appear a little flat, apart from the nicely done shading. Bringing it up just a little bit more should make it look really nice.
Overall good job Anon.

>>44489000
That depends on your timezone, midnight was ~30 minutes ago here.

>>44489209
No, Im talking about the guy who said the paint on your dwarves was thick. Its not.

>>44489344

Yeah, I'm not the dwarf guy, I'm the guy who was arguing with the Chaos Warriors bloke. I am also neither the one who shat on the spider or the guy who said the paint on the dwarfs was too thick. I wish /tg/ had IDs sometimes, even just thread specific ones.

>>44485322
try using the skating legs in a convincing pose of movement.

but i know what you mean... i use standard csm legs when i can. moreso the skull crotch... cos you know... skulls and stuff...

it is about time games workshop gave us a revamp of the bezerkers already. i dont like the forgeworld upgrades. and ive run out of fantasy khorne heads to use...

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>>44488986
Happy new year, anon.

>>44487046
nice WARHHHH!!! band you have there...

>>44489242
>>44489208
I was thinking to use something like that, but I actually used a 2 year old Fine Detail brush that is starting to loose it's tip and is in desperate need of a replacement. I have always ordered my brushes from GW whenever I get more paint or models or something, but even I think they are taking the piss with their "artificer brush" as they call it now.

I have heard that the fine tipped markers make doing eyes significantly easier as well, which is something I haven't attempted to do on the crew for this model (mostly because their eyes are half hidden under the damn helmet), so I have been considering getting one.
Is there a certain "must get" brand, or is there a lot to choose from?

>>44489376
I have no idea what the fuck is going on, but lets forget it.

>>44489452
I would recommend checking in /toy/ in the Gunpla thread, as the use of markers is really common for those building and painting Gundam models. They'll probably have great recommendations.

>>44489452
You can either use the Sakura from the post you're replying to or look for gundam markers. There're some great ones for fine detailwork out there.

>>44489441
Y-you too, Anon.

Happy new year Anons, may we all have time to practice our hobby!

Did a britbro receive their secret Santa like today or yesterday? I posted it two days before Christmas so not sure if you'll have gotten it yet.

>tfw 7pm
Almost there

>>44489760
>tfw 1am
Gotta get to work in 4 hours and the noise is keeping me up. God fucking damn.

>>44487046
Buy metallic spray. Spray all metal bits with it. Buy green. Spray all the orks with it. Put some red on all the other bits. Boom, presentable army in under 2-3 hours.

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>>44488751
>>44488777
>>44488897
>>44488968
eh anon, those models have an amazing sculpts and you can pull an amazing paintjob on them (like on pic related).

You failed miserably and people pointed out what you should improve - that's the whole point of this thread - it's not everyone-thumbs-up-everyone community. Don't get mad and just get over it. If you like it, just keep painting them like this - just be ready to hear same thing everytime you post your low-tier paintjobs.

>that feel when you post but don't get any feedback good or bad

>>44490153
Tell what your post is and I will give you feedback

>>44488874
That guy looks like he went on a bender and woke up thinking OH FUCK WHY AM I SO BLUE

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What colours to give to the bolt and plasma pistols, /wip/?

>>44490282
What are your regimental colors? Whatever they are for the main body, glowy blue plasma, some blackening at the tip of the guns.

And drill yer barrels.

I got some guys with PVA + White Glue + Bicarbonate snow base. How should I go about removing the snow from their base to rebase them?

>>44490435
sodium bicarbonate is extremely water soluble, PVA glue apparently dissolves well in warm vinegar.
So you could try heating a little bit of white vinegar in a cup and see if that gets the stuff off the base?

>>44485322
>>44485556
Look up Evilcraft, their CSM are godlike but expensive.

>>44490493
Im afraid that the washes on the model might come off, but Ill put the with just their bases in. im going to try this, thanks.

>>44485605
>posting your own WIPs in the WIP thread is bad form

>>44485605
Post something of yours and we will use it for the next thread.

>>44487437
>>44487450
>>44487475
Not this guy >>44487463, but, I do think a coat of Earth shade would do wonders to all that blue. Maybe more blood effects?

Just a lowly anons input.

>>44490408
Not so much regiment as gang, m8,he's supposed to be an Orlock ganger, thus the question. The main colours are denim jeans, black leather jackets, brown leather everything else. Headband colour varies from ganger to ganger.

Maybe red would work on both. Keeping the colour scheme together. I'll probably do glowy blue coils, though.

As for barrels, I can assure you they are thoroughly drilled.

>>44489445
Just bought 40 dollars worth of paint, hopefully won't be black, white, grey, and sorta painted for too much longer

>>44484129
That's an awesome freehand. Congrats.

>>44489865
I find it's better to prime orks brown or the preferred colour of their clothing. There's actually not that much green to boyz.

>>44487046
this is why I will never play a horde army

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I'm spending New Year's Eve by myself painting tiny plastic figures.

>>44491391
And doing a damn fine job of it bro.

>>44485605

Generals are bad form.

>>44487046
Looks like a good start.

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>>44490218
i haven't posted in a while but here's something i did recently; tear me apart sempai

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>>44491391
So am I. Good times

Unfortunately I am mediocore painter and worse photographer

>>44492358

Resize your images faggot.

>>44488412
>>44488383
>>44488348
>>44488276
>>44488305
your dirt effect looks fucking awesome. but I am a bit iffy on the paint job. none the less Good job :)

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I'm new to painting Warhammer, I used to do it very averagely when I was 12, (22 now) but I'm looking at giving it a go.

Is there a resource somewhere that lists the basics you need in terms of brush types and modelling materials?

>>44492358
They look good to me, I really like the far right one
>>44492373
I can see them just fine, why are you so mad lol

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I've still got a ways to go. Working on getting skulls threaded on chains to place on the sides. Trying to see if anything other than two vindicator plows would work for the front. Anyone have suggestions? Ork Battlewagon Plows?

Also, I know it was lazy, but I didn't now what to do with the shrine on the back. So, I covered it with a blanket-er, banner.

>>44492978
fucking mint

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Still need to finish the magical effect on the wand, but I'm blanking hard on the robes. I did a wash of blue ink over purple, and I'm not sure how strongly I can shade/drybrush up without the robe being too visually distracting.

>>44492618

Usually links are posted throughout these threads but plenty of stuff on youtube too

>>44487046
Does no one else feel incredibly guilty if they buy things without having painted the previous purchases?

>>44493031
Nice, I love the lightning bugs. Definetly one of my favourite Malifaux models. Do you have the whole gang?

>>44492978
Dead Sexy

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So these are pretty much done for grunts, gave em a matt varnish spray and will move on to something else for a bit, Still got a lot of terror squad Night lords to finish off.

>>44493031
I love his little glasses. Though, I'd almost say to give them a yellow tint similar to the thing in his hand

>>44492978

That is the most pristine, orderly chaos thing I have ever seen. Like it doesn't really fit the chaos aesthetic but I really like it for the novelty of it. Also great job on the paining, did you edge highlight it all by hand of drybrush it?

>>44493215
I haven't dirtied it up much yet, but I see nothing wrong with cultists wanting to keep their shit at least a little tidy. After all, your shit is stuff and everyone else's stuff is shit. And I like my stuff a bit less shitty.
I drybrushed the shit out of it, but in four sections before assembly. I wanted to keep it in similar tone to my other vehicles and with all the edges it seemed like the most efficient method.

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How do I get clean edge highlights? Glaze them on?

>>44493293

No, you neaten them up. The fuck you think glazing is going to do to sloppy highlights.

There is no trick or shortcut to highlighting except for drybrushing which looks like ass.

>>44484129
why would anyone even bother to paint the smegmar models theyre so fucking ugly

>>44493293
the side of your brush is a good technique. Keep your hand and model steady. Work quickly to keep the paint from pooling, but try to be patient and practice at it. Often times the clean edge highlights you see with have had a clean up phase after, using the color they highlighted over to remove and unsightly marks.

>>44493355

They look alright except for the helmet and shoulders. They look like generic muscle knights, you can't claim Chaos Warriors/WHFB looked good and Sigmarines don't. Its the same shit.

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>>44493375
>They look alright except for the helmet and shoulders
>cartoonish world of warcraft tier armor looks anywhere near tasteful
kek
>you can't claim Chaos Warriors/WHFB looked good and Sigmarines don't
chaos warriors dont have muscle shit

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>>44493083
>Does no one else feel incredibly guilty if they buy things without having painted the previous purchases?

I have long since lost those feels, anon...

>>44493465
>today is the today i'm gonna be the best warrior and get promoted to chosen
>time to make mom proud

i can't take chaos warriors serious

>>44493507
at least they arent an eyesore
sigmarines are genuinely one of the ugliest things ever put out
dont even want to play AOS

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>>44489531
>Happy new year Anons, may we all have time to practice our hobby!

Happy New Year, /WIP/! May all who are looking for Johnny ... find him!

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>>44493293
you load your brush like this and use the side of the tip

>>44493465

WoW is the most popular video game in history, alongside LoL which has identical aesthetics.

>>44493569
i guess sigmar has a thing for husky warriors in golden armor

>>44493667
>WoW is the most popular video game in history, alongside LoL which has identical aesthetics.
and?
twilight and 50 shades of grey are the most popular pieces of womens literature in history both of which have identical levels of writing

wow and lol aesthetics are shit

>>44493752
>and?
>wow and lol aesthetics are shit

People want shit. Shit sells. That was the point, what do you mean "and?".

>>44494044
i thought you were trying to make an argument from authority

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Did I do okay /tg/?
I know the white is kinda bad, I've always been bad at getting an even coat with it. Any basing suggestions?

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>>44494471

>>44494471
I think it looks great, I'd say a bog/swamp but I got a fetish for that

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>>44493090

Yeah, although the other two still need to be assembled.

>>44493164

I tried using a yellow glaze, but yellow over blue equals green, and, well...

>>44489989
That shit looks too clean, no character all made for people with OCD or autists. Have fun painting like a robot.

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>>44494044
>People want shit. Shit sells.

Madden, anyone?

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>>44494471
>Any basing suggestions?

Very fine sand, painted and drybrushed, then add some tufts of static grass.

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>>44494881
Wew lad, sick opinions you have there

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>>44493083
My to do list at the moment

>3 3,000pt plus Flames of War armies (one of which is soviets, so it's more like 5,000pts for any other army
>an entire table's worth of 15mm urban terrain that needs to be spruced up
>40 Starship trooper mobile infantry and a ton of bugs I picked up cheap one time
>A Battletech Starter set
>a small 1,000pt UCM Dropzone commander army
>A small 50/50 split space marine army of Lamenters/Black Templar with 5 metal dreads (4 of which have space wolf and dark angels fronts that I need to find replacements for)
>Probably 100 guardsmen, multiple commissars, priests, and officers as well as a Leman Russ
>Randomly found a small army of biker orks that I forgot I even had
>random parts of a dark vengeance set
>An army of 40 Eisenkarn Stormtroopers, 20 Valkir, and 10 black widows that I have no idea what the fuck I'm gonna do with but goddamn the models are 100% sex.
>Gonna be buying about 60 skitarii, 3 Onagers, some infiltrators, and 3 techpriest dominators soon

Get on my level. All of these are in various stages of completion, the key is to just do a little bit of painting each day. I've already started chipping away at the Flames of War armies and have switched to painting 40k for a bit to break up the monotony.

>MFW I tallied all that up just now

>>44495658
How does this even happen

>>44495725
Having lots of disposable income and no time to do anything, but still kidding yourself into thinking you'll get it done someday.

New year's resolution is to finish all of it.

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What colour grass should I use? What type?

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>>44484373

You're already pretty good at blending so here's a tip: don't blend everything. Edge highlights are just for the edges. Look at pictures of real life objects like bars of gold or semi-reflective objects for references on how to do lighting.

See this fuckhuge picture of a car. Notice how the amount of reflection goes up as the edges sharpens? A really sharp edge has an almost white reflection.

What I'm saying is, it's okay to have stronger contrasts on your models. And eyelids.

>>44493083

Hoarding is my hobby, painting and modelling are just subhobbies that come with the territory.

>>44494812

Needs white in the recesses

>>44495868
You made me laugh anon

>>44495658

I pity your future self if you think that's bad. I don't even know what I have, I just buy it and stash it like a squirrel preparing for winter. I know I have at least 5 DV sets. I don't even play chaos or dark angels. Dem deals though.

>>44495941
I'm 24 though

Imagine what this hell will be like when I'm 40.

>>44495974

Just do what I do, buy a bigger house to stash your models in. I didn't choose the nerd life.

>>44496024
but I spent all my money on terrain anon

>>44496141
>implying you need money to buy a house
You don't need to afford the things you buy. You only need afford the interest on the money you need to buy them.

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Trying to make my BaC contemptor a little more unique.

Alpha Legion, so I figured going overkill with the reptilian heads to get a "many-headed hydra" kind of effect would work. Although honestly I'll understand if you think it looks stupid. I think paint will help with that.

More important was bisecting at the waist to allow for a pivot, and cutting the left leg off at the pelvic joint to swing it back just the slightest bit more. Overall fairly pleased.

Anyone by any chance have instructions on how to build Centurions? I got some for dirt cheap from friend but he forgot to include instructions

>>44492978
wait, you painted it first, then just slapped on the Bronze markings? Aren't those supposed to be painted as well?

>>44496717
>we love you dreadnought
>shut up baby, I know it

That dread has a pimp walk

When are you supposed to use stipling brush? I tired to apply some battle damage with it but it just raped the paint under it.

>>44497922
Yeah, if you're using the stippling brsh from GW, don't. It's fucking garbage. Take an old shitty brush of yours and cut it down.

As for your actual question for applying battle damage and mechanical corrosion are your big players for the technique. Using it to flick a bit of blood or some other fluid effects around on a piece of equipment/armour/weapon or scenery piece is another good use for it.

Hope this helps.

>>44497990
Oh, just remembered another use for stippling. Stubble for faces and shaved heads, mixing a bit of grey or brown or whatever your hair colour of choice is to your flesh tone and stippling it over the area it should be gives you a nice detail effect.

Does anyone have any idea on how to paint tiger stripes or how to sculpt fur?

I was planning on priming and base coating my Space Marines in white, and then paint some blue tiger stripes to try and go for a winter camo thing for my siberian/mongol marines.

>>44488991
>>44489006
>>44489026

It seems pretty solid. But the fact that you have gone through the length of having a bright background paper, but still haven't scored one single focus on the actual dwarf, is quite impressive!
Next time, just make sure that what ever is in front of the camera is the target of you're focus, before you take the picture.

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What have been your hobby defeats, /tg/?

We need to keep experimenting to get better, but have there ever been times when you've had a big project and at some point realised that it was simply beyond your current skills and dedication to complete?

This isn't being too lazy to paint your shit. More like, trying to paint a lot of stuff with a new technique and you discover that you have extreme difficulty replicating the effect. Or you try to heavily convert some expensive kits together and fuck them all up irreparably.

>>44490775

It's not a jealousy thing obviously, anyone can start the WIP thread. It's just bad form starting it with your own stuff.

>>44498328
I thought I knew better than the Duncan how to paint the ghosts surrounding Nagash. I was wrong.

>>44498328
Just do it over and over again until you get it right. Paint something else in between, it's good to juggle a few projects at a time so if you get bored with one you can just work on another.

>>44497844

Venerable Ancient Ben'darr

>>44498131
The worst part is, that IS in focus. My phones camera is not very good when it comes to small things like this.

Well, it looks fine on my phone screen itself, but the image file looses all it's quality when viewed on anything else.

>>44498328
>bought Stormclaw orks
>8 months later I still didn't clip warboss form sprue
I want him to look special so I keep paiting greenskins over and over, and still stop myself form paiting boss because he might look better if I paint more orks.

>>44498741
In my years of wargaming I've found there are two general kinds of people

those who paint their HQ last because they want to make it extra special
and those who paint their HQ first because they want to get it done before they get all burnt out form painting a bunch of grunts

>>44498575
I have a strong urge to make a contemptor dread with a cigar and robo bitches

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So I've finished my first group of ork imitating cultists (pic related), and I've gotten myself the cultist group from dark vengeance, but I have no human-sized heads and hands as I've only ever played orks. What's a good way to get a wide variety of human-y heads and hands and other shit quickly and >cheaply?

Anyone know where I could get some cheap eagles or falcons to use as cyber eagles? I was thinking of making some for my Librarians.

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>>44498328
I think I'm currently experiencing one.

Dog sitting for a friend for New Year's, got a cheeky idea and nicked one of his models and started painting it with the idea of surprising him when he comes back tomorrow.

24 hours to do it. I'm 12 hours in. I don't think it's gonna happen.

>>44498926
Dun goofed, anon.

>>44498328
My friend got me Nagash's "mini".

It's beyond my skill level and I have trouble with marines, let alone the terminators I got. Hell, I'm terrified when I'll buy bikes to go with them (No, I'm not gonna spam them.).

He thought since I'm painting ghosts and skeletons (To be honest, skeletons that are also ghosts) Nagash would be a breeze for me and a nice addition to my Kings of War army.

I'm honest scared of tackling this thing since I fucking suck at painting and what not.

>>44498762
>those ork cultist
you should use it in Blood Axes army. Looks great.

>>44498741
Man clip that damn guy off he's worth like 40 dollars

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I decided it's time to paint my Super Dungeon Explore minis (or at least a few of them before I jump back to my warhamm stuff).

I primed some of kobolds and was looking for an inspiration for colour scheme. I found this site and generated something like pic related:
>green skin/scales
>purple skin pattern/big scales
>brown cloth

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Trying to help a buddy with his cultists. He's new and has 20 now with 25 more on the way.

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Chaos Dwarfs are my 2016 project, now that I've finished my Ogres.

I decided that I wanted to use this model fountain to replicate a picture I'd seen of an Altar to Hashut with blood or lava streaming from a brass bull's nostrils into a pool. Seems like a good unit bit for a diorama with KoW's multibasing. Until this point I'd only used greenstuff to fill gaps and make the occasional detail.

Having greenstuffed the hell out of this fountain to make a bull's head I'm astonished that I've made something that fairly close to being symmetrical and properly proportioned, even if the surfaces are pretty rough.

Original figure: http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/fountain/latest/77136#detail/77136_w_1

>>44499042
Just thin your paints so you can always correct mistakes

>>44499042
You watched Duncan's hour-long tutorial on Nagash I presume? Because it's pretty straightforward if you just follow that and don't think 'I can wetblend those ghosts easy' like I did.

>>44490547
I'd indeed remove the model beforehand, the acid in the vinegar won't be kind to most types of paint I imagine. It shouldn't eat the base though.

>>44499283
I always thin my paints, it's just that I can't pick out details for shit even with those fine brushes. That's why I usually say fuck it and stick to minis that look nice dry brushed and lowered my standards to table top ready for now.

>>44499343
I watched it but the size of the mini still intimidates me.

That and I can't blend for shit.

>>44499375
>the size of the mini still intimidates me.

Doesn't make it any harder to paint, there's just more of the same.

>>44499435
I'm just worried that I'll fuck it up somehow and it'll be wasted.

That and I kinda want to make the color scheme as close as possible so I'm planning on making Nagash my main project and take my time with it.

Then the question is what the hell to use him as in Kings of War.

>>44499468
I use him as 'stands on a bookshelf' in my 40k armies. Just love the mini.

>>44499496
I suppose I could use him as decor, but usually when I get minis, me and my friends try to think of ways to use them.

For them, it's to represent characters and BBEGs.

For me, I want easy to paint stuff for games like KoW and Mordheim.

>>44493500
>>44495658
>>44495868
>>44493083
Next WIP thread should be hoarders edition.

>>44499619
But Anon, every WIP is hoarders edition.

>>44499619

Every edition is always hoarders edition since hoarding is the hobby, everything else is a meager excuse

Do you really NEED to have all those chapter master/captain models for companies you don't even have? Lord executioner, master or relics/rites? Nope, not really but they look cool. I'll paint them some day.

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WIP of my Stonehorn, apart from the FUCKHUGE gape that appeared after drybrushing the third layer ( probably the glue that fucked up ) I'm pretty happy with the result

>>44487450
I like your shaman!

>>44500139
is that a grey, bare plastic showing up?

>>44500214
Yeah, I will glue the arms later, as it will be easier to paint them apart frm the body

>>44500231
I'm just wondering how did you manage to prime without spraying on that part. masking tape?

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>>44500305
I prime with a brush

I also like to sit on pinecones

>>44500308
Glorious. Can't wait to see how he will look like at the end

>>44500305
Bluetac works well for such.

>>44495825
Please respond

I've decided I want to make a Skullhamma but I want to use an alternate base chassis. I was think of Dragons Maus Kit. Does anyone have any suggestions on what WW2 kits I could use?

>>44500457
It depends on the rest of your army, make sure the bases are not taking away from the miniatures

>>44500457
>>44495825

There are a literal shit-ton of Woodland Scenics materials for you to choose from. That base is so huge too, you could get away with gluing down a bush or two if your careful.

Go for something darker rather than greener, because the tree behind it is still painted pretty dead-ish.

I would also suggest looking into how to do different types of snow, if that is still a thing you want to do. The other stuff you were using looked pretty terrible, but I've heard/seen great things about white glue, white paint, and baking soda being mixed together and then dabbed in patches to make some legit snow.

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>>44500457

I agree with this anon>>44500695
Establish your theme via the army, keep everything uniform and worry more about the models on top. That being said, that spider base is fukhueg, so don't be scared to doll it up with a little extra.

>I will get all my models painted before the new semester starts
ha ha no I won't.

>>44485941
what am I looking at?

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>>44498328
It will be two years old this summer. I have no idea what i want to do with it. I have to paint the battleships too.
I want to make a Tau space station too

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>>44493083
>Does no one else feel incredibly guilty if they buy things without having painted the previous purchases?

Yes and no. I buy big orders anyway. But I feel extremely guilty when I open a new bag and build something new before the last one is painted.

>>44487046
get an airbrush

>>44500848
>I have no idea what i want to do with it.
I think I told you this before, but
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greeble
Just cover it in surface detail. A a few thicker and thinner squares and rectangles of card and some wires or rods as piping and such would be more than enough to bring it all together.

>>44500139

Fill the seam.

>>44500796
>>44500695
>>44500700
Thanks m8tys
Gonna try army paint steppe static with highlander tuffs, any idea how to make bushes out of these or do they sell premade bushes?
How much of the base do I cover on the spider?
How about on a small 20mm gobbo base? For the smaller base should I just cover the entire thing?

Where can i buy female torsos to slap on my Slaneeshi tanks? I need big tits and juicy intestines. And preferably head.

>>44500958
The secret weapons corpse kit has female bits as well as male ones.
It seems to be usually considered bad taste to use bodyparts on a model if they indicate that they belonged to a woman, so they are pretty rare.

There was a German metal band that had a ridiculously brutal tabletop game in the works. One of the models was called the Butcher of Bitches. That had quite a lot of female corpses.
Obviously the whole thing was bad taste as well, but might suit your needs. That is, if the game is still in existence.

Adrian Smith made some art for them I think.

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Working on this little guy.

>>44497844
Do you think it's TOO pimpy?

I'd love to hear some other opinions about my dread. >>44496739 >>44496717

>>44501094
It looks really good, especially if it's the Betrayal at Calyth one

>>44501133
It most certainly is. I had to do something about the static pose.

I'm just wondering how lazily tacked on the hydra heads look. That's my fear. I think some paint will ameliorate the problem but Iunno if it's so gross as to be unavoidable.

>>44501017
I think it still can be bought.
http://www.bloodstore.de/en/butcher-of-bitches-miniature

>>44500944

The tufts are cool, but what I'm talking about are tiny bushels of moss. You can find them at hobby stores like Michaels. Fake moss will also work like in pic related. The sponge stuff you have probably seen a million times. Don't try to use the tufts for a bush.

Another idea is to make tall grass stalks, by cutting up the hairs of a really old, useless brush you will never use again, like a real painters brush, those shitty disposable paint can brushes you might have seen to paint walls and fences with. The course bristles are perfect to cut off and glue together at the bottom to make tiny tall grass tufts with. and as an added bonus you can paint them whatever.

As for how much of it you should do, its really all down to personal taste. My rule of thumb is to keep the general idea simple, but the bigger the base is, the more extravagance you are allowed. Err to the side of caution if you don't know when enough is enough. Try a full quarter or 1/5th of the base obscured by ground clutter, grass, bits, etc. Leave lots of dirt showing, as its the general color and all your really doing is gluing shit down.

For a smaller base, if you have the tufts pre glued (as the GW variants are) you can rip them apart or use smaller ones for the gobbo sized 20mm bases, if you feel they deserve a sample of green on the base. Otherwise same idea, don't go overboard and it will look great!

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>>44501230
forgot my picture dur dur dur

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>>44492358

Oh hey, another McMourning player. Fancy that.

>>44501146
Like you said I think it'll look less tacked on when it's painted

>>44501017
>>44501199
Big thanks for your effort guys, but i think i'll just but some female mini and cut it up and greenstuff the gory details on it.

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>>44501094
>Do you think it's TOO pimpy?

C'mon, anon... did you forget where you were?

so, what are your painting projects for 2016?
mine are:

>finish my 30k iron warriors
>complete my mordheim warband
>complete my blood bowl team
>completely strip and repaint my imperial guard army

>>44501684

>various Malifaux crews
>Legion of Everblight army
>Kingdom Death barbarian pinup

Pretty small stuff compared to some of these monster backlogs I've been seeing, though my LoE is going to take some time.

At least my main Malifaux crews are about half way painted up.

>>44501684
finish my daemons, base them

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>>44499018
Yup. I've officially given up on finishing it before he gets back. He'll have to be surprised at the progress, I guess.

On the upside it's slowly starting to turn out. This is my first attempt at this level of blending and while I definitely shouldn't have started with this on a model so enormous AND under a time crunch I'm happy with the results thus far. Still a number of coats to go though.

Question to people: how much attention do you guys give to the underside of your models? In an ideal world I would've removed the base here before painting but I didn't and it is a real bitch and a third to get underneath this thing. Should I just leave it light gray and call it? Just seems like it takes an inordinate amount of time to do anything down there and there's basically no payoff.

>>44500916
You are a pretty cool guy

>>44501684

At least these:

>Finish 35 Moria Goblins (these are almost done, just need highlights basically)
>paint at least 500 points worth of DE that I have
>start learning some new painting techniques like wet blending

That's it so far, I try to keep my goals pretty small. But I have a feeling I'll paint more than 500 points worth of DE pretty easily.

So what's a good choice for "Babby's first airbrush"?

>>44487750

I think the main thing is just the shade of blue. It's not hideous, it just looks off, and the contrast between recesses and highlights is too weak (though I tend to prefer a sharp contrast).

>>44488336
>>44488336

To add to what this guy said, the eyes stick out (in a bad way) because it's just flat, bright yellow, at the least the eyes need a thin black line between ball and socket, ideally you would have an orange Midtown showing at the edges below the yellow highlight.

I'm assuming blue+snow base=ice-spider, which is an idea with a lot of potential, but the blue is a little too "electric" if that makes sense. "ice blue" is a distinctive tone which should be there at least as a highlight, more of a blue-gray than straight blue.

As far as the goblins clashing with the spider, that's a really simple fix, just give them ice-blue warpaint to tie everything together, and maybe a paler skintone, gobbos should be pale anyway, and if they're ice-goblins then more so

>>44501684
>complete both of my skaven and ogre 1765p armies ( so I can field both my screaming bell and stonehorn hunter )
>fix the mess that is my greenskin army

>>44498328
Nah, at this point i can pretty much do anything besides sculpting minis from scratch out of GS. In working on that.

>>44487276
Very kind!

>>44487714
liquid PVA + baking soda mate

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Not really assembled anything in months, so here's something, some dudes that will part of a mk4 command squad and a test mk4 bolter marine, and the chaplain character, all from BaC

>>44487714
C'mon, some anon posted a solid and cheap tutorial for snow just earlier this thread, just put in a little effort instead of complaining all the time... jeez. >>44484202

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>>44502834
Read the thread before posting replies, buddy.

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So guys, I'm about to pick up some of the new Malifaux stuff and decided to start up with Liliths neverborn set which are demons. I know I'm probably going to do them up in a black and build up to a bright purple or blue (or maybe a florescent green) at the tips. Anyway I wanted to inquire more about what I should do with the bases...
Malifaux is supposed to be like a grimdark steampunk Victorian London setting, with elder gods, demons, and undead running around in it, and they aren't so much summoned in as they have always been in the city, I'm trying to avoid cobblestone bases as they have been done to death, and I'm trying to avoid a summoning circle or the ground being cracked open so they could crawl out.

Suggestions?

>>44489242

I want to try my hand at drawing designs onto painted shields with markers/gel pens, are those the kind I need to use? Or is such a thing entirely unfeasible?

>>44503060

Some Neverborn actually have a bit of nature theme to them, with Lilith actually being one of the more naturery masters in the faction barring Zoradia.

Thematically she'd go well with a base theme of civilization being reclaimed by nature. Stuff like roots growing over roads, moss covered skulls, etc would work nicely.

>>44503156
hmmmm alright not a bad Idea, it would go well with the Waldgeists I intend to pick up eventually as well.

Thank you my friend. I am open to more suggestions, but I think this is the winner for now.

>>44503060
>Malifaux is supposed to be like a grimdark steampunk Victorian London setting, with elder gods, demons, and undead running around in it

Well, it's kind of more steampunk wild west, you could do a wood-plank sidewalk pattern with part of the base the muddy road, they also sell a lot of fancy streetlamps that are meant to be glued to bases.

I think the website is called "miniatures market", they have solid discounts on most malifaux sets and they also have those lamps

How do I go about turning this board into a muddy WW1 battlefield?

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>>44503226
Whoops

>>44503238
coat it in some sort of texture paint or plaster, then finish with sand of varying grit, paint brown, gloss varnish, add puddles as necessary into any holes you made for puddles using vallejo still water or similar product

>>44503238
oh, and add craters, emplacements, trenchs, use foam to get the bulk of the shape

>>44501684
>paint 8+ ruined buildings for mordheim
>paint witch hunters
>paint /hwg/ Macedonian Phalangites, hoplites, and expand the army
>get started on republican Roman and Carthaginian armies for punic wars, at least 24 each of Iberians, Gauls, and Libyans

>>44501684

>paint warlord titan head, just the head
>attempt wet blending on said head
>paint sternguard squad
>finish BaC chaplain
>paint blood angels chaplain

>>44503325
bro how did you make the buildings and where do you buy republican roman minis from?

>>44503271
>>44503292
Theres already sand on the board, and I feel that might make it a bit too heavy. What kind of modelling putty would you recommend for making terrain features like craters? It would take way too much green stuff.

>>44503238
Alternatively, how would I go about stripping paint off of something this big?

>>44503376
well if you don't plan on adding an entire layer to the board, GW sells craters which could quickly be made into muddy craters with some drywall plaster to fill the cracks, some sand to add texture, and some still water for puddles. without GW craters, just using drywall plaster would work, it's relatively cheap compared to green stuff, and you can get it anywhere

>>44500308
...are you doing the blacklightning using pencils?

>>44493147
Those are pretty, good job!

As new year resolution I've decided to schedule my paiting, so I finish some of my backlog before I buy anything.
>SDE kobolds #1
>ork deffkoptas
>SDE drakes #1
>ork painboy
>SDE hero #1,2,3
>ork nobz with shields
>SDE kobolds #2
>nurgle blightknights
>SDE drakes #2
>something new I buy
>SDE ogre #1
>ork nobz with big choppas and PKs
>SDE hero #4,5,6
>ork warboss #1
>SDE hero #7,8,9
>something new I buy
>SDE ogre #2
>ork warboss #2
>SDE dragon
>nurgle Maggoth Lord
>SDE chests and spawnpoints
at this point my backlog will be cleared and I'll be able to switch to paint what you bought mode (hopefully).

>>44503226
>>44503238
paint it brown, fill the skull pits with muddy water, paint scorchmarks and the like onto the rock faces.
Then make a modular set of trenches and bunkers minefield and razorwire.

>>44503409
Paintstripper on a big scrubber and some elbow grease. Or a tub big enough to put the tiles in filled with something that won't eat the plastic but dissolve the paint.
Some people just use big plastic bags for stripping.

>>44497827
What if I wanted brass panels on it? I looked at it as a bane blade with brass panels slapped on over any imperial insignias. Also, they were cut weird and had a very dirty look to them on dprue, I liked it and they match turrets and hinges.

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>>44503371
>republican romans

Victrix is the cheap option, Agema miniatures (best way to get them is distributed by Warlord for the better shipping unless you're UK) are the quality sculpt option, both are multipart plastic, Victrix is 60 infantry of all four kinds (Velites, hastati, principes and triarii) for $45, Agema is 40 (hastati, principes, triarii) for $40, and a separate Velites kit (16 for $15 iirc).

If Victrix ever gets it back in Stock, their Aventine deal with two boxes of infantry (120 minis) plus 10 metal cavalry for $120 is a great core around which to build the army, and the cheapest way to get a cavalry contingent (Roman armies rarely had many cavalry, so two units of five is a realistic proportion unless you get a huge army going). Relic miniatures is a great place for very nicely detailed character/command minisbut shipping is pretty steep. The Victrix sets come with officers and standard bearers but Agema sells command figures separately in metal, and warlord doesn't carry them.

>mordheim buildings
I made the buildings based on the old white dwarf method, cut strips of foamcore 2" wide, score corners, fold, and glue to a cardboard "floor" to make a wall section, then stack these sections for multiple stories. Decorated with popsicle sticks for the "half-timbered" look, cereal box squares on a cardboard sheet for roofs.

Pic related was done with bricks of baked sculpy, does not look anywhere near good enough to justify the time it took

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>>44503674

Rear view with kitbash witch hunters for scale

>>44503674
>>44503717
That's a nice fucking house.

>>44503674
>Agema miniatures
noice! as no one will ever play historical games in that period here I'd just like to paint some cool romans for myself


also nice buildings, I only used foamcore so not really that interesting, yours are much better

>>44503462
I just paint around leaving an unpainted line.

>>44503752
I see. Will you leave the back of the shield black?

>>44503768
Yes, trying to paint it would be incredibly difficult, and the result would be very messy and simple (a flat color). Black looks ok so I will leave it that way.

>>44484179
>>44484129
Looks like a fucking sticker pasted to the shield!

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Took a break from working on the space marine suit to work on my Imperial Guard armor. I'm putting a mantel on it so it doesn't hurt so much to wear.

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Happy New Year, /tg/

I celebrated it by making a Slaaneshi cultist for a late Christmas present to a friend of mine.

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>>44503935
yes, its steel

>>44503935
how thick is that steel? by the emperor, it might actually stop a bullet

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>>44503946
God damn, I'm not even gonna try to fix that.

>>44503732

Thanks m9

>>44503740
>also nice buildings, I only used foamcore so not really that interesting, yours are much better

The main thing is patience, I also had a lot of trial and error. My first try at a two story building had floors and base out of much too thin card (warped when glued), popsicle sticks were too sharp and thin for floorboards, ceilings were too low, not enough floorspace, pile of sprue rubble was huge. Players just ended up avoiding it so they wouldn't have to worry about fiddling around with it placing figures.

I made some mistakes on the one I posted, such as trying to make "mortar" for the bricks from pva and sand (the sand fell out the sides, though it should look ok when painted) and gluing the loose bricks to the base before I put down the cardboard "flagstones". I also intended to put the second story right on the brick, but added the extended layer of foamcore wall so people would have an easier time reaching in there.

If you're just using straight foamcore, adding some popsicle stick decorations can be done relatively painlessly, you just need to clip off the rounded edges (i used tin snips for this). On mine, the floorboards are just popsicle sticks with the ends clipped off, and the sharp corners shaved down with an xacto knife to give a more weathered look, the timbers on the walls are clipped popsicle sticks which I then split to make them narrower (quite a pain in the ass, I discovered that the 600-count box came with sticks in two kinds of wood, one that's easy to split and one which just shatters into splinters).

Im working within budget constraints, about $25 of popsicle sticks, cardboard lollipop sticks, white glue, and foamcore has lasted me all my buildings so far and I've only used about half.

if you can afford balsa wood strips those are waaay easier to work with, you can even make floorboards by just "drawing" them on by pressing the pattern into the wood with a ballpoint pen.

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>>44504000
from the front there WAS 3 layers of steel 1.5 1.5 and 1mm
On the back it was two layers of 2mm. I cut out the inner layers because after 12 hours days at conventions it got to be a lot to deal with.

Yes it actually could stop a bullet, look under the Aquila you can see it.

Other armor tests showed that anything under .44 didn't penetrate the armor

>>44494881
Oh, then you can dirty them up afterwards, but the models you painted look like the abandoned the idea of boats and swam up shit creek on their own

WarhammerTV has a good video on dirtying up your models, too lazy to find it now though

>>44503740
>noice! as no one will ever play historical games in that period here I'd just like to paint some cool romans for myself

Also, yeah, if you just want them to build and paint then definitely go Agema. Look into Relic if it's in your budget because their character models are great and they make historical personalities, you could get Scipio Africanus and make a diorama or something.

Im waiting to buy characters until I finish the troops but I can hardly wait to paint up Antiochos III and Hannibal riding an elephant

>>44490282

Go super old school retro and paint yellow and black hazard stripes on the BP and red body with blue details for the plasma pistol

>>44501684
Either finish my Tyranid or VC army.

>>44504074
Werent you the same guy doing the Lasgun?

>>44504478
no I was putting together a space marine, though the Lasrifle IS in the works

what's the best miniature of julius caesar?

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>>44504661
More the guy from the Gladiator film than Julius Cesar really, but I love how much he looks like a douchebag here.
Warlord Games also have some less cartoony sculpts I think. Funny enough one of them is the old Marcus Aurelius from the Gladiator film as well. And they have Maximus as Roman general too.

>>44504765
nah sorry, I am looking for a more historical view of caesar, something in the same way of scipion from relic miniatures

http://www.games-workshop.com/en-NZ/Start-Collecting-Space-Marines

opinions on new GW army boxes?
there's also one for IG, and more comming soon.

>>44505328
oops, i just found more:
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-NZ/Start-Collecting-Tyranids
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-NZ/Start-Collecting-Astra-Militarum
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-NZ/Start-Collecting-Tau-Empire
http://www.games-workshop.com/en-NZ/Start-Collecting-Skitarii

>>44505328
>>44505400
prolly good assuming they have the proper sprues

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>>44505328
>To help you get your army painted and ready for war, we're making seven of our most popular basecoat spray paints permanent range items. Caliban Green, Mephiston Red, Leadbelcher, Macragge Blue, Mournfang Brown, Zandri Dust and Retributor Armour will now be available all-year round, so no matter what you're basecoating they'll always be around. There's also a new colour joining the basecoat spray family – Mechanicus Standard Grey.

shieeet, GW going full crazy right now

>>44505445

Do we know how much boxes like that are going to cost?

>>44505481
everthing seem to be priced at 165 new zeland dollars.

>>44505481
look at
>>44505328
>>44505400
(ozbucks doe)